DISCO\^RY  AND  ADVENTURE 

IN 

AFRICA. 


NEW-YORK; 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,   82  CLIFF-3T. 


Harper's  Stereotype  Edition, 
NARRATIVE 

OF 

DISCOVERY  AND  ADVENTURE 

IN 

AFRICA, 

FROM  THE    EARLIEST  AGES  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME 

WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS   OF  THE 

GEOLOGY,  MINERALOGY,  AND  ZOOLOGY. 


BY    PROFESSOR   JAMESON,    JAMES   WILSON,   ESQ.,   F.R.S.E., 
AND   HUGH    MURRAY,    ESQ.,   F.R.S.E. 


WITH  A  map;  plans   of  the  ROUTES  OF  PARK,  AND  OF  DENHAM  ANB 

clapperton;  and  several  engravinqs. 


NEW-YORK  : 

PUBLISHED    BY    HARPER    &    BROTHERS, 

no.     82     C  L  I  F  F-S  T  R  K  K  T. 

1840. 


.LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
SANTA  BARBARA 

PREFACE. 


The  object  of  this  volume  is  to  exhibit,  withhi  a 
moderate  compass,  whatever  is  most  interesting  in 
the  adventures  and  observations  of  those  travellers 
who,  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  in  various  direc- 
tions, have  sought  to  explore  Africa ;  and  also  to 
give  a  general  view  of  the  physical  and  social  condi- 
tion of  that  extensive  continent  at  the  present  day. 
This  quarter  of  the  globe  has  afforded  more  ample 
scope  than  any  other  to  the  exertions  of  that  class  of 
men  whose  enterprising  spirit  impels  them,  regard- 
less of  toil  and  peril,  to  penetrate  into  unknown  coun- 
tries. Down  to  a  comparatively  recent  period,  the 
greater  part  of  its  immense  surface  was  the  subject 
only  of  vague  report  and  conjecture.  The  progress 
of  those  discoverers,  by  whom  a  very  large  extent  of 
its  interior  regions  has  at  length  been  disclosed, 
having  been  accompanied  with  arduous  labours,  and 
achieved  in  the  face  of  the  most  formidable  obstacles, 
presents  a  continued  succession  of  striking  incidents, 
as  well  as  of  new  and  remarkable  objects :  and  our 
interest  cannot  fail  to  be  heightened  by  the  considera- 
tion, that  Britain,  by  the  intrepid  spirit  of  her  travel- 
lers, her  associations  of  distinguished  individuals, 
and  her  national  patronage,  has  secured  almost  the 
exclusive  glory  of  the  many  important  discoveries 
which  have  been  made  within  the  last  forty  years. 

The  work  now  submitted  to  the  public,  and  the 
recent  one  on  the  Polar  Regions,  embrace  two  of 
the  most  interesting  fields  of  modern  discovery.  The 
adventurers  who  traversed  these  opposite  parts  of 
the  world  frequently  found  their  efforts  checked,  and 
their  career  arrested,  by  the  operation  of  causes  which, 
although  equally  powerful,  were  yet  extremely  dif- 


Vi  PREFACE. 

ferent  in  their  nature.  In  the  Northern  Seas,  they 
suffered  from  that  dreadful  extremity  of  cold  to  which 
high  latitudes  are  exposed ;  in  Africa,  from  the  scorch- 
ing heat  and  pestilential  vapours  peculiar  to  a  tropical 
climate :  there,  they  encountered  the  fury  of  oceans 
and  tempests ;  here,  the  piivations  and  fatigues  which 
oppress  the  traveller  in  parched  and  boundless  de- 
serts. In  the  former  they  had  less  to  endure  from 
that  almost  total  absence  of  human  lite  which  ren- 
ders the  Arctic  zone  so  dreary,  than  they  had  to  ex- 
perience in  the  latter  from  the  fierce,  contemptuous, 
and  persecuting  character  of  the  people  who  occupy 
the  interior  parts  of  the  Libyan  continent.  In  a 
word,  while  exploring  these  remote  regions,  they 
braved  almost  every  species  of  danger,  and  passed 
through  every  variety  of  suffering,  by  which  the 
strength  and  fortitude  of  man  can  be  tried. 

The  Narrative  of  these  successive  Travels  and 
Expeditions  has  been  contributed  by  Mr.  Hugh  Mur- 
ray. The  Geological  Illustrations  have  been  fur- 
nished by  the  justly  celebrated  Professor  Jameson; 
and  for  the  interesting  and  very  ample  account  of  its 
Natural  History  the  reader  is  indebted  to  Mr.  James 
Wilson,  author  of  "Illustrations  of  Zoology,"  and 
the  principal  contributor  in  that  branch  of  science  to 
the  new  edition  of  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica. 

The  present  volume,  having  for  its  main  object  the 
History  of  Discovery  and  Adventure,  does  not  in- 
clude the  countries  on  the  Mediterranean  coast,  which 
from  the  earliest  ages  have  been  well  known  to  the 
nations  of  Europe. — Egypt,  again,  from  its  high  an- 
tiquity, its  stupendous  monuments,  and  the  memora- 
ble revolutions  through  wliich  it  has  passed,  pre* 
sented  matter  at  once  too  interesting  and  ample  to 
be  comprehended  within  such  narrow  limits.  The 
history  of  that  kingdom,  therefore,  has  been  reserved 
for  a  separate  volume,  which  will  contain  also  an 
account  of  Nubia  and  Abyssinia. 

Edinburgh,  Wk  November,  1830. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  NATURAL  FEATURES  OF  AFRICA 

introductory  Observations— Its  Situation  on  the  Globe — Extensive  De. 
serts — Mountains  and  Rivera — Vegetable  Life — Animal  Life — Social 
Aspect— Striking  Contrasts  which  it  presents Page  13 

CHAPTER  XL 

KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA   AMONG   THE    ANCIENTS. 

Northern  Africa  well  known — Obstacles  opposed  by  the  Desert De- 
scription given  by  Herodotus— by  Diodorus— by  Strabo — Ancient  Ac- 
counts of  the  Nile— of  Ethiopia — of  Abyssinia— Expedition  sent  by 

Necho — Journey  of  the  Nasamones — Voyage  of  Sataspes— of  Hanno 

Voyages  of  Eudoxus— Periplus  of  the  Ery  threan  Sea 22 

CHAPTER  m. 

SETTLEMENTS   OF    THE    ARABS. 

Their  Influence  on  this  Continent— Migration  into  Central  Africa— 
Ghana— Tocrur — Kuku — Wangara — Ulil — Eastern  Africa — Travels  of 
Ibn  Batuta— Description  by  Leo  Africanus 40 

CHAPTER  IV. 

PORTUGUESE   DISCOVERIES. 

Rise  of  the  Spirit  of  Discovery— \'oyages  along  the  Western  Coast— The 
Senegal— Prince  Benioy— Discovery  of  the  Congo— Numerous  Mis- 
sionaries sent  out — Superstitions  of  the  N atives 47 

CHAPTER  V. 

EARLY    ENGLISH    DISCOVERIES. 

Decline  of  Portuguese  maritime  Power— Company  formed  in  England  to 
explore  the  Gambia — Richard  Thompson — His  Death — Jobson's  Vov  • 
age  up  the  Gambia— xManners  of  the  Native  Africans— Vermuyden— 
Stibbs 57 

CHAPTER  \l. 

FRENCH    DISCOVERIES. 

French  Settlement  on  the  Senegal— .Jannequin's  Voyage— Voyages  of 
Brue  up  the  Senegal — Bambouk  ;  Gold  Mines— Saugnier — Gum- 
trade  %•* 


tm  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

EARLY   PROCEEDINGS    OF   THE    AFRICAN   ASSOCIATOV. 

liedyard— Lucas— Information  respecting  the  Interior— Houghton— His 
Death 77 

CHAPTER  Vni. 

park's  first  journey. 
Park  undertakes  to  explore  Africa— Departure— 111  Treatment  at  Bon- 
dou  and  Joag—Kooniakary— Captivity  among  the  Moors— Escape 
—The  Niger— Sego—Sansanding—Silla— Obliged  to  return— Various 
Misfortunes— Distressed  State— Finds  Relief  at  Kamalia— Arrival  in 
England 83 

CHAPTER  IX. 

park's  second  journey. 

Views  under  which  he  was  sent  out— Departure— Overtaken  by  the 

Rainy  Season — Great  Sickness  and  Distress— Embarks  on  the  Niger — 

NesotiaUons  with  the  King  of  Bambarra— Obtains  Permission  to  build 

a  Vessel— Sansanding— Sets  sail— Accounts  of  his  Death 100 

CHAPTER  X. 

VARIOUS    travellers. 

Horaeman—NichoUs— Roentgen— Adams— Riley 108 

CHAPTER  XI. 

GOVERNMENT    EXPEDITIONS. 

Great  Expedition  planned  tmder  Tuckey  and  Peildie— Captain  Tuckey 
reaches  the  Congo— Di(R''ulties  encountered— Great  Sickness — Disas 
trous  Issue— Major  Peddie  arrives  at  Kakundy— His  Death— Captain 
Campbell  advances  into  the  Foulah  Territory— Obliged  to  return — His 
Death — Gray— Laing— Ritchie  and  Lyon — Death  of  Ritchie 121 

CHAPTER  Xn. 

DEVHAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 

Arrangements  with  the  Court  of  Tripoli— The  Travellers  arrive  there — 
Journey  to  Mourzouk— Difficulties— Agreement  with  Boo  Khalloom— 
Departure— The  Desert- -Tibboos  and  Tuaricks — Arrive  at  the  Lake 
Tchad— The  Yeou—Kouka— Visit  to  the  Sheik— The  Sultan— Descrip- 
tion of  Bornou— Dcnham's  Excursion  to  Mandara — Great  Range  of 
Mountains— Disastrous  Expeditinn— War  against  the  Mungas — Ex- 
cursion to  Loggun — Expedition  against  the  La  Salas — Biddooinahs — 
Clapperton's  .lourney  into  Iloussa— Appearance  of  that  Country — 
Kano—Sackatoo— Sultan  Bello— Return  of  the  Travellers 12(i 

CHAPTER  Xm. 

clapperton's    SECitND   JOURNEY,    &C. 

Objects  01*  this  Journey— Departure  from  Badagry— Death  of  Pearce  and 


CONTENTS.  IX 

of  Morrison— Kingdom  of  Yarriba— Eyeo— Kiama— Wawa— Bonssa— 
Particulars  respecting  Park— Nyffee—Koolfu—Zaria—Kano— Siege  of 
Cooriia— Violent  Conduct  of  Sultan  Bello— Sickness  and  Death  of 
Clapperton  at  Sackatoo — His  Servant  Lander  returns,  partly  by  a 
new  Route — Laing's  Expedition— He  reaches  Timbuctoo— Assassi- 
nated—(..'aillife  undertakes  a  Journey — Reaches  Jenne — Timbuctoo— 
Aroau— The  Desert— Arrival  ai  Tangier 170 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

WESTERN    AFRICA. 

General  View  of  this  Coast— Dahomey ;  Norris  and  M'Leod— Foota 
Jallo ;  Watt  and  Winterbotioni- Ashantee ;  Embassies  of  Bowdich 
and  Dupuis ;  War- Adams'  Account  of  Benin  and  Waree 197 

CHAPTER  XV. 

SOUTHERN    AND    KASTKRN  AFRICA. 

The  Cape— Settlement  of  the  Dutch— Kolben— Hope,  Sparrman,  Le  Vail- 
lant— Barrow  ;  Caffres ;  Bosjesmans — Trutter  and  Sommerville — Dr, 
Cowan  and  his  Party — TheirAssassination—Lichtenstein— Campbell's 
(the  Missionary)  First  and  Second  Journeys — Burchell — Thompson — 
Invasion  of  the  Mantatees— Zoolas 207 


CHAPTER  X\l. 

SOCIAL   CONDITION    OF    AFRICA. 

Distinction  between  Native  and  Foreign  Tribes— Natives — Agricnlture 
— Manufactures  — Trade  —  Domestic  Accommodations  —  Intellectual . 
Character— Superstitions— War  and  Slavery — Some  amiable  Fea- 
tures— Forms  of  Government— Foreign  Races — Mohammedan  Con- 
verts— European  Colonization — Cape  of  Good  Hope — Albany  District 
-  Sierra  Leone 221 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

GEOLOGY    OF    AFRICA. 

Form  and  Situation  of  Africa— Its  great  Natural  Regions  or  Divisions.— 
1.  (ieology  of  the  Atlas  or  Northern  Region— Age  of  the  Atlas  Moun- 
tains.—2.  Geology  of  the  Sahara  Region— Subterranean  Villages  near 
Tripoli ;  in  Spain  and  France— Tertiary  Rocks  of  Benioleed — Soudan 
or  Black  Mountains— Petrified  Wood  in  the  Desert — Horrid  Conse- 
quences of  the  Slave-trade — Human  Skeletons  in  the  Desert — Natron 
and  Salt  Lakes— Desert  of  Bilma— Sultan  of  Fezzan  and  a  Slave — On 
what  Formation  does  the  Sand  of  the  Desert  rest  ?— Description  of  a 
Trona  or  Natron  Lake — Fulgurite  and  native  Meteoric  Iron  in  the 
Desert— Observations  on  the  Sand  of  th<^  Desert— Moving  Pillars  of 
Sand — Sand-wind — How  the  prevailing  Winds  aiTect  the  Sand  of  the 
Desert— What  is  the  Geognosfical  Age  of  the  Sahara?— 3.  Geology 
of  the  Region  to  the  South  of  the  Sahara,  and  to  the  North  of  the 
Great  Table-land— African  Gold.— 4.  Geology  of  the  Gre;it  Table-land 
of  Africa — Geology  of  the  Coast  from  Sierra  Leone  to  Cape  Negro — 
Cape  of  Good  HopeDistrict— Distribution  of  its  Chains  of  Mountains, 
Plains  and  Valleys,  or  Kloofs— Description  of  the  Karroo  Plains — 


X  CONTENTS. 

Geognosy  of  the  Peninsula  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope— The  Lion's 
Rump — Lion's  Head — Table  Mountain— Devil's  Peak— To  what  Class 
of  Rocks  do  those  of  the  Cape  Peninsula  belone .' — At  what  Period 
did  the  Cape  Rocks  rise  above  the  Level  of  the  Sea? — Vegetables  in 
crusted  with  Calcareous  Sand  conf()unded  with  Coral,  and  adduced  as 
a  Proof  of  the  very  recent  Einerg.'nce  from  the  Ocean  of  the  Lands 
supporting;  them— Geology  of  the  Table-land,  properly  so  called — Ac- 
count of  the  Sibilo  of  the  Africans— Geological  Survey  of  the  Karroo 
Ground  recommended— Rivers— South  African  Lakes — South  African 
Springs— Remarks  on  the  Importance  of  a  Knowledge  of  the  Natural 
History  and  Chemical  Composition  of  Springs— Geology  of  Caffrana, 
Kaial,  £jc. — Conclusion 244 

CHAPTER  XVin. 

NATURA.I.   HISTORY   OF   THE    QUADRUPEDS    Of   AFRICA. 

Ifftroductory  Observations  —  Orang-outang — Monkeys  —  Baboons — Le- 
murs— Oalagos — Bats— Shrew-mice— Cape  Mole  —  Tenrec  —  Ratel  — 
Oiter — Jackals  and  Wild  Dogs — Civets — Lion — Panther  and  Leopard 
— Lynxes — Squirrels— Marmots — Sand  Mole — Gerboa — Rats  and  >iice 
— Dormice — Porcupines — Hares  and  Rabbits — Cape  Ant-eater — Manis 
— Elephant — Rhinoceros — Ethiopian  Hog — Hippopotamus  —  Zebra  — 
Quagga — Camel — Dromedary — Red  Deer — Giraffe — Antolope*  of  vari- 
ous kinds — Gnu — Caj)e  Buffalo— Egyptian  Goat  and  Sheep 29t' 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

NATCRAL   HISTORY    OF   THE    BIRDS    OF   AFRICA. 

fntroductory  Observations — Vultures— Serpent-eater — Eagles — Hawk^i 
— Owls— Butcher-birds — Thrushes— Buntings — Colius— Beef-eaters- 
Rollers — Goat-suckers — Swallows — Hoopoes — Promerops  —  Creeper- 
— Bee-eater — Kingfishers— Horiibills— Woodpeckers — Cuckoos  —  Ho 
liey-guide — Parrots- Pogonias-Troiron — Musophaga—  Touraco  —  Pi- 
geons— Guinea  Fowls — Quails— Partridges,  &c. — Ostrich — Bustards 
— Balearic  Cranes— Flamingo — Gigantic  Stork — Umber — Snipe  and 
Woodcock — Sandpiper — Courier — ^Plover— Penguin  — Pelican — Plotus 
— Tern— Gull — Albatross— Cape  PeJrel — Spur-winged  Goose— Moun- 
tain Goose— Egyptian  Goose— Sheldrake— Musk-duck 323 

CHAPTER  XX. 

SATURAL    HIGTORY    OF   THE    REPTII^ES,   FISHES,    SHELLS,  INSECTS,    &C. 
OF  AFKICA. 

Introductory  Observations  —  Crocodiles  —  Uzards  —  Chameleon  —  Ser- 
pents— Frogs — General  Observations  on  Fishes — Mura;na — Gobius — 
•Cot  tus — Scorpaena — Zeus— Remora— Labrus  —  Mackerel  —  Surmullet 
— Flying  Gurnard— Electric  Silure — Salmon — Polypterus— Argentine 
— Flying- fish — Poly neme— African  Herring — Carp — Mormyrus — Ray 
— Ostracion— Tetrodon — Pipe-fish — Fossil  Fish  —  General  Observa- 
tions on  Shells — Various  African  Species  — Remarks  on  the  Distribution 
^f  Insects — Goliathus,  <kc. — Paussus — Mantis — Locusts — Butterfly- 
Tribe  —  Bees — Scorpions — Centipedes— Zoophytes— Coral — Sponge — 
Guinea  Worm . 34)1 


ENGRAVINGS. 


Map  of  Africa To  face  the  Titlepagt, 

Vignette — Caravan  in  the  Desert. 

Group  of  Figures — Cliief,  Jillemen  or  Native  Musicians,  and  Gree- 

gree  Man  or  Magician Page  &% 

Female  Negro  Dancer 77 

Parlt's  Routes 82 

Tuarick  on  his  Camel,  with  Male  and  Female  Tibboo ]  34 

Denham  and  Clapperton's  Koutes J37 

Sultan  of  Bornou - 142 

Fishing  in  the  River  Yeou 145 

Bornou  Horseman,  Kanemboo  Spearman,  and  Munga  Bowman —  157 

Timbuctoo  according  to  Caillie 195 

Ashantee  Warrior  and  Attendant 202 

Queen  of  Lattakoo,  Lattakoo  Warrior,  and  two  Bosjesman  Hotten- 
tots   225 

Negroes  preparing  the  Manioc  Root 230 

Negro  Palaver-house 232 

Group  of  African  Animals— In  front,  in  the  centre,  the  Rhinoceros ; 
— to  the  right,  the  Hippopotamus  and  Orang-outang.  In  the  centre 
background,  the  Giraffe  j— to  the  left,  Antelopes  and  Zebra 290 


DISCOVERY  AND  ADVENTURE 

IN 

AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  View  of  the  Natural  Features  of  Africa. 

Before  following  the  career  of  adventure  and  discovery 
in  Africa,  and  viewing  its  kingdoms  and  regions  under  their 
varied  aspects,  it  may  be  interesting  to  take  a  rapid  survey 
of  this  continent  in  its  original  state,  as  it  came  from  the 
hands  of  nature.  Though  immense,  and  abounding  even 
with  the  most  striking  and  surprising  contrasts,  yet,  on  a 
general  view,  a  certain  uniformity,  approaching  almost  to 
monotony,  appears  to  pervade  it.  From  one  end  to  the 
other,  dreary  wastes  of  almost  boundless  extent  ai;e  epread 
over  its  surface,  alternating  with  bright  intervats'of  the 
most  luxuriant  vegetation.  These  arid  tracts  also  have 
their  borders  embellished  by  shrubs  and  flowers  tinted  with 
the  most  brilliant  hues  ;  while  a  profusion  of  animal  life  in 
all  its  forms  distinguishes  the  more  temperate  latitudes. 

Africa,  considered  in  relation  to  her  place  on  the  map, 
forms  an  extensive  continent,  situated  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  earth,  and  obstructing  the  great  highway  across  the 
ocean.  Her  coasts  form  the  chief  barrier  to  a  direct  mari- 
time intercourse  between  the  distant  extremities  of  the 
globe.  To  perform  the  vast  circuit  of  her  chores,  and  to 
round  her  stormy  capes,  has  tried  the  cournge  and  hardi- 
hood of  the  greatest  navigators.  Could  Africa  cease  to 
exist,  great  facilities  would  be  afforded  to  the  communica- 
tion between  the  other  continents,  and  many  new  chan- 
nels of  commerce  would  be  opened  up.     As  she,  howcvejj 


14  NATURAL   FEATURES    OF   AFRICA. 

has  an  existence  likelj  to  be  coe^'aI  with  theirs,  our  concern 
is  with  her  actual  condition,  presenting  as  it  does  many  pe- 
culiar claims  to  interest  in  the  eyes  of  the  philosopher  and 
politician. 

The  physical  peculiarities  which  distinguish  Africa  seem 
to  depend  chiefly  on  the  circumstance  that  almost  her  wliole 
territory  is  situated  within  the  tropics.  The  other  portions 
of  the  earth's  surface  which  lie  directly  beneath  the  solar 
influence  consist  generally  either  of  sea,  or  of  narrow  and 
insular  lands,  refreshed  by  breezes  from  the  ocean.  But 
the  greatest  breadth  of  Africa  is  under  the  immediate  power 
and  dominion  of  the  sun ;  and  most  of  her  people  see  that 
great  planet,  in  its  annual  progress  from  tropic  to  tropic, 
pass  twice  over  their  heads,  and  thus  experience  a  repeti- 
tion of  its  most  intense  and  perpendicular  rays.  The  high- 
est blessings  of  this  sublunary  world,  when  carried  beyond 
a  certain  limit,  become  its  deadliest  bane.  That  parent 
orb,  which  cheers  aiA  illumines  the  rest  of  the  earth,  glares 
on  Africa  with  oppressive  and  malignant  beam,  blasting  the 
face  of  nature,  and  covering  her  with  barrenness  and  deso- 
lation. Sometimes  it  converts  the  soil  into  a  naked  desert, 
sometimes  overspreads  it  with  a  noxious  excess  of  animal 
and  vegetable  life.  The  soil,  when  not  watered  by  copious 
rains  or  river  inundations,  is  scorched  and  dried  up  till  it 
is  converted  into  a  dreary  waste.  Hence  it  is,  that  in  Af- 
rica plains  of  sand  form  a  feature  so  truly  alarming.  The 
Great  Desert,  with  the  exception  of  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  Nile,  reaches  across  the  entire  continent,  exhibiting  an 
expanse  of  burning  surface,  where  for  many  days  the  tra- 
veller finds  not  a  drop  of  water,  nor  sees  the  least  vestige 
of  animal  or  vegetable  nature.  He  pursues  his  dreary 
route  amid  loose  hills,  continually  shifting,  and  leaving  no 
marks  to  guide  his  course.  Every  breeze  is  filled  with 
dust,  v/hich  enters  the  mouth  and  nostrils,  and  penetrates 
between  the  clothes  and  skin.  Sometimes  it  drives  along 
in  clouds  and  whirlwinds,  beneath  which  it  was  once  thought 
that  caravans  and  even  armies  had  been  buried  ;  but  it  is 
now  ascertained  that  the  numerous  bones  which  whiten 
the  desert  are  merely  those  of  travellers  who  have  sunk 
under  famine,  thirst,  and  fatigue  ;  and  that  the  sand,  which 
continually  blows,  has  accunmlated  above  them.  Travet- 
lers  over  these  tracts  of  shingle  have  been  impressed  with 


NATURAL   FEATURES    OF   AFRICA.  15 

the  idea  of  their  being  the  bed  of  an  ancient  ocean.  This 
is  not  the  place  to  enter  into  a  tpeculation  on  the  formation 
of  the  earth.  That  every  part  of  its  surface  lay  once  be- 
neath tlie  waters  is  sufficiently  apparent;  but  there  is  at 
least  no  historical  proof  that  Africa  emerged  later  than 
other  continents.  The  earliest  records  represent  her  deserts 
to  have  been  as  extensive  as  they  are  in  our  days,  and  to 
have  pressed  equally  close  upon  the  cultivated  belt  along 
the  northern  coast.  In  general,  all  regions  between  the 
tropics,  when  not  copiously  watered,  moulder  into  sand,  al- 
ternating with  a  hard  and  impenetrable  stratum  of  clay.. 
The  central  wastes  of  Asia,  those  of  Arabia  and  of  Sindetic 
Hindostan,  though  inferior  to  those  of  Africa,  are  yet  of  si- 
milar character,  and  of  immense  extent. 

In  order  to  obviate  the  extreme  effects  of  the  tropical  sun, 
which  produces  3.  desolation  so  dreadful,  Nature  has  pro- 
I'ided  suitable  remedies.  Every  country  under  this  latitude 
has  its  rainy  season,  when,  amid  the  blaze  of  lightnin2"s  and 
the  noise  of  thunders  rending  the  sky,  heaven  seems  to  open 
all  her  windows  to  pour  an  unbroken  flood  upon  the  earth. 
The  ground  is  covered  as  with  a  deluge,  and  the  dry  beds 
of  the  rivulets  are  converted  into  torrents  ;  yet  so  intense 
are  the  sun's  rays,  that  the  moisture  thus  lavished  upon  the 
surface  is  quickly  dried  up.  Great  rivers,  which,  swollen 
by  the  rains,  overflow  their  banks  and  lay  the  surrounding 
country  under  water,  or  at  least  atford  the  means  of  artifi- 
cial inundation,  are  the  principal  source  of  that  luxuriant 
fertility,  that  mighty  growth  of  vegetable  forms,  which  sin- 
gularly characterize  the  tropical  climates.  It  is  to  the 
WJi;  .^s  which  descend  from  the  lofty  precipices  and  eternal 
snows  of  the  Himmaleh,  that  the  plains  of  Hindostan  and 
China  owe  their  amazing  fruitfulness.  Africa,  too,  has 
elevated  mountain-chains,  which  give  rise  to  several  rivers 
of  great  magnitude  and  most  fertilizing  influence.  Atlas, 
aioag  its  northern  border,  presents  even  in  so  hot  a  climate 
piafccles  wrapped  in  everlasting  snow.  Still  more  extensive 
is  that  central  range,  which,  amid  its  various  local  names, 
is  most  generally  known  under  the  poetical  appellation  of 
"  The  Mountains  of  the  Moon."  Yet  these  chains,  besides 
being  not  altogether  so  gigantic  as  those  of  the  other  con- 
tinents, labour  under  the  peculiar  disadvantage  of  extend- 
ing across  the  breadth  only  of  Africa.     The  Andes  and  the 


16  NATURAL  FEATURES    OF   AFRICA. 

Himmaleh,  those  stupendous  heights  of  America  and  Asia, 
as  they  traverse  these  continents  in  the  direction  of  their 
length,  cover  a  much  greater  surface,  and  thus  create  ferti- 
lity in  the  more  limited  plains  which  intervene  between  the 
mountains  and  the  ocean.  But  the  largest  of  the  African 
rivers,  directing  their  course  through  a  vast  extent  of  low 
land,  reach  the  sea  only  by  a  very  circuitous  course.  Se- 
veral of  them,  too,  diffusing  their  waters  into  lakes  or 
marshes,  expire  in  the  very  heart  of  the  continent.  The 
result  is,  that  the  enormous  breadth  of  the  Sahara,  or  Great 
Desert,  is  scarcely  irrigated  even  by  a  streamlet.  It  depends 
entirely  on  the  periodical  rains  ;  and  these  sink  into  the 
sandy  and  porous  surface,  till  being  arrested  at  the  depth  of 
eight  or  ten  feet,  they  form  that  "  sea  under  ground"  which 
has  been  traced  over  a  large  portion  of  the  waste. 

Vegetable  life,  in  consequence  of  this  absence  of  mois- 
ture, is  scantily  diffused  over  a  great  extent  of  the  conti- 
nent. In  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  however,  and  in  the 
kingdoms  along  their  border,  the  soil  is  most  profusely  wa- 
tered, and,  under  the  influence  of  a  tropical  sun,  produces, 
perhaps,  beyond  any  other  part  of  the  world,  that  luxuriant 
growth  and  those  gigantic  vegetable  forms,  which  distin- 
guish the  equatorial  regions.  The  baobab,  or  great  cala- 
bash, appears  to  be  the  most  enormous  tree  on  the  face  of 
the  earth.  Adanson  assures  us,  that  the  circumference  in 
some  cases  is  equal  to  thirteen  fathoms,  as  measured  by 
his  arms  clasped  round  the  trunk,  that  is,  varymg  from 
seventy-four  to  seventy-seven  feet.  Branches  extending 
horizontally  from  the  trunk,  each  equal  to  a  large  tree,  make 
the  baobab  a  forest  as  it  were  in  itself.  The  mangrove, 
too,  which  rises  on  the  borders  of  rivers,  or  inundated  spots, 
diffuses  itself  in  a  manner  truly  remarkable.  The  branches, 
dropping  down  upon  the  watery  bank,  strike  root  and  grow  ; 
hence  the  original  plant,  spreading  farther  and  farther, 
forms  over  the  stream  a  species  of  natural  arcade.  Tj^se 
mighty  trees  do  not  stand  alone,  but  have  their  inten^rces 
filled  up  by  numberless  shrubs,  canes,  creeping  and  pa- 
rasitical plants,  which  intersect  and  entwine  with  each 
other  till  they  form  a  thick  and  impenetrable  mass  of  un- 
derwood. To  cut  even  a  narrow  path  through  these  dense 
forests  is  a  laborious  process  ;  and  as  shoots  are  continually 
protruding  inwards  on  each  side,  the  track,  without  constant 


NATURAL   FEATURES    OF    AFRICA.  17 

travelling,  and  the  diligent  use  of  the  axe,  soon  becomes 
impassable. 

As  we  approach  the  confines  of  the  Desert  these  giants 
of  the  wood  disappear,  and  vegetation  presents  a  different 
and  more  pleasing  aspect.  It  exhibits  now  the  light  and 
gay  form  of  the  acacia,  whole  forests  of  which  rise  amid 
the  sand,  distilling  those  rich  gums  that  afford  an  important 
material  of  African  commerce.  The  lotus,  a  celebrated  and 
classical  shrub,  the  tamarisk,  and  other  small  and  elegant 
trees,  afford  agreeable  and  nutritive  berries,  which  constitute 
the  food  of  several  nations.  Various  flowering  shrubs  of 
the  most  delicate  tints,  rising  in  wild  and  spontaneous  beau- 
ty, embellish  the  precincts  of  the  waste.  Thus  the  Desert, 
in  its  first  approaches,  and  before  vegetable  life  begins  to  ex- 
pire, does  not  assume  its  sternest  character,  but  wears  even 
a  peculiarly  pleasing  and  smiUng  aspect. 

The  animal  world*  in  Africa  changes  equally  its  nature 
as  it  passes  fi-om  one  to  another  of  these  opposite  regions. 
In  those  plains  which  are  inundated  by  the  great  rivers,  it 
multiplies  at  an  extraordinary  rate,  and  often  assumes  huge 
and  repulsive  forms.  Throughout  all  this  continent  the  wild 
tribes  exist  in  large  and  formidable  numbers,  and  there  is 
scarcely  a  tract  which  they  do  not  either  hold  in  full  posses- 
sion, or  fiercely  dispute  w^ith  man.  Even  the  most  densely- 
peopled  countries  border  on  wide  forests  and  wastes,  whose 
savage  tenants  find  their  prey  occasionally  in  man  himself, 
as  well  as  in  the  domestic  animals  which  surround  him; 
and  when  the  scent  of  human  slaughter  is  wafted  on  the 
breeze,  bands  of  hungry  r»onsters  hasten  from  every  side  to 
the  feast  of  blood.  These  ferocious  creatures  hold,  indeed, 
so  commanding  a  position,  that  the  colonist  scarcely  inakes 
any  attempt  to  extirpate  them,  or  even  to  keep  down  their 
numbers.  He  wages  against  them  only  a  defensive  war, 
and  employs  his  courage  and  skill  chiefly  in  hunting  the  ele- 
ph^^,  the  antelope,  and  other  peaceful  species,  by  whose 
spfl^e  may  be  enriched. 

The  lion,  that  king  of  the  desert,  that  mightiest  among 
the  tribes  which  have  the  wildernc-ss  for  their  abode,  abounds 
in  Africa,  and  causes  all  her  forests  to  re-echo  his  midnight 


*  In  the  present  chapter  wc  allude  only  to  a  few  of  the  more  conspi- 
cuous and  peculiar  characteristics  of  African  zoology.     The  subject  is 
"  of  at  greater  length  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  volume. 
B2 


18  NATURAL   FEATtTRES    OF   AFRICA. 

roar.  Yet  both  his  courage  and  fierceness  have,  it  is  said, 
been  overrated ;  and  the  man  who  can  undauntedly  face 
him,  or  evade  his  first  dreadful  spring,  rarely  falls  his  victim. 
Wider  ravages  are  committed  by  the  hyena,  not  the  strong- 
est, but  the  most  ferocious  and  untameable  of  all  the  beasts 
of  prey.  These  creatures,  by  moving  in  numerous  bands, 
achieve  what  is  beyond  the  single  strength  of  the  greater 
animals ;  they  burst  with  mighty  inroad  into  the  cities,  and 
have  even  carried  by  storm  fortified  enclosures.  The  ele- 
phant roams  in  vast  herds  through  the  densely-wooded 
tracts  of  the  interior,  disputing  with  the  lion  the  rank  of 
king  of  the  lower  creation ;  matchless  in  bulk  and  strength, 
yet  tranquil,  majestic,  peaceful,  led  in  troops  under  the 
guidance  of  the  most  ancient  of  the  number,  having  a  social 
and  almost  moral  existence.  He  attacks  neither  man  nor 
beast.  The  human  being  is  more  frequently  the  aggressor, 
not  only  with  the  view  of  protecting  the  fruits  of  the  earth, 
but  also  in  order  to  obtain  the  bony  substance  composing 
his  tusks,  which,  under  the  name  of  ivor}^,  forms  one  of  the 
most  valued  articles  of  African  trade.  The  prodigious 
strength  of  the  elephant,  his  almost  impenetrable  hide,  his 
rapid  though  unwieldy  movements,  render  him  a  most  peril- 
ous object  of  attack,  even  to  the  boldest  hunters ;  so  that 
pits  and  snares  of  various  kinds  are  the  usual  modes  by 
which  his  capture  is  efl!ected.  Instead  of  the  tiger,  Africa 
has  the  leopard  and  the  panther;  belonging,  however,  only 
to  certain  of  its  districts. 

In  the  large  and  broad  rivers  of  Africa,  and  through  the 
immense  forests  which  overshadow  them,  a  race  of  amphi- 
bious animals  of  monstrous  form  and  size  display  their  un- 
wieldy figures.  The  rhinoceros,  though  not  strictly  amphi- 
bious, slowly  traverses  marshes  and  swampy  grounds,  and 
almost  equals  the  elephant  in  strength  and  defensive  pow- 
ers, but  wants  his  stature,  his  dignity,  and  his  wisdom. 
The  single  or  double  horn  with  which  he  defends  himsjj£is 
an  article  of  commerce  in  the  East,  though  not  valu^JPIn 
Europe.  A  still  huger  shape  is  that  of  the  hippopotamus, 
or  river-horse,  fitted  alike  to  stalk  on  land,  to  march  along 
the  bottom  of  the  waters,  or  to  swim  on  their  surface.  He 
is  slow,  ponderous,  gentle ;  yet  when  annoyed,  either  by  de- 
sign or  accident,  his  wrath  is  terrible ;  he  rushes  up  from 
his  watery  retreat,  and  by  merely  striking  with  his  enoi* 


NATURAL   FEATURES    OF   AFRICA.  19 

mous  tufks,  can  oversei  or  sink  a  loaded  canoe.  But  the 
most  dreaded  of  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  African  rivers  is 
the  crocodile,  the  largest  and  fiercest  of  the  lizard  tribe.  He 
lies  like  a  log  upon  the  waters  watching  for  his  prey,  at- 
tacking men,  and  even  the  strongest  animals,  which,  how- 
ever, engage  with  him  m  obstinate  and  deadly  encounters. 

We  have  not  yet  done  with  all  the  monstrous  and  prodi- 
gious forms  which  Africa  generates.  She  swarms  with  the 
serpent  brood,  which  spread  terror,  some  by  their  deadly 
poison,  others  by  their  mere  bulk  and  strength.  In  this  last 
respect  the  African  serpents  have  struck  the  world  with 
amazement ;  ancient  history  records  that  whole  provinces 
■were  overrun  by  them,  and  that  one,  after  disputing  the 
passage  of  a  river  with  a  Roman  army,  was  destroyed  only 
by  the  use  of  a  battering  engine. 

Emerging  trom  these  dank  regions,  where  the  earth,  un- 
der the  united  influence  of  heat  and  moisture,  teems  with 
such  a  noxious  superabundance  of  life,  we  approach  the 
Desert.  Here  a  change  takes  place  equally  singular  and 
pleasing  as  in  the  vegetable  world.  Only  Ught,  airy,  and 
fantastic  forms  trip  along  the  sandy  border ;  creatures  in- 
nocent, gentle,  and  beautiful, — the  antelope  of  twenty  dif- 
ferent species,  all  swift,  with  bright  eyes,  erect,  and  usually 
elegant  figures,  preying  neither  on  men  nor  animals,  but 
pursued  by  all  on  account  of  the  delicate  food  which  they 
aflTord.  Here,  too,  roams  the  zebra,  with  its  finely-striped 
skin  wrapped  around  it  like  a  robe  of  rich  cloth ;  and  the 
camelopard,  the  tallest  and  most  remarkable  of  animal 
forms,  with  its  long  fore-legs  and  high-stretching  neck  of 
singular  and  fantastic  beauty,  crops  the  leaves  of  the  African 
forest.  Though  a  rare  species,  he  is  seen  occasionally 
straying  over  a  great  proportion  of  that  continent. 

Nature,  sporting  as  it  would  seem  in  the  production  of 
extraordinary  objects,  has  filled  Africa  with  a  wonderful 
inuj|j|ude  of  those  animals  wftich  bear  the  closest  alliance 
toi^^k  human  form  divine."  The  orang-outang  appears  to 
conMiute  the  link  between  man  and  the  lower  orders  of 
living  things.  Standing  erect,  without  a  tail,  with  flat 
face,  and  arms  of  not  greatly  disproportioned  length,  it 
displays  in  every  particular  a  deformed  resemblance  to  the 
lord  of  the  creation.  It  seems  even  to  make  a  nearer  ap- 
proach than  any  other  animal  to  the  exercise  of  reason.    It 


20  NATURAL   FEATURES    OF   AFRICA- 

has  been  taught  to  make  its  own  bed,  to  sit  at  table,  to  eat 
with  a  knife  and  fork,  and  to  pour  out  tea.  M.  Degrandpr^ 
mentions  one  kept  on  board  a  French  vessel,  which  lighted 
and  kept  the  oven  at  a  due  temperature,  put  in  the  bread  at 
a  given  signal,  and  even  assisted  in  drawing  the  ropes. 
There  was  a  strong  suspicion  among  the  sailors  that  it 
would  have  spoken,  but  for  the  fear  of  being  put  to 
harder  work.  The  baboons,  again,  are  a  Lirge,  shapeless, 
brutal  species,  ugly  and  disgusting  in  their  appearance,  yet 
not  without  some  kind  of  union  and  pohty.  The  monkey 
tribe,  now  familiar  in  Europe,  and  attracting  attention  by 
their  playful  movements,  fill  with  sportive  cries  all  the  fo- 
rests of  tropical  Africa. 

The  insect  race,  which  in  our  climate  is  generally  harm- 
less, presents  here  many  singular  and  even  formidable  cha- 
racteristics. The  flying  tribes,  in  particular,  through  the 
action  of  the  sun  on  the  swampy  forests,  rise  up  in  terrible 
and  destructive  numbers.  They  fill  the  ait  and  darken  the 
sky;  they  annihilate  the  labour  of  nations ;  they  drive  even 
armies  before  them.  The  locust,  when  its  bands  issue  in 
close  and  dark  array  from  the  depths  of  the  Desert,  commits 
ravaores  surpassing  those  of  the  most  ferocious  wild  beasts, 
or  even  the  more  desolating  career  of  human  warfare.  In 
vain  do  the  despairing  inhabitants  seek  with  fire  and  other 
means  to  arrest  their  progress;  the  dense  and  irresistible 
mass  continues  to  move  onward,  and  soon  baffles  every  at- 
tempt to  check  its  course.  Whole  provinces,  which  at 
at  their  entrance  are  covered  with  rich  harvests  and  brilliant 
verdure,  are  left  without  a  leaf  or  a  blade.  Even  when 
destroyed  by  famine  or  tempest,  they  cover  immense  tracts, 
exhaling  the  most  noxious  stench.  Yet  they  may  be  used 
as  food,  and  are  even  relished  by  certain  native  tribes. 
The  mosquito  and  its  allies  do  not  spread  such  a  fearful  de- 
solation ;  yet  by  their  poisoned  and  tormenting  stings  they 
render  life  miserable,  and  ritflfrvery  unfrequently  lead 
-extinction.  Even  a  swarm  of  wild  bees,  in  the 
woods  of  Western  Africa,  has  put  a  whole  caravan  to^ 
wounding  severely  some  of  its  members.  But  perhaps  the 
most  extraordinary  of  all  the  insect  races  are  the  termites, 
or  white  ants,  whicii  display  on  a  greater  scale  the  arts 
and  social  organization  for  which  their  species  have  been 
BO  famed  in  Europe.     Thev  cover  the  plains  with  their 


id^Mts 
;o1^^it. 


NATURAL   FEATURES    OF   AFRICA.  21 

conical  huts  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  height ;  they  are 
regularly  distributed  into  labourers  and  soldiers,  with  others 
holding  the  rank  of  king  and  queen.  This  latter  person- 
age, when  she  is  about  to  add  to  the  numbers  of  the  tribe, 
presents  a  most  extraordinary  spectacle,  being  then  s\eelled 
to  many  times  the  amount  of  her  natural  dimensions ;  and 
when  the  critical  period  arrives,  instead  of  a  progeny  of  two 
or  three,  she  produces  as  many  thousands.  These  ants 
are  far  from  being  of  the  same  harmless  description  as  the 
corresponding  insects  of  this  quarter  of  the  world.  On 
finding  their  way  into  a  house,  they  devour  every  thing, 
clothes,  furniture,  food,  not  even  it  is  said  sparing  the  in- 
mates, who  are  compelled  to  make  a  speedy  retreat. 

Such  are  the  evils  to  which  the  people  of  this  continent 
are  perpetually  exposed  from  the  lower  creation ;  and  yet 
they  experience  in  full  force  the  truth  of  the  pathetic  la- 
mentation of  the  poet,  that  "man  is  to  man  the  surest, 
deadhest  foe."  Africa  from  the  earUest  ages  has  been  the 
most  conspicuous  theatre  of  crime  and  of  wrong ;  where 
social  life  has  lost  the  traces  of  primitive  simplicity,  with- 
out rising  to  order,  principle,  or  refinement ;  where  fraud 
and  violence  are  formed  into  national  systems,  and  man 
trembles  at  the  sight  of  his  fellow-man.  For  centuries  this 
continent  has  seen  thousands  of  her  unfortunate  children 
dragged  in  chains  over  its  deserts  and  across  the  ocean,  to 
spend  their  lives  in  foreign  and  distant  bondage.  Supersti- 
tion, tyranny,  anarchy,  and  the  opposing  interests  of  num- 
berless petty  states,  maintain  a  constant  and  destructive 
warfare  in  this  suffering  portion  of  the  earth. 

Nevertheless,  compelled  as  we  have  thus  been  to  describe 
the  ills  of  Africa,  we  should  err  very  widely  did  we  repre- 
sent her  as  pervaded  by  one  deep  monotonous  gloom. 
Throughout  the  picture  there  are  bright  hghts  interspersed, 
which  shine  more  conspicuously  from  the  vast  blanks  and 
deen|diiadows  wdth  which  they  are  surrounded.  In  the 
he£fl|f  the  most  dreary  and  sandy  wastes,  there  emerges 
mar^a  little  oasis,  or  verdant  islet,  which  to  the  wanderer 
of  the  desert  appears  almost  an  earthly  paradise.  These 
spots  have  been  painted  in  colours  that  belong  not  to  the 
imperfect  abodes  of  earth;  as  gardens  of  the  gods,  fairy- 
fieats,  islands  destined  to  be  the  future  mansions  of  the 
blessed.     In  like  manner,  in  tlie  bosom  of  its  wildest  woods 


22  ANCIENT   KNOWLEDGE  OF    AFRICA. 

and  mountnins,  there  lurk,  in  many  an  unsuspected  retreat, 
scenes  of  the  most  soft  and  pastoral  beauty.  Even  amid 
its  moral  darkness  there  shine  forth  virtues  which  would 
do  honour  to  human  society  in  its  most  refined  and  exalted 
state.  A  tender  flow  of  domestic  affection  generally  per- 
vades African  society.  Signal  displays,  too,  have  been 
made  of  the  most'  generous  hospitality;  and  travellers, 
who  were  on  the  point  of  perishing,  have  been  befriended 
and  saved  by  absolute  strangers,  and  oven  by  enemies. 
These  varieties  of  nature  and  of  character,  these  alterna- 
tions of  w  ildness  and  of  beauty,  of  lawless  violence  and  of 
the  most  generous  kindness,  render  the  progress  of  the  tra- 
veller through  this  continent  more  interesting  and  eventful, 
xnore  diversified  by  striking  scenes  and  iiKiidents  than  in 
any  other  quarter  of  the  globe. 


CHAPTER  II. 


On  the  Knoicledge  of  Africa  among  the  Ancients. 

Africa,  so  far  as  it  extends  along  the  Mediterranean, 
was  not  only  well  known  to  the  nations  of  antiquity,  but 
constituted  an  integral  part  of  their  poUtical  and  social  sys- 
tem. This  coast  forms,  indeed,  only  a  comparatively  small 
portion  of  that  great  conthient ;  but  while  the  sphere  of 
civilization  and  the  geographical  knowledge  of  the  Greeks 
were  nearly  comprised  within  the  circuit  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean shores,  Northern  Africa  held  in  their  view  no  incon- 
6ideral)le  importance.  This  region,  which  is  now  covered 
with  thick  darkness,  and  left  so  far  behind  in  all  the  arts 
and  attainments  wliich  exalt  and  adorn  human  natu^^ad 
at  that  early  period  taken  the  lead  in  these  very  partj^Brs 
of  all  other  nations.  It  included  Egypt  and  Canil^e, 
which,  as  the  first  seats  of  government  and  commerce,  were 
tlie  admiration  of  the  ancient  world.  In  the  patriarchal 
ages,  when  Scripture  history  represents  the  Mesopotamian 
Plain,  the  scene  of  the  future  empires  of  Babylon  and  As- 
syria, as  little  more  than  a  wide  and  open  conmion,  Egj'pt 


ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA.  23 

appears  regularly  organized,  and  forming  a  great  and  pow- 
erful kingdom ;  and  wh-ni  Greece  was  under  the  tumultuary 
sway  of  a  multitude  of  petty  chieftains,  Homer  already 
celebrates  the  hundred  gates  of  Thebes,  and  the  mighty 
hosts  which  in  warlike  array  issued  from  them  to  battle. 
Egypt  was  illustrious  also  among  the  ancients  as  producing 
the  first  elements  of  learning  and  abstract  science, — the 
first  approach  to  alphabetical  writing  by  hieroglyphic  em- 
blems,— -the  first  great  works  in  sculpture,  painting,  and 
architecture ;  and  travellers  even  now  find  that  country  co- 
vered with  magnificent  monuments,  erected  at  an  era  when 
the  faintest  dawn  of  science  had  not  yet  illumined  the  re- 
gions of  Europe.  While  Egypt  was  thus  pre-eminent  in 
science  and  art,  Carthage  equally  excelled  in  commerce  and 
in  the  wealth  which  it  produces ;  by  means  of  which  she 
rose  to  such  a  degree  of  power  as  enabled  her  to  hold  long 
suspended  between  herself  and  Rome  the  scales  of  nniver- 
sal  empire.  In  that  grand  struggle  Carthage  sunk  amid  a 
blaze  of  expiring  glory;  while  Eorypt,  after  having  passed 
through  many  ages  of  alternate  splendour  and  slavery',  was 
also  at  length  included  in  the  extended  dominion  of  Rome 
Yet,  though  all  Mediterranean  Africa  thus  merged  into  a 
province  of  the  Roman  world,  it  was  still  an  opulent  and 
enlightened  one ;  boasting  equally  with  others  its  sages,  its 
saints,  its  heads  and  fathers  of  the  church ;  and  exhibiting 
Alexandria  and  Carthage  on  a  footing  with  the  greatest 
cities  of  the  empire. 

While,  however,  the  region  along  the  Nile  and  the  ]\Te- 
diterranean  was  thus  not  only  well  known,  but  formed  a 
regular  part  of  the  ancient  civilized  world,  the  progress  of 
science  did  not  extend  beyond  the  tract  bordering  on  the 
coast  and  the  river.  After  proceeding  a  few  journeys  into 
the  interior,  the  traveller  found  himself  among  wild  and 
wandering  tribes,  who  exhibited  human  nature  under  its 
rude^and  most  repulsive  forms.  On  his  advancing  some 
whaSprther  still,  there  appeared  a  barrier  vast  and  awful 
— -enuless  plains  of  moving  sand,  without  a  shrub,  a  blade 
cf  grass,  or  a  single  object  by  which  human  life  could  be 
cheered  or  supported.  This  appalling  boundary,  which 
stopped  the  victorious  career  of  Cambyses  and  of  Alexan- 
der, arrested  much  more  easily  every  attempt  at  civilization 
and  settlement.     It  secured  to  the  wild  and  roaming  tribe* 


24  ANCIENT   KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA. 

of  the  Desert  the  undisturbed  possession  of  those  insulated 
spots  of  verdure,  which  were  scattered  at  intervals  amid  the 
desolation  of  the  interior  waste. 

Meantime,  although  these  causes  prevented  the  civiliza- 
tion, and  even  the  knowledge  of  the  ancients,  from  ever 
penetrating  deeply  beyond  the  Mediterranean  border,  yet 
between  it  and  the  measureless  Desert  there  intervened  a 
wide  tract  of  alternate  rock,  valley,  and  plain,  presenting  a 
varied,  and  often  a  picturesque  landscape.  This  region, 
intermediate  between  the  known  and  the  unknown,  between 
civiUzed  and  savage  existence,  excited  in  a  somewhat  pecu- 
liar degree  the  curiosity  of  the  ancients ;  to  whom,  how- 
ever, it  always  appeared  dimly  as  through  a  cloud,  and 
tinged  with  a  certain  fabulous  and  poetical  colouring. 

Herodotus,  the  earliest  and  most  interesting  of  Greek 
historians,  when  endeavouring  to  collect  information  respect- 
ing the  whole  of  the  known  world,  was  obliged,  in  the  ab« 
sence  of  written  records,  to  have  recourse  to  travelling ;  and 
his  narrative  is  almost  entirely  the  record  of  what  he  saw 
and  heard  during  his  various  peregrinations.  By  means  of 
a  long  stay  in  Egypt,  and  an  intimate  communication  with 
the  native  priests,  he  learned  much  that  was  accurate,  as 
well  as  somewhat  that  was  incorrect  and  exaggerated,  re- 
specting the  wide  region  which  extends  from  the  Nile  to  the 
Atlantic.  He  justly  describes  it  as  much  inferior  in  ferti- 
lity to  the  cultivated  parts  of  Europe  and  Asia,  and  sulTer- 
ing  severely  from  drought ;  yet  there  were  a  few  spots,  as 
Cinjrps  and  the  high  tracts  of  Cyrene,  which  being  finely 
irrigated,  might  stand  a  comparison  with  the  richest  portions 
of  the  globe.  Generally,  however,  in  quitting  the  northern 
coast,  which  he  terms  the  forehead  of  Africa,  the  country 
became  more  and  more  arid.  Hills  of  salt  arose,  out  of 
which  the  natives  constructed  their  houses,  without  any 
fear  of  their  melting  beneath  a  shower,  in  a  region  where 
rain  was  unknown.  The  land  became  almost  a  desei;^,  and 
was  filled  with  such  multitudes  of  wild  beasts,  as  to  Ill-con- 
sidered their  proper  inheritance,  and  scarcely  disputecj"  with 
them  by  the  human  race.  Farther  to  the  south,  the  soil  no 
longer  afforded  food  even  to  these  wild  tenants ;  there  was 
not  the  trunk  of  a  tree  nor  a  drop  of  water ;  total  silence 
and  desolation  reigned.  Such  is  the  general  picture  which 
Herodotus  draws  of  this  northern  boundary  of  the  great 


ANCIENT   KNOWLEDGE    OF  AFRICA.  25 

African  desert,  which  must  be  acknowledged  to  be  at  once 
accurate  and  just. 

In  the  tract  westward  from  Egypt,  behind  the  great  "Af- 
rican forehead,"  the  first  object  was  the  celebrated  and 
sacred  shrine  of  Ammon,  dedicated  to  the  Theban  Jove, 
and  to  which  the  Greeks  ascribed  a  higher  prophetic  power 
than  even  to  their  own  Delphic  Oracle.  This  temple,  situ- 
ated in  the  midst  of  almost  inaccessible  deserts,  was  distin- 
guished for  a  fountain,  which,  warm  at  midnight,  became 
always  colder  and  colder  till  noon.  Ten  days'  journey  be- 
yond Ammon  lay  ^gila,  occupied  by  the  Nasamones,  a 
numerous  people,  who  in  winter  fed  their  flocks  on  the  sea- 
coast,  and  in  summer  repaired  to  collect  and  store  up  the 
dates  here  growing  on  extensive  forests  of  palm-trees.  To 
this  people  are  ascribed  various  singular  customs,  among 
which  was  their  mode  of  foreseeing  the  future  by  laying 
themselves  to  sleep  on  the  tombs  of  their  ancestors,  watch- 
ing the  dreams  which  arose  in  this  position,  and  treasuring 
them  up  as  oracles.  Bordering  upon  them  had  formerly 
been  the  Psylli,  famous  for  the  charming  of  serpents,  an  art 
not  yet  wholly  lost  in  this  region ;  but  that  tribe,  suffering 
once  under  a  severe  drought,  had  been  so  ill  informed  as  to 
proceed  southward  in  hope  of  finding  water,  where,  being 
involved  in  those  vast  and  burning  deserts,  they  entirely 
perished,  and  their  place  was  taken  by  the  Nasamones. 
Beyond  them,  the  Macae  inhabited  a  beautiful  region  wa- 
tered by  the  river  Cinyps,  on  whose  bank  rose  "  the  hill  of 
the  Graces,"  covered  with  a  profiision  of  the  finest  foliage. 
Such  is  still  the  gay  and  brilliant  aspect  which  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Bengazi  presents.  To  the  south  of  the  Na- 
samones, in  a  region  almost  resigned  to  wild  beasts,  the 
Garamantea  inhabited  an  extensive  valley,  now  called  Fez- 
zan.  They  are  represented  under  characters  of  which  the 
present  natives  retain  no  trace, — as  a  solitary  and  timid 
people,  shuiming  the  intercourse  and  society  of  men,  desti- 
tute of  arms,  and  not  even  attempting  to  defend  themselves 
against  foreign  aggression. 

After  the  Gindanes  and  the  Lotophagi,  who  ate  the  lotus 
and  made  wine  from  its  fruit,  came  the  Machlyes  and  the 
Auses,  dwelling  round  the  lake  of  Tritonis ;  the  scene  of 
the  reported  birth  and  oracle  of  Minerva,  with  which  were 
connected  many  cclebiated  fables  of  ancient  mythology.  It 
C 


26  ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA. 

IS  with  reluctance  that  reference  is  here  made  to  what  tha 
venerable  father  of  history  has  related  respecting  the  con- 
duct of  the  young  ladies  in  this  region ;  and  we  should 
hope  that  scandal  on  this  subject  may  have  been  as  busy 
in  the  coteries  of  Sais  and  of  On,  as  in  some  modem  cir- 
cles. Can  it  be  beUeved,  that  among  the  Gindanes  they 
should  form  threads  of  skin,  and  tie  a  knot  on  it  for  every 
lover  who  had  sought  and  won  their  favour,  measuring  their 
hnportance  by  the  number  of  these  knots ;  or  is  it  probable 
that,  at  the  marriage  of  the  Nasamones,  the  favour  of  the 
bride  should  have  been  shared  by  all  the  guests  equally  with 
the  husband]  Nor  is  there  much  to  admire  in  the  annual 
festival  celebrated  by  the  virgins  of  the  Auses,  when  their 
fair  hands  were  employed  in  throwing  stones  against  each 
other  with  such  fury,  that  several  were  commonly  left  dead 
on  the  spot.  The  fate  of  these  sufferers  was  peculiarly 
hard,  since  it  was  supposed  to  justify  the  most  unfavour- 
able suspicions  respecting  their  previous  life.  After  all, 
this  rough  sport  of  the  Libyan  belles  is  not  much  ruder 
than  one  which  we  shall  find  still  practised  among  the  most 
distinguished  dames  of  Bornou. 

""Proceeding  farther  westward,  Herodotus  finds  a  tribe  of 
the  Auses,  called  Maxyes,  who  cultivated  the  ground  ;  and 
he  is  now  on  the  border  of  the  Carthaginian  territory,  of 
which,  for  reasons  that  Major  Rennel  cannot  fiilly  compre- 
hend, he  forbears  to  treat.  He  follows  the  direction  of  the 
interior,  from  the  Garamantes,  beyond  whom  were  Ethio- 
pians dwelling  in  caves,  and  running  so  swiftly  that  the 
fonner  people  were  obliged  to  hunt  them  in  chariots, — a 
proceeding  very  unsuitable  to  the  meek  character  elsewhere 
ascribed  to  them,  and  which,  we  fear,  may  have  been  prac- 
tised with  the  evil  intent  of  carrying  off  these  poor  victims 
as  slaves.  Our  author  comes  next  to  the  Atlantes,  and  re- 
lates several  things  which  with  better  knowledge  he  would 
probably  have  omitted.  He  pretends,  for  example,  that 
none  of  them  bear  proper  names ;  that  they  neither  eat  ani- 
mal food  nor  dream  dreams ;  and,  what  is  not  quite  so  im- 
probable, that  on  seeing  the  sun  rise,  they  pour  repioaches 
and  execrations  on  him  for  the  manner  in  which  he  bums 
and  destroys  their  land.  Behind  them  rises  the  long  and 
lofly  range  of  Atlas,  whose  head  is  said  to  remain  for  ever 
invisible  ajid  wrapped  in  c'ouds,  and  which  the  natives  believe 


ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE   OF   AFRICA.  27 

to  be  the  pillar  of  heaven, — a  creed  adopted,  or  perhaps 
invented,  by  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  Herodotus  here 
stops,  frankly  owning  that  his  information  did  not  enable 
iiim  to  go  farther.  The  only  other  accounts  which  had 
reached  him  respected  a  nation  beyond  the  Pillars  of  Her- 
cules, with  whom  the  Carthaginians  carried  on  trade  in  a 
very  peculiar  manner.  This  wild  and  timid  race  would 
not  approach  or  hold  parley  with  the  strangers,  who,  on 
drawing  near  to  the  shore,  kindled  a  fire,  uttered  loud  cries, 
and  laid  on  the  sand  a  certain  quantity  of  goods.  The  na- 
tives, hearing  them,  and  seeing  the  smoke,  came  down,  sur- 
veyed the  deposite,  placed  beside  it  a  certain  portion  of  gold, 
the  precious  article  of  their  traffic,  and  withdrew.  The  Car- 
thaginians approached  to  examine  the  tender  thus  made, 
and,  according  to  their  estimate  of  its  value,  either  carried 
away  the  gold  or  left  the  whole  untouched ;  in  which  last 
case,  the  natives  understood  that  more  of  the  precious  metal 
was  expected.  Thus  the  parties  went  backwards  and  for- 
wards till  the  exchange  was  adjusted. 

If  the  accounts  given  by  Herodotus  of  this  western  region 
be  tinctured  with  fable,  the  narrative  of  Diodorus  shows 
still  more  that  the  ancients  had  made  it  one  of  the  gi^nd 
theatres  of  their  mythology.  To  it  they  refer  the  ancient 
and  early  reign  of  Saturn,  under  the  appellation  of  Ouranus, 
or  Heaven ;  the  birth  of  Jupiter,  and  his  nursing  by  Amal- 
thsea ;  the  impious  race  of  the  Titans,  and  their  wars  with 
the  sky ;  Cybele,  with  her  doting  love  for  Atys,  and  frantic 
grief  for  his  fate.  Diodorus  represents  the  Atlantic  people 
as  claiming  these  objects  for  themselves ;  but  it  seems  much 
more  probable  that  the  warm  imagination  of  the  Greeks, 
attracted  by  the  mysterious  grandeur  of  the  re^on,  trans- 
ported thither  the  creations  of  their  own  fancy.  Our  au- 
thor, however,  makes  a  positive  averment  as  to  the  exist- 
ence of  a  race  of  Amazons  there,  still  more  warlike  and 
formidable  than  those  en  the  banks  of  the  Thermodon. 
They  did  not,  Uke  these  last,  positively  exterminate  or  expel 
the  male  sex  from  their  confines ;  but,  reserving  to  them- 
selves all  the  high'cares  of  war  and  government,  employed 
their  lords  in  keeping  the  house,  tending  the  children,  and 
performing  all  the  functions  which  are  elsewhere  exclu- 
sively assigned  to  females.  As  soon  as  the  wife  had  gone 
tiiroujrh  the  necessary  trouble  of  bearing  a  child,  she  handed 


28  ANCIENT   KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA. 

it  to  the  husband  to  be  nursed,  and  immediately  resumed 
her  own  high  and  arduous  occupations.  These  gallant  vi- 
ragoes, it  is  said,  not  only  ravaged  all  this  part  of  Africa, 
but  passed  the  Istlmius  of  Suez,  and  carried  their  victorious 
arms  into  Syria  and  Asia  Minor.  What  foundation  there 
may  be  in  fact  for  this  story  of  the  Western  Amazons,  it  is 
not  easy  to  conjecture ;  but  the  Tuaricks,  a  numerous  na- 
tive race  still  found  in  those  regions,  treat  their  females 
with  greater  respect  and  allow  them  more  liberty  than  is 
usually  granted  among  their  neighbours.  These  were  not 
the  only  fierce  and  warlike  females  who  spread  terror  through 
Africa.  Diodorus  places  here  the  Gorgons,  who  caused 
death  by  the  mere  hideousness  of  their  aspect,  and  the  ser- 
pents hissing  in  the  hair  of  Medusa.  Yet,  amid  all  these 
terrible  fables,  he  gives  a  just  description  of  the  back  settle- 
ments of  jVorthern  Africa;  representing  them  as  thinly  in- 
habited by  wandering  tribes,  as  bounded  by  an  extensive 
unifonn  plain  resembling  the  ocean,  covered  with  piles  of 
sand  of  which  the  termination  was  unknown,  and  which, 
instead  of  any  object  that  could  cheer  the  eye  or  refresh  the 
senses,  swarmed  with  serpents  of  huge  form  and  magni- 
tude, that  inflicted  instant  death  on  the  unwary  traveller. 
These  reptiles  were  even  reported  to  have  once  invaded 
Egypt,  and  driven  before  them  a  crowd  of  its  terrified  inha- 
bitants. 

Strabo,  who  wrote  after  the  Roman  sway  was  fully  esta- 
blistied  over  Africa,  gives  a  much  nwre  sober  report  of  its 
western  regions.  Extending  his  view  beyond  the  Atlas, 
he  describes  the  Mauri,  peopling  a  rich  territory  on  the  At- 
lantic coast  capable  of  yielding  the  most  copious  harvests ; 
but  nothing  could  wean  the  nation  from  the  wandering  life 
in  which  they  delighted,  moving  continually  with  their  tents 
from  place  to  place,  wrapped  in  the  skins  of  wild  beasts,  riding 
without  saddle,  and  often  without  bridle,  on  small,  swift,  ac- 
tive horses.  He  represents  them  as  fighting  with  sword  and 
fipear,  not  with  the  poisoned  arrows  imputed  to  them  by  Ho- 
race, which,  however,  are  really  used  at  present  in  Central 
Africa.  Eastward,  around  Carthage,  he  finds  the  Massae- 
fiyli,  who  followed  once  the  same  wandering  life,  and  were 
called  Nomades  or  Numidians;  but  Masinissa  had  already 
inured  them  to  the  practice  of  agriculture,  and  to  some  of 
the  refinements  of  polished  life.     Carthage  at  its  first  sul> 


ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE    OF    AFRICA.  29 

'jedtion  was  razed  to  the  ground  and  left  long  desolate ;  but 
the  Romans,  at  length  attracted  by  the  view  of  the  fine  re- 
gion which  surrounds  it,  sent  thither  a  colony,  who  soon 
elevated  it  to  its  former  rank  as  the  greatest  city  of  Africa. 

Another  territon,',  of  which  the  ancients  had  considerable 
knowledge,  was  that  which  extended  upwards  along  the 
Nile,  the  immediate  borders  of  which  have  always  been  not 
only  habitable  but  fertile.  Nothing  astonished  them  more 
than  to  see  this  great  river,  which,  after  flowing  through  a 
region  where  there  did  not  fall  a  drop  of  rain,  and  where  it 
■was  not  fed  by  a  single  rivulet,  began  to  swell  at  a  certaia 
season,  rose  always  higher  and  higher,  till  at  length  it  over- 
flowed its  banks,  and  spread  like  a  sea  over  Lower  Egypt. 
Some  of  the  hypotheses  formed  to  account  for  this  inunda/- 
tion  deserve  to  be  noticed.  The  most  prevalent  opinion 
ascribed  it  to  the  Etesian  winds  blowing  from  the  north  pe^ 
riodically,  and  so  violently,  that  the  waters  of  the  Nile, 
thereby  prevented  from  reaching  the  sea,  necessarily  spread 
over  the  land;  butDiodorus  clearly  shows,  besides  the  rear- 
eon  bemg  itself  insufficient,  that  there  was  no  correspond- 
ence in  the  periods ;  observing  also,  that  the  Etesian  winds 
blew  up  many  other  rivers  without  producing  this  effect. 
The  philosophers  of  Memphis,  it  seems,  followed  even  by 
Mela,  the  great  Latin  geographer,  surmised  that  the  un- 
known and  inaccessible  fountains  of  the  Nile  lay  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  globe,  where  during  our  summer  it  was 
winter ;  consequently,  the  greatest  rains  then  fell,  and  the 
swollen  waters,  flowing  across  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
torrid  zone,  acquired  that  soft  and  mellow  taste  which  made 
them  so  agreeable.  But  the  most  singular  hypothesis  is 
that  of  Ephorus,  who  thought  that  Egypt  is  full  of  gaps 
or  chinks  which  in  winter  absorb  the  water,  but  sweat  it  out 
under  the  influence  of  the  summer  heat.  Diodorus  takes 
superfluous  pains  to  show  that  this  theory,  so  absurd  in  it- 
self, had  no  correspondence  with  the  facts  of  the  case.  The 
real  cause,  arising  from  the  rains  which  fall  on  the  high 
mountains  in  the  interior  and  tropical  regions,  was  men- 
tioned and  otrongly  supported  by  Agatharchides,  who  wrote 
a  learned  work  on  the  Red  Sea ;  which,  however,  was  far 
from  attaining  the  favourable  reception  that  it  merited. 

The  name  of  Ethiopia  was  very  generally  applied  by  the 
fuicients  to  the  south  of  Africa,  and  even  of  Arabia,  and 
02 


30  ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE    OF    AFRICA. 

generally  to  all  countries  inhabited  by  black  people.  The 
region,  however,  which  extends  for  several  hundred  miles 
along  the  Nile  above  Egypt,  formed  the  ancient  Ethiopia, 
a  sacred  realm,  in  which  the  priests  placed  the  most  revered 
objects  of  their  mythology.  '  Here  Jove  repaired  to  hold  his 
annual  festival ;  and  here  was  spread  the  table  of  the  sun, 
which,  when  exposed  to  the  rays  of  that  great  luminary, 
was  believed  of  its  own  accord  to  take  fire  and  be  consumed. 
Hence,  according  to  some,  Egypt  derived  all  the  sciences 
and  arts  which  rendered  her  illustrious  in  that  early  age. 
Diodorus  even  asserts  that  the  learned  language  of  Egypt 
was  the  same  spoken  by  the  vulgar  in  Ethiopia ;  but  we 
fihould  much  rather  believe  with  Herodotus,  that  the  latter 
xiountry  derived  from  Egypt  all  w^hich  she  possessed  of  art 
and  civilization.  The  sovereigns  of  Ethiopia  are  said  to 
have  received  a  wild  and  peculiar  homage,  in  being  attended 
to  the  tomb  by  a  number  of  their  wives,  courtiers,  and  ser- 
vants, all  eagerly  canvassing  for  this  honour, — a  practice 
of  savage  life  still  extensively  prevalent  in  pagan  Africa. 
According  to  Diodorus,  this  veneration  was  carried  to  so 
lingular  a  pitch,  that  if  the  king  lost  a  leg  or  an  arm,  each 
of  his  courtiers  presently  severed  from  himself  the  same 
ipember.  The  priests,  however,  whose  influence  in  this 
iealm  of  superstition  was  always  paramount,  appear  at  one 
time  to  have  become  quite  supreme  ;  reducing  the  sovereign 
to  a  state  of  entire  dependence.  Lastly,  it  may  be  inferred, 
both  from  classic  and  sacred  writers,  that  Ethiopia,  in  the 
first  century,  was  governed  by  a  female  monarch,  who  ap- 
pears to  have  borne  the  hereditary  name  of  Candace. 

The  Greeks  settled  in  Egypt,  especially  during  the  wise 
and  able  government  of  the  Ptolemies,  carried  on  a  consi- 
<Jerable  navigation  along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  Red  Sea, 
which,  as  they  held  the  continent  to  be  bounded  by  the 
Nile,  they  accounted  scarcely  African ;  but  upon  this  sub- 
ject we  must  follow  modern  ideas.  Ptolemy  Euergetes 
seems  to  have  conquered  part  of  Abyssinia,  forming  it  into 
a  kingdom,  of  which  Axum  was  the  capital ;  and  fine  re- 
mains of  Grecian  architecture  still  attest  the  fact  of  this 
x^ity  having  been  a  great  and  civilized  metropolis.  Every 
ancient  description,  however,  represents  the  native  inha- 
bitants of  these  shores  as  existing  in  a  state  of  the  most 
lextreme  barbarity  and  wretchedness.     They  are  classed  by 


ANCIENT   KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA.  31 

Diodorus  and  Strabo,  according  to  the  miserable  food  on 
which  they  usually  subsisted ;  some  as  eaters  of  lish, 
of  elephants,  and  of  turtles;  while  others  are  said  to 
have  fed  on  locusts,  on  roots,  and  even  on  the  tender 
branches  of  trees.  Many  sought  shelter  also  in  places 
which  had  no  regular  claim  to  be  considered  as  human  ha- 
bitations. These  were  either  cavities  dug  out  of  the  rock, 
with  an  opening  to  the  north  for  coolness,  or  they  were 
formed  by  twisting  together  the  branches  of  several  large 
shrubs,  and  constructing  thus  a  species  of  shady  arbour; 
while  some  tribes,  still  more  forlorn,  merely  climbed  the 
trees  to  seek  safety  and  shelter  among  the  branches.  These 
representations  were  once  deemed  fabulous,  and  might  still 
have  been  thought  so,  had  not  Bruce  and  other  modern  tra- 
vellers proved  the  existence  of  similar  rudeness  among  the 
Shangalla  and  other  tribes  that  border  on  Abyssinia. 

The  districts  now  surveyed  form  the  whole  of  Africa 
respecting  which  the  Greeks  had  obtained  any  precise  and 
determinate  knowledge.  It  comprised  a  wide  extent  of 
shore,  but  extended  a  very  short  distance  inland ;  being 
bounded  on  each  side  by  two  unknown  coasts,  which 
stretched  so  far  that  it  was  not  possible  to  conjecture  their 
termination.  Two  tempestuous  oceans,  a  desert  the  most 
<lreary  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  infested  by  multitudes 
of  huge  and  ferocious  animals,  were  the  barriers  that 
hemmed  in  so  closely  the  ancient  settlers,  and  could  scarcely 
in  any  instance  be  passed  with  impunity.  Yet  the  prin- 
ciple of  curiosity  cannot  be  extinguished  in  the  human 
breast,  and  is  even  rendered  more  ardent  by  the  greatest 
obstacles.  To  lift  up  a  portion  of  that  veil  within  which 
the  vast  mysteries  of  unknown  Libya  were  shrouded,  ap- 
peared an  achievement  rivalling  the  glories  of  conquest,  and 
promised  to  confer  immortal  renown.  The  most  active  and 
adventurous  spirits  accordingly,  who  sought  to  acquire  ce- 
lebrity by  exploring  the  earth,  looked  to  Africa  as  affording 
the  grandest  theatre  of  fame  and  adventure. 

Two  expeditions  of  discovery,  the  earliest  known,  and 
perhaps  that  ever  existed,  are  related  by  Herodotus.  One 
of  the  most  illustrious  of  the  native  kings  of  Egypt  was 
Necho,  whose  name  ranks  second  only  to  that  of  Sesostris, 
and  who  lived  about  two  hundred  years  before  the  histo- 
rian.    The  habits  and  prejudices  of  the  ancient  Egyptians 


32  ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA. 

were  unfaTourable  to  maritime  enterprises ;  yet  Necho, 
endowed  with  the  spirit  of  a  great  man,  which  raised  him 
superior  to  the  age  in  which  he  lived,  eagerly  sought  the 
solution  of  the  grand  mystery  that  involved  the  form  and 
termination  of  Africa.  He  was  obliged  to  employ,  not  na- 
tive, but  Phoenician  navigators,  of  whose  proceedings  He- 
rodotus received  an  account  from  the  Egyptian  priests. 
Proceeding  down  the  Red  Sea,  they  entered  the  Indian 
Ocean  ;  and  in  a  voyage  of  three  years  made  the  complete 
circuit  of  the  continent,  passing  through  the  Pillars  of  Her- 
cules (Straits  ^of  Gibraltar),  and  up  the  Mediterranean  to 
Egypt.  They  related,  that  in  the  course  of  this  very  long 
voyage  they  had  repeatedly  drawn  their  boats  on  land, 
sowed  grain  in  a  favourable  place  and  season,  waited  till 
the  crop  grew  and  ripened  under  the  influence  of  a  tropical 
heat,  then  reaped  it,  and  continued  their  progress.  They 
added,  that  in  passing  the  most  southern  coast  of  Africa, 
they  were  surprised  by  observing  the  sun  on  their  right 
hand, — a  statement  which  the  historian  himself  rejects  as 
impossible.  Such  is  all  the  account  transmitted  to  us  of  this 
extraordinary  voyage,  which  has  given  rise  to  a  learned 
and  voluminous  controversy.  Rennel  in  his  Geography 
of  Herodotus,  Vincent  in  his  Periplus  of  the  Erythrean 
Sea,  and  Gosselin  in  his  Geography  of  the  Ancients, 
have  exhausted  almost  every  possible  argument  ;  the 
first  in  its  favour,  the  two  latter  to  prove  that  it  never  did 
or  could  take  place.  To  these  last  it  appears  impossible 
that  ancient  mariners,  with  their  slender  resources,  creeping 
in  little  row-galleys  along  the  coast,  steering  without  the 
aid  of  the  compass,  and  unable  to  venture  to  any  distance 
from  land,  could  have  performed  so  immense  a  circuit. 
All  antiquity,  they  observe,  continued  to  grope  in  doubt 
and  darkness  respecting  the  form  of  Africa,  which  was 
only  fully  established  several  thousand  years  afterward  by 
the  expedition  of  Gama.  On  the  other  side.  Major  Rennel 
urges,  that,  immense  as  this  voyage  was,  it  was  entirely 
along  a  coast  of  which  the  navigators  never  required  to 
lose  sight  even  for  a  day  ;  that  their  small  barks  were  well 
equipped,  and  better  fitted  than  ours  for  coasting  naviga- 
tion ;  and  which,  drawing  very  little  water,  could  be  kept 
quite  close  to  the  shore,  and  even  be  drawn  on  land,  when- 
ever an  emergency  made  this  step  indispensable.     The 


ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA.  33 

statement,  that  at  the  extremity  of  Africa  they  saw  the  sun 
on  the  right,  that  is,  to  the  north  of  them, — a  fact  which 
causes  Herodotus  peremptorily  to  reject  their  report, — . 
affords  the  strongest  conhrmation  of  it  to  us,  who  know 
that  to  the  south  of  the  equator  this  must  have  really  taken 
place,  and  that  his  unbelief  arose  entirely  from  ignorance 
of  the  real  figure  of  the  earth. 

The  other  expedition  had  its  origin  in  the  country  of  the 
Nasamones,  whom  we  have  already  mentioned  as  occupy- 
ing the  district  southward  of  Cyrene.  Five  young  men  of 
distinction  formed  themselves  into  an  African  association, 
personally  to  explore  what  was  still  unknown  in  the  vast 
interior  of  this  continent.  They  passed  first  the  region 
inhabited  by  man  ;  then  that  which  was  tenanted  by  wild 
beasts  ;  lastly,  they  reached  the  immeasurable  sandy 
waste.  Having  laid  in  a  good  stock  of  water  and  provi- 
sions, they  travelled  many  days  partly  in  a  western  direc- 
tion, and  attained  at  length  one  of  the  oases  or  verdant 
islands  which  bespangle  the  desert.  Here  they  saw  trees 
laden  with  agreeable  fruit,  and  had  begun  to  pluck,  when 
there  suddenly  appeared  a  band  of  little  black  men,  who 
seized  and  carried  them  off  as  captives.  They  were  led 
along  vast  lakes  and  marshes,  to  a  town  situated  on  a 
iarge  river  flowing  from  west  to  east,  and  inhabited  by  a 
Ration  all  of  the  same  size  and  colour  with  the  strangers, 
and  strongly  addicted  to  the  arts  of  necromancy.  It  is  not 
said  how  or  by  what  route  they  returned ;  but,  since  they 
supplied  this  relation,  they  must  by  some  means  have 
reached  home.  Herodotus  concludes  this  great  river  to  be 
the  Nile  flowing  from  the  westward ;  while  Major  Rennel 
conceives  it  to  be  the  Niger  of  Park,  and  the  city  to  be 
Timbuctoo  ;  but  smce  the  late  discoveries  of  Denham  and 
Clapperton,  it  has  appeared  more  probable  that  the  stream 
was  the  Yeou  or  river  of  Bornou.  The  distance  from 
Cyrene  thither  is  not  so  great ;  and  nowhere  but  in  the 
Tchad  can  we  find  those  mighty  lakes  which  make  so  pro- 
minent a  figure  in  the  narration.  On  the  whole,  it  must 
appear  truly  wonderful  that  these  efforts,  made  at  so  early 
an  era,  should  have  led  to  discoveries,  respecting  both  the 
maritime  outline  and  the  interior  of  the  continent,  which 
Europeans  could  not  regain  for  thousands  of  years,  and 
one  of  which,  at  the  present  day,  is  still  entirely  new  to  us. 


34  ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA. 

The  next  expedition  on  record  was  made  under  less 
pleasing  auspices.  Sataspes,  a  Persian  nobleman,  had 
been  condemned  by  Xerxes  to  crucifixion,  on  account  of 
some  crime  of  which  he  had  been  guilty ;  but  his  mother, 
by  earnest  entreaty,  obtained  a  commutation  of  the  sen- 
tence into  one  which  she  represented  as  still  more  severe, 
—that  of  sailing  round  Africa.  Under  this  hea\y  neces- 
sity, Sataspes  coasted  along  the  Mediterranean,  passed  the 
western  point  of  the  continent,  and  began  a  southward 
course.  But  he  who  undertook  to  explore  this  vast  country 
with  no  interest  in  the  subject,  buoyed  up  by  no  gay  en- 
thusiasm, and  urged  only  by  the  fear  of  death  behind,  was 
ill  prepared  for  achieving  so  mighty  an  enterprise.  Satas- 
pes sailed  southward  for  a  considerable  space  ;  but  when 
he  saw  the  Atlantic  waves  beating  against  the  dreary  shore 
of  the  Sahara,  that  scene  of  frequent  and  terrible  ship 
wreck,  it  probably  appeared  to  him  that  any  ordinary  form 
of  death  was  preferable  to  the  one  which  here  menaced 
him.  He  returned,  and  presented  himself  before  Xerxes, 
giving  a  doleful  description  of  the  hardships  which  he  had 
encountered,  declaring  that  the  ship  at  last  stood  still  of 
itself,  and  could  by  no  exertion  be  made  to  proceed.  That 
proud  monarch,  refusing  to  listen  to  such  an  explanation, 
ordered  the  original  sentence  to  be  immediately  executed. 
Such  appears  to  have  been  the  only  African  voyage  under- 
taken by  the  Persians,  to  whom  the  sea  was  an  object  of 
aversion,  and  even  of  superstitious  dread. 

Carthage,  the  greatest  maritime  and  commercial  state 
of  antiquity,  and  which  considered  Africa  and  the  Atlantic 
coast  as  her  peculiar  domain,  must  have  made  several  ex- 
ploratory voyages  before  she  could  establish  those  extensive 
connexions  upon  which  her  trade  was  founded.  Of  all 
such  attempts,  however,  the  record  of  one  only  remains. 
It  consisted  of  an  expedition  on  a  very  large  scale,  sent  out, 
about  570  years  before  the  Christian  era,  for  the  joint  pur- 
poses of  colonization  and  discovery,  under  an  admiral 
named  Hanno.  He  carried  with  him,  in  sixty  large  vessels, 
emigrants  of  both  sexes  to  the  number  of  thirty  thousand. 
At  the  distance  of  two  days'  sail  beyond  the  Pillars  of  Her- 
cules, the  Carthaginians  founded  the  city  of  Thymioterium, 
and  afterward,  on  the  wooded  promontory  of  Soloeis, 
erected  a  stately  temple  to  Neptune.     They  then  buiU 


ANCIENT  R.VOWLEDQE  OF  AFRICA.  35 

successively  four  other  cities  ;  after  which  they  came  to 
the  great  river  Lixus,  flowing  from  Libya  and  the  high 
boundary  of  the  Atlas.  Its  banks  were  infested  by  num- 
bers of  wild  beasts,  and  inhabited  only  by  savage  Ethio- 
pians, living  in  caves,  and  repelling  every  friendly  overture. 
Proceeding  three  days  along  a  desert  coast,  the  navigators 
reached  an  island,  which  they  named  Cerne,  situated  in  a 
recess  of  the  sea,  where  they  established  their  last  colony. 
Sailing  onward  still  for  a  number  of  days,  they  saw  a  large 
river  full  of  crocodiles  and  hippopotami,  and  containing 
various  islands.  The  inhabitants  were  timid,  and  fled  at 
their  approach ;  but  the  coast  presented  some  remarkable 
phenomena.  During  the  day  deep  silence  reigned  ;  but  as 
soon  as  the  sun  set,  tires  blazed  on  the  shore,  and  the  shouts 
of  men  were  mingled  with  the  varied  sounds  of  cymbals, 
trumpets,  and  other  musical  instruments.  This  scene, 
being  new  to  the  Carthaginians,  struck  them  with  a  sort 
of  terror ;  but  in  fact  it  must  have  arisen  from  the  custom 
prevalent  over  native  Africa,  where  the  inhabitants  rest 
during  the  oppressive  heat  of  the  day,  and  spend  great  part 
of  the  night  in  dancing  and  festivity.  On  another  shore 
the  navigators  were  astonished  to  see  the  land  all  on  fire, 
and  torrents  of  flame  rushing  into  the  sea, — an  appearance 
doubtless  owing  to  one  of  those  conflagrations  frequently 
occasioned  in  such  countries  by  the  practice  of  setting  fire 
to  the  grass  at  the  end  of  autumn.  Next  appeared  an 
island  in  a  bay,  where  they  found  a  most  singular  race, 
bearing  the  human  form,  indeed,  but  covered  with  shaggy 
hair,  resembling  those  satyrs  and  sylvan  deities  with  which 
pagan  mythology  peopled  the  woods.  These  monsters, 
whom  they  call  Gorillse,  and  who  seem  evidently  to  have 
been  orang-outangs,  ran  off  on  their  approach,  climbed 
rocks,  and  threw  dovm  stones  on  their  pursuers  ;  yet  three 
females  were  caught,  and  their  skins  carried  to  Carthage. 
At  length,  the  coast  becoming  desolate,  and  no  longer 
aflTording  either  provisions  or  water,  it  was  found  necessary 
to  return. 

How  far  this  voyage  extended,  and  what  proportion  of 
the  African  coast  it  surveyed,  has  been  the  subject  of  long 
and  learned  controversy.  The  only  two  disputants  who 
now  appear  on  the  field  are  Major  Rennel  and  M.  Gosse- 
Un  ;  the  former  of  whom  believes  that  Hanno  passed  Sierra 


36  ANCIENT    KNOWLEDGE    OF   AFRICA. 

Leone,  and  that  the  bay  and  island  of  the  Gorillae  were 
Sherbro'  Island  and  Sound ;  while  the  other  terminates  the 
voyage  on  the  frontier  of  Morocco,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
river  Nun.  The  one  supposes  a  run  of  about  600  miles, 
the  other  one  of  nearly  3000 ;  and  yet  each  theory  is  sup- 
ported by  profound  and  able  arguments.  In  such  a  case 
who  shall  decide  1  I  really  have  made  some  attempts  to  do 
so,  without  being  able  to  come  to  so  clear  a  decision  as 
would  justify  me  in  interposing  between  two  such  mighty 
champions.  But  he  who  will  undertake  the  study  of  the 
original  works  will  be  gratified  by  finding  all  the  resources 
of  learning,  ingenuity,  and  acuteness  exhausted  by  these 
two  great  writers  on  this  curious  subject. 

The  individual  who  in  that  early  age  made  the  most  re- 
solute and  persevering  efiforts  to  explore  Africa  was  Eu- 
doxus,  a  native  of  the  city  of  Cyzicus,  who  lived  about  130 
years  before  Christ.  Alexandria  was  then  the  centre  of 
naval  enterprise,  and  her  Greek  princes  the  most  zealous 
patrons  of  all  useful  undertakings.  Eudoxus,  happening  to 
\'isit  that  city,  was  introduced  to  Ptolemy  Euergetes,  whom 
he  ably  assisted  in  prosecuting  those  schemes  of  discovery 
on  which  this  monarch's  mind  appears  to  have  been  deeply 
intent.  Where  so  much  was  unknown  on  every  side,  it 
was  a  subject  of  grave  deliberation  in  what  direction  he 
should  first  proceed ;  and  an  expedition  to  trace  the  upper 
course  and  fountain  of  the  Nile  was  at  one  time  contem- 
plated. But  the  spirit  of  adventure  was  soon  turned  towards 
another  object  by  the  arrival  of  a  native  of  India,  whom 
one  of  the  king's  vessels  had  saved  from  shipwreck,  and 
who  offered  to  act  as  pilot  in  leading  Eudoxus  to  that  opu- 
lent and  celebrated  region.  The  latter  performed  the  voy- 
age to  India  prosperously,  and  returned  laden  with  wealth. 
Though  not  quite  satisfied  with  the  manner  in  which  he 
was  treated  by  the  king,  he  yet  undertook  another  expedi- 
tion to  the  same  quarter.  On  emerging  from  the  Red  Sea, 
he  was  driven  by  a  storm  upon  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa, 
where  he  observed  the  land  taking  such  a  direction  as  in- 
spired the  idea  that  it  might,  by  no  vast  circuit,  lead  round 
to  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar.  To  be  the  circumna\igator  of 
Africa  became  from  that  moment  the  object  to  which  the  life 
of  Eudoxus  was  devoted.  On  his  return  to  Alexandria, 
Euergetes  was  dead,  and  the  succeeding  sovereign  gave  him 


ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA.  37 

still  greater  cause  of  complaint ;  so  that  he  determined  to 
trust  no  more  to  the  precarious  patronage  of  princes,  but  to 
make  a  general  appeal  to  the  commercial  public.  The  mer- 
chants of  Cadiz  were  thought  most  likely  to  embrace  his 
views;  and  on  his  way  thither  he  passed  through  Rhodes, 
Marseilles,  and  other  great  maritime  states,  calling  upon  all 
who  were  animated  with  the  generous  spirit  of  enterprise 
to  accompany  or  to  aid  him  in  his  undertaking.  An  extraor- 
dinary sensation  seems  to  have  been  created  in  these  com- 
mercial cities.  Eudoxus  easily  assembled  round  him  a  con- 
siderable band  of  volunteers,  and  was  enabled  to  equip 
amply,  and  even  splendidly,  two  vessels  furnished  with  me- 
dical men  and  artisans  of  various  descriptions,  and  even  en- 
livened by  a  band  of  youthful  musicians.  In  this  array  he 
passed  the  Straits,  and  turned  his  prow  as  he  imagined  to- 
wards India.  But  his  gay  crew,  inspired  by  himself  pro- 
bably with  too  flattering  hopes,  seem  to  have  anticipated 
only  a  smooth  and  holyday  excursion.  When,  therefore, 
they  saw  themselves  ranging  along  an  unknown  and  dreary 
shore,  against  which  the  waves  of  the  mighty  Atlantic  were 
beating,  they  were  seized  with  panic.  In  vain  did  Eudoxus 
urge  the  necessity  of  standing  out  to  sea,  as  the  only  mode 
of  successfully  navigating  his  large  and  heavily-loaded 
ships;  they  obstinately  insisted  on  his  keeping  close  to 
land.  The  consequence  was,  as  he  had  distinctly  foretold, 
that  the  principal  vessel  was  stranded  upon  one  of  those 
dangerous  sand-banks  which  abound  on  the  coast.  The 
crew  were  so  fortunate,  however,  as  to  convey  ashore  not 
only  the  cargo,  but  the  timbers ;  out  of  which  Eudoxus, 
with  zeal  that  nothing  could  damp,  contrived  to  put  toge- 
ther another  and  smaller  bark,  in  which  he  pursued  the 
voyage.  He  came  then  to  nations  speaking  a  language 
which  his  fancy  flattered  him  was  the  same  that  he  had 
heard  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa.  But  at  this  moment, 
when  he  seemed  on  the  eve  of  accomplishing  his  most  san- 
guine hopes,  the  shattered  state  of  his  armament  obliged 
him  to  return  ;  retaining  still  the  fullest  confidence,  that  if 
the  means  could  be  found  of  equipping  another,  all  his  most 
brilliant  hopes  would  be  realized.  Disgusted,  however, 
with  his  band  of  timid  volunteers,  he  overcame  his  reluc- 
tance to  royal  patronage.  He  sought  the  precarious  aid  of 
Bocchus,  king  of  Mauritania,  who  received  him  well,  and 
D 


88  ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA. 

ordered  an  expedition  to  be  prepared;  but  Eudoxus  was 
privately  warned  that  this  treacherous  prince,  instead  of 
forwarding  hun  on  his  voyage,  intended  that  his  people 
should  land  and  leave  him  to  perish  on  an  uninhabited 
island.  It  does  not  appear  what  motive  the  king  could 
have  for  so  base  a  design ;  however,  the  Greek,  who  had 
better  means  of  judging  than  we  have,  believed  it  and  fled. 
He  made  his  next  attempt  in  Spain,  where  he  found  no  dif- 
ficulty in  equipping  two  other  vessels,  on  board  of  which 
he  placed  seed-corn  and  materials  for  building,  that  in  case 
of  necessity  he  might  land  and  raise  a  crop  on  a  fertile 
little  island  which  he  had  observed  at  an  advanced  point  of 
his  former  voyage.  Here,  very  unluckily,  Posidonius, 
Strabo's  infonnant,  stops  short,  and  refers  to  the  Spaniards 
and  Gaditanians  for  farther  information ;  but  profound  si- 
lence reigns  on  their  part,  and  the  world  probably  must 
remain  for  ever  in  darkness  as  to  the  issue  of  this  last  ex- 
pedition. It  must  not  be  concealed,  that  authors  of  great 
name,  not  excepting  Strabo  himself,  have  branded  Eudoxus 
as  a  decided  impostor ;  a  reproach  which  many  of  the  most 
eminent  discoverers  have  been  destined  to  bear.  This 
geographer  is  a  most  merciless  critic ;  but  though  his  au- 
thorities are  admitted  to  be  good,  his  long  objections,  drawn 
from  the  internal  evidence,  do  not  appear  at  all  conclusive. 
Antiquity  has  put  sundr}^  fables  into  the  narrative  of  Eu- 
doxus, by  which  his  reputation  has  severely  suffered.  Ac- 
cording to  certain  works,  he  pretended  to  have  really  made 
the  circuit  of  Africa;  to  have  visited  some  nations  that 
were  dumb  ;  others  without  tongues  ;  and  one  people  who 
had  no  mouths,  but  received  all  their  food  by  the  nose. 
These  are  the  wild  exaggerations  which,  in  a  credulous  age, 
a  story  undergoes  in  passing  from  one  person  to  another. 
The  descriptions  of  Strabo,  collected  from  the  best  sources, 
with  severe  and  even  malignant  scrutiny,  contain  none  of 
those  suspicious  wonders,  nor  any  event  which  at  all  ex- 
ceeds the  common  course  of  nature. 

A  line  of  navigation  along  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa  is 
described  in  a  work  of  later  date,  written  apparently  after 
the  establishment  of  the  Roman  power  in  Egypt.  It  is 
termed  the  Periplus  of  the  Erythrean  or  Indian  Sea,  by  an 
author  whose  name  was  Arrian  ;  but  it  comprises  not  so 
much  the  result  of  any  individual  adventure  as  a  general 


ANCIENT  KNOWLEDGE  OF  AFRICA.  89 

view  of  the  commercial  voyage  regularly  made  thither 
from  Alexandria.  After  passing  Abyssinia,  the  navigators 
sailed  along  a  coast  (that  of  the  modern  Berbera)  which 
abounded  in  a  remarkable  degree  with  myrrh,  frankincense, 
and  other  odoriferous  plants.  They  then  reached  Cape 
Aromata  (Guardafui),  which  forms  the  termination  of  the 
Red  Sea  and  the  entrance  into  the  Indian  Ocean.  The 
coast  of  Africa,  in  this  latitude,  afforded  ivory  in  abun- 
dance, rhinoceros'  horns,  and  tortoise-shell,  the  latter  of 
which  was  extremely  fine ;  and  in  return  for  these,  arms, 
wine,  and  com  were  the  most  acceptable  commodities. 
The  voyage  terminated  at  a  promontory  and  port  called 
Uhapta,  a  fact  which  of  itself  would  show  the  extent  c  f  an- 
cient navigation  in  this  direction,  could  the  learned  agree 
where  that  town  was  situated;  but  all  the  names  being 
changed,  and  no  observations  of  latitude  having  been  made, 
it  is  impossible  to  fix  with  certainty  any  one  position. 
Rhapta,  according  to  Gosselin,  was  Magadoxo ;  according 
to  Vossius  and  Vincent  it  was  at  or  near  Quiloa,  a  position 
more  than  double  the  distance  of  the  first  from  Cape  Guar- 
dafui. On  this  point  Dr.  Vincent  seems  clearly  in  the 
right.  The  names  are  all  changed,  but  the  natural  features 
necessarily  remain  the  same.  Now  the  navigator  is  in  one 
place  represented  as  passing  successively  the  seven  mouths 
of  a  large  river  at  short  distances  from  each  other;  and 
these  cannot  possibly  be  found  any  where  but  in  the  series 
of  estuaries  on  which  Patta  and  Melinda  are  built,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  is  that  of  the  Quillimane, —  a  conclusion 
which  necessarily  carries  the  situation  of  Rhapta  southward 
to  Quiloa.  Ptolemy,  who  wrote  probably  a  century  later, 
gives  the  more  remote  position  of  Prasum  as  a  promontory, 
port,  and  city,  to  which  in  his  time  navigators  were  accus- 
tomed to  sail.  We  have  no  fact  to  guide  us  to  the  locality 
of  that  town,  except  that  it  was  two  or  three  hundred  miles 
south-east  from  Rhapta.  Gosselin  makes  it  Brava;  but 
this  is  still  short  of  the  mouths  of  the  seven  rivers  which 
afford  the  test  of  this  chain  of  positions.  Dr.  Vincent, 
again,  would  have  Prasum  to  be  Mozambique ;  but  though 
the  coast  runs  south-east  from  Quiloa  to  Cape  Delegado, 
from  this  last  point  to  Mozambique  the  direction  is  south, 
and  even  a  little  south-west.  At  or  near  Cape  Delegado, 
therefore,  must,  it  appears,  be  fixed  the  boundary  of  ancient 
ftavigation  along  the  eastern  co  st  of  Airica. 


40  SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS. 

CHAPTER  III. 

Settlements  of  the  Arabs. 

The  rise  and  triumph  of  the  followers  of  Mohammed, 
who  in  fifty  years  spread  their  arms  and  their  creed  over 
half  the  eastern  world,  produced  an  immense  change  in  the 
social  .system  of  Asia,  and  a  still  greater  in  that  of  Africa. 
Their  ascendency  at  first  was  by  no  means  inauspicious, 
and  portended  little  of  that  deep  darkness  and  barbarism  in 
which  it  has  since  involved  these  two  continents.  After 
the  first  violences  to  which  fanaticism  had  prompted  the 
more  ardent  converts,  the  Saracen  sway  assumed  a  milder 
aspect,  and  their  princes  cultivated  the  arts,  and  even  the 
sciences,  with  a  zeal  which  had  expired  among  the  effemi- 
nate and  corrupted  descendants  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans. 
Even  the  remote  Mauritania,  which  seemed  doomed  to  bb 
the  inheritance  of  a  barbarous  and  nomadic  race,  was  con- 
verted b}^  them  into  a  civilized  empire  ;  and  its  capital,  Fez, 
became  a  distinguished  school  of  learning.  Their  love  of 
improvement  reached  even  the  most  distant  regions.  They 
introduced  the  camel,  which,  though  a  native  of  the  sandy 
wastes  of  Arabia,  was  equally  adapted  to  the  still  more  im- 
mense and  awful  deserts  that  stretch  so  wide  over  Africa. 
Paths  were  opened  through  wilds  which  had  hitherto  defied 
all  human  efforts  to  penetrate.  An  intercourse  by  means 
of  caravans  was  formed  with  the  interior  countries,  to  ob- 
tain a  supply  of  gold  and  slaves ;  and,  amid  the  sanguinary 
disputes  which  arose  among  the  descendants  of  the  pro- 
phet, many,  whose  ill  fortune  exposed  them  to  the  enmity 
of  successful  rivals,  sought  refuge  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Great  Desert.  By  successive  migrations,  they  not  only 
became  numerous  in  Central  Africa,  but,  from  superior  skill 
in  the  art  of  war,  rose  to  be  the  ruling  power.  They 
founded  several  flourishing  kingdoms  in  that  part  of  the 
continent  which  Europeans  vainly  sought  to  reach,  till  tney 
were  recently  explored  by  our  enterprising  countrymen. 
Of  these  states  Ghana  was  the  most  flourishing,  forming 
the  great  market  for  that  gold  in  search  of  which  merchants 


SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS.  41 

came  from  the  remotest  regions.  Its  sovereign  was  ac- 
knowledged as  supreme  by  all  the  neighbouring  princes  ; 
while  his  court  displayed  a  splendour,  and  was  adorned 
with  objects,  hitherto  unexampled  in  Central  Africa. 
Among  its  ornaments  were  painting,  sculpture,  and  glass 
windows,  which,  being  before  unknown,  excited  the  sur- 
prise and  admiration  of  the  natives.  The  king  is  said  to 
have  rode  out  attended  by  elephants  and  camelopards, 
tamed  by  an  art  then  first  introduced,  and  since  lost.  The 
natives  were  also  dazzled  by  the  display  of  a  mass  of  solid 
gold,  weighing  thirty  pounds,  with  which  the  throne  was 
embellished.  This  prince  is  reported  to  have  made  a  great 
profession  of  justice,  going  out  twice  every  day,  and  pre- 
senting himself  to  all  who  wished  to  oflTer  petition  or  com- 
plaint. The  vicissitudes  of  fortune  have  subverted  the 
kingdom  of  Ghana,  and  made  its  territory  successively  sub- 
ject to  Timbuctoo,  Kashna,  and  Sackatoo  ;  but  our  late 
travellers  found  it,  under  the  changed  name,  or  rather  or- 
thography, of  Kano,  still  extensive  and  populous,  and  con- 
tinuing to  be  the  chief  seat  of  the  interior  commerce  of 
Africa. 

Tocmr,  about  twenty-four  days'  journey  north-west  of 
Ghana,  was  a  kingdom  inferior  indeed  to  the  other,  yet 
powerful  and  independent.  It  carried  on  an  extensive 
traffic  with  the  people  of  the  "  remotest  west,"  who  brought 
shells  (cowries "?)  and  brass,  for  which  they  received  gold 
and  ornaments.  Mention  is  made  of  the  fine  cotton  cloths 
which  still  form  the  staple  manufacture.  Tocrur  appears 
evidently  to  be  Sackatoo  or  Soccatoo,  now  the  capital  of 
an  empire  which  comprehends  Ghana  and  all  the  neigh- 
bouring countries.  Indeed,  in  an  official  document  com- 
municated by  Major  Denham,  we  find  this  called  the  empire 
of  Takror. 

Kuku,  to  the  eastward  of  Ghana,  fonns  another  kingdom, 
on  whose  power  and  extent  the  Arabian  writers  largely 
dilate.  The  sovereign  is  said  to  have  a  very  numerous 
train  of  attendants,  and  the  people  to  be  uncommonly  war- 
like, though  rude  in  their  manners  and  attire.  The  mer- 
chants, however,  are  represented  as  very  richly  dressed,  and 
accustomed  to  visit  and  converse  with  the  governors  and 
nobility.  This  country  is  manifestly  Bornou,  named  from 
its  capital,  which  bears  still  the  same  appellation.  Twenty 
D2 


43  SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS. 

days'  ^^urney  to  the  south  was  Kaugha,  a  city  famous  for 
industry  and  useful  arts,  and  the  women  of  which  were 
skilled  in  the  secrets  of  magic.  Though  the  resemblance 
of  name  is  rather  imperfect,  this  seems  to  be  Denham's 
Loggum,  much  celebrated  by  him  for  its  ingenious  labours 
and  fine  manufactures,  as  well  as  for  the  intelligence  of  its 
females ;  and,  among  a  rude  people,  wit  and  witchery  are 
always  imagined  to  have  a  close  connexion. 

To  the  south  of  Ghana  lay  Wangara,  a  district  that  is 
said  to  have  contained  gold,  the  commodity  for  which 
African  commerce  was  so  much  prized.  This  region  is 
described  as  intersected  and  overflowed  during  the  rainy 
season  by  the  branches  of  the  Nile  (of  the  Negroes,  or 
Niger),  which  impregnate  the  earth  with  the  sand,  it  is 
said,  whence  this  precious  metal  was  extracted.  As  soon 
as  the  waters  have  retired,  the  inhabitants  eagerly  dig  the 
ground,  and  every  one  finds  more  or  less,  "  according  to 
the  gift  of  God."  There  seems  to  be  some  confusion  of 
ideas  about  this  country  and  its  golden  products.  A  dis- 
trict in  the  southern  part  of  Squdan  is  called  Oongoroo,  or 
Ungura ;  but  it  no  longer  furnishes  gold  ;  nor  is  Ghana,  at 
the  present  day,  the  market  for  that  valuable  staple  of 
Central  Africa.  In  the  mountainous  countries  to  the  south- 
west tliis  metal  is  still  collected  abundantly,  in  the  very 
manner  described  by  the  Arabian  writers. 

The  whole  range  of  alpine  territory  to  the  southward  of 
the  regions  now  described  was  called  Lamlam,  and  pre- 
sented a  continued  scene  of  barbarous  violence.  It  was 
branded  as  the  land  of  the  infidels, — of  a  people  to  whom 
none  of  the  charities  of  life  were  due,  and  against  whom 
the  passions  of  cruelty  and  of  avarice  might  be  gratified 
without  remorse.  Expeditions  or  slave-hunts  were  there- 
fore made  into  these  unfortunate  countries ;  when,  after  a 
bloody  conflict,  numerous  victims  were  seized,  carried  ofl^", 
and  sold  to  the  merchants  of  Northern  Africa,  who  con- 
veyed them  to  all  parts  of  the  eastern  world.  The  same 
cruel  and  iniquitous  traffic  is  carried  on  in  a  similar  manner, 
and  with  unabated  activity,  at  the  present  da}^ 

Respecting  Western  Atrica,  the  Arabians  do  not  seem  to 
have  been  very  accurately  informed.  They  describe  tlxe 
Atlantic  as  only  about  five  hundred  miles  beyond  Tocrur, 
although  two  thousand  would  have  been  nearer  the  truth; 


SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS.  43 

perhaps  they  mistook  the  great  lake  Dibbie  for  the  sea. 
They  mention  the  island  of  Ulil,  whence  were  brought  great 
quantities  of  salt,  an  article  which  is  in  constant  demand 
throughout  Soudan.  Ulil,  though  called  an  island,  was 
probably  Walet,  ihe  great  interior  market  for  that  mineral ; 
but  all  the  features  of  the  country  around  and  beyond  it 
seem  to  have  been  confusedly  blended  together  by  the  Mo 
hammedan  authors. 

At  the  time  when  the  Arabian  geographers  flourished, 
the  Christian  religion  was  professed,  not  only  in  Abyssinia, 
but  even  in  Nubia,  to  its  northern  frontier  at  Syene.  The 
bigotry  and  dislike  produced  by  hostile  creeds,  not  only  de- 
prived these  writers  of  the  means  of  information,  but  led 
them  to  view  with  contempt  every  thing  relating  to  coun- 
tries accounted  infidel.  Their  notices,  therefore,  of  the  re- 
gions in  the  Upper  Nile,  and  along  the  western  shores  of 
the  Red  Sea,  are  exceedingly  meager.  It  was  otherwise, 
indeed,  with  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa  on  the  Indian 
Ocean.  The  people  of  Southern  Arabia,  who  were  then 
actively  employed  in  commerce  and  navigation,  had  not  only 
explored,  but  formed  establishments  at  Mombaza,  Melinda, 
Mozambique,  and  at  all  the  leading  points  on  that  coast; 
which  were  still  found  in  their  possession  by  the  early  Por- 
tuguese navigators. 

For  this  general  view  of  Central  Africa  in  the  twelfth 
century,  we  are  indebted  to  Edrisi,  Abulfeda,  Ibn-al-Vardi, 
and  other  writers,  who  do  not  however  pretend  to  have 
visited  in  person  the  regions  which  they  describe.  Arabic 
literature  has,  notwithstanding,  been  also  enriched  by  the 
productions  of  some  eminent  travellers.  Wahab  and  Abu- 
zaid,  in  the  ninth  century,  penetrated  into  China,  and  com- 
municated to  the  western  world  the  first  distinct  idea  of  that 
remarkable  empire  and  people.  Their  career,  however,  was 
lar  surpassed  in  the  fourteenth  century  by  Ibn  Batuta,  a 
learned  Mohammedan,  who  traversed  the  continents  of  Asia 
and  Africa  from  the  eastern  ocean  to  the  banks  of  the  Niger. 
For  a  knowledge  of  his  narrative  the  English  public  have 
just  been  indebted  to  the  learned  labours  of  Professor  Lee- 
of  Cambridge,  as  a  member  of  the  Society  for  Oriental 
Translation.  Unfortunately,  he  could  only  procure  the  work 
in  a  very  abridged  fonn,  which  renders  it  more  an  object  of 
curiosity  than  as  fitted  to  convey  full  information  of  the  state 
of  the  world  at  that  early  pe  'od. 


44  SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS. 

It  was  from  Fez  that  Ibn  Batuta  commenced  his  peregri- 
nation through  Interior  Africa.  He  went  first  to  Segil- 
missa,  which  he  describes  as  a  handsome  town,  situated  in 
a  territory  abounding  with  date-trees.  Having  joined  a  ca- 
ravan, he  came,  after  a  journey  of  twenty-five  days,  to 
Thargari,  which  some  manuscripts  make  Tagaza,  and  is 
therefore  evidently  the  Tegazza  of  Leo,  supposed  by  Major 
Rennel  to  be  the  modern  Tishect,  containing  the  mine 
whence  Timbuctoo  is  chiefly  suppUed  with  salt.  To  our 
traveller  the  place  appeared  to  contain  no  object  desirable  or 
agreeable  :  there  was  nothing  but  salt ;  the  houses  were 
built  wuth  slabs  of  that  mineral,  and  roofed  with  the  hides 
of  camels.  It  even  appeared  to  him  that  nature  had  lodged 
this  commodity  in  regular  tables  in  the  mine,  fitted  for  being 
conveyed  to  a  distance  ;  but  he  probably  overlooked  an  arti- 
ficial process  by  which  it  is  usually  brought  into  this  form. 
From  Thargari  he  went  in  twenty  days  to  Tashila,  three 
days  beyond  which  commenced  a  desert  of  the  most  dreary 
aspect,  where  there  was  neither  water,  beast,  nor  bird, 
"  nothin^g  but  sand  and  hills  of  sand."  In  ten  days  he 
came  to  Abu  Latin,  a  large  commercial  town,  crowded  with 
merchants  from  various  quarters  of  the  continent.  The 
manners  of  the  people,  as  is  indeed  too  common  in  the 
scenes  of  inland  traffic  throughout  Africa,  appeared  to  him 
very  licentious,  and  wholly  destitute  of  that  decorum  which 
usually  marks  a  Mussulman  residence.  The  women  main- 
tained a  greater  share  of  respectability  than  the  other  sex ; 
yet  this  did  not  prevent  them  from  hiring  themselves  as  tem- 
porary wives  to  those  whom  the  pursuits  of  trade  induced 
to  visit  Abu  Latin.  The  editor  has  not  hazarded  a  conjec- 
ture what  place  this  is  ;  but  on  finding  it  in  one  manuscript 
called  Ayulatin,  and  in  another  Ewelatin,  I  think  there  is 
no  doubt  of  its  being  Walet,  which  lay  completely  in  the 
route  of  our  traveller,  and  is  the  only  great  city  in  that 
quarter  of  Africa. 

From  Abu  Latin  the  adventurer  proceeded  in  tw^enty-four 
days  to  Mali,  then  the  most  flourishing  country  and  city  in 
that  part  of  the  continent.  This  Mali  is  evidently  the  Melli 
of  Leo,  who  described  it  as  situated  on  a  river  to  the  south 
of  Timbuctoo  ;  but  it  is  not  so  easy  to  identify  it  with  any 
modern  position.  Our  traveller  makes  heavy  complaints  of 
the  cold  reception  and  narrow  bounty  of  an  African  poten- 
tate in  this  district.     After  waitina  upon  liis  majeety,  he 


SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS.  45 

was  informed  that  a  present  was>  on  its  way  to  him,  and  he 
feasted  his  imagination  on  the  idea  of  some  rich  dress  or 
golden  ornament ;  instead  of  which,  the  whole  consisted  of 
a  crust  of  bread,  a  dried  fish,  and  sour  milk.  He  had  the 
boldness  to  remonstrate  with  the  king  on  this  donation,  de- 
claring, that  in  course  of  travelling  over  the  whole  world, 
he  had  never  received  the  like ;  and  his  majesty,  insterj  of 
being  incensed,  began  to  extend  to  him  some  measure  of 
bounty.  Ibn  Batuta,  however,  was  disgusted  by  the  abject 
homage  paid  to  this  monarch,  as  it  still  is  to  the  native 
princes  of  Africa ;  the  courtiers,  as  they  approached,  cast- 
ing dust  on  their  heads,  throwing  themselves  prostrate  and 
grovelling  on  the  earth, — a  degradation  which  he  had  never 
witnessed  in  the  most  despotic  courts  of  the  East.  Yet 
justice  is  admitted  to  have  been  most  strictly  administered, 
and  property  to  be  perfectly  secure  ;  as  a  proof  of  which, 
merchants  from  the  most  distant  country,  who  died  at  Mali, 
were  as  assured  of  leaving  their  inheritance  to  their  poste- 
rity as  if  it  had  been  deposited  at  home.  The  traveller 
was  astonished  by  the  immense  bulk  of  the  trees  of  this  re- 
gion, in  the  hollow  trunk  of  one  of  which  he  observed  a 
weaver  plying  his  trade. 

Ibn  Batuta  on  this  part  of  his  journey  saw  the  Niger ; 
and  the  view  necessarily  led  to  a  conclusion  opposite  to  that 
hitherto  entertained  by  his  countrymen,  who  considered  it 
as  flowing  westward  to  the  ocean.  Destitute  of  all  oppor- 
tunity of  complete  observation,  he  fell  into  the  opposite 
error,  since  prevalent  in  Northern  Africa,  and  identified  it 
with  the  Nile.  He  supposed  it  to  flow  by  Timbuctoo,  Ka- 
kaw  (Kuku^),  Yuwi  (seemingly  the  Yeou,  or  river  of  Bor- 
nou),  and  then  by  Nubia  to  Egypt. 

From  Mali  our  traveller  turned  northward  to  Timbuctoo. 
This  city  was  then  subject  to  the  former,  governed  by  a 
negro  viceroy,  and  far  from  possessing  the  celebrity  and 
importance  which  it  has  since  attained.  The  town  is  de- 
scribed as  being  chiefly  peopled  by  merchants  from  Latham, 
but  what  particular  country  that  was  it  appears  now  impos- 
sible to  conjecture.  He  next  proceeded  eastward  by  Ka- 
kaw,  Basdama,  and  Nakda,  where  he  seems  to  have  been 
near  Nubia,  but  gives  no  farther  details  till  he  again  arrived 
at  Fez. 

About  two  centuries  after  Ibn  Batuta,  a  very  full  de« 


46  SETTLEMENTS  OF  THE  ARABS. 

Bcription  of  Africa  was  furnished  by  a  geographer  named 
Leo,  who  was  even  honoured  with  the  surname  of  Africa- 
nus.  He  was  a  native  of  Granada,  but  after  the  capture  of 
that  city  by  Ferdinand,  repaired  to  Fez ;  and  in  that  once 
eminent  school,  appHed  himself  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of 
Arabic  learning  and  of  the  African  continent.  He  after- 
ward travelled  through  a  great  part  of  the  interior,  and, 
having  repaired  to  Rome,  wrote  his  description  of  Africa 
under  the  auspices  of  Leo  X.  It  appears,  that  since  the 
time  of  Edrisi,  one  of  those  revolutions  to  which  barbarous 
states  are  liable  had  greatly  changed  the  aspect  of  these 
countries.  Timbuctoo,  which  at  the  fonner  period  either 
did  not  exist,  or  was  not  thought  worthy  of  mention,  had 
now  risen  to  be  the  most  powerful  of  the  interior  kingdoms, 
and  the  great  centre  of  commerce  and  wealth.  Ghana,  once 
possessed  of  imperial  greatness,  had  already  changed  its 
name  to  Kano,  and  was  ranked  as  tributary  to  Timbuctoo. 
Bornou  appears  under  its  old  appellation ;  and  several 
kingdoms  which  have  since  held  a  conspicuous  place  are 
mentioned  for  the  first  time, — Casena  or  Cassina  (Kashna), 
Zegzeg,  Zanfara,  and  Guber.  Gago,  represented  as  being 
four  hundred  miles  south-east  of  Timbuctoo,  is  evidently 
Eyeo,  lately  visited  by  Clapperton.  Ghinea,  or  Gheneoa, 
described  as  a  city  of  great  commerce  and  splendour,  has 
been  supposed  to  be  Ghana;  but  I  think  it  is  evidently 
Jennc,  which  Park  found  to  be  the  largest  and  most  flou- 
rishing city  of  Bambarra.  At  Timbuctoo  many  of  the  mer- 
chants were  extremely  opulent,  and  two  of  them  had  ob- 
tained princesses  in  marriage.  Literature  was  cultivated 
with  ardour,  and  manuscripts  bore  a  higher  price  than  any 
other  commodity.  Izchia,  the  king,  who  had  been  success- 
ful in  subduing  all  the  neighbouring  countries,  maintained 
an  army  of  3000  horse,  and  a  numerous  infantry,  partly 
armed  with  poisoned  arrows.  Gold,  for  which  Timbuctoo 
bad  now  become  the  chief  mart,  was  lavishly  employed  in 
the  ornament  of  his  court  and  person.  He  displayed  solid 
masses,  larger  oven  than  the  one  at  Ghana,  and  some  of 
his  ornaments  weigehd  1300  ounces.  The  royal  palace  and 
several  mosques  were  handsomely  built  of  stone  ;  but  the 
ordinary  habitations  here,  as  in  all  Central  Africa,  were 
merely  bell-shaped  huts,  the  materials  of  which  were  stakes, 
clay,  and  reeds. 


PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES  47 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Portuguese  Discoveries. 

Europe,  for  ten  centuries,  durini^  the  decline  cf  the  Ro- 
man empire,  the  irruption  of  the  barbarous  nations,  and  the 
operation  of  the  rude  systems  of  feudal  polity,  remained 
sunk  in  profound  apathy  respecting  all  objects  relating  to 
science,  discovery,  and  distant  commerce.  The  splendour 
of  the  Crescent  for  a  short  interval  outshone  all  that  was 
brightest  in  the  Christian  world  ;  and  the  courts  of  Bagdad, 
of  Fez,  and  of  Cordova  were  more  refined  and  more  en- 
lightened than  those  of  London  and  Paris.  At  a  somewhat 
early  period,  it  is  true,  the  Hanse  Towns  and  the  Italian 
republics  began  to  cultivate  manufactures  and  commerce, 
and  to  lay  the  foundation  of  a  still  higher  prosperity  ;  but 
they  carried  on  chiefly  an  inland  or  coasting  trade.  The 
naval  efforts  even  of  Venice  and  Genoa  extended  no  far- 
ther than  to  bring  from  Alexandria  and  the  shores  of  the 
Black  Sea  the  commodities  of  India,  which  had  been  con- 
veyed thither  chiefly  by  caravans  overland.  Satisfied  with 
the  wealth  and  power  to  which  they  had  been  raised  by  this 
local  and  limited  commerce,  these  celebrated  republics  m  ide 
no  attempt  to  open  a  more  extended  path  over  the  ocean. 
Their  pilots,  indeed,  guided  most  of  the  vessels  which  were 
engiged  in  the  early  voyages  of  discovery;  but  they  were 
employed,  and  the  means  furnished,  by  the  great  monarchs 
whose  ports  were  situated  upon  the  shores  of  the  At- 
lantic. 

About  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  the  human  mind 
bugan  to  make  a  grand  movement  in  every  direction ;  in  re- 
ligion, science,  freedom,  and  industry.  It  eagerly  sought, 
not  only  to  break  loose  from  that  thraldom  in  which  it  had 
been  bound  for  so  many  ages,  but  to  rival  and  even  surpass 
all  that  had  been  achieved  during  the  most  brilliant  eras  of 
antiquity.  These  high  aims  were  peculiarly  directed  to 
Ihe  department  of  maritime  discovery.  The  invention  of 
the  compass,  the  skill  of  the  Venetian  and  Genoese  pilots, 
and  the  knowledge  transmitted  from  former  times,  inspired 


48  PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES. 

mankind  with  the  hope  of  being  able  to  pass  all  the  ancient 
barriers,  and  to  throw  light  upon  regions  hitherto  unkno\vn. 
A  small  power,  long  sunk  in  apathy  and  political  degrada- 
tion, started  first  in  this  career,  and  took  the  lead  for  a  cer- 
tain time  of  all  the  European  states.  Portugal,  during  the 
reign  of  its  kings  John  and  Emmanuel,  stood  pre-eminent 
in  enterprise  and  inteUigence.  Prince  Henry,  in  particular, 
a  younger  son  of  John  I.,  devoted  all  his  thoughts  and  his 
whole  life  to  the  promotion  of  naval  undertakings.  No 
idea,  however,  was  yet  entertained  of  the  new  worlds  which 
were  afterward  discovered  by  the  daring  spirit  of  Columbus. 
The  ioc.il  position  of  Portugal,  its  wars  and  expeditions 
against  Miwocco,  led  to  the  idea  that  the  western  border  of 
Africa  was  the  best  field  for  discovery.  The  information 
respecting  this  coast  was  still  very  limited ;  so  that  the 
passage  of  ('ape  Bojador  by  GiUanez,  in  1433,  caused  a 
surprise  and  admiration  almost  equal  to  what  were  after- 
ward excited  by  tbe  discovery  of  America.  A  rapid  pro- 
gress was  afterward  made  along  the  shore  of  the  Sahara, 
and  the  Portuguese  navigators  were  not  long  in  reaching 
the  fertile  regions  watered  by  the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia. 
The  early  part  of  this  progress  was  dreary  in  the  ex- 
treme. The  mariners  saw  only  naked  rocks  and  burning 
sands,  stretching  immeasurably  into  the  interior,  and  afford- 
ing no  encouragement  to  any  project  of  settlement.  Be- 
yond Cape  Blanco,  however,  Nuno  Tristan,  in  1443,  dis- 
covered the  island  of  Arguin  ;  and  notwithstanding  the 
disaster  of  Gonzalo  da  Cintra,  who,  in  1445,  was  killed  by 
a  party  of  Moors,  the  Portuguese  made  it  for  some  time 
their  principal  establishment.  The  country  was  far  from 
presenting  a  brilliant  aspect,  though  it  was  visited  by  cara- 
vans of  the  "  Brabariis  and  l^uddaias"  (the  people  of 
Bambarra  and  Ludamar),  who  gave  a  very  favourable  re- 
port of  the  interior  regions.  Besides  the  expected  accession 
to  the  power  and  splendour  of  the  monarchy,  the  Portu- 
guese cherished  another  object  still  more  fondly.  They 
hoped  to  open  an  intercourse  with  a  prince,  or  person,  of 
whom  they  had  heard  much  under  the  mysterious  appelki- 
tion  of  Prester  John.  This  singular  name  seems  to  have 
been  first  introduced  by  travellers  from  Eastern  Asia, 
where  it  hail  been  applied  to  some  Nestorian  bishop,  who 
held  there  a  species  of  sovereignty ;  and  as  soon  as  ru- 


PORTTJCrESE  DISCOVERIES.  49 

mours  arrived  of  the  Ch'ristian  kinof  of  Abyssinia,  he  was 
concluded  to  be  the  real  Prester  ilohn.  His  dominions 
being  reported  to  stretch  far  inland,  and  as  the  b^adth  of 
the  African  continent  was  very  imperfectly  understood,  the 
conclusion  was  formed,  that  a  mission  from  the  western 
coast  might  easily  reach  his  capital.  What  were  the  pre- 
cise expectations  fonned  from  an  intercourse  with  this  per- 
sonage does  not  fully  appear  ;  but  it  seems  to  have  been 
thoroughly  rooted  in  the  minds  of  the  Portuguese,  that 
they  would  be  raised  to  a  matchless  height  of  glory  and 
felicity,  if  they  could  by  any  means  arrive  at  the  court  of 
Preeter  John.  The  principal  instruction  given  to  all  offi- 
cers employed  in  African  service  was,  that,  in  every  quarter 
and  by  every  means,  they  should  endeavour  to  effect  this 
grand  discovery.  They  accordingly  never  failed  to  put  the 
question  to  all  the  wanderers  of  the  desert,  and  to  every 
caravan  that  came  from  the  interior;  but  in  vain — the 
name  of  Prester  John  had  never  been  heard.  The  Portu- 
guese then  besought  the  natives,  at  all  events,  into  what- 
ever region  their  journeys  might  lead  them,  studiously  to 
inquire  if  Prester  John  was  there,  or  if  any  one  knew 
where  he  was  to  be  found  ;  and,  on  the  promise  of  a 
splendid  reward  in  case  of  success,  this  was  readily  under- 
taken. 

In  1446,  Diniz  Fernandez  discovered  Cape  Verd,  and  in 
the  following  year  Lancelot  entered  the  Senegal.  The 
Portuguese  found  in  this  neighbourhood  fertile  and  popu- 
lous regions,  that  promised  to  reward  their  exertions  much 
more  effectually  than  the  visionary  name  after  which  they 
had  so  eagerly  inquired.  A  circumstance  occurred,  also, 
most  convenient  for  monarchs  who  contemplate  an  exten- 
sion of  dominion.  Bemoy,  a  prince  of  the  Jaloff  nation, 
came  to  Arguin,  complaining  that  he  had  been  driven  from 
the  throne,  and  entreating  the  aid  of  the  Portuguese  to 
restore  to  him  his  crown,  which  he  w^as  willing  to  wear  as 
their  ally,  and  even  as  their  vassal.  Bemoy  was  received 
with  open  arms,  and  conveyed  to  Jjisbon.  Here  he  expe- 
rienced a  brilliant  reception,  and  his  visit  was  celebrated 
by  all  the  festal  exhibitions  peculiar  to  that  age, — bull- 
fights, puppet-shows,  and  even  feats  of  dogs.  On  this  oc- 
casion Bemoy  made  a  display  of  the  agility  of  his  native 
attendants,  who,  on  foot,  kept  pace  with  the  swiftest  horses, 
£ 


50  PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES. 

mounting  and  alighting  from  these  animals  at  full  gallop. 
After  being  instructed  in  the  Christian  religion,  he  was 
baptized,  and  did  homage  to  the  king  and  to  the  Pope  for 
the  crown  which  was  to  be  placed  on  his  head ;  for  which 
purpose  a  powerful  armament,  under  the  command  of  Pero 
Vaz  d'Acunha,  was  sent  out  with  him  to  the  banks  of  the 
Senegal. 

The  conclusion  of  this  adventure  was  extremely  tragical. 
A  quarrel  having  arisen  between  Bemoy  and  the  com- 
mander, the  latter  stabbed  the  prmce  on  board  of  his  vessel. 
Whether  this  violent  deed  was  prompted  by  the  heat  of 
passion,  or  by  well-grounded  suspicions  of  Bemoy's  fidelity, 
was  never  fully  hivestigated  ;  but  the  king  learned  the 
event  with  deep  regret,  and  even,  in  consequence,  gave  up 
his  design  of  building  a  fort  on  the  Senegal.  He  made, 
however,  no  pause  in  his  indefatigable  efforts  to  trace  the 
abode  of  Prester  John.  Ambassadors  were  sent  into  the 
interior,  and,  according  to  De  Barros,  even  as  far  as  Tim- 
buctoo.  All  endeavours  were  vain  as  to  the  primary  object ; 
but  the  Portuguese  thereby  gained  a  more  complete  know- 
ledge of  this  part  of  Interior  Africa  than  was  afterward 
attained  in  Europe  till  a  very  recent  period.  Most  of  this 
intelligence,  however,  has  either  perished,  or  still  remains 
locked  up  in  the  archives  of  the  Lusitanian  monarchy. 

The  Portuguese  continued  to  prosecute  African  disco- 
very, till,  in  1471,  they  reached  the  Gold  Coast,  when, 
dazzled  l)y  the  importance  and  splendour  of  the  commodity, 
the  commerce  of  which  gave  name  to  that  region,  they 
built  Elmina  (the  mine),  making  it  the  capital  of  their  pos- 
sessions in  this  continent.  Pushing  onward  to  Benin,  they 
received  a  curious  account  of  an  embassy  said  to  be  sent, 
at  the  accession  of  every  new  monarch,  to  the  court  of  a 
sovereign  called  Ogane,  resident  seven  or  eight  hundred 
miles  in  the  interior.  WTicn  the  ambassadors  were  intro- 
duced, a  silk  curtain  shrouded  the  monarch  from  their  view, 
till  the  moment  of  their  departure,  when  the  royal  foot  was 
graciously  put  forth  from  under  the  veil,  and  "  reverence 
done  to  it  as  to  a  holy  thing."  This  statement  greatly 
excited  the  curiosity  of  the  Portuguese,  to  whom  this  mys- 
terious monarch  appeared,  more  likely  than  any  they  had 
yet  heard  of,  to  be  Prester  John.  Who  this  Ogane  really 
was  has  been  a  subject  of  much  doubtful  discussion. 


PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES^  51 

The  PortugTiese  had  for  some  time  been  desirouB  to 
frame  a  title  to  this  extensive  coast,  part  of  which  they 
had  now  discovered.  They  appealed  chiefly  to  the  reli- 
gion, or  rather  to  the  superstition,  of  the  age.  The  maxim 
had  been  early  established,  that  whatever  country  should 
be  conquered  from  infidel  nations  was  to  be  held  the  pro- 
perty of  the  nctors.  This  claim  was  rendered  available 
by  a  grant  obtained  from  the  Pope,  assigning  to  them  in 
full  dominion  all  lands  which  should  be  discovered  beyond 
Cape  Bojador,  and  in  their  farther  progress  eastward. 
Hence,  after  the  establishment  at  Elmina,  the  king  no 
longer  hesitated  to  assume  the  pompous  title  of  Lord  of 
Guinea,  and  instructed  his  commanders  that,  instead  of 
the  wooden  cross  hitherto  erected  in  sign  of  conquest,  they 
should  raise  pillars  of  stone  double  the  height  of  a  man, 
with  suitable  inscriptions,  surmounted  by  crucifixes  inlaid 
with  lead.  In  1484,  Diego  Cam  sailed  from  Elmina  in 
quest  of  new  shores  on  which  this  emblem  of  Portuguese 
dominion  might  be  planted.  After  passing  Cape  St.  Ca- 
therine, he  found  himself  involved  in  a  very  strong  current 
setting  out  from  the  land,  which  was  still  distant ;  though 
the  water,  when  tasted,  was  found  to  be  fresh.  It  was 
conjectured,  therefore,  that  he  was  near  the  mouth  of  a 
great  river,  which  proved  to  be  the  fact.  It  has  since  been 
celebrated  under  the  name  of  the  Zaire  or  Congo.  Diego, 
on  reaching  its  southern  bank,  erected  his  first  pillar, — an 
event  considered  so  memorable,  that  the  stream  itself  has 
often,  by  Portuguese  writers,  been  termed  the  "  River  of 
the  Pillar."  He  ascended  its  borders,  opened  an  inter- 
course with  the  natives,  and  inquired  after  (he  residence 
of  their  sovereign.  They  pointed  to  a  place  at  a  consi- 
derable distance  in  the  interior,  and  undertook  to  guide 
thither  a  mission,  which  they  pledged  themselves,  within 
a  stipulated  period,  to  lead  back  in  safety.  As  the  natives 
meantime  passed  and  repassed  on  the  most  intimate  footing, 
Diego  took  advantage  of  a  moment  when  several  of  the 
principal  persons  were  on  board  his  ship,  weighed  anclior, 
and  stood  out  to  sea.  He  soothed  the  alarm  visible  in  the 
countenances  of  their  countrymen  on  shore,  by  signs,  inti- 
mating that  this  step  was  taken  solely  to  gratify  the  anx- 
ious desire  of  his  sovereign  to  see  and  converse  with  these 
African  chiefs  ;  that  in  fifteen  moons  they  should  certainly 


62  PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES. 

be  brought  back  again  ;  and  that,  meanwhile,  a  number  of 
his  people  should  be  left  as  hostages.  Diego  then  sailed 
to  Lisbon,  where  he  introduced  with  triumph  these  living 
trophies  of  his  discovery.  The  king  was  highly  gratified, 
and  held  many  conversations  w^ith  the  Congo  princes, 
whom  he  loaded  with  honours,  and  caused  to  be  conveyed 
back  at  the  appointed  period  to  the  shores  of  the  Zaire. 
On  Diego's  arrival  at  that  river,  it  was  highly  gratifying  to 
see,  waiting  on  the  bank,  the  part  of  his  crew  whom  he 
had  left  as  pledges,  and  respecting  whom  he  had  felt  some 
anxiety.  He  was  invited  to  court,  where  the  king  not 
only  received  him  with  kindness,  but  agreed  to  embrace 
Christianity,  and  to  send  several  of  his  principal  lords  to 
Europe,  to  be  instructed  in  its  principles.  They  sailed, 
accordingly,  and  this  new  arrival  of  Congo  leaders  of  the 
first  rank  gave  fresh  satisfaction  at  Lisbon.  They  re- 
mained two  years,  experiencing  the  very  best  treatment ; 
and  on  their  being  considered  ripe  for  baptism,  the  king 
stood  godfather  to  the  principal  envoy,  and  his  chief  no- 
bles to  others  ;  on  which  occasion  the  Africans  received 
the  names  of  the  persons  by  whom  they  had  been  thus 
honoured. 

In  1490,  a  new  armament,  guided  by  Ruy  de  Sousa, 
conveyed  back  the  Congo  nobles  to  their  native  country. 
The  Portuguese,  on  their  arrival,  were  received  by  the  king 
in  full  pomp.  The  native  troops  approached  in  three 
lines,  making  so  prodigious  a  noise  with  horns,  kettledrums, 
and  other  instruments,  and  raising  shouts  so  tremendous, 
as  to  surpass  all  that  the  Europeans  had  ever  witnessed  in 
Catholic  processions  and  invocations  to  the  saints.  The 
king  himself  was  seated  in  the  midst  of  a  large  park,  upon 
an  ivory  chair  raised  on  a  platform.  He  was  dressed  in 
rich  and  glossy  skins  of  wild  beasts,  a  bracelet  of  brass 
hanging  from  his  left  arm,  a  horse's  tail  from  his  shoulder, 
and  on  his  head  a  bonnet  of  fine  cloth  woven  from  the 
palm-tree.  He  gave  full  permission  to  erect  a  church 
and,  when  murmurs  were  heard  from  a  few  of  his  attend- 
ants, he  instantly  oflTered  to  put  them  to  death  on  the  spot  • 
but  th«;  Portuguese  laudably  dissuaded  him  from  so  violent 
a  step.  He  himself  and  all  his  nobles  were  baptized  ;  and 
free  scope  was  allowed  to  the  exertions  of  the  Catholic 
missionaries.     These  churchmen  seem  to  have  been  really 


PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES.  53 

animated  with  a  very  devoted  and  persevering  zeal ;  but 
they  had,  unfortunately,  conceived  an  incorrect  idea  of  what 
they  came  to  teach,  and,  instead  of  inculcating  the  pure 
doctrines  and  precepts  of  Christianity,  merely  amused  the 
people  with  empty  and  childish  pageantry.  The  presenta- 
tion of  beads,  Agni  Dei,  images  of  the  Madonna  and 
saints ;  the  splendid  processions  ;  the  rich  furniture  and 
solemn  ceremonies  of  the  church,  dazzled  the  eyes  of  the 
savage  natives,  and  made  them  view  Christianity  only  as 
a  gay  and  pompous  pageant,  in  which  it  would  be  an 
amusement  to  join.  The  sacrament  of  baptism,  to  which 
the  Catholics  attach  such  pre-eminent  importance,  was 
chiefly  recommended  by  a  part  of  the  ritual  that  consisted 
in  putting  into  the  mouth  a  ceitain  quantity  of  salt,  which, 
in  Congo,  is  an  extremely  rare  and  valued  commodity  ;  and 
the  missionaries  were  not  a  little  disconcerted  to  find  that 
he  very  form  by  which  the  natives  expressed  baptism  was 
*'  to  eat  salt."  Thus  an  immense  body  of  the  people  were 
very  speedily  baptized  and  called  Christians,  but  without 
any  idea  of  the  duties  and  obligations  which  that  sacred 
uame  imposes.  There  was,  however,  one  point  which  the 
missionaries  soon  began  very  conscientiously,  and  perhaps 
in  rather  too  hasty  and  peremptory  a  manner,  to  enforce. 
Aj)palled  by  the  host  of  wives  that  surrounded  every  Afri- 
can prince  or  chief,  who  fulfilled  for  him  every  purpose 
of  state  and  domestic  service,  and  whom  it  had  been  his  con- 
stant study  and  pride  to  multiply,  the  missionaries  made  a 
call  on  their  converts  to  select  one,  and  to  make  a  sweeping 
dismissal  of  all  the  others.  This  was  considered  an  un- 
warrantable inroad  on  one  of  the  most  venerated  institutions 
of  the  realm  of  Congo.  To  the  aged  monarch  the  privation 
appeared  so  intolerable  that  he  thereupon  renounced  his 
Christian  profession,  and  plunged  again  into  the  abyss  of 
pagan  superstition.  Happily,  Alphonso,  the  youthful  heir- 
apparent,  saw  nothing  so  dreadful  in  the  sacrifice  ;  he 
cheerfully  submitted  to  it,  and,  braving  his  father's  dis- 
pleasure, remained  attached  to  the  Portuguese.  The  old 
king  dying  soon  after,  the  zealous  convert  became  entitled 
to  reign  ;  but  his  brother,  Panso  Aquitimo,  supported  by 
the  nobles  and  almost  the  whole  nation,  raised  the  standard 
of  rebellion  in  support  of  polygamy  and  paganism.  A  civil 
war  ensued,  m  which  the  prince  had  little  moie  than  a 
E2 


54  PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES. 

handful  of  Portuguese  to  oppose  to  the  innumerable  host  of 
his  rebel  countrymen ;  however,  in  consequence,  as  his  ad- 
herents beliewd,  of  the  appearance  in  the  clouds,  at  ono 
time  of  St.  James,  and  at  another  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  he 
always  came  off  victorious.  Doubtless  the  better  arms  and 
discipline  of  the  Portuguese  rendered  them  superior  in  the 
field  to  the  tumultuary  host  of  their  rude  assailants. 

Alphonso  being  thus  firmly  seated  on  his  throne,  the 
missionaries  for  a  time  secured  a  safe  and  comfortable  esta- 
blishment in  Congo.  Being  reinforced  by  successive  bo- 
dies of  their  brethren,  they  spread  ever  the  neighbouring 
countries,  Sundi,  Pango,  Concobella,  Maopongo,  many 
tracts  of  which  were  rich  and  populous,  though  the  state 
of  society  was  often  extremely  rude.  Every  where  their 
career  was  nearly  similar.  The  people  gave  them  the  most 
cordial  reception,  flocked  in  crowds  to  witness  and  to  share 
in  the  pomp  of  their  ceremonies,  accepted  with  thankful- 
ness their  sacred  gifts,  and  received  by  thousands  the  rite 
of  baptism.  They  were  not,  however,  on  this  account  pre- 
pared to  renounce  their  ancient  habits  and  superstitions. 
The  inquisition,  which  was  speedily  instituted  among  their 
ecclesiastical  arrangements,  caused  a  sudden  re\ailsion ; 
and  the  missionaries  thenceforth  maintained  only  a  preca- 
rious and  even  a  perilous  position.  They  were  much  re- 
proached, it  appears,  for  the  rough  and  violent  methods 
employed  to  effect  their  pious  purposes ;  and  though  they 
treat  the  accusation  as  most  unjust,  some  of  the  proceed- 
ings of  which  they  boast  with  the  greatest  satisfaction 
tend  not  a  little  to  countenance  the  charge.  When,  for  ex- 
ample, they  could  not  persuade  the  people  to  renounce  their 
idols,  they  used  a  large  staff  wuth  which  they  threw  them 
down  and  beat  them  in  pieces ;  they  even  sometimes  stole 
secretly  into  the  temples  and  set  them  on  fire.  A  mission- 
ary at  Maopongo  having  met  one  of  the  queens,  and  finding 
her  mind  inaccessible  to  all  his  instructions,  determined  to  use 
harper  remedies,  and,  seizing  a  whip,  began  to  apply  it  to 
her  majesty's  person.  The  effect  he  describes  as  most  au- 
spicious ;  every  successive  blow  opened  her  eyes  more  and 
more  to  the  truth,  and  she  at  length  declared  herself  wholly 
unable  to  resist  such  affecting  arguments  in  favour  of  the 
Catholic  doctrine.  It  was  found,  however,  that  she  had 
hastened  to  the  king  with  loud  complaints  respecting  thi« 


PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES.  55 

moilf  of  spiritual  illumination,  and  the  missionaries  thence 
foilb  lost  all  favour  both  with  that  prince  and  the  ladies  of 
his  court,  being  allowed  to  remain  solely  through  dread  of 
the  Tortuguese.  In  only  one  other  instance  were  they 
permitted  to  employ  this  mode  of  conversion.  The  smith, 
in  consequence  of  the  skill,  strange  in  the  eyes  of  a  rude 
people,  with  which  he  manufactured  various  arms  and  im- 
plements, was  viewed  by  them  as  possessing  a  measure  of 
superhuman  power ;  and  he  had  thus  been  encouraged  to 
advance  pretensions  to  the  character  of  a  divinity,  which 
were  very  generally  admitted.  The  missionaries  appealed 
to  the  king  respecting  this  impious  assumption ;  and  that 
prince,  conceiving  it  to  interfere  with  the  respect  due  to 
himself,  agreed  to  deliver  into  their  hands  the  unfortunate 
smith,  to  be  converted  into  a  mortal  in  any  manner  they 
might  judge  efficacious.  After  a  short  and  unsuccessful 
argument,  ifhey  had  recourse  to  the  above  potent  instrument 
of  conversion ;  yet  Vulcan,  deserted  in  this  extremity  by  aft 
his  votaries,  made  still  a  firm  stand  for  his  celestial  dignity, 
till  the  blood  began  to  stream  from  his  back  and  shoulders, 
when  he  finally  yielded,  and  renounced  all  pretensions  to  a 
divine  origin. 

Farther  acquaintance  discovered  other  irregularities, 
against  which  a  painful  struggle  was  to  be  maintained.  It 
was  a  prevailing  practice,  that  before  marriage  the  two  par- 
ties should  live  together  for  some  time,  and  make  trial  of 
each  other's  tempers  and  inclinations,  before  they  formed 
the  final  engagement.  To  this  system  of  probation  the 
people  were  most  obstinately  attached,  and  the  missionaries 
in  vain  denounced  it,  calling  upon  them  at  once  either  to 
marry  or  to  separate.  The  young  ladies  were  always  the 
most  anxious  to  have  the  full  benefit  of  this  experimental 
process  ;  and  the  mothers,  on  being  referred  to,  refused  to 
incur  responsibility,  and  expose  themselves  to  the  reproaches 
of  their  daughters,  by  urging  them  to  an  abridgment  of 
the  trial,  of  which  they  might  afterward  repent.  The  mis- 
sionaries seem  to  have  been  most  diHgent  in  the  task,  as 
they  call  it,  of  "reducing  strayed  souls  to  matrimony." 
Father  Benedict  succeeded  with  no  less  than  six  hundred ; 
but  he  found  it  such  "laborious  work,"  that  he  fell  sick 
and  died  in  consequence.  Another  subject  of  deep  regret 
respected  the  many  superstitious  practices  still  prevalent, 


66  PORTUGUESE  DISCOVERIES. 

even  among  those  who  exhibited  some  sort  of  Christian 
profession.  Sometimes  the  children  brought  for  baptism 
proved  t()  be  bound  with  magic  cords,  to  which  the  mothers, 
as  an  additional  security  from  evil,  had  fastened  beads, 
relics,  and  figures  of  the  Agnus  Dei.  The  chiefs,  in  like 
manner,  while  they  gladly  availed  themselves  of  the  protec- 
tion promised  from  the  wearing  of  crucifixes  and  images  of 
the  Virgin,  were  unprepared  to  part  with  the  enchanted 
rings,  and  other  pagan  amulets,  with  which  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  form  a  panoply  around  their  persons.  In 
case  of  dangerous  illness,  sorcery  had  been  always  contem- 
plated  as  the  main  or  sole  remedy ;  and  those  who  rejected 
its  use  were  reproached  as  rather  allowing  their  «ick  rela- 
tions to  die  than  incur  the  expense  of  a  conjurer.  But  the 
most  general  and  most  pernicious  application  of  magic 
w'as  made  in  judicial  proceedings.  When  a  charge  was 
advanced  against  any  individual,  no  one  ever  thought  of  in- 
quiring into  the  facts,  or  of  collecting  evidence ;  every  case 
was  decided  by  preternatural  tests.  The  magicians  pre- 
pared a  beverage,  which  produced  on  the  guilty  person,  ac- 
cordmg  to  the  measure  of  his  iniquity,  spasm,  fainting,  or 
death,  but  left  the  innocent  (juite  free  from  harm.  It  seems 
a  sound  conclusion  of  the  missionaries,  that  the  draught  was 
riiodified  according  to  the  good  or  ill  will  of  the  magicians, 
or  the  liberaUty  of  the  supposed  culprit.  This  trial,  called 
the  bolimgo,  was  indeed  renounced  by  the  king,  but  only  to 
substitute  another,  in  which  the  accused  was  made  to  beni 
over  a  large  basin  of  water,  when,  if  he  fell  in,  he  was  con- 
cluded guilty.  At  other  times,  a  bar  of  red-hot  iron  was 
passed  along  the  leg,  or  the  arm  was  thrust  into  scalding 
water;  and  if  the  natural  eflects  followed,  the  person's 
head  was  immediately  struck  oflT.  Snail-shells,  applied  to 
the  temples,  if  they  stuck,  inferred  guilt.  When  a  dispute 
arose  between  man  and  man,  the  plan  was  to  place  a  shell 
on  the  head  of  each,  and  make  them  stoop  ;  when  he  from 
off  whose  head  the  shell  first  dropped  had  a  verdict  found 
against  him.  While  we  wonder  at  the  deplorable  ignorance 
on  which  these  practices  were  founded,  we  must  not  forget 
that  the  ^^  judgments  of  God,^^  as  they  v/ere  termed,  em- 
ployed by  our  sage  ancestors  during  the  middle  ages,  were 
founded  on  the  same  unenlightened  views,  and  were  in  some 
ca^es  absolutely  identical. 


EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES.  57 

Other  powers  of  still  higher  name  held  sway  over  the  de- 
luded minds  of  the  people  of  Congo.  Some  ladies  of  rank 
^•ent  about  beating  a  drum  before  them,  with  dishevelled 
hair,  and  pretending  to  work  magical  cures.  There  was 
also  a  race  of  mighty  conjurers,  called  Scingilli,  who  had 
the  power  of  giving  and  withdrawing  rain  at  pleasure  ;  and 
they  had  a  king  called  Ganja  Chitorne,  or  God  of  the  Earth, 
to  whom  its  first-fruits  were  regularly  offered.  This  per- 
son never  died ;  but  when  tired  of  his  sway  on  earth,  he 
nominated  his  successor  and  killed  himself, — a  step  doubt- 
less prompted  by  the  zeal  of  his  followers,  when  they  saw 
any  danger  of  his  reputation  for  immortality  being  compro- 
mised. This  class  argued  strongly  in  favour  of  their  vo- 
cation, as  not  only  useful,  but  absolutely  essential ;  since 
without  it  the  earth  would  be  deprived  of  those  influences  by 
which  alone  it  was  enabled  to  minister  to  the  wants  of  man. 
The  people  accordingly  viewed  with  the  deepest  alarm  any 
idea  of  giving  offence  to  beings  whose  wrath  might  be  dis- 
played in  devoting  the  land  to  utter  sterility. 

We  do  not  possess  any  record  of  the  period  or  the  manner 
in  which  the  Portuguese  and  their  missionaries  were  ex- 
pelled from  Congo ;  but  a  late  expedition  did  not  find  on 
the  banks  of  the  Zaire  any  trace  or  even  recollection  of 
either. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Early  English  Discoveries. 

The  Portuguese,  while  they  bore  away  the  palm  of  mari- 
time enterprise  from  all  other  nations,  considered  Africa 
most  especially  as  a  region  which  they  had  won  for  them- 
selves, and  had  covered  with  trophies  of  discovery  and  vic- 
tory. But  after  being  subjected  to  the  cruel  and  degrading 
yoke  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  they  lost  all  their  spirit  and 
energy.  Under  the  same  influence,  they  became  involved 
in  hostility  with  the  Dutch,  who  had  risen  to  the  first  rank  as 
.  nuval  people,  and  whose  squadrons  successively  stripped 


68  EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIESf. 

them  of  their  most  important  possessions  in  this  continent  as 
well  as  in  the  East  Indies.  In  1637,  Elmina  itself,  their 
capital,  fell  into  the  hands  of  these  bold  and  successful 
rivals  ;  and  at  present,  the  boasted  lords  and  rulers  of 
Guinea  have  not  an  acre  left  of  their  extensive  dominions 
along  the  whole  western  coast;  they  retain  only  the  Ma- 
deiras, Canaries,  and  other  islands,  which  certainly  are  not 
destitute  of  beauty,  and  even  of  some  degree  of  political  and 
commercial  value. 

The  Dutch  did  not  remain  long  undisputed  masters  of 
the  seas.  The  glorious  and  splendid  results  which  had 
arisen  from  the  discovery  of  the  East  and  West  Indies 
caused  the  ocean  to  be  generally  viewed  as  the  grand  theatre 
where  wealth  and  glory  were  to  be  gained.  The  French 
and  English  nations,  whose  turn  it  was  to  take  the  lead  in 
European  affairs,  pressed  eagerly  forward  in  this  career, 
endeavouring  at  once  to  surpass  their  predecessors  and  each 
other.  Many  of  their  African  settlements  were  formed 
with  the  view  of  securing  a  supply  of  slaves  for  their  West 
India  possessions.  But  a  more  distant,  more  innocent, 
and  more  brilliant  object  also  attracted  their  attention. 
Flattering  reports  had  reached  Europe  of  the  magnitude  of 
the  gold  trade  carried  on  at  Timbuctoo  and  along  the  Niger. 
Letters  were  even  received  from  Morocco,  representing  its 
treasures  as  surpassing  those  of  Mexico  and  Peru.  On  that 
side,  indeed,  the  immense  Desert  and  its  barbarous  inha- 
bitants rendered  these  central  regions  almost  inaccessible ; 
but  there  was  another  channel  which  appeared  to  open  the 
fairest  aiid  most  tempting  prospects.  According  to  all  the 
geographical  systems  of  that  age,  the  great  river  Niger, 
which  flowed  through  the  interior  of  the  continent,  and  by 
whose  alluvion  its  plains  were  covered  with  gold,  was  un- 
derstood to  empty  itself  into  the  Atlantic  either  by  the  Se- 
negal or  Gambia,  or,  as  was  more  commonly  supposed,  by 
both  these  rivers,  imagined  to  be  branches  proceeding  from 
the  great  stream.  By  ascending  either  the  Senegal  or  Gam- 
bia, it  therefore  seemed  possible  to  reach  Timbuctoo  and  the 
country  of  Gold  ;  and  this  became  a  favourite  object  with 
several  European  nations. 

In  1618,  a  company  was  formed  in  England  for  the  pur- 
pose of  exploring  the  Gambia.  They  sent  out,  that  same 
year,  Richard  Thompson,  a  person  of  spirit  an^  enterprise 


EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES.  59 

in  charge  of  the  Catherine  of  120  tons,  w]th  a  cargo  worth 
nearly  two  thousand  pounds  sterling.  In  the  month  of 
December  he  entered  the  river ;  and  proceeding  as  high  as 
Kassan,  a  fortified  town,  where  he  left  most  of  his  crew, 
he  pushed  on  in  boats.  The  Portuguese,  who  were  still 
numerous  in  that  district,  and  retained  all  their  lofty  claims, 
were  seized  with  bitter  jealousy  at  this  expedition  madf* 
by  a  foreign  and  rival  power.  Led  on  by  Hector  Nunez, 
they  furiously  attacked  the  party  which  had  been  left  at 
Kassan,  and  succeeded  in  making  a  general  massacre  of 
the  English.  Thompson,  on  learning  these  dreadful 
tidings,  although  unable  to  make  any  eftbrt  to  avenge  the 
slaughter  of  his  countrymen,  still  maintained  his  station  on 
the  river,  and  sent  home  encouraging  accounts  of  the  ge- 
neral prospects  of  the  undertaking.  The  company  hstened 
to  his  statement,  and  sent  out  another  vessel,  which  unfor- 
tunately arrived  at  an  improper  season,  and  lost  most  of  the 
crew  by  sickness.  Even  yet  they  were  not  dismayed,  but, 
retaining  their  ardour  unabated,  fitted  out  a  third  and  larger 
expedition,  consisting  of  the  Sion  of  200  tons,  and  the  St. 
John  of  50,  and  gave  the  command  to  Richard  Jobson,  to 
whom  we  are  indebted  for  the  first  satisfactory  account  of 
the  great  river-districts  of  Western  Africa. 

Jobson  entered  the  Gambia  in  November,  1620 ;  but 
•what  was  his  dismay  on  receiving  the  tidings  that  Thomp- 
son had  perished  by  the  hands  of  his  own  men  !  Mutiny 
was  then  a  frequent  occurrence  on  these  hard  and  distant 
services  ;  but  how  it  arose  in  this  case,  or  who  was  to 
blame,  was  never  duiy  investigated.  The  crew  are  said  to 
have  been  unanimous  in  representing  the  conduct  of  their 
le9.der  as  oppressive  and  intolerable  ;  but,  in  regard  to  a 
man  of  uni^oubted  spirit  and  enterprise,  and  who  fell  the 
first  of  so  many  victims  in  the  cause  of  African  discovery, 
we  should  not  receive  too  readily  the  report  of  those  who 
had  so  deep  an  interest  in  painting  his  character  in  the 
darkest  colours. 

Jobson,  notwithstanding  the  shock  caused  by  this  intelli- 
gence, did  not  suffer  himself  to  be  discouraged,  but  pushing 
briskly  up  the  river,  soon  arrived  at  Kassan.  The  Portu- 
guese inhabitants  in  general  had  fled  before  his  arrival, 
while  the  few  who  remained  professed,  in  respect  to  Hector 
Nunez  and  the  massacre  of  the  English  crew,  an  ignorance. 


60  EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES. 

and  even  a  horror,  for  which  he  gave  them  very  little  credit. 
He  had  reason,  on  the  contrary,  to  beHeve  that  they  were 
forming  a  scheme  of  attack,  and  even  urging  the  natives  to 
rise  against  the  English  ;  and  such  was  the  dread  of  their 
machinations  that  scarcely  any  one  could  be  prevailed  on  to 
act  as  his  pilot.  Notwithstanding  these  suspicions  and 
alarms,  he  still  pursued  his  course ;  but  after  passing  the 
falls  of  Barraconda  he  found  himself  involved  in  great  diffi- 
culties. The  ascent  was  to  be  made  against  a  rapid  cur- 
rent :  the  frequency  of  hidden  rocks  made  it  dangerous  to 
sail  in  the  night ;  and  the  boat  often  struck  upon  sand-banks 
and  shallows,  when  it  was  necessary  for  the  crew  to  strip 
and  go  into  the  water,  in  order  to  push  it  over  these  ob- 
stacles. They  were  once  obliged  to  carry  it  a  mile  and  a 
half,  till  they  found  a  deeper  channel. 

The  English  now  beheld  an  entirely  new  world,  and  a 
new  aspect  of  nature.  On  every  side  there  were  immense 
forests  of  unknown  trees,  while  both  the  land  and  the  water 
were  inhabited  by  multitudes  of  savage  animals,  whose 
roarings  every  night  filled  the  air.  Sometimes  twenty  cro- 
codiles were  seen  together  in  the  stream,  and  their  voices^ 
calling  as  it  were  to  each  other,  resembled  the  "  sound  of  a 
deep  well,"  and  might  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  a  league. 
Sea-horses  also  were  observed  tossing  and  snorting  in  every 
pool ;  while  elephants  appeared  in  huge  herds  on  the  shore 
at  one  place  there  were  sixteen  in  a  single  troop.  These 
last  animals  were  an  object  of  great  terror  to  the  natives,  of 
whom  only  a  few  durst  attack  them  with  their  long  poisoned 
lances  and  assagays ;  but  whenever  vne  English  made  a 
movement  against  them,  they  fled  like  forest-deer,  while,  by 
their  swiftness,  they  eluded  all  pursuit.  Three  balls  were 
lodged  in  one  individual,  yet  he  made  off,  but  was  afterward 
found  dead  by  the  negroes.  Lions,  ounces,  and  leopards 
were  also  seen  at  a  little  distance ;  but,  amid  the  alarms  in- 
spired by  these  formidable  creatures,  the  sailors  were 
amused  by  observing  the  various  evolutions  of  the  monkey 
tribe.  The  baboons  marched  along,  sometimes  in  herds  of 
several  thousands,  with  several  of  the  tallest  in  front,  under 
the  guidance  of  a  principal  leader,  the  lesser  following  be- 
hind, while  a  band  of  larger  size  brought  up  the  rear. 
"  Thus  do  they  march  on,  and  are  very  bold."  At  night,  aa 
they  took  their  stand  upon  the  hillsj  filling  the  air  with  con  > 


EARLY  ENGLISH  DISC011ERIES.  61 

fused  cries,  "  one  great  voice  would  exalt  itself,  and  the  rest 
were  all  hushed."  They  mounted  the  trees  to  look  at  th9 
English,  the  sight  of  whom  seemed  to  inspire  dissatis- 
faction; they  grinned,  shook  the  boughs  violently,  uttered 
angry  cries,  and  when  any  overtures  were  made  towards  ac- 
quaintance, ran  off  at  full  speed.  The  crew  shot  one  ;  but 
before  they  could  reach  the  spot,  the  rest  had  carried  it  off. 
On  tracing  these  creatures  to  their  haunts  in  the  depths  of 
the  forest,  recesses  were  found,  where  the  foliage  had  been 
so  intertwined  above,  and  the  ground  beaten  so  smooth  be- 
neath, as  made  it  difficult  to  beUeve  that  these  "  bowers  for 
dancing  and  disport"  had  not  been  framed  by  human  hands. 

Amid  these  difficulties  and  adventures,  the  party  ar- 
rived at  Tenda  on  the  26th  January,  1621,  where  they  ex- 
pected to  meet  with  Buckar  Sano,  the  chief  merchant  on 
the  Gambia.  This  personage  accordingly  waited  on  them  ; 
but  being  treated  with  brandy,  used  it  so  immoderately  that 
he  lay  all  night  dead  drunk  in  the  boat.  However,  he  seems 
on  this  occasion  to  have  been  merely  off  his  guard,  as  he 
acted  ever  after  a  very  discreet  and  prudent  part.  He  not 
only  carried  on  traffic  himself,  but  was  employed  as  an 
agent  in  managing  all  the  transactions  of  others.  His  good 
faith,  however,  seems  to  have  been  rendered  somewhat 
doubtful  by  the  accounts  which  he  gave  to  Jobson  of  a  city 
four  months'  journey  in  the  interior,  the  roofs  of  which  were 
covered  with  gold. 

The  report  of  a  vessel  come  up  to  trade  caused  a  great 
resort  from  the  neighbouring  districts ;  and  the  natives, 
rearing  temporary  hovels,  soon  formed  a  little  village  on  each 
side  of  the  river.  Speedily  there  appeared  five  hundred  of 
a  ruder  race,  coveied  with  skins  of  wild  animals,  "  the 
tails  hanging  as  fiom  the  beasts."  The  women,  who  had 
never  before  seen  a  white  man,  ran  away  ;  but  the  sight  of 
a  few  beads  soon  allured  them  to  return.  Unluckily,  the 
universal  cry  w.is  for  salt, — a  commodity  deficient  and  much 
desired  through  all  Central  Africa ;  but  Jobson,  not  duly 
apprized  of  this,  had  not  laid  in  a  sufficient  stock.  Every 
thing  else  was  lightly  prized  in  comparison  ;  and  many  who 
were  coming  to  swell  the  market,  on  learning  this  omission, 
instantly  turned  back.  He  obtained  in  exchange  gold  and 
ivory,  and  could  have  got  hides  in  abundance,  had  they  not 
been  too  bulky  a  commodity  to  bear  the  expense  of  convey  ance. 
F 


62  EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES. 

Buckar  Sano  undertook  to  introduce  the  English  at  the 
court  of  Tenda.  On  reaching  the  king's  presence,  they 
witnessed  an  example  of  the  debasing  homage  usually  paid 
to  negro  princes,  and  of  which  Clapperton,  in  Eyeo,  after- 
ward saw  several  striking  instances.  The  great  and  wealthy 
merchant,  on  appearing  in  the  presence  of  the  king,  first  fel! 
on  his  knees,  then  throwing  off  his  shirt,  extended  himself 
naked  and  flat  on  the  ground,  while  his  attendants  almost 
buried  him  beneath  dust  and  mud.  After  grovelling  for 
some  time  in  this  prone  position,  he  started  up,  shook  off  the 
earth,  which  two  of  his  wives  assisted  in  clearing  from  his 
person,  and  he  was  then  speedily  equipped  in  his  best  attire, 
with  bow  and  quiver.  He  and  his  attendants,  after  having 
made  a  semblance  of  shooting  at  Jobson,  laid  their  bows  at 
his  feet,  which  was  understood  as  a  token  of  homage  ;  the 
king  even  assured  the  English  captain  that  the  country  and 
every  thing  in  it  were  thus  placed  at  his  disposal.  In  returri 
for  gifts  so  magnificent,  it  was  impossible  to  refuse  a  few 
bottles  of  excellent  brandy  ;  the  value  of  which,  however, 
Jobson  never  expected  to  realize  from  these  regal  dona- 
tions. 

The  English  commander  soon  found  himself  in  the  middle 
of  the  dry  season,  and  the  river  sinking  lower  and  lower ; 
yet  he  still  made  a  hard  struggle  to  ascend,  animated  by  the 
deceitful  or  inflated  reports  of  Buckar  Sano  concerning  the 
city  of  gold.  At  the  distance  of  a  few  days'  journey  he  heard 
of  Tombaconda,  which  he  conjectured  to  be  Timbuctoo. 
The  conclusion  was  most  erroneous,  that  city  being  distant 
nearly  a  thousand  miles  ;  but  Europeans  had  formed  as  yet 
no  adequate  idea  of  the  dimensions  of  Africa.  At  length 
the  stream  became  so  shallow  that  Jobson  found  it  in  vain 
to  attempt  ascending  higher.  He  began  his  voyage  down- 
ward on  the  10th  February,  proposing  to  make  a  fresh 
attempt  during  the  season  when  the  periodical  rains  should 
have  filled  the  channel.  This  purpose  was  never  executed. 
Both  he  and  the  company  became  involved  in  quarrels  with 
the  merchants,  against  whom  he  bitterly  inveighs  as  persons 
who  entirely  disregarded  every  object  beyond  their  own  im- 
mediate profit. 

Jobson  earlier,  perhaps,  than  any  other  Englishman,  had 
an  opportunity  of  observing  the  manners  and  superstition* 
wliich  are  peculiar  to  native  Africa.     He  found  each  princ* 


Group  of  Figures— Chief,  Jillcmcn  or  Native  Musicians,  and 
Groegrcc  Man  or  Magician.— f p.  03.] 


EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES.  63 

or  chief  attended  by  bands  of  musical  bards,  whom  he  digni- 
fies with  the  title  of  "juddies  or  fiddlers,"  and  compares 
them  to  the  Irish  rhymesters.  These  are  called,  as  we 
learn  from  other  authors,  Jelle,  or  Jillemen,  and  perform  on 
several  instruments  rudely  formed  of  wood,  making  a  very 
loud  noise.  These  minstrels,  with  the  Greegree  men,  or 
magicians,  most  fantastically  attired,  often  form  singular 
groups,  as  exhibited  in  the  accompanying  plate.  The  two 
chief  festivals  were  those  of  circumcision  and  of  funeral.  The 
former,  performed  in  a  very  rouoh  manner,  attracted  the 
whole  country ;  the  forest  blazed  with  fires,  while  loud 
music,  shouts,  and  dancing  resounded  throughout  the  night. 
At  the  funeral  of  chiefs  there  was  much  crying  and  lament- 
ation, conducted  in  a  somewhat  mechanical  manner,  which 
reminded  him  of  the  Irish  howl.  Flowers  of  the  sweetest 
scent  were  buried  along  with  the  deceased,  and  much  gold 
was  deposited  for  his  ser\'ice  in  the  other  world  ;  but  there 
is  no  mention  of  those  human  sacrifices  which  form  so  foul 
a  blot  on  some  of  the  most  civilized  African  nations.  At  all 
festivals  a  conspicuous  place  was  acted  by  a  personage 
called  Horey,  which  name  our  author  interprets  "  the  Devil.'* 
This  being  took  his  station  in  the  adjoining  woods,  whence 
he  sent  forth  tremendous  sounds,  supposed  to  be  of  sinister 
portent  to  all  within  hearing.  The  only  remedy  was  to  de- 
posite,  as  near  to  the  spot  as  any  one  would  venture,  a  large 
supply  of  "  belly-timber,"  the  speedy  disappearance  of  which 
authenticated  to  the  villagers  both  the  existence  of  this  su- 
pernatural being  and  the  fact  of  his  having  been  appeased. 
To  Jobson,  on  the  contrary,  this  very  circumstance,  com- 
bined with  the  severe  hoarseness  with  which  sundry  of  the 
natives  were  afflicted,  afforded  a  clew  to  the  origin  of  this 
extraordinary  roaring.  Of  this  he  had  soon  ocular  demon- 
stration. Happening,  in  company  with  a  marabout,  to  hear 
the  Horey  in  full  cry  from  a  neighbouring  thicket,  he  seized 
a  loaded  musket,  declaring  aloud  his  resolution  forthwith  to 
discharge  the  contents  at  his  infernal  majesty.  The  mara- 
bout implored  him  to  stop ;  the  tremendous  sound  was 
changed  into  a  low  and  fearful  tone ;  and  Jobson,  on  run- 
ning to  the  spot,  found  this  mighty  demon  in  the  shape  of  a 
huge  negro,  extended  on  the  ground  in  such  agonies  of  fear 
that  he  was  unable  even  to  ask  for  mercy. 

The  company,  amid  the  divisions  already  alluded  to,  do 


64.  EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES. 

not  appear  to  have  prosecuted  farther  their  designs  of  dis- 
covery. The  next  attempt  was  made  about  1 660  or  1 665,  by 
Vermuyden,  a  rich  merchant  on  the  Gambia,  who  fitted  out 
a  boat  well  stored  with  beef,  bacon,  biscuit,  rice,  strong  wa- 
ters, and  other  comfortable  supplies  ;  which,  however,  when 
he  arrived  at  the  flats  and  shallows,  were  found  materially 
to  impede  the  movement  of  the  vessel.  He  came  first  to  a 
wide  expanse  which  he  compares  to  Windermere  lake,  where 
the  only  difficulty  was  to  find  the  main  branch  amid  several 
that  opened  from  different  quarters.  "Up  the  buffing 
stream,"  says  he,  "  with  sad  labour  we  wrought ;"  and  when 
they  ascended  higher,  it  became  necessary  often  to  drag  the 
boat  over  the  flats  ;  for  which  purpose  they  were  frequently 
obliged  to  strip  naked  and  walk  through  the  water.  They 
were  rather  rudely  received  by  the  only  tenants  of  these 
upper  tracts,  the  crocodiles  and  river-horses,  "  ill  pleased  or 
unacquainted  with  any  companions  in  these  watery  regions." 
One  of  the  latter  struck  a  hole  in  the  boat  with  his  teeth,  an 
accident  which  proved  very  inconvenient,  from  the  absence 
of  any  one  skilled  in  carpentry ;  but  by  hanging  a  lantern 
at  the  stem,  they  induced  these  monsters,  which  are  afraid 
of  light  shining  in  the  dark,  to  maintain  a  respectful  dis- 
tance. On  landing  to  search,  for  gold,  they  were  assailed 
by  an  incredible  number  of  huge  baboons,  on  which  it  is 
complained  that  no  oratory  except  guns  could  produce  any 
impression  ;  and  even  after  two  or  three  of  them  had  been 
killed,  they  attacked  with  increased  and  alarming  fury,  till 
successive  discharges  at  length  compelled  them  to  retreat. 
The  sole  object  in  this  voyage  was  the  discovery  of  gold. 
The  adventurer  landed  at  various  points,  washed  the  sand, 
and  examined  the  rocks.  He  had  carried  out  not  only  mer- 
cury, aqua  rcgia,  and  large  melting  pots,  but  also  a  divining 
rod,  which  was  not  found  to  exhibit  any  virtue  ;  however, 
on  being  laughed  at  by  his  companions  for  his  delusive  ex- 
pectations from  it,  he  persuaded  himself  that  this  potent  in- 
strument had  lost  its  qualities  by  being  dried  up  during  the 
voyage  from  England.  On  one  occasion  he  found  a  large 
mass  of  apparent  gold,  which  proved  to  be  mere  spar.  The 
real  metal,  he  observes,  is  never  found  in  low,  fertile,  and 
woody  spots,  but  always  on  naked  and  barren  hills,  imbedded 
in  a  reddish  earth.  At  one  place,  by  twenty  days'  labour, 
he  succeeded  in  extracting  twelve  pounds.    At  length  he 


EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES.  65 

declares,  tlyit  he  arrived  "  at  the  mouth  of  the  mine  itself, 
and  saw  gold  in  such  abundance  as  surprised  him  with  joy 
and  admiration."  However,  he  gives  no  notice  of  the  posi- 
tion of  this  famous  mine,  the  existence  of  which  has  not 
been  confirmed  by  any  subsequent  observer. 

It  was  not  till  1720  that  the  spirit  of  African  discovery 
again  revived  in  England.  The  Duke  of  Chandos,  then 
director  of  the  African  Company,  concerned  at  the  declining 
state  of  their  affairs,  entertained  the  idea  of  retrieving  them 
by  opening  a  path  into  the  golden  regions  still  reported  to 
exist  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  At  his  suggestion,  the  com- 
pany, in  1723,  furnished  Captain  Bartholomew  Stibbs  with 
the  usual  means  for  sailing  up  the  Gambia.  On  the  7th 
October  this  navigator  arrived  at  James  Island,  the  English 
settlement,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
whence  he  immediately  wrote  to  Mr.  Willy,  the  governor, 
who  happened  to  be  then  visiting  the  factory  of  Joar,  more 
than  a  hundred  miles  distant,  asking  him  to  engage  canoes. 
He  received  for  answer  that  there  were  none  to  be  had,  and 
was  almost  distracted  to  learn  that  Mr.  Willy  was  giving 
himself  no  concern  aI)out  the  affair.  Some  days  after,  how- 
ever, a  boat  brought  down  the  dead  body  of  the  governor, 
who  had  fallen  a  victim  to  the  fever  of  the  climate,  which 
had  previously  affected  his  brain.  Thus,  notwithstanding 
every  exertion  of  Orfeur,  who  succeeded  him,  the  equip- 
ment of  the  boats  was  delayed  till  the  11th  December,  when 
the  unfavourable  season  was  fast  approaching.  Stibbs  had 
assigned  to  him  a  crew  of  nineteen  white  men,  of  whom  one 
indeed  was  as  black  as  coal,  but  being  a  Christian,  ranked 
as  white,  and  served  as  interpreter ;  likewise  twenty-nine 
grumettas,  or  hired  negroes,  with  three  female  cooks  ;  and 
he  afterward  took  on  board  a  balafeu,  or  native  musician,  to 
enliven  the  spirits  of  the  party. 

Stibbs  set  out  on  the  26th  of  December,  and  the  voyage 
proceeded  for  some  time  very  agreeably.  The  English  were 
every  where  well  received,  and  at  one  place  even  a  saphie, 
or  charm,  had  been  laid  upon  the  bank  for  the  purpose  of 
drawing  them  on  shore.  The  captain  had  endeavoured  to 
conceal  his  object,  but  in  vain ;  he  found  himself  every 
where  pointed  out  as  the  person  Avho  was  come  to  bring 
down  the  gold.  The  native  crew,  however,  predicted  the 
©ost  feiuf ul  disaster  if  he  should  attempt  to  proceed  abov» 
F2 


(jQ  EARLY  ENGLISH  DISCOVERIES. 

the  falls  of  Barraconda.  As  the  boats  approached  that  fatal 
bouiulary,  the  Africans  came  in  a  body,  and  stated  their 
iirm  determination  on  no  account  to  proceed  any  farther. 
No  one,  they  said,  had  ever  gone  beyond  Barraconda, — 
Barraconda  was  the  end  of  the  world, — or  if  there  existed 
any  thing  beyond,  it  was  a  frightful  and  barbarous  region 
where  life  would  be  in  continual  danger.  A  long  palaver 
and  a  bottle  of  Stibbs's  very  best  brandy  were  necessary  ere 
they  would  agree  to  accompany  him  beyond  this  dreaded 
boundary  of  the  habitable  universe. 

The  falls  of  Barraconda  were  not  found  so  formidable  as 
rumour  had  represented  ;  they  were  narrows  rather  than 
falls,  the  channel  being  confined  by  rocky  ledges  and  frag- 
ments, between  which  there  was  only  one  passage,  where 
the  canoes  rubbed  against  the  rock  on  each  side.  In  this 
region  of  the  Upper  Gambia,  the  natives,  belying  all  slan- 
derous rumours,  proved  to  be  a  harmless,  good-humoured 
people,  who,  wherever  the  crew  landed,  met  them  with  pre- 
sents of  fowls  and  provisions. 

Tlie  severest  exertion  now  became  necessary  in  order  to 
pass'the  flats  and  quicksands,  which  multiplied  in  proportion 
as  they  ascended,  and  over  which  the  boats  in  some  instances 
could  only  be  dragged  by  main  force.  The  wild  and  huge 
animals  that  occupy  these  regions  appeared  still  more  dan- 
gerous to  the  present  adventurers  than  to  their  predecessors. 
The  elephants,  which  had  fled  precipitately  before  Jobson, 
struck  the  greatest  terror  into  this  party  ;  one  of  them  on  a 
certain  occasion  putting  to  flight  the  whole  crew.  They 
were  even  seen  in  bands  crossing  from  one  side  of  the  water 
to  the  other.  The  river-horses  also  presented  themselves 
every  where  in  numerous  herds  ;  and  though  this  animal 
generally  moved  in  a  sluggish  and  harmless  manner,  yet  in 
the  shallow  places,  when  walking  along  the  bottom  of  the 
river,  he  occasionally  came  into  collision  with  the  boat ;  in- 
censed at  which,  he  was  apt  to  strike  a  hole  through  it  with 
his  huge  teeth,  so  as  to  endanger  its  sinking.  If  the  cou- 
rage of  the  crew  against  these  mighty  animals  was  not  very 
conspicuous,  their  exertions  in  dragging  the  boat  over  the 
flats  and  shallows  appear  to  have  been  most  strenuous  ;  yet 
so  extremely  unfavourable  was  the  season,  that  at  the  end 
of  two  months  Stibbs  found  himself,  on  the  22d  February, 
when  he  had  reached  fifty-nine  miles  above  Barraconda, 


FRENCH  DISCOVERIES.  B? 

obliged  to  stop  short  even  of  Tenda,  and  consequently  of  the 
point  to  which  Jobson  had  formerly  attained. 

The  commander,  on  his  return,  after  making  every  allov^r- 
ance  for  the  inauspicious  season  and  circumstances,  could 
not  forbear  expressing  deep  disappointment  in  regard  to  the 
expectations  with  which  he  had  ascended  the  Gambia.  He 
saw  no  appearance  of  that  mighty  channel  which  was  to 
lead  into  the  remote  interior  of  Africa,  and  through  so  many 
great  kingdoms.  He  declared  his  conviction  that  "  its  ori- 
ginal or  head  is  nothing  near  so  far  in  the  country  as  by  the 
geographers  has  been  represented."  It  did  not  of  course 
appear  to  him  to  answer  in  any  respect  the  descriptions 
given  of  the  Niger, — it  nowhere  bore  that  name — it  did  not 
come  out  of  any  lake  that  he  could  hear  of — it  had  no 
communication  with  the  Senegal  or  any  other  great  river. 
The  natives  reported  that  at  twelve  days'  journey  above 
Barraconda  it  dwindled  into  a  rivulet,  and  "  fowls  walked 
over  i(."  These  statements  were  received  most  reluctantly 
and  skeptically  by  Moore,  now  the  company's  factor  on  the 
Gambia,  and  a  man  of  spirit  and  intelligence.  He  had  even 
acquired  some  learning  on  the  subject,  and  endeavoured  to 
overwhelm  Stibbs  with  quotations  from  Herodotus,  Leo, 
Edrisi,  and  other  high  authorities.  The  mariner,  though 
quite  unable  to  cope  with  him  in  this  field  of  discussion,  did 
not  the  less  steadily  assert  the  plain  facts  which  he  had  seen 
with  his  evni  eyes ;  and  a  degree  of  discouragement  was 
felt,  which  prevented  any  other  exploratory  voyage  from 
being  undertaken  for  a  considerable  time  into  that  part  of 
the  African  continent. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

French  Discoveries. 


France  did  not  embark  so  early  as  some  of  the  other 
powers  in  African  discovery.  Louis  XIV.,  aided  by  his 
minister  Colbert,  was  the  first  prince  who  studied  to  raise 
his  kingdom  to  a  high  rank  as  a  commercial  and  maritime 


68  FRENCH  DISCOVERIES* 

power.  But,  unfortunately,  according  to  the  spirit  of  tlw 
time,  the  only  mode  in  which  he  ever  thought  of  promoting 
any  branch  of  trade,  was  by  vesting  it  in  an  exclusive  com- 
pany ;  and  when,  according  to  the  usual  fate  of  such  asso- 
ciations, one  was  involved  in  bankruptcy,  another  immedi- 
ately supplied  its  place.  Thus  four  successive  companies 
rose  and  fell,  till  at  length  they  all  merged  in  that  greatest 
and  most  fatal  delusion,  the  Mississippi  scheme.  However, 
these  copartneries,  at  their  first  formation,  attracted  many 
individuals  of  opulence  and  talent,  and  generjilly  opened 
with  a  spirited  career  of  enterprise  and  discovery.  While 
the  English  sought  to  ascend  the  Gambia,  the  Senegal  was 
the  Niger  to  the  French — the  stream  by  which  they  hoped 
to  penetrate  upwards  to  Timbuctoo  and  the  regions  of  gold. 
At  the  mouth  of  this  river,  about  the  year  1G26,  was  founded 
the  settlement  of  St.  Louis,  which  has  ever  since  continued 
to  be  the  capital  of  the  French  possessions  in  Africa. 

The  first  person  who  brought  home  any  accounts  of 
French  Africa  was  Jannequin,  a  young  man  of  some  rank, 
who,  seeing,  as  he  walked  along  the  quay  at  Dieppe,  a  vessel 
bound  for  this  unknown  continent,  took  a  sudden  fancy  to 
embark  and  make  the  voyage.  The  adventurers  sailed  on 
the  5th  November,  1637,  and  touched  at  the  Canaries  ;  but 
the  first  spot  on  the  continent  where  they  landed  was  a  part 
of  the  Sahara,  near  Cape  Blanco.  Jannequin  was  struck, 
in  an  extraordinary  degree,  with  the  desolate  aspect  of  this 
region.  It  consisted  wholly  of  a  plain  of  soft  sand,  in  which 
the  feet  were  buried  at  every  step  ;  and  a  man,  after  walk- 
ing fifty  paces,  was  overwhelmed  with  fatigue.  At  Senegal 
the  colony  was  found  in  so  imperfect  a  state  that  the  sailors 
were  obliged  to  rear  huts  for  their  own  accommodation ;  and, 
shght  as  these  were,  the  labour  under  a  burning  sun  was 
very  severe.  In  ascending  the  river,  however,  he  was  de- 
lighted with  the  brilliant  verdure  of  the  banks,  the  majestic 
beauty  of  the  trees,  and  the  thick  impenetrable  underwood. 
Amid  the  deep  solitude  which  distinguished  the  country,  all 
the  forests  were  filled  with  echoes.  The  natives  received 
him  hospitably,  and  lie  was  much  struck  by  their  individual 
strength  and  courage,  decidedly  surpassing,  as  appeared  to 
him,  the  similar  (puilities  in  Europeans.  He  saw  a  Moorish 
chief,  called  the  Kamalingo,  who,  mounting  on  horseback, 
and  brandisliing  three  javelins  and  a  cutlass,  engaged  a  lior> 


FRENCH  DISCOVERIES.  69 

in  single  combat,  and  vanquished  that  mighty  king  of  the 
desert.  Fiat  noses  and  thick  lips,  so  remote  from  his  own 
ideas  of  the  beautiful,  were  con  iered  on  the  Senegal  as 
forming  the  perfection  of  the  haman  visage  ;  nay,  he  even 
fancies  that  they  v^ere  produced  by  artificial  processes.  He 
was  surprised  by  the  enormous  number  of  greegrees,  or 
charms,  in  which  the  chiefs  were  enveloped.  All  the  perils, 
of  water,  of  wild  beasts,  and  of  battle,  had  an  appropriate 
charm,  by  which  the  owner  was  secured  against  them. 
These  potent  greegrees  were  merely  slips  of  paper,  which 
the  marabouts,  or  Mussulman  doctors,  had  inscribed  with 
Arabic  characters ;  and  being  then  enclosed  in  cases  of  thick 
cloth,  or  even  of  gold  and  silver,  were  hung  round  the  per- 
son in  such  profusion  that  they  actually  formed  a  species  of 
armour.  In  some  instances  they  composed  such  a  load  that 
the  possessor.was  unable  to  mount  on  horseback  without  as- 
sistance. 

The  Sieur  Brue,  who,  in  1697,  was  appointed  director- 
general  of  the  company's  affairs,  was  the  person  who  did 
most  for  their  prosperity,  and  made  the  greatest  efforts  to 
penetrate  into  the  interior.  In  that  year  he  embarked  on  a 
visit  to  the  Siratik,  or  king  of  the  Foulahs,  whose  territory 
lay  about  400  miles  up  the  Senegal.  In  ascending  that 
river  he  was  struck,  like  Jannequin,  by  the  magnificent 
forests,  and  the  profuse  and  luxuriant  verdure  with  which 
whey  were  clothed ;  while  it  was  amusing  to  obser\'e  the 
numberless  varieties  of  the  monkey  tribe,  which  were  conti- 
nually leaping  from  bough  to  bough.  Elephants  marched 
in  bands  of  forty  or  fifty ;  and  large  herds  of  cattle  fed  on 
the  rich  meadows,  though,  during  the  season  of  inundation, 
they  withdrew  to  the  more  elevated  spots.  At  Kahayde,  he 
was  received  by  a  chief  belonging  to  the  Siratik,  accom- 
panied by  numerous  attendants,  among  whom  were  his  wife, 
daughters,  and  some  female  slaves,  all  mounted  upon  asses. 
He  was  cordially  welcomed  ;  yet  the  reflection  suggested  by 
his  dealings  with  this  gay  and  fair  train  was,  that  European 
beggars,  however  great  their  effrontery,  might  learn  much 
from  the  example  of  the  liigher  circles  in  Africa.  When 
they  can  no  longer  ask,  they  begin  to  borrow,  with  the  firm 
resolution  of  never  repaying ;  and,  what  is  worst  of  all, 
when  they  make  a  present,  they  hold  it  a  deadly  offence 
not  to  receive  at  least  double  the  value  in  return. 


70  FRENCH  DISCOVERIES. 

Brae  sailed  up  the  river,  and  landed  at  the'  port  of 
Gliiorel ;  then,  with  a  party  of  armed  attendants,  set  out  foi 
Gumel,  about  ten  leagues  in  the  interior,  where  the  Siratik 
resided.  At  Ghiorel  he  was  visited  by  Bukar  Sir^,  one  of 
the  young  princes,  and  afterward  by  the  Kamalingo  or  ge- 
neral, and  the  Bouquenet,  a  venerable  and  aged  negro,  who 
filled  an  oflicc  similar  to  that  of  treasurer  or  prime  minister. 
These  two  latter  personages  assured  the  director  of  the 
hearty  welcome  which  awaited  him  at  court ;  intimating, 
at  the  same  time,  their  readiness  to  receive  the  presents 
which  he  was  understood  to  have  brought  to  the  Siratik. 
These  accordingly  were  spread  forth,  and  consisted  of  scar- 
let cloths,  coloured  worsteds,  copper  kettles,  pieces  of  coral 
and  amber,  brandy,  spices,  and  a  few  coins,  in  portions  re- 
spectively destined  for  the  king,  his  wives,  and  the  illus- 
trious messengers ;  yet  these  liberal  gifts,  though  they 
amply  satisfied  the  great  personages  who  received  them, 
did  not  drain  the  finances  of  the  company,  since  the  entire 
cost  did  not  exceed  sixty  or  seventy  pounds.  The  country 
was  found  level,  well  cultivated,  and  filled  with  such  nu- 
merous herds  that  the  French  with  diflficulty  made  their 
way  through  them.  At  a  village  called  Buksar,  the  Sir6 
and  his  attendants  again  met  them,  brandishing  their  lances 
or  assagayes,  as  if  in  the  act  to  strike.  This  being  ex- 
plained as  meant  for  the  greatest  possible  compliment, 
Brue,  in  return,  cocked  his  pistol  at  the  young  prince,  with 
whom  he  then  spent  the  evening.  After  being  introduced 
to  several  ladies  of  the  court,  he  was  entertained  with  sup- 
per, consisting  of  fraits,  kouskous,  and  other  simple  pro- 
ducts of  African  cooker}'.  Then  followed  the  folgar  or 
dance,  the  favourite  amusement  of  the  negroes;  but  while 
all  the  youth  of  the  village  were  tripping  it  gayly  upon  the 
green,  amid  songs  and  music,  he  found  more  gratification  in 
the  kaldcr,  or  conversation  carried  on  by  the  old  men  seated 
on  mats  in  a  circle.  Their  manners  were  noble  and  digni- 
fied ;  they  showed  retentive  memories  and  quick  apprehen- 
sions respecting  the  objects  which  came  within  their  limited 
range  of  observation. 

He  set  out  next  morning  for  the  residence  of  the  Si» 
ratik,  being  met  and  escorted  thither  by  the  Kamalingo. 
He  found  that  prince  surrounded  by  none  of  those  circum- 
ftances  which  constitute  in  Europe  the  pomp  of  royalty. 


FRENCH  DISCOVERIES.  71 

His  palace  was  merely  a  clusier  of  mud  cabins  surrounded 
by  a  hedge  of  reeds.  In  one  of  these  huts  he  reclined  on  a 
couch,  while  several  of  his  wives  and  daughters  sat  round 
him  on  mats  spread  on  the  ground.  The  reception  was 
perfectly  friendly,  and  Brue  even  obtained  permission  to 
erect  forts, — a  privilege  of  which  African  princes  are  usually 
and  indeed  naturally  jealous.  The  director  was  allowed 
full  liberty  to  converse  with  the  female  circle,  who  were  by 
no  means  held  in  that  state  of  austere  seclusion  which  gives 
such  a  gloom  to  Mussulman  society.  The  ladies  began  to 
talk  in  the  most  lively  and  familiar  manner ;  and  as  Brue 
was  thought  to  eye  with  admiration  a  handsome  young 
prmcess  of  seventeen,  she  was  tendered  to  him  in  marriage. 
He  excused  himself  as  one  already  joined  in  the  bonds  of 
matrimony ;  but  the  ladies  professed  themselves  quite  un- 
able to  conceive  how  this  could  form  an  objection,  their 
young  relative  being  of  course  prepared  to  share  the  honour 
with  any  reasonable  number  of  rivals.  It  then  behooved  the 
director  to  explain  the  matrimonial  system  of  Europe,  which 
furnished,  as  it  always  does  in  Africa,  ample  ground  for 
wonder  and  speculation.  The  lot  of  the  French  ladies  was 
pronounced  to  be  truly  enviable  ;  but  Brue's  own  situation 
was  much  commiserated,  especially  in  his  present  state  of 
separation  from  his  only  wife. 

The  court  being  obliged  to  remove  by  the  annoyance 
arising  from  a  species  of  flying  insect,  Brue  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  observing  the  royal  procession  travelling  in  order. 
First  came  a  numerous  body  of  mounted  musicians,  who, 
performing  on  various  instruments,  produced  a  noise  at 
once  deafening  and  discordant.  Next  followed  the  royal 
ladies,  mounted  on  the  backs  of  camels  in  large  osier 
baskets,  which  so  completely  enveloped  their  persons  that 
their  heads  only  were  seen  peeping  above.  Their  female 
domestics,  riding  by  their  side  on  asses,  endeavoured  to  en- 
liven them  by  incessant  talk.  The  baggage  behind  was 
borne  by  a  long  train  of  camels  and  asses ;  while  horsemen, 
in  military  amy,  with  the  king  and  his  principal  nobles  at 
their  head,  closed  the  procession.  The  director  and  his 
party,  while  all  this  gay  train  passed  by,  exchanged  with 
them  mutual  courtesies  and  salutations.  Having  satisfac- 
torily accomplished  the  immediate  object  of  his  journey, 
Brue  returned  to  St.  Louis. 


72  FRENCH   DISCOVERIES. 

In  1698,  the  same  gentleman  undertook  another  voyage, 
in  which  he  aimed  not  merely  at  the  limited  objects  above 
stated,  but  sought  to  ascend  the  Senegal  as  high  as  possible, 
and  to  open  a  commercial  intercourse  with  the  interior.  In 
this  voyage  he  had  gained  an  amicable  interview  with  the 
Siratik,  and  employed  four  of  his  negroes  in  destroying  an 
enonnous  lion  which  had  infested  the  neighbourhood.  Far- 
ther on  he  observed  some  peculiar  forms  of  the  animal  crea- 
tion. The  air  for  two  hours  was  darkened  by  the  passage 
of  a  cloud  of  locusts,  and  the  boats  were  covered  with  their 
filth.  Lions  and  elephants  roamed  in  vast  numbers ;  but 
the  latter  were  quite  tame  and  harmless  unless  when  at- 
tacked. Monkeys  swanned  in  their  usual  multitudes  ;  and 
in  one  place  there  was  a  species  of  a  red  colour,  which  ap- 
peared extremely  surprised  at  the  view  of  the  strangers,  and 
used  to  come  in  successive  parties  to  gaze  at  them ;  on 
which  occasion  they  conversed  with  each  other,  and  even 
threw  down  dry  branches  upon  the  boats.  The  French,  we 
know  not  why,  fired  and  killed  several ;  upon  which  they 
raised  an  extraordinary  commotion,  and  sought,  by  throw- 
ing stones  and  sticks,  to  avenge  the  fall  of  their  comrades ; 
but,  soon  finding  the  contest  unequal,  they  retired  for  safety 
into  the  woods.  The  navigators  were  also  introduced  to  a 
personage  called  "The  King  of  the  Bees,"  who,  by  the  use 
of  a  particular  charm,  came  to  the  boat  surrounded  by  thou- 
sands of  these  insect*,  over  which  he  exercised  an  absolute 
sway,  guiding  them  as  a  shepherd  docs  his  sheep,  and  com- 
pletely securing  all  his  friends  against  their  formidable 
stings. 

On  reaching  Gallam,  Brue  found  himsetf  in  a  somewhat 
delicate  position.  Two  rival  princes  disputed  the  throne, 
each  holding,  at  his  respective  residence,  a  certain  sway ; 
but  each  also  claiming  for  himself  the  entire  homage,  and 
all  the  presents  brought  by  the  director.  The  legitimate 
prince,  in  particular,  sent  his  son  to  remonstrate  that  his  un- 
doubted claim  ought  not  to  be  set  aside  for  that  of  an  ephe- 
meral usurper.  The  European,  however,  acting  steadily  on 
the  principle  of  self-interest,  endeavoured  to  ascertain  which 
of  the  two  sovereigns  could  most  benefit  the  company; 
and,  finding  the  real  power  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  rebel, 
bestowed  on  him  the  larger  portion  of  good  things.  The 
ether  party  was  thereby  so  incensed  that  he  even  threatened 


FRENCH   DISCOVERIES.  73 

an  attack ;  but  the  determined  language  of  Brue,  and  the 
sight  of  the  great  guns  which  the  French  had  on  board, 
made  him  reUnquish  all  hostile  intentions. 

The  director  now  reached  Dramanet,  a  thriving  town,  in- 
habited by  several  rich  merchants,  w^ho  traded  as  far  as  Tim- 
buctoo,  which,  according  to  their  computation,  was  live  hun- 
dred leagues  in  the  interior.  This  position  was  therefore 
thought  the  most  convenient  place  for  a  fort,  which  was 
called  St.  Joseph,  and  continued  long  to  be  the  principal  seat 
of  French  commerce  on  the  Upper  Senegal.  Brue  then 
went  up  to  Felu,  where  a  large  rock,  crossing  the  river, 
forms  a  cataract,  which  it  is  almost  impossible  for  vessels  to 
pass.  Quitting  his  boats,  he  proposed  to  ascend  to  the  falls 
of  Govinea,  about  forty  leagues  higher  ;  but  the  water  was 
getting  so  low,  that,  fearing  the  navigation  downward  should 
be  interrupted,  he  returned  to  St.  Louis. 

Brue,  in  reply  to  numerous  inquiries  made  by  him  on  this 
journey,  received  accounts  of  the  kingdom  of  Bambarra,  of 
:he  Lake  Maberia  (Dibbie  of  Park),  of  Timbuctoo,  of  the 
caravans  which  came  thither  from  Barbarj',  and  even  of 
•nasted  vessels  which  were  seen  on  the  waters  beyond.  But 
the  grand  object  of  his  research  was  the  course  of  the  Ni- 
ger, concerning  which  he  received  two  quite  opposite  an- 
Kwers.  According  to  some  it  flowed  westward  from  the  Lake 
Maberia,  till  it  separated  into  the  two  channels  of  the  Gam- 
bia and  Senegal ;  but  other  and  juster  reports  represented 
it  as  being  distinct  from  both  these  rivers,  and  as  passing 
eastward,  beyond  Timbuctoo.  The  testimonies  transmitted 
to  France  in  favour  of  this  last  opinion  must  have  greatly 
preponderated,  since  both  the  great  geogra,phers,  Delille  and 
JD'Anville,  adopted  this  delineation ;  and  yet  the  popular 
ooinion  in  that  country,  as  well  as  through  Europe  in 
general,  long  continued  to  regard  the  Niger  and  Senegal  as 
one  and  the  same  river. 

Beyond  Gallam  lay  another  more  tempting  region,  Bam- 
bouk,  which  contains  mines  of  gold,  the  most  productive  of 
all  that  are  to  be  found  in  the  interior  of  Western  Africa, 
The  difficulty  of  penetrating  thither,  however,  was  extreme, 
the  natives  having  completely  barred  the  frontier  against 
white  men,  in  consequence  of  the  tyranny  exercised  by  the 
Portuguese,  who  had  ruled  and  oppressed  the  district  till 
Uiey  were  cut  off  or  expelled  by  a  general  insurrccuon. 
G 


74  FRENCH   DISCOVERIES. 

Many  adventurers,  after  being  induced  by  high  bribes  to  un- 
dertake the  journey,  successively  declined  the  enterprise. 
At  length  one  Compagnon,  laden  with  valuable  presents, 
ventured  to  pass  the  boundary,  and  by  his  address  succeeded 
in  conciliating  the  inhabitants  of  the  nearest  village.  A 
general  alarm,  however,  spread  through  the  country,  when 
It  was  known  that  there  was  a  white  man  within  its  pre- 
cincts ;  and  representations  were  sent,  that,  according  to 
the  ancient  salutary  laws,  he  should  forthwith  be  put  to 
death; — ^yet  Compagnon,  by  presents  and  address,  suc- 
ceeded in  making  his  way  from  village  to  village.  He  con- 
trived to  visit  the  principal  districts,  and  even  to  carry  off  a 
portion  of  the  ghingan,  or  golden  earth,  which  forms  the 
pride  and  wealth  of  Bambouk.  Brue  then  transmitted  to 
France  various  projects,  and  among  others  that  of  conquer- 
ing the  country,  which  he  undertook  to  effect  with  1200 
men ;  but  such  a  degree  of  apathy  prevailed  at  home,  that 
none  of  these  propositions  made  any  impression.  Subse- 
quent governors,  however,  directed  their  attention  to  the 
same  subject :  two  of  them,  Levens  and  David,  even  visited 
Bambouk  in  person ;  but  no  attempt  was  ultimately  made 
either  to  conquer  or  to  form  settlements  in  that  part  of  Africa. 
Indeed,  though  cither  step  might  have  been  successful  in  the 
first  instance,  the  possession  of  such  a  territory  would  in  the 
end  have  proved  both  costly  and  precarious. 

From  the  accounts  thus  received,  and  which  have  been 
collected  by  Mr.  Golberry,  Bambouk  appears  to  consist  of  a 
mass  of  lofty,  naked,  and  barren  mountains,  and  to  contain 
scarcely  any  treasures,  except  those  which  are  hid  in  the 
bowels  of  the  earth.  Besides,  it  is  in  the  most  arid  and 
dreary  spot  of  this  gloomy  region  that  the  gold  is  found. 
Several  hills  in  different  quarters,  not  very  high,  but  of  con- 
siderable extent,  have  the  same  metallic  substance  distri- 
buted throughout,  under  the  form  of  grains,  spangles,  and 
even  of  small  lumps,  which  are  always  found  larger  in  pro- 
portion to  the  depth  of  the  bed.  In  the  mine  of  Natakon 
the  ore  is  mixed  with  earth,  from  which  the  precious  dust  is 
extracted  by  continued  agitation  in  water ;  or  it  adheres  to 
fragments  of  iron,  emery,  and  lapis  lazuli,  whence  it  is 
easily  detached.  In  the  mine  of  Semayla,  on  the  contrary, 
it  is  imbedded  in  a  hard  reddish  loam,  mixed  with  other  sub- 
etances  still  harder,  from  which  it  can  be  extracted  only  by 


FRENCH  DISCOVERIES.  73 

reducing  them  all  to  a  powder.  This  is  effected  by  pound- 
ing them  with  a  pestle  of  hard  wood,  which  is  soon  worn 
away  by  the  resistance  of  the  mineral  substances.  This 
mine,  therefore,  though  richer  than  the  other,  is  less  valuable. 
The  Farima,  who  are  absolute  chiefs  of  Bambouk,  allow  the 
mining  operations  only  at  certain  seasons,  when  they  them- 
selves attend  to  levy  a  proportion  of  the  proceeds.  Two 
men,  or  two  women, — for  they  are  promiscuously  employed 
in  this  occupation,— dig  out  the  earth  or  other  substances, 
which  they  hand  to  those  who  are  to  extract  from  it  the 
gold.  This  metal  they  imagine  to  be  a  capricious  being  de- 
lighting to  sport  Avith  their  eager  pursuit ;  and  when  they 
find  a  rich  vein  suddenly  become  unproductive,  they  call  out 
"  He  is  off."  The  pit  which  is  six  feet  in  diameter,  is  dug 
to  the  depth  of  thirty  or  forty,  when  the  workers  are  usually 
arrested  by  an  impenetrable  bed  of  reddish-coloured  marble, 
which,  from  certain  indications,  Golberry  is  led  to  consider 
as  only  the  covering  of  much  more  abundant  veins.  These 
pits  or  shafts,  by  means  of  ladders,  are  carried  down  with 
perpendicular  sides,  which  often  fall  in  and  bury  the  unfor- 
tunate workmen.  This,  however,  does  not  at  all  discom- 
pose the  survivors.  They  apprehend  that  the  Devil,  or  ra- 
ther a  certain  subterranean  deity,  having  occasion  for  la- 
bourers to  conduct  his  own  operations  underneath,  seizes  in 
this  manner  the  best  miners  he  can  find  on  the  surface  of 
the  earth.  Nor  do  they  feel  the  least  surprise,  though  they 
cannot  conceal  their  regret,  when,  in  the  course  of  working, 
they  Ught  upon  the  skeletons  of  the  victims.  The  Devil, 
they  fancy,  has  then  found  himself  mistaken  in  his  choice, 
and  has  rudely  thrown  them  back  to  the  place  whence  he 
had  withdrawn  them. 

The  trade  to  Gallam  appears,  by  the  report  of  M.  Sau- 
gnier,  who  undertook  a  voyage  thither,  to  have  been  very 
profitable  when  carried  on  with  success.  Gold,  ivory,  and 
slaves  could  be  purchased  on  easy  terms  ;  and  the  natives, 
called  Serawoolies,  were  intelligent  and  active,  though  in- 
clined to  be  thievish.  The  voyage,  however,  is  Uable  to 
many  vicissitudes,  the  navigation  often  dangerous,  and  the 
natives  on  shore  perpetually  on  the  watch  for  plunder,  espe- 
cially the  princes  or  robbers  ;  which  terms  in  Africa  are 
nearly  synonymous.  The  French  government,  also,  had 
issued  instructions  not  to  proceed  to   great  extremities 


76  FRENCH   DISCOVERIES. 

against  these  high-born  pilferers  ;  and  hence  Saugnier  com- 
plains, that  though  he  had  at  one  time  eight  royal  person- 
ages on  board  of  his  vessel  as  prisoners,  he  durst  not  turn 
them  to  any  account.  In  this  way  the  adventure  was 
almost  as  likely  to  ruin  as  to  enrich  the  person  who  under- 
took it. 

The  chief  prosperity  of  the  French  settlements  on  the 
Senegal  was  derived  from  the  gum-trade,  of  which  Gol- 
berry  has  given  a  lively  description.  To  the  north  of  this 
river,  where  its  fertile  borders  pass  into  the  boundless  de- 
serts of  the  Sahara,  grow  large  forests  of  that  species  of 
acacia  from  which  the  gum  distils.  It  is  crooked  and 
stunted,  resembling  rather  a  bush  or  shrub  than  a  tree.  No 
incision  is  necessary  ;  for  imder  the  influence  of  the  hot 
winds  the  bark  dries  and  cracks  in  various  places.  The 
liquor  exudes,  but  by  its  tenacity  remains  attached  in  the 
form  of  drops,  which  are  as  clear  and  transparent  as  the 
finest  rock-crystal.  The  Moorish  tribes,  to  whom  these 
woods  belong,  break  up  about  the  beginning  of  December 
from  their  desert  encampments,  and  proceed  to  the  gum 
district  in  a  tumultuous  crowd ;  the  rich  mounted  on  horses 
and  camels,  while  the  poor  perform  the  journey  on  foot. 
Six  weeks  are  spent  in  collecting  the  material ;  after  which 
it  is  conveyed  to  the  great  annual  fair  held  on  the  banks  of 
the  Senegal.  The  scene  of  this  merchandise  is  an  im- 
mense plain  of  white  and  moving  sand,  the  desolate  mono- 
tony of  which  is  not  broken  by  a  single  herb  or  a  shrub. 
Here  the  French  take  their  stand  to  await  the  arrival  of  the 
Moors.  On  the  appointed  morning  they  hear  at  a  distance 
the  confused  noise  of  their  armies  in  motion.  Towards 
noon  this  vast  and  solitary  plain  appears  covered  with  men, 
women,  and  animals  innumerable,  enveloped  in  clouds  of 
dust.  The  chiefs  ride  beautiful  horses  ;  while  the  females 
of  rank  are  seated  on  the  backs  of  camels,  elegantly  capa- 
risoned, in  baskets  covered  with  an  awning.  An  incessant 
murmur  pervades  this  barbarous  assemblage,  till,  the  whole 
having  arrived,  the  camp  is  pitched,  and  a  cannon  fired  as  a 
signal  for  beginning  the  fair.  The  French  relate,  that 
every  species  of  artifice  and  even  threats  are  employed  by 
these  rude  traffickers  to  enhance  the  price  of  their  goods  ; 
yet  they  themselves,  it  would  appear,  have  little  right  to 
complain,  inasmuch  as  they  confess  that  they  have  insen- 


AFRICAN   ASSOCIATION.  77 

fibly,  and  without  attracting  the  notice  of  their  barbarous 
customers,  raised  the  kantary  by  which  the  gum  is  measured, 
from  five  hundred  to  two  thousand  pounds  weight. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Early  Proceedings  of  the  African  Aasociatton — Ledyard, 
Lucasy  Houghton. 

The  preceding  narrative  of  French  and  English  dis- 
coveries proves  the  imperfect  success  with  which  the  earher 
attempts  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  Africa,  though 
made  by  the  most  powerflil  nations  of  Europe,  were  at- 
tended. While  the  remotest  extremities  of  land  and  sea  in 
other  quarters  of  the  globe  had  been  reached  by  British  en- 
terprise, this  vast  region  remained  an  unseemly  blank  in  the 
map  of  t'ne  earth.  Such  a  ciicumstance  was  felt  as  dis- 
creditable to  a  great  maritime  and  commercial  nation,  as 
well  as  to  the  sciences  upon  which  the  extension  of  geogra- 
phical knowledge  depends.  To  remove  this  reproach,  a 
body  of  spirited  individuals  formed  themselves  into  what 
G2 


73  LEDYARD, 

was  tenned  the  African  Association.  They  subscribed  the 
necessary  funds,  and  sought  out  individuals  duly  qualified 
and  possessed  of  sufficient  courage  to  undertake  such  dis- 
tant and  adventurous  missions.  A  committee,  composed  of 
Lord  Ravfdon,  afterward  Marquis  of  Hastings,  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  the  Bishop  of  Landaff,  5lr.  Beaufoy,  and  Mr.  Stuart, 
were  nominated  managers.  It  seemed  scarcely  probable 
that  the  mere  olier  to  defray  travelling  expenses,  which  v 
all  the  society's  finances  could  aftbrd  should  induce  persons 
with  the  requisite  qualifications  to  engage  in  journeys  so 
long  and  beset  with  so  many  perils  ;  yet  such  is  the  native 
enterprise  of  Britons,  that  men  eminently  fitted  for  the  task 
presented  themselves,  even  in  greater  numbers  than  the 
society  could  receive. 

The  first  adventurer  was  Mr.  Ledyard,  who,  born  a  tra- 
veller, had  spent  his  life  in  passing  from  one  extremity  of  the 
earth  to  another.     He  had  sailed  round  the  world  with  Cap- 
tain Cook,  had  lived  for  several  years  among  the  American 
Indians,  and  had  made  a  journey  with  the  most  scanty 
means   from   Stockhohn  round  the  gulf  of  Bothnia,   and 
Ihence  to  the  remotest  parts  of  Asiatic  Russia.     On  his  re- 
turn he  presented  himself  to  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  to  whom  he 
owed  many  obligations,  just  as  that  eminent  person  was 
looking  out  for  an  African  discoverer.    He  immediately  pro- 
nounced Ledyard  to  be  the  very  man  he  wanted,  and  re- 
commended him  to  Mr.  Beaufoy,  who  was  struck  with  his 
fine  countenance,  frank  conversation,  and  an  eye  expressive 
of  determined  enterprise.     Ledyard  declared  this  scheme  to 
be  quite  in  unison  with  his  own  wishes  ;  and  on  being  asked 
how  soon  he  could  set  out,  replied,  "  To-morrow."     Affairs 
were  not  yet  quite  so  matured  ;  but  he  was  soon  after  pro- 
vided with  a  passage  to  Alexandria,  with  the  view  of  first 
proceeding  southward  from  Cairo  to  Sennaar,  and  thence 
traversing  the  entire  breadth  of  the  African  continent.     He 
arrived  at  Cairo  on  the  19th  August,  1788,  and  while  pre 
paring  for  his  journey  into  the  interior,  transmitted  some 
bold,  original,  though  somewhat  fanciful  observations  upon 
Egypt.     He  represents  the  Delta  as  an  unbounded  plain  of 
excellent  land  miserably  cultivated ;  the  villages  as  most 
wretched  assemblages  of  poor  mud-huts,  full  of  dust,  fleas, 
flies,  and  all  the  curses  of  Moses  ;  and  the  people  as  below 
the  rank  of  any  savages  he  ever  saw,  wearing  only  a  blue 


LUCAS.  79 

fiWrt  and  drawers,  and  tattooed  as  much  as  the  South  Sea 
islanders.  He  bids  his  correspondents,  if  they  wish  to  see 
Egyptian  women,  to  look  at  any  group  of  gipsies  beliind  a 
hedge  in  Essex.  The  Mohammedans  he  describes  as  a 
trading,  enterprising,  superstitious,  warlike  set  of  vaga- 
bonds, who,  wherever  they  are  bent  upon  going,  will  and 
do  go ;  but  he  complains  that  the  condition  of  a  Frank  is 
rendered  most  humiliating  and  distressing  by  the  furious 
bigotry  of  the  Turks.  It  seemed  inconceivable  that  such 
enmity  should  exist  among  men,  and  that  beings  of  the 
same  species  should  think  and  act  in  a  manner  so  opposite. 
By  conversing  with  the  jelabs,  or  slave-merchants,  he 
kameda  good  deal  respecting  the  caravan-routes  and  coun- 
tries of  the  interior.  Every  thing  seemed  ready  for  his 
departure,  and  he  announced  that  his  next  communication 
would  be  from  Sennaar ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  first 
tidings  received  were  those  of  his  death.  Some  delays  in 
the  departure  of  the  caravan,  working  upon  his  impatient 
spirit,  brought  on  a  bilious  complaint,  to  which  he  applied 
rash  and  violent  remedies,  and  thus  reduced  himself  to  a 
state  from  which  the  care  of  Rossetti,  the  Venetian  consul, 
and  the  skill  of  the  best  physicians  of  Cairo,  sought  in  vain 
to  deliver  him. 

The  society  had,  at  the  time  they  engaged  Ledyard,  en- 
tered into  terms  with  Mr.  Lucas,  a  gentleman  who,  being 
captured  in  his  youth  by  a  Sallee  rover,  had  been  three 
years  a  slave  at  the  court  of  Morocco,  and  after  his  deliver- 
ance had  been  employed  as  vice-consul  in  that  empire. 
Having  spent  sixteen  years  there,  he  had  acquired  an  inti- 
mate knowledge  of  Africa  and  its  languages.  He  was  sent, 
by  way  of  Tripoli,  with  instructions  to  accompany  the  ca- 
ravan, which  is  understood  to  take  the  most  direct  route  into 
the  interior  of  the  continent.  Being  provided  with  letters 
from  the  TripoUtan  ambassador,  he  obtained  the  bey's  per- 
mission, and  even  promises  of  assistance,  for  this  expedi- 
tion. At  the  same  time  he  made  an  arrangement  with  two 
Shereefs,  or  descendants  of  the  prophet,  under  which  cha- 
racter their  persons  are  sacred,  to  join  a  caravan  of  which 
they  intended  to  make  a  part.  He  proceeded  with  them  to 
Mesurata;  but  the  Arabs  in  the  neighbourhood,  being  in  a 
state  of  rebellion,  refused  to  furnish  camels  and  guides, 
which,  indeed,  could  scarcely  be  expected,  as  the  bey  had 


80  HOUGHTON. 

declined  to  grant  them  a  safe-conduct  through  his  territo- 
ries. Mr.  Lucas  was  therefore  obliged  to  return  to  Tripoli, 
■without  being  able  to  penetrate  farther  into  the  continent. 
He  learned,  however,  from  Imhammed,  one  of  the  Shereefs, 
who  had  been  an  extensive  traveller,  a  variety  of  particu- 
lars respecting  the  interior  regions.  The  society  had  at 
the  same  time  made  very  particular  inquiries  of  Ben  Ali,  a 
Morocco  caravan  trader,  who  happened  to  be  in  London. 
From  these  two  sources  Mr.  Beaufoy  was  enabled  to  drav\r 
up  a  view  of  Central  Africa ;  very  imperfect  indeed,  yet  su- 
perior to  any  that  had  ever  before  appeared. 

According  to  the  statements  thus  obtained,  Bomou  and 
Kashna  were  the  most  powerful  states  in  that  part  of  the 
continent,  and  formed  even  empires  holding  sway  over  a 
number  of  tributary  kingdoms  ; — a  statement  at  that  time 
correct,  though  aftairs  have  since  greatly  changed.  The 
Kashna  caravan  often  crossed  the  Niger,  and  went  onwards 
to  great  kingdoms  beyond  the  Gold  Coast,  Gongah  or 
Kong,  Asiente  or  Ashantee,  Yarba  or  Yarriba,  through 
which  last  Clapperton  recently  travelled.  Several  exten- 
sive routes  across  the  Desert  were  also  delineated.  In  re- 
gard to  the  Niger,  the  report  of  Imhammed  revived  the 
error  which  represented  that  river  as  flowing  westward  to- 
wards the  Atlantic.  The  reason  on  which  this  opinion 
was  founded  will  appear  when  we  observe,  that  it  was  in 
Kashna  that  Ben  Ali  considered  himself  as  having  crossed 
that  river.  His  Niger,  then,  was  the  Quarrama  or  river  of 
Zirmie,  which  flows  westward  through  Kashna  and  Sac- 
katoo,  and  is  only  a  tributary  to  the  Quorra  or  great  river, 
which  we  call  the  Niger.  He  describes  the  stream  as  very 
broad  and  rapid,  probably  from  having  seen  it  during  the 
rainy  season,  when  all  the  tropical  rivers  that  are  of  any 
magnitude  assume  an  imposing  appearance. 

Mr.  Lucas  made  no  farther  effort  to  penetrate  into  Africa. 
The  next  expedition  was  made  by  a  new  agent,  and  from 
a  different  quarter.  Major  Houghton,  who  had  resided  for 
some  time  as  consul  at  Morocco,  and  afterward  in  a  mili- 
tary capacity  at  Goree,  undertook  the  attempt  to  reach  the 
Niger  by  the  route  of  the  Gambia,  not,  like  Jobson  and 
Stibbs,  ascending  its  stream  in  boats,  but  travelling  singly 
and  by  land.  He  seems  to  have  been  endowed  with  a  gay, 
active,  and  sanguine  ^irit,  fitted  to  carry  him  through  the 


HOUGHTON.  81* 

boldest  undertakings,  but  without  that  cool  and  calculating 
temper  which  is  necessary  for  him  who  endeavours  to  mako 
his  way  amid  scenes  of  peril  and  treachery.  He  began  his 
journey  early  in  1791,  and  soon  reached  Medina,  the  ca- 
pital of  Woolli,  where  the  venerable  chief  received  him 
with  extreme  kindness,  promised  to  furnish  guides,  and  as- 
sured him  that  he  might  go  to  Tunbuctoo  with  his  staff  in 
his  hand.  The  only  evil  that  befell  him  at  Medina  arose 
from  a  fire  which  broke  out  there,  and  spreading  rapidly 
through  buildings  roofed  with  cane  and  matted  grass,  con- 
verted in  an  hour  a  town  of  a  thousand  houses  into  a  heap 
of  ashes.  Major  Houghton  ran  out  with  the  rest  of  the 
people  into  the  fields,  saving  only  such  few  articles  as  could 
be  carried  with  him.  He  writes,  that  by  trading  at  Fatta- 
tenda  a  man  may  make  800  per  cent.,  and  may  live  in  plenty 
on  ten  pounds  a-year.  Quitting  the  Gambia,  he  took  the 
road  through  Bambouk,  and  arrived  at  Ferbanna  on  the 
Faleme.  Here  he  was  received  with  the  most  extraordi- 
nary kindness  by  the  king,  who  gave  him  a  guide  and 
money  to  defray  his  expenses.  A  note  was  afterward  re- 
ceived from  him,  dated  Simbing,  and  which  contained 
merely  these  words, — "  Major  Houghton's  compUments  to 
Dr.  Laidley ;  is  in  good  health  on  his  way  to  Timbuctoo  ; 
robbed  of  all  his  goods  by  Fenda  Bucar's  son."  This  was 
the  last  communication  from  hun  ;  for  soon  afterward  tho 
negroes  brought  down  to  Pisania  the  mda'hcholy  tidings  of 
his  death,  of  which  Mr.  Park  subsequently  learned  the  par- 
ticulars. Some  Moors  had  persuaded  the  Major  to  accom- 
pany them  to  Tisheet,  a  place  in  the  Great  Desert,  fre- 
quented on  account  of  its  salt-mines.  In  alluring  him 
thither,  their  object,  as  appears  from  the  result,  was  to  rob 
him ;  for  it  was  very  much  out  of  the  direct  route  to  Tim- 
buctoo. Of  this  in  a  few  days  he  became  sensible,  and  in- 
sisted upon  returning  ;  but  they  would  not  permit  him  to 
leave  their  party  until  after  they  had  stripped  him  of  every 
article  in  his  possession.  He  wandered  about  for  some 
time  through  the  Desert  without  food  or  shelter,  till,  at 
length,  quite  exhausted,  he  sat  down  under  a  tree  and  ex- 
pired. Mr.  Park  was  shown  the  very  spot  where  his  re- 
mains were  abandoned  to  the  fowls  of  the  air. 


PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  83 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Parle's  First  Journey. 

As  soon  as  the  Association  were  informed  of  the  fate  of 
Major  Houghton,  they  accepted  the  offered  services  of  Mr. 
Mungo  Park,  a  native  of  Scotland,  regularly  bred  to  the 
medical  profession,  and  just  returned  from  a  voyage  to 
India.  The  committee  were  satisfied  that  Mr.  Park  pos- 
sessed the  requisite  qualifications,  though  they  could  not 
yet  be  aware  of  the  full  extent  of  his  courage  and  perse- 
verance, nor  of  the  unrivalled  eminence  to  which,  as  a  tra- 
veller, he  was  destined  to  rise  under  their  auspices. 

He  set  sail  from  Portsmouth  on  the  22d  May,  1795,  and 
on  the  21st  June  arrived  at  Jillifree  on  the  Gambia.  He 
then  proceeded  to  Pisania,  in  the  fertile  kingdom  of  Yani, 
where  he  was  detained  five  months  by  illness  under  the  hos- 
pitable roof  of  Dr.  Laidley.  While  suffering  from  the  fever 
of  the  climate,  he  acquired  the  Mandingo  language,  and  ob- 
tained considerable  information  from  the  negro  traders  re- 
specting the  interior  countries.  The  Gambia  at  this  station 
was  deep  and  muddy,  overshadowed  with  impenetrable 
thickets  of  mangrove,  and  the  stream  filled  with  crocodiles 
and  river-horses. 

On  the  2d  of  December,  Mr.  Park  took  his  departure, 
attended  only  by  a  few  negro  servants.  On  the  5th,  he  ar- 
rived at  Medina,  where  the  good  old  king  received  him  with 
the  same  hospitality  he  had  so  liberally  shown  to  Major 
Houghton ;  but  earnestly  exhorted  him  to  take  warning 
from  the  fate  of  that  too  adventurous  traveller,  and  go  no 
farther.  Mr.  Park  was  not  to  be  thus  discouraged ;  but  im- 
mediately proceeded  to  enter  the  gr^at  forest  or  wilderness 
which  separates  this  country  from  Bondou.  He  conformed 
to  the  example  of  his  companions  in  hanging  a  chann  or 
shred  of  cloth  upon  a  tree  at  its  entrance,  which  was  com- 
pletely covered  with  those  guardian  symbols.  In  two  days 
he  had  passed  the  wood,  and  found  Bondou  a  fine  cham- 
paign country,  watered  by  the  Faleme.  He  had  soon,  how- 
ever, to  encounter  the  perils  which  cannot  but  await  every 


84  park's  first  jottrnet. 

single  and  defenceless  traveller  who,  loaded  with  valuable 
goods,  passes  through  a  succession  ofpetty  kingdoms  where 
law  is  unknown.  At  Fatteconda,  which  he  reached  on  the 
21st  December,  he  was  obliged  to  wait  upon  Almami  the 
kincr,  who  had  already  disgraced  himself  by  the  plunder  of 
Major  Houghton.  Being  desirous  to  preserve  a  good  new  blue 
coat,  Mr.  Park  deemed  it  the  wisest  plan  to  wear  it  on  his  per- 
son, fondly  hoping  that  it  would  not  be  actually  stripped  oft' 
his  back.  However,  after  the  introductory  ceremonial,  the 
king  began  a  warm  panegyric  on  the  wealth  and  generosity  of 
the  \vhites,  whence  he  proceeded  to  the  praises  of  the  coat 
and  its  yellow  buttons,  concluding  with  expressing  the  de- 
light with  which  he  should  wear  it  for  the  sake  of  his  guest. 
He  did  not  add,  that  if  these  hints  were  disregarded,  it  would 
be  seized  by  force  ;  but  our  traveller,  being  thoroughly  con- 
vinced that  such  was  his  intention,  pulled  oft'  the  coat,  of 
which  he  humbly  requested  his  majesty's  acceptance.  The 
king  then  abstained  from  farther  spoil,  and  introduced  him 
as  a  curiosity  to  his  female  circle.  The  ladies,  after  a  care- 
ful survey,  approved  of  his  external  appearance,  with  the 
exception  of  the  two  deformities  of  a  white  skin  and  a  high 
nose  ;  but  for  these  they  made  ample  allowance,  being 
blemishes  produced  by  the  false  taste  of  his  mother,  who 
bad  bathed  him  in  milk  when  young,  and,  by  pinching  his 
nose,  elevated  it  into  its  present  absurd  height.  Park  flat- 
tered them  on  their  jet-black  skins  and  beautifully  flattened 
noses  ;  but  was  modestly  warned  that  honey-mouth  was  not 
esteemed  in  Bondou. 

Another  forest  intervened  between  that  kingdom  and  Ka- 
jaaga,  which  he  crossed  by  moonhght,  when  the  deep 
silence  of  the  woods  was  interrupted  only  by  the  howling  of 
wolves  and  hyenas,  which  glided  like  shadows  through 
the  thickets.  Scarcely  was  he  arrived  at  Joag,  in  Kajaaga, 
when  a  party  from  Bacheri  the  king  surrounded  him,  and 
declared  his  property  forfeited,  in  consequence  of  having 
entered  the  country  w- hout  payment  of  the  duties.  Thus 
he  was  stripped  of  all  his  goods  except  a  small  portion 
which  he  contrived  to  hide.  Unable  to  procure  a  meal,  he 
was  sitting  disconsolate  xindeT  z  bcntang  tree,  v/hen  an  aged 
female  slave  came  up  and  asked  if  he  had  dined.  Being 
told  th?t  he  had  not,  and  had  been  robbed  of  every  thing, 
she  presented  several  handfuls  of  nuts,  and  went  off  befora 


PARK'S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  85 

•ie  could  return  thanks.  Demba  Sego,  nephew  to  the  king 
f.f  KasKon,  and  who  happened  to  be  then  at  Joag  endea- 
V  ouring  to  negotiate  a  peace  between  his  uncle  and  Bacheri, 
v'ho  were  at  variance,  now  undertook  to  guide  him  into  that 
i;ountry,  and  did  so ;  but  exacted  so  many  duties  and  pre- 
eents,  that  Mi.  Park  was  stripped  of  half  his  remaining 
stock.  Kasson  was  found  a  level,  fertile,  and  beautiful 
country.  At  Kooniakary,  the  capital,  our  traveller  was 
vt  ell  received  by  the  king,  and  forwarded  to  Kemmoo,  the 
principal  town  of  Kaarta.  Daisy,  the  sovereign  of  this 
last,  likewise  received  him  with  the  utmost  kindness  ;  but 
on  learning  his  intention  of  taking  the  route  to  Timbuctoo 
through  Bambarro,  he  stated  this  to  be  impossible,  as  he 
himself  was  then  at  war  with  the  latter  kmgdom,  and  as- 
sured him  that  he  would  at  once  be  killed  if  he  attempted 
to  enter  it  from  Kaarta.  There  remained,  therefore,  no 
alternative  but  to  go  by  way  of  the  Moorish  kingdom  of 
Ludamar,  a  perilous  and  fatal  route,  in  which  Major 
'  loughton  had  already  perished.  Mr.  Park,  however,  hoped, 
iy  proceeding  along  the  southern  frontier,  to  reach  Bam- 
barra  without  commg  much  into  contact  with  the  barbarous 
and  bigoted  Moors  by  whom  it  was  peopled. 

On  his  arrival  at  Jarra,  a  large  town  chiefly  inhabited  by 
negroes,  but  entirely  under  the  power  of  the  Moors,  he 
sent  to  Benowm,  the  capital,  a  messenger  loaded  with  pre- 
sents to  negotiate  with  Ali,  their  chief,  for  a  passage  through 
Lis  territories.  After  waiting  a  fortnight  in  great  anxiety, 
he  received  a  safe-conduct  to  Goombo,  a  place  on  the  fron- 
tier of  Barnbarra.  He  first  proceeded  to  Deena,  a  town  in 
the  possession  of  the  Moors,  who  insulted  and  plundered 
him  in  the  grossest  manner,  so  that  he  was  happy  to  escape 
by  setting  out  at  two  in  the  morning  of  3d  March.  He 
passed  next  through  Sampaka  and  Dalli,  where  he  was  re- 
ceived by  the  negro  inhabitants  with  the  usual  kindness  and 
hospitality  of  that  race  ;  he  was  even  induced  to  stop  a  day 
at  Dalli  under  promise  of  an  escort ;  but  this  was  a  fatal 
pause.  At  Sami,  on  the  7th  March,  a  party  of  Moorish 
horsemen  appeared,  for  the  purpose  of  telling  him  that  Fa- 
tima,  the  favourite  wife  of  AU,  had  been  struck  with  curl- 
osity  to  see  what  kind  of  creature  a  Christian  was  ;  that  he 
must  therefore  come  and  show  himself;  but  was  assured 
H 


86  park's  first  jourjjey. 

that  he  would  be  well  treated,  and  on  satisfying  her  ma 
jesty's  wish,  would  even  be  forwarded  on  his  journey. 

Benowm,  the  Moorish  capital,  to  which  Park  was  then 
conveyed,  proved  to  be  a  mere  camp  composed  of  a  number 
of  dirty  tents,  intermingled  with  herds  of  camels,  horses, 
and  oxen.  He  was  surrounded  by  crowds  actuated  partly 
by  curiosity  and  partly  by  that  malignant  feeling  which  al- 
ways niflames  the  Moors  against  Christians.  They  snatched 
off  his  hat,  made  him  unbutton  his  clothes  to  show  the 
whiteness  of  his  skin,  and  counted  his  fingers  and  toes  to 
see  if  he  were  really  of  the  same  nature  with  themselves. 
After  bemg  kept  for  some  time  in  the  sun,  he  was  lodged 
in  a  hut  made  of  cornstalks,  supported  by  posts,  to  one  of 
which  was  tied  a  wild  hog,  evidently  in  derision,  and  to  in- 
timate that  they  were  fit  associates  for  each  other.  The 
hog,  indeed,  would  have  been  the  most  harmless  part  of  the 
afiair,  had  not  idle  boys  taken  delight  in  tormenting  and 
Working  up  the  animal  to  a  constant  state  of  fury.  Crowds 
of  men  and  women  incessantly  poured  in  to  see  the  white 
man,  and  he  was  obliged  to  continue  the  whole  day  but- 
toning and  unbuttoning  his  clothes,  to  show  his  skin,  and 
the  European  manner  of  dressing  and  undressing.  When 
curiosity  was  satisfied,  the  next  amusement  was  to  plague 
the  Christian,  and  he  became  the  sport  of  the  meanest  and 
most  vulgar  members  of  this  rude  community.  The  Moorish 
horsemen  took  him  out  and  galloped  round  him,  baiting  him 
as  if  he  had  been  a  wild  beast,  twirling  their  swords  in  his 
face  to  show  their  skill  in  horsemanship.  Repeated  at- 
tempts were  made  to  compel  him  to  work.  One  of  Ah's 
sons  desired  him  to  mend  the  lock  of  a  double-barrelled 
gun,  and  could  scarcely  be  persuaded  that  all  Europeans 
did  not  ply  the  trade  of  a  smith.  He  was  also  installed  as 
barber,  and  directed  to  shave  the  head  of  a  young  prince ; 
but  not  relishing  this  function,  he  contrived  to  give  his 
highness  such  a  cut  that  Ali  took  the  alarm  and  discharged 
him  as  incapable.  That  chief,  under  pretence  of  securing 
iim  against  depredation,  seized  for  himself  all  that  re- 
mained of  the  traveller's  property.  Having  examined  the 
instruments,  he  was  greatly  astonished  at  the  compass,  and 
particularly  at  its  always  pointing  towards  the  Great  Desert, 
rark,  tliinking  it  vain  to  attempt  any  scientific  exposition, 


PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  87 

Bttid  that  its  direction  was  always  to  the  place  where  his 
mother  d^yelt ;  whereupon  Ali,  struck  with  superstitious 
dread,  desired  it  to  be  taken  away. 

Amid  these  insults,  Park's  sufferings  were  the  more  se- 
vere from  the  very  scanty  measure  of  food  with  which  he 
was  supplied.  At  midnight  only  he  received  a  small  mess 
of  kouskous,  not  nearly  enough  to  satisfy  nature.  He  had 
been  invited,  indeed,  to  kill  and  dress  his  companion  the 
hog ;  but  this  he  considered  as  a  snare  laid  for  him,  believ- 
ing that  the  Mohammedans,  had  they  seen  him  feasting  on 
this  unpure  and  hated  flesh,  would  have  killed  him  on  the 
spot.  As  the  dry  season  advanced,  water  became  scarce 
and  precious,  and  only  a  very  limited  quantity  was  allowed 
to  reach  the  infidel,  who  thus  endured  the  pangs  of  the  most 
tormenting  thirst.  On  one  occasion,  a  Moor  who  was 
drawing  water  for  his  cows,  yielded  to  his  earnest  entreaty 
that  he  might  put  the  bucket  to  his  mouth ;  then,  struck 
with  sudden  alarm  at  such  a  profanation  of  the  vessel,  seized 
it,  and  poured  the  liquid  into  the  trough,  desiring  him  to 
share  with  the  cattle.  Park  overcame  the  risings  of  pride, 
plunged  his  head  into  the  water,  and  enjoyed  a  delicious 
draught. 

During  this  dreadful  period  he  contrived,  nevertheless, 
to  obtain  some  information.  Even  the  rudest  of  his  tor- 
mentors took  pleasure  in  teaching  him  the  Arabic  charac- 
ters, by  tracing  them  upon  the  sand.  Two  Mohammedan 
travellers  came  to  Benowm,  from  whom  he  obtained  routes 
to  Morocco,  Walet,  and  Timbuctoo  ;  but  they  gave  the  most 
discouraging  report  as  to  the  prospects  of  reaching  the 
latter  city.  He  was  told  it  would  not  do ;  the  Moors  were 
there  entirely  masters,  and  viewed  all  Christians  as  chil- 
dren of  the  Devil  and  enemies  of  the  prophet. 

Fatima,  the  wife  of  Ali,  whose  curiosity  to  see  a  Chris- 
tian he  had  been  brought  hither  to  gratify,  was  absent  all 
this  time  and  not  like  to  arrive,  while  the  rancour  of  the 
Moors,  by  whom  Park  was  surrounded,  became  always 
more  imbittered.  A  party  even  proposed  that  he  should  be 
condemned  to  death,  though  Ali's  sons  only  recommended 
to  put  out  his  eyes,  alleging  that  they  resembled  those  of  a 
cat.  Hereupon  he  began  seriously  to  consider  the  possibi- 
lity of  escape  ;  but  besides  his  being  closely  watched,  the 
Desert  was  now  so  entirely  destitute  of  water,  that  he  must 


88  park's  first  journey. 

have  perished  on  the  road  with  thirst.  He  was  therefore 
obUffed  to  await  the  rainy  season,  however  unfavourable  for 
travelling  through  the  negro  territories. 

Ali,  on  the  30th  April,  having  occasion  to  move  his  quar- 
ters, came  to  Bubaker,  the  residence  of  Fatima,  and  Park 
was  introduced  to  that  favourite  princess.  The  beauty  of 
a  Moorish  female  is  measured  entirely  by  her  circumference ; 
and  to  bestow  this  grace  on  their  daughters,  the  mothers 
stuff  them  with  enormous  quantities  of  milk  andkouskous, 
the  swallowing  of  which  is  enforced  even  with  blows,  till 
they  attain  that  acme  of  beauty  which  renders  them  a  load 
for  a  camel.  The  dimensions  by  which  Fatima  had  capti- 
vated her  royal  lover  were  very  enormous  ;  she  added  to 
them  Arab  features  and  long  black  hair.  This  queen  at 
first  shrunk  back  with  horror  at  seeing  before  her  that  mon- 
ster, a  Christian  ;  but  after  putting  various  questions,  be- 
gan to  see  in  him  nothing  so  wholly  different  from  the  rest 
of  mankind.  She  presented  to  him  a  bowl  of  milk,  and 
continued  to  show  him  the  only  kindness  he  met  with  during 
this  dreadful  captivity.  At  length  her  powerful  intercession 
induced  Ali  to  take  Park  with  him  to  Jarra,  where  our  tra- 
veller hoped  to  find  the  means  of  proceeding  on  his  journey. 

At  Jarra  a  striking  scene  occurred.  Ali,  through  ava- 
rice, had  involved  himself  in  the  quarrel  between  the  mo- 
narchs  of  Kaarta  and  Bambarra,  and  news  arrived  that 
Daisy  was  in  full  march  to  attack  the  town.  The  troops, 
who  ought  to  have  defended  the  place,  fled  at  the  first  on- 
set, and  nothing  remained  for  the  inhabitants  but  to  aban- 
don it  and  escape  from  slaughter  or  slavery,  the  dreadfiil 
alternatives  of  African  conquest.  The  scene  was  affecting. 
The  local  attachments  of  the  African  are  strong ;  and  the 
view  of  this  disconsolate  crowd  quitting  perhaps  for  ever 
their  native  spot,  the  scene  of  their  early  life,  and  where 
they  had  fixed  all  their  hopes  and  desires,  presented  a  strik- 
ing picture  of  human  calamity.  Park  would  now  very 
gladly  have  presented  himself  before  his  fi-iend  Daisy  ;  but 
being  afraid  that  in  the  confusion  he  would  be  mistaken  for 
a  Moor,  and  killed  as  such,  he  thought  it  a  safer  course  to 
join  the  retreat.  He  found  more  difficulty  in  escaping  than 
he  had  expected,  being  seized  by  three  Mohammedans,  who 
threatened  to  carry  him  back  to  Ali,  but  finally  contented 
themselves  with  robbing  him  of  his  cloak.     In  flying  from 


PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  89 

savage  man,  he  soon  found  himself  involved  in  a  danger 
still  more  alarmmg.  He  was  in  the  midst  of  an  immense 
desert,  in  which  was  neither  food  nor  a  drop  of  water. 
Having  ascended  the  loftiest  tree  within  his  reach,  he  could 
see  no  boundary  to  the  scene  of  desolation.  The  pangs  of 
thirst  became  intolerable,  a  dimness  spread  over  his  eyes, 
and  he  felt  as  if  this  life,  with  all  its  mingled  joys  and  mi- 
series, was  about  to  close, — as  if  all  the  hopes  of  glory  by 
which  he  had  been  impelled  to  this  adventurous  career  had 
vanished,  and  he  was  to  perish  at  the  moment  when  a  few 
days  more  would  have  brought  him  to  the  Niger.  Sud- 
denly he  saw  a  flash  of  lightning,  and  eagerly  hailed  it  as  a 
portent  of  rain ;  the  wind  then  began  to  blow  among  the 
bushes,  but  it  was  a  sand-wind  which  continued  for  an  hour 
to  fill  the  air.  At  last  there  burst  forth  a  brighter  flash, 
followed  by  a  refreshing  shower,  which  being  received  upon 
his  clothes,  and  the  moisture  wrung  out,  gave  him  new  Ufe. 
He  travelled  onwards,  passing,  but  carefully  shunning,  a 
village  of  the  Moors,  when  thirst,  imperfectly  satisfied,  be- 
gan again  to  torment  him.  Then  he  heard  a  heavenly 
sound — the  croaking  of  frogs  ;  and  soon  reached  the  muddy 
pools  which  they  inhabited,  when  the  thirst  both  of  himself 
and  his  horse  was  thoroughly  quenched.  He  came  to  a 
Foulah  village,  called  Sherillah,  where  the  dooty,  or  chief 
magistrate,  shut  the  door  in  his  face,  and  refused  him  a 
handful  of  corn  ;  however,  in  passing  the  suburbs,  a  poor 
woman,  who  was  spinning  cotton  in  front  of  her  hut,  in- 
vited him  to  enter,  and  set  before  him  a  dish  of  kouskous. 
Next  day  he  was  hospitably  received  by  a  negro  shepherd, 
who  regaled  him  with  dates  and  boiled  corn ;  but  happen- 
ing to  pronounce  the  word  Nazarani  (Christian),  the  wife 
and  children  screamed  and  ran  out  of  the  house,  to  which 
nothing  could  induce  them  to  return. 

At  Wawra,  Park  considered  himself  beyond  the  reach  of 
the  Moors  ;  and,  being  kindly  received,  determined  to  rest 
two  or  three  days.  When  he  was  known  to  be  on  his  way 
to  Sego,  the  capital,  several  women  came  and  besought  him 
to  ask  the  king  about  their  sons,  who  had  been  taken  away 
to  the  army.  One  had  neither  seen  nor  heard  of  hers  for 
several  years ;  she  declared  he  was  no  heathen,  but  said 
his  prayers  daily,  and  that  he  was  often  the  subject  of  her 
dreams.     Leaving  this  place  he  came  to  Dingyee,  where 


90  park's  first  journey. 

he  seemed  invested  with  a  sacred  character, — a  man  ear- 
nestly entreating  a  lock  of  his  hair  to  be  used  as  *  saphie 
or  charm  ;  and  reo(^iving  permission  to  cut  it  off,  he  con- 
trived to  crop  completely  one  side  of  the  head.  Proceeding 
towards  Sego,  he  joined  on  the  road  several  small  negro 
parties  ;  but,  as  the  country  became  more  populous,  hospi- 
tality was  less  common.  In  Moorja,  however,  though  mostly 
peopled  by  Mohammedans,  he  found  gayety  and  abundance. 
He  next  passed  through  several  towns  and  villages,  which, 
in  the  late  war,  had  been  systematically  destroyed  ;  the 
large  bentang  tree  under  which  the  inhabitants  used  to 
meet  had  been  cut  down,  the  wells  were  filled  up,  and  every 
thing  done  which  could  render  the  neighbourhood  uninha- 
bitable. He  passed  also  a  cofflcj  or  caravan,  of  about  se- 
venty slaves  tied  together  by  the  neck  with  thongs  of  bul- 
locks' hide,  seven  slaves  upon  each  thong.  His  horse  was 
now  so  completely  worn  out,  that,  instead  of  attempting  to 
ride,  he  was  content  to  drive  it  before  him.  Being  also 
barefooted,  and  in  the  most  miserable  plight,  he  afforded  a 
subject  of  merriment  to  the  natives,  who  asked  if  he  had 
been  travelling  to  Mecca,  and  made  ironical  proposals  for 
the  purchase  of  his  horse  ;  even  the  slaves  were  ashamed 
to  be  seen  in  his  company. 

At  length,  the  near  approach  to  Sego  was  indicated  by 
crowds  hastening  to  its  market ;  and  Mr.  Park  was  told  that 
on  the  following  day,  the  21st  July,  that  primary  object  of 
his  search,  the  Joliba  or  Great  Water,  would  appear  before 
him.  He  passed  a  sleepless  night,  but,  starting  before  day- 
break, he  had  the  satisfaction,  at  eight  o'clock,  to  see  the 
smoke  rising  over  Sego.  He  overtook  some  former  fellow- 
travellers,  and,  in  riding  through  a  piece  of  marshy  ground, 
one  of  them  called  out,  geo  affilli  (see  the  water),  and  look* 
ing  forwards,  "  I  saw,"  says  he,  "  with  infinite  pleasure, 
the  great  object  of  my  mission,  the  long-sought-for  majestic 
Niger,  glittering  to  the  morning  sun,  as  broad  as  the 
Thames  at  Westminster,  and  flowing  slowly  to  the  eastward. 
I  hastened  to  the  brink,  and  having  drunk  of  the  water» 
lifted  up  my  fervent  thanks  in  prayer  to  the  Great  Ruler  of 
all  things,  for  having  thus  far  crowned  my  endeavours  with 
success." 

Mr.  Park  now  saw  before  him  Sego,  the  capital  of  the 
■kingdom  of  liambarra.     It  consisted  of  four  separate  towHiS, 


1 


park's  first  journey.  91 

two  on  e^ch  side  of  the  river,  surrounded  with  high  mud- 
walls, — the  houses,  though  only  of  clay,  neatly  white- 
washed,— the  streets  commodious,  with  mosques  rising  in 
every  quarter.  The  place  was  estimated  to  contain  about 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants.  The  numerous  canoes  on  the 
river,  the  crowded  population,  and  the  cultivated  state  of 
the  surrounding  country,  presented  altogether  an  appear- 
ance of  civilization  and  magnificence  little  expected  in  the 
bosom  of  Africa.  The  traveller  sought  a  passage  to  Sego- 
see-Korro,  the  quarter  where  the  king  resided  ;  but,  owing 
to  the  crowd  of  passengers,  he  was  detained  two  hours  ; 
during  which  time  his  majesty  was  apprized  that  a  white 
jnan,  poorly  equipped,  was  about  to  pass  the  river  to  seek 
an  audience.  A  chief  was  immediately  sent,  with  an  ex- 
press order  that  the  traveller  should  not  cross  without  his  ma- 
jesty's permission,  and  pointed  to  a  village  at  some  distance, 
where  it  was  recommended  that  the  stranger  should  pass 
the  night.  Park,  not  a  little  disconcerted,  repaired  to  the 
village  ;  but  as  the  order  had  not  been  accompanied  with 
any  provision  for  his  reception,  he  found  every  door  shut. 
Turning  his  horse  loose  to  graze,  he  was  preparing,  as  a  se- 
curity from  wild  beasts,  to  climb  a  tree  and  sleep  among  the 
branches,  when  a  beautiful  and  affecting  incident  occurred, 
which  gives  a  most  pleasing  view  of  the  negro  character. 
An  old  woman,  returning  from  the  labours  of  the  field,  cast 
on  him  a  look  of  compassion,  and  desired  him  to  follow  her. 
She  led  him  to  an  apartment  in  her  hut,  procured  a  fine  fish, 
which  she  broiled  for  his  supper,  and  spread  a  mat  for  him 
to  sleep  upon.  She  then  desired  her  maidens,  who  had 
been  gazing  in  fixed  astonishment  at  the  white  man,  to  re- 
sume their  tasks,  which  they  continued  to  ply  through  a 
great  part  of  the  night.  They  cheered  their  labours  with 
a  song  which  must  have  been  composed  extempore,  since 
Mr.  Park,  with  deep  emotion,  discovered  that  he  himself 
was  the  subject  of  it.  It  said,  in  a  strain  of  aflfecting  sim- 
plicity,— "  The  winds  roared,  and  the  rains  fell.  The  poor 
white  man,  faint  and  weary,  came  and  sat  under  our  tree. 
He  has  no  mother  to  bring  him  milk,  no  wife  to  grind  his 
corn. — Chorus — liCt  us  pity  the  white  man,  no  mother  has 
he,"  &c.  Our  traveller  was  much  effected,  and  nextmom- 
'ing  could  not  depart  without  requesting  his  landlady's  ac- 
ceptance of  the  only  gift  he  had  left,  two  out  of  the  four 
4»rass  buttons  that  stUl  remained  on  his  waistcoat. 


92  PARR'S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

He  remained  two  days  in  this  village,  during  which  he 
understood  that  he  was  the  subject  of  much  deliberation 
at  court,  the  Moors  and  slave-merchants  giving  the  most 
unfavourable  reports  of  his  character  and  purposes.  A 
messenger  came  and  asked  if  he  had  any  present,  and 
seemed  much  disappointed  on  being  told  that  the  Moors  had 
robbed  him  of  ever}^  thing.  On  the  second  day  appeared 
another  envoy,  bearing  an  injunction  from  Mansong  that 
the  stranger  should  not  enter  Sego,  but  proceed  forthwith 
on  his  journey ;  to  defray  the  expenses  of  which,  a  bag, 
containing  5000  cowries,  was  delivered  to  him.  Mr.  Park 
estimates  this  sum  at  only  twenty  shillings  ;  but  according 
to  the  rate  of  provisions,  it  was  worth  much  more,  being 
sufficient  to  maintain,  for  fifty  days,  himself  and  his  horse. 

Two  days  brought  our  traveller  to  Sansanding,  a  large 
town  with  10,000  inhabitants.  He  hoped  to  enter  unno- 
ticed, finding  himself  mistaken  by  the  negroes  for  a  Moor. 
Being  taken,  however,  before  Counti  Mamadi,  the  dooty,  or 
chief  magistrate,  he  found  a  number  of  Mohammedans, 
who  denied  the  supposed  national  connexion,  and  regarded 
him  with  their  usual  hatred  and  suspicion.  Several  even 
pretended  they  had  seen  him  before,  and  one  woman 
swore  that  she  had  kept  his  house  three  years  at  Gallam. 
The  dooty  put  a  negative  on  their  proposition  of  dragging 
him  by  force  to  the  mosque  ;  but  they  climbed  over  in  great 
numbers  into  the  court  where  h|£  had  taken  up  his  quarters 
for  the  night,  insisting  that  he  should  perform  his  evening 
devotions,  and  eat  eggs.  The  first  proposal  was  positively  de- 
clined ;  but  the  second  he  professed  his  utmost  readiness  to 
comply  with.  The  eggs  were  accordingly  brought,  but  raw, 
as  the  natives  imagined  it  a  part  of  European  depravity  to 
be  fond  of  them  in  that  state.  His  reluctance  to  eat  raw 
eggs  exalted  him  in  the  eyes  of  his  sage  visitants  ;  his  host 
accordingly  killed  a  sheep,  and  gave  him  a  plentiful  supper. 

His  route  now  lay  through  woods,  grievously  infested 
with  all  kinds  of  wild  animals.  His  guide  suddenly  wheeled 
his  horse  round,  calling  out  "  Wara  billi  billi  I — a  very  large 
lion  !"  Mr.  Park's  steed  was  ill  fitted  to  convey  him  from 
the  scene  of  danger ;  but,  seeing  nothing,  he  supposed  his 
guide  mistaken,  when  the  latter  exclaimed,  "  God  preserve 
me  !"  and  the  traveller  then  saw  a  very  large  red  lion,  with 
the  head  couched  between  the  fore-paws.  His  eyes  were 
fixed  ajs  by  fascination  on  this  soverei  n  of  the  beasts,  and  he 


park's  first  journey.  93 

expected  every  moment  the  fatal  spring;  but  the  savage 
animal,  either  not  pressed  by  hunger  or  struck  with  some 
mysterious  awe,  remained  immoveable,  and  allowed  the 
party  to  pass  unmolested.  Real  misery  arose  from  a  meaner 
cause,  namely,  the  amazing  swarms  of  mosquitoes  which 
ascend  from  the  swamps  and  creeks,  and  to  whose  attack, 
from  the  ragged  state  of  his  garments,  he  was  exposed  at 
every  point.  He  was  covered  all  over  with  blisters,  and  at 
night  could  get  no  rest.  An  affecting  crisis  next  acrived 
His  horse,  the  faithful  and  suffering  companion  of  his  jour- 
ney, had  been  daily  becoming  weaker.  At  length,  stumbling 
over  some  rough  ground,  he  fell :  all  his  master's  efforts 
were  insufficient  to  raise  him,  and  no  alternative  remained 
but  to  leave  the  poor  animal ;  which,  after  collecting  some 
grass  and  laying  it  before  him,  Mr.  Park  did,  not  without  a 
sad  presentiment  that,  ere  long,  he  himself  might  in  like 
manner  lie  down  and  perish  with  hunger  and  fatigue. 

He  now  resolved  to  hire  a  boat,  in  which  he  was  conveyed 
up  the  river  to  Silla,  another  large  town,  where  his  reception 
was  so  inhospitable  that  the  dooty  reluctantly  permitted 
him  to  take  shelter  from  the  rain  in  a  damp  shed.  Half- 
naked,  worn  down  by  fatigue  and  sickness,  and  foreseeing 
the  approach  of  the  rains  by  which  the  whole  country 
would  be  inundated,  Mr.  Park  began  seriously  to  contem- 
plate his  situation.  All  the  obstacles  now  stated  were 
small,  when  compared  to  the  fact,  that,  in  proceeding  east- 
ward, he  would  still  be  within  the  range  of  Moorish  influ- 
ence. He  learned,  that  at  Jenne,  though  included  in  Bam- 
barra,  the  municipal  power  was  chiefly  in  the  hands  of 
these  savage  and  merciless  fanatics,  who,  at  Timbuctoo 
also,  held  the  entire  sway.  On  these  grounds  he  felt  con- 
vinced that  certain  destruction  awaited  him  in  his  progress 
eastward  ;  that  all  his  discoveries  would  perish  with  himself; 
and  that  his  life  would  be  sacrificed  in  vain.  His  only  hope, 
and  it  was  but  faint,  of  ever  reaching  England,  depended 
upon  his  return  westward,  and  on  his  proceeding  by  the 
most  direct  route  to  the  coast.  On  this  course  he  deter- 
mined,— a  decision  which  was  fully  approved  both  by  his 
employers  and  by  the  public. 

During  his  stay  at  Silla,  he  used  every  effort  to  obtain 
information  respecting  the  more  eastern  countries,  particu- 
larly the  kingdom  of  Timbuctoo,  and  the  course  of  tho 


94  PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

Niger.  He  was  told  that  the  next  great  city  along  that  river 
was  Jenne,  which  was  represented  as  very  flourishing,  and 
larger  than  Sego  or  any  other  place  in  Bambarra.  Lower 
down,  the  river  spread  into  an  expanse,  called  Dibbie  or  the 
Dark  Lake,  so  extensive  that,  in  crossing  it,  the  canoes  for  a 
whole  day  lost  sight  of  land.  On  the  eastern  side  the  Niger 
issued  out  of  this  lake  in  two  large  branches,  enclosing  the 
alluvial  country  of  Jinbala,  when  they  again  united  in  one 
channel,  which  flowed  on  to  Kabra,  the  port  of  Timbuctoo. 
That  town,  situated  a  day's  journey  north  from  the  Niger, 
was  described  to  Mr.  Park  as  the  great  centre  of  the  com- 
merce carried  on  between  the  Moors  and  negroes,  by  means 
of  which  the  former  people  had  filled  it  with  Mohammedan 
converts  ;  it  was  added,  that  the  king  and  his  principal  offi- 
cers belonged  to  this  faith,  which  was  professed  there  with 
even  more  than  the  usual  bigotry.  An  old  negro  related, 
that,  on  his  entering  a  public  inn,  the  landlord  laid  on  the 
floor  a  mat  and  a  rope,  saying,  "  If  you  are  a  Mussulman, 
you  are  my  friend,  sit  down  on  this  mat ;  if  not,  you  are 
my  slave,  and  with  this  rope  I  will  lead  you  to  market." 
The  king,  named  Abu  Abrahima,  was  clothed  in  silk,  lived 
in  great  pomp,  and  possessed  immense  riches.  There  has 
since  appeared  reason  to  suspect  that,  in  these  reports,  both 
the  bigotry  and  the  splendour  of  Timbuctoo  were  some- 
what exaggerated.  Beyond  this  city,  eastward,  there  was 
said  to  be  a  great  kingdom  called  Houssa,  with  a  capital 
of  the  same  name,  situated  on  the  Niger.  This  also  was 
somewhat  inaccurate.  There  is  no  city  called  Houssa ; 
and  the  term  is  applied,  not  to  a  kingdom,  but  to  an  ex- 
tensive region  comprehending  many  principalities,  and 
through  which  the  Niger  does  not  pass. 

Having  formed  his  resolution,  he  forthwith  began  his  re- 
turn to  the  westward,  and  at  Modiboo  met  with  an  unex- 
pected and  rather  pleasing  occurrence.  While  he  was  con- 
versing with  the  dooty,  a  horse  was  heard  to  neigh ;  upon 
which  the  magistrate  asked,  smiling,  if  he  knew  who  was 
speaking  to  him — and  presently  going  out,  led  in  the  travel- 
ler's own  horse,  greatly  recruited  by  rest.  Mr.  Park  at  first 
drove  the  animal  before  him,  but  afterward  mounted,  and 
found  him  of  great  benefit  in  passing  the  swamps  and  swollen 
rivulets  which  obstructed  his  route.  He  soon  learned  that 
dangers,  even  greater  than  he  was  aware  of,  had  beset  his 


PARK'S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  95 

path.  The  king  of  Bambarra  had  been  at  last  so  worked 
upon  by  Moorish  counsellors,  that,  repenting  even  his  for- 
mer stinted  kindness,  he  had  sent  messengers  to  appreJiend 
Park,  and  to  bring  him  a  prisoner  to  Sego  ;  from  which  fate 
he  escaped  only  by  the  retrograde  direction  he  had  taken. 
Thenceforth  every  door  was  resolutely  shut  against  him ; 
at  Sansanding  his  best  friend  CountiMamadi  privately  paid 
him  a  visit,  and  advised  him  to  leave  the  city  early  next 
morning,  and  to  make  no  delay  in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital. 
Accordingly,  at  a  village  near  that  city,  he  obtained  a  con- 
firmation of  the  above  tidings,  and  was  exhorted  to  lose  no 
time  if  he  wished  to  get  safe  out  of  Bambarra.  He  then 
quitted  the  road,  and  struck  off  through  fields  and  swamps. 
He  once  intended  to  swim  across  the  Niger,  and  push  to- 
wards the  Gold  Coast,  but  afterward  resolved  to  pursue  his 
course  westward  along  the  river,  and  thus  ascertain  its  pre- 
cise line.  He  had  now  nothing  to  subsist  on  except  what 
charity  bestowed,  which  was  only  an  occasional  handful 
of  raw  com.  There  was  also  the  greatest  difficulty  in  find- 
ing a  way  through  the  swampy  and  inundated  grounds. 
Once  his  horse  and  he  sunk  together  to  the  neck  in  mud, 
and  came  out  so  completely  besmeared,  that  they  were  com- 
pared by  the  natives  to  two  dirty  elephants.  At  another 
time,  when  he  had  stripped,  and  was  leading  his  horse 
through  a  river  that  took  him  up  to  the  neck,  a  friendly 
African  called  out,  that  he  would  perish  if  he  went  on,  and 
undertook  to  procure  a  canoe  ;  but  when  he  came  out,  and 
his  white  skin  was  distinctly  seen,  the  stranger  put  his 
hand  to  his  mouth,  exclaiming,  in  a  low  tone  of  amazement, 
"  God  preserve  me  !  what  is  this  1"  He  continued  his 
kindness,  however,  and  at  Taffaro,  where  our  traveller  was 
shut  out  from  every  house,  and  obliged  to  sleep  under  a  tree, 
brought  him  some  supper.  One  of  his  most  disagreeable 
encounters  was  at  Souha,  where  the  dooty,  after  a  surly 
refusal  of  every  refreshment,  called  upon  a  slave,  whom  he 
ordered  to  dig  a  pit,  uttering,  at  the  same  time,  expressions 
of  anger  and  vexation.  The  hole  became  always  deeper 
and  deeper,  till  it  assumed  the  appearance  of  a  grave  ;  and 
Park,  who  saw  no  one  but  himself  likely  to  be  put  into  it, 
began  to  think  it  was  high  time  to  be  moving  off.  At 
length  the  slave  went  away,  and  returned,  holding  by  the 
leg  and  arm  the  naked  corpse  of  a  boy  about  nine  years  old, 


96  PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

which  he  threw  in  with  an  air  of  savage  unconcern,  the' 
dooty  exclaiming,  '■'■  najphula  attiniata  I  money  lost,  money 
lost !"  Mr.  Park  withdrew  in  the  deepest  disgust  at  this 
display  of  brutal  and  selfish  avarice.  The  only  hearty  meal 
he  obtained  for  many  days  was  from  a  Moslem  convert, 
who,  presenting  a  board,  entreated  him  to  write  a  saphie 
upon  it,  the  return  for  which  would  be  a  good  supper  of 
rice  and  salt.  This  was  too  important  an  offer  to  be  re- 
jected from  nice  scruples.  He  therefore  covered  the  board 
with  the  Lord's  Prayer,  which  his  host  carefully  washed 
otF  and  drank,  afterward  licking  the  wood  with  his  tongue. 
For  this,  in  addition  to  his  good  rice  supper,  he  received 
next  morning  a  breakfast  of  meal  and  milk. 

Our  traveller  now  arrived  at  Bammakoo,  where  the  level 
country  ontliis  side  of  the  Niger  terminates  ;  but,  on  wish- 
ing to  cross  to  the  other  bank,  he  was  informed  that  the 
river  would  not  be  fordable  for  several  months,  and  that  no 
canoe  could  be  procured  large  enough  to  transport  himself 
and  his  horse.  At  length  there  was  pointed  out  a  path, 
rocky  and  difficult,  but  through  which  he  might  contrive  to 
pick  a  way  under  the  direction  of  a  Jilli-kea,  or  singing 
man,  who  was  going  to  Sibidooloo.  The  track,  however, 
proved  excessively  rough  and  perilous ;  when  his  tuneful 
conductor,  finding  himself  mistaken  in  the  way,  sprang  up 
among  the  clifts,  and  quickly  disappeared.  Mr.  Park  was 
obliged  to  return  and  search  among  a  number  of  glens,  till 
he  found  a  track  marked  by  the  tread  of  horses,  which  led 
him  to  Kooma,  a  beautiful  sequestered  village  in  the  heart 
of  those  barren  mountains,  where,  on  the  produce  of  a  small 
fertile  valley,  the  inhabitants  lived  in  peaceful  abundance. 
They  showed  that  kind  hospitality  which  had  been  be- 
stowed only  scantily  and  occasionally  in  the  still  more 
Fruitful  regions  below.  Mr.  Park  set  out  next  day  for  Si- 
bidooloo ;  but  on  this  route  his  last  and  greatest  disaster 
awaited  him.  In  passing  a  rivulet  he  found  a  shepherd, 
who  had  been  wounded  by  a  party  of  banditti,  and  soon 
after  saw  a  man  sittinfj  on  the  stump  of  a  tree,  while  from 
among  the  grass  appeared  the  heads  of  six  or  seven  others, 
with  muskets  in  their  hands.  Seeing  it  impossible  to 
escape,  he  resolved  to  put  the  best  face  he  could  on  his  situa- 
tion. Pretending  to  take  them  for  elephant-hunters,  he 
went  up  and  asked  if  their  chase  had  been  successful. 


97 

Instead  of  answering,  one  of  them  ordered  him  to  dismount ; 
but  then,  as  if  recollecting  himself,  waved  with  his  hand 
to  proceed.  The  traveller  had  not  gone  far  when  he  heard 
voices  behind,  and,  looking  round,  saw  them  all  in  full  pur- 
suit, calling  to  him  that  they  were  sent  to  carry  himself  and 
his  horse  before  the  king  of  the  Foulahs  at  Fooladoo.  He 
did  not  attempt  a  vain  resistance,  but  accompanied  them  till 
they  came  to  a  dark  spot  in  the  depth  of  the  wood,  when 
one  of  them  said,  "  This  place  will  do."  The  same  man 
snatched  off  Mr.  Park's  hat ;  another  instantly  detached 
the  last  remaining  button  from  his  waistcoat ;  the  rest 
searched  his  pockets,  and  investigated,  with  the  most  scru- 
pulous accuracy,  every  portion  of  his  apparel ;  at  last  they 
determined  to  make  sure  work  by  stripping  hun  to  the 
skin.  As  he  pointed  to  his  pocket-compass  with  earnest 
entreaty,  one  of  them  cocked  a  pistol,  threatenmg,  if  he 
should  touch  it,  to  shoot  him  through  the  head.  As  they 
were  carrying  off  every  thing,  they  were  seized  with  a  feel- 
ing  of  remorse,  and  threw  to  him  his  worst  shirt,  a  pair  of 
trowsers,  and  his  hat,  in  the  crown  of  which  he  kept  his 
memorandums. 

After  this  blow  Mr.  Park  felt  a  deeper  depression  than 
he  had  experienced  under  any  former  disaster.  Naked  and 
alone,  in  a  vast  wilderness,  500  miles  from  any  settlement, 
surrounded  by  savage  beasts  and  by  men  still  more  savage, 
he  saw  no  prospect  before  him  but  to  lie  down  and  perish. 
From  this  depth  of  despondency  his  mind  was  suddenly  re- 
vived by  a  mingled  impression  of  nature  and  of  religion.  A 
small  moss,  in  a  state  of  fructification,  struck  his  eye,  the 
delicate  conformation  of  whose  roots,  leaves,  and  capsule, 
could  not  be  contemplated  without  admiration.  He  then 
bethought  himself, — "Can  that  Being  who  planted,  wa 
tered,  and  brought  to  perfection,  in  this  obscure  corner  of 
the  world,  a  thing  which  appears  of  so  small  importance, 
look  with  unconcern  upon  the  situation  and  sufferings  of 
creatures  formed  after  his  own  image  1"  Inspired  by  these 
just  and  pious  reflections,  he  started  up  and  went  on,  de- 
spite of  fatigue  ;  and  he  soon  found  deliverance  to  be  nearer 
than  he  had  any  reason  to  anticipate. 

Having  arrived  at  Sibidooloo,  he  waited  on  the  mansa, 
or  cliief  ruler  of  the  town,  and  related  his  misfortune  ;  when 
the  latter,  taking  his  pipe  from  his  mouth,  and  tossing  up 


98  PARK  S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

his  sleeve,  said,  with  an  indignant  air,  "  Sit  down,  yon  shall 
have  every  thing  restored  to  you  ;  I  have  sworn  it."  He 
then  ordered  several  of  his  people  to  go  by  daybreak  next 
morning  over  the  hills,  and  obtain  the  assistance  of  the 
dooty  of  Bammakoo  in  pursuing  the  robbers.  Thus  re- 
lieved, Mr.  Park  remained  two  days  in  this  hospitable  vil- 
lage, but  found  it  pressed  by  so  severe  a  famine  that  he 
could  not  think  of  tasking  their  kindness  any  longer,  and 
went  on  to  a  town  called  Wonda.  Here  the  mansa,  who 
was  at  once  chief  magistrate  and  schoolmaster,  received 
him  with  kindness ;  but  the  famine  was  felt  there  with 
equal  severity.  Remarking  five  or  six  women  who  came 
daily  to  receive  an  allowance  of  com  from  the  dooty,  he 
took  leave  to  ask  an  explanation.  "  Look  at  that  boy,'* 
said  the  magistrate  ;  *'  his  mother  has  sold  him  to  me  for 
fifty  days'  subsistence  for  herself  and  family."  Our  tra- 
veller, having  during  his  stay  become  very  unwell,  heard 
the  hospitable  landlord  and  his  wife  lamenting  to  them- 
selves the  necessity  of  supporting  him  till  he  shouM  either 
recover  or  die. 

At  the  end  of  nine  days  messengers  arrived  from  Sibi- 
dooloo  with  Mr.  Park's  horse,  harness,  clothes,  and  even 
the  pocket  compass,  though  broken  ;  all  of  which  had  been 
recovered  by  the  exertions  of  the  mansa.  The  horse,  being 
reduced  to  a  skeleton,  and  quite  unfit  for  a  journey  over  the 
flinty  roads,  was  presented  to  his  landlord ;  the  saddle  and 
bridle  were  sent  to  his  generous  friend  at  Sibidooloo. 
Then,  sick  as  he  was,  our  traveller  took  leave,  and  went 
through  several  towns  in  the  mountain  territory  of  Mand- 
ing,  where  he  was,  on  the  whole,  hospitably  treated.  His 
arrival  at  Kamalia  formed  a  most  important  era.  There  he 
met  Karfa  Taura,  a  negro,  who  was  collecting  a  cofHe  of 
slaves  for  the  Gambia.  Karfa  told  him  it  was  impossible 
at  this  season  to  traverse  the  Jallonka  wilderness,  in  which 
there  were  eight  rapid  rivers  to  be  crossed  ;  but  he  ofiered 
to  support  him  in  the  interval,  and  conduct  him  at  the  pro- 
per season  to  the  Gambia,  asking  only  a  reasonable  com- 
pensation, which  was  fixed  at  the  value  of  a  prime  slave. 
Mr.  Park  was  thus  seasonably  delivered  from  all  his  trou- 
bles, and  obtained  a  more  certain  prospect  of  reaching  home 
in  safety. 

He  no  longer  encountered  those  difficulties  and  viciss*. 


park's  first  JOURNEr.  99 

tudes  which  had  rendered  the  former  part  of  liis  journey  so 
full  of  interest  and  adventure.  In  traversing  the  high  coun- 
tries of  Manding,  Konkodoo,  and  Dindikoo,  the  chief  object 
which  attracted  his  attention  was  the  mode  of  extracting 
gold.  This  precious  metal  did  not  occur  in  the  form  of  ore, 
or  in  large  masses,  but  its  grains  were  mingled  with  a  spe- 
cies of  dust  or  sand.  This  golden  earth  appears  to  be 
chiefly  washed  down  by  torrents  from  the  summit  of  the 
neighbouring  chain  of  mountains ;  but  it  is  collected  with 
most  advantage  after  the  ground  is  dry  and  the  harvest  re- 
moved. Being  indicated  by  its  reddish  tinge,  it  is  put  intc 
large  baskets,  called  calabashes,  and  agitated  with  a  rotatory 
motion,  so  that  at  every  turn  a  portion  of  light  sand  mixed 
with  water  flies  over  the  brim.  The  weightier  parts  then 
remaining  are  mixed  with  pure  water,  stirred,  and  carefully 
examined  ;  and  it  is  considered  satisfactory  if  three  or  four 
grains  are  found  in  the  whole  basket.  The  dust  is  pre- 
served in  quills,  which  are  often  stuck  in  the  hair  as  orna- 
ments. 

The  most  formidable  part  of  the  journey  homeward  was 
through  the  Jallonka  wilderness,  a  vast  and  very  dense 
forest,  in  which  the  caravan  travelled  during  five  days  with- 
out seeing  a  human  habitation.  They  marched  in  close  and 
regular  order,  to  protect  the  party  against  the  attack  of  wild 
beasts,  whose  roarings  were  heard  continually  around  them, 
and  to  which  every  one  who  straggled  was  sure  to  fall  a 
victim.  Such,  too  probably,  was  the  lot  of  Nealee,  a  female 
slave,  who,  either  from  obstinacy  or  from  excessive  fatigue, 
refused  to  proceed  any  farther ;  and  after  vain  attempts  to 
compel  her  by  the  whip,  she  was  abandoned  to  her  fate. 
On  emerging  from  this  forest,  they  had  no  difficulty  in  pass- 
ing through  the  fine  open  country  of  Dentila,  and  the 
smaller  wilderness  of  Tenda.  Mr.  Park  was  again  on  the 
Gambia;  and  on  the  10th  June,  1797,  reached  Pisania, 
where  he  was  received  as  one  risen  from  the  dead ;  for  all 
the  traders  from  the  interior  had  believed  and  reported,  that, 
like  Major  Houghton,  he  was  murdered  by  the  Moors  of  Lu- 
damar.  Karfa,  his  benefactor,  received  double  the  stipu- 
ated  price,  and  was  overpowered  with  gratitude  ;  but  when 
he  saw  the  commodious  furniture,  the  skilful  manufactures, 
the  superiority  in  all  the  arts  of  life,  displayed  by  the  Eu- 
iopeans,  when  compared  with  the  attaimuents  of  his  coun- 


100      park's  second  journey. 

trymen,  he  was  deeply  mortified,  and  exclaimed,  "Black 
men  are  nothing !"  expressing  his  surprise  that  Park  could 
find  any  motive  for  coming  to  so  miserable  a  land  as  Africa. 
Mr.  Park  had  some  difficulty  in  reaching  home.  He  was 
obliged  to  embark,  on  the  15th  June,  in  a  vessel  bound  to 
America,  and  was  afterward  driven  by  stress  of  weather 
into  the  island  of  Antigua,  whence  he  sailed  on  the  24th 
November,  and  on  the  22d  December  arrived  at  Falmouth. 
He  reached  London  before  dawn  on  the  morning  of  Christ- 
mas-day, and,  in  the  garden  of  the  British  Museum,  acci- 
dentally met  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Dickson.  The  interval 
of  two  years  having  elapsed  since  any  tidings  of  him  reached 
England,  had  caused  him  to  be  given  up  for  lost,  so  that  his 
friends  and  the  public  were  equally  astonished  and  delighted 
by  his  reappearance.  The  report  of  his  unexpected  return, 
after  making  such  splendid  discoveries,  kindled  throughout 
the  nation  a  higher  enthusiasm  than  had  perhaps  been  ex- 
cited by  the  result  of  any  former  mission  of  the  same  nature. 
To  satisfy  the  public  impatience,  an  outline  was  drawn  up 
by  Mr.  Bryan  Edwards,  accompanied  with  learned  and  able 
geographical  illustrations  by  Major  Rennel.  The  entire 
narrative  was  published  early  in  1799,  and  besides  the  in- 
terest inseparable  from  the  remarkable  events  which  it  de- 
scribes, the  merit  of  being  written  in  a  pleasing  and  animated 
style  has  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  popular  books  Id  the 
English  language. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Parle's  Second,  Journey. 


The  discoveries  of  Park,  in  his  first  journey,  though  the 
most  splendid  made  by  any  modem  traveller,  rather  excited 
than  satislied  the  national  curiosity.  The  Niger  had  been 
seen  flowing  eastward  into  the  interior  of  Africa ;  and 
hence  a  still  deeper  interest  and  mystery  were  suspended 
over  the  future  course  and  termination  of  this  great  central 
stream.  Kingdoms  had  been  discovered,  more  flourishing  and 


PARK  S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  101 

more  populous  than  any  formerly  known  in  that  continent ; 
but  other  kingdoms,  still  greater  and  more  wealthy,  were 
reported  to  exist  in  regions  which  he  had  vainly  attempted 
to  reach.  The  lustre  of  his  achievements  had  diftused 
among  the  public  in  general  an  ardour  for  discovery,  which 
was  formerly  confined  to  a  few  enlightened  individuals.  It 
was  evident,  however,  that  the  efforts  of  no  private  asso- 
ciation could  penetrate  the  depths  of  this  vast  continent, 
and  overcome  the  obstacles  presented  by  its  distance,  its  de- 
serts, and  its  barbarism.  Thus  it  became  necessary  for 
George  III.,  the  patron  and  employer  of  Cook,  to  come  for- 
ward as  the  promoter  of  discovery  in  this  new  sphere.  In 
October,  1801,  accordingly,  Mr.  Park  was  invited  by  govern- 
ment to  undertake  an  expedition  on  a  larger  scale  into  the 
interior  of  Africa.  Having  in  the  mean  time  married  the 
daughter  of  Mr.  Anderson,  with  whom  he  had  served  his 
apprenticeship  as  a  surgeon,  and  having  entered  with  some 
success  on  the  practice  of  his  profession  in  the  neighbouring 
town  of  Peebles,  it  was  supposed  that,  content  with  laurels 
so  dearly  earned,  he  had  renounced  a  life  of  peril  and  ad- 
venture. But  none  of  these  ties  could  detain  him,  when 
the  invitation  was  given  to  renew  and  complete  his  splendid 
career.  His  mind  had  been  brooding  on  the  subject  with 
enthusiastic  ardour.  He  had  held  much  intercourse  with 
Mr.  Maxwell,  a  gentleman  who  had  long  commanded  a  ves- 
sel in  the  African  trade,  by  whom  he  was  persuaded  that 
the  Zaire,  or  Congo,  which,  since  its  discovery  by  the  Por- 
tuguese, had  been  almost  lost  sight  of  by  Europeans,  would 
prove  to  be  the  channel  by  which  the  Niger,  after  watering 
all  the  regions  of  Interior  Africa,  enters  the  Atlantic.  The 
scientific  world  were  very  much  disposed  to  adopt  Park's 
views  on  this  subject ;  and  accordingly  the  whole  plan  of  the 
expedition  was  adjusted  with  an  avowed  reference  to  them. 
The  agitation  of  the  public  mind,  by  the  change  of  ministry 
and  the  war  with  France,  delayed  farther  proceedings  till 
1804,  when  he  was  desired  by  Lord  Camden,  the  colonial 
secretary,  to  form  his  arrangements,  with  an  assurance  of 
being  supplied  with  every  means  necessary  for  their  accom- 
plishment. The  course  which  he  now  suggested  was,  that 
he  should  no  longer  travel  as  a  single  and  unprotected  wan- 
derer ;  his  ejcperience  decided  him  against  such  a  mode  of 
proceeding.  He  proposed  to  take  with  him  a  small  party, 
12 


102 

who,  being  well  anned  and  disciplined,  might  face  almost 
any  force  which  the  natives  could  oppose  to  them ;  with 
these  to  proceed  direct  to  Sego  ;  to  build  there  two  boats  40 
feet  long,  and  from  thence  to  sail  downwards  to  the  estuary 
-of  the  Congo.  Instructions  were  sent  out  to  Goree  that  he 
should  be  furnished  liberally  with  men,  and  with  every  thing 
else  of  which  he  might  stand  in  need. 

Mr.  Park  sailed  from  Portsmouth  in  the  Crescent  trans- 
port on  the  30th  January,  1805.  About  the  8th  March  he 
arrived  at  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  ;  and  on  the  28th  reached 
Goree.  There  he  provided  himself  with  an  officer  and 
thirty-five  soldiers,  and  with  a  large  stock  of  asses  from  the 
islands,  where  the  breed  of  these  animals  is  excellent,  and 
which  appeared  well  fitted  for  traversing  the  rugged  hills  of 
the  high  country  whence  issue  the  sources  of  the  Senegal 
and  Niger.  He  took  with  him  also  two  sailors  and  four  ar- 
tificers, who  had  been  sent  from  England.  But  before  all 
these  measures  could  be  completed  a  month  had  elapsed, 
and  it  was  then  evident  that  the  rainy  season  could  not  be 
far  distant, — a  period  in  which  travelling  is  very  difficult, 
and  extremely  trying  to  European  constitutions.  It  is  clear, 
therefore,  that  it  would  have  been  prudent  to  remain  at 
Goree  or  Pisania  till  that  season  had  passed ;  but,  in  Mr. 
Park's  elevated  and  enthusiastic  state  of  mind,  it  would 
have  been  extremely  painful  to  have  lingered  so  long  on  the 
eve  of  his  grand  and  favourite  undertaking.  He  hoped,  and 
it  seemed  possible,  that  before  the  middle  of  June,  when 
the  rains  usually  begin,  he  might  reach  the  Niger,  which 
could  then  be  navigated  without  any  very  serious  toil  or  ex- 
posure. He  departed,  therefore,  with  his  little  band  from 
Pisania,  on  the  4th  May,  and  proceeded  through  Medina, 
along  the  banks  of  the  Gambia.  With  so  strong  a  party, 
he  was  no  longer  dependent  on  the  protection  of  the  petty 
kings  and  mansas ;  but  the  Africans,  seeing  him  so  well 
provided,  thought  he  had  no  longer  any  claim  on  their  hospi- 
tality ;  on  the  contrary,  they  eagerly  seized  every  opportunity 
to  obtain  some  portion  of  the  valuable  articles  which  they 
saw  in  his  possession.  Thefts  were  common  ;  the  kings 
drove  a  hard  bargain  for  presents  :  at  one  place  the  women, 
with  immense  labour,  had  emptied  all  the  wells,  that  they 
might  derive  an  advantage  from  selling  the  water.  Submit- 
ting quietly  to  these  little  annoyances,  Mr.  Park  proceeded 


park's  second  JOtJRNEV.  11)3 

along  the  Gambia,  till  he  saw  it  flowing  from  the  south  be- 
tween the  hills  of  Foota  Jalla  and  a  high  mountain  called 
Muianta.  Turning  his  face  almost  due  west,  he  passed  the 
streams  of  the  Ba  Lee,  the  Ba  Fing,  and  the  Ba  Woollima, 
the  three  principal  tributaries  of  the  Senegal.  This  change 
of  direction  led  him  through  a  tract  much  more  pleasing 
than  that  which  he  passed  in  his  dreary  return  through  Jal- 
lonka  and  its  wilderness.  The  villages,  built  in  delightful 
mountain-glens,  and  looking  from  their  elevated  precipices 
over  a  great  extent  of  wooded  plain,  appeared  romantic  be- 
yond any  thing  he  had  ever  seen.  The  rocks  near  Sullo 
assumed  every  possible  diversity  of  form,  towering  like 
rumed  castles,  spires,  and  pyramids.  One  mass  of  granite 
so  strongly  resembled  the  remains  of  a  Gotiiic  abbey,  with 
its  niches  and  ruined  staircase,  that  it  required  some  time 
to  satisfy  him  that  it  was  composed  wholly  of  natural  stone. 
The  crossing  of  the  rivers,  now  swelled  to  a  considerable 
magnitude,  was  attended  with  many  difficulties  ;  and  in  one 
of  them  Isaaco  the  guide  was  nearly  devoured  by  a  cro- 
codile. 

It  was  near  Satadoo,  soon  after  passing  the  Falene,  that 
the  party  experienced  the  first  tornado,  which,  marking  the 
commencement  of  the  rainy  season,  proved  for  them  "  the 
beginning  of  sorrows."  In  these  tornadoes,  ^'iolent  storms 
of  thunder  and  lightning  are  followed  by  deluges  of  rain, 
which  cover  the  ground  three  feet  deep,  and  have  a  pecu- 
liarly malignant  influence  on  European  constitutions.  In 
three  days  twelve  men  were  on  the  sick  list.  The  natives, 
as  they  saw  the  strength  of  the  expedition  decline,  became 
more  bold  and  frequent  in  their  predatory  attacks.  At  Gim- 
bia  attempts  were  made  to  overpower,  by  main  force,  the 
whole  party,  and  seize  all  they  possessed  ;  but  the  assault 
was  repelled  without  bloodshed,  by  their  merely  presenting 
their  muskets.  At  Maniakarro  the  whole  population  hung 
on  their  rear  for  a  considerable  time,  headed  by  thirty  of  the 
king's  sons  ;  and  great  delicacy  was  felt  as  to  the  mode  of 
dealing  with  these  august  thieves,  so  long  as  their  pioceed- 
ings  were  not  quite  intolerable.  One  of  them  came  up,  and 
engaged  Mr.  Park  in  conversation,  while  another  ran  off 
with  his  fowling-piece  ;  and,  on  his  attempting  pursuit,  the 
first  took  the  opportunity  of  seizing  his  great  coat.  Orders 
were  now  given  to  fire  on  all  depredators,  royal  or  plebeian ; 


104  park's  second  jotjrnet. 

and,  after  a  few  shots  had  been  discharged  without  pro- 
ducing any  fatal  effects,  the  thieves  hid  themselves  among 
the  rocks,  and  were  merely  seen  peeping  through  the  cre- 
vices. 

The  expedition  continued  to  melt  away  beneath  the  deadly 
influence  of  an  African  climate.  Every  day  added  to  the 
list  of  sick  or  dead,  or  of  those  who  declared  themselves 
unable  to  proceed.  Near  Bangassi,  four  men  lay  down  at 
once  ;  it  was  even  with  difficulty  that  Mr.  Park  dragged  for- 
ward his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Anderson,  while  he  himself 
felt  very  sick  and  famt.  His  spirits  were  about  to  sink  en- 
tirely, when,  coming  to  an  eminence,  he  obtained  a  distant 
view  of  the  mountains,  the  southern  base  of  which  he  knew 
to  be  watered  by  the  Niger.  Then  indeed  he  forgot  his 
fever,  and  thought  only  of  climbing  the  blue  hills  which 
delighted  his  eyes. 

But  three  weeks,  during  which  he  experienced  the 
greatest  difficulty  and  suftering,  elapsed  before  he  could 
arrive  at  that  desired  point.  At  length  he  reached  the 
summit  of  the  ridge  which  divides  the  Senegal  from  the 
Niger,  and  coming  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  saw  again  this 
majestic  river  rolling  its  immense  stream  along  the  plain- 
Yet  his  situation  and  prospects  were  gloomy  indeed,  when 
compared  to  those  with  which  he  had  left  the  banks  of  the 
Gambia.  Of  thirty-eight  men  w^iom  he  then  had  with 
him,  there  survived  only  seven,  all  suffering  from  severe 
sickness,  and  some  nearly  at  the  last  extremity.  Still  his 
mind  was  full  of  the  most  sanguine  hope,  especially  when, 
on  the  22d  August,  he  felt  himself  floating  on  the  waters 
of  the  Niger,  and  advancing  towards  the  ultimate  object  of 
his  ambition.  He  hired  canoes  to  convey  hi«  party  to 
Marraboo ;  and  the  river,  here  a  mile  in  breadth,  was  so 
fall  and  so  deep,  that  its  current  carried  him  easily  over  the 
rapids,  but  with  a  rapidity  wliich  was  even  in  a  certain  de- 
gree painful. 

At  Marraboo  he  sent  forward  the  interpreter  Isaaco  to 
Mansong  with  part  of  the  presents,  and  to  treat  with  that 
monarch  for  protection,  as  well  as  for  permission  to  build 
a  boat.  This  envoy  was  absent  several  days,  dunng 
which  great  anxiety  was  felt,  heightened  by  several  unfa- 
vourable rumours,  among  which  was,  that  the  king  had 
lulled  him  with  his  own  hand  and  announced  Ills  purpose 


park's  second  journey*      105 

to  do  tfve  same  to  every  white  man  that  should  come  within 
his  reach.  These  fears  were  dispelled  by  the  appearance 
of  the  royal  singing  man,  who  brought  a  message  of  wel- 
come, with  an  invitation  to  repair  to  Sego,  and  deliver  in 
person  the  remaining  presents  intended  for  the  monarch. 
At  Samee  the  party  met  Isaaco,  who  reported  that  there 
was  something  very  odd  in  the  reception  which  he  had  re- 
ceived from  Mansong.  That  prince  assured  him,  in  ge- 
neral, that  the  expedition  would  be  allowed  to  pass  down 
the  Niger ;  tut  whenever  the  latter  came  to  particulars, 
and  proposed  an  interview  with  Mr.  Park,  the  king  began 
to  draw  squares  and  triangles  with  his  finger  on  the  sand  ; 
and  in  this  geometrical  operation  his  mind  seemed  wholly 
absorbed.  Isaaco  suspected  that  he  laboured  under  some 
superstitious  dread  of  white  men,  and  sought  by  these 
figures  to  defend  himself  against  their  magic  influence.  It 
was  finally  arranged  that  the  presents  should  be  delivered, 
not  to  Mansong  in  person,  but  to  Modibinne,  his  prime 
minister,  who  was  to  come  to  Samee  for  that  purpose.  He 
accordingly  appeared,  and  began  by  requiring,  in  the  king's 
name,  an  explanation  why  Park  had  come  to  Bambarra 
with  so  great  a  train  from  so  distant  a  country, — allowing 
him  a  day  to  prepare  his  reply.  Next  morning  the  tra- 
veller gave  an  answer  in  form,  representing  his  mission  as 
chiefly  commercial,  and  holding  forth  the  advantages  which 
Bambarra  might  reap  by  receiving  European  goods  directly 
from  the  coast,  instead  of  circuitously,  as  now,  through 
Morocco,  the  Desert,  Timbuctoo,  and  Jenne,  having  a  profit 
levied  upon  them  at  every  transfer.  Modibinne  expressed 
satisfaction  both  with  the  reasons  and  with  the  presents  ; 
and  on  his  return  next  day  offered,  on  the  part  of  Man- 
song, the  option  of  building  a  boat  either  at  Samee,  Sego, 
Sansanding,  or  Jenne.  Park  chose  Sansanding,  thus  en- 
abling the  king  to  avoid  a  personal  interview  with  the  Eu- 
ropeans, of  which  he  seemed  to  entertain  so  mysterious  a 
dread. 

The  voyage  dovpn  the  river  was  distressing  ;  for,  though 
the  fatigue  of  travelling  was  avoided,  the  heat  was  so  in- 
tense that  it  was  thought  suflicient  to  have  roasted  a  sirloin : 
and  the  sick  had  thus  no  chance  of  recovery.  Sansanding 
was  found  a  prosperous  and  flourishing  town,  with  a  crowded 
Cnarket  remarkably  well-arranged.     The  leading  articles, 


106      park's  second  journey. 

which  were  cloth  of  Houssa  or  Jenne,  antimony,  beads, 
»nd  indigo,  were  each  arranged  in  stalls,  shaded  by  mata 
from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  There  was  a  separate  market 
for  salt,  the  main  staple  of  their  trade.  The  whole  pre- 
sented a  scene  of  commercial  order  and  activity  totally  un- 
look^ed  for  in  the  interior  of  Africa. 

Mansong  had  promised  to  furnish  two  boats  ;  but  they 
were  late  in  arriving,  and  proved  very  defective.  In  order 
to  raise  money,  it  was  necessary  to  sell  a  considerable 
quantity  of  goods.  Nor  was  it  without  much  trouble  that 
the  two  skiffs  were  finally  converted  into  the  schooner  Jo- 
liba,  forty  feet  long,  six  broad,  and  drawing  only  one  foot 
of  water,  the  fittest  form  for  navigating  the  Niger  down- 
ward to  the  ocean. 

During  Park's  stay  at  Sansanding  he  had  the  misfortune 
to  lose  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Anderson,  to  whom  his  at- 
tachment was  so  strong  as  to  make  him  say, — "  No  ev«nt 
which  took  place  during  the  journey  ever  threw  the 
smallest  gloom  over  my  mind  till  I  laid  Mr.  Anderson  in 
the  grave.  I  then  felt  myself  as  if  left  a  second  time  lonely 
and  friendless  amid  the  wilds  of  Africa."  Though  the 
party  was  now  reduced  to  five  Europeans,  one  of  whom 
was  deranged,  and  though  the  most  gloomy  anticipations 
could  not  fail  to  arise  in  the  mind  of  our  traveller,  his  firm- 
ness was  in  no  degree  shaken.  He  announced  to  Lord 
Camden  his  fixed  purpose  to  discover  the  termination  of  the 
Niger,  or  to  perish  in  the  attempt ;  adding,  "  Though  all 
the  Europeans  who  are  with  me  should  die,  and  though  I 
were  myself  half-dead,  I  would  still  persevere."  To  Mrs. 
Park  he  announced  the  same  determination,  combined  with 
an  undoubting  confidence  of  success  ;  and  the  commence- 
ment of  his  voyage  down  the  Niger,  through  the  vast  un- 
known regions  of  Interior  Africa,  he  called  "  turning  his 
face  towards  England." 

It  was  on  the  17th  November,  1805,  that  Park  set  sail 
on  his  last  and  fatal  voyage.  A  long  interval  elapsed  with- 
out any  tidings,  which,  considering  the  great  distance  and 
the  many  causes  of  delay,  did  not  at  first  excite  alarm  in 
his  friends.  As  the  following  year,  however,  passed  on, 
rumours  of  an  unpleasant  nature  began  to  prevail.  Alarmed 
ty  tliese,  and  feeling  a  deep  interest  in  his  fate,  Governor 
Maxwell  of  Sierr^i  Leone  engaged  Isaaco  the  guide,  wha 


PARK'S  SECOND  JOURNEV.         107 

had  been  sent  to  the  Gambia  with  despatches  from  the 
Niger,  to  undertake  a  fresh  journey  to  inquire  after  him. 
At  Sansanding,  Isaaco  was  so  far  fortunate  as  to  meet 
Amadi  Fatouma,  who  had  been  engaged  to  succeed  him- 
self as  interpreter.     From  him  he  received  a  journal  pur- 
porting to  contain  the  narrative  of  the  voyage  down  the 
river,  and  of  its  final  issue.     The  party,  it  would  appear, 
had  purchased  three  slaves,  who,  with  the  five  Europeans 
and   Fatouma,   increased  their   number   to   nine.     They 
passed  Silla  and  Jenne  in  a  friendly  manner ;  but  at  Rak- 
bara  (Kabra)  and  Timbuctoo  several  armed  parties  came 
out  to  attack  them,  w  ho  were  repelled  only  by  a  smart  and 
destructive  fire.     No  particulars  are  given  of  any  of  those 
important  places ;    nor  of  Kaffo,   Gotoijege,  and   others, 
which  the  discoverers  are  represented  as  having  afterward 
passed.     At  length  they  came  to  the  village  (more  properly 
city)  of  Yaour,  where  Amadi  Fatouma  left  the  party,  his 
services  having  been  engaged  only  to  that  point.     He  had, 
however,  scarcely  taken  his  leave,  when  he  was  summoned 
before  the  king,  who  bitterly  complained  that  the  white 
men,  though  they  brought  many  valuable  commodities  with 
them,  had  passed  without  giving  him  any  presents.     He 
therefore   ordered   that   Fatouma  should  be   thrown  into 
irons,  and  a  body  of  troops  sent  in  pursuit  of  the  English. 
These  men  reached  Boussa,  and  took  possession  of  a  pass, 
where  rocks,  hemming  in  the  river,  allow  only  a  narrow 
channel  for  vessels  to  descend.     When  Park  arrived,  he 
found  the  passage  thus  obstructed,  but  attempted,  never- 
theless, to  push  his  way  through.     "  The  people  began  to 
attack  him,  throwing  lances,  pikes,  arrows,  and  stones.     He 
defended  himself  for  a  long  time  ;  when  two  of  his  slaves 
at  the  stem  of  the  canoe  were  killed.     The  crew  threw 
every  thing  they   had  into   the   river,   and  kept   firing ; 
but  being  overpowered  by  numbers  and  fatigue,  and  unable 
to  keep  up  the  canoe  against  the  current,  and  seeing  no 
probability  of  escaping,  Mr.  Park  took  hold  of  one  of  the 
white  men,  and  jumped  into  the  water.     Martyn  did  the 
same,  and  they  were  all  drowned  in  the  stream  in  attempt- 
ing to  escape.     The  only  slave  that  remained  in  the  boat, 
seeing  the  natives  persist  in  throwing  weapons   into   it 
without  ceasing,  stood  up  and  said  to  them, — '  Stop  throw- 
ing now ;  you  see  nothing  in  the  canoe,  and  nobody  but 


108  HORNEMAN. 

myself;  therefore  cease.  Take  me  and  the  canoe,  but 
don't  kill  me.'  They  took  possession  of  both,  and  carried 
them  to  the  king." 

These  sad  tidings,  conveyed  in  course  to  England,  were 
not  for  a  long  time  received  with  general  belief.  The  state- 
ment, being  sifted  with  care,  was  thought  to  contain  incon- 
sistencies, as  well  as  such  a  degree  of  improbability  as  left 
some  room  for  hope.  But,  as  year  after  year  elapsed,  this 
hope  died  away;  and  Denham  and  Clapperton,  in  their 
late  expedition,  received  accounts  from  various  quarters 
which  very  nearly  coincided  with  those  of  Amadi  Fatouma. 
Park's  adventures,  they  found,  had  excited  the  deepest  in- 
terest throughout  Africa.  Clapperton  in  his  last  journey 
even  saw  the  spot  where  he  perished,  which,  allowing  for 
some  exaggeration,  did  not  ill  correspond  with  the  descrip- 
tion just  given.  Nay,  he  received  notice,  as  we  shall  here- 
after see,  that  Park's  manuscripts  were  in  the  possession 
of  the  king  or  chief  of  Yaour  or  Youri,  who  offered  to  de- 
liver them  up  on  cordition  that  the  captain  would  pay  him 
a  visit,  which  he  unfortunately  was  never  able  to  perform. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Various  Travellers — Hornemanf  Nichollsy  Roentgen^  Adams, 
Riley. 

It  has  been  thought  advisable  to  trace  without  interrup. 
tion  the  interesting  career  of  Park  from  its  commencement 
to  its  close.  Between  his  two  expeditions,  however,  there 
intervened  another,  which  appeared  to  open  under  very 
favourable  auspices.  Frederic  Homeman,  a  student  of  the 
university  of  Gottingen,  communicated  to  Blumenbach,  the 
celebrated  professor  of  natural  history,  his  ardent  desire  to 
explore  the  interior  of  Africa  under  the  auspices  of  the  As- 
sociation. Blumenbach  transmitted  to  that  body  a  strong 
recommendation  of  Homeman,  as  a  young  man,  active, 
athletic,  temperate,  knowing  sickness  only  by  name,  and 
of  respectable  Jiterary   and   scientific    attaiiunents.      Sij 


HORNEMAN.  109 

Joseph  Banks  immediately  wrote,  "  If  Mr.  Homeman  be 
really  the  character  you  describe,  he  is  the  very  person 
whom  we  are  in  search  of."  On  receiving  this  encourage- 
ment,  Homeman  immediately  applied  his  mind  to  the  study 
of  natural  history  and  the  Arabic  language,  and  otherwise 
sought  to  fit  himself  for  supporting  the  character,  which  he 
intended  to  assume,  of  an  Arab  and  a  Moslem,  under  which 
he  hoped  to  escape  the  effects  of  that  ferocious  bigotry 
which  had  opposed  so  fatal  a  bar  to  the  progress  of  his  pre- 
decessors. 

In  May,  1797,  Homeman  repaired  to  London,  where  his 
appointment  was  sanctioned  by  the  Association  ;  and  hav- 
ing obtained  a  passport  from  the  Directory,  who  then 
governed  France,  he  visited  Paris,  and  was  introduced 
to  some  leading  members  of  the  National  Institute.  He 
reached  Egypt  in  September,  spent  ten  days  at  Alexan- 
dria, and  set  out  for  Cairo,  to  wait  the  departure  of  the 
Rashna  caravan.  The  interval  was  employed  in  acquiring 
the  language  of  the  Mograbin  Arabs,  a  tribe  bordering  on 
Egypt.  While  he  was  at  Cairo,  tidings  arrived  of  Buona- 
parte's having  landed  in  that  country,  when  the  just  indig- 
nation of  the  natives  vented  itself  upon  all  Europeans,  and 
among  others  on  Horneman,  who  was  arrested  and  con- 
fined in  the  castle.  He  was  relieved  upon  the  victorious 
entry  of  the  French  commander,  who  immediately  set  him 
at  liberty,  and  very  liberally  offered  money  and  every  other 
supply  which  might  contribute  to  the  success  of  his  mission. 

It  was  the  5th  of  September,  1798,  before  Horneman 
could  find  a  caravan  proceeding  to  the  westward,  when  he 
joined  the  one  destined  for  Fezzan.  The  travellers  soon 
passed  the  cultivated  land  of  Egypt,  and  entered  on  an  ex- 
panse of  sandy  waste,  such  as  the  bottom  of  the  ocean 
might  exhibit  if  the  waters  were  to  retire.  This  desert 
was  covered  with  the  fragments,  as  it  were,  of  a  petrified 
forest ;  large  trunks,  branches,  twigs,  and  even  pieces  of 
bark,  being  scattered  over  it.  Sometimes  these  stony  remains 
were  brought  in  by  mistake  as  fuel.  When  the  caravan  halted 
for  the  night,  each  individual  dug  a  hole  in  the  sand,  gathered 
a  few  sticks,  and  prepared  his  victuals  after  the  African 
fashion  of  kouskous,  soups,  or  puddings.  Horneman,  ac- 
cording to  his  European  habits,  at  first  employed  the  ser- 
vices of  another ;  but  finding  himself  thus  exposed  to  con- 
K 


1 J  0  HORNEMAN. 

lempt  or  suspicion,  he  soon  followed  the  example  of  tlM 
rest,  and  became  his  own  cook. 

There  are  as  usual  oases,  or  verdant  spots,  in  this  im- 
mense waste.  Ten  days  brought  the  caravan  to  Ummeso- 
geir,  a  village  situated  on  a  rock,  with  a  hundred  and  twenty- 
inhabitants,  who,  separated  by  sucli  immense  deserts  from 
the  rest  of  the  world,  pass  a  peaceful  and  hospitable  life, 
subsistinor  on  dates,  the  chief  produce  of  their  arid  soil. 

Another  day's  journey  brought  them  to  Siwah,  a  much 
more  extensive  oasis,  the  rocky  border  of  which  is  estimated 
by  Homeman  to  be  fifty  miles  in  circumference.     It  yields, 
with  little  culture,  various  descriptions  of  grain  and  vege- 
tables ;  but  its  wealth  consists  chiefly  in  large  gardens  of 
dates,  baskets  of  which  fruit  form  here  the  standard  of  va- 
lue.    The  government  is  vested  in  a  very  turbulent  aristo- 
cracy of  about  thirty  chiefs,  who  meet  in  council  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  town-wall,  and,  in  the  contests  which  frequently 
arise,  make  violent  and  sudden  appeals  to  arms.     The  chief 
question  in  respect  to  Siwah  is,  whether  it  does  or  does  not 
comprise  the  site  of  the  celebrated  shrine  of  Jupiter  Ammon 
— that  object  of  awful  veneration  to  the  nations  of  antiquity, 
and  which  Alexander  himself,  the  greatest  of  its  heroes, 
underwent  excessive  toil  and  peril  to  Adsit  and  to  associato 
with  his  name.     This  territory  does  in  fact  contain  springs, 
a  small  edifice  with  walls  six  feet  thick,  partly  painted  and 
adorned  with  hieroglyphics.     There  are  also  antique  tombs 
in  the  neighbouring  mountains  ;  but  as  the  subsequent  dis- 
coveries of  Belzoni  and  Edmonston  have  proved  that  all 
these  features  exist  in  other  oases  scattered  in  different  di- 
rections along  the  desert  borders  of  Egypt,  some  uncer- 
tainty must  perhaps  for  ever  rest  on  this  curious  question. 
The  route  now  passed  through  a  region  still  indeed  bar- 
ren, yet  not  presenting  such  a  monotonous  plain  of  sand  as 
intervenes  between  Egjpt  and  Siwah.     It  was  bordered  by 
precipitous    limestone  rocks,  often  completely  filled  with 
shells  and  marine  remains.     The  caravan,  while  proceeding 
along  these  wild  tracts,  were  alarmed  by  a  tremendous 
braying  of  asses  ;  and,  on  looking  back,  saw  several  hun- 
dreds of  the  people  of  Siwah  armed  and  in  full  pursuit, 
mounted  on  these  useful  animals.     The  scouts,  however, 
soon  brought  an  assurance  that  they  came  with  intention* 
perfectly  peaceable,  having  merely  understood  that  in  the 


HORNEMAN.  1 1 1 

caravan  there  were  two  Christians  from  Cairo  ;  on  being 
allowed  to  kill  whom,  they  would  permit  the  others  to  pro- 
ceed unmolested.  All  Homeman's  address  and  firmness 
were  required  in  this  fearful  crisis.  He  opposed  the  most 
resolute  denial  to  the  assertions  of  the  Siwahans ;  he 
opened  the  Koran,  and  displayed  the  facility  with  which  he 
could  read  its  pages  ;  he  even  challenged  his  adversaries  to 
answer  him  on  points  of  Mohammedan  faith.  His  compa- 
nions in  the  caravan,  who  took  a  pride  in  defending  one  of 
their  members,  insisted  that  he  had  cleared  himself  tho- 
roughly from  the  imputation  of  being  an  infidel ;  and  as 
they  were  joined  by  several  of  the  Siwahans,  the  whole 
body  finally  renounced  their  bloody  purpose,  and  returned 
home. 

The  travellers  next  passed  through  Augila,  a  town  so 
ancient  as  to  be  mentioned  by  Herodotus  ;  but  now  small, 
dirty,  and  supported  solely  by  the  passage  of  the  inland 
trade.  They  then  entered  the  Black  Harutsch,  a  long 
range  of  dreary  mountains  {Mons  Ater  of  the  ancients), 
through  the  successive  defiles  of  which  they  found  only  a 
narrow  tract  enclosed  by  rugged  steeps  and  obstructed  by 
loose  stones*  Every  valley,  too,  and  ra\ine  into  which 
they  looked  appeared  still  more  wild  and  desolate  than 
the  road  itself.  A  gayer  scene  succeeded  when  they  en- 
tered the  district  of  limestone  mountains  called  the  White 
Harutsch.  The  rocks  and  stones  here  appeared  as  if 
glazed,  and  abounded  in  shells  and  other  marine  petrifac- 
tions, which,  on  being  broken,  had  a  vitrified  appearance. 

After  a  painful  route  of  sixteen  days  through  this  solitary 
region,  the  travellers  were  cheered  by  seeing  before  them 
the  Great  Oasis,  or  small  kingdom  of  Fezzan.  Both  at 
Temissa,  the  first  frontier  town,  and  at  Zuila,  the  ancient 
capital,  which  is  still  inhabited  by  many  rich  merchants, 
they  were  received  with  rapturous  demonstrations  of  joy. 
The  arrival  of  a  caravan  is  the  chief  event  which  diversifies 
the  existence  of  the  Fezzaners,  and  diflfuses  through  the 
country  animation  and  wealth.  At  Mourzouk,  the  modem 
capital,  the  reception  was  more  solemn  and  pompous.  The 
sultan  himself  awaited  their  arrival  on  a  small  eminence, 
seated  in  an  arm-chair  ornamented  with  cloth  of  various 
colours,  and  forming  a  species  of  throne.  Each  pilgrim, 
Qjx  approaching  the  royal  seat,  took  oS  his  sandals,  kissed 


112  HORNEMAN. 

the  soMereign's  hand,  and  took  his  station  behind,  where  the 
whole  assembly  joined  in  a  chant  of  pious  gratitude. 

Ffzzan,  according  to  Horneman,  has  a  length  of  300  and 
a  breadth  of  200  miles,  and  is  much  the  largest  of  all  the 
oases  which  enliven  the  immense  desert  of  northern  Africa. 
It  relieves  however,  in  only  an  imperfect  degree,  the  parched 
appearance  of  the  surrounding  region.  It  is  not  irrigated 
by  a  river  or  even  a  streamlet  of  any  dimensions  ;  the  grain 
produced  is  insufficient  for  its  small  population,  supposed 
to  amount  to  70,000  or  75,000  inhabitants  ;  and  few  animals 
are  reared  except  the  ass,  the  goat,  and  the  camel.  Dates, 
as  in  all  this  species  of  territory,  form  the  chief  article  of 
land  produce  ;  but  Fezzan  derives  its  main  importance  from 
being  the  centre  of  that  mimense  traffic  which  gives  activity 
and  wealth  to  Interior  Africa.  Mourzouk,  in  the  dry  sea- 
son, forms  a  rendezvous  for  the  caravans  proceeding  from 
Egypt,  Morocco,  and  Tripoli  to  the  great  countries  wa- 
tered by  the  western  rivers.  Yet  the  trade  is  carried  on 
less  by  the  inhabitants  themselves  than  by  the  Tibboos,  the 
Tuaricks,  and  other  wandering  tribes  of  the  desert,  con- 
cerning whom  our  traveller  collected  some  information,  but 
less  ample  than  Lyon  and  Denham  afterward  obtained 
from  personal  observation.  Of  Timbuctoo  he  did  not  learn 
much,  Morocco  being  the  chief  quarter  whence  cara- 
vans proceed  to  that  celebrated  seat  of  African  commerce. 
But  respecting  the  eastern  part  of  Soudan  he  received  in- 
telligence more  accurate  than  had  hitherto  reached  Europe. 
Houssa  was  for  the  first  time  understood  to  be,  not  a  single 
country  or  city,  but  a  region  comprehending  many  king- 
doms, the  people  of  which  are  said  to  be  the  handsomest, 
most  industrious,  and  most  intelligent  in  that  part  of  Africa, 
being  particularly  distinguished  for  their  manufacture  of 
fine  cloths.  Among  the  states  mentioned  were  Kashna, 
Kano,  Daura,  Solan,  Noro,  NyfTee,  Cabi,  Zanfara,  and 
Guba.  Most  or  all  of  these  were  tributary  to  Bornou, 
which  is  decidedly  the  most  powerful  kingdom  in  Central 
Africa  ;  and  it  was  so  regarded  even  before  the  rise  of  the 
Fellatah  empire,  which  has  caused,  in  this  respect,  a  re- 
markable change.  The  Niger,  according  to  the  unanimous 
belief  in  the  northern  provinces,  was  described  as  flowing 
from  Timbuctoo  eastward  through  Houssa,  and  holding  the 
same  direction  till  it  joined  or  rather  became  the  Bahr-el- 


HORNEMAN.  113 

Abiatl,  the  main  stream  of  the  Egyptian  Nile.  Prevalent 
as  this  belief  is  among  the  Arabs,  late  discoveries  have 
proved  it  to  be  entirely  erroneous  ;  the  river  or  rivers  which 
water  Houssa  being  wholly  distinct  from  that  great  stream 
which  flows  through  Bambarra  and  Timbuctoo. 

Horneman,  after  remaining  some  tune  at  Mourzoulc,  had 
resolved  to  join  a  caravan  which  was  about  to  proceed  south- 
Wards  into  the  interior ;  when,  observing  that  the  cavalcade 
consisted  ahnost  wholly  of  black  traders,  any  connexion  or 
intercourse  with  whom  was  likely  to  afford  him  little  favour 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Moors,  he  was  induced  to  forego  this  pur- 
pose,— more  especially  as  there  was  the  greatest  reason  to 
apprehend  obstruction  in  passing  through  the  country  of 
the  Tuaricks,  who  were  then  at  war  with  Fezzan.  He  was 
informed,  besides,  that  caravans  from  Bomou  occasionally 
terminated  their  journey  at  Mourzouk,  again  returning 
south  ;  by  which,  at  a  future  period  and  under  more  propi^ 
tious  circumstances,  he  hoped  to  have  an  opportunity  of 
accomplishing  his  object.  These  considerations  determined 
him  to  postpone  his  departure  into  the  interior,  resolving  in 
the  mean  while,  with  the  view  of  forwarding  his  despatches 
to  the  Association,  to  visit  Tripoli ;  where,  however,  he  did 
not  arrive  till  the  19th  August,  1799,  having  been  detained 
a  considerable  time  by  sickness.  After  remainmg  in  this 
city  about  three  months,  he  again  returned  to  Mourzouk ; 
nor  was  it  till  the  6th  April,  1800,  that  he  departed  thence 
for  the  southward,  in  company  with  two  shereefs,  or  de- 
scendants of  Mohammed,  who  had  given  him  assurances  of 
friendship  and  protection.  His  letters  were  filled  with  the 
most  sanguine  hopes  of  success.  But  the  lapse  of  two 
years  without  any  tidings  threw  a  damp  on  the  cheering 
expectations  thus  raised  in  the  Association  and  the  public. 
In  September,  1803,  a  Fezzan  merchant  informed  Mr.  Nis- 
sen,  the  Danish  consul  at  Tripoli,  that  Yussuph,  as  Horne- 
man had  chosen  to  designate  himself,  was  seen  alive  and 
well  on  his  way  to  Gondasch,  with  the  intention  of  pro- 
ceeding to  the  coast  and  of  returning  to  Europe.  Another 
Moorish  merchant  afterward  informed  Mr.  M'Donough, 
British  consul  at  Tripoli,  that  Yussuph  was  in  safety  at 
Kashna  in  June,  1803,  and  was  there  highly  respected  as  a 
Mussulnian  marabout  or  saint.  Major  Denham  afterward 
Jeamed  that  he  had  penetrated  acrgss  Africa  as  far  as  Nyffo 
K3 


114  NICHOLLS— ROENTGEN. 

on  the  Niger,  where  he  fell  a  victim,  not  to  any  hostility  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  but  to  disease  and  the  climate.  A 
young  man  vras  even  met  with,  who  professed  to  be  his  son, 
though  there  was  some  doubt  as  to  the  grounds  of  his  claim 
to  that  character. 

The  Association,  when  their  hopes  from  Homeman  had 
failed,  began  to  look  round  for  other  instruments  ;  and  there 
was  still  a  number  of  active  and  daring  spirits  ready  to 
brave  the  dangers  with  which  this  undertaking  was  sur- 
rounded. Mr.  NichoUs,  in  1804,  repaired  to  Calabar,  in 
the  Gulf  of  Benin,  with  the  view  of  penetrating  into  the 
interior  by  this  route,  which  appeared  shorter  than  any 
other.  He  was  well  received  by  the  chiefs  on  that  coast, 
but  could  not  gain  much  intelligence  respecting  the  Niger, 
being  informed  that  most  of  the  slaves  came  from  the  west, 
and  that  the  navigation  of  the  river,  at  no  great  distance, 
was  mterrupted  by  an  immense  waterfall,  beyond  which  the 
surface  of  the  country  became  very  elevated.  Unfortu- 
nately, of  all  the  sickly  climates  of  Africa  this  is  perhaps 
the  most  pestilential ;  and  Mr.  NichoUs,  even  before  he  had 
commenced  his  journey  fell  a  victim  to  the  epidemic  fever. 

Another  German,  named  Roentgen,  recommended  also 
by  Professor  Blumenbach,  undertook  to  penetrate  into  the 
interior  of  Africa  by  the  way  of  Morocco.  He  was  de- 
scribed as  possessing  an  unblemished  character,  ardent  zeal 
in  the  cause,  with  great  strength  both  of  mind  and  body. 
Like  Homeman,  he  made  hunself  master  of  Arabic,  and 
proposed  to  pass  for  a  Mohammedan.  Having,  in  1809, 
arrived  at  Mogadore,  he  hired  two  guides,  and  set  out  to 
join  the  Soudan  caravan.  But  his  career  was  short  indeed ; 
for  soon  afterward  his  body  was  found  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  place  whence  he  set  out.  No  infonnation  could 
ever  be  obtained  as  to  the  particulars  of  his  death  ;  but  it 
was,  too  probably,  conjectured  that  his  guides  had  murdered 
him  with  the  view  of  seizing  his  property. 

The  public  mind,  meantime,  continued  fixed  with  intense 
interest  on  Africa,  and  eveiy  channel  by  which  even  the 
most  imperfect  information  respecting  it  could  be  obtained 
was  carefully  examined.  Much  attention  was  at  one  time 
excited  by  tidings  derived  even  from  a  foreign  and  rather 
doubtful  source.  The  African  coast  from  Morocco  to  the 
Senegiil  is  singularly  perilous,  beset  with  numerous  sand- 


ADAMS.  115 

bwiks,  and  without  either  port  or  shelter.  On  one  of  thesa 
banks  the  American  ship  Charles  struck  on  the  morning 
of  11th  October,  1810,  and  was  so  surrounded  by  breakers 
as  to  leave  no  hope  of  escaping  a  total  wreck.  The  sailors 
swam  ashore,  but  soon  after  daybreak  were  attacked  by  a 
band  of  Moors,  a  race  ever  on  the  watch  for  plunder.  The 
captain  was  killed,  apparently  in  consequence  of  rash  and 
violent  behaviour  ;  but  the  crew  were  taken  prisoners,  and 
divided  among  the  captors.  Adams,  one  of  the  sailors,  ac- 
cording to  his  own  statement,  was  carried  to  the  border  of 
Bambarra,  where  the  Moors,  who,  by  the  practice  of  slave- 
stealing,  had  roused  the  hostility  of  the  natives,  were  sur- 
prised, made  captive,  and,  after  four  days'  confinement, 
marched  to  Timbuctoo.  The  companions  of  Adams,  after 
being  presented  to  the  king,  were  thrown  into  prison  ;  but 
he  himself,  being  regarded  as  a  curiosity,  was  retained  in 
the  palace,  where  he  became  a  particular  favourite  of  the 
queen,  who  used  to  sit  gazing  at  him  for  hours.  He  re- 
mained there  six  months,  well  treated,  and  even  caressed, 
when  a  party  of  Moorish  traders  arrived,  ransomed  their 
countrymen,  and  Adams  along  with  them.  The  caravan 
reached  Taudeny  m  thirteen  days ;  after  which  it  was 
obliged  to  march  twenty-nine  da3'^s  over  a  tract  of  desert, 
where  there  was  neither  plant  nor  shrub,  a  blade  of  grass, 
nor  a  drop  of  water.  Finding  the  spring  dry,  the  prospect 
of  which  had  sustained  their  hope,  they  gave  way  to  the 
deepest  despair ;  some  perished,  and  the  rest  dispersed  in 
search  of  water.  Adams,  having  reached  Ved  Duleem,  fell 
again  under  the  power  of  the  wild  wanderers  of  the  desert, 
and  was  carried  from  place  to  place,  suffering  extreme  hard- 
ships ;  but  at  length  he  found,  at  Wedinoon,  three  of  his 
old  shipmates,  who,  like  himself,  were  immediately  libe-. 
rated  by  the  humane  interposition  of  M.  Dupuis,  British 
consul  at  Mogadore.  He  proceeded  thence  to  London,  in 
the  \aew  of  obtaining  a  passage  for  America,  and  was  found 
in  the  streets  of  that  capital  by  a  gentleman  who  took  a 
deep  interest  in  African  affairs,  and  who  communicated  the 
fact  to  Mr.  Cox,  secretary  to  the  Association.  Adams  was 
then  strictly  examined,  and  his  statements  taken  down  in 
writing;  while  M.  Dupuis,  the  consul,  who  happened  to  be 
in  London,  confirmed  the  general  fact  of  the  shipwreck  and 
captivity.    Hence  there  appeared  little  room  to  doubt  the 


116  ADAMS. 

correctness  of  his  relation.  The  remarks,  however,  of 
M.  Graberg  de  Hemso,  Swedish  consul  at  Tripoli,  lately 
given  in  the  Foreign  Review,  seem  to  justify  the  suspicion 
that  this  narrative  was  in  the  main  fictitious  ;  that  though 
Adams  was  cast  ashore  on  the  Sahara,  it  was  in  1811  in- 
stead of  1810,  as  he  asserted  ;  that  he  never  was  south  of 
Cape  Blanco,  and  could  not  therefore  have  known  Tim- 
buctoo  except  by  report.  His  real  name,  besides,  was 
Benjamin  Rose.  At  all  events,  he  appears  to  have  made 
diligent  inquiries  as  to  the  state  of  the  country ;  and  his 
details,  accordingly,  as  corrected  by  M.  Dupuis,  have  en- 
abled the  pubhc  to  form  a  pretty  accurate  opinion  respect- 
ing Tirabuctoo. 

The  picture  drawn  by  him  of  this  city  was  different  from, 
and  in  many  respects  quite  the  reverse  of,  that  hitherto 
presented  to  Europeans.  There  is  said  to  exist  nothing 
of  that  uncontrolled  sway  and  fierce  intolerance  of  the 
Moors,  the  belief  of  which  was  so  strongly  impressed  upon 
Park.  On  the  contrary,  the  king,  and  all  his  principal  offi- 
cers were  negroes ;  the  few  religious  ceremonies  observed 
were  pagan  ;  and  the  Moors  were  allowed  to  enter  the  town 
only  in  small  numbers,  and  under  very  rigid  restrictions. 
This  statement,  which  appeared  at  first  improbable,  has, 
however,  been  confirmed  by  subsequent  accounts.  The 
rumours  that  intolerance  prevailed  to  such  an  extent  in 
this  seat  of  trade  were,  we  may  presume,  exaggerated  from 
the  very  first ;  but  L'Hagi  Mohammed,  a  resident  at  the 
well  of  Aroan,  told  M.  Cahill  of  Rabat,  that,  subsequently 
to  Mr.  Park's  first  journey,  the  king  of  Bambarra  had  con- 
quered Timbuctoo,  and  established  there  a  negro  govern- 
ment. This  is  confirmed  by  Mr.  Jackson,  and  agrees  also 
with  the  report  which  we  shall  find  to  be  given  by  Riley. 
The  description  of  that  city,  again,  corresponded  very  little 
with  the  ideas  formerly  entertained  of  its  pomp  and  splen- 
dour. The  most  spacious  mansions  could  scarcely  rank 
above  huts,  being  composed  of  timber  frames  filled  with 
earth,  and  only  one  story  high  ;  while  the  habitations  of 
the  lower  orders  were  formed  by  putting  together  branches 
of  trees,  and  covering  them  with  mats  made  of  the  pal- 
metto. Even  the  king's  palace,  or  citadel,  was  represented 
as  only  'a  collection  of  apartments  on  the  ground  floor,  en- 
closed by  a  mud  wail.     This,  iii  fact,  is  an  exact  descrip- 


RILEY.  117 

tion  of  all  the  African  cities,  where  lofty  structures  of  solid 
stone,  in  which  consists  the  magnificence  of  European  ca- 
pitals, are  totally  unknown.  The  queen,  immensely  fat, 
»vras  rather  splendidly  dressed  in  blue  nankeen  (the  fine  cot- 
ton cloth  of  the  country  dyed  with  indigo)  edged  with  gold 
lace,  and  was  lavishly  ornamented  with  necklaces  and  ear- 
rings of  gold.  The  inhabitants,  like  most  negroes,  were 
good-humoured,  extremely  gay,  somewhat  dissolute,  and 
passionat-ely  fond  of  dancing,  in  which  they  spent  great 
part  of  the  night.  Yet  they  had  furious  quarrels,  in  de- 
ciding which  they  employed,  with  desperation,  not  the  fist 
only,  but  even  the  teeth.  Slaves,  the  commodity  always 
most  eagerly  sought  after  by  the  Moors,  were  procured  by 
those  marauding  expeditions  which  are  the  disgrace  and 
scourge  of  Central  Africa.  The  citizens  were  accustomed 
to  set  out  monthly  in  parties  of  from  one  to  five  hundred, 
and  usually  returned  with  a  large  supply.  Slavery  is, 
moreover,  the  punishment  for  all  offences  of  great  magni- 
tude, though  it  is  not  very  frequently  inflicted. 

James  Riley,  supercargo  of  the  American  brig  Commerce, 
sailing  from  Gibraltar  to  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands,  found 
himself  suddenly  involved  in  fog  and  tempest.  On  the  28th 
August,  1815,  the  vessel  ran  aground  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Cape  Bojador.  The  crew,  on  landing,  were  assailed  by 
a  small  band  of  armed  natives,  whose  appearance  indicated 
the  utmost  degree  of  poverty  and  ferocity.  They  began 
forthwith  an  indiscriminate  plunder,  emptied  trunks,  boxes, 
and  casks,  cut  open  the  beds,  and  amused  themselves  with 
seeing  the  feathers  fly  before  the  wind.  The  sailors,  in  the 
mean  while,  were  endeavouring  to  patch  up  their  long-boat 
as  a  means  of  escape,  but  were  greatly  mortified,  on  the  ap- 
proach of  dawn,  to  observe  from  their  shattered  wreck,  on 
which  they  had  passed  a  melancholy  night,  a  much  more 
numerous  band  of  these  merciless  savages.  By  perfidious 
gestures  addressed  to  the  captain,  whom  they  had  recognised 
as  commander,  they  now  induced  Mr.  Riley  to  land  ;  upon 
which  they  put  their  daggers  to  his  breast.  He  contrived, 
however,  by  stratagem,  to  make  his  escape  to  the  long-boat 
which  was  attached  to  the  ship,  when  the  crew  immediately 
pushed  out  to  sea,  resolved  to  brave  all  the  dangers  of  that 
element.  Accordingly  they  worked  a  little  way  along  the 
shore,  incessantly  employed  in  baling  their  crazy  bark ;  but 


118  RILEY. 

as  the  leaks  increased,  while  provisions  and  water  failed, 
Riley  and  his  men  came  to  the  conclusion,  that  by  remain- 
ing at  sea  they  must  perish,  and  on  land  they  could  do  no 
more.  They  retouched  the  coast  near  Cape  Barbas  on  the 
8th  September,  but  finding  it  to  consist  of  perpendicular 
rocks,  they  walked  four  miles,  and  finally  clambered  up 
broken  fragments,  almost  at  the  risk  of  life,  ere  they  could 
reach  the  summit.  But  what  a  scene  was  there  presented! 
Before  them  extended  an  immeasurable  plain,  without  a 
shrub,  plant,  or  a  blade  of  grass ;  nothing  that  even  for  a 
moment  could  support  human  life.  They  fell  to  the  ground, 
exclaiming,  "'Tis  enough! — here  we  must  breathe  our 
last  I"  From  such  utter  despair  even  the  horrors  of  Afri- 
can bondage  appeared  almost  a  deliverance.  Towards 
evening  a  light  was  descried  gleaming  along  the  waste,  in- 
dicating that  they  were  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  band  of 
these  marauders.  Having  waited  till  morning  they  ap- 
proached the  camp,  and  prostrated  themselves  in  a  suppliant 
attitude.  The  Arabs  uttered  a  furious  yell,  and  immedi- 
ately engaged  in  a  violent  contest  for  the  living  booty  thus 
unexpectedly  presented.  This  dispute  ended  in  a  division 
of  the  sailors  among  the  barbarians,  by  whom  the  captives 
were  hurried  in  different  directions  into  the  interior  of  the 
wilderness.  The  suflTerings  of  Riley  were  so  extreme  as 
made  him  almost  regret  the  life  which  he  had  saved,  till  he 
met  Sidi  Hamet,  a  respectable  caravan-merchant,  who,  ic 
bargaining  for  his  person,  showed  much  sympathy  for  his 
situation,  and  undertook  to  conduct  him  to  Mogadore,  pro- 
vided he  were  made  sure  of  a  good  ransom.  The  American 
soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  two  blankets,  a  cotton 
robe,  and  a  bundle  of  ostrich  feathers  paid  as  the  price  of  his 
liberty.  He  prevailed  on  the  Mussulman  also  to  purchase 
his  companions  ;  after  which  they  set  out  together  to  cross 
the  Desert  with  their  master  and  deliverer.  They  had  a 
very  painful  journey  to  perform,  riding  with  the  utmost  ra- 
pidity on  the  naked  backs  of  camels,  over  hills  of  loose 
sand,  while  the  air  was  filled  with  tempests  of  drift.  Food 
and  water  being  moreover  very  scanty,  they  were  reduced 
almost  to  the  condition  of  skeletons,  and  Riley  declares 
that  he  did  not  ultimately  weigh  above  ninety  pounds.  Hia 
mind  also  was  oppressed  with  much  anxiety,  as  Sidi  Hamet, 
with  all  his  humanity,  gave  notice  from  time  to  time,  that, 


RILEY.  119 

should  his  expectations  as  to  the  ransom  fail,  he  would  cut 
all  their  throats.  Having  procured,  therefore,  a  reed  and 
some  black  liquid,  Riley  wnrote  a  pathetic  representation  of 
his  sufferings,  addressed  generally  to  the  consuls  or  to  any 
Christians  who  might  happen  to  be  resident  at  Mogadore. 
After  eight  days  of  dreadful  suspense,  a  letter  arrived.  His 
emotion  was  too  great  to  allow  him  to  read  it ;  but  one  of 
his  companions  found  it  to  be  from  Mr.  Willshire,  the  Eng- 
lish consul,  expressed  in  the  most  sympathizing  terms, 
and  with  an  assurance  that  the  ransom  would  be  provided. 
This  was  faithfully  performed ;  and  a  hospitable  reception 
at  Mogadore  soon  restored  Riley  to  health  and  to  his  former 
dimensions. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  intelligence,  however, 
obtained  on  this  occasion,  was  that  communicated  to  Riley 
by  Sidi  Hamet,  concerning  his  own  journeys  and  adven- 
tures. He  had  accompanied  a  caravan  to  Timbuctoo,  and 
after  much  exertion  and  suffering  had  arrived  at  the  banks 
of  the  Gozen  Zair,  which,  running  eastward  through  Sou- 
dan, falls  into  the  Niger.  He  followed  its  current  till  he 
reached  the  capital  just  named,  which,  like  Adams,  he  de- 
scribed as  being  entirely  ruled  and  possessed  by  negroes  ; 
though  a  smaller  town,  separated  by  a  strong  wall,  was  as- 
signed to  the  Moors,  who  were  only  allowed  to  enter  the 
principal  city  by  fifties  at  a  time.  He  represents  Timbuc- 
too, on  the  whole,  as  being  larger  and  handsomer  than  it 
had  appeared  to  his  countryman.  The  shegar,  or  king, 
happened  to  send  a  caravan  southward  to  the  city  of  Was- 
sanah,  which  Sidi  Hamet  resolved  to  accompany.  A  ride 
of  two  hours  brought  the  travellers  to  the  banks  of  the  Zo- 
hbib  (Joliba  of  Park,  and  our  Niger).  Its  course  for  six 
days  was  nearly  due  east,  when  it  turned  to  the  south-east, 
and  continued  to  flow  in  that  direction  during  the  remainder 
of  their  journey.  At  length,  after  travelling  in  all  about 
sixty  days,  they  arrived  at  Wassanah,  which  appeared  to 
Sidi  Hamet  a  city  twice  as  large  as  Timbuctoo.  The  inha- 
bitants were  pagans,  but  honest,  hospitable,  and  kind- 
hearted.  Oleebo,  the  king,  lived  in  a  large  and  lofty  pa- 
lace, had  150  wives,  10,000  slaves,  and  a  very  large  army 
But  the  chief  interest  was  excited  by  a  report  received  from 
the  king's  brother,  of  expeditions  which  were  sent  down 
the  river,  consisting  of  numerous  boats  with  large  cargoes 


120  TUCKEY. 

of  slaves.  They  were  described  as  sailing  two  months, 
first  south  and  then  west,  till  they  came  to  the  great  water, 
where  they  met  pale  people  with  large  boats,  and  guns 
which  made  a  noise  like  thunder.  This  relation  was  ea- 
gerly embraced  as  favouring  the  supposition  of  the  Niger 
being  the  same  river  with  the  Congo  or  Zaire  ;  and  it  may 
even  be  adduced  to  support  the  hypothesis  which  now  iden- 
tifies it  with  the  river  of  Benin.  The  south-east  and 
southerly  course  assigned  to  the  Niger,  as  well  as  the  as- 
sertion that  it  flowed  among  rocks  and  formed  cataracts, 
having  been  since  found  to  be  correct,  though  contrary  to 
the  ideas  then  prevalent  in  Europe,  are  facts  which  afford 
reasonable  ground  to  believe  that  this  journey  was  not  al- 
together a  romance.  It  is  not  easy,  however,  to  conjecture 
what  was  the  city  described  by  Sidi  Hamet  under  the  name 
of  Wassanah. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Government  Expeditions — Tuckey,  Campbell,  Laing,  Grayi 
Ritchie,  and  Lyon. 

The  fate  of  Park,  notwithstanding  the  deep  regret  which 
it  had  excited  in  England  and  in  Europe,  presented  nothing 
which  could  destroy  the  hope  of  future  success.  The 
chief  cause  of  failure  could  be  easily  traced  to  the  precipi- 
tation into  which  he  had  been  betrayed  by  a  too  ardent  en- 
thusiasm. Nothing  had  even  been  discovered  adverse  to 
the  hypothesis  which  identifies  the  Niger  with  the  Congo, 
and  which  still  retained  a  strong  hold  on  the  public  mind. 
The  views  of  government  and  of  the  nation  on  tliis  subject 
were  entirely  in  unison.  It  was  therefore  determined  that 
an  expedition  on  a  great  scale  should  be  fitted  out,  divided 
into  two  portions — one  to  descend  the  Niger,  and  the  other 
to  ascend  the  Congo ;  which  two  parties,  it  was  fondly 
hoped,  would  effect  a  triumphant  meeting  in  the  middle  of 
the  great  stream  that  they  were  sent  to  explore.  The  pub- 
lic loudly  applauded  this  resolution ;  and  never,  perhaps. 


TUCKEY.  121 

did  a  military  or  naval  armament,  by  which  the  most  splen- 
did victories  were  expected  to  be  achieved,  excite  a  deeper 
interest  than  this,  which  seemed  destined  to  triumph  over 
the  darkness  that  had  so  long  enveloped  the  vast  interi  jr  of 
the  African  continent. 

The  expedition  to  the  Congo  was  intrusted  to  Captain 
Tuckey,  an  officer  of  merit  and  varied  services,  and  who 
had  pubHshed  several  works  connected  with  geography  and 
navigation.  Besides  a  crew  of  about  fifty  individuals,  in- 
cluding marines  and  mechanics,  he  was  accompanied  by 
Mr.  Smith,  an  eminent  botanist,  who  likewise  possessed 
some  knowledge  of  geology  ;  Mr.  Cranch,  a  self-taught  but 
able  zoologist ;  Mr.  Tudor,  a  good  comparative  anatomist ; 
Mr.  Lockhart,  a  gardener  from  Kew  ;  and  Mr.  Galwey,  an 
intelligent  person  who  volunteered  to  join  the  party.  They 
sailed  from  Deptford  on  the  16th  February,  1816,  and 
reached  Malemba  on  the  30th  June,  where  they  met  with  a 
most  cordial  reception  from  the  mafook,  or  king's  merchant, 
in  the  belief  that  they  were  come  to  make  up  a  cargo  of 
slaves.  The  chiefs,  on  being  reluctantly  convinced  of  the 
contrary,  burst  into  the  most  furious  invectives  against  the 
crowned  heads  of  Europe,  particularly  our  own  most  gra- 
cious sovereign,  whom  they  denominated  "  the  Devil,"  im- 
puting chiefly  to  him  the  stop  put  to  this  odious  but  lucra- 
tive traffic.  A  few  days  thereafter  brought  the  English  into 
the  channel  of  the  Congo ;  which,  to  their  great  surprise, 
instead  of  exhibiting  the  stupendous  magnitude  they  had 
been  taught  to  expect,  scarcely  appeared  a  river  of  the  se- 
cond class.  The  stream,  it  is  true,  was  then  at  the  lowest, 
but  the  depth  being  still  more  than  150  fathoms,  made 
it  impossible  to  estimate  the  mass  of  water  which  its 
channel  might  convey  to  the  ocean.  The  banks  were 
swampy,  overgrown  with  mangrove  trees ;  and  the  deep 
silence  and  repose  of  these  immense  forests  made  a  solemn 
impression  upon  the  mind.  At  Embomma,  the  emporium 
of  the  Congo,  much  interest  was  excited  by  the  discovery 
that  a  negro  officiating  as  cook's  mate  was  a  prince  of  the 
blood.  He  was  welcomed  with  rapture  by  his  father,  and 
with  a  general  rejoicing  by  the  whole  vilkige.  The  young 
savage  was  soon  arrayed  in  full  African  pomp,  having  on 
an  embroidered  coat  very  much  tarnished,  a  silk  sash,  and 
a  black  glazed-hat,  surmounted  by  an  enormous  tieathe... 
h  « 


122  TUCKEV. 

Captain  Tuckey  was  introduced  to  the  chenoo,  who,  with 
his  huge  gilt  buttons,  stockings  of  pink  sarsenet,  red  half- 
boots,  and  high-crowned  embroidered  hat,  reminded  him  of 
punch  in  a  puppet-show.  It  was  vain  to  attempt  to  convey 
to  this  sage  prince  any  idea  of  the  objects  of  the  expedition. 
The  terms  wliich  express  science  and  an  enlightened  cu- 
riosity did  not  excite  in  his  mind  a  single  idea,  and  he  rang 
continual  changes  on  the  questions,  "Are  you  come  to 
trade  ]"  and  "  Are  you  come  to  make  war  1" — unable  to  con- 
jecture any  other  motive.  At  length,  having  received  a  solemn 
declaration  that  there  was  no  intention  to  make  war,  he 
sealed  peace  by  the  acceptance  of  a  large  present  of  brandy. 
After  sailing  between  ridges  of  high  rocky  hills,  the  ex- 
pedition came  to  the  Yellala,  or  Great  Cataract ;  and  here 
they  met  with  a  second  disappointment.  Instead  of  an- 
other Niagara,  which  general  report  had  led  them  to  expect, 
they  saw  only  "  a  comparative  brook  bubbling  over  its  stony 
bed."  The  fall  appears  to  be  occasioned  merely  by  masses 
of  granite,  fragments  of  which  have  fallen  down  and  blocked 
up  the  stream.  Yet  this  obstruction  rendered  it  quite  im- 
possible for  the  boats  to  pass ;  nor  could  they  be  carried 
across  the  precipices  and  deep  ravines  by  which  tlie  coun- 
try was  intersected.  The  discoverers  were  therefore  obliged 
to  proceed  by  land  through  this  difficult  region,  which, 
without  a  guide  on  whom  they  could  rely,  was  attended 
with  overwhelming  toil.  Cooloo,  Inga,  andMavoonda,  the 
principal  villages,  were  separated  by  wide  intervals,  which 
placed  the  travellers  under  the  necessity  of  often  sleeping  in 
the  open  air.  At  length  the  country  began  to  improve  and 
become  more  level,  the  river  to  widen,  while  the  obstacles 
to  its  navigation  gradually  disappeared.  But  just  as  the 
voyage  began  to  assume  a  prosperous  aspect,  indications 
of  its  fatal  termination  were  already  perceptiWe.  The  health 
of  the  party  was  rapidly  giving  way  under  the  effects  of 
fatigue,  as  well  as  the  malignant  influence  of  a  damp  and 
burning  atmosphere.  Tudor,  Cranch,  and  Galwey  were 
successively  obliged  to  return  to  the  ship.  Captain  Tuckey, 
after  struggling  for  some  time  against  the  increasing  pres- 
sure of  disease  and  exhaustion,  as  well  as  the  accumuilating 
difficulties  of  the  undertaking,  saw  the  necessity  of  putting 
a  stop  to  the  farther  progress  of  the  e-xpe^ition-  Mr.  Smith 
at  iirst  expressed  deep  disappoijttmcat  at  this  resolution^ 


PEDDIE.  123 

but  soon  became  so  ill  that  he  could  scarcely  be  conveyed 
to  the  vessel.  On  reaching  it,  a  sad  scene  awaited  the  sur 
vivors.  Cranch,  Tudor,  and  Galwey  were  no  more  ;  they 
had  successively  sunk  under  the  weight  ef  disease.  Mr. 
Smith  soon  shared  their  fate  ;  and  Captain  Tuckey  himself, 
on  the  4th  October,  added  one  more  to  the  number  of  deaths, 
without  having  suffered  the  usual  attack  of  fever.  He  had 
been  exhausted  by  constant  depression  and  mental  anxiety 

From  this  unhappy  expedition,  however,  some  informa- 
tion was  obtainetl  respecting  a  part  of  Africa  which  had  not 
been  visited  for  several  centuries.  No  trace,  indeed,  was 
seen  of  the  great  kingdoms,  or  of  the  cities  and  armies  de- 
scribed by  the  Portuguese  missionaries  ;  so  that,  though  the 
interior  may  very  probably  be  more  populous  than  the  banks 
of  the  river,  there  must,  in  these  pious  narratives,  have  been 
much  exaggeration.  The  largest  towns,  or  rather  villages, 
did  not  contain  above  a  hundred  houses,  with  five  or  six 
hundred  inhabitants.  They  were  governed  by  chenoos,  or 
hereditary  chiefs,  having  a  power  nearly  absohite,  and  by 
mafooks  under  them,  who  were  chiefly  employed  in  the 
collection  of  revenue.  The  people  are  merry,  idle,  good- 
humoured,  hospitable,  and  liberal,  with  rather  an  innocent 
and  agreeable  expression  of  countenance.  The  greatest 
blemish  in  their  character  appears  in  the  treatment  of  the 
female  sex,  on  whom  they  devolve  all  the  laborious  -duties 
of  life,  even  more  exclusively  than  is  usual  among  negro 
tribes  ;  holding  their  virtue  also  in  such  slender  esteem, 
that  the  greatest  chiefs  unblushingly  made  it  an  object  of 
traffic.  Upon  this  head,  however,  they  have  evidently 
learned  much  evil  from  their  intercourse  with  Europeans. 
— The  character  of  the  vegetation,  and  the  general  aspect 
of  nature,  are  pretty  nearly  the  same  on  the  Congo  as  on 
the  other  African  rivers. 

Meantime  the  other  part  of  the  expedition  under  Major 
Peddie,  whose  destination  it  was  to  descend  the  Niger,  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal.  Instead  of  the  beaten 
track  along  the  banks  of  that  river,  or  of  the  Gambia,  he 
pr-e-ferred  the  route  through  the  country  of  the  Foulahs, 
which,  though  nearer,  was  more  difficult  and  less  explored. 
On-fche  i7th  November,  1816,  he  sailed  from  the  Senegal, 
safid  on  i4th  December,  the  party,  consisting  of  100  men 
and  200  animals,  landed  at  Kakundy,  on  the  Rio  Nun-ez ; 


124  CAMPBELL GRAY. 

but  before  they  could  begin  their  march,  Major  Peddie  was 
attacked  with  fever  and  died.  Captain  Campbell,  on  whom 
the  command  devolved,  proceeded  in  the  line  proposed,  till 
he  arrived  at  a  small  river  called  the  Panietta,  on  the  fron- 
tier of  the  Foulah  territory.  By  this  time  many  of  the 
beasts  of  burden  had  sunk,  and  great  difficulty  was  found 
in  obtaining  a  sufficient  supply  of  provisions.  The  king 
of  the  Foulahs,  on  being  asked  for  permission  to  pass 
through  his  territories,  seemed  alarmed  at  hearing  of  so 
large  a  body  of  foreigners  about  to  enter  his  country.  He 
contrived,  under  various  pretexts,  to  detain  them  on  the 
frontier  four  months,  during  which  their  stock  of  food  and 
clothing  gradually  diminished,  while  they  were  suifering 
all  the  evils  that  arise  from  a  sickly  cUmate  and  a  scanty 
supply  of  necessaries.  At  length  their  situation  became 
such  as  to  place  them  under  the  absolute  necessity  of  re- 
turning ;  and  all  their  animals  being  dead,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  hire  the  natives  to  carry  their  baggage, — an  expe- 
dient which  gave  occasion  to  frequent  pillage.  They 
reached  Kakundy  with  the  loss  only  of  Mr.  Kummer  the  natu- 
ralist ;  but  Captain  Campbell,  overcome  with  sickness  and 
exertion,  died  two  days  after,  on  the  13th  of  June,  1817 
The  command  was  then  transferred  to  Lieutenant  Stokoe, 
a  spirited  young  naval  officer,  who  had  joined  the  expedi- 
tion as  a  volunteer.  He  formed  a  new  scheme  for  proceed- 
ing into  the  interior  ;  but  unhappily  he  also  sunk  under  the 
climate  and  the  fatigues  of  the  journey. 

A  sentence  of  death  seemed  pronounced  against  all  who 
should  attempt  to  penetrate  the  African  continent ;  and  yet 
there  were  still  daring  spirits  who  did  not  shrink  from  the 
undertaking.  Captain  Gray,  of  the  Royal  African  Corps, 
who  had  accompanied  the  last-mentioned  expedition  under 
Major  Peddle  and  Captain  Campbell,  undertook,  in  1818,  to 
perform  a  journey  by  Park's  old  route  along  the  Gambia. 
He  reached,  without  any  obstacle,  Boolibani,  the  capital  of 
Bondou,  where  he  remained  from  the  20th  June,  1818,  to 
the  22d  May,  1819  ;  but  owing  to  the  jealousy  of  the  mo- 
narch, he  was  permitted  to  proceed  no  farther.  With  some 
difficulty  he  reached  Gallam,  where  he  met  Staff-surgeon 
Dockard,  who  had  gone  forward  to  Sego  to  ask  permission 
to  proceed  through  Bambarra, — a  request  which  had  also 
been  evaded.    The  whole  party  then  returned  to  Senegal    ^ 


LAING RITCHIE — LYON.  125 

?n  1821,  Major  Lains:  was  sent  on  a  mission  from  Sierra 
iiCone,  through  the  Timannee,  Kooranko,  and  Sooiima 
countries,  with  the  view  of  forming  some  commercial  ar- 
rangements. On  this  journey  he  found  reason  to  beUeve 
that  the  soutce  of  the  Niger  lay  much  farther  to  the  south 
than  Park  had  supposed.  At  Falaba,  he  was  assured  that 
it  might  have  been  reached  in  three  days,  had  not  the  Kissi 
nation,  in  whose  territory  it  was  situated,  been  at  war  with 
the  Soolimanas,  with  whom  Major  Laing  then  resided. 
He  was  inclined  to  fix  the  source  of  this  great  river  a  very 
iittle  above  the  ninth  degree  of  latitude. 

The  British  government  were,  meantime,  indefatigable 
in  their  endeavours  to  find  out  other  channels  for  exploring 
the  interior  of  Africa.  The  bashaw  of  Tripoli,  though  he 
had  usurped  the  throne  by  violent  means,  showed  a  dispo- 
sition to  improve  his  country  by  adnaitting  the  arts  and 
learning  of  Europe  ;  while  the  judicious  conduct  of  Consul 
Warrington  inclined  him  to  cultivate  the  friendship  of  Bri- 
tain. Through  his  tributarj^  kingdom  of  Fezzan  he  held  close 
and  constant  communication  with  Bornou  and  the  other 
leading  states  of  Central  Africa  ;  and  he  readily  undertook 
io  psromote  the  views  of  any  English  expedition  which 
might  proceed  in  that  direction.  Such  an  opportunity  was 
not  to  be  lost.  The  usual  means  were  supplied  by  the  mi- 
tiistry,  -and  the  ordinary  inducements  held  forth  by  the  As- 
sodalioi*.  Mr.  Ritchie,  a  young  man  of  scientific  acquire- 
ments and  zeal  for  discovery,  undertook  the  direction  of  this 
adventure.  Captain  Marrayat  of  the  navy  proposed  to  ac- 
company him ;  but,  being  prevented  by  private  considera- 
tions, 'his  place  was  taken  by  Lieutenant  Lyon,  who,  as  a 
naval  officer,  was  expected  to  be  useful  in  navigating  the 
Niger  when  the  party  should  reach  that  river.  The  mis- 
sion v«?>cre  perfectly  well  received  at  Tripoli,  and  uet  out  on 
the  23d  March,  1819,  for  Fezzan,  with  Mukni,  the  sultan, 
who  gave  them  the  most  solemn  assurances  of  protection. 
This  chief,  however,  was  a  ruffian,  who  had  made  his  way 
to  power  by  the  massacre  of  the  late  sovereign  and  his  bro- 
ther, and  who  supported  his  favour  at  Tripoli  by  annual 
slave-hunts,  which  he  extended  over  the  whole  Desert  to  the 
Irontier  of  Soudan.  Thus  he  brought  annually  to  Tripoli 
4000  or  5000  of  those  unhappy  victims,  a  large  proportion  of 
whom  were  bestowed  in  presents  to  his  liege  lord.  Undei 
L3 


126  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

such  guardianship"  the  mission  could  not  be  sure  of  that 
support  of  which  they  soon  stood  very  much  in  need.  MouT- 
zouk  was  found  extremely  unhealthy,  being  intensely  hot, 
and  surrounded  by  pools  of  stagnant  water,  which  rendered 
even  the  natives  liable  to  fever  and  ague.  The  members 
of  the  expedition  soon  felt  its  effects,  Lieutenant  Lyon  be- 
ing seized  with  dysentery,  and  Mr.  Ritchie  with  bilious 
fever,  under  which  they  languished  during  the  whole  sum- 
mer. The  treacherous  Mukni  not  only  withheld  all  aifil, 
but  studiously  prevented  others  from  giving  them  assistant*. 
At  length  Mr.  RitcHie,  overwhelmed  by  disease  and  anxiet/, 
died  on  the  20th  November,  1819  ;  after  which  Mr.  Lyon 
found  himself  without  the  means  of  penetrating  farther 
than  to  the  southern  frontier  of  Fezzan.  He  obtained  in- 
deed a  good  deal  of  information  respecting  the  remoter 
countries,  which,  however,  has  been  rendered  less  important 
by  the  fuller  and  more  recent  intelligence  received  through 
Denham  and  Clapperton.  He  passes  a  very  unfavourable 
judgment  upon  the  territory  of  Fezzan,  which  he  considers 
nearly  as  barren  as  any  part  of  the  surrounding  Desert, 
The  cultivation  is  confined  to  a  few  gardens,  into  which 
water  is  raised  by  immense  labour  from  wells  of  consider- 
able depth. 


CHAPTER  XIL 

Journey  of  Denham  and  Clapperton. 

Nothing  could  shake  the  determination  of  the  British  go- 
vernment to  obtain,  by  some  means  or  other,  a  competent 
degree  of  information  respecting  the  unknown  countries  of 
Africa.  The  great  favour  and  influence  enjoyed  at  the 
court  of  Tripoli  was  still  regarded  as  a  favourable  circum- 
stance. It  was  chiefly  due,  as  already  observed,  to  the  pru- 
dence and  ability  of  Mr.  Warrington,  without  whose  advice 
scarcely  any  thing  of  importance  was  transacted.  The  ba- 
shaw was  therefore  disposed  to  renew  his  protection  to  any 
mission  which  Britain  might  send.    Nor  could  the  protec- 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  127 

tiori  of  any  sovereign  have  been  more  efficient ;  for  the 
influence  of  this  pelty  prince  and  the  terror  of  his  name 
are  almost  unbounded  in  the  greatest  kingdoms  of  Central 
Africa.  One  weapon,  the  gun,  in  the  hands  of  his  troops, 
gives  him  all  this  superiority  ;  for  the  remoter  nations,  from 
the  Nile  to  the  Atlantic,  scarcely  know  any  other  arms  be- 
sides the  spear,  the  bow,  and  the  javelin.  A  musket  among 
those  tribes  is  an  object  of  almost  supernatural  dread  ;  indi- 
viduals have  been  seen  kneeling  down  before  it,  speaking 
to  it  in  whispers,  and  addressing  to  it  earnest  supplications. 
With  troops  thus  armed,  the  bashaw  of  Tripoli  is  esteemed 
in  Northern  Africa  the  most  potent  monarch  on  earth  ;  and 
it  is  a  matter  of  surprise  among  the  natives  that  he  has  not 
ere  now  compelled  all  Europe  to  embrace  the  Mohammedan 
faith.  He  could  therefore  assure  the  English,  that  for  any 
but  physical  obstacles,  they  might  travel  as  safely  from  Tri- 
poli to  Boniou,  as  from  Edinburgh  to  London. 

Under  the  confidence  inspired  by  these  circumstances, 
government  prepared  another  expedition,  and  without  diffi- 
culty procured  a  fresh  band  of  adventurers,  who  undertook 
to  brave  all  its  perils.  Major  Denham,  Lieutenant  Clap- 
perton  of  the  navy,  and  Dr.  Oudney,  a  naval  surgeon  pos- 
sessing a  considerable  knowledge  of  natural  history,  were 
appointed  to  this  service.  Without  delay  they  proceeded  to 
Tripoli,  where  they  arrived  on  the  18th  November,  1821. 
They  were  immediately  introduced  to  the  bashaw,  whom 
they  found  sitting  cross-legged  on  a  carpet,  attended  by 
armed  negroes.  After  treating  them  to  sherbet  and  coffee, 
he  invited  them  to  a  hawking  party,  where  he  appeared 
mounted  on  a  milk-white  Arabian  steed  superbly  capari- 
soned, having  a  saddle  of  crimson  velvet  richly  studded 
with  gold  nails,  and  with  embroidered  trappings.  He  was 
preceded  by  six  chaoushes,  or  officers,  in  white  silk  robes  ; 
while  two  favourite  negro  slaves,  in  glittering  vest,  light 
burnouse,  and  white  turban,  supported  him  on  each  side. 
The  hunt  began  on  the  borders  of  the  Desert,  where  parties 
of  six  or  eight  Arabs  dashed  forwards  quick  as  lightning, 
fired  suddenly,  and  rushed  back  with  loud  cries.  The  skill 
with  which  they  manoeuvred  their  steeds,  whirling  the  long 
musket  over  their  heads  as  they  rode  at  fiill  gallop,  appeared 
quite  surprising. 

Although  the  English  were  personally  well  treated  at  Tri- 


128  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

poll,  they  could  not  shut  their  eyes  to  the  reigning  barba* 
risiUk  The  sheik,  Belgassum  Khalifa,  a  fine  old  Arab,  un- 
derstood to  be  high  in  the  favour  of  the  bashaw,  had  been 
one  evening  at  an  elegant  entertainment  in  the  palace,  when 
on  reaching  his  own  door  a  pistol-shot  wounded  him  in  the 
arm,  and  on  his  entering  the  passage  a  second  penetrated 
his  body.  He  staggered  into  theliouse,  denouncing  his  own 
nephew  as  the  author  of  the  assassination.  The  murderers 
rushed  in,  and  completed  their  crime  by  stabbing  him  seven 
times  with  their  daggers,  while  his  wife  received  two  wounds 
in  endeavouring  to  save  him.  The  three  actors  in  this  tra- 
gedy instantly  fled  for  protection  to  the  British  consulate  ; 
but  ]Mr.  Warrington  sent  notice  to  the  bashaw,  "  that  the 
murderers  of  Khalifa  would  find  no  protection  under  the 
flag  of  England."  That  chief,  however,  either  privy  to  the 
crime,  or  disposed  to  wink  at  its  commission,  expressed  his 
regret  that  the  guilty  persons  had  found  shelter  in  the  con- 
sulate ;  but  added,  that  he  could  not  think  of  violating  such 
a  sanctuary.  Repeated  assurance  was  given  that  he  might 
send  any  force,  or  use  any  means,  to  drag  them  from  be- 
neath a  banner  that  never  was  disgraced  by  giving  protec- 
tion to  assassins.  The  bashaw  at  length,  ashamed  of  his 
apathy,  sent  sixteen  stout  fellows,  by  whom  the  ruffians 
were  seized  ;  and  in  less  than  an  hour  the  murderers  were 
seen  hanging  from  the  castle-walls. 

The  mission,  fortified  with  recommendations  to  the  sul- 
tan of  Fezzan,  now  entered  upon  their  long  and  dreary  pil- 
grimage to  Mourzouk,  where  they  arrived  on  the  8th  April, 
1822.  This  prince  received  them  with  courtesy  and  affa- 
bility, but  gave  himself  very  little  trouble  in  making  provi- 
sion for  the  continuance  of  their  journey.  He  even  inti- 
mated his  intention  of  visiting  Tripoli,  and  the  necessity  of 
their  remaining  till  his  return.  This  arrangement  was  most 
disheartening  ;  nor  did  they  know  what  reliance  to  place  in 
the  sincerity  of  Boo  Khalloom,  a  great  merchant,  who  in- 
vited them  to  accompany  an  expedition  which  he  was  pre- 
paring for  Soudan.  The  sultan  and  he  soon  after  departed, 
each  with  large  presents  for  the  bashaw,  to  intrigue  against 
one  another  at  the  court  of  Tripoli.  After  this  there  was 
scarcely  a  camel  left  in  Fezzan,  or  any  other  means  of  pro- 
secuting discovery.  Major  Dcnham  then  saw  no  alterna- 
tive but  that  he  himself  should  hasten  back  to  Tripoli,  and 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  129 

remonstrate  with  the  bashaw  on  this  apparent  violation  of 
his  promise.  After  a  tedious  journey  of  twenty  days,  with 
only  three  attendants,  he  arrived,  and  waited  on  the  barba- 
rian, who  received  him  with  his  usual  courtesy  ;  but,  not 
giving  that  full  satisfaction  which  was  expected,  the  Major 
lost  no  time  in  setting  sail  for  England,  to  lodge  a  complaint 
with  his  own  court.  This  step  was  painfully  felt  by  the 
bashaw,  who  sent  vessel  after  vessel,  one  of  which  at  last 
overtook  Major  Denham  while  performing  quarantine  at 
Marseilles,  and  announced  that  arrangements  were  actually 
made  with  Boo  Khalloom  for  escorting  him  to  the  capital 
of  Bomou.  Accordingly,  on  the  Major's  return  to  Tri- 
poli, he  found  the  Arab  chief  already  on  the  borders  of  the 
Desert. 

This  trader,  who  was  now  to  be  a  guide  to  the  English 
into  the  immense  regions  of  the  south,  was  a  personage  of 
a  very  different  character  from  what  we  in  this  country  can 
form  any  idea  of.  The  African  caravan-merchant  has  no- 
thing in  common  with  that  respectable  class  of  men  who, 
seated  in  counting-houses  at  London  or  Amsterdam,  direct 
the  movement  of  their  ships  over  the  ocean,  and  count  the 
silent  accumulation  of  their  profits.  He,  on  the  contrary, 
must  accompany  his  merchandise  from  one  extremity  to  the 
other  of  a  great  continent,  and  across  its  immense  deserts, 
the  scene  of  much  suffering,  and  frequently  of  death  itself. 
Nor  is  it  from  a  parched  wilderness  and  a  burning  climate 
that  he  has  most  to  apprehend.  His  path  is  every  where 
beset  by  bands  whose  trade  is  plunder,  and  who  find  amuse- 
ment in  assassination.  He  must  therefore  have  his  pro- 
perty guarded  by  armed  men,  ready  to  defend  with  their 
blood  what  his  money  has  purchased.  These  followers, 
oeing  in  continual  service,  and  exposed  to  frequent  fight- 
ing, become  practised  soldiers,  and  are  more  than  a  match 
for  the  roving  barbarians  who  infest  the  Sahara.  Even 
the  greatest  princes  view  these  merchant-chiefs  with  fear 
and  jealousy  ;  and  though  they  contrive  to  draw  consider- 
able advantage  from  their  trade,  scarcely  consider  the  king- 
dom as  their  own  while  their  troops  are  within  its  boun- 
daries. The  merchants,  unhappily,  do  not  confine  them- 
selves to  self-defence  ;  but,  seeing  robbery  practised  on 
every  side  against  themselves,  begin  to  retaliate,  and  soon 
find  it  cheaper,  and,  according  to  African  ideas,  not  less 


130  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

honourable,  to  replenish  their  stores  by  plunder  than  by  pur- 
chase. Slaves,  the  staple  of  their  trade,  are  generally  ob- 
tained by  the  most  atrocious  violence,  in  expeditions  called 
ghrazzies  orfclateas,  undertaken  solely  for  that  guilty  pur- 
pose ;  but,  by  engaging  in  such  enterprises  themselves,  the 
merchants  enjoy  the  benefit,  since  they  reckon  it  such,  of 
paying  in  blood  instead  of  money.  Provided  they  can  es- 
cape the  dangers  and  casualties  to  which  they  are  exposed, 
their  profits  are  immense,  the  value  of  merchandise  being 
somewhat  more  than  tripled  by  its  conveyance  across  the 
Desert.  Thus  a  few  successful  journeys  enable  a  man  to 
acquire  a  fortune  almost  princely,  and  a  high  degree  of  in- 
fluence in  the  Barbary  States.  In  short,  the  merchant,  the 
warrior,  the  prince,  the  thief,  are  united  in  this  extraordi- 
nary character ;  and  he  is  prepared,  according  to  circum- 
stances, to  act  in  one  or  in  all  of  these  capacities.  Yet 
Boo  Khalloom  might  be  reckoned  a  good  specimen  of  this 
evil  race.  He  possessed  an  enlarged  and  liberal  mind,  and 
was  honourable,  and  even  humane,  so  far  as  a  slave-mer- 
chant could  retain  these  qualities ;  he  was  dragged,  too, 
with  reluctance  into  the  most  odious  parts  of  his  vocation, 
— while  at  home  his  generosity  was  such  as  to  make  him 
almost  idolized. 

Under  the  guidance  of  this  remarkable  personage  Major 
Denham  set  forth,  with  almost  the  full  assurance  of  reach- 
ing those  depths  of  Africa  from  which  no  European  had 
ever  yet  returned.  Little  occurred  to  diversify  the  usual 
monotony  of  a  desert  route,  till  they  arrived  at  Sockna, 
where  Boo  Khalloom,  who  was  fond  of  display,  determined 
to  make  his  entrance  with  almost  kingly  pomp.  He  rode  a 
white  Tunisian  horse,  w'ith  gilded  saddle  and  trappings  of 
scarlet  cloth  bordered  with  gold  ;  his  dress  consisted  of  va- 
rious caftans  and  robes  of  the  richest  silks,  adorned  with 
gold  buttons,  lace,  and  embroidery :  the  burnouse,  a  present 
from  the  bashaw,  had  cost  400  dollars.  The  citizens  meet- 
ing the  party  with  shouts  and  guns,  and  the  females  with 
singing  and  dancing,  formed  a  species  of  triumphal  proces- 
sion. Several  days  were  spent  at  Sockna,  Boo  KhaUooui 
being  ill,  and  wishing  to  try  the  effect  of  various  charms 
and  superstitious  remedies.  The  English,  meantLmev  wit- 
nessed a  great  marriage  ceremony,  the  chief  pomp  of  which 
consisted  in  placing  the  bride  in  a  basket  on  the  back  of  a 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  131 

camel  and  leading  her  rotind  the  town,  while  numerowa 
horsemen  galloped  up  and  discharged  their  muskets  quite 
close  to  her  head  ;  the  honour  of  which  compliment  was 
understood  to  compensate  for  the  fear  which  it  could  not  fail 
to  occasion. 

In  journeying  onwards  to  Mourzouk  the  travellers  passed 
alon^  the  naked  sides  of  the  Gebel  Assoud,  which  the  Major 
crossed  now  for  the  third  time  ;  but  no  familiarity  could 
relieve  the  sense  of  dreariness  and  misery  which  its  aspect 
occasioned.  A  rainy  day  came  as  a  blessing  to  the  whole 
party,  especially  to  the  poor  slaves,  on  whom  Boo  Khalloom 
had  only  in  special  kindness  bestowed  one  draught  of  water 
in  the  day  to  cool  their  burning  thirst.  On  the  30th  Oc- 
tober the  caravan  made  its  entry  into  Mourzouk  with  simi- 
lar pomp  as  into  Sockna,  amid  the  shouts  of  the  inhabitants, 
whom  the  chief,  by  his  liberality,  had  inspired  with  the 
warmest  attachment.  The  Major,  however,  was  much  dis- 
heartened by  not  seeing  any  of  his  countrymen  amid  the 
joyous  crowd  ;  and  his  fears  were  confinned  by  finding  Dr. 
Oudney  just  recovering  from  a  severe  attack  in  the  chest, 
and  Mr.  Clapperton  in  bed  the  fifteenth  day  with  ague, — 
facts  which,  combined  with  the  unfortunate  result  of  the 
last  expedition  and  the  sickly  look  of  the  natives  themselves, 
indicated  some  peculiarly  baneful  influence,  without  any 
visible  cause,  in  the  climate  of  Mourzouk. 

Invalids  so  severely  afflicted  were  not  very  fit  to  begin  a 
ong  and  laborious  journey  ;  but  their  ardour  was  extreme, 
and  imagining  that  a  change  of  air  would  be  beneficial,  they 
contrived,  even  before  Boo  Khalloom  was  ready  to  set  out, 
to  move  forward  to  Gatrone,  leaving  Major  Denham  behind 
at  Mourzouk.  On  the  29th  November  the  whole  caravan 
broke  up  from  that  city,  and  began  their  journey  through 
the  Desert.  They  were  escorted  by  nearly  every  inhabitant 
who  could  muster  a  horse.  The  expedition,  besides  the 
English,  comprised  210  Arabs,  ranged  in  tens  and  twenties, 
under  different  chiefs.  The  most  numerous  were  the 
M'Garha,  who,  to  the  amount  of  seventy,  came  from  the 
barren  shore  of  the  Syrtes.  These  barbarians  enlivened 
the  route  by  their  traditionary  tales,  their  songs,  their  ex- 
temporary poems,  in  which  all  the  incidents  of  the  journey 
itself  were  narrated  ;  in  short,  by  an  inexhaustible  fund  af 
wit  and  vivacity.     Their  pride,  their  revenge,  their  rob- 


133  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON, 

beries,  did  not  come  into  view  in  their  intercourse  with  the 
English,  who,  being  received  into  their  camp,  having  eaten 
of  their  bread  and  salt,  and  being  bound  in  the  cord  of 
friendship,  were  entitled  to  all  the  rights  of  hospitality,  and 
would  have  been  protected  even  at  the  hazard  of  life. 

The  caravan  arrived  in  due  time  at  Traghan,  a  small 
town  containing  a  fine  carpet-manufactory,  and  ruled  by  a 
marabout,  who  used  the  sanctity  of  his  character  to  main- 
tain order  and  promote  the  prosperity  of  the  place.  Pass- 
ing that  station  they  were  soon  in  the  heart  of  the  Desert, 
where  they  spent  whole  days  without  seeing  a  living  thing, 
even  a  bird  or  an  insect,  that  did  not  belong  to  the  caravan 
itself.  After  painful  marches  under  the  direct  action  of  the 
solar  rays,  they  were  delighted  by  the  stillness  and  beauty 
of  the  night.  The  moon  and  stars  shone  with  peculiar 
brilliancy  ;  cool  breezes  succeeded  to  the  burning  heat  of 
the  day ;  and  on  removing  a  few  inches  of  the  loose  hot 
soil,  a  soft  and  refreshing  bed  was  obtained.  Even  the 
ripple  of  the  blowing  sand  sounded  like  a  gentle  and  mur- 
muring stream.  Every  noise  was  rendered  doubly  impres- 
sive by  the  deep  stillness,  as  well  as  by  an  echo  from  the 
surface  of  the  surrounding  waste.  The  road  derived  a  very 
peculiar  aspect  from  the  quantity  of  salt  with  which  the 
soil  was  impregnated ;  the  clods  were  often  cracked  so  as 
to  resemble  a  ploughed  field  ;  and  from  the  sides  of  cavities 
were  hanging  beautiful  crj'stals  of  that  mineral  like  the 
finest  frost-work.  Sometimes  the  ground  for  several  miles 
was  glazed  over,  resembling  a  sheet  of  ice  ;  but  though  the 
surface  was  very  hard,  the  interior  was  brittle,  and  the  salt 
fell  away  in  flakes. 

The  travellers  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  melan- 
'choly  aspect  of  the  Desert  was  heightened  by  a  succession 
of  objects  which  could  not  be  viewed  without  the  deepest 
horror.  The  ground  was  strewed  with  the  skeletons  of 
former  travellers,  who  had  perished  in  the  attempt  to  cross 
this  extensive  wilderness.  These  at  first  appeared  singly, 
but  afterward  increased  till  they  amounted  to  fifty  or  sixty 
in  a  day.  At  Meshroo  a  hundred  were  seen  together ;  and 
near  the  wells  at  El  Hammar  they  were  found  lying  in 
countless  multitudes.  One  forenoon,  as  Major  Denham 
was  dozing  on  horseback,  he  was  awakened  by  the  sound 
of  something  crashing  under  his  horse's  feet,  and  on  look- 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  133 

vng  3own,  saw  the  animal  trampling  on  two  perfect  human 
skeletons.  A  movement  of  one  of  the  feet  had  separated 
the  scull  from  the  trunk,  and  driven  it  forward  like  a  ball. 
In  some  of  these  remains  portions  of  the  flesh  and  haii 
were  left,  and  even  the  features  were  still  distinguishable. 
Two  female  skeletons  lay  closely  twined  together,  having 
evidently  been  faithful  friends,  who  had  died  in  each  other's 
arms.  The  Arabs  gave  little  proof  of  their  boasted  sensi- 
bility in  the  utter  indifference  with  which  they  viewed  these 
dismal  objects,  driving  about  the  limbs  with  their  firelocks, 
passing  coarse  jests  upon  the  dead,  and  deriding  the  sym- 
pathy manifested  by  their  English  companions.  They  told 
them  these  were  only  blacks,  "  damn  their  fathers," — the 
barbarous  prejudices  arising  from  difference  of  religion  and 
lineage  having  thus  extinguished  in  their  breasts  every  touch 
of  human  sympathy.  Major  Denham  appears  in  one  place 
to  countenance  the  popular  belief  that  these  bodies  were  the 
remains  of  caravans  buried  beneath  tempests  of  moving 
sand  ;  but  none  of  his  facts  support  this  conclusion,  or  con- 
tradict the  opinion  of  Browne,  that  such  victims  have  in 
most  instances  perished  from  other  causes.  They  were 
lying  open  and  exposed,  without  even  a  covering  of  dust ; 
and  the  catastrophe  of  the  largest  group  was  too  well  known, 
having  been  a  body  of  slaves,  the  chief  booty  obtained  ^by 
the  sultan  of  Fezzan  during  his  last  expedition  into  Sou- 
dan. The  troop  had  left  Bornou  without  an  adequate  sup- 
ply of  provisions,  which  failed  entirely  before  they  ap- 
proached Mourzouk.  That  want,  or  perhaps  fatigue,  was 
the  real  cause  of  this  destruction  was  manifest  from  the 
fact  that  the  sufferers  were  all  negroes,  while  their  Arab 
masters  had  taken  care  to  reserve  for  themselves  the  means 
of  reaching  home. 

In  this  route  the  travellers  had  on  one  «ide  the  Tibboos, 
on  the  other  the  Tuaricks,  two  native  tribes,  probably  of 
great  antiquity,  and  having  no  alliance  with  the  Arab  race, 
now  so  widely  spread  over  the  continent.  The  Tibboos 
were  on  the  left,  and  it  was  through  their  villages  that  the 
caravan  passed.  These  people  live  partly  on  the  milk  of 
their  camels,  which  pick  up  a  scanty  subsistence  on  the  few 
verdant  spots  that  rise  amid  the  Desert,  partly  by  carry- 
ing on  a  small  trade  between  Mourzouk  and  Bornou,  in 
which  they  are  so  busily  employed  that  many  do  not  spend 
M 


234  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

at  home  more  than  four  months  in  the  year.  They  are 
black,  though  without  the  negro  features ;  the  men  ugly, 
but  the  young  females  possessed  of  some  beauty,  not  wholly 
obscured  by  the  embellishments  of  coral  stuck  in  the  nose, 
and  of  oil  streaming  over  the  face.  They  are  besides  a 
gay,  good-humoured,  thoughtless  race,  with  all  the  African 
passion  for  the  song  and  the  dance  ;  which  last  they  prac- 
tise gracefully,  and  with  movements  somewhat  analogous  to 
the  Grecian.  This  cheerfulness  appears  wonderful  consi- 
dering the  dreadful  calamity  with  which  they  are  threatened 
every  day.  Once  a  year,  or  oftener,  an  inroad  is  made  by 
their  fierce  neighbours,  the  Tuaricks,  who  spare  neither  age 
nor  sex,  and  sweep  away  all  that  comes  within  their  reach. 
The  cowardly  Tibboos  dare  not  even  look  them  in  the  face ; 
they  can  only  mount  to  the  top  of  certain  steep  rocks  with 
flat  summits  and  perpendicular  sides,  near  one  of  which 
every  village  is  built.  They  carry  up  with  them  every 
thing  that  can  be  removed,  and  this  rude  defence  avails 
against  still  ruder  assailants.  The  savage  Tuaricks,  again, 
were  observed  by  Clapperton  and  Oudney  in  a  journey  to 
the  westward  from  Mourzouk,  and  were  found  in  their  pri 
vate  character  to  be  frank,  honest,  and  hospitable.  The 
females  are  neither  immured  nor  oppressed,  as  is  usual 
among  rude  and  Mohammedan  tribes,  but  meet  with  notice 
and  respect ;  indeed,  the  domestic  habits  of  this  nation 
have  much  resemblance  to  the  European.  They  are  a  com- 
pletely wandering  race  of  shepherds  and  robbers,  holding 
in  contempt  all  who  live  in  houses  and  cultivate  the  ground  ; 
yet  they  are,  perhaps,  the  only  native  Africans  who  have 
letters  and  an  alphabet,  which  they  inscribe,  not  on  books 
and  parchments  indeed,  but  on  the  dark  rocks  that  checker 
the  surface  of  their  territory ;  and  in  places  where  they 
have  long  resided  every  stone  is  seen  covered  with  their 
writings.* 

Bilma,  the  capital  of  the  Tibboos,  was  found  a  mean  town 
with  walls  of  earth,  but  surrounded  by  numerous  lakes 
containing  the  purest  salt,  the  most  valuable  of  all  articles 
for  the  commerce  of  Soudan.  The  inhabitants,  however, 
though  deeply  mortified,  durst  not  prevent  the  powerful 
Tuaricks  from  lading  their  caravans  with  it,  and  under- 

*  Th«  group  in  the  accompRnyins  plate  consists  of  a  Tuarick  on  liia 
camel,  wiih  a  uale.and  female  Tibbuo  standing  beside  liim. 


Tuarickon  his  Camel,  with  Male  and  Female  Tibboo.— [p.  134. 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  135 

selling  them  in  all  the  markets.  About  a  mile  beyond  Bilma 
was  a  fine  spring,  spreading  around,  and  forming  a  little 
circle  of  the  richest  verdure.  This  was  the  last  vegetable 
life  that  the  discoverers  were  to  see  during  a  long  march 
of  thirteen  days.  In  these  wilds,  where  the  constant  drift 
causes  hills  to  rise  or  disappear  in  the  course  of  a  night, 
all  traces  of  a  road  are  soon  obliterated,  and  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  is  guided  only  by  dark  rocks  which  at  certain  in- 
tervals raise  their  heads  amid  the  sterile  waste.  Sometimes 
the  sand  is  formed  into  hills  with  perpendicular  sides,  from 
twenty  to  sixty  feet  high.  These  the  camels  are  made  to 
slide  down ;  in  which  operation  they  can  only  be  kept  steady 
by  the  driver  hanging  with  all  his  weight  on  the  tail,  other- 
wise they  would  tumble  forward,  and  throw  the  load  over 
their  heads.  "  Tremendously  dreary  are  these  marches  ; 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  billows  of  sand  bound  the  pros- 
pect." Whenever  the  wind  was  high,  volumes  of  this  sub- 
stance darkened  the  air,  through  which  it  was  sometimes 
impossible  to  attempt  a  passage. 

After  a  fortnight  spent  in  the  Desert,  the  expedition  saw 
symptoms  of  a  return  to  the  region  of  life.  There  appeared 
scattered  spots  of  thin  herbage  ;  little  valleys  watered  by 
springs  were  filled  with  the  shrub  called  suag,  on  which 
grew  delicate  berries  ;  small  herds  of  gazelles  fed  in  these 
retreats  ;  even  the  droves  of  hyenas  indicated  the  revival  of 
animal  nature.  As  the  travellers  advanced,  the  country  im- 
proved ;  at  every  mile  the  valleys  became  more  gay  and 
verdant ;  and  the  creeping  vines  of  the  colocynth  in  full 
bloom,  with  the  red  flowers  of  the  kossom,  converted  many 
of  these  spots  into  a  little  Arcadia.  The  freshness  of  the 
air,  with  the  melody  of  the  hundred  songsters  that  were 
perched  among  the  creeping  plants,  whose  flowers  diffused 
an  aromatic  odour,  formed  the  most  delightful  contrast  to 
the  desolate  region  through  which  they  had  passed.  Here 
again  were  found  Tibboos,  of  the  tribe  called  Gunda,  a  more 
alert  and  active  people  than  the  former  ;  the  men  still 
Uglier,  the  girls  still  handsomer  and  more  delicately 
formed.  This  sept  have  about  5000  camels,  on  whose  milk 
alone  they  support  themselves  for  half  the  year,  and  their 
horses  for  the  whole  year ;  the  little  crop  of  gussuh  and 
millet  being  too  precious  for  these  animals,  which  drink 
camels'  milk,  sweet  or  sour,  and  by  this  strange  diet  are 


136  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

kept  in  the  highest  health  and  condition.  The  chief,  Mina 
Tahr,  or  the  Black  Bird,  waited  upon  the  party,  and  was 
presented  by  Boo  Khalloom  with  a  coarse  scarlet  burnouse 
and  a  tawdry  silk  caftan  :  these  paltry  dresses,  being  the 
finest  that  had  ever  invested  the  person  of  this  chieftain, 
threw  him  into  ecstasies  of  delight,  which  he  continued  for 
hours  to  testify  by  joyful  shouts  and  high  leaps  into  the  air. 
Major  Denham's  watch  singularly  delighted  him ;  but  solely, 
as  soon  appeared,  from  the  pleasure  of  seeing  his  own  per- 
son in  the  bright  metallic  case  ;  so  that  a  very  small  mirror 
was  deemed  still  more  precious. 

In  this  approach  to  the  territory  of  Soudan  the  English 
began  to  witness  the  exercise  of  mutual  plunder  between 
the  caravan  and  the  natives.  Every  animal  which  straggled 
from  the  main  body  was  instantly  carried  oft' ;  even  a  dog 
had  been  eaten  up,  and  only  the  bones  left.  A  herald, 
handsomely  equipped,  who  had  been  sent  forward  to  the 
sultan  of  Bornou,  was  found  stripped,  and  tied  naked  to  a 
tree.  On  the  other  hand,  no  sooner  did  the  caravan  come 
in  view  of  any  village  than  the  inhabitants  were  descried  on 
the  plain  beyond  in  full  flight  with  all  their  effects.  The 
Arabs  pursued,  in  indignation  only,  as  they  pretended,  at 
not  being  allowed  to  purchase  what  they  wanted  ;  but  the 
conduct  of  the  poor  natives  was  evidently  the  result  of  long 
experience  ;  and  Major  Denham  saw  executed  on  one  party 
the  most  rapid  process  of  plunder  he  ever  witnessed.  In  a 
few  seconds  the  camels  were  eased  of  their  loads,  and  the  poor 
women  and  girls  stripped  to  the  skin.  Boo  Khalloom,  on  this 
and  other  occasions,  interposed,  and  insisted  on  restitution  ; 
but  whether  he  would  equally  have  done  so  without  the 
urgent  remonstrances  of  the  English  appears  to  be  doubtful. 

The  expedition,  now  advancing  rapidly,  entered  Kanem, 
the  most  northern  province  of  Bornou,  and  soon  arrived  at 
Lari,  a  town  of  two  thousand  inhabitants,  composed  of 
clusters  of  rush-huts,  conical  at  top,  and  looking  like  well- 
thatched  corn-stacks.  This  place  formed  a  remarkable 
stage  in  their  progress  ;  for,  from  the  rising  ground  in  front 
of  it  was  seen  stretching  out  the  boundless  expanse  of  the 
great  interior  sea  of  Africa,  the  lake  Tchad,  "  glowing  with 
the  golden  rays  of  the  sun."  Major  Denham,  who  saw 
here  the  key  to  his  grand  scheme  of  discovery,  hastened 
down  to  the  shores  of  tliid  mighty  water.     These  were 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 


137 


M  2 


138  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

darkened  with  the  varied  and  beautiful  plumage  of  ducks, 
geese,  pelicans,  and  cranes  four  or  five  feet  high,  immense 
spoonbills  of  snowy  whiteness,  yellow-legged  plovers,  with 
numerous  unknown  waterfowl,  sporting  around,  and  quietly 
feeding  at  half  pistol-shot.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  that 
Major  Denham  should  have  felt  reluctant  to  invade  the  pro- 
found tranquillity  of  these  feathered  tribes,  and  betray  the 
confidence  with  which  they  received  him.  At  last,  over- 
coming his  scruples,  he  took  up  his  gun,  and  soon  filled  a 
large  basket.  It  was  evident  here,  that  remarkable  changes 
in  the  bed  of  the  Tchad  had  recently  taken  place  ;  for, 
though  this  was  not  the  rainy  season,  long  stalks  of  the 
grain  called  gussub  were  growing  amid  the  waters  on  ground 
formerly  dry. 

The  caravan  now  marched  along  the  shores  of  the  lake, 
and  arrived  in  two  days  at  Woodie,  a  large  town,  the  first 
which  was  found  thoroughly  negro.  The  inhabitants  lived 
in  sluggish  plenty,  on  the  produce  of  a  fertile  country,  with- 
out any  attempt  to  obtain  either  elegancies  or  luxuries.  It 
was  resolved  that  the  caravan  should  pause  here,  till  a  mes- 
senger could  be  sent  forward  to  obtain  for  them  invitation, 
or  pennission,  to  present  themselves  before  the  sheik  of 
Bornou.  The  political  state  of  that  country  was  at  this 
time  somewhat  singular.  Twenty  years  before  it  had  been 
overrun  and  completely  conquered,  with  the  most  dreadful 
devastation,  by  the  Fellatas,  a  western  people,  to  whose  em- 
pire Bornou  seemed  to  have  been  finally  annexed.  There 
still  remained,  however,  a  spirit  in  the  people  which  spumed 
at  a  foreign  yoke.  The  present  sheik,  a  native  of  Kanem, 
of  humble  birth,  but  of  superior  talents  and  energy,  rallied 
round  him  a  band  of  bold  spearmen,  and,  animating  them  by 
a  pretended  vision  of  the  prophet,  hoisted  the  green  flag, 
and  attacked  the  invaders.  His  success  was  such,  that  in 
ten  months  the  Fellatas  were  completely  driven  out  of  Bor- 
nou, which  they  had  never  since  re-entered,  though  desul- 
tory hostilities  were  still  waged  between  the  two  nations. 
This  leader,  idolized  by  the  army  who  had  conquered  under 
him,  was  now  the  real  master  of  the  country,  yet  the  reve- 
rence of  the  nation  for  their  ancient  line  of  kings  was  too 
deep  to  allow  the  legitimate  heir  to  be  wholly  superseded. 
He  was  drawn  forth  from  obscurity,  received  the  title  of  sul- 
tan, and  was  established  in  empty  pomp  at  the  city  of 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  139 

Bimie ;  while  the  successful  soldier,  under  an  humbler  name, 
retained  in  his  own  hands  all  the  real  power  of  the  kingdom. 
After  five  days  an  invitation  arrived  from  the  sheik  to 
visit  him  at  Kouka,  for  which  city  the  travellers  immediately 
departed.  In  their  way  they  passed  the  Yeou,  the  first  river 
of  any  description  which  had  crossed  their  path  in  this  long 
journey,  exciting  considerable  interest  from  being  for  a  mo- 
ment supposed  to  be  the  Niger  flowing  from  Timbuctoo. 
The  stream  was  fifty  yards  broad,  and  proceeded  with  some 
rapidity  eastward  into  the  Tchad  :  in  the  wet  season  its 
breadth  became  twice  as  great.  On  the  bank,  for  the  con- 
venience of  passengers,  lay  two  large  canoes,  rudely  put  to- 
gether, constructed  of  planks  fastened  by  cords,  and  having 
the  openings  stuffed  with  straw.  The  men  and  goods  were 
ferried  over  on  these  rafts,  while  the  horses  and  camels, 
having  their  heads  fastened  to  them,  swam  across. 

In  approaching  Kouka  Major  Denham  experienced  con- 
siderable emotion,  in  consequence  of  the  contradictory  re- 
ports which  he  heard  respecting  the  array  and  aspect  of 
this  great  central  court  of  Africa.  Some  told  him  that  the 
sheik  was  surrounded  by  a  mere  handful  of  half-armed,  half- 
naked  negroes,  fit  only  for  plunder  ;  while,  according  to 
others,  he  was  at  the  head  of  a  numerous  cavalry,  highly 
equipped  and  well-disciplined.  The  Major  pressed  eagerly 
forward  before  the  main  body,  and,  emerging  from  the 
forest,  had  liis  curiosity  gratified  by  seeing  a  body  of  several 
thousand  horse  drawn  up  in  line,  and  extending  on  each 
eide  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  He  now  awaited  the 
coming  up  of  the  Arabs  ;  at  sight  of  whom  the  Bomou 
troops,  who  had  previously  stood  immoveable,  raised  a 
mighty  shout  or  yell,  which  rent  the  air,  followed  by  a  sound 
equally  loud  of  rude  martial  music.  Then,  forming  de- 
tached parties,  they  galloped  up  full  speed  to  the  strangers, 
never  pausing  till  they  almost  touched  the  horses'  heads, 
when  they  suddenly  wheeled  round  and  returned,  exclaim- 
ing, "  Blessing  !  blessing  !  sons  of  your  country  !  sons  of 
your  country  !"  They  had  soon  completely  surrounded  the 
party,  and  wedged  them  in  so  close,  waving  their  spears 
over  their  heads,  that  it  was  impossible  for  the  strangers  to 
move.  Boo  Khalloom  had  nearly  lost  all  patience  at  this 
vehement  and  incommodious  welcome  ;  but  at  length  Bares 
Gana,  the  commander-in-chief,  made  his  appearance,  re- 


140  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

stored  order,  and  caused  a  way  to  be  opened,  by  which  t^iO 
caravan,  though  somewhat  slowly,  at  length  made  its  way 
to  the  city. 

But,  after  their  arrival  at  Kouka,  symptoms  of  jealousy 
appeared,  and  only  twelve  of  the  principal  persons,  the  Eng- 
lish included,  were  allowed  to  enter.  They  were  led 
through  a  wide  street,  lined  with  spearmen,  to  the  door  of 
the  sheik's  residence.  Here  'the  principal  courtiers  came 
out  in  succession,  and  welcomed  the  party  with  cries  of 
*'  Barca  !  Barca  !"  but  as  no  one  invited  them  to  go  in,  the 
wrath  of  Boo  Khalloom,  who  held  himself  scarcely  inferior 
to  the  sheik,  was  kindled,  and  he  declared  that,  unless  im 
mediately  admitted,  he  would  return  to  his  tent.  A  chief 
merely  waved  his  hand  as  a  signal  for  patience  ;  but  at  last 
Barca  Gana  appeared,  and  invited  the  Arab  leader  to  enter 
alone.  Another  half-hour  elapsed  ere  the  gates  were  again 
opened,  and  the  four  Englishmen  were  called.  They  found, 
on  the  present  as  well  as  on  other  occasions,  the  etiquette 
of  this  barbarian  court  extremely  rigid,  and  enforced  too  in 
a  manner  the  most  rough  and  imceremonious.  They  were 
allowed  to  walk  only  one  by  one,  and,  when  thought  to  be 
going  too  fast,  the  guards  grasped  them  by  the  leg  so  ab- 
ruptly that  they  could  with  difficulty  avoid  falling  flat  for- 
ward ;  and  when  it  was  time  to  stop,  instead  of  their  being 
told  so,  spears  were  crossed  before  them,  and  the  palm  of 
the  hand  applied  to  their  breast.  At  the  close  of  all  this 
ceremony,  they  found  the  sheik  quietly  seated  on  a  carpet, 
plainly  dressed,  m  a  small  dark  room,  ornamented  solely  with 
guns  and  pistols,  which  he  had  received  in  presents  from 
crowned  heads,  and  esteemed  the  most  rare  and  precious  of 
decorations.  He  appeared  about  forty  or  forty-five  years  of 
age,  and  his  countenance  was  pleasing  and  expressive.  He 
inquired  their  object  in  visiting  Bomou  ;  when,  being  in- 
formed that  they  had  come  merely  to  see  the  country,  and 
to  give  an  account  of  its  appearance,  produce,  and  people, 
he  engaged  to  forward  their  views,  and  even  to  gratify  their 
wishes  to  the  utmost  of  his  power.  Such  motives,  however, 
afterward  proved  entirely  incomprehensible  to  his  illiterate 
inind. 

Major  Denham  next  day  waited  again  on  the  sheik  and 
delivered  his  presents.  A  double-barrelled  gun  and  two  pis- 
tols, with  powder-flask,  and  shot-cases,  were  examined  by  the 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  141 

rfiief  with  the  most  minute  attention  ;  the  other  gifts,  con- 
sisting of  fine  cloths,  spices,  and  porcelain,  were  no  sooner 
produced  than  the  slaves  carried  them  off.  The  African 
was  particularly  gratified  on  being  told  that  the  king  of  Eng- 
land had  heard  of  him,  and  said,  turning  to  his  captains, 
*<  This  must  be  in  consequence  of  our  having  defeated  the 
Begharmis;"  upon  which  Bagah  Furby,  a  grim  old  soldier, 
who  had  made  a  figure  in  that  war,  came  forward  and  asked, 
"  Did  he  ever  hear  of  me  ?"  Major  Denham  scrupled  not  to 
answ^er  "  Certainly  ;"  when  the  whole  party  instantly  called 
out,  "  Oh  !  the  king  of  England  must  be  a  great  man." 

The  Major,  in  the  course  of  his  residence  at  Kouka,  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  visiting  the  sheik.  One  day  he 
received  a  message  that  he  must  come  instantly  and  ex- 
hibit a  musical  box  playing  tunes  by  itself,  which  the  other 
understood  to  be  in  his  possession.  This  great  warrior, 
who  had  never  before  shown  any  interest  unless  about  grave 
concerns,  was  quite  enchanted  on  hearing  its  performance, 
and  raised  shouts  of  delight  and  astonishment.  He  exa- 
mined minutely  the  different  parts  of  the  mechanism,  de- 
claring he  would  w^illingly  give  a  thousand  dollars  in  ex- 
change for  it.  The  Major,  unable  to  misunderstand  so 
broad  a  hint,  presented  the  box  to  his  highness.  The  dis- 
play of  sky-rockets  also  caused  the  utmost  amazement  and 
joy,  and  was  even  employed  to  strike  the  enemies  of  the 
sheik  with  superstitious  awe.  Finding  that  our  traveller 
could  speak  Arabic,  and  give  much  information  not  attain- 
able from  any  other  quarter,  Barca  Gana  became  fond  of 
his  conversation,  and  invited  him  to  pay  frequent  «visits. 

It  remained  that  Major  Denham  should  be  introduced  to 
the  sultan  in  his  royal  residence  at  Birnie,  where  all  the 
state  and  pomp  of  the  kingdom,  with  none  of  its  real  power. 
Were  concentrated.  On  the  2d  March,  the  English  ac- 
companied Boo  Khalloom  to  that  city,  and,  on  their  arrival 
there,  the  following  morning  was  fixed  for  the  interview. 
Fashion,  even  in  the  most  refined  European  courts,  does 
not  always  follow  the  absolute  guidance  of  reason  or  taste, 
and  her  magic  power  is  often  displayed  in  converting  de- 
formities into  beauties  ;  but  there  is  certainly  no  court  of 
which  the  taste  is  so  absurd,  grotesque,  or  monstrous,  as 
that  to  which  Major  Denham  was  now  introduced.  An 
enormous  protruding  belly  and  a  huge  misshapen  head  are 
the  two  features  without  which  it  is  vain  to  aspire  to  the 


142  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

rank  of  a  courtier  or  of  a  fine  gentleman.  This  form, 
valued  probably  as  a  type  of  abundance  and  luxury,  is  es- 
teemed so  essential,  that,  where  nature  has  not  bestowed, 
and  the  most  excessive  feeding  and  cramming  cannot 
produce  it,  wadding  is  employed,  and  a  false  belly  pro- 
duced, which,  in  riding,  appears  to  hang  over  the  pummel 
of  the  saddle.  Turbans  also  are  wrapped  round  the  head, 
in  fold  after  fold,  till  it  appears  swelled  on  one  side  to  tho 
most  unnatural  dimensions,  and  only  one-half  of  the  face 
remains  visible.  The  factitious  bulk  of  the  lords  of  Bornou 
is  still  farther  augmented  by  drawing  round  them,  even  in 
this  burning  cHmate,  ten  or  twelve  successive  robes  of 
cotton  or  silk,  while  the  whole  is  covered  over  with  num- 
berless charms  enclosed  in  green  leather  cases.  Yet  under 
all  these  encumbrances  they  do  sometimes  mount  and  take 
the  field  ;  but  the  idea  of  such  unwieldy  hogsheads  being 
of  any  avail  in  the  day  of  battle  appeared  altogether  ridi- 
culous,— and  it  proved  accordingly,  that,  on  such  high  oc- 
casions, they  merely  exhibited  themselves  as  ornaments, 
without  making  even  a  show  of  encountering  the  enemy. 

With  about  300  of  this  puissant  chivalry  before  and 
around  him,  the  sultan  was  himself  seated  near  the  garden- 
door  in  a  sort  of  cane  basket  covered  with  silk,  and  his 
face  entirely  shaded  beneath  a  turban  of  more  than  the  usua] 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  143 

magnitude.  The  presents  were  silently  deposited ;  nothing 
passed  ;  and  the  courtiers,  tottering  beneath  the  weight  of 
their  turbans  and  their  bellies,  could  not  display  that  punc- 
tilious activity  which  had  been  so  annoying  at  the  palace 
of  the  sheik.  This  was  all  that  was  ever  seen  of  the 
sultan  of  Bornou.  The  party  then  set  out  for  Kouka, 
passing,  on  their  way,  through  Angomou,  the  largest  city 
in  the  kingdom,  containing  at  least  30,000  inhabitants. 

During  his  residence  at  Kouka  and  Angomou,  Major 
Denham  frequently  attended  the  markets,  where,  besides 
the  proper  Bornouese,  he  saw  the  Shouaas,  an  Arab  tribe, 
who  are  the  chief  breeders  of  cattle  ;  the  Kanemboos  from 
the  north,  with  their  hair  neatly  and  tastefully  plaited  ;  and 
the  Musgow,  a  southern  clan  of  the  most  savage  aspect. 
A  loose  robe  or  shirt,  of  the  cotton  cloth  of  the  country, 
often  fine  and  beautifully  died,  was  the  universal  dress  ; 
and  high  rank  was  indicated  by  six  or  seven  of  these  worn 
one  above  another.  Ornament  was  studied  chiefly  in 
plaiting  the  hair,  in  attaching  to  it  strings  of  brass  or  silver 
beads,  in  inserting  large  pieces  of  amber  or  coral  into  the 
nose,  the  ear,  and  the  Up ;  and  when  to  these  was  added  a  face 
streaming  with  oil,  the  Bornouese  belle  was  fully  equipped 
for  conquest.  Thus  adorned,  the  wife  or  daughter  of  a 
rich  Shouaa  might  be  seen  entering  the  market  in  fiill 
style,  bestriding  an  ox,  which  she  managed  dexterously  by 
a  leathern  thong  passed  through  the  nose,  and  whose  un- 
wieldly  bulk  she  contrived  even  to  torture  into  something 
like  capering  and  curvetting.  Angomou  is  the  chief  mar- 
ket, and  the  crowd  there  is  sometimes  immense,  amounting 
often  to  eighty  or  a  hundred  thousand  individuals.  All  the 
produce  of  the  country  is  bought  and  sold  in  open  market ; 
for  shops  and  warehouses  do  not  enter  into  the  system  of 
African  traffic.  There  is  displayed  an  abundance  of  their 
principal  grain,  called  gussub,  a  good  deal  of  wheat  and  rice, 
an  ample  store  of  bullocks,  and  no  small  number  of  sheep  and 
fowls ;  but  not  a  vegetable  except  a  few  onions,  nor  a  sin- 
gle fmit  of  any  kind, — the  Bornouese  not  having  attained 
to  the  production  of  these  elegant  luxuries.  The  objects 
most  prized  and  rare  are  pieces  of  amber,  coral,  and  brass, 
to  adorn  the  countenances  of  the  females  ;  these  are  sold 
readily,  and  paid  in  money,  while  other  articles  are  only 
exchanged  for  cloth.    Among  other  rarities  are  sometimes 


144  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

offered  young  lions,  to  be  kept  as  domestic  favourites.  TBa 
Major  found  one  of  them  enclosed  by  a  circle  of  spectator*, 
and  was  invited  to  step  up  and  stroke  it  on  the  mane.  He 
was  about  to  comply,  though  with  sensations  which  he 
admits  himself  unable  to  describe,  when  the  animal  sud- 
denly brushed  past  him,  broke  through  the  circle,  and 
rushed  to  another  station.  The  sheik  was  afterward  kind 
enough  to  send  him  a  young  lion  as  a  pet,  which  the  Major 
politely  returned,  expressing  regret  at  not  being  able  to 
find  room  for  so  fine  a  specimen  of  Afi*ican  zoology. 

Bomou,  taken  altogether,  forms  an  extensive  plain, 
stretching  200  miles  along  the  western  shore  of  the  im- 
mense lake  already  mentioned,  and  nearly  the  same  dis- 
tance inland.  This  sea  periodically  changes  its  bed  in  an 
extraordinary  manner.  During  the  rains,  when  its  tri- 
butary rivers  pour  in  thrice  the  usual  quantity  of  water,  it 
inundates  an  extensive  tract  of  country,  from  which  it  re- 
tires in  the  dry  season.  This  space,  then  overgrown  with 
dense  underwood,  and  with  grass  double  the  height  of  a 
man,  contains  a  motley  assemblage  of  wild  beasts, — lions, 
panthers,  hyenas,  elephants,  and  serpents  of  extraordinary 
form  and  bulk.  These  monsters,  while  undisturbed  in 
this  mighty  den,  remain  tranquil,  or  war  only  with  each 
other ;  but  when  the  lake  swells,  and  its  waters  rush  iH, 
they  of  necessity  seek  refuge  among  the  abodes  of  men,  to 
whom  they  prove  the  most  dreadful  scourge.  Not  only  the 
cattle,  but  the  slaves  tending  the  grain,  often  fall  victims  ; 
they  even  rush  in  large  bodies  into  the  towns.  The  rest 
of  the  country,  placed  beyond  the  reach  of  this  annual  in- 
undation, is  in  many  places  very  fertile ;  and  cultivation  is 
so  limited  that  land  may  always  be  had  in  any  quantity  by 
him  who  has  slaves  to  employ  upon  it.  This  service  is 
performed  by  female  captives  from  Musgow,  who,  aiding 
their  native  ugliness  by  the  insertion  of  a  large  piece  of 
silver  into  the  upper-lip,  which  throws  it  entirely  out  of 
shape,  are  coveted  in  no  other  view  than  for  the  quantity 
of  hard  work  which  they  can  execute.  The  processes  of 
agriculture  are  extremely  simple.  Their  only  fine  manufac- 
ture is  that  of  tohcs,  or  vestments  of  cotton  skilftilly  woven 
and  beautifiiUy  died,  but  still  not  equal  to  those  of  Soudan. 
In  every  other  handicraft  they  are  very  inexpert, — even  in 
vrorks  of  iron,  which  are  of  the  greatest  use  to  a  martial  people. 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 


145 


The  Bomouese  have,  however,  an  ingenious  mode,  re- 
prssentedin  the  accompanying  plate,  of  fishing  with  a  very 


simple  apparatus.  They  take  two  large  gourds,  and  fasten 
them  at  each  end  to  a  stem  of  bamboo.  The  fisherman 
seats  himself  upon  this  machine,  floats  with  the  current, 
and  throws  his  net.  On  drawing  it  up,  he  lays  it  before 
him,  stuns  the  fish  with  a  species  of  mace,  and  piles  them 
into  the  geurds.  They  are  afterward  dried,  and  conveyed 
over  the  country  to  a  considerable  distance. 

The  Bomouese  are  complete  negroes  both  in  form  and 
feature  ;  they  are  ugly,  simple,  and  good-natured,  but  des- 
titute of  all  intellectual  culture.  Only  a  few  of  the  great 
fights,  or  doctors,  of  whom  the  sheik  was  one,  can  read  the 
Koran.  A  "  great  writer,"  indeed,  is  held  in  still  higher 
estimation  than  with  us ;  but  his  compositions  consist  only 
of  words  written  on  scraps  of  paper,  to  be  enclosed  in  cases, 
and  worn  as  amulets.  They  are  then  supposed  to  defend 
their  possessor  against  every  danger,  to  act  as  charms  to 
destroy  his  enemies,  and  to  be  the  main  instrument  in  the 
cure  of  all  diseases.  For  this  last  purpose  they  are  aided 
only  by  a  few  simple  applications  ;  yet  the  Bomou  practice 
is  said  to  be  very  successful,  either  through  the  power  of 
imagination,  or  owmg  to  their  excellent  constitutions.  In 
N 


146  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

the  absence  of  all  refined  pleasures,  various  rude  sports  are 
pursued  with  eagerness,  and  almost  with  fury.  The  most 
favourite  is  wrestling,  which  the  chiefs  do  not  practise  in 
person,  but  train  their  slaves  to  exhibit  in  it  as  our  jockeys 
do  game-cocks,  taking  the  same  pride  in  their  prowess  and 
victory.  Nations  are  often  pitched  against  each  other,  the 
Musgowy  and  the  Begharmi  being  the  most  powerful. 
Many  of  them  are  extremely  handsome  and  of  gigantic 
size,  and  hence  the  contests  between  them  are  truly  ter- 
rible. Their  masters  loudly  cheer  them  on,  offering 
high  premiums  for  victory,  and  sometimes  threatening  in- 
stant death  in  case  of  defeat.  They  place  their  trust,  not 
in  science,  but  in  main  strength  and  rapid  movements. 
Occasionally  the  wrestler,  eluding  his  adversary's  vigilance, 
seizes  him  by  the  thigh,  lifts  him  up  into  the  air,  and  dashes 
him  against  the  ground.  When  the  match  is  decided,  the 
victor  is  greeted  with  loud  plaudits  by  the  spectators,  some 
of  whom  even  testify  their  admiration  by  throwing  to  him 
presents  of  fine  cloth.  He  then  kneels  before  his  master, 
who  not  unfrequently  bestows  upon  him  a  robe  worth  thirty 
or  forty  dollars,  taken  perhaps  from  his  own  person.  Death 
or  maiming,  however,  is  no  unfrequent  result  of  these  en- 
counters. The  ladies,  even  of  rank,  engage  in  another 
very  odd  species  of  contest.  Placing  themselves  back  to 
back,  they  cause  particular  parts  to  strike  together  with  the 
most  violent  colUsion,  when  she  who  maintains  her  equili- 
brium, while  the  other  lies  stretched  on  the  ground,  is  pro- 
claimed victor  with  loud  cheers.  In  this  conflict  the  girdle 
of  beads  worn  by  the  more  opulent  females  very  frequently 
bursts,  when  these  ornaments  are  seen  flying  about  in  every 
direction.  To  these  elegant  recreations  is  added  gaming, 
always  the  rage  of  uncultivated  minds.  Their  favourite 
game  is  one  rudely  played  with  beans,  by  means  of  holes 
made  in  the  sand. 

Boo  Khalloom,  having  despatched  his  affairs  in  Bomou, 
wished  to  turn  his  journey  to  some  farther  account,  and 
proposed  an  expedition  into  the  more  wealthy  and  commer- 
cial region  o§  Houssa  or  Soudan ;  but  the  eager  wishes  of 
his  followers  pointed  to  a  different  object.  They  called 
upon  him  to  lead  them  into  the  mountains  of  Mandara  in 
the  south,  to  attack  a  village  of  the  kerdies,  or  unbelievers, 
and  carry  off  the  people  as  slaves  to  Fezzan.    He  feng 


DENHAM  AND  CtAPPERTON.  147 

'Stood  out  against  this  nefarious  proposal ;  but  the  sheik, 
who  also  had  his  own  views,  took  part  against  him  ;  even 
his  own  brother  joined  the  malecontents,  and  at  length  there 
appeared  no  other  mode  in  which  he  could  return  with 
equal  credit  and  profit.  Influenced  by  these  inducements, 
he  suflfered  his  better  judgment  to  be  overpowered,  and  de- 
termined to  conduct  his  troop  upon  this  perilous  and 
guilty  excursion.  Major  Denham,  allowing  his  zeal  for 
discovery  to  overcome  other  considerations,  contrived,  not- 
withstanding the  prohibition  of  the  sheik,  to  be  one  of  the 
party.  They  were  accompanied  by  Barca  Gana,  the  prin- 
cipal general,  a  negro  of  huge  strength  and  great  courage, 
along  with  other  warriors,  and  a  large  body  of  Bornou 
cavalry.  These  last  are  a  fine  military  body  in  point  of  ex- 
ternal appearance.  Their  persons  are  covered  with  iron, 
plate  and  mail,  and  they  manage,  with  surprising  dexterity, 
their  little  active  steeds,  which  are  also  supplied  with  de- 
fensive armour.  They  have  one  fault  only,  but  that  a  se- 
rious one, — ^they  cannot  stand  the  shock  of  an  enemy. 
While  the  contest  continues  doubtful,  they  hover  round  as 
spectators,  ready,  should  the  tide  turn  against  them,  to  spur 
on  their  coursers  to  a  rapid  flight ;  but  if  they  see  their 
friends  victorious,  and  the  enemy  turning  their  backs,  they 
come  forward  and  display  no  small  vigour  in  pursuit  and 
plunder. 

The  road  that  led  to  Mandara  formed  a  continued  ascent 
through  a  fertile  country  which  contained  some  populous 
towns.  The  path  being  quite  overgrown  with  thick  and 
prickly  underwood,  twelve  pioneers  went  forward  with  long 
poles,  opening  a  track,  pushing  back  the  branches,  and 
giving  warning  to  beware  of  holes.  These  operations  they 
accompanied  with  loud  praises  of  Barca  Gana,  calling  out, 
— "  Who  is  in  battle  like  the  rolling  of  thunder  ]  Barca 
Gana.  In  battle,  who  spreads  terror  around  him  like  the 
bufllalo  in  his  rage  1  Barca  Gana."  Even  the  chiefs  on  this 
expedition  carried  no  provisions  except  a  paste  of  rice,  flour, 
and  honey,  with  which  they  contented  themselves,  unless 
when  sheep  could  be  procured ;  in  which  case  half  the  ani- 
mal, roasted  over  a  frame-work  of  wood,  was  placed  on  the 
table,  and  the  sharpest  dagger  present  was  employed  in  cut- 
ting it  into  large  pieces,  to  be  eaten  without  bread  or  salt. 
At  length  they  approached  Mora,  the  capital  of  Mandara. 


143  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

This  was  another  kingdom  which  the  energy  of  tts  present 
fiultan  had  rescued  from  the  yoke  of  the  Fellata  empire ; 
and  the  strong  position  of  its  capital,  enclosed  by  lofty  ridges 
of  hills,  had  enabled  it  to  defy  repeated  attacks.  It  consists 
of  a  fine  plain,  bordered  on  the  south  by  an  immense  and 
almost  interminable  range  of  mountains.  The  eminences 
directly  in  front  were  not  quite  so  lofty  as  the  hills  of  Cum- 
berland, but  bold,  rocky,  and  precipitous,  and  distant  sum- 
mits appeared  towering  much  higher,  and  shooting  up  a  line 
of  sharp  pinnacles  resembling  the  needles  of  Mont  Blanc. 
It  was  reported,  that  two  months  were  required  to  cross 
their  greatest  breadth  and  reach  the  other  side,  where  they 
rose  ten  times  higher,  and  were  called  large  moon  moun- 
tains. They  there  overlooked  the  plain  of  Adamowa, 
through  which  the  QuoUa  (or  Niger)  was  said  to  flow  from 
the  westward.  The  hills  immediately  in  view  were  thickly 
clustered  with  villages  perched  on  their  sides  and  even  on 
their  tops,  and  were  distinctly  seen  from  the  plain  of  Man- 
dara.  They  were  occupied  by  half-savage  tribes,  whom  the 
ferocious  bigotry  of  the  nations  occupying  the  low  country 
branded  as  pagans,  and  whom  they  claimed  a  right  to  plun- 
der, seize,  and  drive  in  crowds  for  sale  to  the  markets  of 
Fezzan  and  Bomou.  "  The  fires,  which  were  visible  in  the 
difierent  nests  of  these  unfortunate  beings,  threw  a  glare 
upon  iuC  bold  rocks  and  blunt  promontories  of  granite  by 
which  they  were  surroiindexl,  and  produced  a  picturesque 
and  somewhat  awfiil  appearance."  A  baleful  joy  gleamed 
in  the  visage  of  the  Arabs  as  they  eyed  these  abodes  of  theix 
future  victims,  whom  they  already  fancied  themselves 
drivinor  in  bands  across  the  Desert.  A  kerdy  village  to 
plunder  was  all  their  cry,  and  Boo  Khalloom  doubted  not 
that  he  would  be  able  to  gratify  their  wishes.  Their  com^ 
mon  fear  of  the  Fellatas  had  united  the  sultan  of  Mandara 
in  close  alliance  with  the  sheik,  to  whom  he  had  lately  mar- 
ried his  daughter  ;  and  the  nuptials  had  been  celebrated  by 
a  great  slave-hunt  among  the  mountains,  when,  after  a 
dreadful  struggle,  three  thousand  captives,  by  their  tears 
and  bondage,  furnished  out  the  materials  of  a  magnificent 
marriage-festival. 

The  expedition  obtained  a  reception  quite  as  favourable 
as  had  been  expected.  In  approaching  the  capital  they 
were  met  by  the  sultan  with  5Q0  Mandara  horse,  who, 


DGNHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  149 

charging  full  speed,  wheeled  round  them  with  the  same 
threatening  movements  which  had  been  exhibited  at  Bor- 
nou.  The  horses  were  of  a  superior  breed,  most  skilfully 
managed,  and  covered  with  cloths  of  various  colours,  as  well 
as  with  skins  of  the  leopard  and  tiger-cat.  This  cavalry- 
made  of  course  a  very  brilliant  appearance  ;  but  the  Major 
did  not  yet  know  that  their  valour  was  exactly  on  a  level 
with  that  of  their  Bornou  allies.  The  party  were  then 
escorted  to  the  capital,  amid  the  music  of  long  pipes  like 
clarionets,  and  of  two  immense  trumpets.  They  were  in- 
troduced next  day.  The  mode  of  approaching  the  royal  re- 
sidence is  to  gallop  up  to  the  gate  with  a  furious  speed,  which 
often  causes  fatal  accidents  ;  and  on  this  occasion  a  man  was 
ridden  down  and  killed  on  the  spot.  The  sultan  was  found 
in  a  dark-blue  tent,  sitting  on  a  mud-bench,  surrounded  by 
about  two  hundred  attendants,  handsomely  arrayed  in 
silk  and  cotton  robes.  He  was  an  intelligent  little  man, 
about  fifty  years  old,  with  a  beard  dyed  sky-blue.  Courteous 
salutations  were  exchanged  ;  during  which  he  steadily  eyed 
Major  Denham,  concerning  whom  he  at  last  inquired  ;  and 
the  traveller  was  advantageously  introduced  as  belonging  to 
a  powerful  distant  nation,  allies  of  the  bashaw  of  Tripoli. 
At  last,  however,  came  the  fatal  question, — "  Is  he  Moslem  1 
— La !  la  I — no  !  no  I — What !  has  the  great  bashaw  Caffre 
friends]" — Every  eye  was  instantly  averted;  the  sun  of 
Major  Denham's  favour  was  set ;  and  he  was  never  more 
allowed  to  enter  the  palace. 

The  bigotry  of  this  court  seems  to  have  surpassed  even 
the  usual  bitterness  of  the  African  tribes,  and  our  traveller 
had  to  undergo  a  regular  persecution,  carried  on  especially 
by  Malem  Chadily,  the  leading  fighi  or  doctor  of  the  court. 
As  Major  Denham  was  showing  to  the  admiring  chiefs  the 
mode  of  writing  with  a  pencil,  and  effacing  it  with  Indian 
rubber,  Malem  wrote  some  words  of  the  Koran  with  such 
force  that  the  rubber  could  not  wholly  remove  the  traces  of 
them.  He  then  exclaimed  with  triumph,  "  They  are  the 
words  of  God,  delivered  to  his  prophet ;  I  defy  you  to  erase 
them."  The  Major  was  then  called  upon  to  acknowledge 
this  great  miracle  ;  and,  as  his  countenance  still  expressed 
incredulity,  he  was  viewed  with  looks  of  such  mingled  con- 
tempt and  indignation  as  induced  him  to  retire.  Malem, 
however,  again  assailed  him  with  the  assurance  that  thi» 


150  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

was  only  one  of  the  many  miracles  which  he  could  show 
as  wrought  by  the  Koran ;  imploring  him  to  turn,  and  para- 
dise would  be  his,  otherwise  nothing  could  save  him  from 
eternal  fire.  "  Oh!"  said  he,  "while  sitting  in  the  third 
heaven  I  shall  see  you  in  the  midst  of  the  flames,  crying  out 
to  your  friend  Barca  Gana  and  myself  for  a  drop  of  water ; 
but  the  gulf  will  be  between  us  :"  his  tears  then  flowed  pro- 
fusely. The  Major,  taking  the  general  aside,  entreated  to 
be  relieved  from  this  incessant  persecution ;  but  Gana 
assured  him  that  the  fighi  was  a  great  and  holy  man,  to 
whom  he  ought  to  listen.  He  then  held  out  not  only  para- 
dise, but  honours,  slaves,  and  wives  of  the  first  families,  as 
gifts  to  be  lavished  on  him  by  the  sheik  if  he  would  renounce 
his  unbelief.  Major  Denham  asked  the  commander,  what 
would  be  thought  of  himself  if  he  should  go  to  England  and 
turn  Christian  ]  "  God  forbid  !"  exclaimed  he  ;  "  but  how 
can  you  compare  our  faiths  ;  mme  would  lead  you  to  para- 
dise, while  yours  would  bring  me  to  hell.  Not  a  word 
more." — Nothing  appears  to  have  annoyed  the  stranger 
more  than  to  be  told  that  he  was  of  the  same  faith  with  the 
kerdies  or  savages  ;  little  distinction  being  made  between 
any  who  denied  the  Koran.  After  a  long  discussion  of  this 
question,  he  thought  the  validity  of  his  reasoning  would  be 
admitted,  when  he  could  point  to  a  party  of  those  wretches 
devouring  a  dead  horse,  and  appealed  to  Boo  Khalloom  if 
he  had  ever  seen  the  English  do  the  same ;  but  to  this, 
which  was  not  after  all  a  very  deep  theological  argument, 
the  Arab  replied, — "  I  know  they  eat  the  flesh  of  swine, 
and,  God  knows,  that  is  worse." — "  Grant  me  patience," 
exclaimed  I  to  myself, — "  this  is  almost  too  much  to  bear 
,  and  to  remain  silent." 

The  unfortunate  kerdies,  from  the  moment  that  they 
saw  Arab  tents  in  the  valley  of  Mandara,  knew  the  dread- 
ful calamity  which  awaited  them.  To  avert  it,  and  to  pro- 
pitiate the  sultan,  numerous  parties  came  down  with  pre- 
sents of  honey,  asses,  and  slaves.  Finally  appeared  the 
Musgow,  a  more  distant  and  savage  race,  mounted  on 
small  fiery  steeds,  covered  only  with  the  skin  of  a  goat  or 
leopard,  and  with  necklaces  made  of  the  teeth  of  their  ene- 
mies. They  threw  themselves  at  the  feet  of  the  sultan, 
casting  sand  on  their  heads,  and  uttering  the  most  piteous 
cries.    The  monarch,  apparently  moved  by  these  gifts  aod 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  151 

entreaties,  began  to  intimate  to  Boo  Khalloom  his  hopes 
that  these  savages  might  by  gentle  means  be  reclaimed  and 
led  to  embrace  the  true  faith.  These  hopes  were  held  by 
the  latter  in  the  utmost  derision  ;  and  he  privately  assured 
Major  Donham  that  nothing  would  more  annoy  this  devout 
Mussulman  than  to  see  them  fulfilled,  whereby  he  must 
nave  forfeited  all  right  to  drive  these  unhappy  creatures  in 
crowds  to  the  markets  of  Soudan  and  Bornou.  In  fact, 
Doth  the  sultan  and  the  sheik  had  a  much  deeper  aim.  Every 
effort  was  used  to  induce  Boo  Khalloom  to  engage  in  the 
attack  of  some  strong  Fellata  posts,  by  which  the  country 
was  hemmed  in  ;  and  as  the  two  monarchs  viewed  the 
Arabs  with  extreme  jealousy,  it  was  strongly  suspected 
that  their  defeat  would  not  have  been  regarded  as  a  pubHc 
calamity.  The  royal  councils  were  secret  and  profound, 
and  it  was  not  known  what  influences  worked  upon  Boo 
Khalloom.  On  this  occasion  unfortunately  he  was  mas- 
tered by  his  evil  genius,  and  consented  to  the  proposed 
attack ;  but  as  he  came  out  and  ordered  his  troops  to  pre- 
pare for  marching,  his  countenance  bore  such  marks  of 
trouble  that  the  Major  asked  if  all  went  well  1  to  which  he 
hurriedly  answered,  "  Please  God."  The  Arabs,  however, 
who  at  all  events  expected  plunder,  proceeded  with  alacrity. 
The  expedition  set  out  next  morning,  and,  after  passing 
through  a  beautiful  plain,  began  to  penetrate  the  mighty 
chain  of  mountains  which  form  the  southern  border  of  the 
kingdom.  Alpine  heights,  rising  around  them  in  rugged 
magnificence  and  gigantic  grandeur,  presented  scenery 
which  our  traveller  had  never  seen  surpassed.  The  passes 
of  Hairey  and  of  Horza,  amid  a  superb  amphitheatre  of 
hills,  closely  shut  in  by  overhanging  cliffs,  more  than  two 
thousand  feet  high,  were  truly  striking.  Here,  for  the  first 
time  in  Africa,  did  nature  appear  to  the  English  to  revel  in 
the  production  of  vegetable  life.  The  trees  were  covered 
with  luxuriant  and  bright  green  foliage  ;  and  their  trunks 
were  hidden  by  a  crowd  of  parasitical  plants,  whose  aro- 
matic blossoms  perfumed  the  air.  There  was  also  an 
abundance  of  animal  life  of  a  less  agreeable  description : 
three  scorpions  were  killed  in  the  tent ;  and  a  fierce  but 
beautifiil  panther,  more  than  eight  feet  long,  just  as  he  had 
gorged  himself  by  sucking  the  blood  of  a  newly-killed  negro, 
was  attacked  and  speared.    The  sultan  and  Barca  Gana 


152  denhaM  and  clapperton. 

were  attended  by  a  considerable  body  of  Bomou  and  Man* 
dara  cavalry,  whose  brilliant  armour,  martial  aspect,  and 
skilful  horsemanship  gave  confidence  to  the  European 
officer,  who  had  not  yet  seen  them  put  to  the  proof. 

It  was  the  third  day  when  the  expedition  came  in  view  of 
theFellatatownof  Dirkulla.  The  Arabs,  supported  by  Barca 
Gana  and  about  a  hundred  spearmen,  marched  instantly  to 
the  attack,  and  carried  first  that  place,  and  then  a  smaller 
town  beyond  it,  killing  all  who  had  not  time  to  escape. 
The  enemy,  however,  then  intrenched  themselves  in  a 
third  and  stronger  position,  called  Musfeia,  enclosed  by 
high  hills,  and  fortified  in  front  by  numerous  swamps  and 
palisades.  This  was  likewise  attacked,  and  all  its  defences 
forced.  The  guns  of  the  Arabs  spread  terror,  while  Barca 
Gana  threw  eight  spears  with  his  own  hand,  every  one  of 
which  took  effect.  It  was  thought,  that  had  the  two  bodies 
of  cavalry  made  even  a  show  of  advancing,  the  victory  would 
have  been  at  once  decided ;  but  Major  Denham  was  much 
surprised  to  see  those  puissant  warriors  keeping  carefully 
under  cover  behind  a  hill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream, 
where  not  an  arrow  could  reach  them.  The  Fellatas,  see- 
ing that  their  antagonists  were  only  a  handfial,  rallied  on 
the  tops  of  the  hills,  were  joined  by  new  troops,  and  turned 
round.  Their  women  behind,  cheering  them  on,  conti- 
nually supplied  fresh  arrows,  and  rolled  down  fragments  of 
rock  on  the  assailants.  These  arrows  were  fatal ;  they 
•were  tipped  with  poison,  and  wherever  they  pierced  the  body 
in  a  few  hours  became  black,  blood  gushed  from  every 
orifice,  and  the  victim  expired  in  agony.  The  condition  of 
the  Arabs  soon  became  alarming ;  scarcely  a  man  was  left 
unhurt,  and  their  horses  were  dying  under  them.  Boo 
Khalloom  and  his  charger  were  both  wounded  with  poi- 
soned arrow^s.  As  soon  as  the  Fellatas  saw  the  Arabs 
waver,  they  dashed  in  with  their  horse  ;  at  sight  of  which 
all  the  heroic  squadrons  of  Bornou  and  Mandara  put  spurs 
to  their  steeds,  the  sultan  at  their  head,  and  the  whole  be- 
came one  mass  of  confused  and  tumultuous  flight.  Major 
Denham  saw  too  late  the  peril  into  which  he  had  wantonly 
plunged.  His  horse,  pierced  to  the  shoulder-bone,  could 
scarcely  support  his  weight ;  but  the  cries  of  the  pursuing 
Fellatas  still  urged  him  forward.  At  last  the  animal  fell 
twice,  and  the  second  time  threw  him  against  a  tree,  then, 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  153 

frightened  by  the  noise  behind,  started  up  and  ran  off. 

The  Fellatas  were  instantly  up,  when  four  of  his  compa- 
nions were  stabbed  beside  him,  uttering  the  most  frightful 
cries.  He  himself  was  fully  prepared  for  the  same  fate  ; 
but  happily  his  clothes  formed  a  valuable  booty,  through 
which  the  savages  were  loath  to  run  their  spears.  After  in- 
flicting some  slight  wounds,  therefore,  they  stripped  him  to 
the  skin,  and  forthwith  began  to  quarrel  about  the  plunder. 
While  they  were  thus  busied,  he  contrived  to  slip  away, 
and  though  hotly  pursued,  and  nearly  overtaken,  succeeded 
in  reaching  a  mountain-stream  gliding  at  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  and  precipitous  ravine.  Here  he  had  snatched  the 
young  branches  issuing  from  the  stump  of  a  large  over- 
hanging tree,  in  order  to  let  himself  down  into  the  water, 
when,  beneath  his  hand,  a  large  liffa,  the  most  dangerous 
serpent  in  this  country,  rose  from  its  coil,  as  in  the  very 
act  of  darting  upon  him.  Struck  with  horror.  Major  Den- 
ham  lost  all  recollection,  and  fell  headlong  into  the  water ; 
but  the  shock  revived  him,  and,  with  three  strokes  of  his  arm, 
he  reached  the  opposite  bank,  and  felt  himself  for  luvj  mo- 
ment in  safety.  Running  forward,  he  was  delighted  to  see 
his  friends  Barca  Gana  and  Boo  Khalloom ;  but  amid  the 
cheers  with  which  they  were  endeavouring  to  rally  their 
troops,  and  the  cries  of  those  who  were  falling  under  the 
Fellata  spears,  he  could  not  for  some  time  make  himself 
heard.  Then  Maramy,  a  negro  appointed  by  the  sheik  to 
attend  on  him,  rode  up  and  took  him  on  his  own  horse. 
Boo  Khalloom  ordered  a  burnouse  to  be  thrown  over  him, — - 
very  seasonably,  for  the  burning  sun  had  begun  to  blister 
his  naked  body.  Suddenly,  however,  Maramy  called  out, 
*'  See,  see  !  Boo  Khalloom  is  dead !"  and  that  spirited 
chief,  overpowered  by  the  wound  of  a  poisoned  arrow, 
dropped  from  his  horse,  and  spoke  no  more.  The  others 
now  thought  only  of  pressing  their  flight,  and  soon  reached 
a  stream,  where  they  refreshed  themselves  by  copious 
draughts,  and  a  halt  was  made  to  collect  the  stragglers. 
Major  Denham  here  fell  into  a  swoon ;  during  which,  as 
he  afterward  learned,  Maramy  complained  that  the  jaded 
horse  could  scarcely  carry  the  stranger  forward,  when  Barca 
Gana  said,-^"  By  the  head  of  the  prophet !  believers  enough 
have  breathed  their  last  to-day  ;  why  should  we  concern 
.liiselyes  about  a  Christian's  death?'    Malem  Chadily, 


154  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

however,  so  bitter  as  a  theological  opponent,  showed  no^^ 
the  influence  of  a  milder  spirit,  and  said, — "  No,  God  haa 
preserved  him  ;  let  us  not  abandon  him ;"  and  Maramy 
declared, — "  His  heart  told  him  what  to  do."  They  there- 
fore moved  on  slowly  till  about  midnight,  when  they  passed 
the  Mandara  frontier  in  a  state  of  severe  suffering ;  but  the 
Major  met  with  much  kindness  from  a  dethroned  prince, 
Mai  Meegamy,  who,  seeing  his  wounds  festering  under  the 
rough  woollen  cloak  which  formed  his  only  covering,  took 
off  his  own  trousers  and  gave  them  to  him. 

The  Arabs  had  lost  forty-five  of  their  number,  besides 
their  chief ;  the  rest  were  in  a  miserable  plight,  most  of 
them  wounded,  some  mortally,  and  all  having  lost  their 
camels  and  the  rest  of  their  property.     Renouncing  their 

Eride,  they  were  obliged  to  supplicate  from  Barca  Gana  a 
andfiil  of  corn  to  keep  them  from  starving.  The  sultan 
of  Mandara,  in  whose  cause  they  had  suffered,  treated  them 
with  the  utmost  contumely,  which  perhaps  they  might  de- 
serve, but  certainly  not  from  him.  Deep  sorrow  was  after- 
ward felt  in  Fezzan  when  they  arrived  in  this  deplorable 
condition  and  reported  the  fall  of  their  chief,  who  was  there 
almost  idolized.  A  national  song  was  composed  on  the 
occasion,  which  the  following  extract  will  show  to  be 
marked  by  great  depth  of  feeling,  and  not  altogether  devoid 
of  poetical  beauty  : — 

"  Oh  !  trust  not  to  the  gun  and  the  sword !  The  spear 
of  the  unbeliever  prevails  ! 

"  Boo  Khalloom,  the  good  and  the  brave,  has  fallen !  Who 
shall  now  be  safe  1  Even  as  the  moon  among  the  little 
stars,  so  was  Boo  Khalloom  among  men  !  Where  shall 
Fezzan  now  look  for  her  protector  1  Men  hang  their  heads 
In  sorrow,  while  women  wring  their  hands,  rending  the  air 
with  their  cries  !  As  a  shepherd  is  to  his  flock,  so  was  Boo 
Khalloom  to  Fezzan ! 

"  Give  him  songs  !  Give  him  music  !  WTiat  words  can 
equal  his  praise  1  His  heart  was  as  large  as  the  desert ! 
His  coffers  were  like  the  rich  overflowings  from  the  udder 
of  the  she-camel,  comforting  and  nourishing  those  around 
him! 

"  Even  as  the  flowers  without  rain  perish  in  the  fields,  so 
will  the  Fezzaners  droop ;  for  Boo  Khalloom  letums  no 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  155 

"  His  body  lies  in  the  land  of  the  heathen  !     The  poi 
Boned  arrow  of  the  unbeliever  prevails  ! 

"  Oh  !  trust  not  to  the  gun  and  the  sword !  The  spear 
of  the  heathen  conquers  !  Boo  Khalloom,  the  good  and 
the  brave,  has  fallen  I     Who  shall  now  be  safe]" 

The  sheik  of  Bornou  was  considerably  mortified  by  the 
result  of  this  expedition,  and  the  miserable  figure  made  by 
his  troops,  though  he  sought  to  throw  the  chief  blame  on 
the  Mandara  part  of  the  armament.  He  now  invited  the 
Major  to  accompany  an  expedition  against  the  Mungas,  a 
rebel  tribe  on  his  outer  border,  on  which  occasion  he  was 
to  employ  his  native  band  of  Kanemboo  spearmen,  who,  he 
trusted,  would  redeem  the  military  reputation  of  the  mo- 
narchy. Major  Denham  was  always  ready  to  go  wherever 
he  had  a  chance  of  seeing  the  manners  and  scenery  of  Af- 
rica. The  sheik  took  the  field,  attended  by  his  armour- 
bearer,  his  drummer  fantastically  dressed  in  a  straw  hat 
with  ostrich  feathers,  and  followed  by  three  wives,  whose 
heads  and  persons  were  wrapped  up  in  brown  silk  robes, 
and  each  led  by  a  eunuch.  He  was  preceded  by  five  green 
and  red  flags,  on  each  of  which  were  extracts  from  the 
Koran,  written  in  letters  of  gold.  Etiquette  even  required 
that  the  sultan  should  follow  with  his  unwieldy  pomp, 
naving  a  harem,  and  attendance  much  more  numerous ; 
while  frumfrums,  or  wooden  trumpets,  were  continually 
sounded  before  him.  This  monarch  is  too  dignified  to  fight 
in  person ;  but  his  guards,  the  swollen  and  overloaded 
figures  formerly  described,  enveloped  in  multiplied  folds, 
and  groaning  beneath  the  weight  of  ponderous  amulets, 
produced  themselves  as  warriors,  though  manifestly  unfit  to 
face  any  real  danger. 

The  route  lay  along  the  banks  of  the  river  Yeou,  called 
also  Gambarou,  through  a  country  naturally  fertile  and 
delightful,  but  presenting  a  dismal  picture  of  the  deso- 
lation occasioned  by  African  warfare.  The  expedition 
passed  through  upwards  of  thirty  towns,  completely  de- 
stroyed by  the  Fellatas  in  their  last  inroad,  and  of  which 
all  the  inhabitants  were  either  killed  or  carried  into  slavery. 
These  fine  plains  were  now  overgrown  with  forests  and 
thickets,  in  which  grew  tamarind  and  other  trees,  producing 
delicate  fruits  ;  while  large  bands  of  monkeys,  called  by 
Arabs  "  enchanted  men,"  filled  the  woods  with  their  cries. 


156  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

Here,  too,  was  found  Old  Bimie,  the  ancient  but  now  deso' 
late  capital,  evidently  much  larger  than  any  of  the  present 
cities,  covering  five  or  six  miles  with  its  ruins.  They  passed 
also  Gambarou,  formerly  the  favourite  residence  of  the 
sultans,  where  the  remains  of  a  palace  and  of  two  mosques 
gave  an  idea  of  civilization  superior  to  any  thing  that  had 
yet  been  seen  in  Interior  Africa.  There  were  left  in  this 
country  only  small  detached  villages,  the  inhabitants  of 
which  remained  fixed  to  them  by  local  attachment,  in  spite 
of  constant  predatory  inroads  by  the  Tuaricks,  who  carried 
oif  their  friends,  their  children,  and  cattle.  They  have 
recourse  to  one  mode  of  defence,  which  consists  in  digging 
a  number  of  blaquas,  or  large  pits  :  these  they  cover  with  a 
false  surface  of  sods  and  grass,  into  which  the  Tuarick, 
with  his  horse,  plunges  before  he  is  aware,  and  is  received 
at  the  bottom  upon  sharp-pointed  stakes,  which  often  kill 
the  one  and  the  other  on  the  spot.  Unluckily,  harmless  tra- 
vellers are  equally  liable  to  fall  into  these  living  graves. 
Major  Denham  was  petrified  with  horror  to  find  how  near 
he  had  approached  to  several  of  them ;  indeed,  one  of  his 
servants  fell  in,  and  was  saved  only  by  an  almost  miracu- 
lous spring.  It  seems  wonderful  that  the  sheik  should  not 
have  endeavoured  to  restore  some  kind  of  security  to  this 
portion  of  his  subjects,  and  to  repeople  those  fine  but  de- 
serted regions. 

The  troops,  which  had  been  seen  hastening  in  parties  to 
the  scene  of  action,  were  mustered  at  Kabshary,  a  town 
which  the  Mungas  had  nearly  destroyed.  The  sheik  made 
a  review  of  his  favourite  forces,  the  Kanemboo  spearmen, 
9000  strong.  They  were  really  a  very  savage  and  military- 
looking  host,  perfectly  naked,  except  a  girdle  of  goatskin, 
with  the  hair  hanging  down,  and  a  piece  of  cloth  wrapped 
round  the  head.  They  carried  large  wooden  shields,  shaped 
like  a  Gothic  window,  with  which  they  warded  off  the  ar- 
rows of  the  enemy,  while  they  pressed  forward  to  attack 
with  their  spears.  Unlike  almost  all  other  barbarous  armies, 
they  kept  a  regular  night-watch,  passing  the  cry  every  half- 
hour  along  the  line,  and  at  any  alarm  raising  a  united  yell, 
which  was  truly  frightful.  At  the  review  they  passed  in 
tribes  before  the  sheik,  to  whom  they  showed  the  most  en- 
thusiastic attachment,  kneeling  on  the  ground  and  kissing 
his  feet.     The  Mungas,  again,  were  described  as  terrible 


Boruou  Horseman,  Kaiiemboo  Spearrnan,  and  Mungo  Bowman.~[p.  157.  J 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  157 

antagonists,  hardened  by  conflict  with  the  Tuaricks,  fighting 
on  foot  with  poisoned  arrows  longer  and  more  deadly  than 
those  of  the  Fellatas.*  The  sultan,  however,  contemplated 
other  means  of  securing  success,  placing  liis  main  reliance 
on  his  powers  as  a  Mohammedan  doctor  and  writer.  Three 
successive  nights  were  spent  in  inscribing  upon  little  scraps 
of  paper  figures  or  words,  destined  to  exercise  a  magical 
influence  upon  the  rebel  host ;  and  their  effect  was  height- 
ened by  the  display  of  sky-rockets,  supplied  by  Major  Den- 
ham.  Tidings  of  his  being  thus  employed  were  conveyed 
to  the  camp,  when  the  Mungas,  stout  and  fierce  warriors 
who  never  shrunk  from  an  enemy,  yielded  to  the  power  of 
superstition,  and  felt  all  their  strength  withered.  It  seemed 
to  them  that  their  arrows  were  blunted,  their  quivers  broken, 
their  hearts  struck  with  sickness  and  fear ;  in  short,  that  to 
oppose  a  sheik  of  the  Koran  who  could  accomplish  such 
wonders  was  alike  vain  and  impious.  They  came  in  by 
hundreds,  bowing  themselves  to  the  ground,  and  casting 
sand  on  their  heads  in  token  of  the  most  abject  submission. 
At  length,  Malem  Fanamy  himself,  the  leader  of  the  rebel- 
lion, saw  that  resistance  was  hopeless.  After  vain  over- 
tures of  conditional  submission,  he  appeared  in  person, 
mounted  on  a  white  horse,  with  a  thousand  followers.  He 
was  himself  in  rags,  and,  having  fallen  prostrate  on  the 
ground,  was  about  to  pour  sand  on  his  head,  when  the  sul- 
^tan,  instead  of  permitting  this  humiliation,  caused  eight 
robes  of  fine  cotton  cloth,  one  after  another,  to  be  thrown 
over  him,  and  his  head  to  be  wrapped  in  Egyptian  turbans 
till  it  was  swelled  to  six  times  its  natural  size,  and  no  longer 
resembled  any  thing  human.  By  such  signal  honours  the 
sheik  gained  the  hearts  of  those  whom  his  pen  had  subdued ; 
and  this  wise  policy  enabled  him,  not  only  to  overcome  the 
resistance  of  this  formidable  tribe,  but  to  convert  them  into 
supporters  and  bulwarks  of  his  power. 

Major  Denham,  who  always  sought  with  laudable  zeal  to 
penetrate  into  every  comer  of  Afirica,  now  found  his  way 
in  another  direction.  He  had  heard  much  of  the  Shary,  a 
great  river  flowing  into  the  lake  Tchad,  and  on  whose  banJcs 
the  kingdom  of  Loggun  was  situated.     After  several  delays, 

*  The  group  in  the  accompanying  plate  shows  the  three  noted  mili- 
tary characters,— the  Bornou  horseman,  the  Kanemboo  spearman,  and 
.he  Munga  bowman. 

O 


158  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

he  set  out  on  the  23d  January,  1824,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Toole,  a  spirited  young  volunteer,  who,  journeying  by  way 
of  Tripoli  and  Mourzouk,  had  thence  crossed  the  Desert  to 
join  him.  The  travellers  passed  through  Angomou  and 
Angala,  and  arrived  at  Showy,  where  they  saw  the  river, 
which  really  proved  to  be  a  magnificent  stream,  fully  half  a 
mile  broad,  and  flowing  at  the  rate  of  two  or  three  miles  an 
hour.  They  descended  it  through  a  succession  of  noble 
reaches,  bordered  with  fine  woods,  and  a  profusion  of  vari- 
ously-tinted and  aromatic  plants.  At  length  it  opened  into 
the  wide  expanse  of  the  Tchad  ;  after  viewing  which,  they 
again  ascended  and  reached  the  capital  of  Loggun,  beneath 
whose  high  walls  the  river  was  seen  flowing  in  majestic 
beauty.  Major  Denham  entered,  and  found  a  handsome 
city,  with  a  street  as  wide  as  Pall- Mall,  and  bordered  by 
large  dwellings,  having  spacious  areas  in  front.  He  was 
led  through  several  dark  rooms  into  a  wide  and  crowded 
court,  at  one  end  of  which  a  lattice  opened,  and  showed  a 
pile  of  silk  robes  stretched  on  a  carpet,  amid  which  two 
eyes  became  gradually  visible  :  this  was  the  sultan.  On 
his  appearance  there  arose  a  tumult  of  honis  and  frum- 
frums  ;  while  all  the  attendants  threw  themselves  prostrate, 
casting  sand  on  their  heads.  In  a  voice  which  the  court- 
fashion  of  Loggun  required  to  be  scarcely  audible,  the  mo- 
narch inquired  Major  Denham's  object  in  coming  to  this 
countr}^  observing  that  if  it  was  to  purchase  handsome  female^ 
slaves,  he  need  go  no  farther,  smce  he  himself  had  hun- 
dreds who  could  be  afibrded  at  a  very  easy  rate.  This 
overture  was  rejected  on  other  grounds  than  the  price  ;  yet, 
notwithstanding  so  decided  a  proof  of  barbarism,  the  Log- 
gunese  were  found  a  people  more  advanced  in  the  arts  of 
pe.vce  than  any  hitherto  seen  in  Africa.  By  a  studied  neu- 
trality, they  had  avoided  involving  themselves  in  the  dread- 
ful wars  which  had  desolated  the  neighbouring  countries. 
Manufacturing  industry  was  honoured,  and  the  cloths 
woven  here  were  superior  to  those  of  Bornou,  being  finely 
died  with  indigo  and  beautifully  glazed.  There  was  even 
a  current  coin  made  of  iron,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a 
horse-shoe  ;  and  rude  as  this  was,  none  of  their  neighbours 
possessed  any  thing  similar.  The  ladies  were  handsome, 
intelligent,  and  of  a  lively  air  and  carriage  ;  but,  besides 
pii/?hing  their  frankness  to  excess,  their  general  demeanour 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON  159 

was  by  no  means  scrupulous.  They  used,  in  particular, 
the  utmost  diligence  in  stealing  from  Major  Denham's  per- 
son every  thing  that  could  be  reached,  even  searchmg  the 
pockets  of  his  trousers  ;  and,  v^'hen  detected,  only  laughing, 
and  calling  to  each  other  how  sharp  he  had  shown  himself. 
But  the  darkest  feature  of  savage  life  was  disclosed,  when 
the  sultan  and  his  son  each  sent  to  solicit  poison  "that 
would  not  lie,"  to  be  used  against  the  other.  The  latter 
even  accompanied  the  request  with  a  bribe  of  three  lovely 
black  damsels,  and  laughed  at  the  horror  which  was  ex- 
pressed at  the  proposal. 

The  Loggunese  live  in  a  rich  country,  abounding  in  grain 
and  cattle,  and  diversified  with  forests  of  lofty  acacias  and 
many  beautiful  shrubs.  Its  chief  scourge  consists  in  the 
millions  of  tormenting  insects  which  fill  the  atmosphere, 
making  it  scarcely  possible  to  go  into  the  open  air  at  mid- 
day without  being  thrown  into  a  fever ;  indeed,  children 
have  been  known  to  be  killed  by  their  stings.  The  natives 
have  a  mode  of  building  one  house  within  another  to  pro- 
tect themselves  against  this  scourge  ;  while  some  kindle  a 
large  fire  of  wet  straw  and  sit  in  the  smoke  :  but  this  re- 
medy, if  it  be  possible,  seems  worse  than  the  evil  which  it  is 
meant  to  obviate. 

Major  Denham  was  much  distressed  on  this  journey  by 
the  death  of  his  companion  Mr.  Toole  ;  and  he  could  no 
longer  delay  his  return  when  he  learned  that  the  Beghar- 
mis,  with  a  large  army,  were  crossing  the  Shary  to  attack 
Bornou.  Soon  after  his  arrival  at  Kouka  the  sheik  led  out 
his  troops,  which  he  mustered  on  the  plain  of  Angala,  and 
was  there  furiously  attacked  by  5000  Begharmis,  led  by  200 
chiefs.  The  Begharmi  cavalry  are  mdividually  strong  and 
fierce,  and  both  riders  and  horses  still  more  thoroughly  cased 
in  mail  than  those  of  Bornou  ;  but  their  courage,  when 
brought  to  the  proof,  is  nearly  on  a  level.  The  sheik  en- 
countered them  with  his  Kanemboo  spearmen  and  a  small 
band  of  musketeers,  when,  after  a  sharp  conflict,  the  whole 
of  this  mighty  host  was  thrown  into  the  most  disorderly 
flight ;  even  the  Bornou  cavalry  jouied  in  the  pursuit. 
Seven  sons  of  the  sultan  and  almost  all  the  chiefs  fell ; 
two  hundred  of  their  favourite  wives  were  taken,  many  of 
whom  were  of  exquisite  beauty. 

Mr.  Tyrwliit,  a  gentleman  whom  his  majesty's  govern- 


160  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

ment  had  sent  out  to  strengthen  the  party,  arrived  on  the 
20th  May,  and  on  the  22d,  delivered  to  the  sheik  a  number 
of  presents,  which  were  received  with  the  highest  satisfac- 
tion. In  company  with  this  gentleman,  Major  Denham, 
eager  to  explore  Africa  still  further,  took  advantage  of  an- 
other expedition  undertaken  against  the  tribe  of  Shouaa 
Arabs,  distinguished  by  the  name  of  La  Sala, — a  race  of 
amphibious  shepherds  who  inhabit  certain  islands  that  ex- 
tend along  the  south-eastern  shores  of  the  Tchad.  These 
spots  afford  rich  pasture ;  while  the  water  is  so  shallow, 
that,  by  knowing  the  channels,  the  natives  can  ride  without 
difficulty  from  one  island  to  the  other.  Barca  Gana  led  a 
thousand  men  on  this  expedition,  and  was  joined  by  400  of 
a  Shouaa  tribe,  called  Dugganahs,  enemies  to  the  La  Salas. 
These  allies  presented  human  nature  under  a  more  pleasing 
aspect  than  it  had  yet  been  seen  in  any  part  of  Central 
Africa.  They  despise  the  negro  nations,  and  all  who  live  in 
houses,  and  still  more  in  cities  ;  while  they  themselves  re- 
side in  tents  made  of  skin,  collected  into  circular  camps, 
which  they  move  periodically  from  place  to  place.  They 
live  in  simple  plenty  on  the  produce  of  their  flocks  and 
herds,  celebrate  their  joys  and  sorrows  in  extemporary 
poetry,  and  seem  to  be  united  by  the  strongest  ties  of  domes- 
tic affection.  Tahr,  their  chief,  having  closely  examined 
our  traveller  as  to  the  motives  of  his  journey,  said,  "  And 
have  you  been  three  years  from  your  home  1  Are  not  your 
eyes  dimmed  with  straining  to  the  north,  where  all  your 
thoughts  must  ever  be  1  If  my  eyes  do  not  see  the  wife 
and  children  of  my  heart  for  ten  days,  they  are  flowing  with 
tear's  when  they  should  be  closed  in  sleep."  On  taking 
leave,  Tahr's  parting  wish  was,  "  May  you  die  at  your  own 
tents,  and  in  the  arms  of  your  wife  and  family."  This  chief, 
it  is  said,  might  have  sat  for  the  picture  of  a  patriarch  :  his 
fine,  serious,  expressive  countenance,  large  features,  and  long 
bushy  beard  afforded  a  favourable  specimen  of  the  general 
aspect  of  his  tribe. 

The  united  forces  now  marched  to  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  and  began  to  reconnoitre  the  islands  on  which  the 
Shouaas  with  their  cattle  and  cavalry  were  stationed  ;  but 
the  experienced  eye  of  Barca  Gana  soon  discerned  that  the 
channel,  though  shallow,  was  full  of  holes,  and  had  a 
iDuddy,  deceitful  appearance.     He  proposed,  thereforcj  to 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  161 

delay  the  attack  till  a  resolute  band  of  Kanemboo  spearmen 
should  arrive  and  lead  the  way.  The  lowing,  however,  of 
the  numerous  herds,  and  the  bleating  of  the  flocks  on  the 
green  islands  which  lay  before  them,  excited  in  the  troops 
a  degree  of  hunger  as  well  as  of  military  ardour  that  was 
quite  irrepressible.  They  called  out,  "  What !  be  so  near 
them  and  not  eat  them  1  No,  no,  let  us  on  ;  this  night  these 
flocks  and  women  shall  be  ours  !"  Barca  Gana  suffered 
himself  to  be  hurried  away,  and  plunged  in  among  the  fore- 
most. Soon,  however,  the  troops  began  to  sink  into  the 
holes  or  stick  in  the  mud  ;  their  guns  and  powder  were 
wetted,  and  became  useless  ;  while  the  enemy,  who  knew 
every  step,  and  could  ride  through  the  water  as  quickly  as 
on  land,  at  once  charged  the  invaders  in  front,  and  sent 
round  a  detachment  to  take  them  in  the  rear.  The  assault 
was  accordingly  soon  changed  into  a  disgraceful  flight,  in 
which  those  who  had  been  the  most  loud  in  urging  to  this 
rash  onset  set  the  example.  Barca  Gana,  who  had  boasted 
himself  invulnerable,  was  deeply  wounded  through  his  coat- 
of-mail  and  four  cotton  tohes,  and  was  with  difficulty  rescued 
by  his  chiefs  out  of  the  hands  of  five  La  Sala  horsemen 
who  had  vowed  his  death.  The  army  returned  to  their 
quarters  in  disappointment  and  dismay,  and  with  a  severe 
loss.  During  the  whole  night  the  Dugganah  women  were 
heard  bewailing  their  husbands  who  had  fallen,  in  dirges 
composed  for  the  occasion,  and  with  plaintive  notes,  which 
could  not  be  listened  to  without  the  deepest  sympathy. 
Major  Denham  was  deterred  by  this  disaster  from  making 
any  farther  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  eastern  shores  of 
the  Tchad. 

The  Biddoomahs  are  another  tribe  who  inhabit  extensive 
and  ragged  islands  in  the  interior  of  the  lake,  amid  its  deep 
waters,  which  they  navigate  with  nearly  a  thousand  large 
boats.  They  neither  cultivate  the  ground  nor  rear  flocks 
or  herds,  while  their  manners  appeared  to  our  traveller  the 
rudest  and  most  savage  even  of  Africans,  those  of  the  Mus- 
gow  always  excepted.  They  are  said  to  have  adopted  as  a 
religious  creed,  that  God,  having  withheld  from  them  com 
and  cattle,  which  the  nations  around  enjoy,  has  given  in 
Aheir  stead  strength  and  courage,  to  be  employed  in  taking 
these  good  things  from  all  in  whose  possession  they  may 
be  found.  To  this  belief  they  act  up  in  the  most  devout 
03 


162  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

manner,  spreading  terror'and  desolation  over  all  the  shore* 
of  this  inland  sea ;  no  part  of  which,  even  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  great  capitals,  is  'for  a  moment  secure 
from  their  ravages.  The  most  powerful  and  'warlike  of  the 
Bornou  sovereigns,  finding  among  their  subjects  neither 
the  requisite  skill  nor  experience  in  navigation,  do  not 
attempt  to  cope  with  the  Biddoomahs  on  their  watery  do- 
mains ;  and  thus  gave  up  the  lake  to  their  undisputed 
sway. 

While  Major  Denham  was  thus  traversing,  in  every  di- 
rection, Bornou  and  the  surrounding  countries,  Mr.  Clap- 
perton  and  Dr.  Oudney  were  proceeding  through  Houssa, 
by  a  route  less  varied  and  hazardous  indeed,  but  disclosing 
forms  both  of  nature  and  of  society  fully  as  interesting. 
They  departed  from  Kouka  on  the  14th  December,  1823, 
and,  after  passing  the  site  of  Old  Bimie,  they  found  the 
banks  of  the  Yeou  fertile,  and  diversified  with  towns  and 
villages.  On  entering  Katagum,  the  most  easterly  Fellata 
province,  they  observed  a  superior  style  of  culture  ;  two 
crops  of  wheat  being  raised  in  one  season  by  irrigation,  and 
the  grain  stored  in  covered  sheds  elevated  from  the  ground 
on  posts.  The  country  to  the  south  was  covered  with  ex- 
tensive swamps  and  mountains,  tenanted  by  rude  and  Pagan 
races,  who  furnish  to  the  faithful  an  inexhaustible  supply 
of  slaves.  The  practice  of  travelling  with  a  caravan  was 
found  very  advantageous,  from  the  mutual  help  afforded,  as 
well  as  from  the  good  reports  spread  by  the  merchants  re- 
specting their  European  companions.  In  Bornou  these  last 
had  been  viewed  with  almost  unmingled  horror ;  and,  for 
having  eaten  their  ^ bread  under  the  extremest  necessity,  a 
man  had  his  testimony  rejected  in  a  court  of  justice.  Some 
young  Bomouese  ladies,  who  accosted  Major  Denham, 
having  ventured  to  say  a  word  in  his  favour,  an  attendant 
matron  exclaimed, — "  Be  silent ;  he  is  an  uncircumcised 
Caffre, — neither  washes  nor  prays,  eats  pork,  and  will  go 
to  hell ;"  upon  which  the  others  screamed  out  and  ran  off. 
But  in  Houssa  this  horror  was  not  so  extreme,  and  was  min 
gled  with  the  belief  that  they  possessed  surprising  and  su- 
pernatural powers.  Not  only  did  the  sick  come  in  crowds 
expecting  the  cure  of  every  disease,  but  the  ladies  solicited 
amulets  to  restore  their  beauty,  to  preserve  the  affections 
of  their  lovers,  and  even  to  destroy  a  hated  rival.    The  sop 


DENHAM  ATTO  CLAPPERTON.  163 

of  the  governor  of  Kano,  having  called  upon  Mr.  Clapperton, 
stated  it  as  the  conviction  of  the  whole  city  and  his  own, 
that  the  English  had  the  power  of  converting  men  into  asses, 
goats,  and  monkeys,  and  likewise  that  hy  reading  in  his 
book  he  could  at  any  time  commute  a  handful  of  earth  into 
gold.  The  traveller,  having  argued  with  him  upon  the  dif- 
ficulty he  often  found  in  procuring  both  asses  and  gold,  in- 
duced him,  with  trembling  hands,  to  taste  a  cup  of  tea ; 
when  he  became  more  composed,  and  made  a  sort  of  recanta- 
tion of  his  errors. 

As  the  caravan  proceeded  they  met  many  other  travel- 
lers, and  found  sitting  along  the  road  numerous  females, 
selling  potatoes,  beans,  bits  of  roasted  meat,  and  water 
with  an  infusion  of  gussub  grains  ;  and  when  they  stopped 
at  any  place  for  the  night,  the  people  crowded  in  such 
numbers  as  to  form  a  little  fair.  Mr.  Clapperton  attracted 
the  notice  of  many  of  the  Fellata  ladies,  who,  after  examin- 
ing him  closely,  declared,  that  had  he  only  been  less  white, 
his  external  appearance  might  have  merited  approbation. 

The  travellers  passed  through  Sansan,  a  great  market- 
place divided  into  three  distinct  towns,  and  Katagum,  the 
strongly-fortified  capital  of  the  province,  containing  about 
6000  inhabitants.  Thence  they  proceeded  to  Murmur, 
where  the  severe  illness  under  which  Dr.  Oudney  had  long 
laboured  came  to  a  crisis.  Though  now  in  the  last  stage 
of  consumption,  he  insisted  on  continuing  his  journey,  and 
with  the  aid  of  his  servant  had  been  supported  to  his  camel, 
when  Mr.  Clapperton,  seeing  the  ghastliness  of  death  on 
his  countenance,  insisted  on  replacing  him  in  his  tent ; 
where  soon  after,  without  a  groan,  he  breathed  his  last. 
His  companion  caused  him  to  be  buried  with  the  honours 
of  the  country.  The  body  was  washed,  wrapped  in  tur- 
ban-shawls, and  a  wall  of  clay  built  round  the  grave  to  pro- 
tect it  from  wild  beasts  ;  two  sheep  also  were  killed  and  dis- 
tributed among  the  poor. 

Proceeding  onwards,  the  traveller  came  to  Katungwa,  the 
first  town  of  Iloussa  Proper,  in  a  country  well  enclosed 
and  under  high  cultivation.  To  the  south  was  an  exten- 
sive range  of  rocky  hills,  amid  which  was  the  town  of 
Zangeia,  with  its  buildings  picturesquely  scattered  over 
masses  of  rock.  He  passed  also  Girkwa,  near  a  river  of 
the  same  name,  which  appears  to  come  from  thesehills, 
and  to  fall  into  the  Yeou. 


164  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTOIf. 

Two  days  after,  he  entered  Kano,  the  Ghana  of  Edfid, 
and  which  is  now,  as  it  was  six  hundred  years  ago,  the 
chief  commercial  city  of  Houssa  and  of  all  Central  Africa. 
Yet  it  disappointed  our  traveller  on  his  first  entry,  and  for 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  scarcely  appeared  a  city  at  all.  Even  in 
its  more  crowded  quarters  the  houses  rose  generally  in 
clusters,  only  separated  by  large  stagnant  pools.  The  in- 
habited part,  on  the  whole,  did  not  appear  to  comprise  more 
than  a  fourth  of  the  space  enclosed  by  the  walls,  while  the 
rest  consisted  of  fields,  gardens,  and  swamps  ;  however,  as 
the  whole  circuit  is  fifteen  miles,  there  is  space  for  a  popu- 
lation moderately  estimated  to  be  between  30,000  and 
40,000.  Its  market,  the  greatest  scene  of  commercial 
transactions  in  Africa,  is  held  on  a  neck  of  land  between 
two  swamps,  by  which,  during  the  rains,  it  is  entirely  over- 
flowed ;  but  in  the  dry  season  it  is  covered  with  sheds,  or 
stalls  of  bamboo,  arranged  into  regular  streets.  Different 
quarters  are  allotted  for  the  several  kinds  of  goods  ;  some 
for  cattle,  others  for  vegetables ;  while  fruits  of  various  de- 
scriptions, so  much  neglected  in  Bornou,  are  here  displayed 
in  profiision.  The  fine  cotton  fabrics  of  the  country  are 
sold  either  in  webs,  or  in  what  are  called  tohcs  and  turka' 
dees,  with  rich  silken  stripes  or  borders  ready  to  be  added. 
Among  the  favourite  articles  are  goora  or  kolla  nuts,  which 
are  called  African  coffee,  being  supposed  to  give  a  peculiar 
relish  to  the  water  drunk  after  them  ;  and  crude  antimony, 
with  whose  black  tint  every  eyebrow  in  Houssa  must  be 
died.  The  Arabs  also  dispose  here  of  sundry  commodities 
that  have  become  obsolete  in  the  north  ;  the  cast-off  dresses 
of  the  Mamelukes  and  other  great  men,  and  old  sword- 
blades  from  Malta.  But  the  busiest  scene  is  the  slave- 
market,  composed  of  two  long  ranges  of  sheds,  one  for 
males  and  another  for  females.  These  poor  creatures  are 
seated  in  rows,  decked  out  for  exhibition  ;  the  buyer  scru- 
tinizes them  as  nicely  as  a  purchaser  with  us  does  a  horse, 
inspecting  the  tongue,  teeth,  eyes,  and  limbs,  making  them 
cough  and  perform  various  movements,  to  ascertain  if  there 
be  any  thing  unsound  ;  and  in  case  of  a  blemish  appearing, 
or  even  without  assigning  a  reason,  he  may  return  them 
within  three  days.  As  soon  as  the  slaves  are  sold,  the  ex- 
poser  gets  back  their  finer\%  to  be  employed  in  ornamenting 
others.  Most  of  the  captives  purchased  at  Kano  are  con- 
veyed across  the  Desert  durinti  which  their  masters  endea- 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  165 

vour  to  keep  up  their  spirits  by  an  assurance  that,  on  pass- 
ing  its  boundary,  they  will  be  set  free  and  dressed  in  red, 
-which  they  account  the  gayest  of  colours.  SuppUes,  how- 
ever, often  fail  in  this  dreary  journey, — a  want  felt  first  by 
the  slaves,  many  of  whom  perish  with  hunger  and  fatigue. 
Mr.  Clapperton  heard  the  doleful  tale  of  a  mother  who  had 
seen  her  child  dashed  to  the  ground,  while  she  herself  was 
compelled  by  the  lash  to  drag  on  an  exhausted  frame.  Yet 
when  at  all  tolerably  treated,  they  are  very  gay, — an  obser- 
vation generally  made  in  regard  to  slaves  ;  but  this  gayety, 
arising  only  from  the  absence  of  thought,  probably  conceals 
much  secret  wretchedness. 

The  regulations  of  the  market  of  Kano  seem  to  be  good, 
and  strictly  observed.  There  is  a  sheik  who  regulates  the 
police,  and  is  said  even  to  fix  the  prices, — which  is  going 
too  far.  The  dylalas,  or  brokers,  are  men  of  somewhat 
high  character  ;  packages  of  goods  are  often  sold  unopened, 
and  bearing  merely  their  mark.  If  the  purchaser  afterward 
finds  any  defect,  he  returns  it  to  the  agent,  who  must  grant 
compensation.  The  medium  of  exchange  is  not  cloth  as  in 
Bomou,  nor  iron  as  in  Loggun,  but  cowries,  or  little  shells 
brought  from  the  coast,  twenty  of  which  are  worth  a  half- 
penny, and  480  make  a  shilling;  so  that,  in  paying  a 
pound  sterling,  one  has  to  count  over  9600  cowries.  Our 
countryman  admires  this  currency,  as  excluding  all  at- 
tempts at  forgery ;  but  really  we  should  think  its  use  very 
tedious  and  inconvenient.  Amid  so  many  strangers  there 
is  ample  room  for  the  trade  of  the  restaurateur,  which  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  female  seated  on  the  ground,  with  a  mat  on  her 
knees,  on  which  are  spread  vegetables,  gussub-water,  and 
bits  of  roasted  meat  about  the  size  of  a  penny ;  these  she 
retails  to  her  customers  squatted  around  her.  The  killing 
of  a  bullock  forms  a  sort  of  festival  at  Kano  ;  its  horns  are 
died  red  with  henna,  drums  are  beat,  and  a  crowd  collected, 
who,  if  they  approve  of  the  appearance  and  condition  of 
the  animal,  readily  become  purchasers. 

Boxing  in  Houssa,  like  wrestling  in  Bomou,  forms  a  fa- 
vourite exercise,  and  the  grand  national  spectacle.  Mr. 
Clapperton,  having  heard  much  of  the  fancy  of  Kano,  inti- 
mated his  willingness  to  pay  for  a  performance,  which  was 
forthwith  arranged.  The  whole  body  of  butchers  attended, 
and  acted  as  masters  of  the  ceremonies ;  while,  as  soon  as 


.  166  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

the  tidings  spread,  girls  left  their  pitchers  at  the  wells,  the 
market  people  threw  dov^n  their  baskets,  and  an  immense 
crowd  was  assembled.  The  ring  being  formed,  and  drum* 
beat,  the  performers  first  came  forward  singly,  plying  their 
muscles  like  a  musician  tuning  his  instrument,  and  each 
calling  out  to  the  bystanders, — "  I  am  a  hyena ;  I  am  a  lion  ; 
I  can  kill  all  that  oppose  me."  After  about  twenty  hai 
shown  off  in  this  manner,  they  came  forward  in  pairs,  weai' 
ing  only  a  leathern  girdle,  and  with  their  hands  muffled  w^ 
in  numerous  folds  of  country  cloth.  It  was  first  ascertained 
that  they  were  not  mutual  friends  ;  after  which,  they  closed 
with  the  utmost  fury,  aiming  their  blows  at  the  most  mortal 
parts,  as  the  pit  of  the  stomach,  beneath  the  ribs,  or  under 
the  ear ;  they  even  endeavoured  to  scoop  out  the  eyes  ;  so 
that,  in  spite  of  every  precaution,  the  match  often  termi- 
nated in  the  death  of  one  of  the  combatants.  Whenever 
Mr.  Clapperton  saw  the  aflfair  verging  to  such  an  issue,  he 
gave  orders  to  stop  ;  and,  after  seeing  six  pairs  exhibit, 
paid  the  hire  and  broke  up  the  meeting. 

From  Kano  he  set  out  under  the  guidance  of  Mohammed 
Jollie,  leader  of  an  extensive  caravan  intended  for  Sackatoo, 
capital  of  the  sultan  of  the  Fellatas.  The  country  was 
perhaps  the  finest  in  Africa,  being  under  high  cultivation, 
diversified  with  groves  of  noble  trees,  and  traversed  in  a  pic- 
turesque manner  by  ridges  of  granite.  The  manners  of 
the  people,  too,  were  pleasing  and  pastoral.  At  many  clear 
springs  gushing  from  the  rocks  young  women  were  drawing 
water.  As  an  excuse  for  engaging  in  talk,  our  traveller 
asked  several  times  for  the  means  of  quenching  his  thirst. 
"  Bending  gracefully  on  one  knee,  and  displaying  at  the 
same  time  teeth  of  pearly  whiteness,  and  eyes  of  the  blackest 
lustre,  they  presented  a  gourd,  and  appeared  highly  de- 
lig'ited  when  I  thanked  them  for  their  civility,  remarking  to 
one  another,  '  Did  you  hear  the  white  man  thank  me  V  " 
But  the  scene  was  changed  when  the  traveller  reached  the 
borders  of  the  provinces  of  Goober  and  Zamfra,  which 
were  in  a  state  of  rebellion  against  Sackatoo.  The  utmost 
alarm  at  that  moment  prevailed;  men  and  women,  with 
their  bullocks,  asses,  and  camels,  all  struggled  to  be  fore- 
most, every  one  crying  out,  "  Wo  to  the  wretch  that  fallei 
behind !  he  will  be  sure  to  meet  an  unhappy  end  at  tht; 
hands  of  the  Gooberites."   There  was  danger  even  of  being 


JOENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  167 

thrown  down  and  trampled  to  death  by  the  bullocks,  which 
were  furiously  rushing  backward  and  forward  ;  however, 
through  the  unremitting  care  of  the  escort,  Clapperton 
made  his  way  safely,  though  not  without  much  fatigue  and 
annoyance,  along  this  perilous  frontier. 

On  the  16th  March,  1824,  after  passing  through  the  hilly 
district  of  Kamoon,  the  valleys  began  to  open,  and  crowds 
of  people  were  seen  thronging  to  market  with  wood,  onions, 
indigo,  and  other  commodities.  This  indicated  the  ap- 
proach to  Sackatoo,  which  they  soon  saw  from  the  top  of  a 
hill,  and  entered  about  noon.  A  multitude  flocked  to  see 
the  white  stranger,  and  received  him  with  cheers  of  wel- 
come. The  sultan  was  not  yet  returned  from  a  ghrazzie  or 
slave-hunt ;  but  the  gadado,  or  minister,  performed  hand- 
somely the  honours  of  the  place.  Next  day  the  chief 
arrived,  and  instantly  sent  for  Clapperton.  The  palace,  as 
usual  in  Africa,  consisted  of  a  sort  of  enclosed  town,  with 
an  open  quadrangle  in  front.  The  stranger,  on  entering 
the  gate,  was  conducted  through  three  huts  serving  as 
guard-houses,  after  which  he  found  Sultan  Bello  seated  on 
a  small  carpet  in  a  sort  of  painted  and  ornamented  cottage 
Bello  had  a  noble  and  commanding  figure,  with  a  high  forehead 
and  large  black  eyes.  He  gave  the  traveller  a  hearty  wel- 
come, and,  after  inquiring  the  particulars  of  his  journey, 
proceeded  to  serious  affairs.  He  produced  books  belonging 
to  Major  Denham,  which  had  been  taken  in  the  disastrous 
battle  of  Dirkullah  ;  and,  though  he  expressed  a  feeling  of 
dissatisfaction  at  the  Major's  presence  on  that  occasion, 
readily  accepted  an  apology,  and  re:>tored  the  volumes.  He 
only  asked  to  have  the  subject  of  each  explained,  and  to 
hear  the  sound  of  the  language,  which  he  declared  to  be 
beautiful.  He  then  began  to  press  his  visiter  with  theolo- 
gical questions,  and  showed  himself  not  wholly  unacquainted 
with  the  controversies  which  have  agitated  the  Christian 
world  ;  indeed  he  soon  went  beyond  the  depth  of  his  visiter, 
who  was  obliged  to  own  that  he  was  not  versant  in  the 
abstruser  mysteries  of  divinity. 

The  sultan  now  opened  a  frequent  and  familiar  commu- 
nication with  the  English  envoy,  in  which  he  showed  him- 
self possessed  of  a  good  deal  of  information.  The  astrono- 
mical instruments,  from  which,  as  from  implements  of  magic. 


168  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

many  of  his  attendants  started  with  horror,  were  examined 
by  the  monarch  with  an  intelligent  eye.  On  being  shown 
the  planisphere,  he  proved  his  knowledge  of  the  planets, 
and  even  of  many  of  the  constellations,  by  repeating  their  Ara- 
bic names.  The  telescope,  which  presented  objects  inverted 
— the  compass,  by  which  he  could  always  turn  to  the  east 
in  praying — and  the  sextant,  which  he  called  "  the  loolung- 
glass  of  the  sun,"  excited  peculiar  interest.  Being  desirous 
to  see  an  observation  performed  with  the  latter  instru- 
ment, Clapperton,  who  had  lost  the  key  of  the  artificial 
horizon,  asked  a  dagger  to  break  it  open ;  upon  w'hich  the 
Fultan  started,  and  half-drew  his  sword,  trembling  like  an 
aspen  leaf.  The  other  very  prudently  took  no  notice  of  this 
excitement,  but  quietly  opened  his  box,  when  the  exhibi- 
tion soon  dispelled  all  unfavourable  impressions.  The  sul- 
tan, however,  inquired  with  evident  jealousy  into  some 
points  of  English  history  that  had  come  to  his  knowledge  ; 
as,  the  conquest  of  India,  which  the  traveller  endeavoured 
to  represent  as  a  mere  arrangement  to  protect  the  natives, 
and  particularly  the  Moslem  population.  The  attack  on 
Algiers,  being  also  alluded  to,  was  justly  declared  to  have 
been  made  solely  on  account  of  her  atrocious  piracies. 

Sackatoo  appeared  to  Mr.  Clapperton  the  most  populous 
city  he  had  seen  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  The  houses  stand 
more  closely  together  than  in  most  other  towns  of  Houssa, 
and  are  laid  out  in  regularly  well-built  streets.  It  is  sur- 
lounded  by  a  wall  between  twenty  and  thirty  feet  high, 
with  twelve  gates,  which  are  punctually  shut  at  sunset. 
The  dwellings  of  the  principal  inhabitants  consist  of  clusters 
of  cottages  and  flat-roofed  houses,  in  the  Moorish  style,  en- 
closed by  high  walls.  There  are  two  mosques,  one  of  which, 
then  in  progress  of  building,  was  800  feet  long,  adorned 
with  numerous  pillars  of  wood  plastered  with  clay,  and 
highly  ornamented. 

Mr.  Clapperton,  desirous  to  accomplish  what  had  all 
along  been  his  main  object,  solicited  a  guide  to  the  western 
countries  and  the  Gulf  of  Benin.  By  this  route  he  might 
investigate  the  course  of  the  Niger  and  the  fate  of  Park  ;  he 
might  also  pave  the  way  for  a  commercial  intercourse,  which 
would  be  of  some  benefit  to  Britain,  and  of  great  advantage 
to  Africa.  The  sultan  at  first  gave  assurances  of  permis- 
sic'^  and  aid  in  travelling  through  every  part  of  his  domi- 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON.  1 69 

nions;  but  when  our  countryman  specified  NyfTe  on  the 
banks  of  the  Niger,  Youri  where  the  papers  of  Park  were 
reported  to  be  kept,  Rakah  and  Fundah,  where  that  river 
was  said  to  fall  into  the  sea,  the  courtiers  began  to  demur. 
Professing  tender  solicitude  for  his  safety,  they  represented 
that  the  season  was  becoming  unfavourable,  and  that  rebel- 
lion and  civil  war  were  raging  to  such  a  pitch  in  these 
countries  as  to  make  even  the  mighty  protection  of  Sultan 
Bello  insufficient  for  his  security.  Clapperton  strongly  sus- 
pected that  this  unfavourable  change  was  produced  by  the 
machinations  of  the  Arabs,  and  particularly  of  Mohammed 
Gomsoo,  their  chief,  notwithstanding  the  warm  professions 
of  friendship  made  that  personage.  They  apprehended, 
probably,  that  were  a  communication  opened  with  the 
western  coast.  Interior  Africa  might  be  supplied  with  Eu- 
ropean goods  by  that  shorter  route,  instead  of  being  brought 
by  themselves  across  the  Desert.  Perhaps  these  suspicions 
were  groundless  ;  for  the  state  of  the  country  was  afterward 
found  to  be,  if  possible,  worse  than  had  been  described,  and 
the  ravages  of  the  Fellatas  so  terrible,  that  any  one  coming 
from  among  them  was  likely  to  experience  a  very  disagree- 
able reception.  Indeed,  it  may  be  suspected  that  the  sultan 
must  have  been  a  good  deal  embarrassed  by  the  simplicity 
with  which  his  guest  listened  to  his  pompous  boasting  as  to 
the  extent  of  his  empire,  and  by  the  earnestness  with  which 
he  entreated  him  to  name  one  of  his  seaports  where  the 
English  might  land,  when  it  is  certain  that  he  had  not  a  town 
which  was  not  some  hundred  miles  distant  from  the  coast. 
To  prevent  the  disclosure  of  this  fact,  which  muo*^  have 
taken  place  had  our  traveller  proceeded  in  that  direction, 
might  be  an  additional  motive  for  refusing  his  sanction. 
In  short,  it  was  finally  announced  to  Clapperton,  that  no 
escort  could  be  found  to  accompany  him  on  so  rash  an  en- 
terprise, and  that  he  could  return  to  England  only  by  retrac- 
ing his  steps. 

Here  the  traveller  obtained  an  account  of  Mr.  Park's 
death,  very  closely  corresponding  with  the  statement  given 
by  Amadi  Fatouma.  The  Niger,  it  appears,  called  here  the 
Quorra,  after  passing  Timbuctoo,  turns  to  the  south,  and 
continues  to  flow  in  that  direction  till  it  crosses  the  parallel 
of  Sackatoo,  at  only  a  few  days'  journey  to  the  westward  ; 
but  whether  it  reaches  the  sea,  or,  making  an  immense  cir- 
P 


170  CLAPPERTON  S  SECOND  JOURNEY. 

cuit,  becomes  the  Shary,'and  pours  itself  into  the  immense 
basin  of  the  Tchad,  are  points  on  which  his  informants  va- 
ried greatly. 

Returning  by  a  different  route,  Mr.  Clapperton  visited 
Zirmie,  the  capital  of  Zamfra,  a  kind  of  outIav?ed  city,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  are  esteemed  the  greatest  rogues  in 
Houssa,  and  where  all  runaway  slaves  find  protection.  He 
passed  also  through  Kashna  or  Cassina,  the  metropolis  of  a 
kingdom  which,  till  the  late  rise  of  the  Fellata  power,  had 
ruled  over  all  Africa  from  Bornou  to  the  Niger.  In  its 
present  subject  and  fallen  state,  the  inhabited  part  does  not 
cover  a  tenth  of  the  wide  circuit  enclosed  by  its  walls  ;  yet 
a  considerable  trade  is  still  carried  on  with  theTuaricks,  or 
with  caravans  coming  across  the  Desert  by  the  route  of 
Ghadamis  and  Tuat.  Here  our  traveller  met  with  much 
kindness  from  Hadgi  Ahmet,  a  powerful  and  wealthy  Arab 
chief,  who  even  took  him  into  his  seraglio,  and  desired  him, 
out  of  fifty  black  damsels,  to  make  his  choice, — a  complai- 
sance, nothing  resembling  which  had  ever  before  been  shown 
by  a  Mussulman.  But  our  countryman,  being  indisposed* 
only  picked  out  an  ancient  maiden  to  serve  as  a  nurse. 

Mr.  Clapperton  rejoined  Major  Denham  at  Kouka, 
whence  they  set  out,  and  recrossed  the  Desert  together  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  year  1824.  They  reached  Tripoli  in 
January,  1825,  and  soon  after  embarked  for  Leghorn ;  but 
being  detained  by  contrary  winds  and  quarantine  regula 
tions,  did  not  reach  London  till  the  month  of  June. 


CHAPTER  XHL 

Clapperton' s  Second  Journey — Laing — Ccdllie. 

It  has  appeared,  that  in  spite  of  some  occasional  sjmnp- 
toms  of  jealousy,  and  even  of  alarm,  the  sultan  of  the  Fel- 
latas  had  manifested  a  very  considerable  inclination  to  cul- 
tivate intercourse  with  the  English.  He  was  even  under- 
stood to  have  promised  that  messengers  should  be  kept  in 
waiting  at  Rakah  and  Fundahj  or  at  some  port  on  the  coast, 


CLAPPERTON'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.      171 

to  conduct  anew  mission  to  Sackatoo.  These  promises,  it 
is  extremely  probable,  were  mere  inferences  drawn  from  the 
empty  boasts  of  the  sultan  ;  he  being  master  neither  of  Ra- 
kah  nor  Fundah,  nor  of  any  place  within  a  great  distance 
of  the  Gulf  of  Benin.  Be  this  as  it  may,  there  seemed 
good  ground  to  expect  a  welcome  for  the  British  envoys 
when  they  should  reach  his  capital ;  and  in  that  direction, 
it  was  conjectured,  were  to  be  found  the  termination  of  the 
Niger,  and  also  the  most  direct  channel  of  trade  with  re- 
gions already  ascertained  to  be  the  finest  in  Africa. 

These  were  \'iews  to  which  the  enterprising  statesmen 
who  conducted  the  naval  government  at  home  were  never 
insensible.  They  equipped  afresh  Mr.  Clapperton,  now 
promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain,  and  sent  him  to  the  Gulf 
of  Benin  ;  naming  as  his  associates,  Captain  Pearce,  an  ex* 
cellent  draftsman,  and  Mr.  Morrison,  a  naval  surgeon  of 
some  experience,  whose  skill,  it  was  hoped,  might  be  of 
great  avail  in  preserving  the  health  of  the  whole  expedition. 

The  mission,  in  the  end  of  1825,  reached  its  destination  ; 
but,  as  might  perhaps  have  been  anticipated,  they  coul4 
hear  nothing  of  Rakah  or  of  Fundah,  of  any  messengers 
sent  by  Bello,  nor  of  any  town  that  was  subject  to  him  on 
this  coast.  They  were  not,  however,  discouraged ;  and 
having  consulted  Mr.  Houtson,  whom  a  long  residence  had 
made  thoroughly  acquamted  with  the  country,  they  were 
advised  not  to  attempt  ascending  the  banks  of  the  river, — a 
circuitous  track,  and  covered  with  pestilential  swamps, — but 
to  take  the  route  from  Badagry  as  the  most  direct  and  com- 
modious, and  by  which,  in  fact,  almost  all  the  caravans  from 
Houssa  come  down  to  the  coast. 

On  the  7th  December,  1825,  the  mission  set  out  from 
Badagry  on  this  grand  journey  into  Interior  Africa.  But  at 
the  very  first  they  were  guilty  of  a  fatal  imprudence.  During 
the  nights  of  the  7th  and  9th  they  slept  in  the  open  air,  and 
on  the  last  occasion  in  the  public  market-place  of  Dagmoo, 
without  even  their  beds,  which  had  been  sent  away  by  mis- 
take. The  consequence  was,  that  in  a  day  or  two  Morrison 
and  Pearce  were  attacked  with  a  dangerous  fever,  and  Clap- 
perton with  fits  of  ague.  It  does  not  appear  why  they  did 
not  stop  in  one  of  the  towns,  and  endeavour  by  rest  to  re- 
cruit their  strength ;  on  the  contrary,  they  pushed  on  till 
the  22d,  when  Captain  Clapperton,  seeing  the  illness  of  hia 


172         clapperton's  second  journey. 

companions  increase,  urged  them  either  to  remain  behind 
or  return  to  Badagry.  They  insisted  on  proceeding ;  but 
next  day  Dr.  Morrison  could  struggle  no  longer,  and  de- 
parted for  the  coast :  he  died  before  reaching  it.  Captain 
Pearce  persevered  to  the  last,  and  sunk  on  the  road,  breath- 
ing his  last  at  nine  in  the  evening  of  the  27th.  Clapperton 
was  thus  left  to  pursue  his  long  and  adventurous  journey  in 
very  painful  and  desolate  circumstances.  He  had  only  a 
faithful  servant,  Richard  Lander,  who  stood  by  him  in  all 
his  fortunes,  with  Pascoe,  a  not  very  trusty  Afidcan,  whom 
he  had  hired  at  Badagry. 

After  a  journey  of  sixty  miles,  the  travellers  entered  the 
kingdom  of  Yarriba,  called  also  from  its  capital  Eyeo.  This 
country  had  long  been  reported  on  the  coast  as  the  most 
populous,  powerful,  and  flourishing  of  all  Western  Africa, 
holding  even  Dahomey  in  vassalage.  It  answered  the  most 
favourable  descriptions  given  of  it ;  the  fields  were  exten- 
sively cleared,  and  covered  with  thriving  plantations  of  In- 
dian corn,  millet,  yams,  and  cotton.  A  loom  nearly  similar 
to  that  used  in  England  was  busily  plied  ;  the  women  were 
spinning  and  dyeing  the  cloths  with  their  fine  indigo.  These 
African  dames  were  also  seen  going  from  town  to  town 
bearing  large  burdens  on  their  heads, — an  employment 
shared  by  the  numerous  wives  of  the  king  of  Eyeo ;  their 
majesties  having  nothing  to  f'istinguish  them  from  the  hum- 
blest of  their  fellow-countrywomen.  Amid  these  laudable 
occupations,  they  exercised  their  powers  of  speech  with 
such  incessant  perseverance  as  to  confirm  the  Captain  in 
what  appears  to  have  been  with  him  an  old  maxim,  that  no 
power  on  earth,  not  even  African  despotism,  can  silence  a 
woman's  tongue  ;  yet,  as  this  loquacity  seems  to  have  been 
always  exerted  in  kindness,  he  need  not,  we  think,  have 
groaned  quite  so  heavily  imder  its  stunning  influence. 

The  English  travellers  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the 
reception  which  they  experienced  during  this  journey.  In 
Houssa  they  had  laboured  under  the  most  dire  proscription 
as  Caffres,  enemies  of  the  prophet,  and  foredoomed  to  hell ; 
and,  as  black  is  there  the  standard  of  beauty,  their  colour 
was  considered  by  the  ladies  a  deep  leprous  deformity,  de- 
tracting from  every  quality  that  might  otherwise  have  been 
agreeable  in  their  persons.  With  the  negro  and  pagan 
Eyeos  there  was  no  religious  ermiity ;  and  having  under- 


CLAPPERTONS  SECOND  JOURNEY'.  173 

stood,  by  reports  from  the  coast,  the  superiority  of  Euro- 
peans in  arts  and  wealth,  this  people  viewed  them  almost  as 
beings  of  a  superior  order,  to  see  whom  they  felt  an  eager 
and  friendly  curiosity.  A  rumour  had  also  spread  that  they 
came  to  do  good,  and  to  make  peace  wherever  there  was 
war.  On  entering  any  town  they  were  soon  encircled  by 
thousands,  all  desirous  to  see  white  men,  and  testifying  re- 
spect,— the  males  by  taking  oft'  their  caps,  the  women  by 
bending  on  their  knees  and  one  elbow.  In  some  places 
singing  and  dancing  were  kept  up  through  the  whole  night 
in  celebration  of  their  arrival. 

The  mission  had  now  to  cross  a  range  of  hills  about  eighty 
miles  broad,  reported  to  reach  the  whole  way  from  behind 
Ashantee  to  Benin.  The  highest  pinnacle  was  not  supposed 
to  exceed  2500  feet,  which  is  a  good  deal  lower  than  Skid- 
daw  ;  but  its  passes  were  peculiarly  narrow  and  rugged, 
hemmed  in  by  gigantic  blocks  of  granite  600  or  700  feet 
high,  sometimes  fearfully  overhanging  the  road.  The  valley 
varied  in  breadth  from  100  yards  to  half  a  mile  ;  but  every 
level  spot,  extending  along  the  foot  of  these  mountains,  or 
even  suspended  amid  their  cliffs,  was  covered  with  fine  crops 
of  yams,  millet,  and  cotton.  A  large  population  thus  filled 
these  alpine  recesses,  all  animated  with  the  most  friendly 
spirit.  Parties  met  the  travellers  on  the  road,  or  were  sta- 
tioned on  the  rocks  and  heights  above,  which  echoed  with 
choral  songs  and  sounds  of  welcome.  After  ascending  hill 
over  hill  they  came  to  Chaki,  a  large  and  populous  town, 
situated  on  the  very  summit  of  the  ridge.  Here  the  cabo- 
ceer  had  a  house  and  a  large  stock  of  provisions  ready  for 
them  :  he  put  many  questions,  and  earnestly  pleaded  for  a 
stay  of  two  or  three  days. 

After  descending  to  the  plain,  and  passing  through  a  num- 
ber of  other  towns,  the  party  came  to  Tshow,  where  a  ca 
boceer  arrived  from  the  king  of  Yarriba,  with  a  numerous 
train  of  attendants  both  on  foot  and  horseback.  This  chief, 
having  shaken  hands  with  them,  immediately  rubbed  his 
whole  body,  that  the  blessing  of  their  touch  might  be  spread 
all  over  him.  His  people  kept  up  through  the  night  a  con- 
stant hubbub, — singing,  drumming,  dancing,  and  firing ; 
and,  claiming  free  quarters,  they  devoured  such  a  quantity 
of  provisions  that  the  party  fared  worse  than  in  any  other 
place.  Next  morning  they  set  out  with  a  crowded  escort 
P2 


174    clapperton's  second  journey. 

of  bowmen  on  foot,  and  of  horsemen  ill  mounted  but  active, 
dressed  in  the  most  grotesque  manner,  and  covered  with 
charms.  On  reaching  the  brow  of  a  hill,  the  great  capital 
of  Eyeo  opened  to  the  view,  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  vast 
plain  bordered  by  a  ridge  of  granite  hills,  and  surrounded 
by  a  brilliant  belt  of  verdure.  On  reaching  the  gate  they 
entered  the  house  of  a  caboceer,  till  notice  was  sent  to  the 
king,  who  immediately  invited  them  to  his  palace.  They 
had  five  miles  to  march  through  this  spacious  capital,  du- 
ring which  the  multitude  collected  was  so  immense,  and 
raised  such  a  cloud  of  dust,  that  they  must  have  stopped 
short,  hatl  not  their  escort,  by  a  gentle  but  steady  application 
of  the  whip  and  the  cane,  opened  a  way,  and  finally  cleared 
a  space  in  front  of  the  throne.  The  king  was  sitting  under 
a  veranda,  dressed  in  two  long  cotton  tobes,  and  ornamented 
with  three  strings  of  glass  beads,  and  a  pasteboard  crown 
covered  with  blue  cotton,  which  had  been  procured  from  the 
coast.  The  mission,  instead  of  the  usual  prostration,  merely 
took  off  their  hats,  bowed,  and  presented  their  hands,  which 
the  king  lifted  up  three  times,  calling  out  "  Ako  !  ako  !" 
(How  do  you  do  ?)  His  wives  behind,  drawn  up  in  a  dense 
body,  which  the  travellers  vainly  attempted  to  number, 
raised  loud  cheers,  and  smiled  in  the  most  gracious  man- 
ner. After  an  interview  of  half  an  hour,  the  chief  eunuch 
showed  the  party  to  handsome  and  commodious  lodgings, 
where  a  good  dinner  was  prepared.  In  the  evening  they 
were  surprised  by  a  visit  from  his  majesty  in  plain  patri- 
archal style,  with  a  long  staff  in  his  hand,  saying  that  he 
could  not  sleep  without  again  inquiring  after  them. 

Eyeo,  or  Katunga,  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Yarriba,  is 
fifteen  miles  in  circumference,  and  supplied  by  seven  large 
markets  ;  but  there  are  many  open  fields  and  spaces  in  this 
wide  circuit,  and  hence  the  number  of  inhabitants  oould  not 
even  be  conjectured.  The  population  of  the  country  must 
be  very  great,  the  whole  being  under  cultivation,  and  the 
towns  large  and  numerous.  The  government,  in  theory,  is 
most  despotic.  The  greatest  chiefs,  when  they  approach 
the  sovereign,  throw  themselves  prostrate  on  the  ground, 
lie  flat  on  their  faces,  and  heap  sand  or  dust  upon  their 
heads  ;  and  the  same  degrading  homage  is  paid  to  the 
nobles  by  their  inferiors.  Yet  the  administration  seems 
mild  and  paternal ;  no  instances  of  wanton  cruelty  were 


clapperton's  second  journey.    175 

observed  ;  and  the  flourishing  state  of  the  people  showed 
clearly  the  absence  of  all  severe  oppression.  The  horrid 
and  bloody  customs,  which  produce  such  dark  scenes  in 
Ashantee  and  Dahomey,  were  mentioned  here  with  detesta- 
tion. At  the  death  of  the  king  only,  a  few  of  his  principal 
ministers  and  favourite  wives  take  poison,  presented  to  them 
in  parrots'  eggs,  that  they  may  accompany  and  serve  him 
in  the  invisible  world.  The  first  question  asked  by  every 
caboceer  and  great  man  was,  How  many  wives  the  king  of 
England  had  ]  being  prepared,  it  should  seem,  to  measure 
his  greatness  by  that  standard ;  but  when  told  that  he  had 
only  one,  they  gave  themselves  up  to  a  long  and  ungovernable 
fit  of  laughter,  followed  by  expressions  of  pity  and  wonder 
how  he  could  possibly  exist  in  that  destitute  condition. 
The  king  of  Yarriba's  boast  was,  that  his  wives,  linked  hand 
in  hand,  would  reach  entirely  across  the  kingdom.  Queens, 
however,  in  Africa  are  applied  to  various  uses,  of  which  Eu- 
ropeans have  little  idea.  They  were  seen  forming  a  large 
band  of  body-guards  ;  and  their  majesties  were  observed  in 
every  part  of  the  kingdom  acting  as  porters,  and  bearing  on 
their  heads  enormous  burdens  ;  so  that  whether  they  should 
be  called  queens  or  slaves  seems  scarcely  doubtful. 

The  Eyeos,  like  other  nations  purely  negro,  are  wholly 
unacquainted  with  letters  or  any  form  of  writing ;  these 
are  known  only  to  the  Arabs  or  Fellatas,  who  penetrate 
thither  in  small  numbers  ;  yet  they  have  a  great  deal  of  ex- 
temporary poetry.  Every  great  man  has  bands  of  singers 
of  both  sexes,  who  constantly  attend  him,  and  loudly  cele- 
brate his  achievements  in  poems  of  their  own  composition. 
The  convivial  meetings  of  the  people,  even  their  labours  and 
journeys,  are  cheered  by  songs  composed  for  the  occasion, 
and  sung  often  with  considerable  taste.  Their  houses  are 
mere  clay-built  cottages,  yet  studiously  adorned  with  carv* 
ing  ;  the  door-posts  and  every  piece  of  furniture  are  co- 
vered with  well-executed  representations  of  warlike  proces- 
sions, and  of  the  movements  of  huge  serpents  seizing  their 
prey.  They  have  also  public  performances,  which  do  not 
indeed  deserve  the  name  of  dramatic,  as  they  consist  of  mere 
mimicry  and  buffoonery.  The  first  act  of  a  piece  witnessed 
by  the  strangers  exhibited  men  dancing  in  sacks,  who  per 
formed  their  part  to  admiration.  One  of  the  bags  opened, 
and  there  came  forth  the  boa  constrictor,  fourteen  feet  long 


1/6         clapperton's  second  journey. 

covered  with  cotton  cloth,  imitating  the  colour  and  stripea 
of  the  original.  Though  rather  full  in  the  body,  it  prer 
sented  very  nearly  the  form,  and  imitated  well  the  actions, 
of  that  huge  animal.  The  mouth  was  opened  wide,  pro- 
bably by  two  hands,  to  devour  a  warrior  armed  with  a  sword, 
who  had  come  forth  to  contend  with  this  formidable  crea- 
ture, and  who  struck  it  with  repeated  blows,  till  it  writhed 
in  agony,  and  finally  expired.  Lastly,  out  of  another  sack 
came  the  white  devil,  a  meager,  shivering  figure,  and  so 
painted  as  to  represent  an  European.  It  took  snuff,  rubbed 
its  hands,  and  attempted,  in  the  most  awkward  manner,  to 
walk  on  its  naked  feet.  The  audience,  amid  shouts  of  laugh- 
ter, called  the  particular  attention  of  the  Captain  to  this  per- 
formance ;  which  being  really  good,  he  deemed  it  advisable 
to  join  in  the  mirth. 

As  soon  as  our  traveller  was  fixed  at  Eyeo,  he  began  to 
negotiate  in  regard  to  the  means  of  advancing  into  Houssa, 
anxious  to  pass  through  that  country  and  reach  Bomou  be- 
fore the  rains  should  set  in.  The  king  had  professed  a  de- 
termination to  serve  him  in  every  shape  ;  but  this  proved  to 
be  the  very  thing  in  which  he  was  least  inclined  to  fulfil  his 
promise.  All  African  princes  seek  to  make  a  monopoly  of 
the  strangers  who  enter  their  teiTitory.  It  was  hinted,  that 
one  journey  was  well  and  fully  employed  in  seeing  the  king- 
dom of  Yarriba  and  visiting  its  great  monarch.  Captain 
Clapperton,  having  pleaded  the  positive  command  of  his 
sovereign,  was  then  informed  that  the  direct  route  through 
Nyffe  was  much  disturbed  by  civil  war,  the  inroad  of  the 
Fellatas,  and  the  insurrection  of  a  great  body  of  Houssa 
slaves, — ^reports  suspected  at  the  time  to  have  been  got  up 
merely  to  detain  the  travellers,  but  afterward  found  to 
be  correct.  The  king  absolutely  refused  permission  to  pro- 
ceed to  Rakali,  though  situated  on  the  Niger  at  the  distance 
of  only  three  days'  journey ;  but  he  undertook  to  convey 
them  to  Houssa  by  a  safer  though  somewhat  circuitous 
route,  through  the  kingdom  of  Borgoo. 

After  passing  through  a  number  of  smaller  places,  the 
mission  arrived  at  Kiaina,  capital  of  a  district  of  the  same 
name,  and  containing  30,000  inhabitants.  Kiama,  Wawa, 
Niki,  and  Boussa  are  provinces  composing  the  kingdom  of 
Borgoo,  all  subject  in  a  certain  sense  to  the  sovereign  of 
Boussa ;  but  the  diiferent  cities  plunder  and  make  war  on 


clapperton's  second  journey.    177 

each  other,  without  the  sHa^htest  regard  to  the  supretoe  au- 
thority. The  people  of  Kiama  and  of  Borgoo  in  general 
have  the  reputation  of  being  the  greatest  thieves  and  rob- 
bers in  all  Africa, — a  character  which  nothing  in  their  actual 
conduct  appeared  to  confirm.  Clappcrton  was  well  received 
at  Kiama  ;  and  the  king  soon  visited  hun  with  the  most  sin- 
gular train  ever  seen  by  an  European.  Six  young  girls, 
without  any  apparel  except  a  fillet  on  the  forehead,  and  a 
string  of  beads  round  the  waist,  carrying  each  three  light 
spears,  ran  by  the  side  of  his  horse,  keeping  pace  with  it  at 
full  gallop.  "  Their  light  form,  the  vivacity  of  their  eyes, 
and  the  ease  with  which  they  appeared  to  fly  over  the  ground, 
made  them  appear  something  more  than  mortal."  On  the 
king's  entrance  the  young  ladies  laid  down  their  spears, 
wrapped  themselves  in  blue  mantles,  and  attended  on  his 
majesty.  On  his  taking  leave,  they  discarded  their  attire  ; 
he  mounted  his  horse,  "  and  away  went  the  most  extraordi- 
nary cavalcade  I  ever  saw  in  my  life."  Our  traveller  was 
visited  by  the  principal  queen,  who  had  lost  her  youth  and 
charms  ;  but  a  good  deal  of  flirtation  passed  between  him 
and  the  eldest  daughter,  who,  however,  being  twenty-five, 
was  considered  in  Africa  as  already  on  the  wane.  Yarro, 
the  king,  was  extremely  acccm^'>dating,  and  no  difficulty 
was  found  in  proceeding  onward  to  \\  aw  a. 

Wawa  is  a  large  city,  containing  18,000  inhabitants,  en- 
riched by  the  constant  passage  of  the  Houssa  caravans. 
The  people  spend  the  wealth  thus  acquired  in  dissolute 
pleasure,  and  have  been  denounced  by  our  traveller  the  most 
complete  set  of  roaring  topers  he  had  ever  knowm.  The  fes- 
tivities were  usually  prolonged  till  near  morning,  and  thetowTi 
resounded  through  the  whole  night  with  the  song,  the 
dance,  the  castanet,  and  the  Arab  guitar.  The  Wawa  ladies 
paid  a  very  particular  and  rather  troublesome  attention  to 
the  English  party.  The  Captain  complains  of  being  pes- 
tered by  the  governor's  daughter,  who  came  several  times 
a-day,  always  half-tipsy,  painted  and  bedizened  in  the  high- 
est style  of  African  finery,  to  make  love  to  him  ;  and  on  meet- 
ing only  with  cold  excuses,  she  departed  usually  in  a  flood 
of  tears.  But  the  most  persevering  suit  was  that  of  Zuma, 
an  A  rab  widow,  possessor  of  a  thousand  slaves,  and  the  se- 
cond personage  in  Wawa.  Being  turned  of  twenty,  she 
wa£  considered  here  as  past  her  bloom,  and  a  too  ample 


178    clapperton's  second  journey. 

indulgence  in  the  luxuries  which  her  wealth  afforded  had  en- 
larged her  dimensions  till  they  could  be  justly  likened  to 
those  of  a  huge  water-cask  ;  yet  she  had  still  some  beauty, 
and,  being  only  of  a  deep-brown  complexion,  considered 
herself  white,  and  was  in  the  most  eager  search  after  a 
white  husband.  In  this  pursuit  she  cast  her  eyes  first  upon 
the  servant,  to  whom  our  traveller  hesitates  not  to  assign 
the  palm  of  good  looks  in  preference  to  himself;  and  he 
gave  Lander  full  permission  to  follow  his  fortune.  But  that 
sage  person,  unmoved  by  all  her  charms  and  possessions, 
repelled  the  overture  in  so  decided  a  mamier,  that  the  widow 
soon  saw  there  was  nothing  to  be  made  of  him.  She  then 
withdrew  her  artillery  from  Lander,  and  directed  it  entirely 
against  his  master,  the  Captain,  to  whom  she  laid  very  close 
siege.  At  length,  in  a  frolic,  he  agreed  to  visit  her.  He 
found  her  surrounded  by  every  circumstance  of  African 
pomp,  seated  cross-legged  on  a  piece  of  Turkey  carpet,  with 
an  English  pewter  mug  for  her  goora-pot,  and  dressed  in  a 
rich  striped  silk  and  cotton  robe  of  country  manufacture. 
Her  eyebrows  were  dyed  black,  her  hair  blue,  her  hands  and 
feet  red  ;  necklaces  and  girdles  of  beads,  coral,  and  gold 
profusely  adorned  her  person.  She  made  a  display  of  ad- 
ditional finery  lodged  in  her  repositories,  leading  him 
through  a  series  of  apartments,  one  of  which  was  orna- 
mented with  a  number  of  pewter  dishes  and  bright  brass 
pans.  After  these  preliminaries,  she  at  once  declared  her 
wish  to  accompany  him  on  his  journey,  and  proposed  to 
send  forthwith  for  a  malem,  or  holy  man,  to  read  the  fatlia^ 
by  which  their  fates  would  be  indissolubly  united.  Clap- 
perton,  who  seems  to  have  been  completely  stunned  by  this 
proposal,  stammered  out  the  best  apology  he  could,  and  has- 
tened away.  His  conduct,  however,  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  so  decisive  as  to  deter  the  lady  from  the  most  en- 
ergetic perseverance  in  her  suit.  She  even  obtained  his 
permission  for  his  servant  Pascoe  to  accept  a  wife  from 
among  her  slaves  ;  but  he  was  not  aware  that,  according 
to  African  ideas,  she  had  thus  acquired  a  sort  of  claim  to 
himself 

Regardless  of  all  these  tender  solicitations,  our  traveller 
had  no  sooner  completed  his  arrangements  than  he  set  out 
for  the  Niger,  leaving  directions  for  his  baggage  to  join 
him  at  the  i'erry  of  Comic,  while  he  went  round  by  way  of 


clapperton's  second  journey.    179 

Boussa.  We  shall  follow  him  at  present  to  the  former  place, 
where  he  did  not  iind  any  of  his  baggage,  but  learned  that 
the  widow,  having  placed  it  under  arrest,  had  left  Wawa 
with  drums  beating  and  a  numerous  train  ;  and  besides, 
that  she  claimed  a  full  right  to  his  person,  because  his  ser- 
vant Pascoe  had  accepted  a  wife  at  her  hand.  It  was  whis- 
pered, moreover,  that  she  was  meditating  to  supplant  the 
governor, — a  scheme  which,  aided  by  the  personal  bravery 
of  the  strangers,  she  might  probably  realize, — and  afterward 
she  meant  to  invite  the  Captain  to  ascend  the  throne  of 
Wawa.  "  It  would  have  been  a  fine  end  to  my  journey  in- 
deed," says  he,  "  if  I  had  deposed  old  Mohammed,  and  set 
up  for  myself,  with  a  walking  tunbutt  for  a  queen."  Scarcely 
had  he  received  this  account  when  a  present  from  the  widow 
intimated  her  arrival  in  a  neighbouring  village.  Our  au- 
thor, however,  insensible  to  all  the  brilliant  hopes  thus 
opened,  set  oft"  full  speed  for  Wawa  to  recover  his  baggage. 
On  his  arrival,  the  governor  refused  to  liberate  it  till  Zuma's 
return, — Clapperton  in  vain  protesting  that  his  movements 
and  hers  had  no  sort  of  connexion.  However,  next  day, 
the  sound  of  drums  was  heard,  and  the  widow  made  her 
entree  in  full  pomp,  astride  on  a  very  fine  horse,  with  hous- 
ings of  scarlet  cloth,  trimmed  with  lace.  The  large  cir- 
cumference of  her  own  person  was  invested  in  a  red  silk 
mantle,  red  trowsers,  and  morocco  boots ;  and  numerous 
spells,  sewed  variously  in  coloured  leather,  were  hung  all 
round  her.  She  was  followed  by  a  train  of  armed  attend- 
ants, and  preceded  by  a  drummer  decked  in  ostrich  feathers. 
On  the  whole,  the  scene  was  so  splendid,  that  our  hero's  re- 
solution seems  for  a  moment  to  have  wavered.  However, 
his  part  was  soon  taken.  Pascoe  was  directed  to  return 
his  wife,  and  thus  extinguish  all  claim  that  could  be  founded 
upon  her  ;  and  having  received  his  baggage,  our  country- 
man set  forward  without  even  admitting  the  fond  widow  to 
any  farther  conference. 

On  his  way  to  Comie,  Clapperton  had  visited  Boussa, 
a  place  chiefly  interesting  as  the  scene  where  the  career  of 
Park  terminated  in  a  manner  so  tragical.  Every  thing 
tended  to  confirm  the  report  of  Amadi  Fatouma,  and  to 
dispel  the  skepticism  with  which  it  had  been  originally  re- 
garded. The  king,  however,  and  all  the  citizens,  spoke  of 
the  event  with  deep  grief  and  reluctance,  and  disavowed  all 


180     CLAPPERTON'S  SECOND  JOURNEY. 

personal  concern  in  the  transaction.  One  man  gave  as  th« 
reason  of  the  attack  on  the  discoverers,  that  the  English 
had  been  mistaken  for  the  advanced  guard  of  the  Fellatas, 
who  were  then  ravaging  Soudan.  It  was  added,  that  a 
number  of  natives  died  in  consequence,  as  was  imagined, 
of  eating  the  meat  foimd  in  the  boats,  which  was  supposed 
to  be  human  flesh.  That  the  English  have  no  abode  but 
on  the  sea,  and  that  they  eat  the  flesh  of  the  negroes  whom 
they  purchase,  are,  it  seems,  two  ideas  most  widely  pre- 
valent over  Africa.  Even  the  king  of  Boussa  could  scarcely 
be  brought  to  believe  that  they  had  a  spot  of  land  to  dwell 
upon.  The  Captain  and  his  party  were  received,  however, 
wilh  the  same  kindness  and  cordiality  which  they  had  ex- 
perienced ever  since  they  entered  the  country.  Seven  boats 
were  here  waiting  for  them,  sent  by  the  sultan  of  Youri, 
with  a  letter,  in  which  he  earnestly  solicited  a  visit,  and 
promised,  on  that  condition,  and  on  that  only,  to  deliver  up 
the  books  and  papers  of  Park.  It  is  deeply  to  be  regretted 
that  our  traveller  could  not  reconcile  it  with  his  plans  to  go 
to  Youri  at  this  time,  proposing  to  visit  it  on  his  return, 
which,  it  is  well  known,  never  took  place. 

On  crossing  the  Niger,  Captain  Clapperton  entered 
Nyffe,  a  country  which  had  been  always  reported  to  him  as 
the  finest,  most  indu?trious,  and  most  flourishing  in  Africa , 
but  he  found  it,  as  indeed  he  had  been  forewarned  by  the 
king  of  Yarriba,  a  prey  to  the  most  desolating  civil  war. 
The  succession  being  disputed  between  two  princes,  one  of 
them  called  in  the  Fellatas,  and,  by  giving  up  his  country 
to  their  ravages,  obtained  the  privilege  of  reigning  over  its 
ruins.  Our  traveller,  in  his  journey  to  the  sansan  or  camp, 
saw  only  wasted  towns,  plantations  choked  with  weeds,  and 
a  few  remnants  of  a  miserable  population.  This  African 
camp  consisted  of  a  number  of  huts  like  bee-hives,  arranged 
in  streets,  with  men  weaving,  women  spinning,  markets  at 
every  green  tree,  holy  men  counting  their  beads,  and  disso- 
lute slaves  drinking  ;  so  that,  but  for  the  number  of  horses 
and  armed  men,  and  the  drums  beating,  it  might  have  been 
mistaken  for  a  populous  village. 

Amid  this  desolation,  two  towns,  Koolfu  and  Kufu,  being 
walled  and  situated  on  the  high  road  of  the  Houssa  cara- 
vans, had  protected  themselves  in  some  measure  from  th« 
common  calamity,  and  were  still  flourislyng  seats  of  tradt-* 


clapperton's  second  journey.         181 

All  the  merchants  halted  for  some  time  at  Koolfii,  and  those 
from  Bomou  seldom  went  farther.  The  market  was 
crowded  with  the  same  articles  as  that  of  Kano.  The 
Moslem  religion  was  the  most  prevalent ;  but  it  had  not 
yet  moulded  society  into  the  usual  gloomy  monotony  ;  nor 
had  it  succeeded  in  secluding  or  subjecting  the  female  sex, 
who,  on  the  contrary,  were  the  most  active  agents  in  every 
mercantile  transaction.  Our  tra*veller  knew  twenty-one 
female  brokers  living  at  the  same  time  in  one  house,  who 
went  about  continually  from  market  to  market.  Many  had 
amassed  considerable  wealth,  and  were  persons  of  great 
consequence, — quite  in  their  own  right.  Elated  with  this 
distinction,  they  claimed  considerable  latitude  as  to  their 
deportment,  and  spent  whole  nights  with  the  men  in  sing- 
ing and  drinking, — a  species  of  indulgence  very  prevalent 
in  all  these  entrepots  of  African  trade.  The  English,  how- 
ever, experienced  here  none  of  the  bigoted  enmity  which 
they  had  encountered  in  other  Moslem  cities.  On  the  con- 
trary, they  were  the  objects  of  much  kindness ;  the  prin- 
cipal people  of  the  place  sent  presents,  and  the  lower  ranks 
sought  to  obtain  a  sight  of  them  by  mounting  the  trees 
which  overlooked  their  residence.  The  Koran  does  not 
seem  to  have  much  embarrassed  the  Koolfuans.  Their 
only  mode  of  studying  it  was,  to  have  the  characters  written 
with  a  black  substance  on  a  piece  of  board,  then  to  wash 
them  off,  and  drink  the  water ;  and  when  asked  by  our  tra- 
veller what  spiritual  benefit  could  be  derived  from  the  mere 
swallowing  of  dirty  water,  they  indignantly  retorted, — 
"  What !  do  you  call  the  name  of  God  dirty  water  ?"  This 
mode  of  imbibing  sacred  truth  is  indeed  extensively  pur- 
sued throughout  the  interior  of  the  African  continent. 

Captain  Clapperton  passed  next  through  Kotongkora 
and  Guari,  two  states  which,  united  in  a  league  with  Cubbi 
and  Youri,  had  shaken  off  the  yoke  of  the  Fellatas.  Guari, 
strongly  situated  among  hills,  could  bring  a  thousand  horse 
into  the  field.  He  then  entered  Zeg-zeg,  a  Fellata  country, 
which,  especially  around  Zaria,  its  capital,  seems  to  be  one 
of  the  very  finest  in  all  Africa.  It  was  beautifully  varie- 
gated with  hill  and  dale,  like  the  finest  parts  of  England, 
was  covered  with  plentiflil  crops  and  rich  pastures,  and  pro- 
duced the  finest  rice  grown  in  any  part  of  that  continent. 
Rows  of  taU  trees,  resembling  gigantic  avenues  of  poplar, 


182     CLAPPERTON*S  SECOND  JOURNEY. 

extended  from  hill  to  hill.  Zaria,  like  many  other  African 
cities,  might  be  considered  as  a  district  of  country  sur- 
rounded with  walls.  When  the  Captain  entered,  he  saw 
for  some  time  only  fields  of  grain,  with  the  tops  of  houses 
rising  behind  them  ;  still  such  was  its  extent,  that  its  popu- 
lation was  said  to  exceed  that  of  Kano,  and  to  amount  to 
at  least  50,000. 

Setting  out  from  Zaria,  he  soon  reached  his  old  quarters 
at  Kano ;  but  he  unfortimately  found  that  great  city  in  a 
state  of  dreadful  agitation.  There  was  war  on  every  side  ; 
hostilities  had  been  declared  between  the  king  of  Bomou 
and  the  Fellatas ;  the  provinces  of  Zamfra  and  Goobur 
were  in  open  insurrection ;  the  Tuaricks  threatened  an 
inroad ;  in  short,  there  was  not  a  quarter  to  which  the  mer- 
chants durst  send  a  caravan.  Kano  being  nearly  midway 
between  Bomou  and  Sackatoo,  Clapperton  left  his  baggage 
there  to  be  conveyed  to  the  former  on  his  return,  and  set 
out  for  the  capital  of  Bello,  bearing  only  the  presents  des- 
tined for  that  prince.  On  his  way  he  found  numerous 
bands  mustering  to  form  an  army  destined  to  attack  Coonia, 
the  rebel  metropolis  of  Goobur.  The  appearance  of  these 
troops  was  very  striking  as  they  passed  along  the  borders 
of  some  beautiful  little  lakes  formed  by  the  river  Zirmie. 
These  waters  were  bordered  by  forests  of  flowering  acacias, 
with  dark-green  leaves,  the  shadows  of  which  were  re- 
flected on  the  smooth  surface  of  the  lake  like  sheets  of  bur- 
nished gold  and  silver.  "  The  smoking  fires,  the  sounding 
of  horns,  the  beating  of  their  gongs  or  drums,  the  braying 
of  their  brass  and  tin  trumpets,  every  where  the  calls  on  the 
names  of  Mohammed,  Abda,  Mustapha,  with  the  neighing 
of  horses  and  the  braying  of  asses,  gave  animation  to  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  lake,  and  its  sloping  green  and 
woody  banks." 

At  length  the  army  mustered  to  the  number  of  50,000  or 
60,000,  chiefly  on  foot ;  a  rude  feudal  host,  arranging 
themselves  according  to  their  provinces  and  chiefs,  without 
any  military  order.  In  a  short  time,  they  formed  a  dense 
circle  around  the  walls  of  Coonia.  Captain  Clapperton  ex- 
pected to  see  some  brilliant  exploit  performed  by  the  united 
force  of  this  great  army,  commanded  by  the  sultan  and  Ga- 
dado  in  person.  The  whole,  however,  both  horse  and  foot, 
kept  carefully  out  of  the  reach  of  the  arrows,  which,  with  a 


CLAPPERTON'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  183 

fniTC  and  steady  aim,  the  enemy  directed  against  them. 
From  time  to  time  indeed  a  doughty  warrior,  well  covered 
with  armour,  rode  up,  calling,  "  Shields  to  the  wall !  Why 
don't  you  come  on!"  but  he  instantly  and  quickly  rode 
back,  amid  the  derisive  shouts  of  his  countrymen.  The 
only  parties  who  exposed  themselves  to  real  danger  were  a 
few  chiefs,  in  quilted  armour,  ornamented  with  gaudy  robes 
and  ostrich  plumes,  and  of  such  weight  that  two  men  were 
required  to  lift  them  on  horseback :  several  of  them  were 
brought  down  by  the  fire  of  one  well-directed  musket  from 
the  walls.  Evening  closed  without  any  thing  being  effected 
by  this  band  of  heroes ;  and  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  an 
alarm  being  raised  of  a  sally  from  the  garrison,  the  whole 
besieging  army  began  a  tumultuous  flight,  tumbling  over 
each  other  and  upsetting  every  thing  in  their  way,  thinking 
only  how  they  might  soonest  escape  from  danger.  The 
retreat  was  continued  through  the  whole  of  the  following 
day  and  night,  no  halt  having  taken  place  till  ten  of  the 
second  morning.     Thus  closed  this  memorable  campaign. 

Clapperton,  at  the  sultan's  suggestion,  repaired  to  Sack- 
atoo  (which  he  now  calls  Soccatoo) ;  the  monarch  himself 
remaining  behind  at  Magaria,  a  neighbouring  town,  which 
he  was  raising  into  a  new  capital.  The  traveller's  time 
was  spent  between  the  two  places.  He  found,  however, 
an  entire  change  in  the  feelings  of  kindness  and  cordiality 
towards  himself,  which  had  been  so  remarkably  displayed 
in  the  former  journey.  Jealousies  had  begun  to  fester  in 
the  breasts  of  the  African  princes.  They  dreaded  some  am- 
bitious design  in  those  repeated  missions  sent  by  England 
without  any  conceivable  motive  ;  for,  that  men  should  un- 
dertake such  long  journeys  out  of  mere  curiosity,  they  could 
never  imagine.  The  sultan  accordingly  had  received  a 
letter  from  the  court  of  Bornou,  warning  him  that,  by  this 
very  mode  of  sending  embassies  and  presents,  which  the 
English  were  now  following  towards  the  states  of  Central 
Africa,  they  had  made  themselves  masters  of  India,  and 
trampled  on  all  its  native  princes.  The  writer,  therefore, 
gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  Clapperton  should  immediately 
be  put  to  death.  An  alarm  had,  in  fact,  been  spread 
throughout  Sackatoo  that  the  English  were  coming  to  in- 
vade Houssa.  The  panic  was  groundless  ;  no  European 
potentate  would  at  present  dream  of  attempting  to  conquer 


184         clapperton's  second  journey. 

those  vast  and  almost  inaccessible  regions  of  Interior 
Africa.  However,  with  the  imperfect  knowlrd^e  possessed 
by  these  chiefs,  and  the  facts  before  them  relative  to  India, 
they  had  scarcely  the  means  of  judging  as  to  the  foundation 
of  their  apprehensions.  The  sultan,  irritated  doubtless  at 
the  shameful  result  of  his  grand  expedition  against  Coonia, 
felt  also  another  and  more  pressing  fear.  War  had  just 
broken  out  between  himself  and  the  king  of  Bornou ; 
Clapperton  was  on  his  way  to  visit  that  prince,  and  had 
left  six  muskets  at  Kano,  supposed  to  be  intended  as  pre- 
sents to  him  ;  and  six  muskets  in  Central  Africa,  where  the 
whole  Fellata  empire  could  scarcely  muster  forty,  were 
almost  enough  to  turn  the  scale  between  these  two  great  mi- 
litary powers.  Under  the  impulse  of  these  feelings,  Bello  pro- 
ceeded to  steps  unworthy  of  a  prince  and  a  man  of  honour. 
He  demanded  a  sight  of  the  letter  which  Clapperton  was 
conveying  to  the  king  of  Bomou ;  and  when  this  was  of 
course  refused,  he  seized  it  by  violence.  Lander  was  in- 
duced by  false  pretences  to  bring  the  baggage  from  Kano 
to  Sackatoo,  when  forcible  possession  was  taken  of  the  six 
muskets.  The  Captain  loudly  exclaimed  against  these 
proceedings,  declaring  them  to  amount  to  the  basest  rob- 
bery, to  a  breach  of  all  faith,  and  to  be  the  worst  actions 
of  which  any  man  could  be  guilty.  This  was  rather  strong 
language  to  be  used  to  a  sovereign,  especially  to  one  who 
could  at  any  moment  have  cut  oft'  his  head  ;  and  the  minis- 
ter even  dropped  hints  as  if  matters  might  come  to  that 
issue,  though,  in  point  of  fact,  the  government  did  not  pro- 
ceed to  any  personal  violence.  But,  from  other  causes,  the 
career  of  this  spirited  and  hitherto  successful  traveller  was 
now  drawing  to  a  close. 

The  strong  constitution  of  Clapperton  had  till  this  period 
enabled  him  to  resist  all  the  baneful  influences  of  an  Afri- 
can climate.  He  had  recovered,  though  perhaps  not  com- 
pletely, from  the  effects  of  the  rash  exposure  which  had 
proved  fatal  to  his  two  companions ;  but  he  had,  when 
overcome  with  heat  and  fatigue,  in  hunting  at  Magaria, 
lain  down  on  a  damp  spot  in  the  open  air,  and  was  soon 
after  seized  with  dysentery,  which  continued  to  assume 
more  alarming  symptoms.  Indeed,  after  the  seizure  of  the 
letter  to  the  sultan  of  Bornou,  he  was  never  seen  to  smile, 
and  in  his  sleep  was  heard  addressing  loud  reproaches  to 


CLAPPERTON  S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  185 

the  Arabs,  Unable  to  rise  from  bed,  and  deserted  by  all 
his  African  friends,  who  saw  him  no  longer  a  favourite  at 
court,  he  was  watched  with  tender  care  by  his  faithful  ser- 
vant Richard  Lander,  who  devoted  his  whole  time  to  at- 
tendance on  his  sick  master.  At  length  he  called  him  to 
his  bedside,  and  said — "  Richard,  I  shall  shortly  be  no 
more, — I  feel  myself  dying."  Almost  choked  with  grief, 
Lander  replied,  "  God  forbid,  my  dear  master, — you  will 
live  many  years  yet."  But  the  other  rejilied,  *'  don't  be 
60  much  affected,  my  dear  boy,  I  entreat  you  ;  it  is  the  will 
of  the  Almighty,  it  cannot  be  helped."  He  then  gave  par- 
ticular directions  as  to  the  disposal  of  his  papers,  and  of  all 
that  remained  of  his  property  ;  to  which  strict  attention 
was  promised.  "  He  then,"  says  Lander,  "  took  my  hand 
within  his,  and  looking  me  full  in  the  face,  while  a  tear 
*tood  glistening  in  his  eye,  said,  in  a  low  but  deeply-affect- 
mg  tone,  '  My  dear  Richard,  if  you  had  not  been  with  me 
I  should  have  died  long  ago  ;  I  can  only  thank  you  with 
my  latest  breath  for  your  kindness  and  attachment  to  me  ; 
and  if  I  could  have  lived  to  return  with  you,  you  should  have 
been  placed  beyond  the  reach  of  want ;  but  God  will  reward 
you.'  "  He  still  survived  some  days,  and  appeared  even  to 
rally  a  little  ;  but,  one  morning.  Lander  was  alarmed  by  a 
peculiar  rattling  sound  in  his  throat,  and,  hastening  to  the 
bedside,  found  him  sitting  up,  and  staring  wdldly  around ; 
he  laid  his  head  gently  on  the  dying  man's  shoulder  ;  some 
indistinct  words  quivered  on  his  lips  ;  he  strove,  but  inef- 
fectually, to  give  them  utterance,  and  expired  without  a 
struggle  or  a  sigh. 

Bello  seems  to  have  repented  in  some  degree  of  his  harsh 
conduct,  especially  after  news  arrived  of  a  great  victory 
gained  by  his  troops  over  the  sultan  of  Bornou.  He  allowed 
Lander  to  perform  the  funeral  obsequies  with  every  mark 
of  respect.  He  also  supplied  him  with  the  means  of  return- 
ing home,  allowing  him  to  choose  his  road,  though  advising 
him  to  prefer  that  through  the  Great  Desert ;  but  Lander 
had  already  had  too  many  dealings  with  the  Arabs,  and 
therefore  preferred  his  old  track  through  the  negro  coun- 
tries. 

On  his  arrival  at  Kano,  Lander  formed  a  spirited  and 
highly-laudable  design,  which  proves  him  to  be  possessed 
of  a  mind  much  superior  to  his  station.     This  was  nothing 


186    clapperton's  second  journey. 

less  than  an  attempt  to  resolve  the  great  question  respects 
ing  the  termination  of  the  Niger ;  which  he  hoped  to  effect 
by  proceeding  to  Fundah,  the  place,  every  one  admits,  at 
which  the  point  may  most  easily  be  determined, — whether 
it  flows  onward  to  the  sea  or  turns  eastward  into  the  inte- 
rior. Lander,  in  order  to  reach  that  city,  proceeded  due 
Bouth,  through  a  country  diversified  with  rising  ground,  but 
istill  presenting  the  same  fertile  and  luxuriant  aspect  as 
that  through  which  he  had  just  passed.  He  was  told, 
however,  that  to  the  south  there  was  a  very  elevated 
mountainous  region,  inhabited  by  a  savage  people  called 
Yemyems.  These  are  probably  the  Lamlam  of  Edrisi, 
reported  to  be  devourers  of  human  flesh,  and  who  were 
said  to  have  lately  killed  and  eaten  a  whole  caravan ;  since 
which  time  no  one  had  been  much  inclined  to  go  near  them. 
The  chief  place  through  which  Lander  passed  was  Cuttup, 
composed  of  five  hundred  little  villages,  clustered  together, 
and  forming  the  market  for  a  very  great  extent  of  country. 
The  king's  wives  were  vastly  delighted  to  receive  one  or 
two  gilt  buttons  from  the  traveller's  jacket ;  and,  imagin- 
ing them  to  be  pure  gold,  fastened  them  to  their  ears. 
From  Cuttup  he  proceeded  to  Dunrora,  where  he  was  in- 
formed that  about  half  a  day's  journey  eastward  was  the 
large  city  of  Jacoba,  near  which  flowed  the  Shary,  in  a 
continuous  course  between  the  Tchad  and  Fundah  ;  which 
last  place  lay  now  in  the  direction  of  due  west.  Lander 
here  promised  himself  the  satisfaction,  in  ten  or  twelve 
days,  of  finally  solving  the  grand  African  problem,  when 
suddenly  four  horsemen,  with  foaming  steeds,  galloped  into 
the  town.  Their  leader,  followed  by  an  immense  multi- 
tude, rode  up,  and  told  the  traveller  that  he  must  instantly 
return  to  the  king  of  Zeg-zeg.  Lander  endeavoured  to 
argue  the  point,  but  could  get  no  answer,  except  that  they 
must  either  bring  him  with  them  or  lose  their  heads.  It 
behooved  him  then,  of  necessity,  to  repair  to  Zaria,  the  capi- 
tal, where,  being  introduced  to  the  king,  and  having  de- 
livered his  presents,  that  prince  boasted  of  having  done 
him  the  greatest  possible  favour,  since  the  people  of  Fun- 
dah, being  now  at  war  with  Sultan  Bello,  would  certainly 
have  murdered  any  one  who  had  come  from  visiting  and 
carrying  gifts  to  that  monarch.  From  this  reasoning, 
sound  or  otherwise,  Lander  had  no  appeal,  and  found  no 


LAING.  187 

ftltemative  but  to  make  his  way  back  by  his  former  path. 
In  all  the  places  through  which  he  passed,  anxious  in- 
quiries were  made  about  "  his  father,"  as  the  people  called 
Clapperton  ;  and  when  they  heard  of  his  death,  they  raised 
loud  lamentations.  He  reached  Badagry  on  the  21st  No- 
vember, 1827;  but,  being  detained  some  time  there  and  at 
Cape  Coast  Castle,  did  not  reach  England  till  the  30th 
April,  1828. 

The  British  government  were  still  indefatigable  in  their 
exertions  to  explore  every  region  of  Africa.  At  the  same 
time  that  Clapperton  proceeded  on  his  second  expedition, 
Major  Laing,  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  the  Ashan- 
tee  war,  and  in  the  short  excursion  already  mentioned  to- 
wards the  source  of  the  Niger,  undertook  to  penetrate  to 
Timbuctoo,  which,  from  the  first  era  of  modern  discovery, 
has  been  regarded  as  the  most  prominent  city  of  Central 
Africa,  Tripoli  was  again  chosen  as  the  starting  point, 
from  which  he  directed  his  steps  south-west  across  the 
Desert  by  way  of  Ghadamis.  He  set  out  under  the  pro- 
tection of  sheik  Babani,  who  had  resided  twenty-two  years  at 
Timbuctoo,  and  proved  now  to  be  governor  of  Ghadamis  ; 
but  in  the  midst  of  the  Desert,  sixteen  days  after  leaving 
Tuat,  a  band  of  ferocious  Tuaricks  surprised  the  cafila 
while  Major  Laing  was  in  bed,  and  having  inflicted  twenty- 
four  wounds,  eight  of  them  with  a  sabre,  left  him  for  dead. 
Through  the  care  of  his  companions,  however,  he  made  a 
surprising  recovery,  numerous  portions  of  bone  having 
been  extracted  from  his  head  and  temples.  After  some 
farther  delays  he  succeeded,  on  the  18th  August,  1826,  in 
reaching  Timbuctoo,  where  he  remained  for  upwards  of  a 
month.  Several  letters  were  received  from  him  dated  at 
that  celebrated  city,  respecting  which  he  stated,  that,  ex- 
cept in  point  of  extent,  which  did  not  exceed  the  circuit  of 
four  miles,  it  had  completely  answered  his  expectation ; 
that  he  had  found  its  records  copious  and  interesting  ;  and 
had  collected  ample  materials  for  correcting  and  improving 
the  geography  of  this  part  of  Africa.  But  his  departure 
was  hastened  by  the  following  circumstance  :  Labo,  or 
Bello,  sultan  of  Masina,  having  obtained  the  supremacy 
over  Timbuctoo,  sent  a  letter  to  Osman,  the  governor,  with 
instructions  that  the  Christian,  who,  he  understood,  was 
expected  there,  should  be  forthwith  expelled  in  such  a 


188  CAILLIE. 

manner  as  to  leave  him  no  hope  of  ever  returning.  Laing, 
thus  obUged  to  accelerate  his  retreat,  made  an  arrangement 
with  Barbooshi,  a  Moorish  merchant,  to  accompany  and 
protect  him  in  the  route  by  Sego  to  the  coast,  which  he  had 
determined  to  follow.  Three  days  after  leaving  Timbuc- 
too,  when  the  caravan  was  in  the  heart  of  the  Desert,  this 
wretch,  instigated  by  the  basest  avarice,  murdered,  in  the 
night-time,  the  individual  whom  he  had  undertaken  to 
guard,  taking  possession  of  all  his  effects.  Yet  Major 
Laing's  papers,  it  appears,  were  carried  to  Timbuctoo  ;  nay, 
the  Quarterly  Review  has  produced  strong  reasons  for  be- 
lieving that  they  were  actually  conveyed  back  to  Tripoli, 
and  that  it  was  owing  to  the  vilest  treachery,  in  a  quarter 
where  it  ought  least  to  have  been  apprehended,  that  they 
have  not  been  forwarded  to  the  British  government.  As, 
however,  the  light,  which  is  still  much  wanted,  may  per- 
haps be  hereafter  thrown  on  this  dark  transaction,  we  wish 
not  at  present  to  allude  to  it  in  a  more  pointed  manner. 

Another  journey  was  now  announced,  which,  in  the  first 
instance,  strongly  excited  the  public  expectation.  The 
French  savayis  proclaimed  throughout  Europe,  that  M. 
Cailli^,  their  countryman,  animated  by  the  hope  of  a  prize 
offered  by  the  Society  of  Geography,  had  penetrated  across 
Africa  from  Sierra  Leone  to  Morocco,  having  passed  through 
Jenne  and  Timbuctoo,  those  two  great  seats  of  commerce 
which  modern  travellers  had  sought  so  long  to  reach,  and 
whence  none  had  ever  returned.  Cailli^,  rewarded  with  a 
pension  and  the  cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honour,  was  imme 
diately  classed  with  the  first  of  modern  travellers.  These 
somewhat  extravagant  pretensions,  contrasted  with  the  de- 
fects of  the  narrative  itself  when  laid  before  the  public,  gave 
rise  in  high  quarters  to  a  doubt  whether  there  were  any 
reality  whatever  in  this  expedition,  and  whether  M.  Cailli^ 
were  not  another  Bamberger.  On  a  careful  examination 
of  circumstances  we  are  inclined  to  believe  the  accuracy  of 
the  narrative.  There  seems  good  authority  for  admitting 
his  departure  from  Sierra  Leone  ;  for  his  having  announced 
the  intention  to  undertake  this  journey;  and,  lastly,  for  his 
arrival  at  Rabat  in  Morocco,  in  the  condition  of  a  dis- 
tressed, way-worn  traveller.  His  statement,  too,  with  all 
its  defects,  bears  an  aspect  of  simplicity  and  good  faith,  and 
contains  various  minute  details,  including  undesigned  coiii- 


CAILLIE.  189 

cidences  with  facts  ascertained  from  other  quarters.  His 
false  reports  of  celestial  phenomena  might  arise  from  his 
ignorance  of  such  subjects ;  while  his  inaccuracies  in  re- 
gard to  Major  Laing  might  proceed  from  the  defective  hear- 
say information  on  which  he  depended.  Perhaps  these 
last  form  rather  a  presumption  in  his  favour,  since,  in  com- 
posing a  forgery,  he  would  probably  have  brought  his  state- 
ments into  a  studious  agreement  with  those  of  the  Quar- 
terly Review,  well  known  as  the  only  authentic  source  in 
this  country. 

Though  disposed  to  consider  M.  Caillie's  expedition  as 
genuine  and  authentic,  we  regard  it  nevertheless  as  having 
made  only  a  limited  addition  to  our  knowledge  of  Interior 
Africa.  English  travellers  had  already  explored  the  coun- 
try all  around  Timbuctoo,  had  traced  the  Niger  far  beyond 
that  city,  and  had  ascertained  its  position  in  respect  to  the 
surrounding  regions.  The  object  now  is,  to  obtain  a  de- 
scription of  Timbuctoo  by  an  intelligent  and  learned  tra- 
veller, which  M.  Caillie  is  not.  He  certainly  deserves  com- 
mendation for  his  enterprise  ;  but  fortune  has  denied  him 
education,  and  nature  has  not  bestowed  upon  him  any 
ample  share  of  reflection  or  judgment.  Nevertheless  it 
was  impossible  to  pass  through  such  extensive  and  re- 
markable countries  without  gleaning  some  valuable  inform- 
ation, of  which  we  shall  now  endeavour  to  extract  the  most 
important  particulars. 

Rene  Caillie  was  bom  in  1800,  of  poor  parents,  at 
Mauzd,  in  the  department  of  the  Deux  Sevres.  The  read- 
ing of  voyages  and  travels,  and  especially  of  Robinson 
Crusoe,  inspired  him,  he  tells  us,  with  such  an  unconquer- 
able thirst  for  adventure  as  took  away  all  relish  for  the 
sports  and  occupations  of  his  age  ;  and,  after  some  opposi- 
tion from  his  friends,  he  was  permitted  to  follow  his  in- 
clination. Having  got  a  sight  of  some  maps  of  Africa,  the 
vast  spaces  left  vacant,  or  marked  as  unknown,  excited  in 
his  mind  a  peculiar  interest ;  hence,  in  1816,  he  sailed  from 
Rochefort  for  the  Senegal.  Some  time  after  his  arrival, 
having  learned  the  departure  of  Major  Gray's  expedition  for 
the  interior,  he  resolved  to  join  it,  and  actually  set  out  on 
foot  for  that  purpose  ;  but  the  fatigue  of  walldng  over  loose 
sand  under  a  burning  sun  overpowered  him,  and  he  was 
happy  to  obtain  a  water  conveyance  to  Goree.     He  even 


190  CAILLIE. 

left  Africa,  but  returned  m  the  end  of  1818.  Finding  at 
St.  Louis  a  party  setting  out  with  supplies  for  Major  Gray, 
he  joined  them,  and  arrived  at  Bondou,  but  only  in  time  to 
witness  and  share  the  failure  of  that  expedition. 

M.  Caillie's  health  having  suftered  severely  from  the 
fatigues  of  this  journey,  he  returned  and  spent  some  years 
in  France ;  but  in  1824  he  repaired  again  to  the  Senegal, 
and  resumed  his  schemes  of  discovery.  With  the  aid  of 
M.  Roger,  the  governor,  he  passed  nearly  a  year  among 
the  tribe  of  Moors  called  Braknas,  and  conceived  himself  to 
have  acquired  such  a  knovpledge  of  the  manners  and  reli- 
gion of  that  race  as  vpould  fit  him  for  travelling  in  the  cha- 
racter of  a  converted  Mohammedan  on  a  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca.  Having  returned  to  St.  Louis,  he  solicited  from 
two  successive  governors  the  sum  of  6000  francs,  with 
which  he  undertook  to  reach  Timbuctoo ;  but  a  deaf  ear 
was  turned  to  his  application.  He  then  repaired  to  Sierra 
Leone,  and  made  the  same  request  to  General  Turner  and 
Sir  Neil  Campbell ;  but  these  officers  could  not  be  expected, 
without  authority  from  home,  to  bestow  such  a  sum  on  a 
foreigner  possessing  no  very  striking  qualifications.  They 
received  him  kindly,  however,  and  gave  him  appointments 
out  of  which  he  saved  about  SOL  ;  when,  stimulated  by  the 
prize  of  1000  francs  offered  by  the  French  Society  of  Geo- 
graphy to  any  individual  who  should  succeed  in  reaching 
Timbuctoo,  he  formed  the  spirited  resolution  to  undertake 
this  arduous  journey  with  only  the  resources  which  the 
above  slender  sum  could  command. 

On  the  19th  April,  1827,  M.  Cailli^  set  out  from  Ka- 
kundy  with  a  small  caravan  of  Mandingoes.  His  route  lay 
through  the  centre  of  the  kingdom  of  J'oota  Jallo,  in  a  line 
intermediate  between  its  two  capitals  of  Teemboo  and  Laby. 
This  was  a  very  elevated  district,  watered  by  the  infant 
streams  of  the  Senegal  and  Niger,  which  descend  from  a 
still  higher  region  towards  the  south.  It  was  a  laborious 
route  to  travel,  being  steep,  rocky,  traversed  by  numerous 
ravines  and  torrents,  and  often  obstructed  by  dense  forests. 
It  presented,  however,  many  highly-picturesque  views ; 
while  the  copious  rivulets  diffused  a  rich  verdure  over  exten- 
sive tracts,  on  which  the  Foulahs  fed  numerous  flocks, 
which,  with  a  little  rice  they  contrived  to  raise,  sufficed  for 
their  subsistence.     Fruits  of  various  kinds,  yams,  and  other 


CAlLLIE.  191 

vegetables,  are  also  cultivated  with  success.  Their  rude 
agriculture,  however,  is  conducted  chiefly  by  slaves,  who 
are  in  general  well  treated,  living  in  villages  by  themselves, 
and  having  two  days  in  the  week  allowed  to  provide  for 
their  own  subsistence.  Cailli^,  like  other  writers,  describes 
the  Foulahs  as  a  fine  and  handsome  people,  attached  to  a 
pastoral  life,  but  at  the  same  time  very  warlike,  and  exces- 
sively bigoted  in  religion. 

In  his  route  through  Foota  Jallo,  the  traveller  crossed 
the  Bafing,  not  far  from  its  source,  where  it  was  still  ford- 
able,  though  it  rolled  a  rapid  and  foaming  stream  about  100 
paces  broad.  It  is  said,  at  a  little  distance  above,  to  form 
a  very  striking  cataract.  About  100  miles  farther  on,  in 
the  territory  of  Kankan,  near  the  village  of  Couroussa,  he 
came  to  the  Joliba  or  Niger,  already  a  very  considerable 
river,  eight  or  ten  feet  deep,  and  running  at  the  rate  of  two 
miles  and  a  half  an  hour. 

Kankan,  where  the  traveller  spent  some  time,  is  described 
as  an  interesting  place,  with  about  6000  inhabitants,  sur- 
rounded by  a  beautiful  quickset-hedge,  answering  the  pur- 
pose of  a  wall  for  defence.  The  market,  held  thrice  a 
week,  is  extremely  well  supplied,  not  only  with  the  native 
commodities  of  cloth,  honey,  wax,  cotton,  provisions,  cattle, 
and  gold  from  the  neighbouring  district  of  Boure,  but  also 
with  European  articles  brought  up  from  the  coast,  among 
which  the  chief  are,  firearms,  powder,  India  calicoes,  amber, 
beads,  and  coral.  The  adjoining  country  is  fertile  and 
highly  cultivated.  The  Milo,  a  tributary  to  the  Niger, 
runs  close  by  the  town.  To  the  north  is  the  province  of 
Bour^,  which  our  author  represents  as  more  abundant  in 
gold  than  any  other  in  this  part  of  Africa.  The  metallic 
produce  here,  as  well  as  in  the  districts  visited  by  Park,  is 
entirely  alluvial,  imbedded  in  a  species  of  earth,  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  agitation  in  water. 

M.  Caillie  remained  more  than  a  month  at  Kankan  be- 
fore he  could  find  a  caravan  to  guide  him  through  Ouas- 
soulo,  a  fine  country  diversified  by  numerous  little  villages 
surrounded  by  fields  neatly  laid  out  and  highly  cultivated. 
The  people  are  industrious,  mild,  humane,  hospitable,  and, 
though  pagans,  feel  no  enmity  towards  their  Mohammedan 
neighbours.  The  women  weave  a  fine  cotton  cloth,  which 
is  exported  to  all  the  surrounding  districts ;  yet  there  waa 


]92  CAILLIE. 

a  want  of  that  cleanliness  which,  in  Kankan,  had  fonned  a 
pleasant  feature.  Beyond  Ouassoulo  is  the  town  of  Sam- 
batikila,  the  inhabitants  of  which  live  in  voluntary  poverty, 
bestowing  little  trouble  on  the  cultivation  of  the  ground, 
which  they  allege  distracts  them  from  the  study  of  the 
Koran, — a  statement  justly  derided  as  only  a  specious  cloak 
for  their  indolence.  The  traveller  came  next  to  Time, 
situated  in  a  favourable  territory,  fertile,  and  profusely  irri- 
gated, yielding  abundantly  various  fruits  and  vegetables, 
which  are  scarce  or  unknovvTi  on  the  coast.  Among  these 
were  the  shea  or  butter-tree,  and  the  koUa  or  goora  nuts, 
which  are  esteemed  a  great  luxury,  and  conveyed  in  large 
quantities  into  the  interior.  The  victuals,  however,  were 
found  insipid,  owing  to  the  almost  total  absence  of  salt, 
which  can  only  be  procured  by  the  wealthy ;  nor  could  our 
traveller  at  all  relish  the  plan  of  seasoning  food  by  a  sauce 
extracted  from  the  flesh  of  mice. 

He  was  detained  at  Time  upwards  of  five  months  by  a 
severe  illness.  On  the  9th  January,  1828,  he  joined  a  ca- 
ravan for  Jenne,  and  proceeded  through  a  district  generally- 
well  cultivated,  and  containing  a  number  of  considerable 
villages,  till,  on  the  10th  March,  he  came  in  view,  near  the 
village  of  Cougalia,  of  the  Niger,  which  appeared  to  him 
only  about  600  feet  broad,  but  very  deep,  flowing  gently 
through  a  flat  and  open  country.  The  caravan  sailed  across 
it,  and,  after  travelling  six  miles,  and  passing,  by  rather 
deep  fords,  two  smaller  branches,  they  entered  the  city  of 
Jenne,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  and  important  in  Central 
Africa,  and  which  had  never  before  been  visited  by  an  Euro- 
pean traveller. 

Jenne  is  described  by  Caillie  as  situated  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  a  branch  of  the  Niger  separating  below  Sego 
from  the  main  current,  with  which,  after  passing  the  former 
city,  it  again  unites.  This  delineation  seems  doubtful. 
Such  a  branch,  had  it  existed,  would  probably  have  been 
observed  by  Park,  who,  on  the  contrary,  describes  the  river 
which  passes  by  Jenne  as  a  separate  stream,  tributary  to  the 
Niger.  The  Arabic  term,  translated  by  us  island^  is  of  very 
vague  import,  being  familiarly  applied  to  a  peninsula,  and 
even  to  a  space  wholly  or  partially  enclosed  by  river- 
branches.  The  country  around,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  formed  only  a  naked  marshy  plain,  interspersed  with 


CAILLIE.  199 

&  few  clumps  of  trees  and  bushes.  The  city  was  two  milea 
and  a  half  in  circuit,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  earth ;  the 
houses  rather  well  built,  composed  of  sun-dried  bricks,  two 
stories  high,  without  windows  in  front,  but  lighted  from  in- 
terior courts.  The  streets  are  too  narrow  for  carriages,  but 
of  such  breadth  that  seven  or  eight  persons  may  walk 
abreast.  The  population  is  reckoned  by  M.  Cailli6  at  8,000 
or  10,000;  but  upon  this  subject  we  suspect  he  is  apt  to 
form  his  estimates  somewhat  too  low.  The  inhabitants 
consist  of  various  African  tribes,  attracted  by  the  extensive 
commerce  of  which  Jennc  is  the  centre.  The  four  prin- 
cipal are  the  Foulahs,  Mandingoes,  Bambarras,  and  Moors, 
of  whom  the  first  are  the  most  numerous,  and  are  bigoted 
adherents  to  the  Mohammedan  faith,  compelling  the  pagan 
Bambarras  who  resort  to  Jenne  to  conform  to  the  rules  of 
the  Koran  during  their  temporary  residence.  The  trade  is 
chiefly  in  the  hands  of  thirty  or  forty  Moorish  merchants, 
who  often  unite  in  partnership,  and  maintain  a  communi- 
cation with  Timbuctoo,  in  barks  of  considerable  size  ranged 
along  the  river.  The  negro  merchants  also  carry  on  busi- 
ness, but  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  chiefly  in  native  articles. 
The  markets  are  filled  with  the  productions  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  either  for  consumption  or  exportation, 
—cloth,  grain,  fruits,  kolla-nuts,  meat,  fish,  gold  from 
Boure,  and  unhappily  with  numerous  slaves,  who  are  pa- 
raded through  the  streets,  and  offered  at  the  rate  of  from 
35,000  to  40,000  cowries  each.  These  commodities  draw 
in  return  from  Timbuctoo,  salt,  Indian  cloths,  firearms, 
beads,  toys,  and  all  the  variety  of  European  articles.  The 
merchants  of  Jenne  were  found  more  polished  in  their 
manners  than  any  native  Africans  with  whom  Caillie  had 
yet  held  intercourse  :  they  were  extremely  hospitable,  en- 
tertaining him  at  free  quarters  during  his  whole  stay  ;  but 
he  considers  them  as  having  driven  an  exceedingly  hard 
bargain  for  his  goods.  The  mode  of  living,  even  of  the 
most  wealthy,  was  extremely  simple.  Their  houses  con- 
tained scarcely  any  furniture ;  and  their  clothes  were  de- 
posited in  a  large  leathern  bag,  generally  suspended  from 
the  roof.  The  chief  entertainment  to  which  our  traveller 
was  invited  consisted  merely  of  a  huge  fragment  of  a 
sheep  stewed  in  onions,  and,  as  usual,  eaten  with  the 
fingers, — four  cups  of  tea  concluding  the  repast. 
R 


194  CAILLIE. 

On  the  23d  March,  M.  Cailli6  left  Jenne,  near  which  he 
embarked  on  the  Joliba,  which  was  there  half  a  mile  broad, 
in  a  vessel  of  sixty  tons  burden,  but  of  very  slight  construc- 
tion, and  bound  together  with  cords.  Such  barks,  impelled 
without  sails,  and  deeply  laden,  cannot  proceed  with  safety 
when  the  waters  are  agitated  by  a  brisk  gale  ;  therefore 
much  time  is  consumed  in  the  voyage.  The  traveller 
passed  first  through  the  country  of  Banan,  which  presented 
a  surface  flat  and  monotonous,  but  abounding  in  flocks  and 
herds.  On  the  2d  April,  the  river  opened  into  the  great 
lake  Dibbie,  here  called  Debo,  in  sailing  across  which,  not- 
withstanding its  magnitude,  land  was  lost  sight  of  in  no  di- 
rection except  the  west,  where  the  water  appeared  to  extend 
indefinitely  like  an  ocean.  Three  islands,  observed  at  dif- 
ferent points,  were,  not  very  happily,  named  St.  Charles, 
Maria  Theresa,  and  Henri,  after  three  individuals  who,  the 
author  little  suspected,  would  so  soon  be  exiled  from 
France. 

After  quitting  this  lake,  the  Niger  flowed  through  a 
country  thinly  occupied  by  Foulah  shepherds,  and  by  some 
tents  of  the  rude  Tuaricks.  On  the  19th  April,  he  arrived 
at  Cabra,  the  port  of  Timbuctoo,  consisting  of  a  long  row 
of  houses  composed  of  earth  and  straw,  extending  about  half 
a  mile  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  inhabitants,  estimated 
at  about  1200,  are  entirely  employed  in  lading  and  xinlading 
the  numerous  barks  which  touch  at  the  quay. 

In  the  evening  of  the  20th  April,  Cailli^,  with  some  com- 
panions, rode  from  Cabra,  and  entered  Timbuctoo,  which  he 
calls  Temboctou.  He  describes  himself  as  struck  with  an  ex- 
traordinary and  joyful  emotion  at  the  view  of  this  mysterious 
city,  so  long  the  object  of  curiosity  to  the  civilized  nations  of 
^Europe.  The  scene,  however,  presented  Uttle  of  that  gran- 
deur and  wealth  with  which  the  name  has  been  associated. 
It  comprised  only  a  heap  of  ill-built  earthen  houses,  all 
around  which  were  spread  immense  plains  of  moving  sand 
of  a  yellowish-white  colour,  and  parched  in  the  extreme. 
*'  The  horizon  is  of  a  pale  red, — all  is  gloomy  in  nature, — 
the  deepest  silence  reigns, — not  the  song  of  a  single  bird  is 
heard  ;"  yet  there  was  something  imposing  in  the  view  of  a 
great  city,  thus  raised  amid  sands  and  deserts  by  the  mere 
power  of  commerce. 

Although  M.  Cailli^  resided  above  a  fortnight  in  Tim 


Timbuctoo  according  to  Caille.— [p.  195.] 


CAILLIE.  195 

buctoo,  his  information  respecting  it  is  very  defective.  It 
appears,  except  in  point  of  situation,  to  be  nearly  such  a 
city  as  Jenne,  consisting  of  large  houses,  chiefly  tenanted 
by  Moorish  merchants,  intermingled  with  conical  straw-huts 
occupied  by  negroes.  The  author  has  given  a  croquis,  or 
sketch  of  part  of  the  city,  which,  though  very  deficient  in  per- 
spective, is  yet  so  curious  as  to  merit  a  place  in  this  publi- 
cation. There  are  seven  mosques,  of  which  the  principal 
one  is  very  extensive,  having  three  galleries,  each  two  hun- 
dred feet  long,  with  a  tower  upwards  of  fifty  feet  high. 
One  part,  apparently  more  ancient  than  the  rest,  and 
almost  falling  into  ruin,  was  thought  to  exhibit  a  style  of 
architecture  decidedly  superior  to  the  more  modem  build- 
ings. 

Timbuctoo  is  entirely  supported  by  commerce.  It  is  the 
depot  of  the  salt  conveyed  from  the  mines  of  Taudeny,  and 
also  of  the  European  goods  brought  by  the  caravans  from 
Morocco,  as  well  as  by  those  from  Tunis  and  Tripoli,  which 
come  by  way  of  Ghadamis.  These  goods  are  embarked  for 
Jenne,  to  be  exchanged  for  the  gold,  slaves,  and  provisions 
with  which  that  city  exclusively  supplies  Timbuctoo,  the 
neighbourhood  being  almost  a  complete  desert.  The  popu- 
lation is  estimated  at  10,000  or  12,000,  which,  not  being  in 
proportion  to  a  town  three  miles  in  circumference,  is  pro- 
bably underrated.  The  people  are  chiefly  negroes  of  the 
Kissour  tribe,  but  bigoted  Mohammedans.  There  appeared 
less  bustle  and  activity  than  at  Jenne, — a  circumstance 
which  does  not  seem  very  easily  accounted  for.  Osman, 
the  king,  was  an  agreeable-looking  negro  of  fifty-five,  to 
whom  the  traveller  was  introduced,  without  being  aware 
that  he  was  only  viceroy,  or  at  least  tributary,  to  the  sultan 
of  Masina.  The  country  is  much  harassed  by  the  wan- 
dering tribe  of  Tauricks,  who,  like  the  Bedouins  in  Arabia, 
le'y  a  regular  tax  on  the  caravans.* 

*  The  map  constructed  by  M,  Jomard,  upon  Cailli6's  routes,  changes 
greatly  the  position  of  Timbuctoo,  especially  in  respect  to  longitude, 
which  it  places  four  degrees  to  the  westward  of  the  site  assigned  by  Ma- 
jor Rennel.  It  seems  impossible,  however,  to  admit  an  alteration  to  this 
extent,  which  would  throw  Sego  so  far  westward  as  to  render  Park's 
bearings  from  .Tarra  to  Sego,  and  from  Sego  to  Bammakoo,  completely 
erroneous.  Besides,  it  appears  to  us  that  M.  Jomard  has  forced  to  the 
westward  all  the  positions  between  Jenne  and  Timbuctoo,  in  a  manner 
quite  unwarranted  by   M.  Cailli6's  own  descriptions.    This  excess 


196  CAILLIE. 

Cailli^  left  Timbuctoo  on  the  4th  May,  and  in  six  days 
arrived  at  Aroan  or  Arouan,  which  he  found  rather  a  well- 
built  town  of  3000  inhabitants,  supported  solely  by  the  pas- 
sage of  the  caravans  from  Barbary,  and  from  the  salt-mines 
of  Taudeny,  which  usually  halt  here  before  and  after  pass- 
ing the  desert  that  extends  to  the  northwards.  The  envi- 
rons of  Aroan  are  of  the  most  desolate  aspect,  and  all  its 
provisions  are  drawn  from  Jenne  by  way  of  Timbuctoo. 
The  neighbourhood  does  not  afford  an  herb  or  a  shrub,  and 
the  only  fuel  consists  of  the  dried  dung  of  camels.  The 
springs  of  water,  which  alone  render  it  habitable,  are  abun- 
dant, but  of  bad  quality.  The  town  also  carries  on  a  con- 
siderable trade  in  light  goods  directly  with  Sansanding  and 
Yamina.  Walet  was  mentioned  as  a  great  emporium,  situ- 
ated to  the  west-south-west,  in  a  position  somewhat  differ- 
ent from  that  assigned  by  Park  ;  but  the  data  in  both  cases 
are  very  vague,  and  we  do  not  see  the  slightest  ground  for 
M.  Jomard's  conjecture  that  there  are  two  Walets. 

Our  traveller  departed  from  Aroan  on  the  19th  May,  in 
company  with  a  caravan  of  120  camels  laden  with  the  pro- 
ductions of  Soudan.  He  had  the  prospect  of  crossing  a 
desert  of  ten  days'  journey,  in  which  there  was  scarcely 
a  drop  of  water.  "  Before  us  appeared  a  horizon  without 
bounds,  in  which  our  eyes  distinguished  only  an  immense 
plain  of  burning  sand,  enveloped  by  a  sky  on  lire.  At  this 
spectacle  the  camels  raised  long  cries,  and  the  slaves 
mournfully  lifted  their  eyes  to  heaven."  M.  Cailli^,  how- 
ever, departed  in  high  spirits,  animated  by  the  idea  of  being 
the  lirst  European  who  should,  from  the  southern  side,  have 


becomes  manifest  in  the  line  from  Galia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Debo, 
35  miles  of  which  are  stated  to  run  north-east,  without  a  single  move- 
ment in  a  contrary  direction ;  yet  M.  Jomard  has  manceuvred  to  make 
the  last  position  tlie  most  xcesterly  of  the  two.  If  the  route  from  Jenne  to 
Timbuctoo  lies  as  much  to  the  northward  as  M.  Caillie  represents,  where, 
indeed,  he  in  some  measure  agrees  with  the  delineation  of  D'Anville,  it 
must  be  somewhat  farther  west  than  our  maps  place  it,  but  not  nearly  so 
far  as  INI.  Jomard  fixes  it.  In  regard  to  the  observation  of  latitude  at- 
tempted by  the  traveller,  M.  Jomard's  claims  are  indeed  very  moderate, 
since  he  merely  argues,  that  in  the  absence  of  any  other,  this  is  not 
wholly  to  be  neglected  ;  yet  even  this  seems  too  much,  when  he  at  the 
same  time  admits,  that  all  the  observations  made  by  him  in  a  similair 
manner  are  of  no  value  whatever.  Under  these  circumstances,  we  con- 
ceive that  it  would  be  premature  to  change,  in  our  map,  the  position  of 
Timbuctoo  from  that  foruierly  fixed  by  Major  Reitnel 


WESTERN  AFRICA.  197 

crossed  this  ocean  of  shingle.  But  his  tone  of  feeling  was 
soon  lowered  when  he  came  to  experience  the  siifferinga 
arising  from  the  intense  heat,  the  blowing  of  the  sand,  and 
the  scanty  snpply  of  water,  which  was  allowed  to  the  cara- 
van only  twice  a-day  leaving  long  intervals,  during  which 
the  most  tormenting  thirst  was  endured.  Some  small  wells, 
from  which  they  had  hoped  for  a  little  aid,  were  found  dry ; 
so  that  both  men  and  animals  were  reduced  to  the  last  ex- 
tremity, when  they  reached  the  copious  springs  of  TeUg, 
and  relieved  their  thirst  by  repeated  draughts. 

During  many  succeeding  marches,  water  again  became 
scarce,  and  Cailli<5  had  much  to  suffer  from  the  insult  and 
neglect  of  his  companions.  El  Drah,  on  the  outer  frontier  of 
Morocco,  was  the  first  inhabited  district ;  but  it  was  poor, 
and  occupied  by  inhospitable  tribes  of  Moors  and  Berebbers. 
Turning  somewhat  eastward,  they  passed  through  the  fine 
country  of  Tafilet,  covered  with  noble  woods  of  date-trees, 
and  producing  a  valuable  breed  of  sheep.  They  then  crossed 
with  labour  a  rugged  limb  of  the  Atlas,  and  arrived  at  Fez, 
"whence  the  adventurer  found  his  way,  though  in  a  some- 
what poor  plight,  to  Tangier.  He  arrived  on  the  18th 
August,  1828,  and  M.  Delaporte,  the  vice-consul,  received 
■and  forwarded  him  to  France. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Western  Africa. 


The  whole  coast  of  Western  Africa  within  the  tropics, 
forming  a  wide  sweep  around  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  has  long 
been  occupied  by  a  chain  of  European  forts,  erected  with  a 
view  to  the  commerce  in  gold,  iron,  and  palm-oil,  but  above 
all  in  slaves  ;  and  since  this  last  object  has  been  finally 
abandoned  by  Great  Britain,  these  stations  have  become  to 
her  of  very  secondary  importance.  The  territory  is  in  the 
possession  of  a  number  of  petty  states,  many  of  which 
compose  aristocratic  republics,  turbulent,  restless,  licen- 
tious, and  generally  rendered  more  depraved  by  their  fre- 
R3 


198  WESTERN  AFRICA. 

quent  intercourse  with  Europeans.     The  interior  countryj' 
extending  parallel  to  the  great  central  chain  of  mountains, 
of  which  the  principal  branch  is  here  called  Kong,  presents 
nothing  of  that  desert  and  arid  character  which  is  stamped 
on  so  great  a  proportion  of  the  African  continent.     The 
soil,  copiously  watered,  is   liable  rather  to  an   excessive 
luxuriance  ;  but,  where  well  managed,  it  is  highly  fruitfuU 
There  are  found,  too,  in  this  tract,  several  very  powerful 
kingdoms,  better  organized  and  more  improved  than  any 
near  the  coast.     They  have  not,  however,  the   slightest 
tincture  of  European  civilization ;   and  their  manners,  in 
several  important  respects,   are  stained  with   habits    and 
practices  that  belong  to  the  very  lowest  stage  of  savage  life. 
Of  these  greater  states  the  first  to  which  Europeans 
penetrated  was  Dahomey,  which  had  distinguished  itself 
early  in  the  last  century  by  the  conquest  it  then  achieved 
of  the  flourishing  kingdom  of  Whidah,  on  the  slave-coast. 
The  Dahomans  committed  the  most  horrible  ravages  that 
were  ever  witnessed,- — reducing  their  country,  the   most 
fertile  and   beautiful    then  known  in  Western  Africa,  to 
almost  utter  desolation.     As  the  king  of  Dahomey  con- 
tinued to  hold  sway  over  this  province,  Mr.  Norris,  in  1772, 
undertook  a  journey  thither  to  observe  the  character  and 
position   of   this    extraordinary   potentate,    and   to   make 
arrangements  for  the  benefit  of  the  English  trade.     He 
passed  through  a  fine  country,  abounding  in  the  usual  tro- 
pical productions,  and  rising  by  a  gentle  ascent  about  150 
miles  inland  to  Abomey,  the  capital.     He    arrived  at  an 
appalling  season,   that  of  the  annual  customs,  when  the 
great  men  were  assembled  from  every  quarter  of  the  king- 
dom ;  and  he  was  truly  astonished  to  see  those  fierce  and 
warlike  chieftains,  whose  very  name  spreads  terror  through- 
out Africa,  prostrating  themselves  before  the  monarch,  flat 
on  the  ground,  and  piling  dust  on  their  heads  in  token  of 
the  most  abject  submission.     This  homage  is  yielded,  not 
from  fear,  but  from  a  blind  and  idolatrous  veneration,  which 
makes  them  regard  their  king  in  the  light  of  a  superior 
being.     In  his  name   they  rush  to  battle,  and   encounter 
their  foes  with  Spartan  intrepidity.     One  of  them  said  to 
Mr.  Norris,  "  I  thnik  of  my  king,  and  then  I  darfc  engage 
five  of  the  enemy  myself"     He  added,  "  My  head  belongs 
o  the  king,  and  not  to  myself;  if  he  please  to  send  for  it,  I 


NORRIS — DAHOMEY.  199 

ai»  ready  to  resign  it ;  or  if  it  be  shot  through  in  a  battle, 
I  am  satisfied,  since  it  is  in  his  service."  The  main  object 
contemplated  in  this  national  anniversary  is,  that  the  king 
may  water  the  graves  of  his  ancestors  with  the  blood  of 
hmnan  victims.  These  are  numerous,  consisting  of  pri- 
soners taken  in  war,  of  condemned  criminals,  and  of  many 
seized  by  lawless  violence.  The  captives  are  brought  out 
m  succession,  with  their  arms  pinioned ;  and  a  fetisheer^ 
laying  his  hand  upon  the  devoted  head,  utters  a  few  magic 
words,  while  another  from  behind,  with  a  large  scimitar, 
severs  it  from  the  body,  when  shouts  of  applause  ascend 
from  the  surrounding  multitude.  At  any  time  when  the 
king  has  a  message  to  convey  to  one  of  his  deceased  rela- 
tions, he  delivers  it  to  one  of  his  subjects,  then  strikes  oflf 
his  head,  that  he  may  carry  it  to  the  other  world ;  and  if 
any  thing  farther  occurs  to  him  after  he  has  performed  this 
ceremony,  he  delivers  it  to  another  messenger,  whom  he 
despatches  in  the  same  manner. 

Another  grand  object  of  this  periodical  festival  is  the 
market  for  wives.  All  the  unmarried  females  throughout 
the  kingdom  are  esteemed  the  property  of  the  sovereign, 
and  are  brought  to  the  annual  customs,  to  be  placed  at  his 
disposal.  He  selects  for  himself  such  as  appear  most  beau- 
tiful and  engaging,  and  retails  the  others  at  enormous 
prices  to  his  chiefs  and  nobles.  No  choice  on  this  occasion 
is  allowed  to  the  purchaser  ;  in  return  for  his  twenty  thou- 
sand cowries,  a  wife  is  handed  out,  and,  even  be  she  old 
and  ugly,  he  must  rest  contented ;  nay,  some,  it  is  said, 
have  in  mockery  been  presented  with  their  own  mothers. 
The  king  usually  keeps  his  wives  up  to  the  number  of  three 
thousand,  who  serve  him  in  various  capacities, — being 
partly  trained  to  act  as  a  body-guard,  regularly  regimented, 
and  equipped  with  drums,  flags,  bows  and  arrows,  while  a 
few  carry  muskets.  They  all  reside  in  the  palace,  which 
consists  merely  of  an  immense  assemblage  of  cane  and 
mud  tents,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall.  The  sculls  and  jaw- 
bones of  enemies  slain  in  battle  form  the  favourite  orna- 
ment of  the  palaces  and  temples.  The  king's  apartment  is 
paved,  and  the  walls  and  roof  stuck  over  with  these  horrid 
trophies ;  and  if  a  farther  supply  appears  desirable,  he 
announces  to  his  general  that  "  his  house  wants  thatch," 
wnen  a  war  for  that  purpose  is  immediately  undertaken. 


200  WESTERN  AFRICA* 

Mr.  M'Leod,  during  his  residence  at  Whidah,  in  1809 
found  the  country  still  groaning  under  the  cruel  effects  of 
Dahoman  tyranny.  He  particularly  deplores  the  case  of 
Sally  Abson,  daughter  of  the  late  English  governor  by  a 
native  female,  who,  trained  in  all  European  accomplish- 
ments, added  to  them  the  most  engaging  simplicity  of 
manners.  Suddenly,  she  disappeared,  and  Mr.  M'Leod's 
eager  inquiries  were  met  by  a  mysterious  silence  ;  all  hung 
down  their  heads,  confused  and  terrified.  At  length  an  ola 
domestic  whispered  to  him  that  a  party  of  the  king's  half- 
heads  (as  his  messengers  are  termed)  had  carried  her  off  in 
the  night,  to  be  enrolled  among  the  number  of  his  wives, 
and  warned  him  of  the  danger  of  uttering  a  word  of  com 
plaint. 

A  more  pleasing  spectacle  was  presented  to  Messrs.  Watt 
and  Winterbottom,  who,  in  1794,  ascended  the  Rio  Nunez 
to  Kakundy,  and  made  an  excursion  to  Foota  Jallo,  the 
principal  state  of  the  southern  Foulahs.  This  people  pro- 
fess the  Mohammedan  religion,  are  orderly  and  weU  in- 
structed, display  skill  in  working  mines  of  iron,  and  in  car- 
rying on  the  manufacture  of  cloth,  leather,  and  other  African 
fabrics.  Caravans  of  500  or  600  Foulahs  were  often  met, 
carrying  on  their  heads  loads  of  160  pounds  weight.  The 
article  chiefly  sought  after  is  salt,  which  the  children  suck  as 
ours  do  sugar  ;  and  it  is  common  to  describe  a  rich  man  by 
saying,  he  eats  salt,  The  two  principal  towns,  Laby  and 
Teemboo,  were  found  to  contain  respectively  5000  and  7000 
inhabitants.  The  king  could  muster  16,000  troops,  whom, 
unhappily,  he  employed  in  war,  or  at  least  hunts,  against 
twenty-four  pagan  nations  that  surround  his  territory, 
chiefly  with  the  view  of  procuring  slaves  for  the  market  on 
the  coast.  When  the  travellers  represented  to  him  the  ini- 
qui':y  of  this  course,  he  replied,  "  The  people  with  whom 
we  go  to  war  never  pray  to  God  ;  we  never  go  to  war  with 
people  who  pray  to  God  Almighty."  As  they  urged,  that 
in  a  case  of  common  humanity  this  ought  to  make  no  dis- 
tinction, he  quoted  passages  from  the  Koran  commanding 
the  faithful  to  make  war  on  unbelievers.  They  took  the 
liberty  to  insinuate  that  these  might  be  interpolations  of 
the  I)e^'il,  but  found  it  impossible  to  shake  his  reliance  on 
their  authenticity. 

A  more  recent  and  memorable  intercourse  was  that  opened 


ASHANTEE.  201 

with  the  court  of  Ashantee.  This  people  were  first  men- 
tioned, in  the  beginning  of  last  century,  under  the  name 
of  Assente  or  Asienti,  and  as  constituting  a  great  kingdom 
in  the  interior, — the  same  that  was  described  to  Mr.  Lucas, 
at  TripoU,  as  the  uUimate  destination  of  those  caravans 
which,  proceeding  from  that  city,  measure  the  breadth  of 
Africa.  Being  separated  from  the  maritime  districts,  how- 
ever, by  Aquamboc,  Dinkira,  and  other  powerful  states,  they 
did  not  come  inro  contact  with  any  European  settlement. 
It  was  not,  indeed,  till  the  commencement  of  this  century 
that  these  states  were  obliged  to  give  way  before  the  grow- 
ing strength  of  the  Ashantee  empire,  which  at  length  ex- 
tended to  the  borders  of  the  Fantees,  the  principal  people 
on  the  Gold  Coast.  These  last  were  ill  fitted  to  cope  with 
such  formidable  neighbours.  They  are  a  turbulent,  rest- 
less tribe,  and  extremely  prompt  in  giving  offence,  but  in 
battle  they  are  equally  cowardly  and  undisciplined.  The 
king  of  Ashantee  having,  not  unwillingly  perhaps,  re- 
ceived from  them  high  provocation,  sent,  in  1808,  an  army 
of  15,000  warriors,  which  entered  their  territory,  and  laid 
it  waste  with  fire  and  sword.  At  length  they  came  to 
Anamaboe,  where  the  Fantees  had  assembled  a  force  of 
9000  men  ;  but  these  were  routed  at  the  first  onset,  and 
put  to  death,  except  a  few  who  sought  the  protection  of  the 
British  fort.  The  victors,  then  considering  the  British  as 
allies  of  their  enemy,  turned  their  arms  against  the  station, 
at  that  time  defended  by  not  more  than  twelve  men.  Yet 
this  gallant  little  band,  supported  by  slender  bulwarks, 
completely  baffled  the  fierce  and  repeated  assaults  made  by 
this  barbarous  host,  who  were  repulsed  with  considerable 
slaughter.  Seized  with  admiration  and  respect  for  British 
prowess,  the  Ashantees  now  made  proposals  for  a  negotia- 
tion, which  were  accepted,  and  mutual  visits  were  paid 
and  returned.  The  English  ofllicers  were  peculiarly  struck 
with  the  splendid  array,  the  dignified  and  courteous  man- 
ners, and  even  the  just  moral  feeling,  displayed  by  these 
warlike  strangers.  They,  on  their  side,  expressed  an 
ardent  desire  to  open  a  communication  with  the  sea  and 
with  the  British,  complaining  that  the  turbulent  Fantees 
opposed  the  only  obstacle  to  so  desirable  a  purpose.  A 
treaty  was  concluded,  and  a  thoroughly  good  understanding 
teemed  established  between  the  two  nations.     The  Ashan- 


202 


WESTERN  AFRICA. 


tees,  however,  made  several  successful  incursions  in  1811 
and  1816  ;  and  on  the  last  occasion  the  Fantees  were 
obliged  to  own  their  supremacy,  and  engage  to  pay  an 
annual  tribute.  The  British  government  judiciously  kept 
aloof  from  these  feuds  ;  but  in  1817  a  mission  was  sent, 
under  Messrs.  James,  Bowdich,  and  Hutchinson,  to  visit  the 
capital  of  that  powerful  kingdom,  and  to  adjust  some  trifling 
dissensions  which  had  unavoidably  arisen. 

The  mission  having  set  out  on  the  22d  April,  1817,  passed 
over  a  country  covered,  in  a  great  measure,  with  immense 
and  overgrown  woods,  through  which  a  footpath  had  with 
difficulty  been  cut,  though  in  some  parts  it  presented  the 
most  beautiful  scenery.  Being  delayed  by  Mr.  James's  ill- 
ness, they  did  not  arrive  at  Coomassie,  the  capital,  till  the 
19th  May,  when  they  were  surprised  at  its  unexpected 
splendour.  It  was  four  miles  in  circumference,  built  not  in- 
deed with  European  elegance,  but  in  a  style  considerably 
superior  to  any  of  the  maritime  towns.  The  houses,  though 
low,  and  constructed  only  of  wood,  were  profusely  covered 


BOWDICH ASHANTEE.  203 

with  ornament  and  sculpture.  The  array  of  the  caboceers, 
or  gteat  war-chiefs,  was  at  once  brilliant,  dazzling,  and  wild. 
They  were  loaded  with  fine  cloths,  in  which  vafriously- 
coloured  threads  of  the  richest  foreign  silks  were  curiously 
interwoven  ;  and  both  themselves  and  their  horses  were  co- 
vered with  decorations  of  gold  beads,  Moorish  charms,  or 
amulets,  purchased  at  a  high  price,  and  the  whole  inter- 
mingled with  strings  of  human  teeth  and  bones.  Leopards' 
skins,  red  shells,  elephants'  tails,  eagle  and  ostrich  feathers, 
and  brass  bells  were  among  the  favourite  ornaments.  On 
being  introduced  to  the  king,  the  English  found  all  these 
embellishments  crowded  and  concentrated  on  his  own  per- 
son and  that  of  his  attendants,  who  were  literally  oppressed 
with  large  masses  of  solid  gold.  Even  the  most  common 
utensils  were  composed  of  that  metal.  At  the  same  time, 
the  executioner,  with  his  hatchet  on  his  breast,  and  the  ex- 
ecution-stool clotted  with  blood,  gave  a  thoroughly  savage 
character  to  all  this  pomp.  The  manners  of  the  king,  how- 
ever, were  marked  by  a  dignified  courtesy  ;  he  received  the 
strangers  cordially,  and  desired  them  to  come  and  speak  their 
palaver  in  the  market-place.  On  the  presents  being  carried 
to  the  palace,  he  expressed  high  satisfaction,  as  well  as 
great  admiration  of  the  English  workmanship.  After  seve- 
ral other  interviews,  he  entered  on  the  subjects  under  dis- 
cussion, which  related  to  some  annual  pa)rments  formerly 
made  to  the  Fantees  for  permission  to  erect  forts,  as  well  as 
for  the  ground  on  which  they  stood  ;  and  the  king  now  de- 
manded, as  conqueror  of  the  country,  that  these  payments 
should  be  transferred  to  himself.  The  claim  was  small,  and 
seems,  according  to  African  ideas,  to  have  been  reasonable  ; 
but  Mr.  James  thought  himself  bound  to  remain  intrenched 
in  the  rules  of  European  diplomacy,  and  simply  repHed,  that 
he  would  state  the  demand  to  the  governor  of  Cape  Coast. 
The  king  then  told  them  that  he  expected  they  had  come  to 
settle  all  palavers,  and  to  stay  and  be  friends  with  him  ;  but 
now  he  found  that  their  object  was  to  make  a  fool  of  him. 
Considering  himself  insulted,  he  broke  through  the  ceremo- 
nious politeness  which  he  had  before  studiously  maintained. 
He  called  out,"  The  white  men  join  with  the  Fantees  to  cheat 
me,  to  put  shame  upon  my  face."  Mr.  James  having  re- 
mained firm,  the  king  became  more  incensed,  and  exclaimed, 
•'  The  English  come  to  cheat  me ;  they  come  to  spy  tho 


204  WESTERN   AFRICA. 

country  ;  they  want  war,  they  want  war  !"  Mr.  James 
merely  rephed,  "  No  ;  we  want  trade  ;"  but  the  monarch's 
wrath  increased  to  such  a  degree,  that  he  started  from  his 
seat,  and  bit  his  beard,  calling  out,  "  Shantee  foo  !  Shanteo 
foo  !"  and  added,  "  If  a  black  man  had  brought  me  this  mes- 
sage, I  would  have  had  his  head  cut  off  before  me."  A  sin- 
fular  manoeuvre  now  took  place  in  the  diplomatic  party. 
h.  Bowdich,  with  two  junior  members,  conceiving  that 
Mr.  James's  too  rigid  adherence  to  rule  was  endangering 
the  preservation  of  peace  with  this  powerful  sovereign,  re- 
solved to  supersede  him,  and  undertake  the  charge  of  the 
negotiation.  They  conducted  it  entirely  to  the  satisfaction 
of  his  Ashantee  majesty,  who  concluded  a  treaty  with  the 
English,  and  even  made  a  proposal  of  sending  two  of  his 
sons  to  be  educated  at  Cape  Coast  Castle. 

During  their  stay  at  Coomassie,  the  commissioners  wit- 
nessed dreadful  scenes,  which  seem  to  sink  the  Ashantee 
character  even  below  the  ordinary  level  of  savage  life.  The 
customs,  or  human  sacrifices,  are  practised  on  a  scale  still 
more  tremendous  than  at  Dahomey.  The  king  had  lately 
sacrificed  on  the  grave  of  his  mother  3000  victims,  2000  of 
whom  were  Fantee  prisoners  ;  and  at  the  death  of  the  late 
sovereign  the  sacrifice  was  continued  weekly  for  three 
months,  consisting  each  time  of  two  hundred  slaves.  The 
absurd  belief  here  entertained  that  the  rank  of  the  deceased 
in  the  future  world  is  decided  by  the  train  which  he  carries 
along  with  him,  makes  filial  piety  interested  in  promoting 
by  this  means  the  exaltation  of  a  departed  parent.  On 
these  occasions,  the  caboceers  and  princes,  in  order  to  court 
royal  favour,  often  rush  out,  seize  the  first  person  they  meet, 
and  drag  him  in  for  sacrifice.  While  the  customs  last, 
therefore,  it  is  with  trembling  steps  that  any  one  crosses 
his  threshold  ;  and  when  compelled  to  do  so,  he  rushes  along 
with  the  utmost  speed,  dreading  every  instant  the  murder- 
ous grasp  which  would  consign  him  to  death. 

To  cultivate  the  good  understanding  now  established,  the 
British  government  very  judiciously  sent  out  M.  Dupuis, 
who,  during  his  residence  as  consul  at  Mogadore,  had  ac- 
quired a  great  knowledge  of  Africa  and  its  people.  But, 
before  his  arrival,  the  ardour  of  their  mutual  aflfection  had 
been  cooled  by  the  intervention  of  some  clouds,  which  he 
bad  set  out  in  the  hope  of  dispelling.    This  mission,  which 


DUPUIS ^ASHANTEE.  205 

arrived  at  Coomassie  early  in  1820,  was  well  conducted, 
and  succeeded  in  its  object.  The  king  renewed,  in  the 
most  ample  measure,  his  professions  of  desire  to  cultivate 
a  friendly  intercourse  with  the  British  nation  ;  withdrew 
such  of  his  demands  as  were  shown  to  be  inadmissible ; 
ind  while  he  claimed  full  dominion  over  the  coast,  agreed 
that  the  English  should  exercise  jurisdiction  within,  and 
even  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their  own  forts. 

M.  Dupuis  found  this  monarch  deeply  impressed  with 
respect  for  white  men,  and  also  with  a  desire  to  imitate 
hnd  rival  the  pomp  of  European  kings.  He  was  erecting 
a  palace,  the  outside  of  which  consisted  only  of  large  logs  of 
timber;  but  the  interior  was  to  be  adorned  with  brass, 
ivory,  and  gold.  He  said,  "  Now  white  men  know  me,  I 
must  live  in  a  great  house  as  white  kings  do ;  then  I  shall 
not  be  ashamed  when  white  people  come  ;*' — and  on  an- 
other occasion,  "  I  must  have  every  thing  suitable,  and  live 
like  a  white  king."  He  had  procured  architects  from  El- 
mina  to  give  instructions  to  his  own  subjects,  who,  how- 
ever, performed  the  task  in  so  awkward  a  manner,  that  he 
himself  laughed  at  them,  exclaiming,  "Ashantees  fools 
at  work."  But  the  want  of  skill  was  compensated  by  their 
numbers ;  and  while  engaged  at  work,  they  suggested  to 
M.  Dupuis  the  singular  image  of  a  legion  of  devils  attempt- 
ing to  construct  a  tower  of  Babel. 

The  envoy  had  the  unhappiness  of  being  resident  during 
the  "  Little  Adai  Custom,"  as  it  was  called,  and  under- 
stood that  in  one  day  upwards  of  seventy  victims  had  been 
sacrificed  in  the  palace  alone.  He  was  not  present ;  but 
waiting  on  the  king  immediately  after,  saw  his  clothes 
stained  with  blood,  the  royal  death-stool  yet  reeking,  va- 
rious amulets  steeped  in  gore,  while  a  spot  on  the  brow  of 
his  majesty  and  his  principal  chiefs  indicated  the  work  in 
which  they  had  been  engaged. 

The  govenmient  of  Cape  Coast  Castle  unfortunately  did 
not  ratify  the  treaty  concluded  by  M.  Dupuis,  but  under- 
took to  support  the  Fantees  in  an  attempt  to  throw  off  the 
Ashantee  yoke.  They  were  thus  involved  in  hostilities 
with  the  latter  people,  whose  sovereign,  in  January,  1824, 
entered  Fantee  with  a  force  of  15,000  men.  Sir  Charles 
M'Carthy,  newly  appointed  governor,  being  ill-informed 
..s  to  the  strength  of  the)  enemy,  marched  out  to  meet  him 
S 


206  WESTERN  AFRICA. 

with  a  force  of  scarcely  a  thousand  British,  supported  by  a 
crowd  of  cowardly  and  undisciplined  auxiliaries.  The  two 
armies  met  near  the  boundary  stream  of  the  Bossompra, 
■where  the  English,  soon  deserted  by  their  native  allies  in 
whose  cause  they  had  taken  the  lield,  maintained  the  con- 
test for  some  time  with  characteristic  valour,  till  it  was 
discovered,  that  through  the  negligence  of  the  ordnance- 
keeper,  the  supply  of  powder  was  entirely  exhausted. 
Thus  deprived  of  the  use  of  firearms,  they  were  surrounded 
by  the  immensely  superior  numbers  of  a  warlike  and  des* 
perate  enemy,  and  after  a  fearful  contest,  the  particulars  of 
which  never  fully  transpired,  the  whole  army  either  pe- 
rished on  the  field,  or  underwent  the  more  cruel  fate  of 
captivity  in  the  hands  of  this  merciless  foe.  Only  three 
officers,  all  of  whom  were  wounded,  brought  the  dreadful 
tale  to  Cape  Coast  Castle.  The  Ashantees  then  overran 
the  whole  open  country,  laid  siege  to  the  castle,  and  pressed 
it  closely  for  some  months.  Being  repeatedly  checked, 
however,  and  suffering  under  sickness  and  want  of  provi- 
sions, they  retreated  into  their  own  country ;  nor  has  the 
king,  distracted  by  the  rebellion  of  some  neighbouring 
states,  ever  since  attempted  to  march  down  upon  the  coast. 
\  Captain  Adams,  in  the  course  of  a  trading  voyage  along 
the  African  shore,  visited  Benin,  the  capital  of  which  is 
situated  on  a  river  coming  from  the  north-east.  The  city  is 
large,  apparently  containing  about  15,000  inhabitants,  and 
surrounded  by  a  country  extremely  fertile,  but  not  highly 
cultivated.  The  king  of  Benin  is  Fetiche, — worshipped  by 
his  subjects  as  a  god,  and  must  not  on  any  account  be  sup- 
posed either  to  eat  or  sleep.  Heresy  against  this  creed  is 
punished  in  the  most  prompt  and  summary  manner,  by 
instantly  striking  off  the  head  of  the  unbeliever.  With  all 
his  divine  and  royal  attributes,  however,  the  king  does  not 
disdain  the  occupation  of  a  merchant,  and  drives  a  hard  bar- 
gain while  exchanging  slaves  and  ivory  for  tobacco,  which 
is  a  favourite  luxury  in  this  part  of  Africa.  He  is  very  ac- 
cessible to  strangers,  provided  they  spread  before  him  as  a 
present  a  handsome  piece  of  red  silk  damask.  Human  sa- 
crifices are  not  practised  to  the  same  dreadful  extent  as  in 
Bome  other  parts  of  Africa  ;  yet  a  considerable  number  are 
offered  on  the  graves  of  their  great  men,  and  four  annually 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  as  an  amulet  to  attract  vessels. 


SOUTHERN  AFRICA.  207 

but  such  is  the  pestilential  character  of  the  climate,  that 
this  bloody  charm  brings  now  comparatively  few  slave-mer- 
chants to  Benin. 

Captain  Adams  ascended  also  to  Waree,  an  insular  terri- 
tory, enclosed  by  two  branches  of  another  stream  flowing 
through  this  alluvial  district.  It  is  beautiful  as  well  as  fer- 
tile, is  about  five  miles  in  circuit,  and  appears  as  if  it  had 
dropped  down  from  the  clouds ;  for  all  the  surrounding 
shores  consist  of  an  unpenetrable  forest,  rising  out  of  a 
swamp.  Even  in  the  dry  season  the  water  stands  on  the 
ground  a  foot  in  depth,  producing  exhalations  which  prove 
excessively  destructive  to  the  European  constitution,  as  well 
as  to  all  the  more  delicate  plants  and  animals  that  happen 
to  be  removed  from  the  drier  soils  of  the  interior.  In  other 
respects,  this  intelligent  navigator  did  not  make  any  mate- 
rial addition  to  the  knowledge  of  Western  Africa  previously 
derived  from  other  sources. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Southern  and  Eastern  Africa. 

The  southern  extremity  of  Africa  has  long  attracted  the 
particular  attention  of  modem  navigators.  To  pass  this 
mighty  cape  formed  the  main  object  of  ambition  with  the 
Portuguese  in  their  celebrated  voyages  of  discovery  along 
the  African  coast.  After  almost  a  century  had  been  spent 
in  successive  endeavours  to  accomplish  that  undertaking, 
Diaz  obtained  a  view  of  this  great  promontory  ;  but  the 
stormy  sky  in  which  it  was  enveloped,  and  the  fearful  swell 
produced  by  the  conflict  of  the  contending  oceans,  appalled 
even  that  stout  navigator.  He  named  it  the  Cape  of  Tem- 
pests, and  immediately  returned  with  his  shattered  barks  to 
Portugal.  The  king,  with  a  bolder  spirit,  substituted  forth- 
with the  name  of  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  it  has  ever 
(since  retained ;  yet  some  years  elapsed  before  the  daring 
»ails  of  Gama  rounded  this  formidable  barrier,  and  bora 
♦cross  the  ocean  to  the  golden  shores  of  India. 

The  Portuguese,  engrossed  by  the  discovery  and  conquest 


1^08  SOrTHERN  AFRICA. 

of  the  kingdoms  of  the  East,  and  busied  in  lading  their  ves- 
sels with  the  produce  of  those  vast  and  opulent  regions, 
scarcely  deigned  to  cast  an  eye  on  the  rude  border  of  South- 
em  Africa,  its  terraces  of  granite,  its  naked  Karroo  plains, 
or  the  filthy  and  miserable  kraals  of  the  Hottentot.  Their 
fleets,  indeed,  stopped  occasionally  for  water  and  refresh- 
ments ;  but  no  attempts  were  made  to  occupy,  and  still  less 
to  colonize,  this  barren  and  unpromising  country. 

The  Dutch,  a  prudent  and  calculating  people,  having 
pushed  their  way  into  the  Indian  seas,  where  they  first 
rivalled  and  then  supplanted  the  Portuguese,  were  not  long 
in  discovering  the  important  advantage  that  might  be  de- 
rived from  the  Cape  as  a  naval  station.  In  1650,  they 
founded  Cape  Town, — a  step  which  led  to  farther  improve- 
ment ;  for  it  thereby  became  necessary  that  supplies  of  gram 
and  provisions  should  be  drawn  from  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. When,  moreover,  it  was  discovered  that  on  some 
neighbouring  hills  the  vine  could  be  reared  in  high  perfec- 
tion, a  new  value  was  stamped  upon  the  settlement.  The 
natives,  not  then  destitute  of  bravery,  but  ill-armed,  undis- 
ciplined, and  disunited,  were  easily  driven  back  by  the  colo- 
nists, or  reduced  to  an  almost  complete  and  hopeless  bond- 
age ;  and  hence  the  country,  for  several  hundred  miles  in 
every  direction,  so  far  as  it  afforded  any  herbage,  was  soon 
covered  with  extensive  grazing  farms  under  Dutch  masters. 

Peter  Kolben,  who  resided  some  years  at  the  Cape,  pub- 
lished a  narrative,  which,  though  it  be  liable  to  a  few  excep- 
tions, gives  us  by  far  the  fullest  account  of  the  Hottentots, 
before  that  race  was  completely  weighed  down  by  Euro- 
pean oppression.  This  unfortunate  tribe  has  become  noted 
and  almost  proverbial  for  presenting  man  in  his  lowest  es- 
tate, and  under  the  closest  alliance  with  the  inferior  orders 
of  creation.  It  must,  indeed,  be  admitted,  that  they  take 
particular  pains  to  render  their  external  appearance  the 
most  hideous  that  the  human  body  can  possibly  present. 
Grease  is  poured  over  their  persons  in  copious  streams, 
which,  being  exposed  to  the  perpetual  action  of  smoke,  forms 
on  their  skin  a  black  and  shining  cake,  through  which  the 
native  colour,  a  yellowish  brown,  is  scarcely  ever  percepti- 
ble. Grease  in  Africa  forms  the  chief  distinction  of  rank,— 
the  rich  besmearing  themselves  with  fresh  butter,  while  the 
poorer  classes  are  obliged  to  tear  the  fa^  from  the  bowels  cf 


KOLBEN.  209' 

riaughJtered  animals.  They  assign  as  a  reason  for  this  sin" 
gular  practice  an  effect  which  has  been  readily  admitted  by 
judicious  travellers,  namely,  that  such  a  coating  has  in  this 
climate  a  most  salutary  influence  in  defending  them  from 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  in  averting  many  cutaneous  dis- 
orders. Nature  seems  to  have  aided  the  task  of  disfiguring 
them,  by  covering  the  head  with  irregular  tufts  of  hard  and 
coarse  hair,  and  causing  singular  prominences,  composed 
of  fat,  to  jut  out  in  parts  where  they  are  least  ornamental. 
Nor  do  their  habits  of  life  present  any  thing  to  redeem  this 
outward  deformity.  Their  kraals  consist  of  a  confused 
crowd  of  little  conical  hovels,  composed  of  twigs  and  earth, 
in  which  large  families  sit  and  sleep,  without  having  room 
to  stand  upright.  The  fire  in  the  middle  fills  these  man- 
sions with  thick  smoke,  the  floors  of  which  are  deeply  co- 
vered with  every  species  of  filth.  At  festivals,  when  an  ox 
or  a  sheep  is  killed,  the  Hottentots  rip  open  the  belly,  tear 
out  the  entrails,  which  they  throw  on  the  coals,  and  feast  on 
them  before  the  animal  is  completely  dead.  Yet  they  are  a 
friendly,  merry,  hospitable  race,  living  together  in  the  great- 
est affection  and  harmony.  The  sluggish  and  senseless 
stupidity  with  which  they  have  been  so  generally  taxed, 
seems  to  have  been  in  a  great  measure  produced  by  their 
degrading  subjection  to  the  Dutch  boors.  In  their  free 
state  they  had  a  republican  form  of  polity,  and  konquers  or 
captains  of  the  kraal,  who  led  them  to  war,  which  they  car- 
ried on  with  extreme  fury.  This  commander  usually  sounded  a 
pipe  or  flageolet,  during  which  his  men  fought  without  in- 
termission ;  but  as  soon  as  the  music  ceased  they  began  to 
retreat.  The  Hottentots  direct  their  darts  and  throwing- 
sticks  with  a  sure  aim,  surround  and  attack  wild  animals 
with  skill  and  vigour,  and  evade  their  springs  with  a  dexte- 
rity which  no  European  can  equal.  They  tan,  dress,  and 
shape  skins  ;  make  mats  of  flags  and  bulrushes ;  also  twist 
strings  for  their  bows  out  of  the  sinews  of  animals  ;  and 
even  mould  iron  into  cutting  instruments  with  considerable 
expertness.  In  their  free  and  happy  state,  they  displayed 
the  same  passion  for  the  dance  and  song  which  is  general 
throughout  Africa.  A  heavy  reproach  lies  upon  this  race, 
as  being  destitute  of  all  ideas  of  religion  ;  and  the  atheist 
has  even  boasted  of  them  as  an  exception  to  that  universal  be- 
lief of  mankind,  which  is  urged  against  his  unnatural  tenet. 


210  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

Supposing  this  assertion  correct,  such  ignorance,  whicll 
must  have  sprung  from  profound  and  stupid  apathy,  could 
not  form  any  high  authority  on  a  subject  so  abstruse.  But 
the  fact  itself,  as  in  evej-y  similar  case,  has  vanished  before 
the  light  of  more  accurate  observation.  The  Hottentot  had 
neither  temples,  images,  nor  the  pomp  of  a  regular  priest- 
hood ;  but  he  believed  in  a  supreme  good  Being,  whom  he 
viewed  with  distant  adoration,  and  also  in  a  little  deformed 
and  malignant  power,  whom  he  sought  to  pacify  by  gifts 
and  sacrifices.  He  had  the  usual  superstitions  of  unen- 
lightened men,  hailing  the  new  and  full  moon  not  only  by 
offerings,  but  by  shouts,  cries,  and  dances,  prolonged 
throughout  the  night.  He  attached  a  sacred  character  to 
certain  woods,  hills,  and  rivers,  which  he  supposed  haunted 
by  departed  friends  or  by  the  spirits  of  the  ancient  heroes 
of  his  tribe.  Lastly,  to  come  to  the  very  lowest,  the  Hot- 
tentots had  a  little  shining  beetle  which  they  had  exalted 
almost  into  a  deity. 

About  the  close  of  the  last  century,  Southern  Africa  ex- 
cited a  particular  interest  among  the  lovers  of  natural  his- 
tory, from  the  brilliancy  of  its  floral  productions,  and  from 
those  remarkable  forms  of  the    animal  kingdom,  which, 
though  generally  diffused  over  that   continent,  could   be 
most  safely  and  easily  studied  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cape. 
In  1778,  Captain  Henry  Hope,  who,  under  the  authority 
of  the  Dutch  government,  had  penetrated  into  the  interior 
of  the  colony  with  a  caravan  of  eighty-nine  persons,  pub- 
lished at  Amsterdam  a  work  containing  plates  of  the  giraffe 
or  camelopard,  the  zebra,  the  hippopotamus,  the  gnu,  and 
other  animals  then  almost  unknown   in  Europe.      Soon 
after,  the  whole  region  was  carefully  surveyed  by  two  emi- 
nent naturalists,  first  Sparrman,  and  then  Le  Vaillant, — 
the  one  distinguished  by  sound  sense  and  accurate  observa- 
tion, the  other  by  the  splendid  colouring  which  he  suc- 
ceeded in  throwing  over  the  narrative  of  his  personal  ad- 
ventures.    These  travellers  viewed  with   admiration   the 
elegant  forms  of  the  giraffe  and  the  zebra,  the  light  shape 
and  bright  eye  of  the  spring-bok,  the  most  beautiful  of  an- 
telopes, and  of  which  herds  were  seen  covering  these  de- 
sert plains  as  far  as  the  eye  could   reach.     They  were 
struck  also  with  tlie  odd  shapes  of  the  gnu  and  the  quagga, 
combining  as  it  were,  the  most  opposite  natures.     Sparr- 


BARROW.  211 

man's  hunts  were  not  very  successful :  he  gave  chase  re- 
peatedly to  the  gnu  ;  but  that  animal,  by  its  swift  bounds, 
eluded  pursuit.  Herds  of  zebras  were  seen  only  at  a  dis- 
tance ;  and  of  all  the  hippopotami  which  he  attacked,  he 
could  carry  off  only  one,  three  weeks  old.  He  made  a  full 
examination,  however,  of  the  rhinoceros  and  the  quagga, 
and  brought  to  Europe  the  first  precise  account  of  that 
wonderful  and  destructive  insect,  the  termes  or  white  ant. 
Le  Vaillant,  more  fortunate,  conveyed  to  France  the  skin 
of  the  giraffe,  as  well  as  that  of  a  full-grown  hippopo- 
tamus. He  brought  also  a  rich  collection  of  birds,  and 
many  specimens  of  those  beautiful  and  flowering  shrubs 
which  spring  up  only  amid  the  sands  of  the  African  desert. 

Mr.  Barrow,  who,  in  1797,  while  private  secretary  to 
Lord  Macartney,  made  a  tour  through  the  Cape  territory, 
communicated  more  important  information  than  any  of  his 
predecessors,  and  exhibited  for  the  first  time  a  view  of  the 
social  condition  of  this  remote  colony.  He  found  the  Hot- 
tentots reduced  almost  universally  to  the  condition  of 
slaves,  not  transferable  indeed,  but  attached  to  the  soil,  and 
not  on  that  account  the  better  treated.  Frequent  use  is 
made  of  a  heavy  leathern  thong,  the  lashes  inflicted  with 
which  are  measured  not  by  number  but  time.  Connecting 
this  punishment  with  his  favourite  luxury,  the  Dutchman 
orders  the  flogging  of  the  culprit  to  continue  while  he  him- 
self smokes  a  certain  number  of  pipes.  Even  when  a  Hot- 
tentot engages  for  hire,  the  children  born  during  this  pe- 
riod of  service  are  destined  to  become  slaves.  Nothing,  in 
short,  can  more  fully  prove  the  cruel  treatment  of  this  un- 
fortunate race,  than  the  fact,  that  they  do  not  keep  up  their 
numbers,  but  are  gradually  disappearing  :  at  present  there 
are  not  supposed  to  be  more  than  15,000  in  the  colony. 
The  few  kraals  of  independent  Hottentots,  which  still  re- 
main on  its  outer  border,  may  perhaps  amount  to  10,000. 

The  Dutch  planters  or  boors  occupy  lots  of  considerable 
extent,  reaching  usually  to  the  extent  of  some  miles  in 
every  direction  ;  yet  the  nearest  neighbours  are  engaged  in 
almost  constant  feuds  respecting  the  boundaries  of  these 
vast  possessions.  Their  dissensions  must  doubtless  be 
greatly  fomented  by  the  mode  of  measuring  land  according 
to  the  number  of  steps  employed  in  walking  over  it.  There 
ia  indeed  an  official  pacer  {felt-wagt-meestcr)i  who  receivei 


212  SOUTHERN  AFRICA 

three  dollars  for  every  perambulation ;  but  this  survey  must 
always  be  more  or  less  vague  ;  and  he  is  alleged  sometimes 
to  take  partiiil  steps  in  support  of  a  favourite  claimant. 
The  boor,  absolute  master  of  these  vs'ide  domains,  covers 
them  with  flocks  and  herds,  the  care  of  which  he  commits 
to  his  Hottentots, — obtaining  thus  the  entire  disposal  of  his 
ovm.  time,  which  he  devotes  to  the  most  listless  indolence. 
He  makes  neither  milk  nor  butter ;  nor  does  he  produce 
either  wine,  fruits,  or  vegetables.  The  pipe  never  quits 
his  mouth,  except  to  take  his  sojiie  or  glass  of  brandy,  and 
to  eat  three  meals  of  mutton  soaked  in  the  fat  of  the 
large-tailed  sheep,  without  vegetables  or  even  bread.  The 
good  lady  of  the  house,  equally  disdainful  of  toil,  remains 
almost  as  immoveable  as  the  chair  on  which  she  sits,  hav- 
ing before  her  a  table,  always  covered  with  hot  coffee.  The 
daughters  sit  round  with  their  hands  folded,  resembling  ar- 
ticles of  furniture  rather  than  youthful  and  living  beings. 
No  diversion,  no  event,  breaks  the  monotony  of  this  insu- 
lated existence  ;  nor  does  knowledge  for  them  ever  "  unrol 
her  ample  page."  A  schoolmaster,  indeed,  usually  forms 
part  of  the  establishment ;  but  as  it  is  thought  too  much  to 
maintain  one  for  teaching  only,  he  is  expected  to  make 
himself  useful  in  sundry  other  capacities.  Mr.  Barrow 
even  saw  one  of  this  learned  fraternity  yoked  in  a  plough. 
Amid  such  varied  avocations,  these  sage  instructers  cannot 
be  expected  to  convey  to  their  pupils  more  than  the  mere 
elements  of  reading  and  writing.  At  the  same  time,  hospi- 
tality knows  scarcely  any  limits.  With  the  exception  of 
their  nearest  neighbours,  with  whom  they  are  probably  in- 
volved in  boundary  feuds,  any  person,  from  any  quarter,  is 
welcome.  The  stranger  opens  the  door,  shakes  hands 
with  the  master,  kisses  the  mistress,  sits  down,  and  makes 
himself  completely  at  home. 

From  Graaf-Reynet,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  co- 
lony, Mr.  Barrow  pushed  forward  without  delay  to  the 
country  of  the  CaflTres,  it  being  one  main  object  of  his  journey 
to  adjust  some  differences  between  that  people  and  the  Eu- 
ropean settlers.  The  first  party  he  met  after  passing  the 
boundary  made  the  most  favourable  impression  upon  him. 
The  females  flocked  and  danced  round  the  strangers,  show- 
ing the  utmost  curiosity,  and  receiving  with  delight  pre- 
sents of  tobacco  and  brass  buttons,  yet  never  trespassing 


BARROW.  213 

»"r\  tho  limits  of  decorum.  Their  persons  were  somewhat 
short  and  stunted,  and  the  skin  of  a  dark  glossy  brown  ; 
but  the  features  were  almost  European,  and  their  dark 
sparkling  eyes  bespoke  A^vacity  and  intelligence.  The 
men,  again,  were  the  finest  figures  that  the  traveller  had 
ever  seen,  considerably  above  the  middle  size,  robust,  and 
muscular,  yet  marked  with  the  most  elegant  symmetry. 
Their  deportment  was  easy,  and  their  expression  frank, 
generous,  and  fearless.  In  reply  to  the  complaints  which 
were  made  of  their  encroachments  upon  the  territory  of  the 
colony,  they  asserted,  and  seemed  to  prove,  that  much 
greater  encroachments  had  been  made  by  the  colonists 
themselves,  and  expressed  their  readiness  to  accede  to  any 
arrangement  which  might  obviate  future  dissension, — stat- 
ing, however,  that  nothing  could  be  done  but  through  Gaika, 
the  great  king  of  the  CaflTres.  The  umpires  immediately 
proceeded  towards  his  residence,  through  a  beautiful,  but 
uncultivated,  and  somewhat  entangled  country.  He  was 
absent  at  the  moment,  employed  in  pursuing  a  band  of 
wolves  ;  but  his  wife  and  mother,  with  fifty  or  sixty  at- 
tendants, sat  round  the  strangers,  and  conversed,  through 
an  interpreter,  in  the  most  agreeable  manner.  At  length 
the  monarch  was  seen  approaching  at  full  gallop,  mounted 
on  a  handsome  ox.  Alighting  from  this  singular  charger, 
he  graciously  welcomed  the  strangers,  and  seating  himself 
and  his  attendants  under  the  shade  of  a  mimosa,  imme  • 
diately  entered  upon  business.  He  showed  himself  ex- 
tremely reasonable  in  every  respect,  declaring,  that  what- 
ever inroads  had  taken  place  on  the  frontier  were  without 
his  knowledge  or  sanction,  and  he  agreed  at  once  to  a  code 
of  regulations  which  might  put  an  end  to  future  aggression. 
It  seems  probable,  indeed,  that  had  the  wise  and  conciliatory 
measures  which  Mr.  Barrow  suggested  been  steadily  ad- 
hered to,  all  collision  might  have  been  avoided  with  this 
manly  and  warlike  race. 

The  Caffres  are  perhaps  the  most  completely  pastoral 
people  in  existence.  Their  agriculture  is  very  limited, 
owing  to  their  roaming  mode  of  life.  Game  is  scarce,  and 
they  make  no  use  of  their  extensive  line  of  seacoast  for 
fishing ;  but  the  management  of  cattle  is  thoroughly  un- 
derstood, being  carried  on  by  the  men,  who  not  only  tend 
but  milk  the  cows,  and  who,  by  a  particular  modulation  of 


214  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

the  voice,  send  out  a  herd  to  graze,  or  recall  it  at  pleasure 
to  the  enclosures.  A  cow  is  never  killed  but  on  high  occa- 
sions, milk,  with  roots,  forming  their  standard  diet.  Skill 
is  shown  in  several  arts,  such  as  making  baskets  of  grass, 
sharpening  iron  by  stones,  without  being  able  to  smelt  it, 
and  dressing  calf-skins  for  their  apparel.  Polygamy  is 
lawful ;  but  as  a  wife  costs  an  ox,  or  two  cows,  the  practice 
is  confined  to  the  rich. 

After  returning  to  Graaf-Reynet,  Mr.  Barrow  passed  across 
the  Great  Karroo,  or  desert,  covered  with  scanty  and  useless 
vegetation,  yet  presenting  spring-boks,  ostriches,  and  other 
"wild  animals,  which  roam  in  large  herds,  and  the  most 
beautiful  flowers,  which  spring  up  amid  the  sand.  He  then 
came  to  the  borders  of  the  Sneuwberg,  or  Snowy  Moun- 
tains, the  streams  from  which  cover  an  extensive  district 
with  luxuriant  herbage.  The  colonists  there  are  kept  in  a 
state  of  greater  activity  than  elsewhere,  by  the  dread  of 
wild  beasts,  and  of  the  still  wilder  race  of  Bosjesman  Hot- 
tentots, whose  kraals  occupy  the  intermediate  valle3's. 
They  pursue  and  hunt  down  these  unhappy  creatures,  as 
if  they  were  the  natural  enemies  of  the  human  race.  Mr. 
Barrow  mentions  a  young  fellow  who  had  made  a  journey 
along  part  of  that  mountain-range  ;  and  on  his  return,  being 
asked  if  he  had  seen  many  Bosjesmans,  replied,  with  a 
disappointed  air,  that  he  had  only  shot  four.  These  savages, 
in  their  turn,  carry  off  all  the  cattle  they  can  find,  and  put 
to  a  cruel  death  every  one  who  falls  into  their  hands,  whe- 
ther he  be  Dutch  or  Hottentot.  Each  party  throws  upon 
the  other  the  blame  of  this  mutual  hostiUty.  Mr.  Barrow 
took  some  pains  to  acquire  information  respecting  that  un- 
fortunate race.  His  party  having  succeeded  in  surprising  a 
kraal,  the  natives  sprung  out  of  their  little  mat-huts  with 
cries  resembling  the  war-whoop  of  savages,  and  flew  to  the 
top  of  a  neighbouring  hill.  From  inveterate  habit  it  was 
impossible  to  prevent  some  bloodshed ;  but  .it  length,  by 
persevering  kindness,  several  were  induced  to  come  for- 
ward and  hold  communication  with  the  English.  They 
proved  to  be  the  ugliest  of  human  beings.  Their  hollow 
backs,  projecting  bellies,  and  prominent  posteriors,  caused 
the  body  to  assume  nearly  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  which, 
though  by  some  painters  described  as  constituting  the  line 
of  beauty,  produces,  in  its  application  to  the  human  shape, 


TRUTTER  AND  SOMERVILLE,        216 

an  effect  very  strikingly  the  reverse.  In  their  condition, 
too,  they  are,  of  all  rational  beings,  perhaps  the  most  for- 
lorn and  v^rretched.  Their  only  mode  of  obtaining  food  is  by 
scrambling  over  the  rocks  after  wild  animals,  digging  the 
earth  for  some  unsavoury  roots,  devouring  the  larvae  of 
ants  and  locusts,  and,  finally,  in  wild  foray,  carrying  off 
the  cattle  from  the  adjoining  plains.  Yet  the  habits  arising 
from  this  precarious  subsistence  create  a  degree  of  energy 
which  does  not  arise  when  man  slumbers  in  the  lap  of  ease 
and  abundance.  Hence,  this  people  indulge  even  in  an  ex- 
travagant gayety,  which  fonus  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
gloomy  dejection  of  the  enslaved  Hottentots.  On  moon- 
light nights  they  dance  without  intermission  from  sunset 
till  dawn  ;  and,  on  the  prospect  of  fine  weather,  sometimes 
continue  this  exercise  for  several  days  and  nights.  Their 
little  arrows,  tipped  with  poison,  are  shot  with  surprising  dex- 
terity ;  and  the  warriors  bound  from  rock  to  rock  with  an 
agility  which  baffles  all  European  pu'ihuit.  They  endure  long 
fasts,  which  render  their  bodies  usually  very  lank  and  meager ; 
but  when  they  make  a  capture  of  cattle  or  sheep,  they 
devour  the  flesh  in  a  disgusting  manner,  and  in  the  most 
amazing  quantities.  Mr.  Barrow  having  given  to  three  of 
Ihem  a  sheep  about  five  in  the  evening,  saw  it  entirely  con- 
sumed by  twelve  next  day,  when  their  formerly  lank,  lean 
bellies  were  distended  to  an  extraordinary  size.  The  pic- 
tures of  animals,  drawn  on  the  rocks  with  no  inconsiderable 
spirit  and  correctness,  showed  at  least  the  rudiments  of  art 
and  talent. 

The  knowledge  of  Europeans  respecting  the  Cape  terri- 
tory had  hitherto  been  confined  by  the  Karroo  Desert,  and 
the  formidable  range  of  the  Sneuwberg  beyond  it.  In 
1801,  a  scarcity  of  cattle  being  felt,  Messrs.  Trutter  and 
Somerville  undertook  an  expedition,  with  the  view  of  ob- 
taining a  supply  in  some  of  the  more  remote*  districts. 
Having  passed  the  Snow  mountain  and  the  country  of  the 
Bosjesmans,  they  came  to  the  Orange  river,  a  broad  stream 
flowing  westward  to  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the  banks  of  which 
were  the  Koras  or  Koranas,  a  pastoral  people  with  numerous 
herds.  The  information  here  received  induced  them  to 
proceed  into  the  country  of  the  Boshuanas,  which  continued 
to  improve  as  they  advanced,  till,  to  their  utter  surprise,  in 
the  midst  of  these  savage  wildernesses  of  &outhem  Afirioa, 


216  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

tney  found  a  regular  city.  Lattakoo  was  composed  of  two 
or  three  thousand  houses,  neatly  and  commodiously  built, 
well  enclosed  and  shaded  from  the  sun  by  spreading 
branches  of  the  mimosa.  The  country  around  was  not 
only  covered  with  numerous  herds,  but  showed  considerable 
signs  of  cultivation.  The  king,  a  venerable  old  man,  in- 
vited them  to  his  house,  and  introduced  them  to  his  two 
wives.  The  travellers  met  every  where  a  kind  and  hos- 
pitable reception,  and  were  the  objects  of  an  eager  but 
friendly  curiosity.  Their  report,  in  fact,  encouraged  the 
idea  that  the  golden  age  had  once  more  revived  in  the 
centre  of  Africa. 

The  Cape  government  afterward  undertook  to  follow  up 
this  discovery.  Lord  Caledon  sent  Dr.  Cowan  and  Lieu- 
tenant Denovan,  at  the  head  of  a  party  of  twenty  men,  with 
instructions  to  strike  across  the  continent  in  a  south-eastern 
direction,  and  by  endp-^vouring  to  reach  Mozambique,  to 
connect  the  two  great  f-oints  of  African  geography.  The 
travellers  passed  La'^cakoo,  and  accounts  were  received 
from  them  nearly  eleven  days'  journey  beyond  it,  when  they 
were  in  the  midst  of  a  richer  and  more  beautiful  country 
than  they  had  yet  seen  in  Southern  Africa.  A  long  and 
anxious  interval  had  elapsed,  when  the  governor  sent  a  fast- 
sailing  vessel  to  Sofala  and  Mozambique,  the  captain  of 
which  was  informed  that  the  expedition  had  come  to  a  most 
disastrous  issue.  It  was  stated  that  the  party,  having  ar- 
rived in  the  dominions  of  the  king  of  Zaire,  between  Inham- 
bane  and  Sofala,  had  been  attacked  in  the  night,  and  all  cut 
to  pieces,  with  the  exception  of  two  individuals.  Mr- 
Campbell  was  afterward  assured,  that  the  catastrophe  had 
taken  place  among  the  Wanketzens,  a  nation  immediately 
beyond  Lattakoo,  where  the  travellers,  trusting  to  the 
friendly  behaviour  and  professions  of  the  people,  had  ne- 
glected the  most  common  precautions.  The  officers  went 
to  bathe,  leaving  one  party  in  charge  of  the  wagons,  and 
another  to  guard  the  cattle.  Thus  spUt  into  three  divisions, 
they  were  successively  attacked  and  destroyed  by  the  trea 
cherous  barbarians. 

Dr.  Henry  Lichtenstein,  after  surveying  several  of  the 
Cape  districts,  extended  his  journey  to  the  territory  of  this 
newly-discovered  people,  accompanied  by  one  of  the  natives, 
named  Kok,  who  had  been  for  some  time  absent  from  his 


LICHTENSTEIN.  217 

country.  The  first  party  whom  they  met  accosted  them 
with  such  demonstrations  of  kindness  and  cordiality,  as 
impressed  our  traveller  with  the  most  favourable  opinion 
of  their  character,  and  relieved  some  apprehensions  under 
which  he  had  laboured.  The  inhabitants,  too,  of  the  first 
village  at  which  they  arrived  received  them  in  a  manner 
quite  frank  and  hospitable,  though  they  showed  rather  an 
excessive  eagerness  to  obtain  a  supply  of  tobacco.  Cross- 
ing the  river  Kuruhman,  and  proceeding  by  a  winding  path 
through  a  noble  forest,  they  reached  Lattakoo.  The  cu- 
riosity excited  by  their  arrival  soon  attracted  a  crowd  so 
immense,  as  to  make  it  impossible  for  the  wagons  to  pro- 
ceed ;  but  still  the  multitude  appeared  to  be  animated  by 
the  most  friendly  sentiments.  The  venerable  old  king  next 
appeared,  and  promised  to  pay  them  an  early  visit.  On  a 
pipe  of  tobacco  being  presented,  he  began  to  inhale  the 
smoke  by  large  drafts,  and  after  being  satisfied,  handed  it 
to  his  prime  minister,  who  transmitted  it  to  the  next  in  dig- 
nity ;  thus  it  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  till  it  reached 
the  lowest  of  the  attendants.  The  king  afterward  intro- 
duced the  Doctor  to  his  two  wives,  of  whom  the  principal 
one,  Makaitshoah,  dazzled  him  by  the  beauty  which  had 
raised  her  from  a  low  degree  to  the  station  that  she  now 
occupied.  She  was  loaded  with  a  profiision  of  African 
finery, — a  mantle  trimmed  with  rich  furs,  and  fastened  to 
the  shoulder  by  a  bundle  of  cats'  tails,  sundry  necklaces  of 
bone,  copper,  and  coral,  and  on  one  arm  no  less  than 
seventy-two  copper  rings,  on  which  she  seemed  to  set  the 
highest  value  ;  she  displayed,  and  saw  them  counted  with 
peculiar  delighjt.  The  ladies  paid  a  very  long  visit,  but 
showed  little  regard  for  tea,  which  was  at  first  presented  as 
most  suitable  to  their  rank  and  sex ;  while  wine,  and  more 
especially  brandy,  were  highly  relished  by  them.  In  the 
course  of  a  long  conversation,  the  lot  of  European  wives, 
in  harving  each  a  husband  to  herself,  became,  as  usual,  the 
favourite  theme  ;  but  Makaitshoah,  though  she  approved 
of  the  system  in  general,  thought  that  in  Africa,  where 
the  WEiste  of  war  was  so  great,  polygamy,  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent, was  necessary  to  keep  up  the  numbers  of  the  nation. 

Dr.  Lichtenstein  had  intended  to  proceed  considerably 
farther  into  the  interior  ;  but  his  views  were  changed,  by  a 
proposal  earnestly  pressed  upon  him  by  the  king  to  accom- 


218  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

pany,  and  assist  with  his  firearms,  an  expedition  which 
his  majesty  was  about  to  undertake  against  his  neighboui 
Makkrakka.  Finding  that  he  could  not  remain  without  in- 
volving himself  in  the  deadly  feuds  of  these  African  chiefs, 
he  chose  rather  to  return  to  the  colony. 

Mr.  John  Campbell,  animated  by  the  benevolent  desire 
of  imparting  to  this  people  the  blessings  of  true  religion, 
undertook,  in  1S13,  a  mission  into  Southern  Africa.  Pass- 
ing the  Sneuwberg  in  the  same  direction  that  had  been  fol- 
lowed by  Messrs.  Trutter  and  Somerville,  he  reached  Lat- 
takoo,  which,  by  a  change  not  unusual  in  Africa,  had  been 
moved  about  sixty  miles  to  the  southward  of  its  original 
situation  ;  but  th«  new  city  had  not  yet  attained  more  than 
half  the  dimensions  of  the  old.  His  reception  was  at  first 
marked  by  a  peculiar  caution  and  jealousy.  Not  a  sound 
was  heard  in  the  city ;  and  he  walked  through  empty 
streets  till  he  came  to  the  great  square  in  front  of  the  palace, 
where  several  hundred  men  were  drawn  up  armed  and  in 
battle  array.  All  this  precaution  was  found  to  have  been 
suggested  by  the  fear  that  he  and  his  companions  were  sent 
to  avenge  the  death  of  Dr.  Cowan  and  Mr.  Denovan ;  but 
no  sooner  were  the  inhabitants  satisfied  that  he  came  with 
no  commission  from  government,  and  with  no  hostile  object, 
than  they  crowded  round  him  with  their  usual  frankness, 
and  eagerly  begged  for  tobacco.  Soon  after,  Mateebe,  the 
king,  entered  with  a  numerous  train  of  attendants,  bearing 
spears  tipped  with  ostrich  feathers.  He  did  not,  in  pass- 
ing, take  any  notice  of  the  English  strangers,  but  imme- 
diately after  admitted  them  to  an  interview,  though  without 
giving  them  quite  so  gracious  a  reception  as  they  could 
have  wished.  He  particularly  demurred  to  the  proposal 
of  founding  a  mission  at  Lattakoo,  on  the  ground  or  pre- 
tence that  it  would  interfere  with  the  tending  of  their  cattle 
and  other  occupations  ;  but  this  being  Mr.  Campbell's  fa- 
vourite object,  he  pressed  it  so  earnestly,  and  represented, 
in  such  flattering  terms,  the  superior  wealth  and  industry 
of  Europeans,  that  Mateebe  at  length  gave  his  consent  to 
the  establishment  of  missionaries,  and  promised  to  treat 
them  well. 

Mr.  Campbell's  observations  finally  dissipated  all  that  yet 
remained  of  the  original  illusion,  which  had  represented 
this  people  as  enjoying  at  once  the  innocence  and  the 


CAMPBELL.  219 

felicity  of  the  primitive  ages.  There  was,  indeed,  as  not  un- 
ftequently  happens  in  uncivilized  life,  a  courteous,  kind, 
and  friendly  spirit  towards  one  another.  But  between 
neighbouring  tribes  the  enmity  is  as  deadly,  and  the  laws 
and  practices  of  war  as  barbarous,  as  among  the  rudest  of 
African  hordes.  The  missionary,  with  the  view  of  paving 
the  way  for  religious  instruction,  having  asked  one  of  them 
what  was  the  chief  end  of  man,  received  an  immediate  an- 
swer, "  For  commandos," — the  term  by  which  they  express 
their  raids  or  forays  undertaken  for  the  purpose  of  stealing 
cattle.  With  the  profit  of  carrying  off  the  herds,  they  seek 
also  to  combine  the  glory  of  killing  the  warriors  to  whom 
they  belong.  The  number  of  men  whom  they  have  slain 
forms  their  chief  boast ;  in  which  estimate  they  reckon  one 
white  equal  to  two  blacks. 

In  1820,  Mr.  Campbell,  supported  by  the  Missionary  So- 
ciety, undertook  another  journey  into  this  district  of  Africa. 
He  found  the  Christian  establishment  at  Lattakoo  in  a 
somewhat  flourishing  state.  There  was  a  chapel  capable 
of  containing  about  400  persons,  and  a  row  of  good  houses 
with  gardens  for  the  missionaries.  But  the  friendly  con- 
duct of  the  natives  towards  that  body  had  not  been  accom- 
panied with  any  disposition  to  embrace,  or  even  to  listen  to 
their  doctrines.  The  Boshuanas,  more  perhaps  than  any 
other  barbarians,  seem  to  labour  under"  a  peculiar  thraldom 
to  the  senses,  and  an  utter  disregard  for  all  lofty  and  spi- 
ritual ideas.  Beads  for  ornament,  cattle  for  use,  com- 
mandos or  forays  for  the  display  of  valour  and  activity,  ab- 
sorb their  whole  attention,  and  leave  no  room  for  any 
higher  objects.  The  number  assembled  to  see  the  mis- 
sionaries dine  was  three  times  greater  than  could  ever  be 
induced  to  convene  to  hear  them  preach. 

At  Lattakoo  Mr.  Campbell  met  Kossie,  king  or  chief  of 
Mashow,  and  obtained  permission  to  visit  him,  which, 
though  expressed  in  rather  cold  and  haughty  terms,  his  zeal 
induced  him  to  embrace.  The  road  lay  through  a  delight- 
ful country,  consisting  neither,  like  most  parts  of  the  Cape 
territory,  of  a  naked  desert,  nor,  like  some  others,  of  an  im- 
penetrable forest,  but  of  a  boundless  meadow  of  luxuriant 
pasture,  interspersed  with  numerous  clumps  of  trees,  ap- 
pearing at  a  distance  like  a  continued  wood,  but  gradually 
opening    as   he    approached  hese    fertile   plains    are 


220  SOTJTHERN  AFRICA. 

tenanted  only  by  a  few  roving  Bushmen ;  for  so  incessant 
and  destructive  are  the  wars  carried  on,  even  among  the 
"Boshuanas  themselves,  that  they  are  obliged  to  concentrate 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their  towns.  Of  these,  the  first 
they  came  to  was  Meribohwey,  the  capital  of  a  chief  named 
Tammahoo,  where  the  warriors  rushed  forth  to  meet  them 
dressed  in  the  skins  of  wild  beasts,  painted  red,  and  furi- 
ously brandishing  their  spears  and  battle-axes, — rather  an 
astounding  welcome  to  the  worthy  missionaries,  though  it 
was  found  to  be  all  meant  in  kindness.  They  came  next 
to  Mashow,  beautifully  situated  on  a  hill  surrounded  by  a 
number  of  lesser  eminences.  Within  a  circuit  of  twenty 
miles  there  were  twenty-nine  villages,  with  an  almost  un- 
interrupted cultivation.  The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at 
10,000  or  12,000,  and  their  houses  and  modes  of  life  are 
somewhat  superior  to  those  of  Lattakoo. 

From  Mashow  Mr.  Campbell  passed  through  a  country 
continually  improving  in  richness  and  beauty,  and  inter- 
sected by  several  streams  that  appeared  to  direct  theii 
course  to  the  Indian  Ocean.  At  length  he  reached  Kuree- 
chane,  which  is  thought  entitled  to  the  appellation  of  a 
city  ;  and,  at  all  events,  its  construction,  and  the  arts 
practised  in  it,  were  decidedly  superior  to  any  thing  yet 
seen  in  Southern  Africa.  The  natives  smelted  iron  and 
copper  in  large  clay  furnaces ;  their  houses  were  sur- 
lounded  with  good  stone-enclosures  ;  while  the  walls  of 
mud  were  often  painted,  and  moulded  into  pillars  and  other 
ornaments.  Well-fashioned  vessels  of  earthenware  were 
used  for  holding  their  com,  milk,  and  other  stores  ;  and 
considerable  ingenuity  was  shown  in  the  preparation  of 
skins.  A  certain  extent  of  land,  immediately  round  the 
tovm,  was  under  cultivation,  while  a  larger  portion  beyond 
was  devoted  to  pasturage  ;  but  it  was  necessary  that  the 
cattle  should  every  night  be  brought  within  the  protection 
of  the  town. 

At  Kureechane  Mr.  Campbell  witnessed,  on  the  largest 
scale,  the  'pectso  or  African  council,  where  the  assembled 
chiefs  act  so  extravagantly,  yet  speak  with  so  much  judg- 
ment, as  makes  it  difficult  to  say  whether  they  are  sages 
or  madmen.  Even  in  their  way  to  the  meeting  these 
eavages' indulge  in  strange  gambols,  maldng  immense  leaps 
into  the  air,  brandisliing  their  weapons,  as  if  to  attack  and 


BFRCHELL.  221 

eometimes  to  stab  an  enemv.  The  circle  being  formed, 
they  all  join  in  a  song,  which  the  principal  person  often 
follows  with  a  dance.  Each  chief,  as  he  rises,  prefaces 
his  speech  with  three  tremendous  howls  or  yells,  sometimes 
imitating  the  bark  of  a  dog.  Several  of  his  attendants 
then  spring  forward  and  dance  before  him, — an  accompa- 
niment never  omitted,  even  when  the  age  and  stiffened 
limbs  of  the  performers  render  it  altogether  ludicrous.  At 
length  comes  the  speech,  replete  with  frankness,  courage, 
often  with  good  sense,  and  even  with  a  rude  species  of  elo- 
quence. On  some  occasions  the  speakers  do  not  hesitate 
to  pour  the  severest  reproaches  on  the  king,  who  retorts 
with  bitterness,  but  never  resents  in  any  other  shape.  The 
females,  meantime,  stand  behind,  and  take  an  eager  interest 
in  the  debate, — cheering  those  whose  sentiments  they  ap- 
prove, or  bursting  into  loud  laughter  at  any  that  they  con- 
sider ridiculous. 

Mr.  Campbell,  on  his  return,  took  a  direction  somewhat 
to  the  westward,  and  found  himself  on  the  borders  of  an 
immense  desert,  which  he  thinks  may  be  called  the  Southern 
Sahara.  A  party  engaged  in  a  plundering  expedition 
were  said  to  have  spent  two  months  in  reaching  Mampoor, 
its  opposite  extremity,  which  was  found  situated  on  the 
ocean.  His  conclusion,  however,  that  this  desert  reaches 
nearly  to  the  equator  is  very  hasty,  since  the  route  which 
he  mentions  evidently  extended,  in  a  great  measure,  from 
east  to  west. 

Mr.  Burchell,  in  1812,  made  a  pretty  extensive  journey 
through  this  part  of  Africa.  He  did  not  reach  quite  so  far 
as  his  predecessor  ;  and  the  account  of  his  progress  beyond 
Lattakoo  has  not  yet  appeared.  At  that  city  he  spent  a 
considerable  time  ;  and  his  diligent  observations  of  nature 
and  society,  animated  by  a  fine  vein  of  philosophical  re- 
flection, give  a  considerable  interest  to  his  narrative. 

That  rude  equality  which  had  been  remarked  among  all 
the  tribes  of  the  Hottentot  race  was  found  here  giving 
way  to  very  marked  distinctions,  chiefly  supported  by 
wealth,  which  those  in  power  sought  the  means  of  in- 
creasing, in  their  incessant  wars  and  plunder  ;  yet  their 
dignity  is  not  accompanied  with  that  haughty  separation 
from  the  inferior  classes  which  exists  in  Europe.  Mateebe, 
called  here  Mattivi,  chief  or  king,  used  to  squat  himself 
T2 


323  SOUTHERN   AFRICA. 

on  the  ground,  chatting  and  exchanging  pipes  with  the  lowest 
of  his  people.  Although,  of  course,  their  manners  can 
hoast  no  great  refinement,  they  are  neither  boisterous  noi 
vulgar  ;  but  a  frank  and  easy  deportment  distinguishes  all 
classes.  Industry  is  held  in  honour ;  the  chiefs  tend  and 
even  milk  the  covins,  while  the  women  build  the  houses,  cul- 
tivate the  ground,  and  prepare  clothes  and  furniture.  On 
one  occasion  they  gave  good  proof  of  their  honesty ;  for, 
when  the  traveller's  cattle  had  run  away  and  mingled  with 
immense  herds  of  their  own,  they  sought  them  out  and 
brought  them  back  to  him.  In  begging,  however,  they  are 
most  ceaseless  and  importunate.  At  Mr.  Burchell's  first 
entrance  they  observed  a  certain  degree  of  ceremony,  and 
only  one  solitary  cry  for  tobacco  was  heard ;  but  this  feel- 
ing of  delicacy  or  decorum  soon  gave  way.  Mattivi  himself 
made  a  private  request  that  the  presents  intended  for  him 
should  not  be  seen  by  the  people  at  large,  by  whom  they 
would  soon  be  all  begged  away.  They  seemed  to  have  more 
pride  in  what  they  procured  by  solicitation  than  in  a  thing 
of  greater  value  if  received  as  a  spontaneous  gift.  There 
Was  hardly  any  appearance  of  police  ;  even  murder  passed 
with  impunity,  though  among  themselves  it  was  not  fre- 
quent. They  had  no  temples,  and  nothing  which  Mr.  Bur- 
chell  thinks  can  be  called  religious  worship  ;  but,  in  return, 
they  had  every  form  of  superstition,  which  is  generally  the 
sole  substitute  for  reUgion  in  unenlightened  societies. 

The  last  visiter  to  Lattakoo  was  Mr.  Thompson,  who,  in 
1823,  found  that  city  in  a  state  of  great  danger  and  alarm. 
Rumours  poured  in  of  an  immense  host  of  black  warriors 
coming  from  the  north  and  the  east,  who  were  said  to  be 
plundering  and  destroying  every  thing  before  them.  They 
had  already  sacked  Kureechane  ;  and  being  repulsed  from 
Melita,  capital  of  the  Wanketzens,  were  marching  directly 
upon  Old  Lattakoo.  whence,  it  was  apprehended,  they  would 
advance  to  the  modern  city.  It  was  added  that  they  were 
cannibals,  and  were  led  by  a  giantess  with  one  eye  ;  but, 
amid  all  this  exaggeration  and  falsehood,  the  reality  of  the 
danger  was  undoubted.  The  Boshuanas  immediately  sum- 
moned a  peetso,  and  formed  the  manly  resolution  of  going 
out  to  meet  the  invader  ;  but  all  who  knew  them  were  aware 
that  they  would  fight  only  by  ambuscade  and  under  cover, 
and  would  take  to  flight  as  soon  as  the  enemy  should  make 


THOMPSON.  223 

a  serious  attack.  The  missionaries,  in  this  extremity, 
made  great  exertions  to  save  the  nation.  One  of  them 
hastened  back  to  implore  the  aid  of  the  Griquas,  a  people 
bordering  on  the  English  colony,  and  who  had  learned  the 
use  of  firearms  from  the  Europeans.  Mr.  Thompson  and 
another  went  out  to  trace  and  report  the  progress  of  this 
formidable  inroad.  On  reaching  Old  Lattakoo  they  found 
it  silent  and  uninhabited,  like  the  most  desolate  wilderness  ; 
while  the  pots  boiling  on  the  fires  showed  that  its  desertion 
was  recent,  and  that  the  enemy  were  probably  at  a  very 
short  distance.  Notwithstanding,  they  continued  to  ride 
on,  till,  arriving  at  the  top  of  a  hill,  their  guide  cried  out, 
"the  Mantatees  !"  who  were  in  fact  seen  moving  in  an  im- 
mense mass  along  the  vallej'^  beneath.  It  was  necessary 
to  put  spurs  to  their  horses,  in  oider  to  escape  the  hazard 
of  being  surrounded. 

The  arrival  of  Mr.  Thompson  at  Lattakoo'  spread  a  ge- 
neral alarm ;  for  so  rapid  was  the  Mantatee  march,  that 
only  a  little  time  could  elapse  before  they  would  reach  the 
city.  The  queen,  vidth  her  female  attendants  and  the  prin- 
cipal chiefs,  rushed  into  the  house  to  ask  the  advice  of  the 
missionaries  in  this  fearful  crisis.  The  general  opinion 
was  in  favour  of  flight.  Even  the  warriors,  who  had  been 
poisoning  their  arrows  and  dancing  the  war-dance  whole 
nights  without  intermission,  gave  up  all  hopes  of  success- 
ful resistance,  and  were  preparing  to  follow  the  long  files 
of  oxen,  on  which  the  inhabitants  were  already  placing 
their  most  valuable  eflfects.  Suddenly  a  cloud  of  dust  was 
seen  in  the  south,  which,  on  its  nearer  approach,  announced 
the  first  division  of  Griqua  horse  coming  to  their  aid. 
Hereupon,  all  who  were  endued  with  any  portion  of  cou- 
rage determined  to  remain  and  face  the  enemy.  The  allies 
were  received  with  unbounded  exultation ;  many  oxen 
were  killed  and  roasted,  and  even  at  this  critical  moment 
the  two  parties  gave  themselves  up  to  feasting  and  jollity. 
Their  security  increased,  when  notice  was  received  that  the 
Mantatees  still  remained  at  Old  Lattakoo,  consuming  the 
cattle  and  pro\isions  which  they  had  found  in  that  place. 
Several  of  the  missionaries  then  set  out  to  endeavour  to 
open  a  negotiation.  On  coming  within  sight  of  the  enemy 
they  rode  forward  in  a  peaceful  manner,  inviting  them  by 
signs  to  a  conference ;  when  instantly  that  savage  host 


224  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

raised  a  hideous  yell,  and  rushed  forward  so  rapidly,  throw- 
ing their  spears  and  clubs,  that  the  Christian  plenipoten- 
tiaries found  the  utmost  difficulty  in  galloping  out  of  their 
reach. 

The  allied  force  now  came  up,  and  on  the  following 
morning  offered  battle  to  the  vast  army  of  the  Mantatees. 
Their  aspect  was  truly  frightful.  They  were  almost  quite 
black,  with  only  a  girdle  round  their  loins  ;  their  heads 
were  crowned  with  plumes  of  ostrich  feathers  ;  they  had 
numerous  brass  rings  about  their  neck  and  legs,  and  were 
armed  with  spears,  javelins,  battle-axes,  and  clubs.  Their 
whole  body,  which  was  supposed  to  amount  to  at  least 
40,000,  rushed  forward  in  an  extended  line,  endeavouring 
to  enclose  the  little  troop  opposed  to  them.  The  Boshu- 
anas  gave  way  as  soon  as  they  were  seriously  attacked  ; 
the  Griquas,  on  the  contrary,  kept  up  a  close  fire,  which 
stunned  the  enemy,  who  still,  however,  continued  to  ad- 
vance. The  horsemen  galloped  back  to  some  distance,  then 
alighted,  and  again  alternately  fired  and  retreated,  repeating 
this  manoeuvre  for  several  miles.  The  Mantatees  pressed 
on  with  the  utmost  fury,  confident,  if  they  could  once  come 
to  close  quarters,  of  annihilating  in  an  instant  the  handfiil 
of  troops  opposed  to  them  ;  but  finding  that  all  their  efforts 
were  vain,  and  seeing  their  bravest  warriors  falling  rapidly, 
they  paused,  and  began  slowly  to  retire.  The  Griquas 
pursued,  but  were  several  times  exposed  to  extreme  danger 
by  the  enemy  turning  suddenly  round  and  renewing  the 
combat.  At  length  the  Mantatees  set  fire  to  Lattakoo,  and 
retreated  through  the  flames.  The  missionaries  were  now 
deeply  shocked  by  the  base  and  barbarous  conduct  of  the 
Boshuanas,  who,  after  their  pusillanimous  behaviour  in  the 
field,  began  not  only  to  plunder,  but  to  butcher  the  wounded 
as  well  as  the  women  and  children  left  on  the  field ;  nor 
was  it  without  great  difficulty  that  they  succeeded  in  saving 
some  of  these  defenceless  objects. 

The  name  Mantatee,  which  signifies  wanderer,  applies, 
it  is  said,  in  no  other  respect  to  this  desolating  horde.  They 
appear  to  be  a  Caffre  tribe,  inhabiting  the  country  near 
Cape  Natal,  along  the  lower  course  of  the  river  Mapoota. 
They  were  impelled  to  this  inroad,  in  consequence  of  having 
been  driven  from  their  own  possessions  by  the  Zoolas,  a  still 
more  fierce  and  warlike  race,  who,  on  that  occasion,  were 


Queen  of  Lattakoo,  Lattakoo  Warrior,  and  two  ] 
Hottentots.— [p.  225.] 


EASTERN  AFRICA.  225 

led  to  victory  by  their  king,  Chaka,  who  can  arm  100,000 
fighting  men,  and  has  15,000  constantly  ready  for  war.  A 
email  English  settlement  has  been  formed  on  his  maritime 
border,  which  is  encouraged  by  that  powerful  chief  with  a 
view  to  commercial  advantages  ;  but  of  course  much  pre- 
caution is  required  in  dealing  with  a  potentate  who  com- 
mands so  many  savage  bows  and  spears. 

The  Mantatees,  after  their  defeat,  separated  into  several 
detachments,  one  of  which  settled  among  the  Kureechanes, 
while  another  advanced  against  the  Cafires,  whom  they. de- 
feated, and  part  of  whose  territory  they  have  since  continued 
to  occupy  and  plunder.  In  1826,  they  came  within  two 
days'  journey  of  the  British  frontier,  where  there  was 
nothing  to  prevent  them  from  advancing  upon  the  Scotch 
locations  in  Albany  ;  but  measures  have  since  been  taken,  by 
which  these  settlements  are  placed  in  full  security.* 

We  possess  only  a  very  limited  knowledge  respecting  the 
eastern  coast  of  Africa,  washed  by  the  Indian  Ocean, — a  re- 
gion scarcely  visited  except  by  the  Portuguese,  who  con- 
tinued to  throw  a  veil  of  mystery  over  all  their  discoveries. 
In  1498,  when  Vasco  de  Gama  had  rounded  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  he  touched  at  Mozambique,  Mombasa,  and  Me- 
linda,  where  he  found  the  ruling  people  Arabs  and  bigoted 
Mohammedans.  His  object  was  merely  to  obtain  pilots  to 
guide  his  fleet  to  India ;  but  at  the  two  former  of  these 
ports  he  met  an  inhospitable  and  treacherous  reception  ; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  he  experienced  at  Melinda  the  ut- 
most courtesy,  and  readily  found  the  means  of  continuing 
his  voyage  to  the  coast  of  Malabar.  Cabral,  who  followed 
in  the  footsteps  of  Gama,  likewise  visited  Quiloa,  which  he 
describes  as  the  capital  of  an  extensive  kingdom,  and  the 
seat  of  a  flourishing  trade ;  but  it  was  not  till  he,  too, 
reached  Melinda,  that  he  could  obtain  any  friendly  as- 
sistance. 

The  Portuguese,  engrossed  for  some  time  with  the  more 
brilliant  objects  presented  by  the  shores  of  India,  sought  in 
African  ports  only  refreshment  and  pilots,  and  made  no  at- 
tempt at  conquest.  As  their  empire,  however,  extended, 
resentment  or  ambition  furnished  motives  for  successively 
attacking  those   settlements.     In  1505,  Almeda,  indignant 

*  Tlie  group  in  the  annexed  plate  represents  the  Queen  of  Lattakoo,  a 
Lattakoo  warnoq  and  two  Bosjesman  Hottentots. 


226  EASTERN  AFRICA. 

at  the  reception  given  to  him  at  Quiloa  and  Mombasa,  landed 
and  took  possession  of  both  these  cities.  In  1 508,  permis- 
sion was  obtained  to  erect  a  fort  at  Mozambique,  by  means 
of  which  the  Portuguese  soon  expelled  the  Arabs,  and  be- 
came complete  masters  of  the  town.  Attracted  by  its  vici- 
nity to  the  gold  mines,  and  its  convenience  as  a  place  of  re- 
freshment for  their  fleets,  they  made  it  the  capital  of  the:, 
possessions  in  Eastern  Africa.  Melinda  also,  which  had 
long  shown  such  a  friendly  disposition  to  Europeans,  be- 
came at  last  unable  to  endure  the  insulting  spirit  of  the 
Mohammedans ;  a  quarrel  arose,  and  that  city  was  added  to 
the  dominion  of  the  Portuguese.  They  were  now  masters 
of  an  immense  range  of  coast,  fully  2000  miles  in  length, 
on  which  they  held  all  the  principal  positions,  though 
without  extending  their  sway  to  any  distance  into  the  in- 
terior. 

About  1569,  the  Portuguese  made  two  vigorous  attempts, 
under  Nugnez  Barreto  and  Vasco  Fernandez,  to  advance 
into  the  country  behind  Mozambique,  chiefly  with  the  view 
of  reaching  the  mines  of  gold,  the  produce  of  which  was 
brought  in  considerable  quantities  down  the  Zambese  to 
Sofala.  They  penetrated  a  considerable  way  up  the  river, 
on  the  banks  of  which  they  erected  the  forts  of  Sena  and 
Tete.  Its  upper  course  was  found  overhung  by  steep  and 
precipitous  rocks,  belonging  to  the  mountainous  range  of 
Lupala,  which  here  crosses  its  channel.  They  arrived  at 
Zimbao,  the  capital  of  Quiteve,  or  king  of  Motapa,  and  even 
at  the  gold  mines  of  Manica  ;  but,  instead  of  the  expected 
profusion  of  this  precious  metal,  they  found  that,  as  in  other 
parts  of  Africa,  it  was  laboriously  extracted  in  small  quan- 
tities from  the  extraneous  substances  in  which  it  is  imbed- 
ded. On  this  expedition  they  had  frequent  encounters  with 
the  natives,  who  were  always  beaten  in  the  field  ;  but  the 
Europeans  were  so  harassed  by  long  marches,  and  by  the 
scarcity  of  provisions,  that  they  finally  returned  in  a  very 
exhausted  state,  and  without  having  been  able  to  establish 
any  permanent  dominion  over  that  vast  extent  of  country. 

As  the  energy  of  the  Portuguese  government  declined,  its 
sway  over  these  colonies  was  reduced  within  limits  which 
always  became  narrower.  In  1631,  the  people  of  Mom- 
basa rose,  made  a  general  massacre  of  the  Europeans,  and 
re-establishe4  their  independence.     About  the  end  of  the 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA  227 

seventeenth  century,  the  imam  of  Mascat,  a  powerful  Ara- 
bian prince,  drove  them  out  of  MeUnda  and  Quiloa.  Their 
possessions  are  now  confined  to  Mozambique  and  Sofala, 
and  are  maintained  even  there  on  a  very  reduced  scale.  The 
former  of  these  stations,  when  visited  by  Mr.  Salt  in  1808, 
was  found  to  contain  less  than  3000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
only  500  were  Portuguese  ;  and  the  fortifications  were  in 
so  neglected  a  state,  that  an  Arabian  chief  assured  the  tra- 
veller that  with  100  stout  followers  he  could  drive  the  sub- 
jects of  Portugal  out  of  this  capital  of  Eastern  Africa. 
Yet  the  government-house,  in  its  interior  arrangements,  still 
exhibits  some  remains  of  the  ancient  splendour  of  the  vice- 
roys. The  entertainment  of  tea,  which  is  open  every  eve- 
ning to  all  the  respectable  inhabitants,  is  set  out  in  a  service 
of  pure  gold ;  and  the  negroes  in  attendance  are  absolutely 
loaded  with  ornaments  of  that  metal.  Mozambique  has 
still  a  pretty  considerable  commerce  in  gold,  ivory,  and 
slaves,  brought  down  from  the  regions  of  the  Upper  Zam- 
bese.  These  captives,  since  Britain  shut  against  them  the 
markets  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  Mauritius,  have 
been,  to  the  number  of  about  4000  in  the  year,  sent  chieflv 
to  Brazil. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

On  the  Social  Condition  of  Africa. 

Having  commenced  this  work  by'  a  general  survey  of 
Africa  as  it  came  from  Nature's  hand,  we  shall  conclude 
with  taking  a  rapid  sketch  of  the  changes  made  by  man,— 
the  societies  formed  on  its  immense  surface  ;  its  arts,  its  in- 
dustry, its  social  and  moral  existence  ;  noticing,  finally,  the 
few  attempts  which  Britain  has  made  to  establish  colonies 
on  that  continent. 

A  grand  distinction  must  here  be  made  between  the  na- 
tive inhabitants  of  AfHca  and  the  foreign  races  from  Arabia 
and  other  Asiatic  countries,  by  whom  so  large  a  portion  of 
its  surface  has  been  occupied.     This  distinction  we  shall 


228  SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA* 

rest,  not  upon  supposed  resemblances  of  fonn  and  figlirev 
or  faint  analogies  between  the  language  of  distant  nations, 
but  upon  the  introduction,  within  the  limits  of  authentic 
history,  of  a  people,  manners,  and  religion  belonging  to 
another  continent.  The  changes  now  mentioned  were 
effected,  in  a  great  measure,  by  the  inroads  of  the  Arabs  or 
Saracens,  and  afterward  by  the  conquests  of  the  Turks,— ^ 
events  which  have  diffused  over  the  northern  half  of  Africa 
a  social  system  every  way  different  from  that  of  the  tribes 
by  whom  it  was  formerly  inhabited.  We  shall  begin,  how* 
ever,  with  considering  the  native  races  who  at  present  peo- 
ple this  quarter  of  the  globe. 

The  native  tribes  of  Africa  exist  generally  in  that  stage  "^ 
of  society  which  is  denominated  barbarian.     They  are  ele-  , 
vated  above  the  hunting  or  savage  state,  by  the  power  of  *, 
taming  and  subjecting  the  lower  animals,  and  by  a  certain  ' 
rude  agriculture  which  the  fertility  of  the  soil  renders  pro-   ■ 
ductive.    Yet  few  of  them  are  nomadic  and  wandering  like  - 
the  Arabs  or  the  Tartars  :  they  generally  have  native  seats,  < 
to  which  they  cling  with  strong  feelings  of  local  attach-   , 
rient.     Even  the  tenants  of  the  Desert,  who  roam  widely 
in  quest  of  commerce  and  plunder,  have  their  little  watered 
valleys,  or  circuit  of  hills,  in  which  they  make  their  perma- 
nent abode. 

Agriculture,  including  pasturage,  forms  the  most  im- 
portant branch  of  industry  in  every  society,  and  more  espe- 
cially in  one  where  all  the  finer  arts  are  yet  in  a  state  of  in- 
fancy. In  Africa,  however,  both  the  extent  of  cultivation 
and  the  processes  employed  are  still  extremely  imperfect. 
This  is  particularly  manifest  from  the  fact  that  no  private 
property  in  land  has  been  any  where  established.  Every 
city  or  village  is  encircled  by  an  unoccupied  domain  of 
forest  or  waste,  belonging  to  the  king  or  the  state,  and  of 
which  a  portion  is  ready  to  be  granted  to  any  one  who  will 
undertake  the  labour  and  expense  of  cultivation  ;  while  the 
remainder  forms  an  immense  cormnon,  on  which  all  the  in- 
habitants have  the  liberty  of  pasturing  their  cattle.  There 
are  in  Africa  no  country-seats,  no  rural  farms,  such  as  em- 
bellish the  aspect  of  an  European  landscape  ;  and  which,  in 
fact,  could  not  exist  in  safety,  where  each  little  state  is  be- 
girt with  hostile  neighbours,  and  so  many  predatory  bands 
are  prowling  in  every  direction.    The  population  is  col- 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA,  229 

lected  in  towns  or  large  villages,  round  which  a  circle  of 
cultivation  is  formed ;  while  beyond  are  pasture-lands 
where  numerous  herds  are  fed,  and  watched  by  day  as  well 
as  by  night.  The  space  within  the  walls  forms  a  pretty 
wide  district,  where,  even  in  the  largest  cities,  the  houses 
are  interspersed  with  cultivated  fields,  and  the  low  roofs 
are  seen  rising  behind  ears  of  com.  All  the  processes  of 
preparing  the  ground,  sowing,  and  reaping,  are  slight  and 
simple.  The  plough  has  not  passed  the  limits  of  Barbary ; 
and  perhaps,  in  tropical  climates,  the  deep  furrow  which  it 
lays  open  might  expose  the  soil  too  much  to  the  parching 
effects  of  a  burning  sun.  Grain  is  raised  only  by  means 
of  the  most  profuse  moisture,  which  of  itself  softens  the 
earth.  As  soon  as  the  periodical  floods  have  deluged  the 
ground,  or  the  temporary  river  inundation  has  retired,  the 
labourers  walk  forth ;  one  slightly  stirs  the  earth  with  a 
hoe,  while  another,  close  behind,  deposites  the  grain.  Fre- 
quently this  toil  is  lightened,  from  being  performed  by  the 
whole  village  in  common,  when  it  appears  less  a  scene  of 
labour  than  a  gay  festival,  like  our  English  period  of  reap- 
ing. The  \nllage  musician  plays  the  most  lively  airs  ;  the 
labourers  keep  time  to  his  tune  ;  and  a  spectator  at  a  little 
distance  would  suppose  them  to  be  dancing  instead  of 
working.  Irrigation,  in  all  tropical  climates,  is  the  grand 
source  of  fertility ;  and  wherever  industry  has  made  any 
progress,  very  considerable  pains  are  taken  to  collect  and 
distribute  the  waters,  which  either  fall  in  rain,  or  are  con- 
veyed by  river  channels.  Egypt  is  well  known  to  owe  its 
fertility  altogether  to  the  canals  which  diffuse  over  its 
plains  the  water  of  the  Nile ;  and  in  Nubia,  where  the 
current  remains  constantly  sunk  in  its  rocky  bed,  there  is  a 
succession  of  sakies  or  wheels,  by  which  it  is  raised,  and 
conducted  over  the  adjoining  fields.  In  this  way  a  belt  of 
cultivation,  of  about  a  mile  in  breadth,  is  perpetuated  along 
the  whole  upper  course  of  that  great  river. 

In  all  the  tropical  and  more  arid  regions,  the  prevailing 
grains  are  of  inferior  character,  coarse,  and  small, — rather, 
as  Jobson  says,  like  seeds  than  grains,  and  fitted  less  for 
bread  than  for  paste  or  pottage.  The  dhourra  is  the  most  com- 
mon, extending  over  all  Eastern  Africa ;  while  millet  in  the 
west,  and  teff  in  Abyssinia,,  are  productions  nearly  similar. 
In  the  latter  country  and  Houssa,  both  wheat  and  rice  are 
U 


230  SOCUL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

raised,  but  only  in  favourable  situations,  and  for  the  tables 
of  the  more  opulent.  Perhaps  the  greatest  exertion  of 
agricultural  industry  is  that  bestowed  upon  the  culture  of 
the  manioc,  which  forms  the  main  article  of  food  in  Congo 
and  some  of  the  insular  territories.  Considerable  care  is 
required  in  rearing  it,  and  cleaning  the  ground  round  the 
plants  ;  after  the  root,  which  is  the  valuable  part,  has  been 
dug  up,  it  must  be  ground  in  a  species  of  mill,  and  dried  in 
small  furnaces,  before  it  can  be  used  as  flour.  The  process 
is  represented  in  the  accompanying  plate. 

Manufactures,  in  a  country  where  men  are  contented 
with  the  simplest  accommodations,  cannot  attain  any  high 
importance.  There  are,  however,  certain  fine  fabrics  pc 
culiar  to  Central  Africa;  of  which  the  most  general  is 
cotton  cloth,  produced  in  several  districts  of  a  very  beauti- 
ful texture,  dyed  blue  with  fine  indigo,  and  receiving  from 
the  processes  employed  a  very  brilliant  gloss.  Leather  in 
Houssa  is  dressed  and  dyed  in  the  same  rich  and  soft  style 
as  in  Morocco  ;  and  probably,  in  both  cases,  the  manufac- 
ture is  native.  Mats,  used  both  for  sitting  and  sleeping  on, 
are  the  staple  manufacture  in  many  parts  of  Western 
Africa.  Gold  and  silver  ornaments  are  made  with  some 
taste  ;  and  iron  is  generally  fabricated,  though  with  a  vary- 
ing and  imperfect  degree  of  skill. 

The  tribes  of  Africa  have  scarcely  in  any  instance  ar- 
rived at  the  first  rudiments  of  maritime  commerce.  The 
circuit  of  that  continent  presents  no  spacious  inlets  of  the 
sea, — no  deep  bays  to  cherish  the  growth  of  infant  naviga- 
tion. Even  the  great  lines  of  river-course  are  little  if  at 
all  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  inland  communication, 
but  are  often  so  situated  as  to  obstruct  the  career  of  the 
traveller,  who  crosses  them  in  canoes  hollowed  out  of  a 
single  tree,  or  on  slight  and  dangerous  rafts.  Almost  all 
the  commerce  of  Africa  is  carried  on  by  land.  Caravans, 
kafilas,  or  coffles,  cover  all  the  routes,  and  connect  the  most 
distant  extremities  of  the  continent.  These  are  formed  by 
a  union  of  travellers,  an  arrangement  strictly  necessary  for 
mutual  aid  amid  the  difficulties  and  perils  by  which  almost 
every  track  is  beset.  The  native  traders  do  not  employ 
camels,  which  have  been  introduced  by  a  foreign  race  from 
Arabia  into  the  northern  deserts,  for  which  they  are  per- 
fectly a;daf  ted.     The  wagon,  and  indeed  every  species  of 


Negroes  preparing  the  Manioe  Root.— [p.  230. 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  231 

draught,  is  nearly  unknown,  and  would  be  ill  suited  to  the 
African  roads,  the  best  of  which  are  narrow  paths  cut 
through  thick  and  entangled  forests.  In  the  hilly  and 
central  districts,  cither  the  back  of  asses,  or  the  head  of 
slaves  and  women,  serves  as  the  ordinary  vehicle. 

The  largest  branch  of  the  native  trade  of  Africa  origin- 
ates in  the  great  demand  for  salt,  and  the  longing  desire 
which  is  felt  for  it  in  all  the  provinces  to  the  south  of  the 
Great  Desert.  This  commodity  is  chiefly  brought  from  the 
seacoast ;  from  large  pits  in  the  Western  Desert ;  and  also 
from  the  lakes  or  ponds  of  Domboo,  in  the  country  of  the 
Tibboo.  In  like  manner,  from  the  west  are  sent  up  cowries 
or  shells,  the  chief  currency  of  the  interior  kingdoms,  and 
goora  or  koUa  nuts,  a  favourite  luxury,  which,  on  account 
of  the  agreeable  taste  they  impart  to  the  water  drunk  after 
them,  are  called  African  coffee.  The  returns  are  made  in 
gold,  ivory,  fine  cloths,  and  too  often  in  slaves.  The  trade 
with  Northern  Africa  across  the  Pesert  consists  in  foreign 
commodities.  The  chief  imports  are  gaudy  and  glittering 
ornaments ;  for  the  power  of  distinguishing  between  the 
genuine  and  the  false  in  finery  does  not  seem  to  exist  be- 
yond the  Sahara.  Captain  Lyon  enumerates  nine  kinds 
of  beads,  silks,  and  cloths  of  bright  colours,  especially  red, 
copper  kettles,  long  swords,  powder,  and  ball.  Antimony 
to  blacken  the  eyes,  with  cast-off  clothes,  and  old  armour, 
find  also  a  ready  market.  The  returns  are  the  same  as 
those  sent  to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  The  monetary 
system  of  the  negro  countries  is  most  imperfect ;  for  the 
shell  currency,  of  which  it  requires  several  thousand  pieces 
to  make  up  a  pound  sterling,  must  be  intolerably  tedious. 
The  only  metallic  fonn  appears  in  Loggun,  where  it  con- 
sists of  rude  bars  of  iron.  In  Bomou,  and  several  coun- 
tries on  the  coast,  cloth,  mats,  or  some  other  article  in 
general  demand,  is  made  the  common  measure  of  value. 

All  the  accommodations  of  life  throughout  this  continent 
are  simple  and  limited  in  the  greatest  degree.  There  does 
not,  probably,  without  some  foreign  interposition,  exist  in 
Afiricii  a  stone  house,  or  one  which  rises  two  stories  from 
the  ground.  The  materials  of  the  very  best  habitations  are 
merely  stakes  of  wood  plastered  with  earth,  built  in  a 
conical  form  like  bee-hives,  and  resembling  the  first  rude 
shelter  which  man  framed  against  the  elements.     Many  of 


232  SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

these  mansions  afTord  little  facility  for  standing  upright, 
and  indeed  are  resorted  to  chiefly  for  sleep  and  shelter , 
while  the  court  before  the  door,  shaded  by  the  family  tree, 
is  the  scene  of  social  intercourse,  and  of  all  meetings  for 
the  purposes  of  business  and  gayety.  Greater  efforts  in- 
deed are  made  to  form  a  commodious  state-room  or  public 
hall,  called  the  palaver-house  ;  yet  this,  too,  consists  merely, 
as  shown  in  the  annexed  plate,  of  a  large  apartment,  raised 


on  posts  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  roofed  with  slopmg 
planks,  which  leave  the  interior  open  to  the  air  on  every 
side.  The  houses  and  yards  of  persons  in  any  degree  opu- 
lent are  enclosed  by  an  outer  wall  or  hedge,  sometimes  pretty 
high,  serving  the  purposes  both  of  privacy  and  defence.  Even 
the  palaces  of  the  grandees,  and  of  the  greatest  monarchs, 
consist  of  merely  a  cluster  of  these  hovels  or  cottages, 
forming  a  little  village,  with  large  open  spaces,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  common  wall.  The  state-hall  of  the  sultan 
of  the  Fellatas,  the  greatest  of  the  African  princes,  is  an 
apartment  to  which,  in  Captain  Clapperton's  opinion,  the 
term  shed  would  in  Europe  be  properly  applied.  Slender, 
however,  as  is  the  accommodation  afforded  by  these  edi- 
fices, they  are  liberally  adorned,  especially  in  the  larger 
cities,  both  with  carving  and  painting. 

If  African  houses  be  of  mean  construction,  the  internal 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  233 

accommodations  are  equally  scanty.  Except  the  state- 
chairs  or  thrones  of  the  great  monarchs,  ascended  only  on 
very  solemn  occasions,  there  is  not  throughout  native  Africa 
a  seat  to  sit  upon.  The  people  squat  on  the  ground  in  cir- 
cles ;  and  if  the  chief  can  place  beneath  him  the  skin  of  a 
lion  or  leopard,  he  is  at  the  height  of  his  pomp.  For  a 
table  there  is  at  best  a  wooden  board,  whereon  is  neither 
plate,  knife,  fork,  nor  spoon ;  the  fingers  being  supposed 
fiilly  adequate  to  the  performance  of  every  function.  If 
it  be  necessary  to  separate  into  parts  a  large  joint,  or 
even  a  sheep  roasted  whole,  the  dagger  or  sword  of  the 
warrior  is  drawn  forth,  and  very  speedily  accomplishes  the 
object. 

The  intellectual  character  of  the  natives  of  this  conti- 
nent presents  a  peculiar  and  remarkable  deficiency.  If  we 
except  the  Ethiopic  language,  which  is  seemingly  of  Arabic 
origin,  and  the  unknown  characters,  probably  Phoenician, 
inscribed  by  the  Tuaricks  on  their  dark  rocks,  there  is  not  a 
tincture  of  letters  or  of  writing  among  all  the  aboriginal  tribes 
of  Africa.  There  is  not  a  hieroglyphic  or  a  symbol, — no- 
thing corresponding  to  the  painted  stories  of  Mexico,  or  the 
knotted  quipos  of  Peru.  Oral  communication  forms  the 
only  channels  by  which  thought  can  be  transmitted  from 
one  country  and  one  age  to  another.  The  lessons  of  time, 
the  experience  of  ages,  do  not  exist  for  the  nations  of  this 
vast  continent. 

Notwithstanding  so  great  a  deficiency,  the  African  must 
not  be  imagined  as  sunk  in  entire  mental  apathy.  The  en- 
terprise of  a  perilous  and  changeful  life  developes  energies 
which  slumber  amid  the  general  body  of  the  people  in  a 
civilized  society.  Their  great  public  meetings  and  palavers 
exhibit  a  fluent  and  natural  oratory,  accompanied  often 
with  much  good  sense  and  shrewdness.  Above  all,  the  pas- 
sion for  poetry  is  nearly  universal.  As  soon  as  the  evening 
breeze  begins  to  blow,  the  song  resounds  throughout  all 
Africa, — it  cheers  the  despondency  of  the  wanderer  through 
the  desert, — it  enlivens  the  social  meeting, — it  inspires  the 
dance, — and  even  the  lamentations  of  the  mourner  are 
poured  forth  in  measured  accents.  Their  poetry  does  not  con- 
sist in  studied  and  regular  pieces,  such  as,  after  previous  study, 
are  recited  in  our  schools  and  theatres  ;  they  are  extempo- 
rary and  spontaneous  effusions,  in  which  the  speaker  gives 
U2 


234  SOCUL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

Utterance  to  his  hopes  and  fears,  his  joys  and  sorrows.  All 
the  sovereigns  are  attended  by  crowds  of  singing  men  and 
singing  women,  who,  whenever  any  interesting  event  oc« 
curs,  celebrate  it  in  songs,  which  they  repeat  aloud  and  in 
public.  Flattery,  of  course,  must  be  a  standing  reproach 
against  this  class  of  bards  ;  yet  from  this  imputation  theit 
European  brethren  are  not  exempted ;  while,  from  Major 
Laing's  report,  it  appears  that  there  is  often  present  a  sable 
TyrtiBUs,  who  reproaches  the  apathy  of  the  prince  and  people, 
and  rouses  them  to  deeds  of  valour.  Specimens  are  want- 
ing of  the  African  muse  ;  yet,  considering  that  its  effusions 
are  numerous,  inspired  by  nature,  and  animated  by  na- 
tional enthusiasm,  they  seem  not  unlikely  to  reward  tho 
care  of  a  collector.  The  few  examples  actually  given  fa- 
vour this  conclusion.  How  few  among  our  peasantry  could 
have  produced  the  pathetic  and  affecting  lamentation  which 
was  uttered  in  the  little  Bambarra  cottage  over  the  distresses 
of  Park  !  These  songs,  besides,  handed  down  from  father 
to  son,  contain  evidently  all  that  exists  among  these  na- 
tions of  traditional  history.  From  the  songs  of  the  Jil- 
limen  of  Soolimani,  Major  Laing  was  enabled  to  compile 
the  annals  of  this  small  kingdom  for  more  than  a  century. 
In  their  reUgion,  the  negroes  labour  imder  the  disadvan- 
tage of  being  left  to  unassisted  reason,  and  that,  too,  very 
little  enlightened.  Man  has,  perhaps,  an  instinctive  senti- 
ment that  his  own  fate  and  that  of  the  universe  are  ruled 
by  some  supreme  and  invisible  power ;  yet  he  sees  this  only 
through  the  medium  of  his  wishes  and  imagination.  He 
seeks  for  some  object  of  veneration  and  means  of  protection, 
which  may  assume  an  outward  and  tangible  shape.  The 
negro  reposes  his  faith  in  the  doctrine  of  charms,  which 
presents  a  substance  stamped  with  a  mystic  and  superna- 
tural character,  capable  of  being  attached  to  himself  indi- 
vidually, and  of  affording  a  feeling  of  security  amid  the 
many  evils  that  environ  him.  The  manitou  of  the  native 
Americans  is  founded  upon  the  same  principle ;  and  the 
similar  use,  by  Catholics,  of  images,  beads,  and  relics,  per- 
vertedly  employed  even  under  a  pure  and  exalted  religion, 
shows  the  strength  of  this  propensity  in  the  human  mind. 
In  all  the  Moorish  borders,  where  writing  is  known,  it  forms 
the  basis  of  feticherie  ;  and  its  productions,  rendered  more 
brilliant  and  sensible  by  being  enclosed  in  golden  or  orna 


SOCUL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  236 

mented  cases,  are  hung  round  the  person  as  guardian  influ- 
ences. The  very  circumstance  of  the  characters  being  un- 
intelligible gives  to  them  the  power  of  exciting  ideas  more 
mysterious  and  supernatural.  Where  this  art  is  unknown, 
a  bow,  a  horn,  a  feather,  the  beaks  and  the  claws  of  birds, 
even  the  most  frivolous  and  insignificant  object,  is  employed 
and  reUed  on  with  the  fullest  confidence.  Absurd,  how- 
ever, as  are  the  observances  of  the  negro,  he  is  a  stranger 
to  the  deadly  bigotry  of  his  Moslem  neighbour.  He  neither 
persecutes,  nor  even  brands  as  impious,  those  whose  reli- 
gious views  differ  the  most  widely  from  his  own.  There  is 
only  one  point  on  which  his  faith  assumes  a  savage  character, 
and  displays  darker  than  inquisitorial  horrors.  The  hope 
of  an  immortal  destiny,  dimly  working  in  the  blinded  hu- 
man heart,  leads  to  the  wildest  errors.  The  despot,  the 
object  of  boundless  homage  on  earth,  seeks  to  transport  all 
his  pomp,  and  the  crowd  of  his  attendants,  to  his  place  in 
the  future  world.  His  death  must  be  celebrated  by  the  cor- 
responding sacrifice  of  a  numerous  band  of  slaves,  of  wives 
and  of  courtiers :  their  blood  must  water  his  grave ;  and 
the  sword  of  the  rude  warrior,  once  drawn,  does  not  readily 
stop  ; — a  general  massacre  often  takes  place,  and  the  ca 
pitals  of  these  barbarian  chiefs  are  seen  to  stream  with  blood. 
This  horrid  system  is  not  exclusively  African  ;  but  it  else- 
where exists  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  is  attached  to  a  state 
of  society  much  more  decidedly  savage. 

In  regard  to  the  social  aspect  of  this  continent,  the  unim- 
proved condition  in  which  it  appears  may  be  regarded  as 
that  perhaps  in  which  violence  and  wrong  have  the  widest 
field,  and  cause  the  most  dreadful  calamities  to  the  hu 
man  race.  The  original  simplicity,  founded  on  the  absence 
of  all  objects  calculated  to  excite  turbulent  desires  and  pas- 
sions, has  disappeared,  while  its  place  is  not  yet  supplied  by 
the  restraints  of  law  and  the  refinements  of  civilized  society. 
War,  the  favourite  pursuit,  is  therefore  carried  on  with  the 
most  unrelenting  fury  ;  and  robbery,  on  a  great  and  national 
scale,  is  generally  prevalent.  Brilliant  and  costly  articles 
already  exist ;  but  these  are  distributed  with  an  inequality 
which  the  needy  warrior  seeks  by  his  sword  to  redress. 
African  robbery  is  not  perpetrated  by  concealed  or  proscribed 
rufifians,  who  shrink  from  the  eye  of  man,  and  are  the  out- 
casts of  social  life.  It  is  not  even  confined  to  the  poor  tribes 
of  the  Desert,  who  see  caravans  laden  with  immense  wealth 


236  SOCIAL    CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

pass  along  their  borders.  Princes,  kings,  and  the  mogt 
distinguished  warriors  consider  it  a  glory  to  place  them- 
selves at  the  head  of  an  expedition  undertaken  solely  for 
the  purposes  of  plunder. 

Slavery  seems  also  to  belong  to  the  barbarian  state.  Man 
has  emerged  from  the  limited  wants  of  savage  life,  and  sees 
productions  of  art,  which  he  eagerly  covets,  without  having 
acquired  those  habits  of  steady  industry  by  which  he  might 
earn  them  for  himself.  His  remedy  is  to  compel  those  whom 
his  superior  strength,  or  any  other  advantage,  enables  him 
to  bring  under  subjection,  to  labour  in  supplying  his  wants. 
Often  the  blind  and  spontaneous  veneration  of  those  tribes 
for  their  chiefs  causes  them  to  sink  into  voluntary  slavery  ; 
many  again  are  made  captive  in  war  ;  and  generally  a  great 
part  of  the  population  of  every  barbarous  society  is  placed 
in  a  state  of  bondage. 

From  the  two  evUs  above  described  arises  a  third,  stift 
darker, — the  stealing  of  human  beings  in  order  to  make 
them  slaves.  This  is  perpetrated  widely  throughout  Africa, 
and  attended  with  every  circumstance  of  crime  and  horror. 
It  is  an  enormity  also  in  which  the  greatest  sovereigns  do  not 
scruple  to  participate.  Their  troops  surround  a  town  in  the 
dead  of  night,  watching  till  the  first  dawn,  when  the  gates 
are  opened  ; — they  then  rush  in,  set  fire  to  it,  and  while  the 
victims,  with  shrieks  and  cries,  are  seeking  to  escape,  bind 
and  carry  them  off  into  slavery.  It  must  be  confessed,  at 
the  same  time,  that  the  unrelenting  and  atrocious  spirit  of 
this  warfare  has  been  in  a  great  measure  produced  by  fo- 
reign connexion,  either  with  the  European  powers,  or  with 
Northern  Africa,  Turkey,  and  other  Mohammedan  states. 

Notwithstanding  so  many  evils,  however,  we  may  again 
repeat,  that  an  unvaried  cloud  of  moral  darkness  does  not 
hang  over  Africa.  The  negro  character  appears  to  be  dis- 
tinguished by  some  features  unusually  amiable,  by  a  pecu- 
liar warmth  of  the  social  affections,  and  by  a  close  adhe- 
rence to  kindred  ties.  If  some  travellers  have  been  ill- 
treated  and  plundered,  others  have  been  relieved  with  the 
most  signal  and  generous  hospitality.  The  negro,  unless 
when  under  the  influence  of  some  violent  excitement,  is,  on 
the  whole,  more  mild,  hospitable,  and  liberal  than  the 
Moor  ;  it  is  by  the  latter  race  that  the  atrocities  against  Eu- 
ropean travellers  have  been  chiefly  perpetrated. 

In  the  political  arrangements  of  the  African  states  there 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  237 

occur  some  singular  anomalies.  A  bold  and  independent  spirit 
has  been  supposed  to  characterize  man  in  a  rude  and  un- 
civilized condition  ;  and,  accordingly,  a  number  of  petty 
communities  here  present  an  aristocratic,  and  sometimes 
even  a  republican  form.  But  all  the  great  kingdoms  are 
subject  to  the  most  complete  and  abject  despotism.  Thou- 
sands of  brave  warriors  bend  down  to  one  of  their  fellow- 
mortals  with  a  profound  and  servile  abasement,  never  wit- 
nessed in  polished  or,  as  we  call  them,  corrupted  societies. 
Examples  so  frequent  and  striking  have  occurred  in  the 
course  of  this  narrative,  that  we  need  not  adduce  any  other 
illustration.  It  deserves  particular  notice  that  the  nations 
in  this  degrading  condition  are  the  most  numerous,  the  most 
powerful,  and  most  advanced  in  all  the  arts  and  improve- 
ments of  life ;  that,  if  we  except  the  human  sacrifices  to 
which  blind  veneration  prompts  them,  they  display  even  a 
disposition  more  amiable,  manners  more  dignified  and 
polished,  and  moral  conduct  more  correct,  than  prevail 
among  the  citizens  of  the  small  free  states,  who  are 
usually  idle,  turbulent,  quarrelsome,  and  licentious.  Bad, 
therefore,  as  absolute  power  is  in  itself,  there  appears,  ne- 
vertheless, in  the  disposition  shown  by  man  to  submit  to  it 
in  this  uncultivated  state,  something  salutary,  and  which 
even  tends  to  his  ultimate  improvement. 

The  foreign  races  who  have  settled  in  Africa  by  migra- 
tion and  conquest  are  found  fully  established  in  the  fine 
country  along  the  Mediterranean.  The  inroad  of  the  Arabs 
or  Saracens,  and  the  subsequent  conquest  by  the  sultans, 
have  stamped  completely  their  character  on  this  vast  region. 
The  Turkish  sabre  and  the  Moslem  creed  lord  it  over 
these  ancient  seats  of  empire,  light,  and  civilization.  The 
remnants  of  the  native  tribes  are  either  sunk  in  degradation, 
as  the  Copts,  lurking  in  the  recesses  of  the  mountains,  or 
wandering  over  desert  plains,  as  the  Brebers,  the  Tibboos, 
and  the  Tuaricks.  The  once-varied  frame  of  society  is  now 
moulded  into  one  gloomy  monotony,  such  as  is  always  pro- 
duced by  the  influence  of  Mussulman  habits.  Turkish 
cities  exhibit  every  where  one  uniform  aspect ;  high  walls  of 
earth,  without  windows,  border  on  narrow  and  dirty  streets ; 
and  the  nakedness  and  desolation  of  the  exterior  often  form 
a  striking  contrast  with  the  barbarian  splendour  within.  A 
deep  and  grave  solemnity,  the  absence  of  all  gay  and  social 


238  SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

iT»eetings,  and  the  entire  seclusion  of  females,  produce  an 
effect  wholly  different  from  that  of  European  society.  In 
the  country,  the  Arab  population  is  simple  and  patriarchal ; 
yet  unhappily  no  strangers  to  violence  and  plunder  in  their 
very  worst  forms. 

The  two  races,  thus  strikingly  distinguished,  native  and 
foreign,  Mohammedan  and  pagan,  meet  and  mix  in  Cen- 
tral Africa,  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger,  and  on  the  other 
great  rivers  which  water  that  region.  Major  Rennell  con- 
siders the  stream  now  named  as  the  boundary  between  the 
Moors  and  negroes,  as  Pliny  conceived  it  to  separate  the 
Africans  from  the  Ethiopians ;  and  the  division,  though 
not  rigorously  correct,  is  yet,  in  a  general  sense,  conformable 
to  fact.  The  Moors  have  made  extensive  conversions,  and 
have  introduced  all  that  is  known  of  letters  or  writing  into 
the  interior  regions.  Yet  the  lurid  gleam  thus  shed  over 
benighted  Africa  serves  little  more  than  to  deepen  the  sur- 
rounding darkness.  This  sublime  art  is  prized,  not  as  the 
principal  means  of  enlightening  and  enlarging  the  human 
mind,  but  as  a  tool  of  the  magic  art, — an  instrument  for 
manufacturing  charms  and  fetiches,  to  be  sold  at  high  prices 
to  the  deluded  natives.  Only  a  few  of  the  great  sheiks  and 
doctors  read  even  the  Koran.  The  most  approved  mode  of 
imbibing  its  contents,  as  was  formerly  stated,  is  by  tracing 
the  characters  on  a  smooth  board  with  a  black  substance, 
then  washing  them  off,  and  swallowing  the  water.  Others, 
having  enclosed  the  Koran  in  a  large  silver  case,  bear  it 
constantly  about,  groaning  under  the  burden,  but  expecting 
from  it  the  greatest  spiritual  benefits. 

Bigotry  among  these  negro  converts  rises  to  a  still  higher 
pitch  ;  and  the  future  doom  of  the  unbeliever  is  considered 
even  more  assured  than  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Meantime  they  subject  him  to  the  earthly  miseries  of  foreigri 
and  distant  bondage  ;  for,  while  it  is  unlawful  to  enslave 
any  true  believer,  the  goods,  the  person,  nay,  the  whole 
property  of  the  Caffre  are  considered  as  rightfully  belonging 
to  the  children  of  the  prophet.  This  very  circumstance 
causes  a  secret  abatement  in  that  eager  spirit  of  proselytism 
which  bums  so  fiercely  among  the  adherents  of  the  Moslem 
creed.  They  cannot  be  insensible,  that  if  the  eyes  of  this 
host  of  unbelievers  were  enlightened,  they  themselvea 
would  forfeit  the  ground  on  which  they  rest  their  only  claim. 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  239 

now  m  full  exercise,  of  driving  them  by  thousands  to  the 
markets  of  Kano  and  Tripoli. 

In  general  we  may  observe,  that  while  the  Mohammedan 
converts  in  Central  Africa  are  so  intensely  bigoted  in  re- 
spect to  dogmas,  they  are  more  lax  in  practice  than  their 
brethren  of  Cairo  and  Tripoli.  The  females  arc  not  so 
closely  immured ;  and  the  men  seldom  adhere  to  that  pre- 
cept of  the  Koran  which  enjoins  abstinence  from  fermented 
liquors.  The  bouza,  or  acid  beer,  circulates  briskly  in  Mos- 
lem as  well  as  in  pagan  circles.  It  is  true  that  the  sove- 
reigns, who  are  usually  zealous  Mussulmans,  are  occasionally 
seized  with  a  paroxysm  of  zeal,  and  denounce  dreadful  pe- 
nalties against  all  who  indulge  in  this  beloved  liquor.  But 
this  proceeding,  being  extremely  unpopular,  causes  only  a 
transitory  emotion,  Avhich  soon  subsides,  and  affairs  resume 
their  wonted  course. 

The  Mohammedan  religion,  wherever  it  is  estabU&hed,  has 
abolished  the  horrors  of  human  sacrifice, — a  great  and  im- 
portant good.  In  all  other  respects,  the  introduction  of  this 
foreign  race  and  foreign  creed  seems  only  to  have  deepened 
the  evils  under  which  Africa  had  formerly  suffered. 

Colonization,  which  in  America  has  been  carried  to  so 
vast  an  extent,  filling  that  continent  ahnost  entirely  with  an 
European  population,  has  never  been  attempted  in  Africa, 
except  on  the  most  limited  scale.  By  much  the  largest  co- 
lony is  that  founded  by  the  Dutch  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
which  was  transferred  to  the  English  by  the  events  of  the 
last  war.  In  1827,  it  was  estimated  to  contain  a  population 
of  120,000,  being  nearly  double  the  amount  in  1798  ;  about 
47,000  were  Europeans,  28,000  Hottentots,  and  35,000 
slaves.  Cape  Town,  which  in  1824  comprised  a  population 
of  18,668,  has  probably  increased  to  upwards  of  20,000,  and 
is  now  quite  an  English  city,  having  newspapers,  a  "  South 
African  Journal"  devoted  to  literature  and  science,  and  many 
intelligent  inhabitants. 

Ten  years  ago,  under  the  severe  pressure  felt  in  Britain, 
from  the  scarcity  of  employment  and  subsistence,  several 
thousands  were  sent  out  to  occupy  the  district  of  Albany  iiv 
the  eastern  part  of  the  colony.  This  settlement  has  not 
been  prosperous  ;  and  the  expectation  that  it  would  prove  a 
thriving  agricultural  station  has,  for  the  present,  been  dis- 


240  SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

appointed.  The  severe  droughts,  and  periodical  imindations 
to  which  it  is  subject,  have  been  found  to  render  the  raising 
of  grain  of  every  kind  very  precarious,  and  obliged  the  co- 
lonists to  have  recourse  to  pasturage  ;  while  the  lots  are  too 
small  to  render  the  latter  mode  of  industry  sufficiently  pro- 
ductive. They  consist,  according  to  Mr.  Thompson,  of  only 
100  acres,  which  are  not  capable  of  supporting  above  twelve 
oxen  and  cows.  The  Dutch  settlers  usually  held  6000 
acres,  for  which  they  paid  merely  the  expenses  of  measur- 
ing and  survey,  amounting  to  between  300  and  600  dollars, 
with  a  quit-rent  of  from  thirty  to  fifty.  To  obtain  this 
quantity  of  land,  the  British  settlers  must  carry  out  fifty- 
nine  sen'ants  (who  it  is  true  have  their  passage  paid  by 
government),  depositing  10/.  for  each ;  which,  with  their 
support  for  three  years,  would  exceed  six  times  the  value 
of  the  property.  In  1825,  after  three  unfavourable  har\'ests, 
the  distress  of  the  colony  became  extreme,  and  a  subscrip- 
tion of  not  less  than  3000/.  was  raised  in  Cape  Town  for 
their  relief.  A  number  then  left  the  settlement ;  after 
which,  the  condition  of  those  who  remained  gradually  im- 
proved, and  is  now^  becoming  comfortable.  Mr.  Thompson, 
however,  recommends  to  emigrants  who  possess  any  capital 
to  purchase  land  from  the  Dutch  boors  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cape;  manyofwhom,possessinglotsofnearly  100,000 acres, 
■would  willingly  dispose  of  part  of  their  grants  for  money. 

To  make  head  against  the  irruption  of  the  CaflTres,  a  body 
of  military  are  stationed  at  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  co- 
lony, who,  in  conjunction  with  the  Albany  settlers,  have 
formed  Graham's  Town,  the  inhabitants  of  which  amount 
to  about  3000.  Mr.  Rose,  who  was  lately  there,  describes 
it  as  "  a  large,  ugly,  ill-built,  straggling  place,  containing  a 
strange  mixture  of  lounging  officers,  idle  tradesmen,  drunken 
soldiers,  and  still  more  drunken  settlers."  Its  situation  is 
romantic,  being  a  deep  hollow  surrounded  by  high  green 
hills,  separated  by  glens  overhung  by  steep  and  wooded 
precipices.  These  glens  form  the  roads,  which  branch  off 
like  rays  from  a  centre,  and  through  them  are  seen  labour- 
ing heavy  wagons,  drawn  by  oxen,  frequently  coming  from 
very  remote  districts.  They  bring  not  only  provisions  and 
necessaries,  but  the  rude  products  of  the  surrounding  re- 
gions,— skins  of  the  lion  and  leopard,  horns  of  the  buffalo^ 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  2^1 

eggs  and  feathers  of  the  ostrich,  tusks  of  the  elephant  and 
hippopotamus,  and  rich  fur  mantles. 

It  would  be  improper  to  omit  mentioning  in  this  place 
the  benevolent  and  persevering  exertions  of  the  Moravian 
and  other  missionaries,  who,  in  that  distant  quarter  of  the 
continent,  have  made  indefatigable  exertions  for  the  instruc- 
tion and  improvement  of  the  miserable  natives.  They  have 
not  only  communicated  to  them  the  light  of  true  religion, 
but  have  successfully  laboured  to  better  their  temporal  cir- 
cumstances, and  communicate  habits  of  order,  cleanliness, 
and  industry.  The  missionary  stations  now  extend  north- 
ward to  Lattakoo,  and  eastward  into  the  country  of  the 
CafFres  ;  and  they  are  daily  assuming  a  wider  range. 

By  far  the  most  persevering  attempt  made  by  Britain  to 
form  a  colony  in  Africa  applies  to  that  founded  at  Sierra 
Leone,  originating  in  the  most  benevolent  motives,  and  con- 
ducted under  the  patronage  of  highly  distinguished  charac- 
ters. It  had  for  its  object  the  improvement  of  the  conti- 
nent, as  well  as  the  diminution  and  final  abolition  of  the 
African  slave-trade.  In  1772,  a  celebrated  decision  by 
Lord  Mansfield  established  the  principle,  that  a  negro,  from 
tne  moment  he  sets  foot  on  British  ground,  becomes  free. 
A  strong  interest  was  thus  excited  on  the  subject ;  and  a 
great  number  of  black  servants  having,  in  consequence  of 
the  above  judgment,  left  their  masters,  were  rambling  in  a 
somewhat  desolate  condition  in  the  streets  of  the  British 
metropolis.  On  learning  their  circumstances,  Mr.  Granville 
Sharp,  an  individual  of  unwearied  benevolence,  with  the 
advice  of  Mr.  Smeathman,  who  had  spent  a  considerable 
time  in  Africa,  formed  the  plan  of  transporting  them  into 
their  native  country,  to  lay  the  foundation  of  a  colony. 
Government  having  concurred  in  the  undertaking,  the  set- 
tlers were  sent  out  in  the  Nautilus,  Captain  Thompson,  and 
landed  on  the  9th  May,  1787,  upon  a  district  of  about 
twenty  square  miles,  purchased  from  Naimbanna,  the  king 
of  Sierra  Leone.  Unfortunately  these  negroes,  as  well  as 
about  sixty  whites,  chiefly  females,  sent  along  with  them, 
were  of  mixed  and  very  indifferent  characters.  A  great 
proportion  soon  fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate, — the  others 
showed  themselves  destitute  of  all  habits  of  industry,  and 
were  besides  severely  harassed  by  the  hostility  of  the  neigh 
bouring  tribes  ;  so  that,  by  the  year  1791,  the  whole  number 

A. 


242  SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA. 

was  reduced  to  sixty-four.  But  the  philanthropic  zeal 
which  prevailed  in  Britain  for  the  colonization  of  Africa 
suifered  no  abatement.  An  association  was  formed  under 
the  titles  of  the  St.  George's  Bay,  and  afterward  of  the 
Sierra  Leone  Company,  with  a  capital  of  250,000/.,  for 
the  prosecution  of  this  interesting  object ;  and  they  soon 
found  another  quarter  whence  a  supply  of  colonists  might 
be  drawn.  During  the  American  war,  a  number  of  negro 
slaves  in  the  revolted  colonies,  on  the  invitation  of  the  Bri- 
tish government,  had  deserted  their  masters  and  joined  her 
standard.  After  the  unfortunate  issue  of  the  contest,  these 
fugitives  claimed  the  fulfilment  of  a  promise  said  to  have 
been  made,  that  they  should  have  lands  allotted  for  their 
subsistence.  The  proffer  now  made  of  grants  on  their  na- 
tive shore,  and  in  a  more  congenial  climate,  was  cordially  ac- 
cepted. In  March,  1792,  they  were  landed  at  Sierra  Leone, 
to  the  amount  of  1131,  in  addition  to  100  Europeans  who 
had  arrived  in  the  preceding  month.  A  fever,  however, 
which  the  negroes  had  brought  with  them,  aggravated  by 
the  unhealthy  nature  of  the  climate,  carried  off  a  consider- 
able number ;  and  to  this  latter  cause  of  mortality  half  of  the 
European  settlers  fell  victims.  The  improvement  of  the 
colony  was  also  much  retarded  by  a  very  general  spirit  of 
insubordination ;  and,  in  1794,  it  was  barbarously  plundered 
by  a  French  squadron,  which  caused  losses  amounting  to 
upwards  of  50,000/.  However,  the  settlement  had  gra- 
dually recovered,  and  was  beginning  to  make  some  progress, 
when,  in  1800,  it  was  recruited  with  550  maroons,  or  insur- 
rectionary negroes  from  Jamaica,  who  had  been  originally 
transported  to  Nova  Scotia.  They  arrived  at  a  very  sea- 
sonable moment,  when  a  disturbance  had  just  broken  out 
among  the  original  body  of  negroes,  which  the  British 
crews  were  busily  employed  in  suppressing. 

Notwithstanding  all  that  had  been  done  for  the  miprove- 
ment  of  Sierra  Leone,  which  had  more  than  absorbed  the 
original  capital  of  the  company,  very  little  progress  was 
yet  made  towards  fulfilling  its  objects.  No  spirit  of  indus- 
try had  been  infused  into  the  inhabitants,  and  no  amicable 
connexions  formed  with  the  neighbouring  states.  The 
company  had  scarcely  the  means  of  supporting  it  any 
longer ;  but  there  appeared  reason  to  hope  that  the  more 
energetic  and  inflwential  efforts  of  government  might  yet 


SOCIAL  CONDITION  OF  AFRICA.  243 

overcome  the  obstacles  which  had  hitherto  baffled  the  most 
strenuous  efforts  ot  individuals.  Accordingly,  by  mutual 
agreement,  concluded  on  the  8th  August,  1§07,  and  carried 
into  effect  on  the  1st  January  following,  the  settlement  was 
surrendered  into  the  hands  of  the  crown,  and  placed  on  the 
same  footing  with  the  other  British  colonies. 

From  this  time  a  new  and  much  more  copious  source  of 
population  was  opened.  Since  the  year  just  mentioned, 
Britain  had  prohibited  her  own  subjects  from  carrying  on 
the  slave-trade,  and  she  had  afterward  obtained  an  assur- 
ance from  other  countries,  that  they  would  discontinue  it 
along  all  the  coast  northward  of  the  Line.  She  even  re- 
ceived permission  to  treat  as  pirates  such  of  their  subjects 
as  within  those  limits  might  be  found  employed  in  the  con- 
veyance of  slaves.  In  her  zeal  for  the  abolition  of  this 
odious  traffic,  she  has  maintained  a  number  of  ships  con- 
stantly watching  those  seas,  and  capturing  every  vessel 
thus  unlawfully  laden.  The  liberated  negroes  are  brought 
to  Sierra  Leone,  where  they  are  located  in  the  surrounding 
villages.  For  some  time  they  receive  rations,  and  are  kept 
in  pretty  strict  subordination  ;  but,  after  a  certain  period, 
they  obtain  assignments  of  ground,  from  which  to  earn 
their  own  subsistence.  On  the  31st  March,  1827,  the 
slaves  thus  liberated  amounted  to  11,878,  of  which  there 
were  4701  males  above  and  1875  under  fourteen  ;  2717  fe- 
males above  and  1517  under  that  age ;  besides  1068  settled  in 
Freetown,  or  employed  on  the  river  in  the  timber  trade.  On 
the  31st  December,  1828,  the  number  had  been  increased  by 
new  arrivals  to  16,886.  Unfortunately,  neither  their  pro- 
gress in  industry  and  civilization,  nor  the  general  prospe- 
rity of  the  colony,  has  answered  the  sanguine  expectations 
once  so  fondly  cherished.  The  efficiency  of  the  govern- 
ment has  been  much  impaired  by  various  errors  and  unfor- 
tunate circumstances,  and  above  all  by  the  singularly  dele- 
terious influence  of  the  climate  on  European  constitutions. 
This,  it  is  supposed,  is  owing  not  so  much  to  the  mere  heat, 
as  to  the  noxious  exhalations  arising  from  an  ill-regulated 
town,  and  an  uncultivated  country,  covered  with  such  a 
mass  of  brush  and  jungle  as  to  impede  the  necessary  venti- 
lation. The  result  is,  a  remittent  fever,  so  malignant  that 
almost  all  Europeans  are  attacked  with  it,  and  not  one  in 
three  recovers       These  circumstances  have  oftener  than 


244  GEOLOGV  OF  AFRICA. 

once  led  to  the  consideration  whether  Sierra  Leone  ought 
not  to  be  entirely  relinquished.  An  attempt  has  even  been 
recently  made  to  establish  in  its  room  a  colony  at  Fernando 
Po,  a  small  island  in  the  Gulf  of  Benin ;  but  the  expectations 
formed  from  its  climate  have  also  been  entirely  disappointed. 
Meantime,  it  is  considered  that  the  absolute  abandonment 
of  Sierra  Leone  w^ould  leave  full  scope  for  the  contraband 
slave-trade,  and  frustrate  all  hopes  of  establishing  a  centre 
whence  civilization  might  hereafter  spread  throughout 
Africa.  The  latest  accounts  from  the  governors,  Colonel 
Denham,  in  1827  and  1828,  and  Major  Ricketts,  in  1829, 
express  a  decided  opinion  that  a  spirit  of  improvement  is  at 
last  beginning  to  be  manifested, — that  the  inhabitants  show 
a  disposition  to  cultivate  the  ground,  and  an  anxiety  to  be 
able  to  purchase  European  luxuries,— and  that  in  the 
villages,  particularly  of  Wellington  and  Waterloo,  good 
churches,  and  a  few  stone  houses,  have  been  erected.  The 
annual  expenditure  has  been  reduced  to  about  40,000Z.,  of 
which  17,000Z.  is  for  liberated  Africans  ;  and  government 
seems  desirous  to  retain  the  settlement,  till  the  natives  shall 
be  so  far  improved  as  to  be  able  to  conduct  their  own  ad- 
ministration, and  to  afford  an  example  of  industry  and  order 
to  the  neighbouring  states. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Geology  of  Africa.* 

Africa  is  distinguished  from  the  other  continents  by  its 
nearly  insular  form,  being  connected  with  Asia  merely  by 
an  inconsiderable  neck  of  land  or  isthmus,  viz.  that  of 
Suez.  It  extends  from  the  equator  to  about  the  average 
latitude  of  35°  north,  and  also  to  the  same  degree  of  lati- 
tude south.  The  greatest  length  from  north  to  south  is 
from  Cape  Serrat  in  Algiers,  in  lat.  37°  18'  N.,  to  Cape 

*  According  to  some  authors,  the  n«me  Africa  is  derived  from  a,  neg., 
tinAfrigxis,  cold ;  while  otherd  trace  it  from  a  small  Carthaginian  districl 
named  Frigi— A-frikc-a. 


AFRICAN  REGIONS  245 

liaguillas,  inlat.  34°  55'  S. ;  and  the  greatest  breadth  from 
Cape  Verde,  in  long.  17°  31'  W.,  to  Cape  Guardafui,  in 
long.  51°  15'  E.  The  northern  portion  of  this  continent 
is  fully  twice  the  size  of  the  southern  portion,  and  may  be 
considered  as  about  equal  to  South  America ;  while  the 
southern  half  is  contracted  to  half  the  breadth  of  the  north- 
ern part,  and  is  nearly  about  the  size  of  New-Holland. 
The  shape  of  the  corresponding  coasts  of  Africa  and  Ame- 
rica would  induce  us  to  infer  that  the  two  continents  of  Africa 
and  America  were  once  united, — the  projecting  or  salient 
part  of  the  former  fitting  exactly  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ; 
and  the  bulging  part  of  South  America,  about  Paraiba  and 
Pernambuco,  being  about  the  size  and  shape  to  fill  up  the 
Gulf  of  Guinea.  This  great  continent  has  but  compara- 
tively few  gulfs,  bays,  anns  of  the  sea,  and  promontories ; 
and  hence,  notwithstanding  its  nearly  insular  form,  its  ex- 
tent of  coast  is  much  less  in  proportion  to  its  area,  than  in 
other  quarters  of  the  globe.  The  condition  of  man,  the 
distribution  of  the  lower  animals  and  plants,  even  the  cli- 
mate of  Africa,  are  intimately  connected  with  thi^  limited 
extent  of  coast. 

On  viewing  Africa  from  its  northern  boundary  on  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  to  its  southern  boundary  at 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  following  natural  divisions  or 
regions  present  themselves  to  our  attention  : — 

1.  The  northern  region,  formed  by  the  Atlas  range  of 
mountains,  hills,  and  plains,  that  extend  from  the  coast  of 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of  the  Syrtis, — and  by  the  range 
of  fertile  hills  and  dales,  and  valleys  mixed  with  deserts,  in 
which  are  some  insulated  spots  of  verdure,  known  under 
the  name  oase,*  that  extend  from  the  termination  of  the 
Atlas  to  Egypt.! 

2.  The  eastern  region^  formed  by  Egypt,  Abyssinia,  Dai 
fur,  &c. 

*  The  word  Oasis  ia  Egyptian,  and  synonymous  with  Auasis  and 
Hyasis  (Strabo,  Ixxiii.  p.  A)m  1140).  Atnlfeda  names  the  Oasis  Al 
Wahat.  In  latter  times  the  Cesars  banished  criminals  to  the  Oases. 
They  were  sentenced  to  expiate  their  crimes  on  the  islands  of  the  Sandy 
Sea,  as  the  Spaniards  and  English  send  their  criminals  to  the  Malouin 
islands  and  New-Holland.  The  latter  could  more  easily  escape  by  the 
ocean,  than  the  former  across  the  surrounding  deserts. 

t  The  Atlas  of  Homer  and  Hesiod,  according  to  Bory  St.  Vincent,  is 
the  Peak  of  Teneriffe ;  the  Atlas  of  the  Greek  aiid  Roman  geographers, 
lUo  African  Atlas  range  of  mountains. 
X2 


246   GEOLOGY  OF  THE  ATLAS  MOUNTAINS.' 

3.  The  Desert  region^  which  is  the  flat,  comparatively 
low  tract  of  generally  desert  country,  of  which  the  principal 
portion  is  the  Great  Desert  of  Sahara,  which  lies  between 
the  29th  and  16th  parallels,  or  about  780  miles  in  breadth, 
and  extending  across  the  continent  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  borders  of  Nubia. 

4.  The  Region  of  Soudan,  Nigritia,  or  the  Country  of  the 
iNegroes,  extending  in  a  belt  across  the  continent  as  far  as 
Abyssinia,  and  from  the  16th  to  the  5th  parallel,  or  about 
600  miles  in  breadth.  It  is  a  rich  and  fertile  region,  yield- 
ing, with  little  labour,  all  the  valuable  productions  of  the 
tropical  countries. 

5.  Great  Table-land  of  Africa,  or  High  Africa. — This, 
in  all  probability,  very  interesting  part  of  Africa  extends 
from  the  zone  of  Nigritia  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It 
appears  to  contain  a  lofty  and  extensive  table-land,  from 
which  acclivities,  supporting  ranges  of  mountains,  decline 
on  the  east  and  south  towards  the  Indian  Ocean ;  on  the 
west  to  the  Atlantic ;  and  on  the  north  to  the  Country  of 
Soudan  or  Nigritia.  Unfortunately  the  whole  of  this  great 
region,  with  exception  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
the  Portuguese  settlements  on  the  east  and  west  coasts,  be- 
tween which  they  are  said  to  keep  up  a  communication,  is 
unknown  to  us  ;  so  that  there  still  remains  a  tract  of  coun- 
try, at  the  least  30  degrees  of  latitude  by  25  of  longitude, 
or  about  2,600,000  square  geographical  miles,  of  which 
nothing  whatever  is  known.  Now  that  the  thirst  for 
Arctic  discovery  has  been  quenched,  and  the  public  feeling 
has  set  strongly  against  expeditions  to  Central  Africa,  we 
trust  that  our  government  will  be  the  first  to  engage  in  the 
exploration  of  the  great  table-land  of  Southern  Africa. 

Having  premised  this  short  account  of  the  general  fea- 
tures of  Africa,  we  shall  now  state  what  is  known  of  its 
geolosry  and  mineralogy,  following  in  our  account  the  great 
natural  divisions  already  pointed  out. 

1.  Geology  of  the  Atlas,  or  Northern  Region  of  Africa.* — 
The  northern  division  of  Africa  is  principally  characterized 
by  the  Atlas  chain  of  mountain-ranges,  on  some  of  the 
loftiest  points  of  which  there  is  perpetual  snow,  which  gives 
them  a  height  of  12,000  to  13,000  feet  above  the  level  of 

•  The  Egyptian,  Abyssinian,  and  bordering  African  districts  will  be 
considered  in  one  of  the  succeeding  vulumos  of  this  work. 


AGE  OF  THE  ATLAS  MOUNTAINS.      247 

the  sea.  In  it  there  are  rocks  of  the  primitive  class,  as 
granite,  gneiss,  mica-slate,  and  clay-slate.  Copper  and 
lead  mines,  said  to  occur  in  the  primitive  parts  of  the  range, 
were  worked  by  the  ancients  in  Morocco  and  Algiers,  but 
are  at  present  neglected ;  and  the  same  is  also  the  case 
with  the  antimony  and  tin  (l)  said  to  have  been  discovered 
in  these  mountains.  In  Tunis,  rock-crystals,  graphite,  or 
black-lead,  and  also  iron  and  galena,  are  met  with  in  the 
same  kinds  of  rock.  Although  in  extensive  mountain- 
ranges  the  older  rocks,  or  those  of  the  primitive  class,  gene- 
rally predominate,  such,  according  to  travellers,  is  not  the 
case  with  the  Atlas,  where  the  most  extensive  deposites  are 
of  a  calcareous  nature.  This  calcareous  formation  consists 
principally  of  secondary  limestones,  associated  with  depo- 
sites of  sandstone.  The  limestone  abounds  with  organic 
remains,  as  of  shells,  corals,  and  even  fishes  ;  and  is  said 
to  be  referable  to  the  various  limestones  extending  from 
the  lias,  or  even  the  magnesian  limestone,  to  chalk  inclu- 
sive. Hence  in  this  limestone-range  there  are  magnesian 
limestones,  oolite  limestones,  lias  limestones,  Jura  lime- 
stones, and  soft  limestones  resembling  some  kinds  of  chalk. 
Resting  upon  these  limestones,  or  where  they  are  wanting, 
as  is  the  case  at  Algiers,  there  are  deposites  of  tertiary 
rocks  ;  these  are  marly  clays  and  limestones,  with  organic 
remains  resembling  those  met  with  in  the  tertiary  deposites 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  Mediterranean.  Salt  springs  and 
gypsum  are  mentioned  as  occurring  in  different  parts  of  the 
range.  These  may  be  connected  either  with  the  secondary 
or  tertiary,  or  with  both  classes  of  rocks. 

Trap-rocks,  of  a  modem  date,  also  make  their  appearance 
among  the  rocks  of  the  northern  African  zone.  The  most 
extensive  display  of  these  Plutonian  masses  is  in  the  lime- 
stone in  some  districts  to  the  south  of  Tripoli,  where  these 
rocks  alter  the  position  and  change  the  characters  of  the 
limestone. 

Age  of  the  Atlas  Mountains. — It  is  conjectured,  by  some 
geologists,  that  the  great  ranges  of  mountains  of  the  earth 
have  risen  from  below,  through  rents  in  previously  existing 
strata,  and  not  all  at  once,  but  at  different  times ;  and  fur- 
ther, that  all  mountain  ranges  having  the  same  general 
direction  have  made  their  appearance  from  below  at  the 


248  AGE  OF  THE  ATLAS  MOUNTAINS. 

same  time.  Thus  the  Pyrenees  and  Apennines,  the  moun* 
tains  of  Dalmatia  and  Croatia,  and  the  Carpathians,  which 
belong  to  the  same  system, — as  may  be  deduced  from  the 
descriptions  given  of  them  by  various  geologists, — are  all 
disposed  parallel  to  an  arc  of  a  great  circle,  vehich  passes 
through  Natchez  and  the  mouth  of  the  Persian  Gulf. 
Thus,  whatever  may  have  been  the  cause,  the  mountains 
in  Europe,  which  have  issued  from  the  earth  at  the  same 
period,  form  chains  at  the  surface  of  the  globe, — that  is  to 
say,  longitudinal  projections,  all  parallel  to  a  certain  circle 
of  the  sphere.  If  we  suppose,  as  is  natural,  that  this  rule 
may  be  applicable  beyond  the  limits  within  which  it  has 
been  determined,  the  Alleghanies  of  North  America, — since 
their  direction  is  also  parallel  to  the  great  circle  which 
joins  Natchez  and  the  Persian  Gulf, — would  seem  to  be- 
long, in  respect  to  date,  to  the  Pyrenean  system.  Elie 
Beaumont  has  been  able  to  verify  the  accuracy  of  this  in- 
ference by  a  careful  examination  of  the  descriptions  of 
American  geologists.  It  would  appear  from  this  statement 
that  we  might  venture  to  conclude  that  the  mountains  of 
Greece,  the  mountains  situated  to  the  north  of  the  Eu- 
phrates, and  the  chain  of  Gates  in  India,  which  also  come 
under  this  condition  of  parallelism  already  indicated,  must 
have  risen,  like  the  Alleghanies,  along  with  the  Pyrenees 
and  Apennines.  If  we  apply  this  reasoning  to  the  Atlas, 
which  we  fmd  to  have  the  same  general  direction  as  the 
Alps  of  Switzerland,  from  the  Valais  to  Styria,  and  with 
that  of  the  Caucasus,  the  Balkan  Mountains,  and  the  Him- 
ftialeh  Mountains,  we  infer  that  these  vast  ranges,  and  also 
the  Atlas,  may  have  risen  at  the  same  period.  But  at 
■what  period  did  this  elevation  take  place  1  This  can  be 
'  answered  in  a  general  way,  by  remarking,  that  in  Switzer- 
land the  principal  chain  of  the  Alps  appears  to  have  up- 
raised all  the  secondary,  and  also  the  tertiary  strata ;  hence, 
according  to  the  opinion  already  stated,  these  Swiss  moun- 
tains, and  consequently  the  Atlas  and  other  ranges,  already 
mentioned,  may  have  risen  from  below  at  a  comparatively 
recent  period, — after  the  deposition  of  the  tertiary  rocks. 
Allowing  this  hypothesis  to  be  plausible,  it  could  be  show* 
that  an  opinion  of  the  ancients, — that,  namely,  which  main 
tains  that  the  whole  countrv  between  the  Syrtis  and  tb' 


GEOLOGY  OP  THE  SAHARA.        249 

Atlantic,  over  which  the  Atlas  chain  extends,  was  formerly 
insulated,  and  in  that  state  formed  the  celebrated  Atlantis^ 
—is  not  destitute  of  geological  probability.* 

2.  Geology  of  the  Desert,  or  Sahara  Region. — The  se- 
cond, or  Sahara  region,  is  eminently  characterized  by  its 
vast  desert  of  sand,  the  greatest  and  most  frightful  on  the 
face  of  the  earth.  On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by  a  rocky 
limestone  wall  to  the  west  of  the  Nile,  and  a  series  of  oases 
and  deserts  extending  from  Darfiir  to  the  Libyan  Desert : 
on  the  north  by  a  range  of  oases  and  the  flat  and  interest- 
ing country  along  the  southern  foot  of  the  Atlas  chain  :  on 
the  west  by  the  ocean  :  and,  towards  the  south,  it  ceases  in 
about  15°  N.lat.,  sloping  gradually  down  to  the  fertile  and 
well-watered  country  of  Bomou  on  the  east,  Houssa  in  the 
centre,  and  the  regions  to  the  westward  of  Timbuctoo. 
Houssa  and  Bomou  comprehend  that  region 'of  Africa 
known  by  the  name  Soudan,  or  Land  of  the  Blacks. 

The  Sahara  may  be  considered  as  divided  into  an  eastern 
and  a  western  half.  Its  eastern  and  smaller  halt  is  more 
varied  by  rocks,  and  cliflfs,  and  oases,  than  the  western  and 
larger,  which  forms  a  vast  sea  of  moving  sand,  well  merit- 
ing the  Arabian  name,  Sahara  Bela-ma,  or  sea  without 
water.  The  Western  Sahara  is  bounded  on  the  east  in  a 
line  which  passes  through  Fezzan,  extending  towards  the 
south  into  Soudan,  and  towards  the  north  to  the  Atlas. 
On  many  parts  of  the  seacoast  it  extends  under  the  sea, 
forming  enormous  sand  banks  ;  and  along  the  coast  there 
are  extensive  ranges  of  downs  or  sand  hills.  The  coast  is 
very  dangerous,  and  much  dreaded  by  seamen.  Ship- 
wrecks frequently  take  place,  and  the  unfortunate  survivors 
are  carried  off  by  the  savages  into  a  state  of  the  most  de- 
plorable slavery.  Cape  Blanco,  so  well  known  to  mariners, 
is  not  a  rocky  headland,  but  a  flat  sandy  projecting  white 
tongue  of  land,  destitute  of  vegetation.  The  sand  hills 
continue  down  to  Cape  Verde, — a  promontory  distinguished 
by  its  two  lofty  hills  of  sand,  rising  to  a  height  of  600  feet, 
and  overlooking  the  smaller  surrounding  downs,  and  form- 
ing a  warning  landmark,  seen  by  sailors  at  a  great  distance. 

*  The  particular  geology  of  the  Northern  Region,  which  will  include 
descriptions  of  Morocco,  Fez,  Algiers  Tunis,  and  Tripoli,  will  appear  in 
a  future  volume  of  this  Library,  the  present  volume  being  confined  prin- 
cipally to  tUe  Central  and  Southern  Regions  of  Africa. 


250      SUBTERRANEAN  VILLAGES  NEAR  TRIPOLI. 

From  the  entrance  of  Gonzalo  da  Cintra,  on  the  coast  of 
Barbary,  to  Cape  Verde,  all  the  elevated  points  of  solid 
rock  are  said  to  be  of  igneous  origin :  thus  Cape  Barbas, 
Cape  Blanco,  Cape  Manuel,  and  Cape  Verde  are  composed 
of  basalt  and  lava.  All  the  islands,  too,  along  this  west 
coast  we  of  igneous  origin. 

In  this  vast  waste  there  are  a  few  oases  and  wadeys,  or 
valleys,  in  which  springs  of  water  are  found,  and  shrubby 
plants,  chiefly  acacias,  and  tufts  of  grass.  It  is  inhabited 
only  by  pastoral  tribes,  who  roam  about  from  one  oar^is  to 
another,  where  a  little  verdure  may  be  found.  Some  of 
these  tribes  add  to  their  scanty  means  of  subsistence  the 
plunder  of  such  feeble  caravans  as  they  may  venture  to 
attack;  and  others  are  employed  in  collecting  salt  and  natron 
for  the  markets  of  Bornou  and  Soudan.  For  hundreds  of 
miles  not  an  oasis  is  seen,  the  surface  being  one  continued 
plain ;  in  some  places  blown  up  into  high  ridges,  in  others 
presenting  undulations  like  the  waves  of  the  sea.  In  parts 
of  the  Desert,  insulated  hills,  or  ridges  of  hills  of  naked  sand- 
stone, sometimes  also  of  granite,  rise  through  the  sandy 
surface,  appearing  like  so  many  islands  in  the  ocean. 

Account  of  the  Line  of  Desert  from  Tripoli  to  the  Lake 
Tchad. — The  line  of  desert,  extending  from  Tripoli  by 
Mourzouk  to  Kouka,  has  been  described  by  our  former 
pupil  the  late  excellent  and  intelligent  traveller  Dr.  Oudney, 
and  by  his  enterprising  fellow-travellers  Clapperton  and 
Denham.  As  the  account  is  novel  and  interesting,  we  shall 
now  lay  some  details  illustrative  of  it  before  our  readers ; 
occasionally,  also,  referring  to  the  observations  of  another 
well-known  African  traveller,  Captain  Lyon.* 

Subterranean  Villages. — All  around  Tripoli  the  prevail- 
ing rocks  are  of  limestone, — partly  of  secondary,  partly,  it 
is  said,  of  tertiary  formation.  The  Arab  inhabitants  of  the 
Gharian  limestone  mountains  in  Tripoli  live  under  ground^ 
-—a  circumstance  worthy  of  being  particularly  recorded,  on 
account  of  its  connexion  with  the  ancient  history  of  man, 

*  To  those  interested  in  African  adventure,  we  recommend  an  in- 
teresting little  volume  just  puhlishfd,  entitled,  "  A  Biographical  Memoir 
of  the  late  Dr.  Walter  Oudney  and  Captiiin  Hugh  Clapperton,  both  of  tho 
royal  navy,  and  Major  Alexander  Gordon  Laing,  all  of  whom  died  afiiid 
their  active  and  enterprising  endeavours  to  explore  the  interior  of  Africa. 
By  the  Rev.  Thomas  Nelson,  Member  of  the  Wemerian  Society,  &c  • 
l2mo.  Edmburgh,  1«30,  by  Waugh  and  Innea. 


SUBTERRANEAN  VILLAGES  NEAR  TRIPOLI.      251 

and  also  his  present  condition  in  some  countries.  Captain 
Lyon  says, — "  We  stopped  at  a  nest,  I  cannot  call  it  a  vil- 
lage, where  all  the  habitations  are  under  giound.  The 
sheik,  on  hearing  we  were  under  the  protection  of  the 
bashaw,  came  to  welcome  us,  and  gave  us  the  only  hut  the 
place  afforded,  in  which  we  placed  our  people  and  camel- 
ioads.  As  for  ourselves,  we  preferred  clearing  part  of  the 
farm-yard,  and  pitching  our  tent  in  it,  surrounded  by  our 
horses  and  camels.  This  place  is  called  Beni-Abbas.  As 
the  natives  live,  as  I  have  observed,  under  ground,  a  person 
unacquainted  with  the  circumstance  might  cross  the  moun- 
tain without  once  suspecting  that  it  was  inhabited.  All 
the  dwelling-places  beins  formed  in  the  same  manner,  a  de- 
scription of  the  sheik's  may  suffice  for  the  rest.  The  upper 
soil  is  sandy  earth,  of  about  four  feet  in  depth ;  under  this 
sand,  and  in  some  places  limestone,  a  large  hole  is  dug,  to 
the  depth  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet,  and  its  breadth  in 
every  direction  is  about  the  same,  being,  as  nearly  as  can 
be,  a  perfect  square.  The  rock  is  then  smoothed  so  as  to 
form  perpendicular  sides  to  this  space,  in  which  doors  are 
cut  through,  and  arched  chambers  excavated,  so  as  to  re- 
ceive their  light  from  the  doors.  The  rooms  are  sometimes 
three  or  four  of  a  side  ;  in  others,  a  whole  side  composes 
one, — the  arrangements  depending  on  the  number  of  in- 
habitants. In  the  open  court  is  generally  a  well,  water 
being  found  at  ten  or  twelve  feet  below  the  base  of  the 
square.  The  entrance  to  the  house  is  at  about  thirty-six 
yards  from  the  pit,  and  opens  above  ground.  It  is  arched 
overhead,  is  generally  cut  in  a  winding  direction,  and  is 
perfectly  dark.  Some  of  these  passages  are  sufficiently 
large  to  admit  a  loaded  camel.  The  entrance' has  a  strong 
wall  built  over  it,  something  resembling  an  ice-house. 
This  is  covered  overhead,  and  has  a  very  strong  heavy 
door,  which  is  shut  at  night,  or  in  cases  of  danger.  At 
about  ten  yards  from  the  bottom  is  another  door,  equally 
strong ;  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  enter  these  houses 
should  the  inhabitants  determine  to  resist.  Few  Arab  at- 
tacks last  long  enough  to  end  in  a  siege.  All  their  sheep 
and  poultry  being  confined  in  the  house  at  night,  the 
bashaw's  army,  when  here,  had  recourse  to  suffocating  the 
inmates,  being  unabie  to  starve  them  out."  Again,  at 
page  29,  he  says, — "  At  noon,  we  arrived  at  a  cluster  of 


252  SUBTERRANEAN  VILLAGES. 

nests  about  six  miles  from  Beni-Abbas  :  all  the  habitations 
of  this  place  are  of  the  same  kind  as  those  already  de- 
scribed." 

Colonel  Silvertop,  in  an  interesting  memoir  on  the  La- 
custrine Basins  of  Baza  and  Alhama,  in  the  New  Edin- 
burgh Philosophical  Journal,  vol.  ix.,  gives  an  account  of 
a  subterranean  village  called  Benamaurel,  in  Granada  in 
Spain,  which  is  on  a  larger  scale  than  those  mentioned  by- 
Captain  Lyon.  It  would  probably  be  a  difficult  antiqua- 
rian investigation  to  trace  the  origin  of  these  Spanish  sub- 
terranean dwellings,  inhabited  by  a  considerable  population 
of  the  poorer  classes  in  various  parts  of  the  province  of 
Granada.  They  may  be  observed  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
cities  of  Granada,  Guadiz,  and  Baza ;  but  are  most  nu- 
merous in  the  villages  of  Benamaurel,  Castillejos,  Caniles, 
and  CuUar,  where  they  have  been  excavated  in  the  marl 
strata^  so  extensively  deposited  in  that  basin,  and  in  those 
of  Benabra,  and  another  in  the  valley  of  Guadiz.  In 
Benabra,  the  entire  population  lives  in  ca^es,— the  church, 
the  curate's  house,  and  the  venta  being  the  only  edifices 
seen  above  ground.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Bagnovea,  in 
the  pope's  territories,  there  is  a  village,  of  which  an  Italian 
traveller  has  observed,  that  a  few  stones  for  the  purpose  of 
closing  the  entrance  of  the  cavern,  a  hole  for  the  smoke  to 
go  out  of,  and  an  aperture  to  admit  the  light,  suffice  to  com- 
plete each  habitation.  In  the  Isle  of  Ponza,  near  the  Bay 
of  Naples,  is  another  town  of  the  same  description,  the  in- 
habitants preferring  to  reside  in  caves,  although  the  island 
abounds  in  good  building  materials.  In  France,  many  vil- 
lages of  inhabited  caverns  still  exist.  Swinburne  describes 
a  village  of  the  same  kind,  which  occurs  in  the  province  of 
Andalusia  in  Spain.  The  natives  of  New-Holland  and 
other  countries  still  shelter  themselves  in  caves  and  ca- 
verns, and  in  the  hollows  of  trees.  At  an  early  period,  the 
inhabitants  of  Burope  appear  also  to  have  lived  principally 
in  natural  caves  and  caverns,  or  in  such  as  they  dug  in  soft 
rocks. 

The  subject  of  caves  has  recently  attracted  considerable 
attention ;  but  more  on  the  part  of  the  geologist  than  of  the 
antiquarian.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  in  caves  in  the 
south  of  France  human  remains  had  been  found  along  with 
bones  of  quadrupeds,  now  no  longer  met  with  in  a  living 


ANCIENT  GERMANS*  INHABITED  CAVES.         253 

state,  either  in  Europe  or  elsewhere.     The  destruction  of 
the  forests  in  which  they  found  shelter,  the  drying  up  of  the 
lakes,  on  the  borders  of  which  they  found  their  food,  and 
partial  convulsions  of  nature,  sufficiently  account,  says  Dr. 
Hibbert,  for  their  extinction.    In  this  view,  the  investigation 
of  the  caves  in  which  human  bones  are  found  is  as  much 
the  province  of  the  antiquary  as  of  the   geologist.     The 
same  geologist  assumes  as  an  hjrpothesis,  that  the  tribes  in- 
habiting Europe,  previous  to  the  historical  times,  were  in  a 
state  similar  to  that  of  the  Fins  described  by  Tacitus, — as 
leading  an  almost  brutish  life,  destitute  even  of  the  ear- 
liest rudiments  of  the  arts.     Such  beings  might  well  be 
conceived  to  contend  with  the  beasts,  above  whom  they 
■were  so  Uttle  elevated,  for  places  of  shelter  they  knew  not 
how  to  construct ;  or,  at  all  events,  they  might  crawl  like 
the  beasts,  or  the  New-Hollanders,  into  caves  or  caverns  to 
conceal  their  dying  agonies.      At  this  period   the  bones 
could  scarcely  have  been  deposited  in  caves  for  the  purpose 
of  inhumation,  the  idea  of  sepulture  belonging  to  a  more 
advanced  state.     The  rude  fragments  of  earthenware  found 
in  the  same  caves  belonged  to  an  extremely  rude  and  very 
early  period.      The  Celtic  and  Gothic  tribes,  who   sup- 
planted the  aborigines  of  Europe,  seemed  to  have  reached 
the  agricultural  state.     The  Germans  are  described  as  in- 
habiting houses  built  of  gross  and  unhewn  materials,  con- 
structed without  the  aid  of  mortar ;  and  also  caves,  into 
which  they  retired  for  shelter  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
winter,  as  do  the  inhabitants  of  some  coimtries  in  Northern 
Asia  at  present.     Traces  of  these  ancient  subterraneous 
habitations  are  still  to  be  met  with  in  Germany,  but  much 
more  frequently  in  France  and  Italy,  where  the  nature  of  the 
rock  is  more  favourable  to  the  task  of  excavation,  and  they 
are  most  numerous  in  the  south  of  France.     Each  cave  ap- 
pears to  have  been  entered  by  a  low  chink  or  fissure,  situated 
almost  half  way  between  the  floor  of  the  cave  and  its  roof, 
and  differing  as  little  as  possible  from  the  level  of  the  avenue 
by  which  it  was  approached.     Sometimes  the  caves   are 
isolated,  sometimes  they  are  found  in  groups.     These  caves 
continued  to  be  used  even  during  the  feudal  period,   as 
could  be  proved  by  descriptions  of  caves  met  with  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  Europe,  particularly  in  the  south  of  France. 
We  recommend  to  the  particular  attention  of  travellen 


254  SOUDAH,  OR  BLACK  MOUNTAINS. 

Ihe  examination  of  caves  and  caverns,  being  an  investiga* 
tion,  as  appears  from  the  preceding  details,  not  only  inti- 
Inately  connected  v?ith  the  early  history  of  man,  and  of  hi» 
condition  in  a  low  state  of  civilization  even  at  the  present 
iay,  but  also  with  the  geological  history  of  our  species,  and 
of  that  of  several  of  the  more  powerful  and  interesting  spe- 
cies of  the  class  of  quadrupeds. 

In  the  route  from  Tripoli  to  Mourzouk,  the  first  change 
of  rock  met  with  by  Dr.  Oudney  was  at  Benioleed,*  where  he 
remarks  there  is  a  rich  valley,  the  sides  of  which  are  of 
lunestone  hills  400  feet  high,  capped  with  greenstone  and 
amygdaloid.  The  Jibel  Gulat,  600  feet  high,  one  of  the 
highest  hills  he  had  met  with  since  leaving  Tripoli,  is  con- 
siderably to  the  south  of  Benioleed.  It  is  composed  of  marls 
and  limestones,  containing  fossil  oysters  and  limpets,  form- 
ing a  deposite  which  is  said  to  resemble  the  tertiary  rock 
named  calcaire  grossiere  of  the  Paris  basin,  which  occurs 
in  Malta,  Sicily,  and  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, on  the  shores  of  Italy  and  France.  These  limestones 
continue  onwards  to  the  valley  of  Bonjeviff  which  was 
found  strewed  with  gypsum.  Captain  Lyon  mentions  gun- 
flints  as  occurring  in  the  road  to  Bonjem  ;  while  Dr.  Oud- 
ney speaks  of  striped  jaspers  and  cornelians,  but  does  not 
mention  gun-flints.  These  rocks  continue  onwards  to 
Sockna.  A  short  distance  to  the  south  of  Sockna  are  the 
Soudah  or  Black  Mountains.  These,  Captain  Lyon  says, 
rise  to  a  height  of  1500  feet,  extend  about  100  miles  in 
breadth  from  N.  to  S.,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  from 
E.  to  W.  They  are  perfectly  barren,  of  very  irregular 
forms,  occasionally  broken  into  detached  masses,  and  some- 
times rising  into  cones.  They  are  composed  of  trap-rocks, 
said  to  be  of  the  nature  of  basalt.  After  crossing  this 
range,  the  route  to  Mourzouk  leads  across  gravelly  and 
sandy  tracts,  with  frequent  appearances  of  dolomite  lime- 
stone, occasionally  rolled  masses  of  basalt,  and  agates,  pro- 
bably derived  from  amygdaloidal  trap.t      The  road  from 

*  The  inhabitants  of  Benioleed  are  Arabs.  The  water  is  excellent, 
but  some  of  the  wells  are  UlO  feet  deep.— Lyon. 

t  This  is  the  northern  boundary  of  the  kinedom  of  Fezzan.  There 
are  here  some  perfect  remains  of  a  Roman  fortress,  built  by  order  of  Sep 
limius  Severus. — Lyon. 

I  At  Sebha,  a  town  of  800  inhabitants,  the  population  is  no  longer 
Ar^b,  but  black ;  hence  Captain  Lyon,  in  his  map,  says,  "  Sebha,N.  lat. 
270  black  population  coniiuences  =' 


PETRIFIED  WOOD  IN  THE  DESERT.  255 

Mourzouk,  which  our  travellers  left  on  the  29th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1822,  to  Traghan,  the  former  capital  of  Fezzan,  pre- 
sented frequent  incrustations  of  salt.  From  Traghan  to 
Maefen,  the  road  lies  over  a  mixture  of  clay  and  salt.  The 
path,  by  which  all  the  animals  move  for  several  miles,  is  a 
narrow  space  or  stripe  worn  smooth,  bearing  a  resemblance, 
both  in  hardness  and  appearance,  to  ice.  Near  Maefen, 
it  assumes  a  new  and  more  beautiful  shape,  being  traversed 
by  numerous  fissures,  from  the  sides  of  which,  and  from  the 
roofs  of  cavities  several  feet  deep,  beautiful  crystals  of  salt 
were  observed  shooting.  The  road  extends  more  than 
twenty  miles  east  and  west.  The  water  of  Maefen,  al- 
though impregnated  with  soda,  is  not  disagreeable  to  the 
taste,  or  unwholesome.  The  continuation  of  the  journey 
from  Maefen  to  Gatrone,  which  occupied  two  days,  was 
across  the  sand  of  the  desert,  which,  it  is  said,  was  beauti- 
fully fine,  round,  and  red.*  This  place  is  surrounded  by 
sand  hills  and  mounds  of  earth,  covered  with  a  tree  called 
athali.  Though  encamped  on  the  south  side  of  the  town, 
they  had  cold  north  and  north-west  winds  ;  and  the  temper- 
ature in  the  tent  was  from  43°  to  45°  in  the  mornings.  On 
the  9th  December  reached  Tegerhy.f  This  place  they 
found  pleasantly  situated.  On  the  13th  left  Tegerhy,  and 
proceeded  on  the  Desert :  it  was  scattered  with  mounds 
of  earth  and  sand,  covered  with  various  shrubs,  which 
were  greedily  devoured  by  the  camels.  On  the  16th  reached 
Ghad.  On  the  17th  continued  their  journey  ovei-  a  stony 
plain,  without  the  least  appearance  of  vegetation.  The 
exposed  rocks  were  sandstones  of  different  kinds,  red  and 
black ;  fine  specimens  of  petrified  wood  were  found,  in 
which  were  observed,  in  the  centre,  sap- vessels,  and  knots 
filled  with  calcareous  matter,  the  woody  fibre  charged 
with  a  siliceous  substance ;  beautiful  rays  were  observed 
shooting  from  the  centre  to  the  circumference.  The 
depth  of  a  well  they  met  with,  named  Meshroo,  was  from 
15  to  20  feet ;  the  water  good,  and  therefore  free  from 
saline  impregnations:  the  ground  around  it  was  strewed 
with  human  skeletons  of  the  slaves  who  had  arrived,  ex- 
hausted with  thirst  and  fatigue.  "  The  horrid  consequences 
of  the  slave-trade,"  says  Dr.   Oudney,    "were   strongly 

*  Captain  Lyon  mentions  gypsum  and  selenite  as  occurring  in  tliis 
qaarter. 
t  This  is  the  soutliernmoat  town  in  Fezzan, 


258    HUMAN  SKELETONS  IN  THE  DESERT. 

brought  to  our  mind  ;  and,  although  its  horrors  are  not 
equal  to  those  of  the  European  trade,  still  they  are  sufficient 
to  call  up  every  sympathy,  and  rouse  up  every  spark  of  hu- 
manity. They  are  dragged  over  deserts  ;  water  often  fails, 
and  also  provisions  scantily  provided  for  the  long  and  dreary 
journey.  The  Moors  ascribe  the  numbers  destroyed  to  the 
cruelty  of  the  Tibboo  traders  :  there  is,  perhaps,  too  much 
truth  in  this  accusation.  Every  few  miles  a  skeleton  was 
seen  through  the  whole  day  ;  some  were  partially  covered 
with  sand,  others  with  only  a  small  mound  formed  by  the 
wind  ;  one  hand  often  lay  under  the  head,  and  frequently 
both,  as  if  in  the  act  of  compressing  the  head  ;  the  skin  and 
membranous  substance  all  shrivel  up  and  dry,  from  the  state 
of  the  air.  The  thick  muscular  and  internal  parts  only  decay." 
Ranges  of  hills  were  seen  to  the  south  and  east.  In  the 
evening  the  party  halted  near  a  well,  within  half  a  mile  of 
M  eshroo.  Around  this  spot  were  lying  more  than  one  hun- 
dred human  skeletons,  some  of  them  with  the  skin  still  re- 
maining attached  to  the  bones, — not  even  a  little  sand 
throvsoi  over  them.  The  Arabs  were  amused  at  the  horror 
expressed  by  the  travellers  at  this  sight,  and  said,  they  were 
only  blacks  ;  and  began  knocking  about  the  limbs  with 
the  butt-end  of  their  firelocks.  "  Our  camels,"  says  Den- 
ham,  "  did  not  come  up  until  it  was  quite  dark,  and  we 
Divouacked  in  the  midst  of  these  unearthed  remains  of  the 
victims  of  persecution  and  avarice,  after  a  long  day's  jour- 
ney of  twenty-six  miles,  in  the  course  of  which  one  of  our 
party  counted  107  of  these  skeletons."  They  continued 
journeying  until  the  21st,  partly  through  sand  and  among 
sandstone  hills,  some  of  which  were  600  feet  high.  On  the 
22d,  they  moved  before  daylight,  passing  some  rough  sand 
hills  mixed  with  red  sandstone^  to  the  west,  over  a  plain  of 
fine  gravel,  and  halted  at  the  matten  called  El  Hammar, 
close  under  a  bluff-head,  which  had  been  in  view  since 
quitting  their  resting-place  in  the  morning.  During  the 
last  two  days  they  had  passed,  on  an  average,  from  sixty  to 
eighty  or  ninety  human  skeletons  each  day  ;  but  the  num- 
bers that  lay  about  the  wells  at  El  Hammar  were  countless ; 
those  of  two  women,  whose  perfect  and  regular  teeth  be- 
spoke them  young,  were  particularly  shocking ;  their  arms 
still  remained  clasped  round  each  other  as  they  had  expired, 
although  the  flesh  had  long  since  perished  by  being  exposed 


NATRON  AND  SALT  LAKES.  257 

to  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  blackened  bones 
only  left ;  the  nails  of  the  fingers,  and  some  of  the  sinews 
of  the  hand,  also  remained  ;  and  part  of  the  tongue  of  on» 
of  them  still  appeared  through  the  teeth.  They  had  now 
passed  six  days  of  desert  without  the  slightest  appearance 
of  vegetation.  On  the  following  (24th)  day,  they  had  al- 
ternate plains  of  loose  sand  and  gravel,  and  a  distant  view 
of  some  hills  to  the  west.  "  While,"  says  Denham,  "  I 
was  dozing  on  my  horse  about  noon,  overcome  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  which  at  that  time  of  the  day  always  shone  with 
great  power,  I  was  suddenly  awakened  by  a  crashing  under 
his  feet,  which  startled  me  excessively.  I  found  that  my 
steed  had  stepped  upon  the  perfect  skeletons  of  two  human 
beings,  cracking  their  brittle  bones  under  his  feet,  and,  by 
one  trip  of  his  foot,  separating  a  scull  from  the  trunk,  which 
rolled  on  lUvc  a  ball  before  him.  This  incident  gave  me  a 
sensation  which  it  took  some  time  to  remove." 

On  the  following  day,  24th,  the  plain  was  observed  co- 
vered with  slight  irregularities,  and  strewed  with  pieces  of 
variously-coloured  calcareous  spar  and  sclenite,  and  thick  beds 
of  gypsum  were  noticed.  Halted  in  the  evening  at  wells 
situated  under  a  ridge  of  Imo  white  hills  of  sandstone,  called 
Mafrasben-Kasaretta,  where  there  are  also  beds  and  hills  of 
limestone.  The  whole  of  the  journey  this  day,  25th,  was 
through  hills  of  a  rather  bold  and  picturesque  character,  of 
durk-coloured  sandstone.  One  day's  journey  was  also  through 
a  tract  partly  plain,  partly  of  sandstone  hills,  to  a  wadey 
named  Izhya.  Here  the  travellers  had  a  gale  of  wind  for 
three  days  ;  their  tents  were  nearly  buried  with  sand,  and 
were  obliged  to  roll  themselves  up  in  blankets  nearly  the 
whole  tune.  They  started  again  on  the  30th,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  31st  halted  under  some  low  brown  sand- 
stone hills.  The  journey  from  1st  January  to  the  6th 
was  partly  along  and  across  a  ridge  of  saiidstone  hills,  in  no 
place  more  than  400  feet  high.  On  the  6th  they  halted  at 
Tiggema,  which  is  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  sand- 
stmie  range,  about  400  feet  high,  and  hangs  over  the  mud 
houses  of  the  town.  Its  sides  are  nearly  perpendicular, 
and  it  is  detached  from  the  other  hills  by  a  chasm.  On  the 
8th,  the  route  still  under  the  range  of  sandstone  hills,  they 
passed  a  salt  lake,  and  farther  east,  at  Dirkee,  two  natron 
lakes.  In  the  centre  of  each  of  these  lakes  is  a  solid  body 
Y2 


258  DESERT  OF  BILMA. 

or  island  of  natron.  In  one  lake  the  island  is  15  feet  high, 
and  100  feet  in  circumference.  The  natron  is  associated  with 
muriate  of  soda,  or  common  salt.  On  the  12th  they  reached 
Bilma,  after  passing  through  a  wadey  the  greater  part  of  the 
way,  which  exhibited  many  patches  of  saline  incrustations, 
also  beds  of  red  sandstone,  containing  numerous  nodules  of 
iron  ore.  The  sandstone,  hills  exhibit,  on  their  summits, 
forms  resembling  ruins  of  towns  and  castles.  Near  to 
Bilma  are  several  salt  lakes  that  afford  very  pure  and  well- 
crystallized  salt.*  About  a  mile  from  Bilma  is  a  spring  of 
beautiful  clear  water,  which  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
and  waters  a  space  of  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  cir- 
cumference, which  is  covered  with  fresh  grass  ;  but,  pass- 
ing this,  the  traveller  must  bid  adieu  to  every  appearunca 
of  vegetable  production,  and  enter  on  a  desert.  From  Bil- 
ma, which  was  left  on  16th  January,  the  route  led  over  loose 
hills  of  fine  sand,  in  which  the  camels  sunk  nearly  knee- 
deep.  In  passing  the  desert  wilds,  where  hills  disappear  in 
a  single  night  by  the  drifting  of  the  sand,  and  where  all 
traces  of  the  passage,  even  of  a  large  kafda,  sometimes  va- 
nish in  a  few  hours,  the  Tibboos  have  certain  points  in  the 
dark  sandstone  ridges  which  from  time  to  time  raise  their 
heads  in  the  midst  of  this  ocean  of  sand,  and  form  the  only 
variety,  and  by  them  they  steer  their  course.  They  halted 
in  the  evening  at  Kaflorum,  which  is  a  nest  of  hills  of  coarse 
dark  sandstone.  On  the  17th  bivouacked  under  a  head 
called  Zow  (difficult),  to  the  east  of  which  were  found  se- 
veral wells.  "  This  day,  the  18th,"  says  Denham,  "  the 
sand  hills  were  less  high,  but  the  animals  sunk  so  deep  that 
it  was  a  tedious  day  for  all.  Four  camels  of  Boo  Khal- 
loom's  gave  in ;  two  were  killed  by  the  Arabs,  and  two 
were  left  to  the  chance  of  coming  up  before  morning.  Tre- 
mendously dreary  are  these  marches  ;  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  billows  of  sand  bound  the  prospect.  On  seeing  the 
solitary  foot-passenger  of  the  kafila,  with  his  water-flask  in 

*  Captain  Lyon  says,—"  I  found  no  one  who  knew  of  the  salt  lakea 
of  Poinboo  laid  down  in  all  the  maps  ;  but  there  is  abundance  of  salt  fit 
Agrain  (which  is  four  days'  journey  trom  Bilma,  W.S.W.),  and  a  large 
lake,  on  the  borders  of  whi(.h  this  article  is  collected.  The  Tuaricksgo 
there  and  carry  away  great  quantities  to  Soudan.  This  agrees  with  the 
accounts  of  Domboo  ;  and,  from  the  circumstance  of  Tuaricks  going  to 
Agram,  and  the  position  of  that  place,  I  am  led  to  imagine  it  may  be  the 
eame  Domt)oo,  though  under  a  diflbrent  appellation." 


DESERT  OF  BILMA.  259 

his  hand  and  bag  of  zujueeta  on  his  head,  sink  at  a  dis- 
tance beneath  the  slope  of  one  of  these,  as  he  plods  hia 
way  alone,  hoping  to  gain  a  few  paces  in  his  long  day's 
work  by  not  following  the  track  of  the  camels,  one  trem- 
bles for  his  safety :  the  obstacle  passed  which  concealed 
him  from  the  view,  the  eye  is  strained  towards  the  spot,  in 
order  to  be  assured  that  he  has  not  been  buried  quick  in  the 
treacherous  overwhelming  sand."  On  the  20th,  passed 
hills  named  Geisgal,  of  dark  sandstone^  and  a  table-shaped 
hill  in  the  wadey  Dibla,  of  sandstone  and  slate-clay.  Here 
some  fulgurites,  or  lightning-tubes,  were  observ'ed  in  the 
sand.  A  number  of  semi-vitrified  small  stones  were  found 
on  the  sands,  which  the  people  collected  to  use  as  bullets. 
The  journey  still  across  sandy  deserts  to  an  extensive  wadey 
called  Aghadem,  which  they  reached  on  the  23d.  Here  are 
several  wells  of  excellent  water,  and  hills  of  sandstone. 
From  thence  crossed  the  sand  desert  of  Tintuma.  On  the 
27th,  "  we,"  says  Denham,  "  appeared  gradually  approach- 
ing something  like  vegetation.  We  had  rising  sands  and 
clumps  of  fine  grass  the  whole  way,  and  the  country  was 
not  unlike  some  of  our  heaths  in  England."  Towards  eve- 
ning the  trees  increased  in  number  ;  and  when  the  travellers 
halted,  the  animals  found  abundance  of  food.  The  spot 
where  they  halted  is  called  Geogo  Balwy.  They  continued 
their  route  across  sands  and  through  valleys,  bounded  by 
low  sandstone  hills,  and  by  some  sait  lakes.  As  they  ap- 
proached the  great  fresh-water  lake  Tchad,  the  country  im- 
proved much  in  appearance,  owmg  to  the  increase  of  soil, 
and  consequently  of  vegetation.  On  the  4th  February, 
they  came  in  sight  of  this  great  lake.  On  February  5th, 
reached  Lari,  on  the  shore  of  the  Great  Lake.  On  the  6th, 
the  freed  slaves,  natives  of  Kanem,  left  them  for  their 
homes,  three  days'  journey  to  the  eastward.  One  poor  deaf 
and  dumb  woman,  whom  the  rapacity  of  Mukni,  the  former 
sultan  of  Fezzan,  who  spared  neither  age,  sex,  nor  infirmity, 
had  induced  him  to  march  to  Tripoli,  had  shed  torrents  of 
tears  ever  since  she  had  been  made  acquainted,  by  signs, 
that  she  was  to  go  to  Bornou.  She  had  left  two  children 
behind  her,  and  the  third,  which  was  in  her  arms  when  she 
Was  taken  by  the  Arabs,  had  been  torn  from  her  breast 
after  the  first  ten  days  of  her  journey  across  the  Desert,  in 
order  that  she  might  keep  up  with  the  camels.    Her  e;tpre8- 


260  BASE  OF  THE  SAHARA. 

sive  motions,  says  Denham,  in  describing  the  manner  in 
■which  the  child  was  forced  from  her  and  thrown  on  the 
sand,  where  it  was  left  to  perish,  while  whips  were  applied 
to  her,  lame  and  worn  out  as  she  was,  to  quicken  her  tot- 
tering steps,  were  intensely  affecting.  After  travelling 
through  a  wooded  and  beautiful  country,  they,  on  February 
17th,  reached  Kouka.  This  was  to  the  travellers  an  im- 
portant day,  as  they  were  now  about  to  become  acquainted 
with  a  people  who  had  never  seen,  or  scarcely  heard  of  an 
European. 

In  a  journey  which  was  undertaken  to  Mandara,  the 
whole  country  to  Affagay  was  found  to  be  alluvial.  Den- 
ham crossed  part  of  a  great  range  of  mountains,  named  the 
Mandara  hills,  at  the  most  southern  limit  of  this  journey. 
He  says,  "  On  all  sides  the  apparently  interminable  chain 
of  hills  closed  upon  our  view  in  rugged  magnificence  and 
gigantic  grandeur,  though  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
higher  Alps,  the  Apennines,  or  even  the  Sierra  Morena,  in 
magnitude  ;  yet  by  none  of  these  were  they  surpassed  in 
picturesque  effect."  This  range  of  mountains  was  found 
to  contain  granite,  mica-slate,  hornblende  rock,  and  ores  of 
iron.  There  were  observed  on  the  southward  lower  ranges 
of  newer  formation,  consisting  of  conglomerated  rocks 
abounding  in  fossil  oyster-shells. 

On  what  Formation  does  the  Sand  of  the  Desert  rest  ? — It 
is  a  question  with  geologists,  on  what  formation  or  forma- 
tions does  the  sand  of  the  Desert  rest  1  We  have  not  data 
sufficient  for  a  very  satisfactory  answer  to  this  question. 
Judging,  however,  from  the  details  of  travellers,  we  would 
infer  that  the  predominating  formations  are  of  the  second- 
ary class  of  rocks.  The  secondary  formations  met  with  are, 
red  and  variegated  sandstone,  with  gypsum  and  salt,  and 
white  and  graij  sandstone  sometimes  disposed  in  fantastic 
forms.  The  salt  in  some  places  is  seen  in  thick  beds,  along 
with  red  or  variegated  sandstones.  Limestones  of  various 
descriptions,  that  appear  to  belong  to  the  Jura  limestone 
formation,  are  nvet  with.  Besides  those  already  enume- 
rated, there  occur  other  limestones,  clays,  and  gypsums, 
Delonging  to  the  tertiary  class,  from  which  salt  springs 
issue.  But  not  only  these  softer  rocks  appeared  rising 
through  the  sands  of  the  Desert ;  also  harder  rocks,  aa 
greenstone,  amygdaloid,  and  granite,  in  some  places  project. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  TRONA  LAKE.  261 

although  rarely  in  isolated  rocks,  ridges,  and  cliffs.  From 
these  details  it  appears  that  the  general  basis  of  the  Desert 
consists  of  secondary  rocks,  principally  sandstone  and 
limestone. 

Description  of  a  Trona  or  Natron  Laie.— Natron  or  trona, 
as  already  mentioned,  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the  Desert, 
but  principally  in  its  eastern  half.  Dr.  Oudney  describes, 
in  the  following  terms,  in  a  letter  to  us,  afterward  printed 
in  Denham's  Travels,  the  wadey  Trona  he  passed  through 
in  his  journey  from  Tripoli  to  Mourzouk  : — ^^  Monday,  July  8. 
— We  entered  the  wadey  Trona  early  this  morning,  on 
the  north-east  side.  Near  where  we  entered  there  are  a 
cluster  of  date  palms,  and  a  small  lake,  from  which  impure 
trona  is  obtamed.  On  the  western  side  the  trona  lake  is 
surrounded  with  date-trees,  and  its  marshy  borders  are 
covered  on  almost  all  sides  by  grass  and  a  tall  juncas.  It 
is  about  half  a  mile  long,  and  nearly  200  yards  wide.  At 
present  it  is  of  inconsiderable  depth,  from  the  evaporation 
qf  the  water  ;  for  many  places  are  dry  now,  which  are 
covered  in  the  winter  and  spring.  The  trona  crystallizes  at 
the  bottom  of  the  lake  when  the  water  is  sufficiently  satu- 
rated ;  for  when  the  water  is  in  large  quantities  it  eats  the 
trona,  as  the  people  say.  The  cakes  vary  in  thickness 
from  a  fine  film  to  several  inches  (two  or  three).  The 
thickest  at  present  is  not  more  than  three-fourths  of  an 
inch ;  but  in  the  winter,  when  the  water  begins  to  increase, 
it  is  of  the  thickness  I  have  mentioned.  The  surface  next 
the  ground  is  not  unequal  from  crystallization,  but  rough  to 
the  feel  from  numerous  small  rounded  asperities.  That 
next  the  water  is  generally  found  studded  with  numerous 
small,  beautiful  cubical  crystals  of  muriate  of  soda ;  the 
line  of  junction  is  always  distinct,  and  the  one  is  easily 
removed  from  the  other.  When  not  covered  with  muriate 
of  soda,  the  upper  surface  shows  a  congeries  of  small 
tabular  pieces  joined  in  every  direction.  When  the  mass  is 
broken,  there  is  a  fine  display  of  reticular  crystals,  often 
finely  radiated.  The  surface  of  the  water  is  covered  in 
many  places  with  large  thin  sheets  of  salt,  giving  the  whole 
ihe  appearance  of  a  lake  partially  frozen  over  ;  film  after 
film  forms  till  the  whole  becomes  of  great  thickness.  Thus 
may  be  observed,  on  ^he  same  space,  trona  and  cubical 


262  SAND  OF  THE  DESERT. 

crystals  of  muriate  of  soda :  and.  on  the  surface  of  the 
water,  films  accumulating  till  the  whole  amounts  to  a  con- 
siderable thickness.  The  soil  of  the  lake  is  dark-brown 
muddy  sand,  approaching  to  black,  of  a  viscid  consistence 
and  slimy  feel ;  and,  on  the  lately  uncovered  surface  of 
the  banks,  a  black  substance,  something  like  mineral  tar,  is 
seen  oozing  out.  The  water  begins  to  increase  in  winter, 
and  is  at  its  height  in  the  spring.  In  the  beginning  of  the 
winter  the  trona  is  thickest  and  best ;  but  in  the  spring  it 
disappears  entirely.  The  size  of  the  lake  has  diminished 
considerably  within  the  last  nine  years,  and,  if  care  be  not 
taken,  the  diminution  will  be  still  more  considerable ;  for 
plants  are  making  rapid  encroachments,  and  very  shallow 
banks  are  observable  in  many  places.  On  making  inquiry, 
I  found  the  quantity  of  trona  has  not  sensibly  dimmished 
for  the  last  ten  years.  Perhaps  it  may  appear  so,  from  there 
always  being  sufficient  to  answer  every  demand.  The 
quantity  annually  carried  away  amounts  to  between  400  and 
500  camel-loads,  each  amounting  to  about  4  cwt., — a  large 
quantity,  when  the  size  of  the  lake  is  taken  into  account. 
It  is  only  renioved  from  the  lake  when  a  demand  comes. 
A  man  goes  in,  breaks  it  off  in  large  pieces,  and  those  on 
the  banks  remove  the  extraneous  matter,  and  pack  it  in 
large  square  bundles.  The  water  in  the  valley  is  good, 
being  free  from  saline  impregnation." — Clapper  ton,  Den- 
ham,  and  Oudneifs  Journal,  p.  57. 

Fulgurite  and  Meteoric  Iron  found  in  the  Desert. — In  some 
parts  of  the  Desert,  tubes  of  sand,  resembling  those  found 
at  Drigg,  in  Cumberland,  and  in  different  sandy  districts  on 
the  continent  of  Europe,  are  met  with.  They  are  named 
fulgurites,  or  lightning-tubes,  by  naturalists,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  be  formed  by  the  lightning  striking  through  the 
sand,  and  partially  melting  portions  of  it.  Masses  of  me- 
teoric iron  also  have  been  met  with  in  the  Desert.  Gol- 
berry,  in  his  journey  through  Western  Africa,  in  the  years 
1805-7,  mentions  his  having  found  a  mass  of  meteoric  iron 
in  the  Desert.  Fragments  of  it  were  brought  to  Europe 
by  Colonel  O'Bara,  and  were  analyzed  by  Mr.  Howard,  who 
found  it  composed  of  ninety-six  parts  of  iron  and  four  ^of 
nickel. 

Observations  on  the   Sand  of  the  Desert. — ^Having  now 


PILLARS  OF  SAND  IN  THE  DESERT.  263i 

noticed  the  rooks  and  some  of  the  minerals  met  with  in  the 
Desert,  we  shall  next  attend  to  the  sand  of  which,  it  is 
principally  composed.  The  loose  alluvial  matter  which 
forms  the  sand  of  the  Desert  is  principally  composed  of 
particles  of  white  and  gray  quartz  of  various  sizes,  gene- 
rally very  small,  forming  the  sand,  properly  so  called,  seldom 
so  large  as  to  form  gravel  and  pebbles.  Some  are  of  opi- 
nion that  this  sand  is  an  original  deposite  ;  others,  that  it  is 
fonned  from  previously  existing  rocks  through  the  agency 
of  water. 

Moving  Pillars  of  Sa7id  in  the  Desert. — During  the  storms 
that  often  rage  in  this  Desert,  the  sand  is  raised  into  clouds 
that  obscure  the  horizon,  or  it  is  by  whirlwinds  raised  into 
pillars.  Bnice  describes  an  appearance  of  this  kind,  which 
he  witnessed  in  his  journey  through  the  eastern  part  of 
the  Desert,  in  his  route  to  Abyssinia,  in  the  following  terms  : 
• — "  At  one  o'clock  we  alighted  among  some  acacia-trees  at 
Waadi-el-Halboub,  having  gone  twenty-one  miles.  We 
■were  here  at  once  surprised  and  terrified  by  a  sight,  surely 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world.  In  that  vast  ex- 
panse of  Desert,  from  west  to  north-west  of  us,  we  saw  a 
number  of  prodigious  pillars  of  sand  at  different  distances, 
at  times  moving  with  great  velocity,  at  others  stalking  on 
with  majestic  slowness.  At  intervals  we  thought  they  were 
coming  in  a  very  few  minutes  to  overwhelm  us,  and  small 
quantities  of  sand  did  actually  more  than  once  reach  us ; 
again  they  would  retreat,  so  as  to  be  almost  out  of  sight, 
their  tops  reaching  the  very  clouds  ;  then  the  tops  oflen  sepa- 
rated from  the  bodies,  and  these,  once  disjoined,  dispersed 
in  air,  and  did  not  appear  more  ;  sometimes  they  were  broken 
in  the  middle,  as  if  they  were  struck  with  large  cannon- 
shot.  At  noon  they  began  to  advance  with  considerable 
swiftness  upon  us, — the  wind  being  very  strong  at  north. 
Eleven  ranged  alongside  of  us,  about  the  distance  of  three 
miles  ;  the  greatest  diameter  of  the  largest  appeared  to  me 
at  that  distance  as  if  it  would  measure  ten  feet.  They 
retired  from  us  with  a  wind  at  south-east,  leaving  an 
impression  on  my  mind  to  which  I  can  give  no  name, 
though  surely  one  ingredient  in  it  was  fear,  with  a  con- 
siderable deal  of  wonder  and  astonishment.  It  was  in 
vain  to  think  of  flying ;  the  swiftest  horse  would  be  of  no 


264  SAND     AFFECTED  BY  WINDS. 

use  to'carry  us  out  of  this  danger,  and  thg  full  conviction  of 
this  riveted  me  to  the  spot."  A  similar  account  of  these 
moving  pillars  of  sand  is  given  by  M.  Adanson,  who  had 
an  opportunity  of  observing  one  of  them  crossing  the  rivei 
Gambia  f/om  the  Great  Desert.  It  passed  within  eighteen 
or  twenty  fathoms  of  the  stem  of  the  vessel,  and  seemed  to 
measure  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  circumference,  and  about  250 
feet  in  height.  Its  heat  was  sensibly  felt  at  the  distance  of 
100  feet,  and  it  left  a  strong  smell,  more  like  that  given  out 
by  saltpetre  than  sulphur,  and  which  remained  a  long  time. 

Sand-wind. — The  overpowering  effects  of  a  sudden 
sand-ioind,  when  nearly  at  the  border  of  the  Desert,  often 
destroy  a  whole  kafila,  already  weakened  by  fatigue. 
"  Indeed,"  says  Denham,  "  the  sand-storm  we  had  the 
misfortune  to  encounter  in  crossing  the  Desert  gave  us  a 
pretty  correct  idea  of  the  dreaded  effects  of  these  hurri- 
canes. The  wind  raised  the  fine  sand,  with  which  the  ex- 
tensive Desert  was  covered,  so  as  to  fill  the  atmosphere, 
and  render  the  immense  space  before  us  impenetrable  to 
the  eye  beyond  a  few  yards.  The  sun  and  clouds  were 
entirely  obscured,  and  a  suffocating  and  oppressive  weight 
accompanied  the  flakes  and  masses  of  sand  which,  I  had 
almost  said,  we  had  to  penetrate  at  every  step.  At  times 
we  completely  lost  sight  of  the  camels,  though  only  a  few 
yards  before  us.  The  horses  hung  their  tongues  out  of 
their  mouths,  and  refused  to  face  the  clouds  of  sand.  A 
parching  thirst  oppressed  us,  which  nothing  alleviated." 

How  the  prevailing  Winds  affect  the  Sand  of  the  Desert. 
— The  prevailing  winds  in  the  Sahara  are  the  easterly  and 
westerly, — the  first  blows  nine  months,  the  second  but  three 
months.  This  circumstance  is  intimately  connected  with 
the  motions  and  distribution  of  the  sand  of  the  Desert.  In 
the  eastern  half  of  the  Sahara  the  sand  is  more  gravelly, 
and  the  general  cover  of  sand  shallower  than  in  the  western 
half;  so  that,  in  travelling  towards  the  west,  the  depth  of 
the  sand  and  the  completeness  of  the  sandy  covers  in- 
creases. This  distribution  of  the  sand  is  probably  owing 
to  the  easterly  wind,  which  blows  «o  much  longer  than  the 
westerly,  carrying  the  sand  before  it  from  the  East  Sahara. 
To  the  same  cause  we  may  refer  the  less  frequent  appear- 
ance of  rocks,  the  gradual  diminution  in  magnitude  and  of 


GEOLOGY  OF  NI6RITIA.  265 

frequency  of  oases,  even  their  total  destruction  by  blowing 
sand  as  we  advance  westward.* 

What  is  the  Geognostical  Age  of  the  Sahara?' — Many  are 
of  opinion  that  the  Sahara  must  at  one  time  have  been  the 
bed  of  the  ocean.  The  very  frequent  saUne  impregnation 
of  the  sand,  the  rolled  pebble  and  sands  mixed  with  sea- 
shells  at  the  foot  of  the  southern  acclivity  of  the  Atlas  and 
other  parts  of  the  Desert,  are  considered  as  in  favour  of  this 
hypothesis.  At  what  period  did  this  great  tract  rise  above 
the  waves  of  the  ocean  1  This  can  only  be  guessed  at  by 
an  attentive  examination  of  the  junctions  of  the  sandstones, 
limestones,  &c.  with  the  bounding  primary  ranges  of  the  De- 
sert. If  they  are  the  same  on  the  south  side  as  on  the  north 
or  Atlas  side,  then  it  would  follow  that  the  Desert  rose  above 
the  sea  at  the  time  when  the  Atlas  made  its  appearance 
from  below;  that  is,  after  the  deposition  of  the  tertiary 
rocks, — at  a  period  when  the  earth  and  its  animals  and 
vegetables  were  nearly  the  same  as  at  present. 

3.  Geology  of  the  Region  to  the  South  of  the  Sahara,  and 
to  the  North  of  the  Great  Table-land. — This  is  the  Land  of 
the  Negroes,  called  also  Soudan  or  Nigritia.  The  high 
land  on  the  west  of  tliis  part  of  Africa  is  partly  accumu- 
lated around  the  sources  of  the  rivers  Senegal,  Gambia, 
Rio  Grande,  and  Niger  or  Joliba.  From  the  sources  of  the 
Niger  the  mountains  run  eastwards,  under  the  name  Kong 
Mountains,  across  Africa,  when  at  length  they  are  said  to 
form  a  junction  with  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  that  range 
onward  and  join  with  the  vast  alpine  land  of  Abyssinia. 
Parts  of  this  boundary  are  very  lofty,  some  mountains  of  the 
Kong  chain  attaining  an  elevation  of  14,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  From  the  meager  details  of  travellers  m 
regard  to  this  part  of  Africa,  all  we  can  infer  is,  that  the 
mountains  on  the  west  and  along  the  south  of  this  zone 
contain  primitive  rocks  of  various  descriptions,  as  granite, 
mica-slate,  clay-slate,  quartz  rock,  hornblende  rock,  lime- 
stone, &c.  In  different  parts  these  rocks  seem  traversed 
by  augite  greenstone  or  secondary  traps.  The  secondary 
sandstones  and  limestones  connected  with  these  ranges  not 
having  been  accurately  described,  we  cannot  venture  any 

*  The  long  continuance  of  the  easterly  in  comparison  of  the  westerly 
vriad,  may  explain  how  it  happens  that  the  whole  country  of  Egypt  baa 
not  ere  this  *•«?«»  swallowed  up  by  the  saud-flood  of  the  Desert. 
Z 


266  AFRICAN  GOLD. 

conjecture  as  to  their  geological  nature.  At  Gambia  there 
is  only  sand ;  but  opposite  the  town  there  are  islands  of 
red  decomposed  granite.  At  Goree  the  rock  is  a  fine 
basalt,  which  takes  a  regular  prismatic  form,  similar  to  the 
Giants'  Causeway.* 

Vast  tracts  of  flat  country,  partly  rich  and  cultivated, 
partly  desert  and  sandy,  extend  to  the  eastern  limit,  in- 
cluding Soudan,  of  which  the  great  kingdoms  are  Houssa 
and  Bomou.  In  the  flat  and  desert  regions,  salt  lakes  and 
natron  lakes,  and  salt  and  natron  springs,  are  met  with. 
Beds  of  rock-salt  occur  in  different  places,  as  at  Teleg, 
north  of  Timbuctoo,  half  a  day's  journey  from  Taudeny. 
From  this  place  is  exported  all  the  salt  from  Timbuctoo  to 
Jenne,  and  from  that  town  to  Soudan.  The  salt  is  there 
disposed  in  beds  several  feet  thick :  it  is  mined  into  large 
slabs,  which  are  afterward  sawn  into  blocks  for  the  market. 
These  mines  form  the  riches  of  the  country. 

African  Gold. — This  continent,  as  is  well  known,  affords 
a  considerable  quantity  of  gold,  which  is  found  in  the  form 
of  rolled  pieces,  or  in  minute  grains,  named  gold  dust,  in 
the  alluvium  of  rivers,  lakes,  valleys,  and  the  wide-spread- 
ing sand  of  the  vast  Desert.  The  northern  parts  of  Africa 
afford  but  little  gold ;  while  in  the  countries  to  the  south 
of  the  Great  Desert,  there  are  tracts  remarkable  for  the 
quantity  of  gold  they  contain.  Thus  the  flat  country,  which 
extends  from  the  foot  of  the  mountains  in  which  are  situ- 
ated the  sources  of  the  Gambia,  Senegal,  and  Niger,  has, 
from  an  early  period,  afforded  gold.  Bambouk,  w^hich  is 
situated  to  the  north-west  of  these  mountains,  furnishes  the 
greatest  part  of  the  gold  which  is  sold  on  the  western  coast 
of  Africa,  as  well  as  that  which  is  brought  to  Morocco, 
Fez,  Algiers,  Cairo,  and  Alexandria.  The  gold,  as  is  often 
the  case,  is  accompanied  with  grains  of  iron  ore,  probably 
the  magnetic  or  black  iron  ore.  Gold  mines  occur  to  the 
south  of  Timbuctoo.  The  people  employed  in  these  mines 
are  Bambarra  negroes,  who  become  wedthy,  as  all  the 
particles  of  gold  under  a  certam  weight  (12  mizams)  belong 
to  them.  Pieces  of  gold,  weighing  several  ounces,  are 
sonaetimes  found  there.  The  country  of  Kordofan,  to  the 
south-east  of  the  Great  Desert,  affords  a  considerable  quantity 

*  Geol.  Tr.,  vol.  i.,  New  Series,  p.  418. 


THOMAS  park's  ACCOUNT  OF  ACCRA.         267 

of  gold.  The  precious  metal  found  in  that  country  is 
brought  to  market  by  the  negroes,  in  quills  of  the  ostrich 
and  vulture.  This  territory,  it  would  appear,  was  known 
to  the  ancients,  who  regarded  Ethiopia  as  a  country  rich  in 
gold.     Sulphur  is  said  to  occur  in  Darfur. 

4.  Great  Table-land  of  Africa. — Of  the  table-land  itself 
■we  know  very  little, — the  geological  details  we  are  now  to 
lay  before  our  readers  being  principally  illustrative  of  the 
mountain-ranges  and  acclivities  that  surround  this  elevated 
plateau. 

Geology  of  the  Coast  from  Sierra  Leone  to  Cape  Negro. 
— We  shall  trace  the  geological  phenomena  from  Sierra 
Leone  to  Cape  Negro.  The  hills  around  Sierra  Leone  are 
of  granite,  or  rather  of  a  porphyritic  granitic  syenite,  in 
which  tourmaline  crystals  occur.*  We  know  nothing 
whatever  of  the  geology  of  the  Grain  Coast  and  Ivory 
Coast  of  Guinea.  The  Gold  Coast  is  so  named  from  the 
great  trade  in  gold  dust  carried  on  there,  which  has  given 
rise  to  many  European  settlements.  We  are  told  that  in 
the  interior  there  are  mountains  of  granite,  gneiss,  and 
quartz,  and  that  the  gold  is  collected  from  the  alluvial  sands 
and  clays  formed  from  these  rocks.  Nothing  particular  is 
known  of  the  rocks  or  soils  of  the  Slave  Coast. 

Our  young  friend  and  pupil,  Thomas  Park,  son  of  the 
celebrated  but  unfortunate  Mungo  Park,  possessing  the 
enthusiasm  and  courage  of  his  father,  determined  on  tra- 
versing Africa,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  the  history  of 
his  father's  fate,  at  that  time  in  some  degree  unknown,  and 
also  of  enlarging  our  knowledge  of  its  natural  history  and 
geography.  He  was  landed  by  order  of  government  at 
Accra,  on  the  west  coast,  in  5°  N.  The  last  letter  we  re- 
ceived from  this  promising  young  traveller, — for  shortly 
after  the  commencement  of  his  journey  he  perished, — was 
as  follows: — " Accra,  17 th  September ,  1827. — I  intend  to 
set  off  to-morrow  morning.  I  have  been,  as  you  know, 
three  months  here,  during  which  time  I  have  b«ien  princi- 
pally busy  with  the  study  of  the  Ashantee  language.  Some 
time  ago  I  made  an  excursion  of  about  fifty  miles  into  the 
interior,  by  way  of  experiment,  and  did  not  fail  to  look 
wround  me  and  notice  the  rocks  and  other  natural  produc- 

*  Geol.  Tr.,  vol.i.,  New  Sencs,  p.  418. 


268     GEOLOGY  OF  BENIN  AND  ANGOLA 

fcioiis,  I  have  only  time  to  say,  that  the  valley  of  Accra  is 
about  12  miles  in  breadth,  and  50  miles  in  length ;  the 
bottom  is  covered  with  a  soft  sandstone,  and  this  sandstone, 
in  one  place,  was  obser^'€d  resting  upon  clay-slate.  The 
mountains  forming  the  sides  of  this  long  valley,  as  far  as  I 
could  observe,  appear  composed  of  quartz  rock  and  clay- 
slate,  alternating  vnth  e-ach  other,  and  disposed  in  strata 
ranging  S.S.W,  and  N.N.E.,  the  dip  from  30°  to  90°  (the 
direction  of  the  dip  not  mentioned).  The  quartz  rock  con- 
tabis  grains  of  gold,  as  I  ascertained  by  careful  examination. 
In  some  blocks  of  rock  {syenite)  I  noticed  a  good  many  crys- 
tals of  sphene,  and  in  one  place  saw  what  I  considered  to 
be  black  manganese  ore.  It  is  very  hard  and  heavy,  and 
is  fashioned  by  the  Ashantees  into  balls.  The  cover  of 
alluvium,  in  the  bottom  of  the  valley  and  extending  down  to 
the  seacoast,  is  of  such  a  nature  as  to  lead  me  to  conjecture 
that  it  is  of  marine  origin,  and,  therefore,  that  the  sea  for- 
merly extended  a  long  way  inland.  The  bases  of  the  hills 
are  richly  clothed  with  trees  ;  but  these  diminish  in  num- 
ber towards  the  coast,  where  there  occurs  only  a  bush  here 
and  there." 

The  occurrence  of  gold  in  the  quartz  rock,  as  ascertained 
by  Mr.  Park,  is  a  very  interesting  observation,  as  it  allows 
us  to  infer  that  probably  much  of  the  gold  collected  in 
Africa  may  have  been  derived  originally  from  this  kind  of 
rock,  which,  in  its  broken  down  and  disintegrated  state, 
may  have  formed  the  sands  and  gravels  in  which  gold  dust 
is  generally  found. 

In  Benin  there  are  mountains  (those  of  Cameroon  on  the 
seacoast)  said  to  be  1-3,000  feet  high.  The  Congo  district, 
through  which  the  Zaire  flows,  was  examined  for  some  dis- 
tance up  the  river.  The  rocks  met  with  were  granite, 
syenite,  primitive  greenstone,  gneiss,  mica-slate,  clay-slate, 
and  primitive  limestone  or  marble. 

The  kingdom  of  Angola  contains  salt  pits,  from  which 
are  extracted  large  slabs  of  solid  rock-salt.  According  to 
Battel,  beds  of  rock-salt,  three  feet  thick,  extend  over  a  con- 
siderable part  of  the  province  of  Dembea. 

The  mines  of  Loongo  and  Benguela  furnish  good  iron. 
Copper  and  silver  ores  are  said  also  to  occur  in  Angola, 
particularly  in  the  kingdom  of  Majomba.  There  are  alva 
some  considerable  mines  of  copper  in  Anziko. 


DISTRIBUTION   OF   MOUNTAINS,  ETC.         269 

BamT>a,  situated  on  the  coast,  has  large  salt  pits.  Its 
mountains,  rich  in  metals,  extend  as  far  as  Angola.  The 
province  of  Sandi  contains  ores  of  iron  and  of  yellow  cop- 
per ore. 

The  coast  from  Cape  Negro,  in  lat.  16°  S.,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Orange  River,  an  extent  upwards  of  one  thousand 
miles,  consists  of  sand  hills,  without  a  tree  or  drop  of 
water,  having  in  this  great  space  only  three  bays,  which 
are  completely  exposed  to  the  north-west  wind,  viz.  the 
Great  Fish  Bay,  Walvisch  Bay,  and  Angra  Pequina.  The 
geology  of  this  coast  is  entirely  unknown. 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  District. — This  district  is  bounded 
on  the  north  and  east  by  the  Orange  and  Fish  Rivers  ;  on 
the  west  and  south  by  the  ocean.  The  country  extends 
from  S.  lat.  26°  to  S.  lat.  33°  55'  40",  that  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  It  includes  the  country  inhabited  by  the 
Hottentot  race  and  the  Boshuanas. 

Distribution  of  the  Chains  of  Mountains,  Plains,  and  Vol' 
leys  or  Kloofs. — Two  great  chains  of  mountains  run  paral- 
lel with  the  western  coast,  having  between  them  and  the 
coast  a  sandy  plain  from«five  to  ten  miles  in  breadth.  From 
the  most  easterly  of  these  two  chains  branch  off  three 
others,  running  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  equator, 
between  which  are  the  like  number  of  terraces,  including 
altogether  a  space  of  between  two  and  three  degrees  of 
latitude.  The  two  southernmost  of  these  chains  are  united 
at  several  points  with  the  western,  and  form  the  vast 
ridges  which,  under  the  names  Zwartebergen  or  Black 
Mountains,  run  like  a  steep  wall  from  west  to  east,  broken 
only  at  intervals  by  the  streams  which  flow  from  them  from 
the  Karroo.  The  two  principal  of  these  chains  terminate 
at  Kromme  Rivers'  Bay  and  at  Algoa  Bay.  Smaller 
branches  run  down  to  Mossel  Bay  and  Plattenbergs  Bay. 
Tlie  level  country  between  the  southern  chain  and  the  coast 
constantly  decreases  in  breadth,  from  the  spot  where  this 
chain  branches  off  from  the  western  mountains  till  it  is  lost 
near  Kromme  Rivers'  Bay.  Towards  the  north  several 
long  and  spacious  valleys  run  between  the  chains  of  the 
Black  Mountains,  the  principal  of  which  are,  the  Kokman's 
Kloof,  Kango,  the  Valley  of  the  Elephant  River,  and  Long 
Kloof.  It  is  only  at  a  few  points,  and  even  at  these  not  without 
some  dandier  and  dilliculty,  that  the  Black  Mountains  can 
Z2 


270  DISTRIBUTION   OF   MOTJNTAINS,  ETC. 

De  crossed  to  the  terrace  north  of  them,  and  which  is  some 
thousand  feet  higher  than  the  other  two  terraces,  known 
Under  the  name  Great  Karroo.*  The  tract  enclosed  between 
these  two  chains  of  mountains  is  partly  fertile,  but  inter- 
spersed with  tracts  of  arid  clay-land  called  Karroo.  This 
plain  or  terrace,  forming  the  third  terrace  of  Southern  Africa, 
about  300  miles  in  length  and  80  in  breadth,  and  principally 
ri  parched  desert,  occupies  the  whole  of  that  very  large 
space  lying  between  the  Black  Mountains  and  the  third 
great  branch  from  the  western  hills,  called  the  Nieuweveld 
Mountains.  These  latter  again  unite  themselves,  after  run- 
ning for  a  long  extent  from  west  to  east,  with  another  chain 
of  mountains  running  from  north  to  south,  forming  at  their 
junction  that  remarkable  group  of  mountains  called  the 
Sneuwbergen  or  Snow  Mountains.  The  Nieuweveld  and 
Sneuwberg  Mountains  are  said  to  be  the  highest  in  Southern 
Africa,  some  of  them  being  10,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  country,  from  this  vast  range  of  mountains 
to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Cape  Colony,  may  be  con- 
sidered as  a  lofty  plain,  part  indeed  of  the  great  Table-land 
of  Africa,  free  from  large  mountains,  but  here  and  there 
varied  with  ranges  and  hills  of  moderate  dimensions,  having 
very  few  rivers,  and  all  of  these  nearly  dried  up  in  sunmaer ; 
quite  destitute  of  trees  and  grass,  but  every  where  covered 
with  bu&hes  springing  out  of  a  naked  red  soil,  deprived  of 
moisture  during  a  great  part  of  the  year.  The  bushes  are 
not  more  than  a  foot  or  two  in  height,  excepting  various 
kinds  of  lijcium,  and  almost  exclusively  belong  to  the  natu- 
ral order  of  composite  flowers.  One  general  cast  of  fea- 
tures, not  peculiar,  however,  to  this  district,  pervades  all 
these  vegetables, — a  minute  and  arid  foliage.  Yet  on  these 
all  the  cattle  browse,  and  such  wild  animals  as  are  herbivo- 
rous. The  mountains  vary  in  form  ;  the  most  prevalent 
shape  is  the  tabular ;  and  of  these  splendid  displays  occur 
in  many  parts  of  the  country,  which  are  well  represented 
in  the  plates  in  Professor  Lichtenstein's  Travels,  and  also 
in  those  of  Mr.  Burchell.  Deep  and  extensive  cliffs  are  of 
frequent  occurrence,  exhibiting  all  the  magnificent  scenery 
60  characteristic  of  the  great  sandstone  or  quartz  formation, 

*  The  word  Karroo,  written  Karro  by  Burchell,  belongs  to  the  Hot- 
lentot  language,  and  signifies  dry  or  ari(L 


KARRJO  PLAINS.  271 

^hich  predominates  in  Southern  Africa.  The  mountain- 
ranges  are  in  many  places  traversed  by  deep  valleys,  named 
kloofs.  These  are  the  passes  that  lead  across  from  one  part 
of  the  country  to  the  other,  and  which  appear  to  have  been 
originally  vast  rents,  which  have  become  wider  by  the  action 
of  the  atmosphere  and  running  water.  The  inclined  plain, 
or  space  between  the  most  southern  range  of  mountains  and 
the  seacoast,  varies  from  20  to  60  miles  in  breadth,  and, 
reckoning  from  the  interior  of  the  country,  forms  the  third 
terrace  of  Southern  Africa.  The  flat  tract  enclosed  between 
the  southern  chain  and  the  Zwarteberg  forms  the  second 
terrace.  The  vast  tract,  or  the  Great  Karroo,  contained 
between  the  Zwarteberg  and  the  Nieuweveld  Gebirgte,  is 
the  Jirst  terrace.  The  second  and  first  terraces,  which  con- 
tain so  much  Karroo  ground,  may  formerly  have  been  inland 
seas  or  lakes.  The  great  bank  of  gravel,  sand,  and  clay 
which  ranges  along  the  coast  and  under  the  sea,  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Natal,  and  to  south  lat.  37°,  may  be 
considered  as  another  terrace. 

Description  of  the  Karroo  Plains. — The  Karroo  ground^ 
which  forms  so  striking  a  feature  in  the  external  aspect  of 
the  Cape  district,  is  loam  or  sandy  clay,  mixed  with  parti- 
cles of  ochre  of  iron.  Lichtenstein  says  it  is  not  more  thjin 
a  foot  in  thickness.  This  may  apply  to  some,  but  by  no 
means  to  the  greater  number  of  localities.  From  the  nature 
of  the  soil,  and  other  concomitant  causes,  the  vegetation 
must  at  all  times  be  very  meager ;  and  in  summer,  when 
the  sun  has  dried  the  soil  to  the  hardness  of  brick,  it  ceases 
almost  entirely.  The  mesembryanthemurru,  and  some  other 
succulent  plants  ;  some  kinds  of  gorteria,  of  bergia,  and  of 
alters,  whose  roots,  like  the  bulbs  of  lilacious  plants,  nature 
has  fortified  with  a  tenfold  net  of  fibres  under  the  upper 
rind,  to  protect  them  against  the  hardened  clay  :  such  plants 
alone  resist  the  destructive  nature  of  this  inhospitable  soil. 

As  soon  as,  in  the  cooler  season,  the  rains  begin  to  fall 
and  penetrate  into  the  hard  layer  of  loam,  these  fibres  im- 
bibe the  moisture,  and,  pushing  aside  the  clay,  the  germ 
of  the  plant,  under  their  protection,  begins  to  shoot,  and  in 
a  few  days  the  arid  waste  is  covered  with  a  delicate  green 
covering.  Soon  after,  myriads  of  flowers  ornament  the 
whole  surface.  "  The  mild  midday  sun,"  says  Lichten- 
stein, "  expands  the  radiated  crowns  of  the  mesembiyan- 


fi72  KARROO   PLAINS. 

theraums  and  gorteriae,  and  the  young  green  of  the  plant* 
is  almost  hidden  by  the  glowing  colours  of  their  full-blown 
flowers,  while  the  w^hole  air  is  perfumed  with  the  most 
fragrant  odour.  The  odour  is  more  particularly  delightful, 
when,  after  a  calm  day,  the  sun  decUnes,  and  the  warm 
breath  of  the  flowers  rests  quietly  on  the  plain.  At  this 
time  the  whole  dreary  desert  is  transformed  into  one  con- 
tinued garden  of  flowers.  The  colonist,  with  his  herds 
and  his  flocks,  leaves  the  Snowy  Mountains,  and,  descending 
into  the  plain,  there  finds  a  plentiful  and  wholesome  supply 
of  food  for  the  animals  ;  while  troops  of  the  tall  ostrich 
and  the  wandering  antelope,  driven  also  from  the  heights, 
share  the  repast,  and  enliven  the  scene.  But  how  soon  is 
the  country  again  deprived  of  all  its  glory !  It  scarcely 
•continues  more  than  one  month,  unless  late  rains,  which 
must  not  often  be  expected,  call  forth  the  plants  again  into 
new  life.  As  the  days  begin  to  lengthen,  the  increasing 
power  of  the  midday  ray  checks  once  more  the  lately  awa- 
kened powers  of  vegetation.  The  flowers  soon  fade  and 
fall,  the  stems  and  leaves  dry,  and  the  hard  coat  of  soil 
locks  up  the  germs  until  the  rains  return  ;  the  succulent 
plants  alone  still  furnish  food  for  the  herds  and  flocks.  The 
streams  soon  begin  to  drj',  the  springs  almost  cease  to  flow, 
till  at  length  the  universal  drought  compels  the  colonists  to 
return  to  the  mountains  ;  yet  even  then  they  quit  the  plain 
•with  reluctance,  and  the  flocks,  accustomed  to  endure  thirst, 
still  linger  behind,  feeding  on  the  succulent  plants,  which 
aflbrd  at  once  food  and  drink,  and  are  particularly  salutary 
to  those  that  bear  wool.  Every  day,  however,  the  Karroo 
becomes  more  and  more  solitary,  and  by  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember it  is  wholly  deserted.  The  hardened  clay  bursts 
into  a  thousand  cracks,  which  evince  to  the  traveller  the 
great  power  of  an  African  sun.  Every  trace  of  verdure  is 
vanished,  and  the  hard  red  soil  is  covered  over  with  a  brown 
dust,  formed  from  the  ashes  of  the  dried  and  withered 
plants.  Yet  among  these  ashes  is  the  seed  nourished  that 
is  to  produce  future  generations,  and  the  relics  of  one  year's 
vegetation  furnishes  manure  that  is  to  cherish  the  germs  till 
the  next  year's  rain  again  brings  them  forth." 

Lichtenstein  thus  describes  his  first  view  of  the  Great 
Karroo  : — "  The  space  between  the  mountain-ranges  is  the 
Great   Karrooi  as  it  is  calltj  a  parched  and  arid  plain. 


GEOGNOSY  OF  THE  CAPE  PENINSULA.  2/3 

stretching  out  to  such  an  extent  that  the  vast  hills  by  which 
it  is  terminated  are  almost  lost  in  the  distance.  The  beds 
of  numberless  little  rivers  cross,  like  veins,  in  a  thousand 
directions,  this  enormous  space  ;  the  course  of  them  might 
in  some  places  be  clearly  distinguished  by  the  dark-green  of 
the  mimosas  v^rhich  spread  along  their  banks.  Excepting 
these,  nowhere,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  a  tree 
to  be  seen,  nor  even  a  shrub,  or  any  signs  whatever 
of  Ufe." 

As  the  geology  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Town  is  that  best  known  to  us  of  any  part  of  Southern 
Africa,  we  shall  first  describe  the  arrangements  observed  in 
that  quarter,  and  afterward  notice  what  is  known  of  the 
rocks  of  other  parts  of  this  division  of  Africa. 

Geognosy  of  the  Peninsula  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.— 
The  peninsula  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  is  a  mountainous 
ridge,  stretching  nearly  north  and  south  for  forty  or  fifty 
miles,  and  connected  on  the  east  side,  and  near  its  northern 
extremity,  with  the  main  body  of  Africa,  by  a  flat  sandy 
isthmus,  about  ten  miles  broad,  having  Table  Bay  on  the 
north  of  it,  and  False  Bay  on  the  south.  The  southern  ex- 
tremity of  this  peninsula,  extending  into  the  sea,  with 
False  Bay  on  the  east,  and  the  ocean  on  the  south  and  west, 
is  properly  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  is  nearly  the  most 
southern  point  of  Africa.  At  this  point  the  chain  of  moun- 
tains which  forms  the  peninsula,  though  rugged,  is  lower 
than  at  the  north  end,  where  it  is  terminated  by  Table 
Mountain  and  two  others,  which  form  an  amphitheatre 
overlooking  Table  Bay,  and  opening  to  the  north.  The 
mountains  of  the  ridges  extending  from  the  Cape  to  the 
termination  of  the  peninsula  in  the  north,  vary  in  shape ; 
but  the  most  frequent  forms  incline  more  or  less  to  sharp 
conical.  The  three  mountains  that  terminate  the  peninsula 
on  the  north  are,  the  Table  Mountain  in  the  middle  ;  the 
Lion's  Head,  sometimes  called  the  Sugar  Loaf,  on  the  west 
side ;  and  the  Devil's  Peak  on  the  east.  The  liion's 
Head,  which  is  about  2160  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
is  separated  from  the  Table  Mountain  by  a  valley  that  de- 
scends to  the  depth  of  1500  or  2000  feet  below  the  summit 
of  the  Table  Mountain,  which  is  itself  3582  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  On  the  west  of  the  Lion's  Head  there  is  a 
lower  eminence,  named  the  Lion's  Rump,  1142  feet  high, 


274  GEOGNOSY  OF  THE  CAPE  PENINSULA. 

from  which  the  ground  declines  gradually  to  the  sea.  The 
amphitheatre  formed  by  these  three  nwuntains  is  about  five 
or  six  miles  in  diameter,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  placed 
Cape  Town. 

The  rocks  of  which  this  peninsula  is  composed  are  few  in 
number,  and  of  simple  structure.  They  are  granite,  gneiss, 
clay-slate,  greywacke,  quartz  rock,  sandstone,  and  augite- 
greenstone,  or  dolerite.  Of  these  the  most  abundant  are 
granite  and  sandstone  ;  the  next  in  frequency  are  clay-slate 
and  greywacke  ;  and  the  least  frequent  are  gneiss  and  do- 
lerite. In  some  parts,  as  at  the  Steinberg,  the  sandstone  is 
traversed  by  veins  of  red  iron  ore.  Abel  mentions  a  vein 
six  feet  wide,  and  extending  for  upwards  of  one  hundred 
feet. 

The  strata  of  the  Neptunian  rocks,  or  those  whose  forma- 
tion is  connected  with  the  operation  of  water,  generally 
range  from  west  to  east, — that  is,  across  the  peninsula. 
The  southern  and  middle  parts  of  the  peninsula  have  been 
but  imperfectly  examined.  Captain  Hall  remarks,  that  the 
same  general  structure  and  relations  seem  to  occur  all  over 
ihe  peninsula  as  in  the  mountains  around  Cape  Town. 
The  late  Dr.  Clarke  Abel,  in  the  account  of  his  voyage  to 
China,  gives  the  following  description  of  a  fine  display  of 
stratification  in  a  mountain  that  faces  the  sea,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Simon's  Bay,  which  was  pointed  out  to  him 
by  one  of  our  pupils,  an  active  and  intelligent  officer,  Cap- 
tain Wauchope,  R.  N.  : — "  The  sandstone  forming  the 
upper  part  of  the  mountain  is  of  a  reddish  colour,  very 
crystalline  in  its  structure,  and  approaching,  in  some  speci- 
mens, to  quartz  rock.  Immediately  beneath  the  sandstone 
is  a  bed  of  compact  dark-red  argillaceous  sandstone,  passings 
in  many  places,  into  slate  of  the  same  colour.  This  bed 
rests  upon  another  of  very  coarse  loosely-combined  sand- 
stone, resembling  gravel.  Under  this  is  another  layer  of 
dark-red  sandstone,  terminating  in  a  conglomerate,  consist- 
ing of  decomposed  crystals  of  felspar,  and  of  rounded  and 
angular  fragments  of  quartz,  from  the  size  of  a  millet-seed 
to  that  of  a  plover's  egg,  imbedded  in  a  red  sandstone  base. 
Beneath  the  conglomerate  commences  a  bed,  which  I  at 
first  took  for  granite,  and  which  is  composed  of  the  consti- 
tuents of  granite  in  a  decomposed  state,  intermixed  with 
green  steatite,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  red  sandstone 


THE  LION'S  RUMP.  275 

to  give  it  a  reddish  hue.  The  felspar  of  the  bed  i»  decom- 
posed, and  exactly  resembles  that  of  the  conglomerate 
above  it.  The  mica  seems,  in  a  good  measure,  to  have 
passed  into  steatite.  The  quartz  is  in  small  crystals,  fre- 
quently having  their  angles  rounded.  This  bed  is  several 
feet  in  thickness,  and  gradually  terminates  in  the  granite  ; 
but  the  precise  line  of  junction  I  was  unable  to  trace.  The 
appearances  thus  were  in  the  following  order  : — 

1.  Horizontally-stratified  sandstone. 

2.  Bed  of  compact  dark-red  sandstone,  passing  into 
slate. 

3.  A  bed  of  coarse  sandstone  resembling  gravel. 

4.  A  second  layer  of  compact  dark-red  sandstone,  passing, 

5.  Into  a  conglomerate,  consisting  of  decomposed  crystals 
of  felspar,  and  fragments  of  quartz  in  a  sandstone  basis. 

6.  A  bed  composed  of  the  decomposed  constituents  of 
granite  and  red  sandstone,  passing, 

7.  Into  granite." 

The  above  is  the  only  spot  to  the  southward  of  the  range 
of  mountains  near  Cape  Town  which  has  been  particularly 
described  in  a  geognostical  view.  To  the  northward  of 
Cape  Town,  it  is  said  that  the  mountains  ?re  principally 
composed  of  the  same  rocks  as  those  which  occur  through- 
out the  peninsula,  and  whose  characters  and  position  have 
been  examined  with  considerable  attention  in  the  Lion's 
Rump,  Lion's  Head,  Table  Mountain,  and  Devil's  Peak,  by 
our  pupils  the  late  Dr.  Clarke  Abel,  Dr.  Adam,  now  of 
Calcutta,  the  late  Captain?  Carmichael,  and  also  by  Captain 
Basil  Hall.  From  the  observations  fiirnished  to  us  by  these 
naturalists,  and  also  from  accounts  published  by  them,  we 
have  drawn  up  the  following  description  : — 

LioiCs  Rump. — The  Lion's  Rump  rises  by  an  easy 
ascent,  and,  excepting  at  one  or  two  points,  is  covered  to 
the  summit  with  a  thin  soil,  bearing  a  scanty  vegetation. 
Dr.  Adam  informs  us  that  vegetables  appeared  to  be  most 
luxuriant  over  the  sandstone  of  the  peninsula,  but  less  so 
on  the  soil  formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the  granite,  and, 
least  of  all,  over  clay-slate,  as  on  the  Lion's  Rump,  where 
clay-slate  is  the  predominating  rock.  Although  this  latter 
hill  has  been  cultivated  in  some  places,  yet  it  presents  a 


276  THE  lion's  head. 

stunted  vegetation ;  while  the  upper  part  of  Lion's  Head 
and  Table  Mountain,  though  much  more  elevated,  display 
rich  and  more  vigorous  shrubs.*  It  is  composed  of  clay- 
slate,  greywacke,  and  sandstone.  The  clay-slate  and  grey- 
wacke  appear  to  alternate,  and  the  sandstone  rests  upon 
the  slate.  The  slate  is  distinctly  stratified ;  the  strata  on 
one  side  of  the  hill  dip  to  the  north,  on  the  opposite  to  the 
south,  and  in  the  middle  or  centre  of  the  hill  they  are 
'  nearly  perpendicular.  Numerous  veins  of  compact  quartz 
traverse  the  strata  in  all  directions.  A  quarry,  which  has 
been  wrought  to  a  considerable  extent  on  the  east  side  of 
the  hill,  exhibits  a  fine  view  of  the  structure  of  the  clay- 
slate,  and  in  one  place  there  is  a  bed  of  sandstone  in  the 
slate.  The  sandstone,  which  is  of  a  yellowish-gray  colour, 
is  composed  of  grains  of  quartz,  with  disseminated  felspar 
and  scales  of  mica. 

Lion's  Head. — The  strata  of  clay-slate  continue  to  the 
base  of  the  Lion's  Head.  Here  they  are  succeeded  by 
strata  of  compact  gneiss,  composed  of  gray  felspar  and 
quartz,  with  much  dark-brown  mica  in  small  scales.  It 
much  resembles  the  gneiss  interposed  between  granite  and 
clay-slate  in  the  transition  mountains  in  the  south  of  Scot- 
land ;  as  at  Criffel,  and  near  New  Galloway  in  Kirkcud- 
brightshire. The  gneiss  is  distinctly  stratified,  and  the 
strata  in  some  places  dip  under  the  next  rock,  which  is  gra- 
nite ;  in  others,  they  dip  from  it.  Numerous  transitions  are 
observed  from  the  granite  into  the  gneiss  ;  and  in  the  same 
bed  of  compact  gneiss,  one  part  will  be  gneiss,  while  another 
will  be  granite.  Beds  of  granite,  in  some  places,  appear 
to  alternate  with  the  gneiss.  Veins  of  granite,  from  a 
few  inches  in  width  to  several  feet,  traverse  the  gneiss  and 
clay-slate,  and  are  observed  projecting  from  the  body  of  the 
granite,  and  shooting  among  the  neighbouring  slaty  strata. 

*  Constantia,  so  celebrated  for  its  wine,  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of 
the  range  leading  from  Cape  Town  to  Simon's  Bay,  where  sandstone  is 
the  predominating  rock ;  and  the  soil  of  the  farms  of  the  neighbouring 
ground  appears  to  be  composed  of  it,  in  a  state  of  decomposit  on,  and  of 
vegetable  mould.  That  it  is  the  sandstone  which  essentially  contributes 
to  the  excellence  of  the  soil  Dr.  Adam  is  inclined  to  believe,  from  having 
observed  several  spots  at  the  foot  of  tlie  same  range,  nearer  Cape  Town, 
with  a  soil  richer  in  vegetabe  mould,  but  whose  produce  was  held  much 
infenor.  The  principal  rock  there  was  granite,  and  its  superincumbent 
sandstone  has  sufTered  less  decomposition  than  that  adjoining  to  Con 
Btantia, 


TABLE  MOUNTAIN.  277 

Granite  forms  a  considerable  portion  of  the  Lion^s  Head. 
It  is  composed  of  pale-red  felspar,  gray  quartz,  and  brown- 
ish-black mica.  It  is  more  frequently  coarse  granular  than 
fine  granular,  and  is  often  porphyritic.  It  is  occasionally 
traversed  by  veins  of  quartz,  or  of  felspar,  or  of  granite. 
In  some  parts  the  granite  is  traversed  by  veins  of  dolerite  or 
augite-greenstone,  and  one  of  these  veins,  as  described  by 
Dr.  Abel,  appears  divided  and  shifted.  This  appearance  is 
represented  in  No.  3  of  Dr.  Abel's  Geological  Views  at  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  As  we  ascend  the  mountain,  we  find 
the  granite  succeeded  first  by  a  reddish  sandstone,  and  this, 
in  its  turn,  is  covered  by  a  brown  sandstone  that  reaches  to 
the  summit.  These  sandstones  are  principally  composed 
of  granular  concretions  of  quartz,  with  a  few  disseminated 
grains  of  felspar  and  scales  of  mica.  The  sandstone  is 
distinctly  stratified,  and  the  strata  dip  at  a  small  angle  all 
around  the  Lion's  Head  and  the  north-west  side  of  the 
Table  Mountain.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  latter,  how- 
ever, from  the  seabeach,  we  may  see  it,  beyond  the  gorges, 
making  an  angle  with  the  horizon  of  not  less  than  45°. 
Dr.  Adams  says,  "  During  a  ride  to  Constantia  one  day,  I 
observed  this  high  inclination  more  particularly  on  the  ridge 
extending  from  the  Devil's  Peak  by  Simon's  Bay  :  and, 
having  afterward  visited  the  spot  on  purpose, /owntZ  the 
sandstone  very  much  elevated  in  its  position  above  the  common 
level  of  the  strata,  and,  at  one  place,  nearly  perpendicular  to 
the  horizon,  running  from  north-east  to  south-west.^* 

Table  Mountain. — The  next  and  highest  mountain,  the 
Table  Mountain,  presents  many  interesting  appearances. 
The  lowest  part  of  the  mountain,  on  one  side,  is  red  sand- 
stone ;  higher  up,  and  apparently  rising  from  under  it,  are 
clay-slate,  greywacke,  and  gneiss.  These  rocks  are  dis- 
posed in  strata,  arranged  nearly  in  a  vertical  position,  with 
An  east  and  west  direction.  They  are  intermingled  with 
granite,  which  is  the  next  rock  on  the  ascent  of  the  moun- 
tain. The  granite,  at  its  line  of  junction  with  the  slate, 
both  gneiss  and  clay-slate,  is  often  much  intermixed  with 
them ;  and  numerous  veins  of  granite  shoot  f'om  the  mass 
of  the  granite  rock  itself  into  the  bounding  strata.  At  a 
higher  level  than  the  granite,  sandstone  makes  its  appear- 
ance, and  continues  upwards  to  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain. The  lowest  of  the  summit  sandstone  is  of  a  reddish 
A  a 


278  devil's  peak. 

colour  4  the  next  above  it  is  of  a  yellowish  colour ;  and  tho 
upper  part,  or  that  on  the  summit,  is  of  a  gray  or  beautifully 
white  colour,  and  sometimes  so  coarsely  granular  as  to  ap- 
pear in  the  state  of  conglomerate.  In  many  places,  the  sand- 
stone passes  into  quartz  rock,  and  is  very  highly  crystalline. 
The  sandstone  is  distinctly  stratified,  and  nearly  horizontal. 

DeviVs  Peak. — The  most  easterly  mountain  of  the  group 
we  are  describing,  named  the  Devil's  Peak,  agrees  with 
Table  Mountain  in  the  nature  and  arrangement  of  the  rocks 
of  which  it  is  composed.  The  lower  part  of  the  mountain 
exhibits  strata  of  clay-slate ;  these,  as  we  ascend,  are  suc- 
ceeded by  granite  ;  and  the  upper  parts  and  summit  are  of 
the  usual  varieties  of  sandstone.* 

*  The  following  particulars,  in  regard  to  the  mountains  near  Cape 
Town,  were  communicated  to  us  by  Captain  Carmichael.  The  Table 
Mountain  and  Lion's  H^ad  rest  upon  a  base  of  granite ;  Green  Point, 
Table  Valley,  and  the  Devil's  Peak,  on  a  base  of  slate,  of  which  the  whole 
of  the  Lion's  Back  or  Rump  is  composed.  The  granite  extends  up  to  the 
rocky  crown  of  tlie  Lion's  Head, — an  elevation  of  nearly  1500  feet;  and 
the  declivity  of  the  mountain  is  strewed  with  enormous  masses  of  it 
On  the  side  of  the  Table  Mountain,  the  space  on  which  the  granite  ia 
visible  is  contracted  to  about  500  feet,  and  occupies  the  centre  ofthedecli 
vity.  At  the  spot  called  Sea  Point,  the  granite  and  slate  come  in  cotrtact. 
In  the  space  of  200  yards  along  the  shore,  the  reef  is  a  mixture  of  these 
two  rocks,  each  predominating  in  the  mass  as  you  approach  its  respec- 
tive side,  where  it  is  pure  and  unmixed.  In  some  parts  they  form  alter- 
nating layers ;  in  others,  fragments  of  the  slate,  of  all  figures  and  sizes, 
lie  imbedded  in  the  granite,  which  appears  to  have  pervaded  their  mi- 
nutest fissures.  Between  this  mixed  mass,  however,  and  this  pure  slate, 
there  is  interposed  a  rampart  of  granite,  apparently  diflerent  from  the 
common  sort,  which,  for  about  200  yards,  is  unmixed ;  but,  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  slate,  becomes  mingled  with  it  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
granite.  From  this  to  Green  Point,  and  extending  through  Robben 
Island,  a  distance  of  about  twelve  miles,  the  slate  is  pure,  and  disposed 
in  nearly  vertical  strata. 

Close  to  the  i)ath  which  leads  from  Cape  Town  to  the  summit  of  the 
Table  Mountain,  there  runs  a  stream,  which,  at  the  point  where  the  gra- 
nite and  slate  meet,  has  carried  off  the  superincumbent  earth,  and  ex- 
posed the  surface  of  the  rock  from  ten  to  twenty  yards  in  diameter,  and 
about  200  yards  in  length,  dipping  at  an  angle  ef  about  30°.  Along  the 
whole  of  this  space  the  slate  is  intersected  by  veins  of  granite,  varying 
from  three  feet  in  width  to  aa  many  lines.  The  veins  branch  off  in  all 
directions,  some  straight,  others  twisted  in  the  most  fantastic  convolu- 
tions. In  the  face  of  the  rampart  which  borders  the  channel  on  each 
side,  the  veins  are  equally  conspicuous.  In  walking  along  the  shore, 
from  Campo  Bay  to  Sea  Point,  we  meet  with  vinnerous veins  of  angite- 
greenstone  in  the  granite,  varying  in  breadth  from  an  inch  to  ten  feet, 
and  branching  in  as  many  directions  aa  those  of  the  granite  with  the 
ilate.  Here  also  are  to  be  seen  nvunerous  fragments  of  slate  in  tbfl 
granite. 


UPRAISING  OF  THE  PENINSULA.  279 

To  whit  Class  of  Rocks  do  those  of  the  Cape  Peninsula 
belong  1 — To  what  class  or  classes  of  formations  of  the  geog- 
nostical  series  are  we  to  refer  the  rocks  of  the  mountains 
just  described]  From  the  clay-slate  containing  beds  of 
grcywacke,  we  infer  that  the  slate  belongs  to  the  transi- 
tion class ; — from  the  granite  being  intermingled  with  the 
slate,  we  consider  it  as  probably  belonging  to  the  same 
epoch.  The  sandstone  is  generally  considered  as  belonging 
to  the  secondary  class, — an  opinion,  the  accuracy  of  which 
may  be  questioned  ;  because  we  find  this  rock  in  beds  in  the 
slate,  and  also  passing  into  and  alternating  with  beds  of  a 
transition  rock,  namely,  quartz  rock.  This  being  the  case, 
we  are  disposed  to  refer  it  also  to  the  transition  class  ;  and 
the  great  mass  of  it  to  the  newest  or  uppermost  portion  of 
the  series. 

At  what  Period  did  the  Cape  Rocks  rise  above  the  Level  of 
the  Sea  1 — This  question  has  been  variously  answered,  ac- 
cording to  the  geological  creed  of  those  who  have  considered 
the  subject.  The  Neptunians  maintain,  on  plausible  grounds, 
that  all  these  rocks  are  crystallizations  and  deposites  from 
the  ancient  waters  of  the  globe,  which  have  taken  place  in 
succession, — the  granite  being  the  first  formed,  the  slate 
and  greywacke  the  next,  and  last  of  all,  the  principal  portion 
of  the  sandstone ;  that,  during  the  deposition  of  these 
different  rocks,  the  level  of  the  ocean  gradually  sunk ;  and 
that  thus  the  mountains  rose  above  its  surface.  The  Plu- 
tonians,  or  the  supporters  of  the  igneous  origin  of  the  gra- 
nular crystallized  rocks,  view  the  formation  in  a  difl!erent 
manner.  Some  of  the  advocates  of  the  igneous  system 
maintain,  that  the  slate  was  first  deposited  in  horizontal 
strata,  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea, — that  these  strata  were 
afterward  softened  by  heat,  and  raised  from  their  original 
horizontal  to  their  present  highly  inclined  position,  by  the 
action  of  fluid  granite  rising  from  the  interior  of  the  earth  ; 
and  that  in  this  way  the  granite  and  slate  mountains  were 
elevated  above  the  sea :  that  the  sea  again  invaded  the  land 
and  covered  it  to  a  great  depth ;  and  that  from  this  ocean 
was  deposited  the  sandstone  strata  :   that  the  sea   again 

The  sandstone  which  forms  the  upper  part  of  the  Table  Mountain, 
Lion's  Head,  and  Devil's  Peak  lies  on  horizontal  strata,  intersected  by 
vertical  fissures.  It  is  of  a  siliceous  nature,  and  encloses  rounded  no 
dules  of  quartz. 


280   RECENT  EMERGENCE  OF  LAND  DISPROVED. 

retired,  and  left  exposed  mountains,  and  chains  of  mountain* 
of  sandstone.  Other  Plutonians  are  of  opinion  that  the 
slate,  greywacke,  and  sandstone  were  deposited,  in  unmler- 
rupted  succession,  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea ;  and  that  the 
whole  mass  of  stratified  matter  was  raised  gradually  or  sud- 
denly above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  forming  mountains,  chains 
of  mountains,  and  table-lands,  by  that  igneous  agency  which 
sent  up  the  granite,  and  probably  also  the  augite-greenstone 
rocks.  This,  of  the  two  Plutonian  views,  is  the  most  plausible, 
and  indeed  is  that  explanation  which  may  be  viewed  as  most 
in  accordance  with  prevailing  geological  hypotheses. 

Vegetables  incrustcd  with  Calcareous  Sand  confounded  vrith 
Coral,  atid  adduced  as  a  Proof  of  the  very  recent  Emergence^ 
from  ike  Ocean,  of  the  Lands  supporting  them. — Somewhat 
to  the  eastward  of  Simon's  Town  is  a  large  bank,  one  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  formed  by  an  accumula- 
tion of  sand  and  shells,  brought  there  by  the  action  of  the 
wind.  On  this  bank  Abel  observed  a  number  of  cylindrical 
calcareous  bodies  scattered  about,  which  at  first  appeared 
like  bleached  bones.  On  a  closer  examination  many  of  them 
are  found  to  be  branched,  and  others  are  discovered  rising 
through  the  soil,  and  ramifying  from  a  stem  beneath,  thicker 
than  themselves.  They  are  incrustations  of  sand  and  cal- 
careous matter  on  vegetables.  Similar  bodies  have  been 
found  by  Vancouver,  Flinders,  and  Perron,  on  the  shores  of 
New-Holland,  at  considerable  elevations.  The  first-men- 
tioned traveller  considered  them  all  as  coral,  and  as  proofs 
of  the  land  having  been  lately  withdrawn  from  the  dominion 
of  the  waters.  The  last  has  described  two  kinds  of  sub- 
stances ;  the  one  he  considers  as  coral,  the  other  as  incrusta- 
tions on  vegetables.  Captain  Flinders,  at  page  48,  vol.  i. 
of  his  Voyage  Round  the  World,  says, — "  The  appearance 
of  this  country  along  the  coast  resembles,  in  most  respects, 
that  of  Africa  about  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  surface 
seemed  to  be  chiefly  composed  of  sand,  mixed  with  decayed 
vegetables,  varying  exceedingly  in  point  of  richness,  and, 
although  bearing  a  great  similarity,  yet  indicating  a  soil  su 
perior  in  quality  to  that  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  ol 
Cape  Town.  The  principal  component  part  of  this  country 
appeared  to  be  coral ;  and  it  would  seem  that  its  elevation 
above  the  ocean  is  of  modern  date,  not  only  from  the  shores 
and  the  bank  which  extends  along  the  coast  being,  generally 


RECENT  EMERGENCE  OF  LAND  DISPROVED.    281 

epeaking,  composed  of  coral,  as  was  evident  by  our  lead 
never  descending  to  the  bottom  without  bringing  up  coral  on 
its  return,  but  by  coral  being  found  on  the  highest  hills  we 
ascended,  particularly  on  the  summit  of  Bald  Head^  which 
is  sufficiently  above  the  level  of  the  sea  to  be  seen  12  or  14 
leagues  distant.  Here  the  coral  was  entirely  in  its  original 
state,  particularly  in  one  level  spot,  comprehending  about 
eight  acres,  which  produced  not  the  least  herbage  on  the 
white  sand  that  occupied  this  space,  through  which  the 
branches  of  coral  protruded,  and  were  found  standing  exactly 
like  those  seen  in  the  beds  of  coral  beneath  the  surface  of 
the  sea,  with  ramifications  of  different  sizes,  some  not  half 
an  inch,  others  four  or  five  inches  in  circumference.  In 
these  fields  of  coral  (if  the  term  field  be  allowable),  of  which 
there  were  several,  seashells  were  in  great  abundance, — 
some  nearly  in  a  perfect  state,  still  adhering  to  the  coral, 
others  in  diflerent  stages  of  decay.  The  coral  was  friable 
in  various  degrees  ;  the  extremities  of  the  branches,  some 
of  which  were  nearly  four  feet  above  the  sand,  were  easily 
reduced  to  powder,  while  those  close  to  or  under  the  sur- 
face, required  some  small  force  to  break  them  from  the  rocky 
foundation  from  whence  they  appeared  to  spring.  I  have 
seen  coral  in  many  places  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  sea ;  but  in  no  other  instance  have  I  seen  it  so  elevated 
and  in  such  a  state  of  perfection."  Captain  Flinders,  at 
page  63,  vol.  i.  of  his  Voyage  to  Terra  Austrahs,  has  the 
following  remarks  on  the  same  appearance : — "  Captain 
Vancouver  mentions  having  found,  upon  the  top  of  Bald 
Head,  branches  of  coral  protruding  through  the  sand,  exactly 
like  those  seen  in  the  coral  beds  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
sea, — a  circumstance  which  should  seem  to  bespeak  this 
country  to  have  emerged  from  the  ocean  at  no  very  distant 
period  of  time.  This  curious  fact  I  was  desirous  to  verify, 
and  his  description  was  proved  to  be  correct.  I  found  also 
two  broken  columns  of  stone,  three  or  four  feet  high,  formed 
like  stumps  of  trees,  and  of  a  thickness  superior  to  the  body 
of  a  man  ;  but  whether  they  were  of  coral,  or  of  wood  now 
petrified,  or  whether  they  might  not  have  been  calcareous 
rocks,  worn  into  that  particular  form  by  the  weathe",  1  can- 
not determine.  Their  elevation  above  the  present  level  of 
.  he  sea  could  not  have  been  less  than  400  feet." 

Perron  says,  "  On  breaking  the  branches  where  the  in 
A  a2 


282      GEOLOGY  OF  THE  TABLE-LAND. 

crustation  is  recent,  we  observe  the  woody  texture  contained 
in  a  solid  case,  and  without  any  remarkable  alteration  ;  but 
in  proportion  as  the  calcareous  envelope  increases,  the 
wood  becomes  disorganized,  and  changes  ijisensibly  into  a 
dry  and  black  powder."  From  this  state  he  supposes  the 
centre  gradually  to  increase  in  solidity  till  the  whole  mass 
becomes  a  mere  sandstone,  and  nothing  but  an  arborescent 
form  indicates  the  ancient  state  of  vegetation. 

The  incrustations  near  Simon's  Town  are  of  a  similar  na- 
ture to  those  found  in  New-Holland,  because,  says  Dr. 
Abel,  the  descriptions  of  authors  correspond  with  the  ap- 
pearances I  have  witnessed,  and  because  I  have  compared 
a  specimen  brought  from  Bald  Head  in  New-Holland,  by  Mr. 
Brown,  with  those  I  obtained  at  the  Cape,  and  can  trace 
no  essential  difference,  either  in  the  external  characters  or 
chemical  composition.  It  follows  from  this  statement,  that 
Flinders  and  Vancouver  have  confounded  vegetable  in- 
crustations with  true  corals ;  and  hence  the  reasoning  on 
their  supposed  submarine  origin,  and  modern  rising  of  the 
Bald  Head,  &c.  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  is  incorrect. 

Geology  of  the  North  and  South,  and  East  and  West 
Ranges  of  Mountains. — The  ranges  of  mountains  which 
run  northward  from  the  Cape  Peninsula  to  Orange  or  Ga- 
riep  River,  in  the  points  where  examined,  exhibited  granite 
and  slate,  with  vast  deposites  of  sandstone  or  quartz  rock 
with  numerous  table-shaped  summits, — thus  showing  a 
similarity  of  composition  in  these  mountains  to  those  of  the 
Cape  Peninsula. 

The  three  great  ranges  of  mountains  that  run  from  east 
to  west,  according  to  the  reports  of  travellers,  are  of  the 
same  general  nature,  and  eminently  characterized  by  the 
vast  abundance  of  sandstone  reposing  in  horizental  strata 
upon  the  granite  and  slate,  forming  the  middle,  and  very 
often  the  higher  parts  of  the  chains. 

Geology  of  the  Table-land. — From  the  third  range  on- 
wards to  lat.  30^  S.,  the  prevailing  rock  in  the  plains  and 
hills  is  sandstone.  At  Dwaal  River,  the  frontier  of  the 
colony,  there  are  rocks  of  augite-greenstone  and  basalt, 
probably  in  veins  traversing  the  sandstone.  Rocks  of  the 
same  description,  disposed  in  beautiful  globular  concretions 
(not  boulders,  as  stated  by  Burchell),  occur  near  to  Kaabes 
Kraal,  29°  S.  lat.,  probably  in  veins  traversing  the  horizon- 
tal sandstone  of  that  district.    The  Karreebergen,  or  Dry 


THE  SIBILO  OF  THE  AFRICANS.  283 

Mountains,  beyond  the  limits  of  the  colony,  form  a  rango 
from  five  to  ten  miles  broad,  and  range  through  the  coun- 
try to  an  unknown  distance,  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  These 
mountains  are  principally  composed  of  sandstone,  in  hori- 
zontal strata,  and  every  where  exhibit  beautiful  table- 
shaped  summits.  According  to  Burchell,  "  The  sandstone 
rock  continues  onward  to  fat.  30°  S.,  to  near  Modde  or 
Mud  Gap,  where  true  quartz  strata  and  vesicular  trap-rocks 
make  their  appearance.  In  lat.  29°  15'  32  "  S.,  mountains, 
called  the  Asbestos  Mountains,  of  clay-slate,  disposed  in 
horizontal  strata,  occur ;  there  layers  of  asbestos  occur  in 
the  slate.  This  asbestos  is  blue  and  yellow,  and  the  fibres 
sometimes  nearly  three  inches  in  length."  In  the  same 
mountain,  according  to  Burchell,  green  opal  and  pitchstone 
also  occur.  A  range  of  black  craggy  mountains  extends 
from  the  Kloof,  in  the  Asbestos  Mountains  ;  the  rocks  are 
very  probably  trap.  Further  to  the  north,  at  Klaarwater, 
are  vast  beds  of  horizontally  stratified  limestone,  without 
organic  remains. 

Account  of  the  Sibilo  of  the  Africans. — ^At  Sensavan,  or 
Blenk-Klip,  nearly  in  S.  lat.  28°,  there  is  a  ridge  of  quartz 
rock  impregnated  with  micaceous  iron  ore,  which,  in  many 
places,  is  collected  into  nests  of  considerable  magnitude. 
This  ore  of  iron  is  known  throughout  Southern  Africa  by 
the  name  Sibilo.  Hither  all  the  surrounding  nations  re- 
pair for  a  supply  of  that  ornamental  and,  in  their  eyes, 
valuable  substance.  It  forms,  in  some  degree,  an  article  of 
barter  with  more  distant  tribes,  and  even  among  them- 
selves ;  so  that  the  use  of  it  extends  over  at  least  5°  of  lati- 
tude. It  is  of  a  reddish  colour,  soft  and  greasy  to  the  feel, 
— its  particles  adhering  to  the  skin,  and  staining  it  of  a 
deep  red  colour.  The  skin,  says  Burchell,  is  not  easily 
freed  from  these  glossy  particles,  even  by  repeated  washing. 
The  mode  of  preparing  and  using  it  is,  simply  grinding  it 
with  grease,  and  smearing  it  generally  over  the  body,  but 
chiefly  on  the  head  ;  and  the  hair  is  often  so  much  clotted 
and  loaded  with  an  accumulation  of  it,  that  the  clots  look 
like  lumps  of  the  ore. 

From  the  north  of  Sensavan  to  Lattakoo,  the  rocks  are 
limestone  without  petrifactions,  granite,  and  slate.  In  con- 
clusion, it  may  be  remarked,  that  as  far  as  is  known  at  pre- 
sent, the  whole  of  the  table-land  of  Southern  Africa,  to  the 


284         SOUTH  AFRICAN  LAKES. 

north  of  the  Orange  or  Gariep  River,  is  composed  of  hori- 
'zontal  limestone  without  petrifactions,  clay-slate,  sandstone 
or  quartz  rock,  granite,  greenstone,  serpentine,  and  pot- 
Btone.  The  most  remarkable  geological  feature  of  the 
country  is  the  horizontality  of  the  strata, — thus  intimating 
their  undisturbed  state. 

Geological  Survey  of  the  Karroo  Ground  recommended.--' 
To  geological  travellers  we  recommend  a  particular  exa- 
mination of  the  compact  clay-ground  called  Karroo,  which, 
if  a  deposite  from  ancient  lakes,  may  prove  to  be  a  tertiary 
formation.  The  surface  only  of  the  Karroo  ground  has 
been  described  ;  for,  as  far  as  our  information  goes,  no  ac- 
counts have  been  published  of  its  internal  structure  and 
arrangement.  It  is  by  the  study  of  the  structure  and 
arrangement  of  its  layers,  and  the  careful  examination  of 
the  minerals,  rocks,  organic  remains  (if  any)  it  contains, 
and  its  chemical  composition,  that  we  can  acquire  a  dis- 
tinct conception  of  its  true  nature. 

RIVERS. 

The  rivers  of  Africa,  as  far  as  connected  with  those  re- 
gions of  this  continent  described  in  the  present  volume, 
have  been  already  particularly  considered.  As  much,  how- 
ever, still  remains  to  be  known  in  regard  to  them,  we  may 
add,  that  the  attention  of  travellers,  in  investigating  their 
natural  history,  should,  besides  their  geographical  distri- 
bution, be  directed  towards  the  various  circumstances 
connected  with  their  fall,  velocity,  quantity  of  water  they 
contain,  their  eddies,  freshes,  and  bore,  if  any  such  occur ; 
also,  the  nature  of  their  beds,  inundations,  occultations, 
temperature  at  the  surface,  or  at  different  depths  ;  their 
cascades  and  rapids ;  their  water,  as  to  colour,  trans- 
parency, and  chemical  composition  ;  and  they  should  not 
omit  descriptions  of  the  river  scenery  considered  by  itself, 
and  also  in  reference  to  the  surrounding  country ;  and,  lastly, 
the  climate,  and  effects  of  the  climate,  and  of  the  scenery 
of  the  rivers,  on  man,  ought  also  to  form  objects  of  inquiry. 

SOUTH    AFRICAN    LAKES. 

In  Southern  Africa,  lakes  are  but  seldom  met  with,  and 
among  these,  some  few  are  salt.  The  most  considerable 
•alt  lake  hitherto  met  with  by  travellers,  is  that  near  to 


SOUTH  AFRICAN  SPRINGS.  280 

A.!goa  Bay.  It  is  resorted  to  by  the  inhabitants  from  very 
distant  parts  of  the  colony,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  salt 
for  their  own  consumption  or  for  sale.  It  is  situated  in 
a  plain  considerably  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is 
of  an  oval  form,  and  about  three  miles  in  circumference. 
It  is  named  Zoutpan  or  SaUpajh,  an  appropriate  name,  as 
the  sun  and  wind  do  here  what  is  effected  in  salt-works  by 
artificial  heat.  When  Mr.  Barrow  examined  it,  the  greatest 
part  of  its  bottom  was  covered  with  one  continued  body  of 
salt,  like  a  sheet  of  ice,  the  crystals  of  which  were  so 
united  that  they  formed  a  solid  mass  as  hard  as  rock.  The 
dry  south-easterly  winds  of  summer,  agitating  the  water  of 
the  lake,  produce  on  the  margin  a  fine,  light,  powdery  salt, 
like  flakes  of  snow.  This  is  equally  beautiful  as  the  re- 
fined salt  of  England.  Another  salt  lake,  according  to 
Lichtenstein,  occurs  on  the  western  coast  of  the  colony  near 
to  Elephant  River,  from  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  dis- 
trict supply  themselves  with  this  necessary  of  life.  A  salt 
lake  of  considerable  extent  is  said  to  occur  in  about  S.  lat. 
30°,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  river-district  of  the  Orange 
River.  The  most  northern,  of  which  I  have  been  able  to 
gain  any  intelligence,  says  Burchell,  is  one  about  the  27"^ 
S.  lat.,  eastward  of  Lattakoo.  The  Karroo  day.,  as  already 
mentioned,  is  probably  a  deposite  from  lake  water,  at  a  time 
when  the  tracts  where  it  occurs  were  covered  with  water. 

Particulars  to  be  attended  to  in  investigating  the  Natural 
History  of  Lakes. — Travellers,  in  examining  and  describing 
lakes,  ought  to  ascertain  their  relations  to  rivers  and  springs, 
their  magnitude,  depth,  temperature  at  the  surface  and  at 
various  depths,  their  colours,  occultations,  and  agitations. 
The  water  of  the  lake  ought  to  be  submitted  to  chemical 
analysis,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  it  is  fresh  water, 
salt  water,  alkaline  water,  calcareous  water,  <fec.  Their 
mode  of  formation  ought  also  to  be  considered,  and  the 
peculiar  characters  of  lake  scenery  and  climate  should  be 
attended  to. 

SOUTH  AFRICAN  SPRINGS. 

The  springs  of  Southern  Africa  may  be  divided  into  con> 
mon,  hot,  and  mineral. 

Common  Springs. — Although  much  rain  falls  in  the 
Cape  district,  it  afTords  but  comparatively  few  springs. 


286  SOUTH  AFRICAN  SPRINGS. 

This  paucity  of  springs  may  be  explained,  as  Mr.  Barrow 
remarks,  by  attending  to  the  nature  of  the  rocks,  and  their 
mode  of  arrangement.  Where  two  of  the  formations  of 
the  district  occur  together,  as  sandstone  and  granite  for 
example,  and  the  sandstone  lies  upon  the  granite,  whose 
upper  surface  vs  above  the  level  of  the  neigWaouring  coun- 
try, springs  will  occur  abundantly  around  the  line  of  junc- 
tion of  the  two  formations.  In  this  case  the  water  perco- 
lates through  the  sandstone,  which  is  a  porous  rock ;  but 
its  farther  progress  downwards  is  arrested  by  the  granite, 
which  is  a  dense  and  compact  rock,  and  therefore,  when  it 
reaches  the  surface  of  the  granite,  it  accumulates  there,  and 
either  remains  stationary,  or  flows  along  its  surface,  until 
it  finds  an  opening  at  the  surface,  where  it  issues  forth  in 
the  form  of  springs.  On  the  contrary,  if  the  sandstone  de- 
posite  rests  upon  granite,  whose  upper  surface  is  below  the 
level  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  percolating  water,  on 
reaching  the  granite,  will  accumulate  there,  and  flow  off  by 
rents  into  the  lower  and  distant  parts  of  the  country,  but 
few  springs  will  be  observed  issuing  from  the  sandstone. 

Hot  Springs. — The  only  hot  springs  particularly  de- 
scribed by  travellers  are  those  of  Brand  Valley  and  Zwarte- 
berg. 

Brand  Valley. — The  hot  spring  here  is  larger  than  that 
at  Zwarteberg.  It  forms  a  shallow  pond  of  about  fifty  feet 
across,  of  the  most  transparent  water,  in  the  middle  of  which 
several  strong  springs  bubble  up  through  a  bottom  of  loose 
white  sand,  and  afterward  flowing  in  a  very  copious  stream, 
become  a  rivulet,  which,  for  at  least  a  mile  and  a  half,  con- 
tinues so  hot,  that  its  course  along  the  valley  may,  at  any 
time  of  the  day,  but  more  particularly  early  in  the  morning, 
be  traced  by  the  steam  which  perpetually  arises  from  it. 
The  pond  is  sheltered  by  a  small  clump  of  white  poplars, 
■which  thrive  perfectly  well,  although  growing  at  the  very 
edge  of  the  water,  and  bedewed  with  the  hot  steam,  which 
ascends  to  their  highest  branches.  No  plant,  it  seems,  can 
grow  in  the  water  itself;  but  the  margins  of  the  bank  are 
thickly  covered  with  sedge,  particularly  cyperus  fascicularis. 
Royena  glabra,  a  species  of  rhus,  and  a  variety  of  plants, 
stand  within  the  influence  of  its  heat.  The  thermometer, 
when  plunged  into  the  pond,  rose  only  to  144°  Fahrenheit, 
but  to  the  hand  it  felt  nearly  scalding  hot ;  so  that  th« 


SOUTH  AFRICAN  SPRIN&S.  287 

hnmersion  could  scarcely  be  endured  for  a  few  seconds.  The 
water  is  pure  and  tasteless,  and  is  used  for  all  domestic  pur- 
poses. Nothing  resembling  a  deposition  is  any  where  ob- 
servable ;  nor  are  its  banks  or  channel  at  all  discoloured. 
The  hill,  from  the  foot  of  which  it  issues,  has  no  remark- 
able appearance  ;  at  least,  there  is  none  of  that  black  pon- 
derous iron  ore,  or  earth,  noticed  at  the  Zwarteberg  baths. 
At  the  distance  of  about  300  yards  from  the  source,  two 
bath-houses  have  been  built  over  the  stream,  the  heat  of 
which,  even  here,  is  almost  greater  than  can  be  borne  by  a 
person  not  gradually  inured  to  it.  Between  the  spring  and 
the  bath,  where  the  stream  has  run  a  sufficient  distance  in 
the  open  air  to  allow  it  time  to  become  a  few  degrees  cooler, 
the  bottom  of  the  rivulet  is  covered  with  a  beautiful  sea- 
green  conferva,  waving  gracefully  beneath  the  water,  like 
long  tresses  of  hair.  Specimens  of  rocks  from  this  district, 
sent  me  by  Dr.  Smith,  show  that  the  waters  of  this  spring . 
issue  from  quartz  rock,  containing  grains  of  white  felspat 
in  the  state  of  porcelain  earth. 

Warm  Bath  at  Zwarteberg. — This  is  a  short  mountainous 
ridge,  running  east  and  west,  and  of  secondary  height. 
From  the  lower  part  of  its  southern  front  projects  a  small 
flat  hill,  out  of  the  upper  part  of  which  issue,  in  several 
places,  hot  springs,  the  waters  of  which  raise  the  thermo- 
meter to  118°  of  Fahrenheit.  The  water  deposites,  in  the 
channels  along  which  it  runs,  an  orange-coloured  ochre  of 
iron  ;  but,  after  a  course  of  200  or  300  yards,  ceases  to  dis- 
colour the  ground.  It  contains  iron  and  sulphur,  and 
hence  has  a  slightly  chalybeate  taste.  Within  three  yards 
of  these  hot  springs  there  rises  another,  the  water  of  Avhich 
is  pure  and  tasteless,  but  is  not  warmer  than  that  of  the 
common  springs  of  the  country.  Probably  the  springs 
here,  as  at  Brand  Valley,  issue  from  quartz  rock.  In  the 
vicinity  of  the  springs,  as  I  observe  by  inspection  of  speci- 
mens from  Dr.  Smith,  bog-iron  ore  occurs. 

Warm  springs  also  occur  in  the  valley  of  the  Western 
Elephant  River  ;  others  near  the  Eastern  Elephant  River, 
in  Kamnasi  Land ;  and  a  third  behind  Kokman's  (Kog- 
man's)  Kloof;  but  all  are  of  lower  temperature  than  those 
of  the  Zwarteberg  and  Brand  Valley.  There  is  also  a 
warm  spring  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Gariep,  in  Great 
Namaqualand. 


288  SOUTH  AFRICAN  SPRINGS. 

Springs  of  mineral  waters,  of  the  common  temperature, 
have  been  noticed  in  various  places ;  one  near  Graaf 
Reynet,  and  another  not  far  from  Uitenhage,  and  one  also 
in  the  Tarka ;  but  their  chemical  composition  has  not  been 
accurately  ascertained. 

Remarks  on  the  Importance  of  a  Knowledge  of  the  Natural 
History  and  Chemical  Composition  of  Springs.  —The  springs 
of  the  African  continent  have  hitherto  been  almost  entirely 
neglected  by  travellers  and  naturalists,  either  through  in- 
difference or  ignorance.  Now,  however,  that  scientific  men 
have  settled  in  different  parts  of  that  quarter  of  the  globe, 
particularly  in  Southern  Africa,  accurate  details  may  be  ex- 
pected in  regard  to  their  various  kinds,  whether  temporary, 
perennial,  intermittent,  periodical,  spouting,  sublacustrine, 
subfluvian,  or  submarine  ;  their  magnitude  and  colour  ;  the 
temperature  of  common  springs,  at  different  elevations 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  during  different  seasons  of 
the  year ;  and  the  range  of  temperature  of  warm  and  hot 
springs.  But  in  order  to  complete  the  history  of  the  springs 
of  the  country,  we  must,  besides,  describe  not  only  the 
rock  or  rocks  from  which  they  flow,  but  also  ascertain  the 
various  relations  of  these  rocks  to  those  of  the  neighbouring 
mineral  formations.  Chemical  investigations  will  afford 
the  necessary  details  as  to  the  different  mineral  matters  that 
enter  into  their  composition.  The  remarkable  animal  sub- 
stance  met  with  in  some  European  springs,  and  probably 
of  more  frequent  occurrence  than  is  believed,  and  which 
may  be  derived  from  the  strata  containing  animal  fossil  re- 
mains, through  which  the  spring  waters  percolate,  ought 
to  be  looked  for,  because  its  presence  will  afford  to  the 
chemist  an  opportunity  o  f  examining  a  substance  ot  a  very 
curious  nature  ;  to  the  geologist,  data  for  interesting  spe- 
culation ;  and  to  the  physician,  the  means  of  judging  of  the 
mode  of  action  of  those  waters  containing  it,  in  scrofula 
and  other  diseases  in  which  its  use  is  said  to  be  so  bene- 
ficial. It  may  happen  here,  as  in  other  countries,  that  the 
springs  deposite  around  their  sources,  and  at  greater  or 
less  distances  from  them,  much  of  the  dissolved  and  sus- 
pended foreign  matter  they  contained,  and  thus  give  rise  to 
mineral  formations,  the  external  aspect  and  mode  of  ar- 
rangement of  which  will  illustrate  geological  phenomena 
observed  among  the  older  rock- formations  of  which  the  crust 


CONCLUSION.  28d 

•f  the  earth  is  composed.  Lastly,  when  it  is  known  that 
hot  springs  are  intimately  connected  with  subterranean 
igneous  agency, — that  power  which  formerly  acted  so  ex- 
tensively in  fonnin'g  and  modifying  the  rocks  of  which  the 
crust  of  the  earth  is  composed,  and  which  even  now  con- 
tinues, although  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  to  occasion  con- 
siderable changes  on  the  surface  of  the  earth, — their  natural 
and  chemical  history  becomes  very  interesting  from  the 
light  they  shed  over  many  important  geological  phenomena. 
Geology  of  Caffraria^  Natal,  <^c. — The  geology  of  the 
countries  of  Calfraria  and  Natal  is  entirely  unknown.  In 
Sofala  there  are  said  to  be  mines  of  silver ;  and  gold  is  col- 
lected from  the  sands  and  gravels  of  some  districts.  The 
kingdom  of  Monomotapa,  as  it  is  called,  at  the  distance 
inland  of  about  forty  days'  journey  from  Sofala,  affords  gold, 
topazes,  and  rubies.  The  geology  of  the  country  from  De- 
lagoa  Bay,  in  lat.  26°  S.,  to  Cape  Delgado,  in  lat.  10°  S., 
is  unknown ;  a  small  quantity  of  gold-dust  is  collected  in 
it.  From  Cape  Delgado  to  the  equator,  the  country  which 
is  under  the  dominion  of  the  imam  of  Mascat,  is  unknown 
in  a  geological  point  of  view.  The  country  from  the 
equator  to  the  Straits  of  Babelmandeb  has  never  been 
visited  by  any  geologist. 

CONCLUSION. 

From  the  preceding  details  it  results, 

1.  That  of  all  the  quarters  of  the  globe,  Africa  has  the 
most  truly  tropical  climate. 

2.  That  notwithstanding  its  nearly  insular  form,  its  ex- 
tent of  coast  is  much  less  in  proportion  to  its  area  than  in 
the  other  quarters  of  the  globe. 

3.  That  the  peculiar  condition  of  the  hmnan  species,  the 
distribution  and  even  the  aspect  of  the  lower  animals  and 
plants,  and  many  of  the  characters  of  the  African  climate, 
are  connected  with  its  comparatively  limited  extent  of  sea- 
coast,  its  extensive  deserts,  and  arid  soil. 

4.  That  from  the  maritime  situation  of  Sierra  Leone  and 
its  colonization  by  Britain,  and  the  connexion  of  the  southern 
parts  of  the  Great  Table-land  with  the  British  settlements 
on  the  southern  coasts  of  Africa,  we  may  conjecture  that  the 
civilization  of  the  negroes  (if  that  interesting  race  be  not 
destined  to  extirpation,  as  has  been  the  fate  of  the  abori- 

Bb 


290  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

gines  of  the  New  World,)  will  be  effected  from  these  two 
quarters,  through  the  energy,  enterprise,  and  perseverance  of 
missionaries,  well  instructed  in  the  various  useful  arts  of  life, 
and  in  the  simple  and  pure  principles  of  Christianity. 

5.  That  its  springs,  lakes,  rivers,  bays,  and  arms  of  the 
sea  are  fewer  m  number,  and  present  more  uniformity  of 
aspect  than  is  generally  the  case  in  other  parts  of  the 
world. 

6.  That  it  is  eminently  characterized  by  its  vast  central 
and  sandy  deserts,  its  great  southern  table-land,  and  the 
vast  expanses  of  Karroo  ground. 

7.  That  of  all  the  rock  formations,  those  of  limestone 
and  sandstone  are  the  most  frequent  and  most  widely  dis- 
tributed :  that  natron,  a  rare  deposite  in  other  countries,  is 
comparatively  abundant  in  Africa ;  that  salt  is  very  widely 
distributed,  though  in  some  districts  it  is  wholly  deficient ; 
but  coal  is  wanting.  And  the  precious  stones,  so  frequent 
in  other  tropical  regions,  are  here  of  rare  occurrence. 

8.  That  the  metals,  although  met  with  in  different  quar- 
ters, are  nowhere  abundant ;  and  that,  of  all  the  different 
metals,  gold  is  the  most  generally  distributed. 

9.  That  no  active  or  extinct  volcanoes  have  hitherto  been 
met  with. 

10.  Lastly,  that  Africa  is  less  frequently  agitated  by 
earthquakes  than  the  other  continents. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Natural  History  of  the  Quadrupeds  of  Africa.* 

A  KNOWLEDGE  of  the  geographical  distribution  of  animalis 
and  of  the  laws  which  regulate  that  distribution,  has  excited 
a  considerable  degree  of  attention  since  the  time  of  Buffon, 
whose  writings  may  fairly  be  regarded  as  the  first  to  create 
an  interest  in  favour  of  this  branch  of  natural  history.     The 

*  I  think  it  proppr  to  apprize  the  reader  that  in  the  three  following 
chapters,  devoted  to  the  Zooiocy  of  Africa,  several  well-knorwn  and  in- 
leresting  species,  such  &u  the  Egyptian  Ichneumon,  the  Fennec  of  Bruce, 


Group  of  African  Animals— In  front,  in  the  centre,  the  Rhinoceros  ;  to 
the  right,  the  Hippopotamus  and  Orang-outang.  In  the  centre  back 
ground,  the  Giraffe  ;— to  the  left,  Antelopes  and  Zebra.— [p.  290.J 


tltJADRUPEDS.  291 

•Hght  observance  of  the  physical  characters  and  other  local 
peculiarities  of  countries,  which  prevailed  prior  to  that 
period,  rendered  the  precise  induction  of  general  vievps  a 
matter  of  extreme  difficulty  ;  and,  as  navigators  and  naval 
adventurers  of  every  class  were  indifferent  to  the  accuracy  of 
science,  and  ignorant  of  the  valuable  results  which  might 
spring  from  a  more  correct  record  of  the  localities  of  species, 
our  knowledge  of  these  localities  did  not  increase  in  the  same 
proportion  as  the  species  themselves.  Even  at  the  present 
day  our  collections  are  frequently  rendered  of  little  avail  for 
the  purposes  of  zoological  geography,  by  the  products  of  one 
country  being  intermingled  with  those  of  another :  thus,  the 
splendidly- feathered  tribes  of  Rio  Janeiro  are  frequently 
combined  with  the  scarcely  less  brilliant  birds  of  New-Hol- 
land and  Van  Diemen's  Land  ;  while  the  student  of  Indian 
entomology  labours  under  a  similar  chance  of  error,  in  find- 
ing the  Asiatic  insects  arranged  by  the  merchant  along  with 
an  additional  supply  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  These 
and  other  sources  of  confusion  have  long  retarded  our  know- 
ledge of  the  geography  of  animals. 

The  habits  and  dispositions  of  animals  result  from  their 
structure,  and  that  structure  is  invariably  adapted  to  the 
local  circumstances  under  which  they  are  naturally  placed. 
It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  the  geographical 
distribution  of  species  can  ever  form  a  proper  basis  for  their 
zoological  classification.  Many  natural  families  and  genera 
are  so  extensively  distributed  as  to  be  almost  equally  cha- 
racteristic of  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  The  wolf  and  the 
reindeer  are  common  both  to  Europe  and  America ;  and  the 
lion  occurs  in  the  forests  of  Asia  as  well  as  among  the  Afri- 
can deserts.  These,  however,  are  exceptions  to  the  general 
rule ;  for  it  will  be  found,  on  examination,  that  every  great 
continent,  or  extensive  tract  of  country,  though  possessed 
of  features  which,  to  a  certain  degree,  assimilate  it  to  those 
of  other  regions,  is  yet  distinguished  by  many  characters 
entirely  peculiar  to  itself,  and  which  constitute  its  zoologi- 
cal aspect.  Thus  the  kangaroo  and  the  omithorynchus  are 
characteristic  of,  because  peculiar  to,  New-Holland ;  the 
lamas  and  vicunhas  are  only  found  in  South  America ;  the 

fke  Sacred  Ibis,  &c,  are  intentionally  omitted,  as  being  characteristic  of 
certain  portions  of  the  African  continent,  the  general  history  of  whicb 
*)es  not  fall  within  the  scope  of  the  present  voliune.— J.  W. 


292  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

ostrich  and  the  camelopard  are  proper  to  Africa ;  the  lemnrs 
to  Madagascar ;  the  pongo,  or  gigantic  orang-outang,  to 
the  great  Asiatic  islands;  and  the  common  toad  to  the 
■western  countries  of  Europe.  So  also,  in  the  order  of  quad- 
Tumanous,  or  four-handed  animals,  such  as  apes  and  mon- 
keys, the  division  called  Platyrrliini,  distinguished  by  the 
breadth  of  the  partition  which  separates  the  nostrils,  occurs 
only  in  South  America ;  while  another  great  division,  named 
Catarrhini,  of  which  the  nostrils  are  contiguous,  is  found 
only  in  the  Old  World.  A  naturalist  would  therefore  find 
no  difficulty  in  determining,  merely  from  a  glance  at  the 
muzzle,  whether  a  species  of  this  order  was  native  to  the 
ancient  continent  or  the  new. 

Wherever  the  observant  traveller  turns  his  steps,  he  finds 
in  every  country  animals  peculiar  to  itself ;  and  many  of 
these,  occupying  the  most  remote  and  insulated  spots,  are 
the  most  inadequately  supplied  with  the  means  of  locomo- 
tion. The  mode  of  their  original  dispersion,  whether  from 
a  single  position,  or  from  multiplied  centres  of  creation,  has 
therefore  been  a  theme  which  has  not  unfrequently  exercised 
the  ingenuity  of  naturalists.  The  subject,  however,  seems 
to  be  one  which  scarcely  falls  within  the  scope  of  human 
intelligence  ;  although  a  most  ample  source  of  interesting 
and  legitimate  speculation  may  be  made  to  flow  from  an  ac- 
curate and  extended  record  of  facts  illustrative  of  their  pre- 
sent distribution,  the  amount  of  genera  and  species,  the  re- 
lation which  that  amount  bears  to  the  animal  productions  of 
other  countries,  and  similar  numerical  details. 

In  the  present  chapter,  we  propose  to  exhibit  a  brief 
sketch  of  the  natural  history  of  the  greater  portion  of  the 
African  continent ;  and,  although  our  limits  will  not  permit 
us  to  draw  an  extended  parallel  between  the  zoology  of  that 
country  and  the  animal  products  of  the  other  quarters  of  the 
globe,  we  shall  yet  have  occasion,  at  an  after-period  of  our 
series,  to  survey  the  characteristic  features  of  all  the  other 
great  divisions  of  the  earth, — and,  in  so  doing,  may  atford 
the  means  of  an  accurate  comparison  between  these  and  the 
subjects  of  our  present  inquiry.  In  the  mean  time,  however, 
we  shall  not  abstain  from  an  occasional  reference  to  the 
analogous  species  of  other  countries,  whenever  we  shall  bo 
thereby  enabled  to  throw  any  additional  light  upon  the  hi» 
tory  of  the  African  tribes. 


QUADRUPEDS.  293 

Most  nearly  allied  to  the  human  race  of  all  the  species  of 
the  brute  creation,  the  black  or  African  orang-outang  (Simm 
troglodytes  of  Linnaeus)  may  be  allowed  to  assume  the  fore- 
most place  in  our  enumeration.  It  is  native  to  no  other 
country  than  Africa,  although  we  are  as  yet  unacquainted 
with  the  extent  of  territory  which  it  occupies  in  that  conti- 
nent. Angola,  the  banks  of  the  river  Congo,  and  all  the 
districts  which  border  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  are  the  localities 
in  which  it  has  as  yet  most  frequently  occurred.  Its  history, 
like  that  of  its  Asiatic  congener,  the  red  orang-outang  (Si' 
mia  satyrus,  Linn.),  is  still  involved  in  considerable  obscu- 
rity Its  habits,  in  the  adult  state,  are  extremely  retired 
and  "wary  ;  and  the  young  alone  have  fallen  into  the  hands 
of  Europeans  in  modern  times.  Great  exaggeration  pre- 
vails in  the  narratives  of  all  the  earlier  travellers  regarding 
the  sagacity  of  this  singular  animal.  Its  external  figure  and 
general  conformation  no  doubt  greatly  resemble  those  of  the 
human  race,  and  hence  its  actions  have  to  us  much  of  the 
semblance  of  human  wisdom.  But  a  remarkable  circum- 
stance in  the  mental  constitution  of  this  tribe  of  animals  dis- 
proves their  fancied  alliance  to  mankind, — the  young  are 
gentle,  obedient,  and  extremely  docile, — but  as  they  increase 
m  years  their  dispositions  undergo  a  striking  change,  and 
their  truly  brutal  nature  is  evinced  by  an  unusual  degree  of 
untractable  ferocity.  In  the  wild  state  they  are  inferior  both 
to  the  dog  and  the  elephant  in  sagacity,  although  their  ana- 
logous structure  never  fails  to  impress  the  beholder  with  a 
belief  that  they  resemble  man  in  mental  character  as  well  as 
in  corporeal  form.  Two  species  of  African  orang-outang 
seem  to  have  been  described  by  the  earlier  writers.  These 
were  probably  the  young  and  old  of  the  same  species  seen 
apart  at  different  times,  for  later  researches  do  not  lead  to 
the  belief  of  there  being  more  than  one. 

"  The  greatest  of  these  two  monsters,"  says  Battell,  "  is 
called  pongo  in  their  language  ;  and  the  less  is  called  engeco. 
This  pongo  is  exactly  proportioned  like  a  man  ;  but  he  is 
more  like  a  giant  in  stature  ;  for  he  is  very  tall,  and  hath  a 
man's  face,  hollow-eyed,  with  long  hair  upon  his  brows. 
His  face  and  ears  are  without  hair,  and  his  hands  also. 
His  body  is  full  of  hair,  but  not  very  thick,  and  it  is  of  a 
dunnish  colour.  He  differeth  not  from  a  man  but  in  his 
legs,  for  they  have  no  calf.  He  goeth  always  upon  his  legs, 
£  b2 


294  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

and  cameth  his  hands  clasped  on  the  nape  of  his  neck  when 
he  goeth  upon  the  ground.  They  sleep  in  the  trees,  and  build 
shelters  from  the  rain.  They  feed  upon  fruit  that  they  find 
in  the  woods,  and  upon  nuts ;  for  they  eat  no  kind  of  flesh. 
They  cannot  speak,  and  appear  to  have  no  more  understand- 
ing than  a  beast.  The  people  of  the  conntry,  when  they 
travel  in  the  woods,  make  fires  where  they  sleep  in  the 
night ;  and  in  the  morning,  when  they  are  gone,  the  pongos 
Will  come  and  sit  about  the  fire  till  it  goeth  out ;  for  they 
have  no  understanding  to  lay  the  wood  together,  or  any 
means  to  light  it.  They  go  many  together,  and  often  kill 
the  negroes  that  travel  in  the  woods.  Many  times  they  fall 
upon  the  elephants  which  come  to  feed  where  they  be,  and 
so  beat  them  with  their  clubbed  fists,  and  with  pieces  of 
wood,  that  they  will  run  roaring  away  from  them.  Those 
pongos  are  seldom  or  never  taken  alive,  because  they  are  so 
strong  that  ten  men  cannot  hold  one  of  them ;  but  yet  they 
take  many  of  their  young  ones  with  poisoned  arrows.  The 
young  pongo  hangeth  on  his  mother's  belly,  with  his  hands 
fast  clasped  about  her ;  so  that,  when  the  country  people  kil! 
any  of  the  females,  they  take  the  one  which  hangeth  fast 
upon  its  mother,  and,  being  thus  domesticated  and  trained 
up  from  their  infant  state,  become  extremely  familiar  and 
tame,  and  are  found  useful  in  many  employments  about  the 
house." 

Purchas  informs  us,  on  the  authority  of  a  personal  con- 
versation with  Battell,  that  a  pongo  on  one  occasion  carried 
off  a  young  negro,  who  lived  for  an  entire  season  in  the  so- 
ciety of  these  anijnals  ;  that,  on  his  return,  the  negro  stated 
they  had  never  injured  hun,  but,  on  the  contrary,  were 
greatly  delighted  with  his  company  ;  and  that  the  females 
especially  showed  a  great  predilection  for  him,  and  not  only 
brought  him  abundance  of  nuts  and  wild  fruits,  but  carefully 
and  courageously  defended  him  from  the  attacks  of  serpenta 
and  beasts  of  prey. 

With  the  exception  of  such  information  as  has  been 
drawn  from  the  oljservance  of  one  or  two  young  individuals 
sent  alive  to  Europe,  our  knowledge  of  this  species  has  not 
increased.  We  have  become  aware  of  the  inaccuracy  and 
exaggeration  of  previous  statements,  but  have  not  our- 
selves succeeded  in  filling  up  the  picture.  It  is  indeed  sin- 
gular, that  when  the  history  of  animals  inhabiting  New- 


QUADRUPEDS.  295 

Holland,  or  the  most  distant  islands  of  the  Indian  Ocean, 
are  annually  receiving  so  much  new  and  correct  illustration, 
the  most  remarkable  species  of  the  brute  creation,  inhabit- 
ing a  comparatively  neighbouring  country,  should  have 
remained  for  about  2000  years  under  the  shade  of  an  almost 
fabulous  name,  and  that  the  "wild  man  of  the  woods" 
should  express  all  we  yet  really  know  of  the  African  orang- 
outang in  the  adult  state.  . 

Africa  produces  many  other  species  of  the  monkey  tribe. 
The  promontory  most  familiar  to  the  Mediterranean  voy- 
ager, called  Apes'  Mountain,  not  far  from  the  opposing  point 
of  Gibraltar,  is  so  called  from  the  occurrence  of  these  ani- 
mals ;  and  the  rock  of  the  last-named  fortress  is  itself  the 
only  strong-hold  which  they  possess  in  Europe.  They  do 
not,  however,  occur  in  desert  countries,  commonly  so  called ; 
that  is,  the  open  sandy  plains  of  Africa  are  altogether  un- 
fitted for  the  dwellings  of  these  pigmy  people.  Apes  of 
all  kinds  are  a  sylvan  race.  Their  structure  being  such  as 
to  render  them  unfit  for  the  exercise  of  rapid  movements, 
either  on  all-fours  or  in  an  upright  position,  the  inclined  and 
densely  intermingled  branches  of  trees  are  their  favourite 
pl«ces  of  resort.  Their  feet  in  climbing  being  equally  use- 
ful with  their  hands,  great  additional  power  and  activity  are 
thus  derived.  Among  the  shady  and  otherwise  unpeopled 
arbours  which  skirt  the  banks  of  the  yet  mysterious  rivers 
of  Africa,  they  dwell  in  single  pairs  or  in  congregated 
troops,  according  to  the  instincts  of  each  particular  kind ; 
and  seated  on  the  tops  of  ancient  trees,  or  swinging  from 
pendant  boughs,  they  play  their  fantastic  tricks,  secure  alike 
from  the  wily  serpent  during  the  day,  and  the  panther 
which  prowls  by  night. 

The  pigmy  of  the  ancients  is  a  small  Ethiopian  species, 
resembling  the  Barbary  ape,  but  smaller  in  size,  not  much 
exceeding  the  dimensions  of  a  cat.  Its  tribes  were  for- 
merly alleged  at  certain  seasons  to  wage  a  bloody  war  with 
cranes. 

The  callithrix,  or  green  monkey  {Simia  Sahaa\  is  not 
unfrequently  exhibited  in  menageries,  where,  however,  its 
beautiful  colour  usually  fades  into  a  dingy  olive.  It  occurs 
in  various  parts  of  Africa,  both  along  the  western  and  eastern 
shores.  The  name  of  callithrix,  which  signifies  beautifu! 
hair,  was  employed  by  Homer  to  denote  the  more  ornamental 


296  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

colouring  of  the  coat  of  various  animals.  It  was  applied 
by  Greek  authors,  some  centuries  posterior  to  the  time  of 
Homer,  to  certain  monkeys,  and  is  now  used  specifically  to 
distinguish  the  species  in  question.  M.  Adanson  informs 
us  that  the  woods  of  Podor,  along  the  river  Niger,  are  filled 
with  green  monkeys.  He  could  discover  them  only  by  the 
branches  which  they  cast  down  from  the  tops  of  the  trees  ; 
for  they  were  otherwise  so  silent,  as  well  as  nimble,  that  he 
could  scarcely  obtain  a  glimpse  of  them  in  their  natural  po- 
sitions. After  he  had  shot  two  or  three,  the  rest  became 
alanned,  and  endeavoured  to  shelter  themselves  behind  the 
trunks  and  larger  branches.  Some  descended  to  the  ground ; 
but  the  greater  number  of  those  that  remained  unwounded, 
sprung  with  great  activity  from  the  top  of  one  tree  to  an- 
other. "  During  this  operation,"  says  the  traveller,  "  I 
continued  to  shoot,  and  in  the  space  of  twenty  fathoms  I 
killed  twenty-three  m  less  than  an  hour,  and  not  one  of 
them  uttered  the  smallest  cry,  though  they  frequently  as- 
sembled in  troops,  grinded  their  teeth,  and  assumed  a 
threatening  aspect,  as  if  they  meant  to  attack  me." 

The  white-nosed  monkey  {Cercopithecus  petaurista  of 
Pesmarets)  inhabits  the  coast  of  Guinea.  When  taken 
young  it  is  easily  tamed,  and  is  then  exceedingly  lively  and 
diverting.  The  adult  animals  in  the  wild  state  are  cunning 
and  fierce,  and  avoid  the  vicinity  of  mankind. 

The  amount  of  species  in  this  order  of  animals  is  so 
great,  that,  even  confined  as  we  are  to  those  of  a  single 
continent,  a  volume  would  scarcely  suffice  for  the  most  su- 
perficial sketch  of  their  history,  were  we  to  include  the 
whole  of  the  African  species.  We  must  therefore  be  very 
brief  in  what  remains  to  be  told  of  one  or  two  additional 
kinds.  Next  to  the  magot  or  Barbary  ape,  one  of  the  best 
known  in  Europe  is  the  mona  or  varied  monkey.  It  is 
native  to  the  northern  parts  of  Africa,  and  appears  to  have 
been  known  to  the  Greeks  under  the  name  of  kebos.  This 
species  is  of  an  affectionate  nature  in  confinement,  and  is 
more  than  usually  susceptible  of  education.  Some  consider 
him  synonymous  with  the  Abyssinian  ape  described  by 
Ludolphe,  which  that  author  saw  in  great  troops  turning 
over  stones,  with  entomological  zeal,  in  search  of  worms 
and  insects. 

It  was  probably  a  species  allied  to  that  last  mentioned  in 


QUADRUPEDS.  297 

Its  habits,  of  which  an  amusing  though  tragical  account  if 
given  by  Le  Vaillant.  In  one  of  his  excursions  he  killed  a 
female  monkey  which  carried  a  young  one  on  her  back. 
The  young  one  continued  to  cling  to  her  dead  parent  till 
they  reached  their  evening  quarters,  and  the  assistance  of 
a  negro  was  even  then  required  to  disengage  it.  No  sooner, 
however,  did  it  feel  itself  alone  than  it  darted  towards  a 
wooden  block,  on  which  hung  the  peruke  of  Le  Vaillant's 
father.  To  this  it  clung  most  pertinaciously  by  its  fore- 
paws  ;  and  such  was  the  strength  of  this  deceptive  instinct, 
that  it  remained  in  the  same  position  for  about  three  weeks, 
all  this  time  evidently  mistaking  the  wig  for  its  mother.  It 
was  fed  from  time  to  time  with  goats'  milk,  and  at  length 
emancipated  itself  voluntarily,  by  quitting  the  fostering  care 
of  the  peruke.  The  confidence  which  it  ere  long  assumed, 
and  the  amusing  familiarity  of  its  manners,  soon  rendered 
it  the  favourite  of  the  family.  The  unsuspecting  naturalist 
had  however  introduced  a  wolf  in  sheep's  clothing  into  his 
dwelling ;  for  one  morning,  on  entering  his  chamber,  the 
door  of  which  he  had  imprudently  left  open,  he  beheld  his 
young  favourite  making  a  hearty  breakfast  on  a  very  noble 
collection  of  insects.  In  the  first  transports  of  his  anger 
he  resolved  to  strangle  the  monkey  in  his  arms  ;  but  his 
rage  immediately  gave  place  to  pity,  when  he  perceived  that 
the  crime  of  its  voracity  had  carried  the  punishment  along 
with  it.  In  eating  the  beetles,  it  had  swallowed  several  of 
the  pins  on  which  they  were  transfixed.  Its  agony  conse 
quently  became  great,  and  all  his  eiforts  were  unable  to 
preserve  its  life. 

Baboons  are  fiilly  more  characteristic  of  Africa,  as  a 
generic  group,  than  any  other  of  the  quadrumanous  order. 
With  the  exception  of  the  dog-faced  baboon  ( Cynocephahis 
hamadryas),  a  native  of  the  environs  of  Mocha,  and  other 
eastern  shores  of  the  Red  Sea,  we  are  not  acquainted  with 
any  species  of  the  genus  which  is  not  of  African  origin. 
They  are,  without  doubt,  notwithstanding  their  approxima- 
tion in  some  respects  to  the  human  form,  the  most  disgust- 
ing of  the  brute  creation.  Perhaps  it  is  this  very  resem- 
blance which  excites  our  dislike.  In  spite  of  their  occa- 
sionally brilliant  colouring,  and  the  length  and  beauty  of 
their  fur,  there  is  an  expression  of  moral  deformity  in  their 
aspect  which  is  exceedingly  revolting,  and  they  seem  pos 


298  NATTTRAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

sessed  of  all  the  most  odious  and  degrading  propensities  of 
the  most  God-forsaken  of  the  human  race.  No  other  spe- 
cies exhibit  so  strong  a  concentration  of  the  animal  propen- 
eities.     They  are  the  most  sensual  of  the  brute  creation. 

The  strength  of  some  baboons  is  enormous.  By  mus- 
cular energy  alone,  and  without  the  assistance  of  their 
huge  tusks,  they  will  tear  the  strongest  dog  to  pieces  in  a 
few  minutes.  During  one  of  Mr.  Burchell's  hunting  par- 
ties, two  of  his  dogs  were  seized  by  baboons  ( Cercopithecics 
ursinus) ;  one  of  them  was  killed  on  the  spot  by  ha\dng  hia 
jugular  artery  bit  through,  and  the  other  was  severely  dis- 
abled, and  a  part  of  his  ribs  laid  bare.  Fortunately,  with 
all  their  fierceness,  their  propensities  are  not  carnivorous, 
otherwise  the  most  dreaded  of  the  feline  race  would  prove 
less  formidable  foes.  In  a  state  of  nature  they  feed  princi- 
pally on  roots  and  fruits,  although  the  eggs  and  young  of 
birds  probably  also  form  a  part  of  their  sustenance. 


As  in  the  present  summary  we  are  guided  rather  by  zoo- 
jogical  than  geographical  principles,  with  a  view  chiefly  to 
avoid  the  repeated  mention  of  the  same  animal,  a  necessity 
from  which  we  could  scarcely  escape  were  we  to  trace  suc- 
cessively the  natural  history  of  each  African  district,  in- 
stead of  that  of  the  species  or  genera  themselves  in  system- 
atic progression, — we  shall  proceed  to  the  next  group  in 
our  scientific  arrangements,  that  of  the  Lemurs. 

This  singular  tribe  of  animals  inhabits  the  great  island 
of  Madagascar,  and  the  not  distant  island  of  Anjouan,  one 
of  the  group  of  the  Comora  archipelago, — countries  usually 
regarded  as  belonging  to  the  African  division  of  our  globe. 
In  common  with  apes  and  monkeys,  they  are  quadrumanous 
animals, — that  is,  possessed  of  the  power  of  prehension 
both  with  their  fore  and  hind  feet.  They  differ,  however, 
among  other  characters,  in  having  a  rather  long  and  pointed 
nail,  instead  of  a  flattened  one,  on  the  first  finger  of  the 
hind  foot. 

The  nng-tailed  lemur  (L.  cattou,  Linn.)  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  genus.  Its  motions  are  characterized  by  a 
great  degree  of  elegant  lightness :  its  manners  are  mild, 
and  its  nature  very  harmless.  Its  size  is  equal  to  that  of  a 
large  cat,  and  its  wool  is  extremely  soft  and  fine.  The  tail 
is  about  twice  the  len  th  of  the  whole  body,  and  is  marked 


QUADRUPEDS.  299 

r;y  numerous  rings  of  alternate  white  and  black.  In  the 
wild  state  it  is  gregarious,  travelling  in  sma'l  troops  of 
thirty  or  forty.  When  taken  young,  it  is  easily  tamed.  It 
deUghts  in  sunshine  ;  and  in  a  state  of  domestication  pre- 
fers the  fireside  to  most  other  places.  Its  general  attitude 
resembles  that  of  a  squirrel ;  and  it  feeds  on  fruits.  In 
captivity  it  becomes  more  omnivorous,  and  shows  no  distaste 
to  animal  food.  The  voice  of  the  ruffed  lemur  is  remark- 
able for  its  extraordinary  strength,  which  strikes  with  fear 
and  astonishment  those  who  hear  it  for  the  first  time.  It 
may  be  likened  to  that  of  the  Beelzebub  or  howling  monkey, 
which  fills  the  woods  of  Guiana  with  its  dreadful  cries. 
The  power  of  voice  in  both  cases  no  doubt  proceeds  from  a 
peculiar  structure  of  the  larynx. 

Allied  to  the  lemurs,  and  till  lately  generically  classed 
with  these  animals,  is  the  indri,  which,  according  to  Son- 
nerat,  the  natives  of  Madagascar  domesticate  and  train  up 
as  we  do  the  dog  to  the  sports  of  the  field.  It  is  a  large 
animal,  measuring  about  three  feet  and  a  half  in  length ; 
its  prevailing  colour  is  blackish,  with  the  visage  and  lower 
part  of  the  abdomen  gray,  and  the  rump  white.  It  is  dis- 
tinguished by  having  no  tail.  Its  voice  resembles  the  cry- 
ing of  an  infant,  and  its  manners,  like  those  of  its  conge- 
ners, are  mild  and  docile. 

The  last  of  the  quadrumanous  tribe  peculiar  to  Africa, 
which  we  shall  take  occasion  to  mention,  are  the  galagos. 
The  Senegal  galago  is  about  the  size  of  a  common  rat. 
They  dwell  on  trees  like  monkeys  and  squirrels,  are  mild 
in  their  manners,  and  feed  on  insects,  which  they  catch 
in  their  fore  paws,  and  devour  with  great  avidity.  The 
great  galago  inhabits  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa,  and  a  spe- 
cies occurs  in  the  island  of  Madagascar. 

We  now  approach  the  more  carnivorous  tribes ;  and, 
passing  over  the  genus  Galeopithecus,  the  distribution  of 
which  is  confined  to  Asia  and  its  islands,  we  enter  upon 
the  Vespcrtilioncs,  or  great  family  of  the  bats,  now  divided 
into  many  genera.  Of  these  the  greater  proportion  belong 
to  South  America  and  the  East  Indies  ;  so  that  our  notice 
of  the  African  species  may  be  short,  without  being  really 
much  curtailed.  Several  species  occur  along  the  western 
shores  ;  but  the  most  remarkable  is  the  great  bat  of  Mada- 
gascar, described  by  Edwards,  and  regarded  by  some  a» 


300  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

synonymous  with  the  vampyre.  A  vampyre  is  in  many 
respects  an  imaginary  monster,  whose  chief  amusement 
consists  in  sucking  the  blood  of  sleeping  persons.  The 
name  is  connected  with  a  superstition  absurd  in  itself, 
though  sufficiently  fearful  to  such  as  believed  in  it,  which 
prevailed  in  Poland  and  Hungary  about  the  year  1732. 
According  to  this  wild  belief,  certain  individuals  were  sup- 
posed to  rise  from  the  grave  and  suck  their  friends  and  re- 
lations to  death.  Lord  Byron  has  alluded  to  the  fantasy 
in  the  following  well-known  lines  : — 

*'  But  first,  on  earth  as  vampyre  sent, 
Thy  corse  shall  from  its  tomb  be  rent: 
Then  ghastly  haunt  thy  native  place, 
And  surk  the  blood  of  all  thy  race ; 
There  from  thy  daughter,  sister,  vnfe, 
At  midnight  drain  the  stream  of  life ; 
Yet  loathe  the  banquet  which  perforce 
Must  feed  thy  livid  living  corse  : 
Thy  victims  ere  they  yet  expire 
Shall  know  the  demon  for  their  sire, 
As  cursing  thee,  thou  cursing  them, 
Thy  flowers  are  withered  on  the  stem. 
But  one  that  for  thy  crime  must  fall, 
The  youngest,  most  beloved  of  all, 
Shall  bless  thee  with  a  father's  name — 
That  word  shall  wrap  thy  heart  in  flame  !— 
Yet  must  thou  end  thy  task,  and  mark 
Her  cheek's  last  tinge,  her  eye's  last  spark, 
And  the  last  glassy  ^glance  must  view 
Which  freezes  o'er  its  lifeless  blue; 
Then  with  unhallowed  hand  shalt  tear 
The  tresses  of  her  yellow  hair, 
Of  which  in  life  a  lock  when  shorn, 
Affection's  fondest  pledge,  was  worn ; 
But  now  is  borne  away  by  thee, 
Memorial  of  thine  agony  ! 
Wet  with  thine  own  best  blood  shall  drip 
Thy  gnashing  tooth  and  haggard  lip; 
Then  stalking  to  thy  sullen  grave, 
Go — and  with  Gouls  and  Afrits  rave ; 
Till  these  in  horror  shrink  away 
From  spectre  more  accursed  than  they !" 

Some  vague  allegations  of  a  somewhat  similar  nature 
(excepting  the  resurrectionary  faculty)  having  been  ad- 
duced against  certain  of  the  bat  tribe,  Linnaeus  named  one 
of  them  Vesqiertilio  vampyrus.  The  general  colour  of  the 
body  is  deep  reddish  brown,  brighter  on  the  neck  and 
shoulders.     The  teeth  are  large  and  sharp  ;    the  wings 


QUADRUPEDS.  301 

black,  and  measuring  several  feet  in  extent,  and  the  tail  is 
wanting.  This  apparently  fonnidable  animal  was  supposed 
to  perform  its  deadly  operations  by  inserting  its  sharp- 
pointed  tongue  into  the  vein  of  a  sleeping  person,  and  in  so 
delicate  and  peculiar  a  manner  as  to  occasion  no  pain. 
The  sleep  of  the  victim  was  not  even  disturbed,  and  the  bat, 
by  the  fanning  motion  of  its  wings,  produced  a  delicious 
coolness  around,  which  rendered  repose  the  deeper,  till  the 
Buiierer  awoke  in  eternity. 

Whatever  may  be  the  case  as  regards  the  propensities 
of  some  of  the  South  American  species,  of  whose  blood- 
sucking disposition  Humboldt  does  not  seem  to  doubt,  it 
appears  to  be  the  opinion  of  naturalists  that  the  vampyre- 
bat  of  Linnaeus  is  a  frugivorous  animal,  of  perfectly  inno- 
cuous habits.  According  to  Edwards,  it  is  a  native  of 
Madagascar. 


Among  fhe  smaller  insectivorous  quadrupeds,  several 
kinds  of  shrew  mice  {Sorex)  inhabit  different  quarters  of 
Africa.  The  Cape  shrew  {S.  Capensis)  dwells  in  caverns, 
and  occurs  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  chrysoclore,  or  Cape  mole,  is  remarkable  for  the 
brilliant  metallic  colours  which  adorn  its  fur.  Its  size  is 
rather  less  than  that  of  the  common  mole  of  Europe,  and 
there  is  a  resemblance  to  that  species  in  its  general  form. 
The  fore  feet  have  only  three  claws,  of  which  the  exterior 
is  the  largest :  the  hind  feet  are  furnished  with  five  weaker 
claws.  Its  true  country  is  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  though 
naturalists  have  been  led  into  error  regarding  its  locality  by 
a  false  indication  in  the  Thesaurus  of  Seba,  by  whom  Siberia 
is  assigned  as  its  native  region. 

The  tcnrec  {Sctigcr  of  Cuvier),  an  animal  formerly 
classed  with  the  hedgehogs,  inhabits  the  island  of  Mada- 
gascar, and  may  be  mentioned  as  the  only  known  instance 
of  a  hibernating  species  indigenous  to  a  warm  climate.  It 
burrows  in  the  ground,  and  remains  torpid  for  about  three 
months  in  the  year.  It  usually  lies  concealed  during  the 
day,  and  ventures  abroad  after  sunset  in  search  of  fruits 
and  herbs.  Its  body  is  generally  very  fat,  and  is  eaten  by 
the  natives  of  Madagascar.  There  are  several  species  of 
the  genus,  all  confined  to  that  island,  where,  from  their 
grunting  voices,  they  are  called  ground-hogs.  One  of  these 
Cc 


803  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

iS.  ecaudatus)  is  ifefended  by  spinous  projections,  and  is 
K.nown  to  Europeans  under  the  name  of  the  pig-porcupine. 

The  ratcl,  or  honey-eater  {Mellivora  CapeJisis),  is  pecu- 
liar to  the  southern  extremity  of  this  continent.  The  ge" 
neral  colour  of  the  upper  surface  of  the  ^-ody  is  gray — of  the 
under,  black, — an  unusual  contrast,  as  the  inferior  parts  of 
the  fur  of  most  animals  are  paler  than  those  of  the  dorsal 
region.  Its  fore  claws  are  very  long.  It  lives  on  honey, 
and  digs  up  the  nests  of  wild  bees  from  the  deserted  bur- 
rows of  different  animals.  It  is  said  to  watch  the  flight  and 
motions  of  a  species  of  cuckoo  (the  Cuculus  indicator)  which 
preys  on  bees.  The  Hottentots  indeed  follow  the  same 
guide,  and  are  also  alleged  to  discover  wild  honey  lodged 
in  trees,  by  observing  the  bark  gnawed  around  the  base  by 
the  spiteful  ratel,  which  cannot  climb. 

We  are  not  acquainted  with  any  animal  of  the  otter  kind, 
strictly  so  called,  inhabiting  Africa ;  although  Europe, 
Asia,  and  America  are  well  supplied  with  several  sorts. 
The  nearest  approach,  among  the  African  forms  of  animal 
life,  is  presented  by  the  Aonyx  Delalandi,  remarkable  for  its 
feet  being  either  without  nails,  or  for  the  existence  of  these 
appendages  in  a  merely  rudimentary  state  on  one  or  two 
toes  of  the  hind  feet.  It  is  named  Lvtra  inunguis  by  some 
naturalists,  on  account  of  that  peculiarity.  This  animal 
measures  about  three  feet  in  length,  exclusive  of  the  tail, 
which  extends  about  ten  inches  ;  the  fur  is  soft  and  thick, 
of  a  chestnut-brown  colour,  paler  on  the  flanks,  with  a  mix 
ture  of  gray  about  the  head.  It  preys  on  fish  and  Crustacea, 
and  inhabits  the  salt  pools  along  the  borders  of  the  sea  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Cape. 

Canine  animals  are  very  generally  distributed  over  the 
surface  of  our  globe.  Under  that  appellation  naturalists 
include  not  only  domestic  dogs,  and  all  their  interminable 
varieties,  but  wolves,  foxes,  and  jackals.  Wolves  are  cha- 
racteristic of  the  temperate  and  northern  parts  of  Europe 
and  America.  Foxes  have  a  somewhat  similar  distribution, 
but  are  more  extended  in  a  southern  direction;  while 
jackals  abound  in  most  of  the  warmer  regions  of  the  Old 
World,  but,  unlike  the  other  two,  are  unknown  in  America, 
There  are  three  species  of  jackall.  The  Asiatic  species 
(Canis  aureus)  characteristic  of,  but  not  peculiar  to  the 
continent  of  Asia,  is  the  most  widely  spread.     It  occurs 


QUADRUPEDS.  303 

over  a  great  extent  of  country  from  India  to  Palestine,  and 
from  Egypt  and  Barbary  along  the  shores  and  through  the 
central  deserts  of  Africa  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  This 
18  the  species  commonly  called  the  lion's  provider.  It 
hunts  in  packs  ;  and  the  king  of  beasts,  when  roused  from 
his  slumbers  by  the  yells  of  these  creatures  in  pursuit  of 
prey,  probably  follows  the  hue  and  cry,  and  ere  long  comes 
in  for  his  share  of  slaughtered  deer  or  antelope.  Tho 
Cape  jackall,  commonly  so  called  {Canis  mesomelanus),  re- 
sembles a  fox,  and  is  characterized  by  a  triangular  mark  of 
blackish  gray  upon  the  back,  broader  at  the  shoulders,  and 
finishing  in  a  point  at  the  origin  of  the  tail.  It  inhabits  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Another  species  ( C.  anthus)  is  found 
in  Senegal. 

Intermediate  between  the  dogs  and  hyenas  may  be  placed 
a  curious  African  animal,  long  known  to  the  Cape  colonists 
by  the  name  of  wild  dog.  "  In  the  morning,"  says  Mr. 
Burchell,  "  Philip  returned  with  the  oxen ;  but  reported  that, 
in  consequence  of  Abram  Abram's  neglecting  on  the  night 
before  to  secure  them  as  usual  in  the  cattle-pound,  the  wilde 
konden  (wild  dogs)  had  bitten  off  the  tails  of  three.  One 
had  only  lost  the  brush,  but  the  others  were  deprived  of  the 
whole."  This  species  hunts  in  regular  packs,  both  during 
the  night  and  day ;  and  it  is  so  rapid  in  its  movements  that 
none  but  the  fleetest  animals  can  ensure  their  safety. 
Sheep  fall  an  easy  sacrifice,  though  the  larger  cattle  are  sel- 
dom attacked,  except  stealthily  from  behind  for  the  sake  of 
snapping  off  their  tails.  The  want  of  a  tail,  in  a  warm 
country  swarming  with  flies,  is  a  source  of  the  most  serious 
annoyance  to  any  quadruped  ;  and  the  visits  of  this  hyena- 
dog  are  therefore  much  dreaded  and  suitably  guarded 
against.  The  animal  in  question  is  of  a  more  slender  form 
than  either  the  striped  or  the  spotted  hyena.  Its  general 
colour  is  a  sandy  bay  or  ochrey  yellow,  shaded  with  darker 
hairs ;  and  the  whole  body  is  blotched  and  brindled  vdth 
black,  with  here  and  there  a  spot  of  wliite.  Mr.  Burchell's 
specimen,  wliich  he  kept  for  thirteen  months  chained  up  in 
a  stable-yard,  was  extremely  ferocious  in  its  nature.  It 
became  at  length  in  some  degree  attached  to  a  common  dog, 
Ivith  which  it  used  to  gambol ;  but  even  the  keeper  by 
li^hom  it  was  fed  never  ventured  to  touch  it  with  his  hand. 

Africa  is  the  country  of  hyenas.     The  spotted  specie*" 


304  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

(/f.  Capensis,  Desm.,  Canis  crocuta,  Linn.)  is  peculiar  to  that 
continent,  and  abounds  in  its  southern  extremity.  The 
striped  species  (H.  vulgaris,  Desm.,  C.  hycena,  Linn.)  is 
more  characteristic  of  the  northern  districts.  It  is  frequent 
in  Egypt,  Abyssinia,  and  Nubia,  and  extends  into  Syria 
and  Persia.  It  is  a  «Usgusting  and  troublesome  animal 
wherever  it  occurs.  It  haunts  the  suburbs,  and  even  pene- 
trates into  the  streets  of  some  eastern  cities  after  sunset, 
preying  on  offal  and  stealing  the  remains  of  dead  carcasses, 
which  it  prefers  to  living  prey.  One  of  them  robbed  Bruce 
the  traveller  of  some  pounds  of  tallow  candles,  by  entering 
his  tent  under  cloud  of  night. 

The  animals  called  civets  are  found  both  in  Asia  and 
Africa. 


We  now  enter  upon  the  consideration  of  the  fehne  tribes, 
the  most  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  of  the  brute  creation. 
Though  the  tiger  is  unknown  to  Africa,  the  lion,  the  king 
of  beasts,  here  reigns  with  undisputed  sway,  and  is  not  only 
more  numerous,  but  also  more  magnificent  in  his  propor- 
tions, than  in  any  other  country.  Celebrated  from  the  most 
remote  antiquity  for  his  courage  and  magnanimity,  tliis 
truly  majestic  creature  has  long  been  held  as  symbolical  of 
boldness ;  and  his  countenance  and  general  bearing  cer- 
tainly imbody  our  liveliest  conceptions  of  warlike  grandeur, 
combined  with  a  certain  dignity  of  aspect  not  unbefitting 
his  assumption  of  regal  sway.  The  painter,  the  poet,  the 
sculptor,  and  the  rhetorician  have  alike  tried  in  vain  to 
depict  the  terrors  of  this  grisly  king. 

The  southern  parts  of  Africa  present  a  variety  of  the 
lion,  of  which  the  mane  is  nearly  black.  The  Barbary  Uons 
are  brown,  with  a  very  thick  mane  covering  the  neck  and 
shoulders  of  the  male.  Those  of  Senegal  are  of  a  more 
yellow  hue,  with  thinner  manes.  It  is  unnecessary  to  enter 
into  any  minute  descriptive  details  of  this  famiharly-known 
animal. 

The  ancients  sculptured  a  lion  without  a  mane,  which 
some  modern  writers  regard  as  an  extinct,  others  as  a  ficti- 
tious species.  It  occurs  on  the  hieroglyphic al  monuments 
of  Upper  Egypt ;  and  a  curious  confirmation  of  its  exist- 
ence has  been  received  from  Nubia,  where,  it  is  alleged,  a 
very  large  and  maneless  lion  has  been  recently  discovered. 


QlTADRUPEDS.  305 

Although  the  life  of  the  lion  is  limited  hy  Buffon  to  about 
twenty  years,  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  usually  attains  to  a 
much  greater  age.  Pompey,  who  died  in  the  year  1760, 
had  been  confined  in  the  Tower  above  seventy  years,  and 
Another  was  known  to  have  died  there  at  the  age  of  sixty- 
three.  Sparrman  and  others  have  impugned  the  character 
of  this  noble  animal,  and  alleged  that  a  greater  degree  of 
timidity  exists  in  his  constitution  than  is  compatible  with 
courage.  It  may,  however,  be  given  as  a  piece  of  safe 
advice  to  the  inexperienced  emigrant,  not  to  place  too  much 
confidence  in  the  cowardice  of  lions. 

The  geographical  boundaries  of  the  lion  appear  to  have 
been  greatly  circumscribed  within  these  last  two  thousand 
years.  Even  where  it  still  exists  in  comparative  abundance, 
it  is  an  animal  of  rare  occurrence  ;  and,  from  many  districts 
where  it  once  abounded,  it  has  now  entirely  disappeared. 
According  to  Herodotus,  they  were  once  sufficiently  common 
both  in  Thrace  and  Macedonia ;  and  they  are  known  to 
have  formerly  abounded  in  Asia,  from  the  shores  of  Syria 
to  the  i^anks  of  the  Ganges  and  the  Oxus.  By  what  means 
the  Romans  contrived  to  assemble  those  vast  troops  which 
they  sometimes  exhibited  at  their  games,  it  would  now  be 
difficult  to  determine ;  but  we  know  that  Sylla  fought  to- 
gether one  hundred  males,  and  Pompey  three  hundred  and 
fifteen.  Those  of  Sylla  were  sent  by  Bocchus,  king  of 
Mauritania  ;  but  at  present  a  brace  of  lions  would  be 
thouglit  a  very  princely  gift  from  any  of  the  Moorish  king- 
doms. Even  in  the  time  of  Probus,  about  the  middle  of 
the  third  century,  one  hundred  male  lions,  and  the  like 
number  of  females,  were  exhibited.  We  may  however 
presume  that  even  prior  to  this  period  they  were  considered 
as  rather  scarce,  as  the  hunting  of  the  lion  was  forbidden 
to  the  vulgar,  lest  the  supply  required  for  the  circus  should 
be  diminished.  This  law  was  abrogated  in  the  time  of  Ho- 
norius  ;  though  their  entire  destruction  in  so  many  districts 
was  probably  not  achieved  till  after  the  introduction  and 
general  use  of  firearms. 

As  the  northern  parts  of  Africa  are  known  to  have  been 
thickly  peopled  during  the  time  in  which  lions  so  greatly 
abounded  there,  we  may  hence  infer  that  the  co-existence 
of  the  larger  carnivorous  animals  along  with  the  human 
race,  is  not,  as  many  philosophers  have  imagined,  altogether 
C  c2 


306  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  iliFRICA. 

incompatible.  They  imagine  themselves  to  have  seen,  in 
the  limited  actual  number  of  lions  and  tigers,  a  guarantee 
of  nature,  as  it  has  been  called,  for  our  preservation,  and 
that  of  animal  life,  throughout  the  world.  But  the  truth 
is,  as  Azara  and  others  have  remarked,  that  these  tremen- 
dous creatures  rarely  attack  the  human  race,  except  in  cases 
of  great  necessity,  or  in  self-defence. 

Africa  produces  two  other  fine  feline  animals,  the  panther 
and  the  leopard,  on  the  history  of  which  we  shall  not  at 
present  enter.  Although  they  are  both  well  known,  and 
frequently  exhibited  in  our  menageries,  considerable  con- 
fusion still  exists  regarding  their  natural  history  and  loca- 
lities in  the  works  of  zoological  writers.  Lynxes  also  occur 
in  Africa. 


Passing  over  the  seals  and  other  amphibious  quadrupeds, 
of  which  we  know  of  none  characteristic  of  this  continent, 
we  come  to  the  order  called  Glires  by  naturalists,  more  fa- 
miliarly named  gnawers.  Of  these  the  first  and  most 
beautiful  tribe  which  presents  itself  is  that  of  the  squirrels. 

Few  of  these  inhabit  the  country  now  under  discussion. 
The  forests  of  America  are  their  famiUar  homes,  and  many 
species  also  occur  in  India  and  the  Asiatic  islands.  But 
the  African  woods  are  likewise,  though  to  a  more  limited 
extent,  enlivened  by  the  gambols  of  these  graceful  creatures. 

The  palm-squirrel  is  somewhat  larger  than  our  British 
species.  It  inhabits  the  warmer  regions  of  Asia  and  Africa, 
and  dwells  on  palm-trees.  The  Madagascar  squirrel  is 
found  in  the  island  of  that  name  ;  and  the  Gingi  squirrel, 
so  called  from  its  Indian  locality,  is  also  alleged  to  occur  at 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Of  the  marmot  tribe,  numerous  in  the  north  of  Asia  and 
America,  and  represented  in  Europe  by  the  Alpine  species, 
so  famous  for  its  long-continued  winter  sleep,  Africa  pro- 
duces very  few  examples.  The  only  one  indeed  with  which 
we  are  acquainted  is  the  marmot  gundi  {Arctomys  gundi  of 
Gmelin),  a  species  resembling  the  European  kind  in  its 
form,  but  characterized  by  having  only  four  toes  to  each 
foot.  The  size  is  that  of  a  rabbit ;  its  colour  reddish  ;  its 
ears  very  short,  but  broad  in  their  openings  ;  and  its  locality 
Mount  Atlas, 


QUADRUPEDS.  307 

We  may  here  notice  the  genus  BaiJiyergus,  peculiar  to 
the  south  of  Africa.  The  sand  mole  {B.  mariiihius),  as  the 
larger  species  is  usually  called,  occurs  in  abundance  along 
the  sandy  shoresof  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  it  fre- 
quently renders  the  ground  hollow  by  its  excavations,  and 
consequently  inconvenient,  if  not  dangerous,  to  horsemen. 
It  feeds  principally  on  bulbous  roots,  such  as  those  of  ixiae 
and  antholyzae.  This  animal  is  of  the  size  of  a  rabbit. 
It  runs  awkwardly  on  the  surface,  but  burrows  and  makes 
its  way  under  ground  with  great  facility.  The  other  spe- 
cies is  known  by  the  name  of  Cape  rat  (B.  Capensis).  Its 
habits  are  similar  to  those  of  the  species  just  mentioned, 
but  it  is  considerably  smaller.  It  is  destructive  to  gardens 
and  ornamented  pleasure  grounds,  by  throwing  up  the 
earth,  like  our  European  mole,  in  the  course  of  its  subter- 
ranean excavations.  A  third  species  has  been  lately 
described  under  the  name  of  Bathyergus  Hottentotics,  by 
MM.  Lesson  and  Gamot. 

Another  genus  found  in  Africa,  though  not  peculiar  to 
that  continent,  is  the  Dipus  or  gerboa.  The  Egyptian 
gerboa  inhabits  the  environs  of  Memphis  and  the  Pyramids. 
This  species  appears  to  have  been  known  to  the  ancients 
under  the  name  of  two-footed  mouse.  It  is  a  beautiful 
little  animal,  remarkable  for  its  extended  tail  and  the  great 
length  of  its  hind  legs.  It  is  hunted  with  greyhounds  by 
the  Arabs  of  the  kingdom  of  Tripoli.  The  Prince  of  Tunis 
presented  Bruce  with  a  trained  greyhound,  which  afforded 
him  excellent  sport  in  that  way. 

The  Cape  gerboa  (D.  Cafer),  now  referred  by  naturalists 
to  the  genus  Helamys,  is  the  largest  of  the  tribe.  It  mea- 
sures one  foot  two  inches  from  nose  to  tail,  and  the  tail  is 
fifteen  inches  long.  This  species  is  remarkable  for  its 
great  strength  and  activity.  It  will  spring  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  at  a  single  bound,  and  inhabits  the  mountainous 
countries  to  the  north  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  is 
called  the  springcn  haas,  or  jumping  hare,  by  the  Dutch 
colonists. 


Rats  and  mice,  like  many  other  domestic  nuisances,  are 
now  very  generally  distributed  over  the  globe.  Wherever 
European  nations  have  colonized,  these  small  but  adven- 
turous creatures  have  accompanied  the  merchant  or  the 


SOS  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

mariner ;  and  from  the  forlorn  settlements  of  the  for  tradcre 
of  North  America  to  the  populous  cities  of  the  south  of 
Asia,  their  furtive  habits  of  destruction  are  the  source  of 
equal  annoyance.  The  common  brown  rat  {Mus  decuma,- 
nv/s)  is  a  native  of  India,  and  only  made  its  appearance 
among  the  western  nations  of  Europe  from  the  begimiing 
to  the  middle  of  last  century.  The  original  country  of  its 
predecessor,  the  black  rat  {M.  rattus),  if  not  unknown,  is  at 
least  doubtful.  It  is  not  mentioned  by  any  ancient  writer, 
and  appears  to  have  been  introduced  into  Europe  during  the 
middle  ages.  Within  the  last  half  century  it  has  been 
nearly  extirpated  from  most  of  the  great  European  cities 
by  its  larger  and  more  powerful  rival. 

Africa  produces  several  species  of  murine  anunals,  not 
hitherto  recognised  in  any  other  region  of  the  earth.  A 
beautiful  small  species,  discovered  and  described  by  Sparr- 
man,  is  native  to  the  forest  countries  of  the  Slangen  River, 
eastward  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  appears,  how- 
ever, to  be  nearly  allied  to  the  genus  arvicola,  which  includes 
the  water-rats. 

The  dormice  (genus  Myoxus)  are  also  represented  ia 
Africa  by  a  species  communicated  by  Pennant  to  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  and  said  to  have  been  discovered  among  the  moun 
tains  of  Sneuwberg,  above  800  miles  beyond  the  Cape.  Its 
size  is  that  of  a  squirrel ;  but  its  shape  is  broader  and  mora 
flattened.  Nothing  is  known  of  its  habits  or  history,  or 
whether,  as  Martial  supposed  of  another  species  of  dor- 
mouse, it  not  only  hibernates  but  is  fattened  by  repose, — 
Tola  mi  hi  dormitur  hiems  ;  et  pinguior  illo 
Tempore  sum  quo  me  nu  nisi  somnus  alit. 


We  have  seen,  even  in  the  course  of  the  slight  view 
which  we  have  hitherto  taken  of  the  quadrupeds  of  Africa, 
that  some  genera  are  emireiy  restricted  to  that  continent, 
while  others  are  distributed  likewise  over  Europe  and  Asia. 
The  genus  Hystrix,  which  contains  the  porcupines,  as  for- 
merly constituted  was  remarkable  for  its  dispersion  over  ail 
the  four  quarters  of  the  globe  ;  but,  as  the  American  spe- 
cies are  classed  by  recent  systematists  in  a  separate  genus, 
the  true  porcupines  may  be  said  to  be  confined  to  the  Old 
World. 

The  common  porcupine  {Hystrix  dorsata)  inhabits  twa 


QUADRUPEDS.  300 

very  distant  points  of  Africa,  Barbary  and  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  It  is  also  founiiin  India,  Persia,  Greece,  Italy, 
and  Sicily.  Mr.  Brydone  imbrms  us,  in  his  Tour,  that  it 
is  frequent  in  that  island  in  the  district  of  Baiae,  and  that 
he  killed  several  during  a  shooting  party  on  the  Monte  Bar- 
baro.  He  dined  upon  his  game,  but  found  it  luscious  and 
soon  palling  upon  the  appetite.  The  singular  aspect  of 
this  animal  seems  to  have  attracted  the  attention  of  the 
lovers  of  nature  at  a  very  early  period,  and  many  fabulous 
properties  were  added  to  the  true  character  of  a  creature  in 
itself  sufficiently  curious.  It  was  said  to  possess  the  power 
of  darting  its  quills  at  pleasure  with  great  force,  and  to  a 
considerable  distance,  against  its  enemies.  There  is  no 
doubt,  that  when  agitated  either  by  fear  or  anger,  it  bristles 
up  its  quills,  rattles  them  against  each  other  as  an  Indian 
warrior  might  his  quiver  full  of  arrows,  and  that  in  this 
temporary  agitation  a  quill  may  be  occasionally  thrown  out, 
and  might  even  settle  itself  in  the  body  of  an  adversary ; 
but  they  are  essentially  fixed,  though  not  immoveable  organs, 
and  can  no  more  be  parted  with  in  self-defence  than  the 
spines  of  the  hedgehog.  Claudian,  however,  observes,  that 
the  porcupine  is  himself  at  once  the  bow,  the  quiver,  and 
the  arrow,  which  he  employs  against  the  hunters, — 

Ecce,  brevis  propriis  munitur  bestia  telis, 
Extemam  nee  quterit  opem,  fert  omnia  secum, 
Se  pharetra,  sese  jaculo,  sese  uiitur  arcu  I 

The  porcupine  feeds  chiefly  on  roots,  fruits,  and  other 
vegetable  produce.  It  dwells  in  subterranean  retreats,  and 
comes  abroad  more  frequently  during  the  night  than  the  day. 

We  come  now  to  the  hares  and  rabbits,  a  genus  widely 
distributed  from  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Straits 
of  Magellan,  and  from  Siberia  to  Bengal.  The  common 
rabbit  {Lepus  cunicidus)  is  supposed  to  have  been  originally 
introduced  from  Africa  into  Spain,  and  to  have  been  ex- 
tended from  the  latter  country  over  the  rest  of  Europe. 

The  Egyptian  hare  (Lepus  Egyptius)  occurs  also  at  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  ears  and  hind  legs  are  propor- 
tionally longer  than  those  of  the  European  species.  The 
anterior  legs  appear  to  have  only  four  toes,  owing  to  the 
thumb  or  mner  toe  being  very  small.     Its  fUr,  though  not 


310  NATURAL   HISTORY  OF   AFRICA.' 

entirely  similar,  does  not  greatly  differ  from  that  of  oui 
own  species.     Those  from  South  Africa  are  of  large  size. 

A  small  species  (L.  arenarius)  about  one-fourth  less  than 
a  rabbit,  was  lately  discovered  by  M.  Delalande,  inhabiting 
sandy  districts  in  the  country  of  the  Hottentots. 


The  singular  family  of  the  armadilloes  would  require  no 
mention  in  our  present  sketch,  were  it  not  that  the  laborious 
though  inaccurate  Seba  has  represented  one  of  them  under 
the  name  of  the  African  armadillo.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that 
no  species  of  the  genus  is  found  elsewhere  than  in  America. 

An  animal  peculiar  to  Africa  is  the  Cape  ant-eater  ( Oryc^e- 
r opus  Cap CTisis).  The  ant-eaters,  properly  so  called  (genus 
Myrmecophaga\  are  peculiar  to  America  ;  so  that  the  spe- 
cies now  under  consideration  may  be  regarded  merely  as 
their  African  representative.  It  is  an  animal  of  large  dimen- 
sions, measuring  between  three  and  four  feet  in  length,  ex- 
clusive of  the  tail,  which  is  nearly  two  feet  long.  Its  habits 
are  nocturnal  and  subterraneous,  and  its  food  consists  of 
ants  and  termites,  which  it  seizes  with  its  long  and  gluti- 
nous tongue,  after  having  disarranged  their  dwellings  with 
its  paws.  It  occurs  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 


The  animal  kingdom  scarcely  presents  us  with  quadru- 
peds of  a  more  marked  and  peculiar  aspect  than  the  pan 
golins  or  manis  tribe.  Instead  of  hair,  they  are  covered 
with  a  scaly  armour,  consisting  of  numerous  leaf-like  plates, 
lying  over  each  other  after  the  manner  of  tiles  ;  and  their 
slender  cylindrical  bodies  and  lengthened  tails  give  them 
80  much  the  aspect  of  reptiles,  that  they  are  very  generally 
known  under  the  name  of  scaly  lizards.  They  are  harm- 
less animals,  feeding  like  the  ant-eaters  on  insects,  particu- 
larly ants,  which  they  collect  by  thrusting  their  long  tongues 
into  the  dwellings  of  these  industrious  creatures.  They 
inhabit  both  India  and  Africa.  The  species  called,  par  ex- 
cellence, the  long-tailed  (Manis  tetradactyla^  Linn.),  inhabits 
Senegal  and  the  coast  of  Guinea. 

We  now  arrive  at  the  pachydermatous,  or  thick-skinned 
animals,  corresponding  to  the  order  BELLUiE  of  Linnaeus. 


QUADRUPEDS.  ^ll 

In  this  division  are  included  the  elephant,  the  tapir,  the 
rhinoceros,  the  hyrax,  or  Cape  marmot,  the  pecaris,  the 
babyroussa,  the  wild  boar,  the  African  boar,  the  hippopota- 
mus, and  the  horse. 

The  most  gigantic  of  all  living  terrestrial  animals,  the 
elephant,  combines  superhuman  strength  with  almost  human 
wisdom,  in  a  manner  otherwise  unequalled  among  the  brute 
creation.  Many  instances  are  on  record  of  its  retentive 
memory,  its  grateful  and  affectionate  disposition,  and  its 
general  intelUgence  as  a  discriminating,  if  not  reflecting 
creature.  From  the  earliest  ages  its  stupendous  size  and 
unexampled  sagacity  have  formed  a  theme  of  wonder  and 
admiration  to  mankind.  Elephants  in  the  wild  state  are 
gregarious  and  herbivorous.  They  are  naturally  averse  to 
the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold ;  and,  although  inhabitants 
of  some  of  the  most  sultry  regions  of  the  earth,  they  shelter 
themselves  from  the  overpowering  heat  of  the  midday  sun 
in  the  comparative  coolness  of  those  umbrageous  forests 
which,  both  in  Africa  and  Asia,  are  their  chosen  places  of 
abode. 

Of  the  Asiatic  elephants,  the  Ceylonese  are  the  most 
celebrated.  Indeed,  the  torrid  zone  seems  the  most  favour- 
able for  the  production  of  the  largest  races.  Along  the 
coast  of  Malabar,  elephants  occur  as  far  north  as  the  terri- 
tories of  Coorgah  Rajah  ;  but  these,  according  to  Mr.  Corse 
(Scott),  are  inferior  to  the  breed  from  Ceylon. 

The  African  elephant  is  easily  distinguished  from  the 
Asiatic,  by  his  rounder  head,  his  convex  forehead,  his  enor- 
mous ears,  and  the  lozenge-marked  surface  of  his  grinders. 
His  tusks  are  also  longer,  and  those  of  his  female  are 
equally  great ;  whereas  the  female  of  the  Asiatic  elephant 
has  very  small  tusks.  He  inhabits  a  wide  extent  of  Africa, 
from  Senegal  to  the  Cape,  and  abounds  in  the  forests  of  the 
interior.  The  x\frican  elephant  has  not  been  rendered  ser- 
viceable to  man,  like  that  of  Asia.  This,  however,  arises 
from  no  defect  in  the  docihty  of  the  animal,  but  rather  from 
a  difference  in  the  social  and  political  conditions  of  the  hu- 
man tribes  of  Africa,  and  their  inferior  civilization.  The 
ancient  Carthaginians  made  use  of  elephants,  which  there 
is  no  reason  to  suppose  were  otherwise  than  of  African 
origin,  in  like  manner  as  the  Asiatic  variety  was  used  by 
IPorus  and  the  Indian  kings.     In  modern  times,  the  inven- 


812  NATURAL   H13T0RY   OF   AFRICA. 

tion  and  extended  use  of  fireanns  have  rendered  the  war* 
like  services  of  these  huge  creatures  of  comparatively  little 
avail ;  but  their  great  strength  and  sobriety  of  conduct  ren« 
der  them  highly  efficient,  indeed  indispensable,  in  eastern 
countries  as  beasts  of  burden,  and  as  accessaries  in  the 
sports  of  the  field. 

It  is  not  yet  clearly  ascertained  whether  the  elephants  of 
the  eastern  shores  of  Africa  are  the  same  as  those  of  the 
interior  and  western  districts,  or  whether  they  do  not  exliibit 
a  closer  approximation  to  the  Asiatic  species.  We  shall 
conclude  by  observing  that  the  size  of  the  elephant  has  been 
much  exaggerated.  Dr.  Hill,  for  example,  asserts,  that, 
when  full  grown,  it  is  from  seventeen  to  twenty  feet  high. 
One-half  of  the  latter  height  is  probably  nearer  the  truth, 
even  for  an  individual  of  more  than  usual  size,  and  twelve 
feet  may  be  stated  as  the  extreme  dimensions. 


Second  in  size,  though  widely  distant  in  sense,  is  the 
rhinoceros,  an  animal  of  a  sour  and  stubborn  disposition, 
and  in  every  way  less  trustworthy  than  the  elephant.  Of 
this  genus  there  are  several  species,  two  of  which  (if  R. 
Burchellii  is  entitled  to  specific  distinction)  inhabit  Africa. 
The  others  are  native  to  India,  and  the  great  islands  of  Java 
and  Sumatra.  The  African  species  {R.  Africanus)  is  armed 
with  a  couple  of  horns  ;  its  coat  is  not  distinguished  by  vo- 
luminous folds,  and  it  wants  the  incisive  teeth.  The  sense 
of  sight  is  said  to  be  rather  defective  in  the  rhinoceros : 
those  of  smell  nnd  hearing  are  acute. 

Another  animal,  characteristic  of,  though  not  entirely 
pecuhar  to  Africa,  is  the  hyrax  or  Cape  marmot.  This  spe- 
cies is  supposed  by  some  biblical  annotators  to  be  the  cony 
of  the  Scriptures.  It  inhabits  the  rocky  territories  of 
many  parts  of  Africa,  and  occurs,  with  little  variation  in 
its  external  aspect,  in  Syria.  With  the  exception  of  the 
horns,  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  rhinoceros  in 
miniature. 

The  Ethiopian  hog  {Phascnchcerus  Africanus)  is  a  fierce 
and  savage  animal,  allied  to  the  wild  boar  in  its  habits,  but 
distinguished  by  a  pair  of  large  lobes  or  wattles  placed  be- 
neath the  eyes.  The  tusks  of  the  upper  jaw  bend  upwards 
in  a  semicircular  manner  towards  the  forehead.  When 
attacked,  it  is  apt  to  become  furious,  and,  rushing  on  ita 


QUADRUPEDS.  313 

adversary  with  great  force  and  swiftness,  inflicts  the  most 
desperate,  and  sometimes  fatal  wounds.  It  inhabits  a  wide 
extent  of  country  along  the  western  side  of  Africa,  from 
Senegal  to  the  Cape  ;  and  it  also  occurs  specifically  the  same 
in  Ethiopia.  A  new  species  of  this  genus  has  been  re- 
cently discovered  in  the  north  of  Africa  by  M.  Riippell.  It 
is  named  Phascoch<zrus  barbatus.  The  ascertainment  of 
the  latter  animal  is  a  proof,  among  many  others  which 
might  be  adduced,  of  the  impropriety  of  denominating  a 
species  from  the  continent  which  it  inhabits.  Few  species 
are  so  isolated  in  the  animal  kingdom  as  to  exist  alone  over 
a  great  tract  of  country,  without  claiming  kindred  with  any 
other  ;  and  we  may  fairly  infer,  a  priori,  that  when  one  of 
a  genus  is  discovered,  a  second  or  a  third  will  ere  long 
make  its  appearance.  When  this  happens,  such  specific 
names  as  Africanus,  Americanus,  &c.  cease  to  be  of  a  dis- 
criminating or  exclusive  nature,  and  consequently  lose  their 
value. 

Next  to  the  elephant  and  rhinoceros,  perhaps  the  most 
bulky  land  animal  with  which  naturalists  are  acquainted, 
is  the  hippopotamus  or  river-horse.  It  is  peculiar  to  Africa, 
and  inhabits  the  fresh  waters  of  that  continent.  It  formerly 
existed  in  Lower  Egypt,  but  has  long  since  disappeared 
from  that  district.  Mr.  Bruce  makes  mention  of  hippopo- 
tami as  existing  in  the  Lake  Tzana,  exceeding  twenty  feet 
in  length.  It  would  be  hard  to  limit  the  growth  of  this  na- 
turally gigantic  species  ;  but  the  largest  ever  killed  by  Co- 
lonel Gordon,  an  experienced  hippopotamist,  did  not  exceed 
eleven  feet  eight  inches.  M.  Desmoulins  regards  the  spe- 
cies of  Senegal  as  differing  from  those  of  the  more  south- 
em  parts  of  Africa.  These  animals  are  chiefly  valuable  on 
account  of  their  ivory  tusks,  which,  being  harder  than  those 
of  elephants,  and  not  so  subject  to  turn  yellow,  are  much 
esteemed  by  dentists.  Their  hides  are  formed  into  buck- 
lers by  several  of  the  African  tribes. 


We  now  arrive  at  the  genus  Equus,  or  horse  tribe,  which 
consists  of  six  species,  three  of  which  are  peculiar  to  Africa, 
viz.  the  mountain-zebra  {E.  zebra,  Linn.,  E.  montanics, 
Burchell),  the  zebra  of  the  plains  (E.  zebra,  Burchell), 
and  the  quagga,  {E.  quagga,  Linn.)  Neither  the  ass  nor  the 
common  horse  are  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  this  continent. 


314  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

The  aspect  of  the  zebra  is  too  famiUarly  known  to  re- 
quire description.  It  is  one  of  the  most  fancifully  adorned 
of  all  known  quadrupeds  ;  but  the  beauty  of  its  external  ap- 
pearance is  its  chief  merit,  as  its  disposition  is  wayward 
and  capricious  in  the  extreme.  With  the  exception  of  one 
or  two  instances,  in  which  persevering  individuals  have  suc- 
ceeded in  subduing  the  stubbornness  of  its  nature,  it  has 
not  been  rendered  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  the  hu- 
man race.  It  is  a  mountain-animal,  called  dauw  by  the 
Hottentots,  and  is  scarcely  ever  seen  on  the  plains. 

The  zebra  of  the  plains,  although  only  recently  charac- 
terized as  a  distinct  kind,  is  in  fact  a  better  known  and  more 
abundant  species  than  the  other.  It  is  chiefly  distinguished  by 
the  want  of  rings  upon  the  legs.  *'  I  stopped,"  says  Mr.  Bur- 
chell,  "  to  examine  these  zebras  with  my  pocket  telescope : 
they  were  the  most  beautifully  marked  animals  I  had  ever 
seen ;  their  clean  sleek  limbs  glittered  in  the  sun,  and  the 
brightness  and  regularity  of  their  striped  coat  presented  a 
picture  af  extraordinary  beauty,  in  whach  probably  they  are 
not  surpassed  by  any  quadruped  with  which  we  are  at  pre- 
sent acquainted.  It  is  indeed  equalled  in  this  particular 
by  the  dauw,  whose  stripes  are  more  defined  and  regular, 
but  which  do  not  offer  to  the  eye  so  lively  a  colouring." 

The  quagga  is  more  nearly  allied  to  the  zebra  of  the 
plains  than  to  that  of  the  mountains.  It  lives  in  troops  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cape,  and,  in  common  with  the 
zebra,  is  frequently  found  in  company  with  ostriches.  The 
wary  disposition  of  these  birds,  and  their  great  quickness 
of  sight,  are  supposed  to  be  serviceable  to  the  congre- 
gated group  in  warning  them  of  the  approach  of  their  ene- 
mies. 

The  next  great  tribe  of  animals  which  falls  under  oui 
consideration,  is  that  of  the  ruminating  class  (order  Pecora, 
Linn.) ;  and  of  that  tribe  the  most  important  member,  and 
the  most  influential  on  the  destinies  of  Africa,  is  (he  camel, 
or  "shipof  thedesert,"as  it  is  beautifully  called  in  the  figura- 
tive language  of  the  Arabs.  "  Of  all  animals,"  says  Buffon, 
"  the  camel  is  the  most  ancient,  the  completest,  and  most 
laborion.*'  slave.  He  is  the  most  ancient  slave,  because  he 
inhabit?  those  climates  where  men  were  first  polished.  He 
IS  the  rrv  «t  complete  slave,  because  in  the  other  species  of 
domestic  animals,  as  the  horse  the  dog,  the  ox,  the  sheep, 


QUADRUPEDS.  315 

fkie  hog,  &c.  we  still  find  individuals  in  a  state  of  nature, 
and  which  have  not  submitted  to  man.  But  the  whole  spe- 
cies of  the  camel  is  enslaved ;  for  none  of  them  exist  in 
their  primitive  state  of  liberty  and  independence.  Lastly, 
he  is  the  most  laborious  slave,  because  he  has  never  been 
nourished  for  pomp,  like  most  horses,  nor  for  amusement, 
like  most  dogs,  nor  for  the  use  of  the  table,  like  the  ox,  tha 
hog,  and  the  sheep  ;  because  he  has  always  been  made  a 
beast  of  burden,  whom  men  have  never  taken  the  trouble 
of  yoking  in  machines,  but  have  regarded  the  body  of  the 
animal  as  a  living  carriage,  which  they  may  load  or  over- 
load, even  during  sleep  ;  for  when  pressed,  the  load  is  some- 
times not  taken  off,  but  the  animal  lies  down  under  it,  with 
his  legs  folded,  and  his  body  resting  on  his  stomach." 

There  are  two  species  of  camel.  The  Bactrian  species, 
or  camel  properly  so  called  {Camelus  Bactrianus),  is  cha- 
racterized by  a  couple  of  humps, — one  on  the  rump,  and 
another  above  the  shoulders.  It  is  an  Asiatic  animal,  and 
is  said  still  to  roam  wild  in  the  desert  of  Shamo,  on  the  fron- 
tiers of  China.  It  is  capable  of  being  acclimated,  without 
much  difficulty,  in  comparatively  northern  countries,  and 
was  introduced  into  Tuscany  by  the  Grand  Duke  Leopold, 
where  it  still  breeds  in  the  maremmas  of  the  Pisan  territory 
It  has,  however,  neither  spread  over  the  country,  nor  be- 
come at  all  extensively  useful  for  the  general  purposes  of 
rural  labour.  This  is  chiefly  attributed  to  the  improvident 
calculations  of  the  minister  Salviati,  who,  on  their  first  in- 
troduction demanded  about  a  thousand  francs  a-piece  from 
such  as  inclined  to  purchase  these  animals  for  the  sake  of 
extending  the  breed.  They  are  frequently  seen  in  the 
streets  of  Pisa,  carrying  firewood,  or  other  articles  of  do- 
mestic consumption,  from  the  present  Grand  Duke's  farms., 
It  is  this  species  which  is  employed  in  Thibet  and  Tur- 
kistan. 

The  other  species  of  camel  (C  dromedarius)  has  only  a 
single  hump  on  its  back.  It  has  spread  from  Arabia  all  over 
the  northern  parts  of  Africa,  and  has  long  been  essential  to 
the  commerce  of  those  dry  and  desert  regions.  It  is  also 
found  in  Syria,  Persia,  &c.,  and  was  known  under  the 
name  of  Arabian  camel  to  the  ancient  writers.  The  term 
dromedary  (from  the  Greek  Spondi)^  originally  applied  to  a 
variety  of  this  species,  remarkable  for  its  swiftness,  as  the 


316  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

name  imports,  is  now  for  the  most  part  bestowed  on  the  spe- 
cies itself. 

"  To  the  wild  Arab  of  the  desert,  the  camel  is  all  that  his 
necessities  require.  He  feeds  on  the  flesh,  drinks  the  milk, 
makes  clothes  and  tents  of  the  hair ;  belts,  sandals,  saddles, 
and  buckets  of  the  hide  ;  he  conveys  himself  and  family  on 
his  back,  makes  his  pillow  of  his  side,  and  his  shelter  of  him 
against  the  whirlwind  of  sand.  Couched  in  a  circle  around 
him,  his  camels  form  a  fence,  and  in  battle  an  intrenchment 
behind  which  his  family  and  property  are  obstinately,  and 
often  successfully  defended.  All  these  advantages  are  a 
necessary  result  of  the  constitutional  faculties  and  struc- 
ture of  the  camel  when  residing  in  the  locality  assigned 
him  by  nature  :  under  another  atmosphere,  his  qualifica- 
tions become  less  important,  and  his  conformation  less  ap- 
plicable. In  Tartary  and  Southern  Russia,  where  the  Bac 
trian  species  (longer  of  body  and  shorter  of  limb  than  the 
Arabian)  is  harnessed  to  wheel-carriages,  and  even  to  the 
plough,  the  elevation  of  his  shoulders  evidently  produces  a 
waste  of  strength  ;  and,  in  a  country  where  herbage  and 
water  are  proportionally  abundant,  his  sobriety  is  not  re- 
quired. If  the  camel  is  transferred  to  rocky  and  moun- 
tainous regions,  his  feet  soon  wear,  and  he  ascends  and  de- 
scends with  great  awkwardness.  If  he  be  brought  into 
temperate  regions,  the  frequent  mud,  and  above  all,  the 
thawed  snows,  soften  his  feet,  and  he  is  unable  to  work ; 
as  is  at  least  partially  experienced  in  Central  and  Northern 
Asia,  notwithstanding  that  the  Bactrian  camel,  again  pro- 
vided by  nature  for  his  particular  locality,  has  soles  of 
greater  hardness  than  the  Arabian,  and  the  dissolution  of 
the  snow  is  excessively  rapid  when  once  begun." — Griffith's 
Animal  Kingdom,  vol.  iv.  p.  40. 

The  ancient  authors  do  not  seem  to  take  notice  of  the  ca- 
mel as  an  inhabit?nt  of  Northern  Africa.  It  is,  however, 
mentioned  in  Genesis  (chap.  xii.  ver.  16)  as  among  the 
gifts  bestowed  by  Pharaoh  on  Abram,  and  must  therefore 
have  been  well  known  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile  at  a  period 
anterior  to  the  oldest  of  the  Greek  or  Roman  writers.  It  has 
indeed  been  remarked  as  a  singular  circumstance,  that  the 
Romans,  who  carried  on  such  frequent  wars  in  Africa,  should 
not  have  thought  of  mentioning  these  animals,  till  Proco- 
pius  noticed  canicl-riding  Moors  in  arms  against  Solomon, 


QrADRUPEDS.  317 

the  lieutenant  of  Belisarius.  Their  uses  in  modem  timea 
are  so  well  known,  and  all  books  of  African  travel  are  so 
frequent  in  their  description  of  these  docile  beasts  of  burden 
that  we  deem  it  unnecessary  to  dwell  any  longer  on  the 
subject. 


Very  few  animals  of  the  deer  kind,  properly  so  called,  are 
found  in  Africa.  The  red  deer,  however  {Cervas  elaphrus), 
one  of  the  noblest  of  the  tribe,  and  the  most  stately  of  all  the 
wild  animals  still  indigenous  to  Britain,  occurs  in  some  of 
its  northern  quarters.  But  to  these  it  was  not  improbably 
imported,  at  some  unknown  period,  from  Europe. 

Before  proceeding  to  the  more  abundant  family  of  the 
antelopes,  of  which  Africa  is  the  great  emporium,  we  shall 
mention,  as  a  species  entirely  peculiar  to  this  continent,  the 
giraffe  or  camelopard,  the  tallest  and,  in  every  other  respect, 
one  of  the  most  singular  of  quadrupeds.  Its  appearance  is 
too  familiar  to  our  readers  to  require  description.  We  shall 
merely  state  that  it  is  a  timid  and  gentle  animal,  feeding 
principally  on  the  leaves  of  trees  (especially  those  of  the 
genus  Mimosa),  and  inhabiting  the  plains  of  Central  and 
Southern  Africa.  Its  gait,  or  mode  of  progression,  is  de- 
scribed as  extraordinary  by  Mr.  Lichtenstein.  "  We  had 
scarcely  travelled  an  hour  when  the  Hottentots  called  oui 
attention  to  some  object  on  a  hill  not  far  off  on  the  left 
hand,  which  seemed  to  move.  The  head  of  something  ap- 
peared almost  immediately  after,  feeding  on  the  other  side 
of  the  hill,  and  it  was  concluded  that  it  must  be  that  of  a 
very  large  animal.  This  was  confinned,  when  after  going 
scarcely  a  hundred  steps  farther,  two  tall  swan-necked 
giraffes  stood  almost  directly  before  us.  Our  transports  were 
indescribable,  particularly  as  the  creatures  themselves  did 
not  perceive  us,  and  therefore  gave  us  full  time  to  examine 
them,  and  to  prepare  for  an  earnest  and  serious  chase.  The 
one  was  smaller  and  of  a  paler  colour  than  the  other,  which 
Vischer  immediately  pronounced  to  be  a  colt,  the  child  of 
the  larger.  Our  horses  were  saddled,  and  our  guns  loaded 
in  an  instant,  when  the  chase  commenced.  Since  all  the 
wild  animals  of  Africa  run  against  the  wind,  so  that  we 
■were  pretty  well  assured  which  way  the  course  of  these 
objects  of  our  ardent  wishes  would  be  directed,  Vischer,  as 
the  most  experienced  hunter,  separated  himself  from  us,  and 
Dd3 


318  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

by  a  circuit  took  the  animals  in  front,  that  he  might  stop 
their  way,  while  I  was  to  attack  them  in  the  rear.  I  had 
almost  got  within  shot  of  them  when  they  perceived  me, 
and  began  to  fly  in  the  direction  we  expected.  But  their 
flight  was  so  beyond  all  idea  extraordinary,  that,  between 
laughter,  astonishment,  and  delight,  I  almost  forgot  my  de- 
signs upon  the  harmless  creatures'  lives.  From  the  extra- 
vagant disproportion  between  the  height  of  the  fore  to  that 
of  the  hinder  parts,  and  of  the  height  to  the  length  of  the 
animal,  great  obstacles  are  presented  to  its  moving  with  any 
degree  of  swiftness.  When  Le  Vaillant  asserts  that  he  has 
seen  the  giraffe  trot,  he  spares  me  any  farther  trouble  in 
proving  that  this  animal  never  presented  itself  alive  before 
him.*  How  in  the  world  should  an  animal,  so  dispropor- 
tioned  in  height  before  and  behind,  trot  1  The  giraffe  can 
only  gallop,  as  I  can  affirm  from  my  own  experience,  having 
seen  between  forty  and  fifty  at  different  times,  both  in  their 
slow  and  hasty  movement,  for  they  only  stop  when  they  are 
feeding  quietly.  But  this  gallop  is  so  heavy  and  unwieldy, 
and  seems  performed  with  so  much  labour,  that  in  a  distance 
of  more  than  a  hundred  paces,  comparing  the  ground  cleared 
with  the  size  of  the  animal  and  of  the  surrounding  objects, 
it  might  almost  be  said  that  a  man  goes  faster  on  foot. 
The  heaviness  of  the  movement  is  only  compensated  by  the 
length  of  the  steps,  each  one  of  which  clears,  on  a  moderate 
computation,  from  twelve  to  sixteen  feet."  A  tolerably 
good  horse  overtakes  the  giraffe  without  difficulty,  especially 
over  rising  ground. 

Camelopards  were  known  to  the  Romans,  and  were  ex- 
hibited in  the  Circsean  Games  by  Caesar  the  dictator.  The 
Emperor  Gordian  afterward  exhibited  ten  at  a  single  show  , 
and  tolerably  accurate  figures  of  this  animal,  both  in  a 
browsing  and  grazing  attitude,  have  been  handed  dovm  by 
the  Praenestine  pavement.  During  the  darker  ages,  and  for 
some  centuries  after  the  revival  of  learning,  it  seems  to 
have  remained  unknown  to  Europeans  ;  but,  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  sixteenth  century,  the  emperor  of  Germany,  Fre- 

*  It  would  be  more  proper,  and  equally  logical,  rather  to  infer  that 
Le  Vaillant  misapplied  the  term  which  he  made  use  of  to  designate  tlie 
movements  of  the  camelopard,  than  that  he  imagined  himself  to  have  seen 
an  animal  alive  which  had  uever  presented  itself  to  him  in  that  condi- 
tion.—Ed. 


QUADRUPEDS.  318 

dericus  ^nobarbus,  received  one  from  the  sultan  of  Baoy- 
lon.  Lorenzo  de  Medicis  was  also  presented  with  a  live 
camelopard  by  the  bey  of  Tunis ;  and  in  our  own  times 
they  have  been  received  by  the  kings  both  of  France  and 
England  from  the  (late)  dey  of  Algiers. 

Africa  is  the  country  of  antelopes.  These  creatures  are 
the  most  lively,  graceful,  and  beautifully  proportioned  ot 
the  brute  creation.  Wherever  known,  they  have  attracted 
the  attention  and  admiration  of  mankind  from  the  earliest 
ages  ;  and  the  beauty  of  their  dark  and  lustrous  eyes  affords 
a  frequent  theme  to  the  poetical  imaginings  of  the  eastern 
poets.  Their  names  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  the  most 
ancient  of  the  eastern  mythologies,  and  their  figures  occur 
among  the  oldest  of  the  astronomical  symbols.  Naturalists 
are  more  or  less  acquainted  with  about  fifty  species,  the 
greater  proportion  of  which  are  peculiar  to  the  African  con- 
tinent. 

The  blue  antelope  {Antilope  leucophcea),  formerly  met  with 
in  the  Cape  colony,  is  now  so  rare  in  South  Africa,  that  no 
specimen  has  been  killed  there  since  the  year  1799.  Its  his- 
tory and  manners  are  little  known.  The  roan  antelope  (A. 
equina)  is  a  very  large  animal,  measuring  nearly  eight  feet  in 
length.  It  was  found  by  Mr.  Burchell  among  the  moun- 
tainous plains  in  the  vicinity  of  Lattakoo.  The  Caffrarian 
oryx  {A.  oryx)  is  an  animal  equally  remarkable  for  the 
vigour  as  the  beauty  of  its  form.  It  inhabits  elevated  forests 
and  the  rocky  regions  of  Southern  Africa,  and  is  exceed- 
ingly fierce  during  the  rutting  season,  especially  when 
wounded.  A  friend  of  Major  Smith's  having  fired  at  one 
of  these  antelopes,  it  immediately  turned  upon  his  dogs,  and 
transfixed  one  of  them  upon  the  spot.  They  afford  the  best 
venison  of  any  of  the  species  found  in  the  south  of  Africa. 
The  small  white  buffalo  mentioned  by  Captain  Lyon  as  oc- 
curring in  the  Great  Desert  south  of  Tunis,  was  no  doubt  a 
species  of  oryx.  Another  animal  of  very  showy  aspect  be- 
longing to  this  tribe  is  the  addax,  recently  transmitted  from 
Nubia  by  M.  Riippell.  They  reside  in  pairs  on  the  barren 
deserts,  and,  extending  over  the  whole  Sahara,  are  found  as 
far  west  as  Senegal.  The  white-faced  antelope  (A.  py- 
garga)  is  inferior  in  size  to  the  stag  of  Europe,  According  to 
Major  Smith,  this  species  does  not  seem  to  be  known  iii 


320  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

Central  Africa.  It  is  found  in  the  regions  which  border  tbo 
colony  of  the  Cape,  and  is  called  blessbock  by  the  Dutch. 
In  manners  it  resembles  the  gnu,  and  lives  in  small  families 
of  seven  or  eight. 

The  springer  antelope  {A.  cuchon)  is  named  springbock 
by  the  Dutch.  It  inhabits  the  plains  of  Southern  and  Cen- 
tral Africa,  and  assembles  in  vast  flocks  during  its  migra- 
tory movements.  "  These  migrations,  which  are  said  to 
take  place  in  their  most  numerous  fonn  only  at  the  intervals 
of  several  years,  appear  to  come  from  the  north-east,  and  in 
masses  of  many  thousands,  devouring,  like  locusts,  every 
green  herb.  The  lion  has  been  seen  to  migrate,  and  walk 
in  the  midst  of  the  compressed  phalanx,  with  only  as  much 
space  between  him  and  his  victims  as  the  fears  of  those  im- 
mediately around  could  procure  by  pressing  outwards.  Th« 
foremost  of  these  vast  columns  are  fat,  and  the  rear  exceed 
ingly  lean,  while  the  direction  continues  one  way ;  but 
with  the  change  of  the  monsoon,  when  they  return  towards 
the  north,  the  rear  become  the  leaders,  fattening  in  their 
turn,  and  leaving  the  others  to  star\'e,  and  to  be  devoured 
by  the  numerous  enemies  who  follow  their  march.  At  all 
times  when  impelled  by  fear,  either  of  the  hunter  or  the 
beast  of  prey  darting  among  the  flock,  but  principally  when 
the  herds  are  assembled  in  countless  multitudes,  so  that  an 
alarm  cannot  spread  rapidly  and  open  the  means  of  flight, 
they  are  pressed  against  each  other,  and  their  anxiety  to  es- 
cape impels  them  to  bound  up  in  the  air,  showing,  at  the 
same  time,  the  white  spot  on  the  croup  dilated  by  the  eflfort, 
and  closing  again  in  their  descent,  and  producing  that  beauti- 
ful effect  from  which  they  have  obtained  the  nan)e  of 
Springer  and  Showy-bock." — Griffith's  Animal  Kingdom^ 
vol.  iv.  p.  209. 

The  kevel  {A.  kevella)  is  nearly  all  ied  to  the  dorcas,  but 
does  not  appear  to  occur  to  the  north  of  the  Atlas,  with  the 
exception,  perhaps,  of  the  western  coast  of  Morocco.  In 
Central  Africa,  across  the  banks  of  the  Congo,  and  south- 
wards as  far  as  the  country  of  the  CafTres,  it  forms  nu- 
merous flocks.  The  pallah  {A.  melampus)  is  a  beautiful 
species,  mentioned  by  Lichtenstein.  It  is  described  as  a 
model  of  elegance  and  vigour,  and  is  a  native  of  Caffraria, 
especially  the  BosLuana  country.  It  never  appears  to  the 
south  of  the  Koorges  Valley      The  klipspringer  {A,  ore(^ 


QUADRUPEDS.  321 

tragus)  was  formerly  very  abundant  near  tlie  Cape,  but  is 
now  rare,  except  in  the  interior  of  the  country.  They 
dwell  among  rocky  precipices,  and  spring  from  cliff  to  cliff 
with  surprising  strength  and  agility.  The  steenbock 
(A.  rupcstris)  likewise  dwells  among  the  rocks.  It  is  found 
near  Algoa  Bay,  but  is  now  rare  in  the  Cape  colony.  The 
vlackti  steenbock  (J.,  nifescens)  is  among  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  smaller  antelopes  of  Africa.  The  name  of  vlackti  is 
bestowed  upon  it,  in  consequence  of  its  inhabiting  the  plains 
or  open  country.  The  bush-antelope  {A.  silvicultrix)  is 
found  at  Sierra  Leone,  where  it  is  called  the  bush-goat.  It 
usually  quits  its  cover  in  search  of  food  about  sunrise. 
The  four-tufted  antelope  (A.  quadriscopa)  is  a  native  of 
Senegal.  The  duicker  bock  (A.  vicrgcns)  is  a  timid  species, 
fearful  of  thunder  and  other  unaccustomed  sounds.  It  in- 
habits bushes,  and  rises  every  now  and  then  upon  its  hind 
legs  for  the  sake  of  surveying  its  vicinity.  It  then  stoops 
down  and  darts  under  cover,  from  which  custom  it  has  no 
doubt  obtained  the  name  of  duicker,  or  the  stooper.  The 
gMeyei  {A.  ■pygmaa)  consists  of  two  well-marked  varieties, 
if  two  distinct  species  have  not  been  confounded  under  a 
single  name.  At  present  we  shall  allude  only  to  the 
smaller,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  diminutive  size.  A 
female  in  Bullock's  Museum  scarcely  exceeded  the  general 
dimensions  of  a  Norway  rat,  and  the  legs  were  no  thicker 
than  a  goose's  quill.  The  gueveis  are  brought  from  the 
coast  of  Guinea,  and  are  sometimes  observed  to  occur  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

One  of  the  largest  of  the  African  antelopes  is  the  bubale 
{A.  bubalis  of  Pallas),  equal  in  size  to  a  stag.  It  congre- 
gates in  troops,  among  which  frequent  and  sometimes  fatal 
combats  take  place.  This  species  was  well  known  to  the 
ancients,  and  is  represented  among  the  hieroglyphical 
figures  of  the  temples  of  Upper  Egypt.  It  inhabits  Barbary 
and  the  Great  Desert  of  Northern  Africa. 

We  may  here  mention  the  gnu,  as  an  animal  classed  by 
Sparrman  and  others  among  the  antelopes.  It  assembles 
in  large  herds  among  the  southern,  and  probably  the  central 
deserts  of  Africa.  It  is  not  now  found  nearer  the  Cape 
than  the  great  Karroo  district.  Of  this  animal  there  ap- 
pears to  be  more  species  than  one. 


822  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

The  next  group  which  demands  our  notice  is  the  bovine 
tribe,  including  all  the  larger  kinds  of  homed  cattle.  Of 
these,  the  only  species  peculiar  to  Africa  is  the  Bos  caffer, 
or  Cape  buffalo,  the  qu'araho  of  the  Hottentots,  a  fierce  and 
vindictive  animal  of  great  strength.  This  species  is  cha- 
racterized by  the  dark  rufous  colour  of  its  horns,  which 
spread  horizontally  over  the  summit  of  the  head,  with  their 
beams  bent  down  laterally,  and  the  points  turned  up. 
They  are  from  eight  to  ten  inches  broad  at  the  base,  and 
divided  only  by  a  slight  groove,  extremely  ponderous,  cellu- 
lar near  the  root,  and  five  feet  long,  measured  from  tip  to 
tip  along  the  curves.  The  hide  is  black  and  almost  naked, 
especially  in  old  animals.  This  buffalo  lives  in  herds,  or 
small  families,  in  the  brushwood  and  open  forests  of  Caf^ 
fraria.  According  to  Sparrman,  he  is  not  content  with 
simply  killing  the  person  whom  he  attacks,  but  he  stands 
over  him  for  some  time  in  order  to  trample  him  with  his 
hoofs  and  heels,  at  the  same  time  crushing  him  with  his 
knees,  and  tearing  to  pieces  and  mangling  his  whole  body, 
and  finally  stripping  off  the  skin  with  his  tongue.  The 
surest  way  to  escape  is,  if  possible,  to  ride  up  a  hill,  as  the 
great  bulk  of  the  buffak)'s  body,  like  that  of  the  elephant,  is 
a  weight  sufficient  to  prevent  his  vying  with  the  slender 
and  fine-limbed  horse  in  swiftness.  It  is  said,  however, 
that  in  going  down  hill,  this  formidable  animal  gets  on 
much  faster  than  the  horse. 


The  goat  and  sheep  tribe,  so  valuable,  especially  the  lat- 
ter, to  the  human  race,  present  respectively  a  species  pecu  ■ 
liar  to  the  continent  of  Africa.  The  Egjrptian  goat,  by 
some  however  regarded  as  nothing  more  than  a  variety  of 
the  domestic  breed,  is  distinguished  by  the  gr«at  convexity 
of  its  facial  line,  and  a  depression  between  the  face  and  the 
forehead.  The  lower  jaw  projects  beyond  the  upper  ;  the 
ears  are  long  and  flat,  and  the  horns  are  either  very  small, 
and  arched  slightly  backwards,  or  are  entirely  wanting. 
The  female  scarcely  differs  from  the  male  in  external  ap- 
pearance, with  the  exception  of  the  straighter  outline  of 
the  face.  It  inhabits  Upper  Egypt.  The  other  animal 
above  alluded  to  is  called  the  bearded  sheep  (Ovis  tragela 
phus).  It  inhabits  the  desert  steeps  of  Barbary  and  th« 
mountainous  portions  of  Egypt. 


BIRDS.  323 

We  have  now  enumerated,  with  occasion^  brief  descrip- 
tions and  interspersed  notices  of  their  history  and  habits, 
the  greater  proportion  of  the  more  remaikable  quadrupeds 
of  Africa.  To  extend  the  hst  would  have  been  both  easy 
and  agreeable  ;  but  we  trust  that  the  preceding  sketch  will 
suffice  to  exhibit  the  prevailing  and  peculiar  features  of 
this  branch  of  African  zoology,  even  though  our  confined 
limits  should  have  excluded  many  minor  details,  not  in 
themselves  devoid  of  interest,  though  unessential  to  our 
present  undertaking.  The  great  preponderance  of  the 
antelope  tribe,  the  existence  of  the  giraffe  and  the  hippopo- 
tamus, and  the  numerous  troops  of  equine  animals,  such  as 
the  zebra  and  the  quagga,  may  be  stated  as  forming  the 
principal  zoological  characters  of  this  extensive  continent. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Natural  History  of  the  Birds  of  Africa, 

We  shall  next  take  a  rapid  survey  of  some  other  depart- 
ments of  the  natural  history  of  Africa ;  and  continuing,  as 
we  have  commenced,  with  a  certain  degree  of  systematic 
arrangement,  the  second  great  class  which  attracts  the 
attention  of  the  traveller  is  that  of  birds. 

The  arid  and  wide-spread  plains  which  compose  so  large 
a  portion  of  this  continent,  are  unfavourable  to  the  existence 
and  multiplication  of  the  feathered  race.  Yet  the  more 
umbrageous  banks  of  rivers,  the  extensive  forests  which 
here  and  there  prevail  to  check  the  drifting  of  the  desert- 
sand,  and  those  green  and  grateful  oases  which  towards 
evening  cast  their  far  shadows  across  a  waterless  land, 
harbour  in  their  cool  recesses  many  a  gorgeous  form  of  fea- 
thered life.  Nor  can  we  suppose  that  the  mountain-summits, 
and  those  Sierras  which  occasionally  interrupt  the  horizontal 
view  of  the  bleached  wilderness,  are  uninhabited  by  birds  of 
prey,  eagle-eyed  and  swift  of  wing,  there  perched  securely 
amid  their  rocky  fortresses,  but  ever  ready  to  descend  with 
eager  cry,  when  the  blast  of  the  simoom  overwhelms  the 


324  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

exhausted  caravan,  or  the  weary  camel  "ship  of  the 
desert"  is  seen  to  stoop  its  mast-like  neck,  and  the  glassy 
hue  of  death  sufiuses  its  gentle  eye,  not  from  the  turbulence, 
but  the  want  of  waves.  And  if,  as  has  been  supposed, 
some  of  the  great  African  rivers  empty  their  translucent 
streams  into  an  interior  and  sea-like  lake,  many  an  un- 
known but  beautiful  aquatic  bird  must  haunt  its  mysterious 
and  long-sought-for  shores,  and  revel  in  the  crystal  depths 
of  those  delusive  waters  which  have  already  led  on  to  death 
so  many  of  our  brave  and  devoted  countrymen.  To  these, 
however,  so  long  as  heroic  enterprise  is  valued,  they  will 
likewise  prove  the  waters  of  immortality,  though,  to  their 
surviving  and  deploring  friends,  bitter  as  the  fountain  of 
Marah.* 

If  the  multiplicity  of  species,  even  in  the  class  of  quad- 
rupeds, be  found  an  insuperable  obstacle  to  a  detailed  ac- 
count in  such  a  publication  as  the  present,  far  more  must 
we  curtail  our  remarks  when  treating  of  the  feathered  race, 
the  number  of  which,  not  unfamiliar  to  the  ornithologist, 
does  probably  not  fall  far  short  of  6000  species.  Let  us 
commence  with  the  carnivorous  tribes. 

Several  species  of  vulture  occur  in  Africa,  where,  as  in 
other  countries,  they  follow  troops  of  armed  men, 

"  Sagacious  of  their  quarry  from  afar," 

in  the  hope  of  ere  long  preying  on  their  slaughtered  bodies. 
It  is,  however,  by  the  sense  of  sight,  and  not  by  that  of 
smell,  that  these  birds  so  quickly  discover  and  assemble 
round  their  victims  on  the  battle-field. 

The  eared  vulture  {Poricou  of  Le  Vaillant)  is  a  gregarious 
species  which  inhabits  the  southern  parts  of  Africa.  Their 
nests  are  placed  very  near  each  other,  and  the  birds  are  seen 
sittmg  in  vast  numbers  about  the  caverns  of  the  rocky  moun- 
tains where  they  breed. 

A  doubtful  species  called  the  armed  vulture,  is  mentioned 

*  The  wTiter  of  these  notices  dwelt  at  one  time,  during  his  boyhood. 
Tor  many  months  in  the  family,  and  constant  companionship  of  the  lata 
lamented  Major  Laing,  and  was  in  habits  either  of  personal  intimacy  or 
correspondence  with  the  unfortunate  Bowdich,  Gudney,  Clapperton,  anJ 
the  younger  Park,  who  so  lately  perished  following  his  father's  footslep* 


BIRDS.  325 

by  Browne  in  his  African  Travels,  and  is  said  to  be  ex- 
tremely frequent  in  the  country  of  Darfur,  where  it  flies 
about  in  thousands. 

The  African  snake-eater  (Falco  serpentariusy  Linn.)  is 
usually  placed  between  the  vultures  and  hawks.  It  is  a  long- 
legged  species,  of  peculiar  aspect,  resembling  in  some  re- 
spects rather  a  wader  than  a  bird  of  prey.  It  inhabits  dry 
open  plains  in  the  lower  parts  of  Southern  Africa,  and  feeds 
on  reptiles.  Le  Vaillant  found  in  the  craw  of  a  single  bird 
twenty-one  young  tortoises,  three  snakes,  and  eleven  lizards, 
and,  besides  these,  there  was  a  large  ball  in  the  stomach 
formed  entirely  of  the  scales  of  tortoises,  the  vertebrae  of 
snakes  and  lizards,  the  legs  of  locusts,  and  the  wing-cases 
of  coleopterous  insects. 

Of  more  noble  habits  are  the  eagles,  hawks,  and  other 
birds  of  prey,  which,  for  the  most  part,  disdaining  the  cor- 
rupting carcasses,  whether  of  man  or  beast,  overcome  by 
speed  of  wing,  and  pounce  with  their  talons  on  all  such 
living  creatures  as  they  are  able  to  subdue. 

Among  the  eagles  of  Africa  may  be  mentioned  the  grif- 
fard  eagle  (Fa/co  armiger),  native  to  the  country  of  the  Na- 
maquas,  and  the  imperial  eagle  (F.  imperialis  of  Temm.) 
described  by  Savigny  in  the  splendid  French  work  on  Egypt. 
This  latter  species  also  inhabits  the  mountains  of  the  south- 
em  parts  of  Europe. 

Of  the  numerous  hawks,  or  smaller  species  of  the  falcon 
tribe  which  inhabit  this  continent,  we  shall  mention  in  the 
first  place,  the  chanting  falcon  (F.  musicus,  Daudin).  We 
must  not  suppose,  from  the  name  of  this  species,  that  its 
notes  in  any  way  resemble  the  harmonious  tones  of  the 
nightingale,  or  those  of  even  our  less  celebrated  songsters. 
Its  voice  is  merely  a  little  clearer  than  usual,  although  it 
seems  impressed  with  a  high  idea  of  its  own  powers.  It 
will  sit  for  half  a  day  perched  upon  the  summit  of  a  tall 
tree,  uttering  incessant  cries,  which  the  darkness  of  the 
night  is  sometimes  insufficient  to  terminate.  It  builds  in 
woods  in  the  interior  of  Caffraria,  and  commits  great  havoc 
among  quails  and  partridges.  The  crested  African  falcon 
(F.  galericulatus)  resembles  the  peregrine  falcon  of  Europe. 
It  dwells  by  the  seashore  and  the  borders  of  lakes,  and  feeds 
on  fish,  crabs,  and  the  testaceous  tribes.  The  ranivorus,  or 
frog-eating  falcon  (F.  ranivorus)  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  ot 
£e 


826  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

Good  Hope.  It  appears  to  be  allied  to  the  moor-buzzard« 
in  its  manners.  It  builds  its  nest  among  rushes,  with  the 
stalks  of  the  leaves  of  water-plants,  and  feeds  chiefly  on 
frogs  and  young  waterfowl. 

The  next  family  of  carnivorous  birds  are  the  nocturnal 
tribes  called  owls,  which  may  be  said  to  bear  the  same  re- 
lation to  the  more  active  and  elegant  hawks  that  moths  do 
to  butterflies.  Africa  is  by  no  means  rich  in  owls,  at  least 
very  few  have  attracted  the  notice  of  travellers  in  that 
country.  We  shall  here  mention  only  the  very  beautiful 
falconian  owl  of  Latham  {Strix  Africana)y  which  appears 
during  the  short-Uved  twilight,  and  moves  with  rapid  flight. 

We  may  place,  as  intermediate  between  the  regular  birds 
of  prey  and  the  passerine  species,  those  called  butcher-birds, 
of  which  Africa  produces  a  great  variety  of  kinds.  The 
habits  of  the  collared  shrike  {Lanius  coUaris)  are  described 
by  Le  Vaillant.  When  it  sees  a  locust,  a  mantis,  or  a  small 
bird,  it  springs  upon  it  and  immediately  carries  it  off,  in  or- 
der to  impale  it  on  a  thorn,  which  it  does  with  great  dexte- 
rity, always  passing  the  thorn  through  the  head  of  its  vic- 
tim. Every  animal  which  it  seizes  is  subjected  to  the  same 
fate  ;  and  it  thus  continues  all  day  long  its  murderous  ca- 
reer, apparently  instigated  rather  by  the  love  of  mischief 
than  the  desire  of  food.  Its  throne  of  tyranny  is  usually 
a  dry  and  elevated  branch  of  a  tree,  from  which  it  pounces 
on  all  intruders,  driving  oflf  the  stronger  and  more  trouble- 
some, and  impaling  the  inexperienced  alive.  When  hun- 
gry, it  visits  its  shambles,  and  helps  itself  to  a  savoury 
meal.  The  Hottentots  assured  Le  Vaillant  that  it  does  not 
love  fresh  food,  and  therefore  leaves  its  prey  on  the  gib- 
bet till  it  becomes  putrescent.  But  beneath  the  scorching 
6un  of  Africa  this  process  of  decomposition  sometimes  does 
not  take  place,  from  the  rapid  exhalation  of  the  animal 
fluids  in  a  warm  and  arid  atmosphere  ;  and,  consequently, 
whatever  spiny  shrub  may  have  been  chosen  by  the  butcher- 
bird as  the  place  of  execution,  is  frequently  found  covered 
not  with  sweet-smelling  and  many-coloured  blossoms,  but 
with  the  dried  carcasses  of  singing-birds,  and  the  bodies  of 
locusts  and  other  insects  of  the  larger  size.  This  unamia- 
blf  and  irascible  bird  is  figured  and  described  in  the  fourth 


BIRDS.  327 

part  (plate  52)  of  the  valuable  "  Illustrations  of  Ornitho- 
logy," so  well  conducted  by  Sir  William  Jardine,  Bart.,  and 
Mr.  Selby.  Several  species  of  shrike  likewise  occur  in  the 
island  of  Madagascar. 

With  species  pertaining  to  the  beautiful  and  melodious 
family  of  the  thrushes,  Africa  is  by  no  means  abundantly  sup- 
plied. The  Cape  thrush  (genus  Brachypus,  Swainson)  is 
found,  as  its  name  imports,  in  Southern  Africa,  and  another 
species  (T.  Phcznicopterics,  Temm.)  occurs  in  Senegal.  It* 
plumage  is  of  a  fine  bronzed  black,  glossed  with  blue  and  violet 
the  wings  and  tail  are  dull  black,  with  all  the  feathers  edged  witb 
metallic  green  ;  the  wing-coverts  are  bright  red  ;  the  beak  and 
legs  are  black.  If,  however,  we  were  to  regard  the  genus 
as  formerly  constituted,  we  should  here  name  some  of  the 
most  splendid  of  the  feathered  race  ;  for  example,  the  shin- 
ing thrush,  and  that  other  species  called  the  blue  and  green 
daw  by  Edwards,  both  of  which  probably  belong  to  the 
genus  Lamprotornis,  the  greater  proportion  of  which  seems 
peculiar  to  Africa.  The  rose-coloured  ouzel,  one  of  the 
rarest  and  most  beautiful  of  British  birds,  is  also  found  in 
Africa,  where  its  love  of  locusts  is  more  amply  gratified 
than  we  hope  it  will  ever  be  in  this  cold  and  cloudy  clime. 

Passing  over  the  extensive  family  of  the  sylviadcz^  which 
includes  the  finest  song-birds  of  temperate  countries,  we 
shall  here  present  the  remark  that  the  feathered  tribes 
of  tropical  and  other  sultry  regions  are  in  general  more 
distinguished  for  their  gorgeous  plumage  than  the  harmony 
or  varied  intonation  of  their  voices.  It  is  chiefly  among  the 
obscure  and  monotonously-plumed  species  that  we  find  the 
most  accomplished  warblers,  such  as  the  sombre  nightin- 
gale, which  in  the  leafy  arbours  of  France  and  England 
makes  such  rich  amends  for  his  unadorned  and  quaker-like 
attire  : 

"The  wakeful  bird 
Sings  darkling,  and,  in  shadiest  covert  hid, 
Tunes  her*  nocturnal  notes." 

Among  the  FringillidcB  we  may  notice  the  buntings,  of 
which  the  Whidah-bird,  or  long-tailed  bunting  (genus  Vidua, 

*  We  are  not  aware  that  the  female  nightingale  sings, — hut  the  words 
•f  Milton  are  sacred. 


328  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

Cuvier),  is  remarkable  for  the  changes  which  the  male  bird 
assumes  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  and  which,  from  the 
dropping  away  of  the  lengthened  feathers  of  the  tail,  and 
the  alteration  in  the  colours  of  various  parts  of  the  plumage, 
produce  a  total  difference  in  the  appearance  of  that  sex. 
Angola  is  its  native  country.  There  is  a  nearly-allied  spe- 
cies from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  Greeks  applied  the  name  KoXotos  to  a  small  species 
of  crow,  probably  the  jackdaw.  The  same  term  has  been 
used  in  later  times  to  designate  a  genus  of  birds  found  in 
Africa,  though  not  peculiar  to  that  continent, — the  genua 
Colius.  These  birds,  though  the  structure  of  their  feet 
offers  no  analogous  formation,  climb  trees  like  parakeets, 
dwell  in  large  troops,  build  together  numerous  nests  on  the 
same  bushes,  and  are  sometimes  found  sleeping  together  in 
masses,  suspended  by  the  feet,  with  their  heads  downwards 
They  live  on  fruits,  and  occur  both  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  and  in  Senegal. 

Of  the  genus  Bupha^a,  peculiar  to  Africa,  there  are  only 
two  species,  called  the  African  and  the  red-billed  beef, 
eaters.  The  former  is  a  singular  bird,  both  in  its  aspect 
and  manners.  It  is  frequent  in  Senegal,  and  its  food  con- 
sists of  the  larvae  of  oestri  or  gadflies,  which  it  picks  from 
beneath  the  skin  of  the  larger  cattle.  Le  Vaillant  also  ob- 
served it  in  the  country  of  the  Namaquas,  and  he  states 
that  it  is  usually  seen  in  flocks  of  six  or  eight  together. 

Several  species  of  roller  inhabit  the  African  continent. 
The  European  roller,  commonly  so  called  {Cor ados  gar- 
Tula),  is  in  fact  an  African  species,  although  it  sometimes 
beautifies  the  woods  of  more  northern  countries  with  its 
azure  hues.  Other  species  are  found  in  the  Angolese  and 
Abyssinian  territories. 

Of  the  goat-sucker  tribe,  genetically  distributed  over 
almost  every  country  of  the  world,  Africa  also  possesses  a 
few  species,  of  which  one  of  great  beauty  was  lately  dis- 
covered by  Riippell,  the  Frankfort  traveller,  in  Nubia  and 
Sennaar.     It  is  the  Caprimulgus  eximius  of  M.  Temminck. 

The  last-named  genus  conducts  naturally  to  the  swallow 
tribe,  of  which  Africa,  if  not  the  native  country,  is  at  least 
supposed  to  share  with  us  the  society  for  one-half  the  year. 
Besides  its  migratory  species,  it  possesses  several  of  a  less 
restless  character,  which  dwell  there  throughout  tho  entira 


BIRDS.  329 

season,  and  remain  for  ever  in  ignorance  of  those  cool  and 
refreshing  waters  into  which  our  own  delightful  visitants 
are  so  often  seen  to  dip  their  slender  wings. 

The  hoopoes  resemble  the  swallows  in  their  migratory 
movements,  but  they  are  classed  with  the  Tenuirostres,  on 
account  of  their  slender  bills.  The  common  hoopoe,  though 
an  African  bird,  has  been  several  times  shot  in  Britain ; 
and  the  marchcur  larguip  of  Lc  Vaillant  appears  to  belong 
to  the  same  genus,  and  inhabits  the  country  of  the  Caffres. 

Nearly  united  to  the  last-named  species  are  the  prome- 
rops,  a  limited  but  magnificent  group,  different  species  of 
which  are  found  in  Africa,  India,  and  New-Guinea.  The 
most  remarkable  of  the  African  kinds  is  the  red-billed 
promerops  (P.  erythrarhynchus),  probabN  first  described  by 
Dr.  Latham,  from  a  specimen  in  the  collection  of  the 
Dutchess  of  Portland.  Its  length,  including  the  tail,  is  15 
inches.  The  general  colour  is  black,  glossed  with  red, 
violet,  and  golden-green ;  the  red  predominates  on  the 
head,  the  golden-green  on  the  wing-coverts,  and  the  violet 
on  the  back  and  tail.  All  the  tail-feathers,  except  the  two 
in  the  centre,  are  marked  near  the  tip  by  an  oval  white  spot 
on  each  side  the  web ;  and  several  of  the  quill  feathers  of 
the  wings  have  also  a  white  spot  on  their  inner  webs,  near 
the  tip.  The  bill  is  long,  slender,  moderately  curved,  and 
of  a  red  or  orange  colour.     The  legs  are  also  red. 

Although  Africa  cannot  boast  of  possessing  any  of  those 
jewels  of  ornithology,  the  fairy  humming-birds,  which  dart 
like  sunbeams  among  the  flowery  parterres  of  the  western 
world, — 

"  And  on  their  restless  fronts 
Bear  stars,  illumination  of  all  gems;" 

yet  the  eye  of  the  naturalist  who  has  studied  the  unsur- 
passed splendour  of  the  soui-mangas,  or  sugar-eaters,  will 
scarcely  desiderate  any  other  beauty.  These  birds,  belong- 
ing to  the  genus  Cynniris  of  Baron  Cuvier,  were  formerly 
classed  with  the  creepers.  They  are  distinguished  by  their 
long  and  slender  bills,  the  mandibles  of  which  are  finely 
toothed  or  serrated  on  their  edges  ;  and  their  tongues,  which 
are  capable  of  considerable  extension,  are  terminated  by  a 
small  fork.  Several  of  the  species  occur  in  the  Indian 
archipelago,  but  the  greater*"  proportion  are  of  African 
Ee2 


330  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA 

origin,  and  may  be  said  to  form  the  most  signal  and  ad- 
mired feature  in  the  ornithology  of  that  country. 

The  superb  creeper  is  an  elegant  bird,  described  and 
figured  in  the  magnificent  work  of  M.  Vieillot.  Its  length 
is  six  inches  :  the  crown  of  the  head,  upper  part  of  the 
neck,  smaller  wing-coverts,  back,  and  rump,  are  bright 
greenish-gold  ;  the  throat  is  violet-blue,  glossed  with  gold  ; 
across  the  upper  part  of  the  breast  runs  a  bar  of  bright 
gilded-yellow,  beneath  which  the  whole  upper  parts  are 
deep-brownish  crimson ;  the  wings  and  tail  are  blackish- 
brown  ;  the  legs  are  also  brown,  and  the  bill  is  black. 
This  species  was  discovered  in  Malimba,  by  M.  Perrien, 
and  is  one  of  the  rarest  as  well  as  most  beautiful  of  the 
genus. 

Another  highly-adorned  species,  such  as 

"Limuers  love  to  paint,  and  ladies  to  look  upon," 

is  called,  far  excellence,  the  African  creeper.  It  is  a  native 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  is  found  in  woody  situa- 
tions. In  addition  to  a  splendid  plumage,  it  is  highly  ad- 
mired for  its  musical  powers,  and  its  song  is  by  some 
esteemed  equal  to  that  of  the  nightingale. 

The  spotted-breasted  creeper  ( C.  maculata)  dwells  in  the 
forests  of  Malimba,  and  frequently  approaches  the  habita- 
tions of  the  natives,  allured  by  the  flowers  of  the  cytisus 
cajan,  commonly  called  the  Congo  pea,  which,  according  to 
Dr.  Shaw  is  much  cultivated  by  the  negroes.  The  violet- 
headed  creeper  (C  violacea)  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  It  likewise  dwells  in  woods,  and  is  said  to  build  a 
nest  of  singularly  elegant  and  ingenious  structure.  Our  re- 
stricted limits  will  not  admit  of  our  expatiating  on  this  de- 
lightful tribe. 

The  next  African  genus  which  claims  our  attention  is 
Meraps,  which  includes  the  bee-eaters,  a  group  not  more 
remarkable  for  beauty  of  colour  than  gracefulness  of  form. 
These  birds  feed  on  insects,  and  build  their  nests  in  the 
holes  of  banks.  The  common  bee-eater  {Merops  apiastcr)y 
notwithstanding  its  designation,  is  one  of  the  rarest  of  Eu- 
ropean birds,  and  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  beautiful.  It 
occurs  in  Africa,  and  spreads  from  thence  into  Greece  and 
the  Mediterranean  Archipelago.     Many  other  species  of 


BIRDS.  331 

bee-eater  inhabit  this  continent ;  but  for  these  we  must 
refer  the  reader  to  Le  Vaillant  and  other  writers. 

Amid  the  infinitely  varied  forms  and  colours  which  cha- 
racterize and  adorn  the  feathered  race,  we  know  of  none 
more  worthy  of  admiration  than  those  exhibited  by  the 
great  family  of  the  kingfishers.  The  size  and  length  of  the 
bill  are  indeed  somewhat  disproportioned  to  the  dimensions 
of  the  body ;  but  the  shininjj  silky  lustre  of  the  plumage, 
and  the  finely  varied  hues  of  the  most  brilliant  green  and 
blue,  contrasted  with  ditfe rent  shades  of  orange,  black,  and 
brown,  render  this  genus  one  of  the  most  showy  and  at- 
tractive within  the  range  of  the  ornithological  system. 
The  continent  which  forms  the  subject  of  our  present  dis- 
quisition is  rich  in  the  genus.  We  shall  at  present,  how- 
ever, mention  only  the  Smyrna  kingfisher  {A.  SmyV' 
nensis),  which,  when  in  perfect  plumage,  is  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  of  the  feathered  race. — "  The  lucid  blue  of  the 
wings,"  says  Dr.  Shaw,  "  scarcely  yielding  in  lustre  to 
those  of  the  splendid  butterfly  called  Papilio  Menelaus." 
Its  colours  seem  to  vary  in  different  individuals.  Several 
fine  species  of  this  extensive  genus  occur  in  the  island  of 
Madagascar. 

Among  the  more  remarkable  of  the  African  birds  we 
must  not  omit  to  mention  the  species  of  the  genus  Buceros, 
commonly  called  hornbills.  These  occur  also  in  Celebes 
and  the  Philippine  Islands,  but  many  species  are  peculiar 
to  Africa.  The  hornbills  may  be  said  to  occupy  the  same 
station  in  the  old  world  as  the  toucans  do  in  the  new. 
Both  are  alike  distinguished  by  the  enormous  size  of  their 
bills,  and  by  a  mixture  in  their  dispositions  of  the  carni- 
vorous with  the  frugivorous  propensities.  The  African 
hornbill  (B.  Africanus)  is  entirely  black,  and  nearly  as  large 
as  a  turkey.  The  only  other  species  of  this  singular  genus 
which  we  shall  mention,  is  the  crowned  hornbill  (J5.  corO' 
natus).  Compared  with  the  preceding  it  is  a  very  small 
bird,  scarcely  equalling  the  dimensions  of  a  magpie.  Le 
Vaillant  saw  a  flock  of  more  than  five  hundred  of  these 
birds  assembled  in  company  with  crows  and  vultures,  and 
preying  on  the  remains  of  slaughtered  elephants.  The 
crowned  hornbill  is  figured  by  Mr.  Swainson  in  the  third 
volume  of  his  beautiful  illustrations. 

We  shall  now  take  a  brief  view  of  the  scansorial  or 


332  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

climbing  birds  of  Africa.  Several  woodpeckers  inhabit  thi« 
contiiient.  The  double-bearded  woodpecker  {Picus  dio- 
phrys)  inhabits  Southern  Africa ;  ano  the  crested  wood- 
pecker (P.  minuius,  Temm.)  is  found  in  Senegal.  The 
gold-shafted  woodpecker  (now  placed  in  the  genus  Colaptes) 
is  likewise  an  African  species. 

Many  kinds  of  cuckoo  occur  in  Africa.  The  old  Lin- 
naean  genus  Cuculus  has  been  greatly  subdivided  by  modem 
writers.  The  group  included  under  the  genus  Centrojm* 
are  remarkable  for  the  long  claw  with  which  the  inner  hind 
toe  is  furnished.  They  are  found  in  India,  Africa,  and  the 
island  of  Java.  The  didric  or  shining  cuckoo  {Cuculus 
auratus)  is  probably  the  most  beautiful  of  the  tribe.  The 
upper  parts  of  the  plumage  are  of  a  rich  golden-green ;  on 
the  head  are  five  stripes  of  white,  two  above  the  eyes,  like 
eyebrows,  passing  behind  ;  two  more,  shorter  and  narrower, 
beneath  the  eyes  ;  and  one  on  the  middle  of  the  forehead. 
The  wing  and  tail  coverts,  and  the  secondary  quills  are 
tipped  with  white.  Most  of  the  under-parts  are  likewise 
wlute.  This  bird  was  found  by  Le  Vaillant,  inwards  from 
the  Cape,  near  Kok's  Kraal.  He  named  it  didric,  from  its 
continually  uttering  these  syllables  in  various  modulations, 
when  perched  on  the  extremities  of  large  trees. 

While  recording  the  names  of  so  many  species  remark- 
able for  their  lustrous  plumage,  we  must  not  here  omit  to 
mention  others  not  less  notalale  for  their  singular  instincts 
and  modes  of  life.  Among  these  the  indicators  or  honey- 
guides,  by  some  authors  classed  with  the  cuckoos,  are  de- 
serving of  special  notice.  One  species  described  by  Dr. 
Sparrman  is  said  to  attract  the  notice  of  the  Dutch  and 
Hottentots  by  a  shrill  cry  of  cheVi,  cher ;  and  when  it  per- 
ceives itself  observed,  it  flutters  onwards  to  the  hive  of  a 
wild  bee,  in  hopes  of  partaking  of  the  plundered  honey. 
"  I  have  had  frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  this  bird,  and 
have  been  witness  to  the  destruction  of  several  republics 
of  bees,  by  means  of  its  treachery.  I  had,  however,  but 
two  opportunities  of  shooting  it,  which  I  did  to  the  great 
indignation  of  my  Hottentots." 

We  may  here  observe,  that  naturalists  themselves  seem 
occasionally  to  belong  to  that  irritahile  genus,  of  which 
poets  are  said  to  form  the  principal  component  parts, 
though  Sparrman  asserts  that  he  was  a  frequent  eyewit- 


BIRDS.  333 

ness  of  the  curious  instinctive  habits  of  the  honey-guide, 
yet  Le  Vaillant  doubts  if  that  traveller  ever  sav^r  the  bird  at 
all.  He  says  that  the  account  is  merely  a  repetition  of  a 
fable  that  is  known  and  believed  by  credulous  people  at  the 
Cape,  and  that  it  is  false  to  suppose  that  the  bird  seeks  to 
draw  man  after  it  for  the  purpose  of  sharing  the  plundered 
sweets  ;  the  fact  being  that  the  bird  calls  not  the  man,  but 
that  the  man  knows  by  attending  to  the  natural  cry  of  the 
bird  in  search  of  food,  that  he  will  be  sure  ere  long  to  find 
the  stores  of  the  bee.  According  to  Bruce,  the  moroc,  for 
so  this  singular  species  is  sometimes  named,  occurs  in 
Abyssinia ;  but  he  also  throws  discredit  on  Sparrman's 
relation.  We  have  seen,  in  the  preceding  chapter,  that 
Lichtenstein  doubted  the  truth  of  Le  Vaillant's  account  of 
the  camelopard ;  we  now  find  Le  Vaillant  himself  equally 
skeptical  of  the  accuracy  of  the  Swedish  traveller,  and 
joined  therein  by  Bruce,  whose  own  statements  were  at 
one  period  scarcely  credited  at  all.  However,  to  conclude 
a  subject  which  has  already  too  long  detained  us,  we  shall 
■  observe  that  Mr.  Barrow,  a  most  careful  and  accurate  in- 
quirer, though  not  a  professed  zoologist,  confirms  Dr. 
Sparrman's  account,  as  follows : — "  Every  one  in  that 
country  (the  interior  of  the  southern  extremity  of  Africa)  is 
too  well  acquainted  with  the  moroc  to  have  any  doubts  as 
to  the  certainty  either  respecting  the  bird  or  its  information 
of  the  repositories  of  the  bees." 

The  sagacious  and  imitative  family  of  the  parrots  (Psit- 
tacidfje)  is  the  next  to  demand  a  brief  record.  Though  one  of 
the  most  numerous  groups  of  the  feathered  creation,  it  is  by 
no  means  abundant  in  species,  when  considered  merely  in 
reference  to  its  African  relations.  The  gorgeous  maccaws 
are  peculiar  to  South  America,  the  cockatoos  to  New-Hol- 
land and  the  Eastern  Islands,  the  lories  to  the  East  Indies 
and  the  Moluccas  ;  and  the  greater  proportion  of  parrots 
and  parakeets,  commonly  so  called,  are  more  truly  charac- 
teristic of  the  tropical  regions  of  other  countries  than  of 
Africa.  Yet  here  also  this  noisy  and  loquacious  race  are 
not  unknown,  although  the  far-spread  forests  are  its  chosen 
dwelling-places  rather  than  the  barren  sands.  Africa,  how- 
ever, has  also  her  shady  bowers  as  well  as  thirsty  Saharas ; 

"  For  He,  at  whose  command  the  parched  rock 
Was  smitten,  and  poured  forth  a  quenching  stream, 


334  NATT7RAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

Hath  softened  that  obduracy,  and  made 
Unlooked-for  gladness  in  the  desert  place 
To  save  the  perisbing." 

The  Creeks  and  Romans  became  acquainted  with  th€ 
parrot  kind,  in  consequence  of  certain  species  of  these  birds 
having  been  imported  from  the  East  soon  after  Alexander' 
Indian  expedition.  The  Alexandrian  parrot,  especially,  so 
remarkable  for  its  elegant  form  and  docile  disposition,  is 
generally  supposed  to  have  been  brought  to  Europe  about 
that  time  from  the  island  of  Ceylon,  the  ancient  Tabrobane. 
In  the  reign  of  Nero,  the  Romans  introduced  other  specie* 
from  ditferent  quarters  of  Africa.  They  were  highly  prised 
by  that  luxurious  people,  who  lodged  them  in  superb  cages 
of  silver,  ivory,  and  tortoise-shell ;  and  the  price  of  a  parrot 
in  those  days  frequently  exceeded  that  of  a  slave.  Nor  did 
Ovid  think  it  beneath  him  to  write  a  lengthened  elegy  on 
the  death  of  Corinna's  parrot, — a  bird,  which,  in  the  love  it 
bore  its  mistress,  seems  to  have  emulated  that  of  the  dying 
Greek  for  his  country : — 

"  Clamavit  moriens  lingua,  Corinna,  vale !  , 

It  is  only  in  these  degenerate  days  that  the  keeping  ot  a 
cockatoo  is  brought  forward  in  a  court  of  justice  in  proof  of 
an  alienated  or  imbecile  mind.*  We  trust,  that  in  some 
instances,  at  least,  such  inference  may  be  fairly  classed  as 
a  "  non  sequitur." 

One  of  the  earliest  imported  of  the  African  species  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  gray  or  ash-coloured  parrot  {Psit- 
tacus  crithacus),  still  remarkable  for  its  easy  loquacity  and 
general  imitative  powers.  To  this  species  probably  be- 
longed the  individual  mentioned  by  CjeUus  Rhodoginus,  and 
which  belonged  to  Cardinal  Ascanius.  "  I  cannot,"  says 
that  author,  "  omit  an  extraordinary  wonder  seen  in  our 
times.  This  was  a  parrot  at  Rome,  belonging  to  Cardinal 
Ascanius,  who  purchased  it  for  a  hundred  gold  pieces,  and 
which,  in  the  most  articulate  and  uninterrupted  manner, 
recited  the  Apostles'  Creed  as  well  as  the  best  reader  could 
have  done,  and  which,  as  a  most  extraordinary  and  won- 
derful thing,  I  could  not  pass  unnoticed." 

*  See  the  case  of  Dxindonald  versns  Roy,  as  lately  reported  at  length 
Iq  the  Scotch  newspapers. 


BIRDS. 


aaiT 


We  shall  mention  only  two  other  Afr^^an  species  of  this 
tribe,  viz.  the  damask  parrot  (P.  infuscatus),  of  which  an 
interesting  account  is  given  by  Le  Vaillant,  and  the  Guinea 
parrot  (P.  pvUarius),  apparently  figured  on  the  40th  plate 
of  the  second  volume  of  Seba's  Thesaurus. 

That  division  of  the  Linnaean  genus  Bucco  now  called 
Pogo7iias,  is  peculiar  to  Africa.  It  contains  about  six  spe- 
cies, of  which  the  manners  are  little  known.  That  called 
the  Abyssinian  barbican  by  Latham,  was  observed  to  cling 
to  the  branches  of  trees  like  a  woodpecker. 

Of  the  Trogons,  an  extensive  tribe,  of  brilliant  plumage 
but  ungraceful  forms,  the  greater  part  are  proper  to  Asia 
and  America.  We  are  indebted  to  Le  Vaillant  for  the 
figure  and  description  of  an  African  species  discovered  by 
him  in  the  country  of  the  Caffrcs,  and  called  Narina,  which, 
it  seems,  in  the  Hottentot  language  signifies  a  flower.  It 
is  the  Trogan  narhia  of  systematic  writers. 

We  come  now  to  a  limited  tribe,  entirely  peculiar  to 
Africa, — the  plantain-eaters,  genus  Musophaga.  These 
are  large  birds,  elegantly  shaped,  and  richly  coloured. 
The  species  are  few  in  number,  and  their  history  is  still  ob- 
scure. Allied  to  the  preceding  are  the  Touracos,  likewise 
characteristic  of  the  African  continent.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  was  classed  by  Linnaeus  with  the  cuckoos, — the 
Cuculv^  persa  of  that  great  obser\'er.  Le  Vaillant  says  that 
there  are  great  numbers  of  touracos  in  the  country  of  the 
Kottinquas, — that  they  are  very  difficult  to  shoot,  as  they 
perch  only  on  the  summits  of  the  tallest  trees,  and  rarely 
suffer  any  one  to  come  within  gunshot, — but  that  they  are 
easily  caught  alive  by  snares,  baited  with  such  fruits  as  are  in 
season.  He  adds  that  they  arc  excellent  eating.  Another 
species  of  this  genus  which  it  is  delightful  to  look  upon, 
is  the  Pauline  touraco,  Corythaix  Paulina.  It  inhabits 
Southern  Africa.  M.  Vieillot  had  one  alive,  and  he  informs 
us  that  its  manners  were  mild  and  familiar :  it  lived  on 
succulent  fruits,  and  was  fond  of  sugar  ;  its  habits  were 
active,  and  its  voice  sonorous  and  apparently  ventriloqual. 


The  different  tribes  and  genera  belonging  to  the  great 
order  of  gallinaceous  birds  are  the  next  to  claim  our  regard. 
The  sympathies  of  such  of  our  readers  (if  such  there  be)  as 
Bie  regardless  of  that  beauty  of  form  and  splendour  of 


336  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

colour  to  which  we  have  already  so  often  attracted  theif 
attention,  would  probably  yield  more  readily  to  certain  cu- 
linary associations  connected  with  poultry,  turkeys,  phea- 
sants, grouse,  &c.  ;  all  of  which,  and  many  more  equally 
dear  to  the  late  Dr.  Kitchener,  belong  to  the  present  exten- 
sive division  of  our  subject.  It  happens,  however,  that 
cocks  and  hens  are  of  eastern  origin,  that  turkeys  are  nativo 
only  to  America, — that  pheasants  come  from  the  banks  of 
the  Phasis, — and  that  grouse  are  peculiar  to  northern 
countries.  We  must  therefore,  in  the  mean  time,  be  con- 
tented with  a  few  pigeons. 

The  genus  Columba  is  widely  diffused  over  both  the  tem- 
perate and  tropical  regions  of  the  earth.  Its  species  abound 
in  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and  America ;  and,  even  in  the 
forests  of  the  far-distant  islands  of  the  Southern  Ocean, 
their  radiant  plumage 

•'Fills  many  a  damp  obscure  recess 
With  lustre  of  a  saintly  show." 

One  of  the  most  magnificent  of  the  tribe  is  the  hackled 
pigeon  (C.  Francia).  It  is  distinguished  from  all  others 
by  the  irregular  form  of  the  feathers  on  the  head,  neck,  and 
breast,  which  are  long  and  narrow,  and  terminate  in  a 
shining  appendage  resembling  in  consistence,  though  not 
in  colour,  that  with  which  the  wing-feathers  of  the  Bohe- 
mian chatterer  are  furnished.  The  species  inhabits  Southern 
Africa  and  the  island  of  Madagascar.  A  still  more  singular 
bird  is  the  parabolic  pigeon  (C.  arquatrix).  It  was  dis- 
covered by  Le  Vaillant,  and  is  figured  in  his  splendid 
work  on  the  birds  of  Africa.  The  flight  of  this  species  is 
very  remarkable.  It  never  proceeds  in  a  straight  line,  but 
on  commencing  its  route  it  describes  a  parabola,  and  con- 
tinues forming  a  series  of  arcs  during  the  whole  time,  fre- 
quently uttering  a  peculiar  cry.  It  inhabits  the  forests  of 
Anteniquois,  and  is  a  great  enemy  to  the  white  eagle. 

The  Guinea  fowls,  or  pintados,  are  entirely  peculiar  to 
Africa  as  native  species,  though  they  now  breed  freely  as 
domestic  birds  both  in  Europe  and  America.  There  are 
three  kinds  of  this  bird  known  to  naturalists,  viz.  the  Guinea 
pintado  (Numida  meleagris),  common  in  our  poultry-yards ; 
the  mitred  pintado  (N.  mitrata) ;  and  the  crested  pintado 
(N.  cristata). 


wiRDS.  337 

Quails  arc  remarkable  for  a  certain  compactness  of  form 
and  neatness  of  plumage,  which,  in  the  absence  of  brilliant 
colouring,  produces  a  highly  pleasing  effect.  In  regard  to 
the  African  species,  we  shall  content  ourselves  with  naming 
the  Madagascar  quail  {Coturnix  perlata),  which  is  about 
twice  the  size  of  our  British  visitant.  It  is  also  distin- 
guished from  the  others  by  the  strength  of  its  beak. 

Very  few  partridges,  properly  so  called,  occur  in  this 
sandy  continent.  The  Barbary  partridge  {Perdrix  petrosa) 
is  abundant  along  the  African  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 
It  also  occurs  in  Teneriffe,  and  along  the  western  coast  as 
far  as  Senegal.  Of  the  genera  Pterocles,  FrancoUnus,  and 
Turnix,  there  are  likewise  representatives  in  this  country. 
Cranch's  Francolin  (F.  Cranchii)  was  discovered  by  the 
indefatigable  and  unfortunate  collector  whose  name  it  bears, 
during  the  ill-fated  expedition  to  explore  the  source  of  the 
Congo  under  Captain  Tuckey.  It  is  described  by  Dr. 
Leach  in  the  appendix  to  the  published  narrative  of  that 
disastrous  voyage. 

Of  the  African  grouse,  we  may  say,  as  Horrebow  says,  in 
his  brief  chapter  "  On  the  Rats  of  Iceland," — "  There  are 
no  rats  in  Iceland ;"  so  neither  are  there  any  grouse  in 
Africa. 

A  few  lines  may  now  be  devoted  to  a  species  vhich  not 
only  forms  the  most  remarkable  character  in  the  ornitho- 
logy of  Africa,  to  which  country  it  is  now  believed  to  be 
entirely  peculiar,  but  presents  in  itself  the  most  singular 
example  of  the  feathered  race.  Tliis  extraordinary  bird  is 
the  ostrich,  the  tallest  of  its  class,  and  probably  the  swiftest 
of  all  running  creatures.  It  is  distinguished  from  every 
other  bird  by  having  only  two  toes  on  each  foot.  It  in- 
habits the  open  and  sandy  plains  of  a  great  extent  of 
Africa,  from  Barbary  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ;  and 
being  consequently  native  to  one  of  the  most  anciently- 
peopled  countries  of  the  earth,  it  has  excited  the  attention 
of  mankind  from  the  remotest  periods  of  antiqtity.  It  is 
frequently  mentioned  in  the  Book  of  Job,  and  in  other  por- 
tions of  the  Old  Testament.  Herodotus,  among  the  early 
Greek  writers,  was  acquainted  with  its  history  and  appear- 
ance ;  and  ia  after-times  it  was  not  only  frequently  ex- 
Jbited  by  the  Romans  in  their  games,  but  the  brains  of 
Ff 


338  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

hundreds  at  a  time  were  scooped  out,  and  served  up  as  a 
choice  delicacy  on  the  luxurious  table  of  Heliogabalus. 

To  exemplify  the  great  strength  and  swiftness  of  thii 
gigantic  biped,  we  shall  transcribe  the  following  circum- 
stance, narrated  by  Adanson,  as  having  taken  place  at 
Podor,  a  French  factory  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river 
Niger  : — "  Two  ostriches  which  had  been  about  two  years 
in  the  factory,  and,  although  young,  were  nearly  of  their 
full  size,  were  so  tame  that  two  little  blacks  mounted  both 
together  on  the  back  of  the  largest :  no  sooner  did  he  feel 
their  weight,  than  he  began  to  run  as  fast  as  possible,  and 
carried  them  several  times  round  the  village,  as  it  was  im- 
possible to  stop  him  otherwise  than  by  obstructing  the 
passage.  This  sight  pleased  me  so  much  that  I  ordered  it 
to  be  repeated ;  and,  to  try  their  strength,  directed  a  full- 
grown  negro  to  mount  the  smallest,  and  two  others  the 
largest.  This  burden  did  not  seem  at  all  disproportioned 
to  their  strength.  At  first  they  went  at  a  tolerably  sharp 
trot,  but  when  they  became  heated  a  little,  they  expanded 
their  wings  as  though  to  catch  the  wind,  and  moved  with 
such  fleetness  that  they  scarcely  seemed  to  touch  the  ground. 
Most  people  have,  one  time  or  other,  seen  a  partridge  run, 
and  consequently  must  know  that  there  is  no  man  whatever 
able  to  keep  up  with  it ;  and  it  is  easy  to  imagine  that  if 
this  bird  had  a  longer  step,  its  speed  would  be  considerably 
augmented.  The  ostrich  moves  like  the  partridge,  with 
this  advantage  ;  and  I  am  satisfied  that  those  I  am  speak- 
ing of  would  have  distanced  the  fleetest  race-horses  that 
were  ever  bred  in  England :  it  is  true  they  would  not  hold 
out  so  long  as  a  horse,  but  they  would  undoubtedly  be  able 
to  go  over  the  space  in  less  time.  I  have  frequently  beheld 
this  sight,  which  is  capable  of  giving  one  an  idea  of  the  pro- 
digious strength  of  an  ostrich,  and  of  showing  what  use  it 
might  be  of,  had  we  but  the  method  of  breaking  and  ma- 
naging it  as  we  do  a  horse." 

Greatly  inferior  in  size,  but  not  very  dissimilar  in  form, 
axe  the  buHard  tribe,  of  which  the  most  recently  discovered 
African  species  is  designated  Otis  Denhami  by  Mr.  Vigors, 
in  honour  of  the  late  intrepid  and  accomplished  traveller  of 
that  name. 

We  now  arrive  at  the  Grallatores,  or  long-legged  birds, 


BIRDS.  339 

commonly  called  waders,  on  account  of  the  semi-aquatift 
propensities  by  which  so  many  of  them  are  distinguished. 
Of  these  the  most  gracefully  formed  are  the  demoiselles,  or 
lady-birds  {Ardea  pnvonia  and  Ardea  virgo,  Linn.),  both  of 
African  origin.  They  are  not  unfrequently  exhibited  in 
menageries  under  the  name  of  crown-birds,  or  Balearic 
cranes. 

The  flamingo  tribe  are  remarkable  for  the  length  of  their 
legs.  The  species  occasionally  found  in  Europe  {Phceni' 
copterus  ruber)  is  native  to  the  warmer  regions  of  Asia  and 
Africa.  The  bird  described  under  that  name  by  Alexander 
Wilson,  in  his  American  Ornithology,  is  a  distinct  species, 
mentioned  as  such  long  ago  by  Molina,  in  his  Natural  His- 
tory of  Chili.  It  is  alluded  to  by  Thomas  CjMnpbell  in  his 
Gertrude  of  Wyoming : — 

"  Then,  where  of  Indian  hills  the  daylight  takes 
His  leave,  how  might  you  the  flamingo  see 
Disporting  like  a  meteor  on  the  lakes." 

The  lesser  flamingo  (P.  minor  of  Vieillot  and  Temminck) 
is  a  species  discovered  of  late  years  as  an  inhabitant  of 
various  parts  of  Africa,  from  Senegal  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope. 

The  gigantic  stork  {Ciconia  argda)  though  well  known 
in  Bengal,  is  likewise  an  African  species.  This  bird  is 
sometimes  upwards  of  six  feet  in  height.  It  is  very  com- 
mon in  many  of  the  interior  parts  of  Africa,  and  is  called 
marabou  in  Senegal.  According  to  Major  Denham,  it  is 
protected  by  the  inhabitants  on  account  of  its  services  as  a 
scavenger.  Its  appetite  is  most  voracious,  and  nothing 
comes  amiss  to  its  omnivorous  propensities.  Smeathman 
has  given  a  long  account  of  a  tame  bird  of  this  species.  It 
regularly  attended  the  hall  at  dinner-time,  and  placed  itself 
behind  its  master's  chair.  It  frequently  helped  itself  to 
what  it  liked  best ;  and  one  day  darted  its  enormous  bill 
into  a  boiled  fowl,  which  it  swallowed  in  an  instant.  It 
used  to  fly  about  the  whole  country,  and  generally  roosted 
high  among  some  silk-cotton  trees.  From  this  station,  at 
the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  it  could  see  when  the 
dinner  was  carried  across  the  court,  when  it  immediately 
took  wing,  and  flying  with  great  swifl;ness,  arrived  in  time 
to  enter  the  house  with  some  of  those  who  carried  the  dishes. 


340  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

It  sometimes  remained  in  the  room  for  half  an  hour  after 
dinner,  turning  its  head  alternately  from  side  to  side,  with 
an  appearance  of  unusual  gravity,  as  if  listening  to  the 
conversation.  It  one  day  swallowed  a  cat.  Is  this  the 
Ardea  dubia  of  Gmelin  1 

Let  us  here  insert  the  name  of  the  umber  {Scopus  urn- 
hrctta,  Linn.),  an  African  species, — the  only  one  of  its 
genus,  of  the  manners  of  which  we  are  still  entirely  ig- 
norant. 

Of  the  snipe  and  woodcock  kind  several  species  inhabit 
Africa.  Of  these  we  shall  mention  no  more  than  the  Cape 
snipe  {Rhynchia  Africana  of  Lesson),  which  occurs  speci- 
fically the  same,  or  at  least  apparently  identical,  in  Bengal. 

Of  the  sandpiper  tribe  {Pelulna,  Cuvier)  a  few  occur  along 
the  African  shores,  and  a  new  species  of  phalarope  (Ph. 
Fimhriatus)  has  been  recently  described  by  M.  Temminck 
as  native  to  Senegal. 

The  genus  Curscrrius  is  found  in  all  the  quarters  of  the 
globe,  with  the  exception  of  America.  The  double-collared 
courier  (C  Bicinctus)  inhabits  the  interior  of  Southern  Af- 
rica; Temminck's  courier  (C  Temminckii,  Swainson)  is 
found  at  Sierra  Leone  ;  and  the  violet-winged  courier  (C 
chalcopterus,  Temm.)  comes  from  Senegal. 

The  plover  family  are  numerous  in  almost  all  parts  of 
the  world.  Africa  possesses  nearly  a  dozen  species,  of 
which  we  shall  mention  merely  the  crowned  plover  ( Chara- 
drius  coronatus),  one  of  the  largest  of  the  genus,  which  oc- 
curs at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 


Of  the  Palmipedes,  or  web-footed  water-fowl,  we  know 
of  no  great  number  peculiar  to  Africa.  These  birds  are  of 
wandering  habits,  and  being  possessed,  in  addition  to  their 
great  power  of  wing,  of  the  faculty  of  resting  on  the  water, 
we  can  place  no  limits  to  the  extent  of  their  migratory 
movements.  They  thus  become  more  cosmopolite  than 
many  of  the  other  tribes,  and  are  therefore  less  entitled  to 
our  attention  during  an  exposition  of  the  peculiar  and  more 
characteristic  features  of  a  particular  continent. 

The  first  of  this  order  which  we  shall  name  is  the  Cape 
penguin  {Spheniscus  Capcnsis).  This  bird  is  found  on 
several  of  the  southern  portions  of  our  globe,  especially  at 
the  Cape  and  the  Malouin  Islands.     It  lives  in  imme»se 


BIRDS.  341 

numbers,  congregated  together  in  spots  called  rookeries  by 
our  voyagers.     The  eggs  are  much  esteemed. 

The  pelican  (P.  Onocrotalvs,  Linn.),  common  alike  to 
Asia  and  the  eastern  countries  of  Europe,  is  also  found  in 
Africa,  where  it  has  been  observed  both  in  Egypt  and  tho 
Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Of  the  singular  genus  called  plotus  or  darter,  Le  Vaillant 
made  us  acquainted  with  a  species  from  Senegal  and  the 
Cape.  It  was  also  found  in  the  interior  of  the  country  by 
Major  Denham. 

The  elegant  and  long-winged  terns  or  sea-swallows  may 
be  enumerated  among  the  African  tribes.  The  slender- 
billed  tern  {Sterna  tenuirostris,  Temm.)  is  found  upon  the 
western  coasts,  and  the  white  tern  {S.  Candida,  Gmelin) 
inhabits  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  buoyant  and  pearly-plumaged  gulls,  though  more 
characteristic  of  the  northern  regions,  are  occasionally  seen 
along  the  African  shores.  We  are  not,  however,  acquainted 
with  any  species  peculiar  to  this  continent. 

The  genus  albatross  (Diomedea)  probably  contains  the 
largest  and  longest  winged  of  all  the  aquatic  species.  The 
wandering  albatross  (Z).  exulans)  is  equal  in  size  to  a  swan, 
and  its  wings  extend  about  ten  feet.  This  bird  is  princi- 
pally met  with  in  the  seas  adjacent  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope. 

The  Cape  petrel  (Procellaria  Capensis),  as  its  title  implies, 
occurs  also  near  the  last-named  locality.  It  is  common  in 
the  southern  seas,  but  more  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cape,  where  it  flies  in  immense  flocks.  It  is  extremely 
voracious,  and  feeds  on  fish  and  the  dead  carcasses  of  whales. 
When  caught,  it  squirts  a  quantity  of  oil  from  its  nostrils. 

The  spur-winged  goose  (Plectropterus  Gambensis)  is  a 
singular  species  inhabiting  Gambia  and  other  parts  of  Af- 
rica. The  anterior  angles  of  its  wings  are  armed  with 
sharp  projecting  spines. 

The  mountain  goose  {Anser  montana)  is  a  large  species, 
with  the  wing  feathers,  and  those  of  the  head,  of  a  bright 
shining  reddish  green.  According  to  Latham,  it  inhabits 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  it  keeps  mostly  on  the  hills, 
and  feeds  on  grass  and  herbs. 

Among  the  larger  of  the  web-footed  tribes  we  must  not 
omit  to  mention  the  Egyptian  goose  {Chenalovex  Egyvtia^a, 
Ff  2 


342  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

Stephens),  so  remarkable  for  its  strong  attachment  to  it# 
young.  It  was  worshipped  by  the  ancient  Egyptians,  and 
Us  sculptured  figure  is  still  recognisable  among  the  hiero- 
glyphical  representations  of  the  Theban  temples.  It  also 
occurs  in  the  southern  regions  of  Africa,  and  has  not  un- 
frequently  been  imported  into  Britain  to  beautify  the  waters 
of  our  pleasure-grounds  ;  but  the  love  of  liberty  is  deeply 
implanted  in  tliis  bird,  and  it  is  with  difficulty  that  even  the 
young,  born  and  bred  in  northern  climates,  are  retained  for 
a  continuance  in  a  state  of  satisfied  domestication. 

The  crimson-billed  sheldrake  {Tadoina  erythrorhyncka) 
inhabits  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  and  a  species  of  musk- 
duck  {Anas  Nilotica  of  Gmelin)  is  found  in  Upper  Egypt. 
It  is  easily  tamed,  and  lives  on  good  terms  with  other  poultry. 

From  the  preceding  summary,  the  student  of  ornithology 
will  be  able  to  form  a  sufficiently  correct  idea  of  the  pre- 
vailing features  which  characterize  this  branch  of  science 
in  Africa  ;  and,  by  comparing  the  present  sketch  with  those 
which  we  purpose  to  exhibit  of  othercountriesin  the  future 
volumes  of  our  series,  he  will  likewise  be  enabled  to  esti- 
mate the  peculiarities  by  which  the  continent  in  question  is 
distinguished  from  all  the  other  quarters  of  the  globe. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Naiurai  History  of  the  Reptiles^  Fishes,  Shells^  Insects,  tfc. 
of  Africa. 

Intermediate  between  the  birds  and  fishes  are  the  reptile 
race,  divided  by  naturalists  into  four  principal  branches,  the 
Chelonian,  the  Saurian,  the  Ophidian,  and  the  Batrachian 
reptiles.  Of  all  these,  Africa,  "  fruitful  in  monsters,"  pro- 
duces some  remarkable  examples. 

In  regard  to  the  geograi)hical  distribution  of  reptiles,  the 
first  and  most  general  observ^ation  is,  that  they  augment 
in  number  as  we  advance  towards  the  equatorial  regions. 
While   Sweden    possesses   scarcely  a  dozen   lizards   and 


REPTILES.  34^ 

nakes,  about  three  or  four  frogs  and  toads,  and  not  a  single 
tortoise,  the  temperate  parts  of  Europe  produce  about  forty 
snakes  and  lizards,  and  several  of  the  tortoise  tribe.  A« 
soon  as  we  gain  the  southern  extremity  of  Spain,  the  num- 
ber of  species  in  these  tribes  greatly  increases,  and  in  An- 
dalusia the  African  complexion  of  the  country  is  still  further 
manifested  by  the  appearance  of  the  chameleon.  On  pro- 
ceeding further  south,  not  only  does  the  number  of  reptilea 
increase,  but  they  also  augment  in  size,  till,  from  the  Tro- 
pic of  Cancer  onwards,  and  beyond  the  Line,  we  meet  with 
the  crocodiles,  caymans,  boas,  and  other  giants  of  the  reptile 
race.  For  the  present,  however,  we  must  confine  ourselves 
to  a  brief  allusion  to  a  very  limited  number  of  the  African 
tribes. 

1st,  Ckelonian  reptiles  or  tortoises  and  turtles.  Several 
of  this  division  occur  in  Africa,  such  as  the  Testudo  Grcecoy 
the  Testudo  triunguis,  &c. 

2d,  Saurian  reptiles.  To  this  division  belong  the  croco- 
diles and  lizards,  the  geckos,  chameleons,  and  many  others. 

The  common  crocodile  {Lacerta  crocodilus),  celebrated  in 
the  ancient  history  of  Egypt,  is  spread  over  a  considerable 
extent  of  this  continent. 

"Erewhile,  emerging  from  the  brooding  sand, 
With  tiger  paw  he  prints  the  brineless  strand  , 
High  on  the  flood,  with  speckled  bosom  swims, 
Helmed  with  broad  tail,  and  oared  with  giant  limbs  ; 
Rolls  his  fierce  eyeballs,  clasps  his  iron  claws,  ' 

And  champs  with  gnashing  teeth  his  massy  jaws. 
Old  Nilus  sighs  through  all  his  cane-crowned  shores, 
And  swarthy  Memphis  trembles  and  adores." 

There  are  several  different  kinds  of  crocodile  in  the  old 
and  new  world,  and  their  tempers  and  dispositions  seem  to 
vary  in  different  localities.  Humboldt  and  Mungo  Park 
regarded  them  with  fear  and  trembling,  while  Audubon 
and  Mr.  Waterton  hold  them  in  little  consideration  either 
as  friends  or  foes.  Though  seldom  tamed,  they  are  not  by 
any  means  incapable  of  domestication,  as  has  been  demon- 
strated by  many  examples,  both  in  ancient  and  modera 
times. 

Many  lizards  occur  in  Africa.  We  shall  only  mention 
one  found  near  Mourzouk.  It  is  called  aselis,  and,  if  not  a 
txue  lizard,  resembles  one  in  form.    When  alarmed,  it 


344  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

buries  itself  in  the  sand ;  and  when  dropped  from  a 
height,  it  immediately  sinks  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
spot  on  which  it  fell.  "  These  little  creatures,"  says  Cap- 
tain Lyon,  "  are  eagerly  bought  by  the  girls  and  married 
women,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  how  many  children 
they  shall  have.  By  stretching  them  the  skin  will  imme- 
diately crack,  and  the  women  most  religiously  believe  that 
for  every  sound  they  shall  bear  a  child." 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  families  of  the  saurian  tribe 
^  is  that  which  contains  the  chameleons.  The  common 
species  {Lacerta  Africana)  is  found  in  Egypt,  Barbary,  and 
the  south  of  Spain.  The  changes  of  colour  in  these  ani- 
mals, though  by  some  deemed  fabulous,  are  now  beyond 
dispute.  The  causes  of  these  changes,  however,  and  their 
mode  of  action,  may  still  be  classed  among  the  more  ob- 
scure points  of  natural  history.  They  seem  independent 
of  external  objects,  and  vary  within  a  certain  range,  almost 
every  hour. 

"  Non  mihi  tot  ciiltus  numero  comprendere  fas  est  • 
Adjicit  omaius  proxima  quaeque  dies." 

3d,  Ofhidian  reptiles^  or  serpents.  Among  the  most  re- 
markable of  the  African  species  of  this  division,  is  the  ce- 
rastes, or  homed  viper.  It  is  characterized  by  a  small 
curved  horn  over  each  eyelid.  It  lives  in  the  sand,  and 
was  well  known  to  the  ancients.  Another  singular  ser- 
pent is  the  haje  {Coluber  haje,  Linnaeus).  The  Egyptian 
jugglers,  by  pressing  the  neck  of  this  creature  between 
their  fingers,  produce  a  kind  of  catalepsy  which  renders  it 
stiff  and  motionless.  This  is  rather  a  curious  fact  when 
•  considered  in  connexion  with  the  scriptural  narrative  in  the 
seventh  chapter  of  Exodus,  where  the  rods  of  the  magicians 
when  thrown  down  are  converted  into  serpents. 

This  species  was  regarded  by  the  ancient  Egyptians  as 
the  emblem  of  the  protecting  divinity  of  the  world,  and  its 
figure  is  frequently  sculptured  on  each  side  of  a  globe,  on 
the  outer  gates  of  their  temples. 

4th,  The  Batrachian  reptiles,  such  as  frogs,  &c.  Africa 
produces  comparatively  few  species  of  this  division.  The 
soil  is  probably  too  dry.  We  shall  here  mention  only 
the  short-headed  toad  {Rana  breviceps)  described  by  Lin- 


FISHES.  345 

nsus  in  the  Ammnitates  AcademiccB,  vol.  i.     It  is  a  very 

small  species,  native  to  Senegal  and  some  other  parts  of 
Africa. 


The  great  and  almost  inexhaustible  class  of  fishes  next 
demands  our  attention. 

Our  acquaintance  with  the  laws  which  regulate  the  geo- 
graphical distribution  of  this  class  is  extremely  meager  :  in 
other  words,  the  facts  illustrating  the  greater  or  less  ex- 
tension of  their  localities  are  few,  and  have  never  been 
properly  generalized.  From  the  immeasurable  extent  and 
continuous  nature  of  the  fluid  which  they  inhabit,  they  are 
supplied  by  nature  with  greater  facilities  of  dispersion  than 
most  other  animals ;  while  the  greater  equality  of  the 
temperature  of  water,  when  compared  with  that  of  either 
earth  or  air,  admits,  in  several  instances,  of  the  same  spe- 
cies inhabiting  almost  every  latitude  from  pole  to  pole. 
Those  races  especially,  which,  travelling  together  in  vast 
shoals,  speedily  consume  the  natural  food  which  each  par- 
ticular spot  affords,  are  obliged,  like  the  pastoral  tribes  of 
old,  or  the  woodland  hunters  of  America,  to  remove  from 
place  to  place  in  search  of  additional  supplies,  and  thus  the 
species  acquires  a  more  widely  extended  geographical  dis- 
tribution. It  is  thus  that  the  cod  and  herring  are  spread 
over  the  whole  extent  of  the  Northern  Ocean,  and  in  undi- 
minished numbers,  notwithstanding  the  war  of  extermina- 
tion which  man  and  other  voracious  animals  appear  to 
wage  against  them.  Those  species  which  lead  a  solitary 
and,  as  it  may  be  called,  a  stationary  life  are  frequently 
confined  within  very  narrow  limits.  The  Chaiodons,  for 
example,  which  delight  in  rocky  coasts  covered  with  madre- 
pores, attach  themselves  to  the  torrid  zone,  which  produces 
so  abundantly  those  magnificent  ornaments  of  the  sea. 
But  though  thus  confined  to  particular  spots,  from  which 
the  individuals  of  the  species  never  wander,  the  species 
itself  may  be  said  to  be  repeated  again  in  different  and 
distant  regions,  separated  from  each  other  by  almost  in- 
surmountable obstacles.  Thus,  many  of  what  may  be 
termed  stationary  species  are  found  identically  the  same 
along  the  coasts  of  Brazil,  in  the  Arabian  Gulf,  and  over 
the  multiplied  shores  of  Polynesia.  It  has  hence  been 
concluded  that  such  species,  incapable  of  colonizing  them 


346  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

selves  by  leaving  their  accustomed  shores,  and  hazarding 
a  journey  across  unknown  oceans,  have  either  been  created 
in  more  places  than  one,  or  have  been  enabled  to  transport 
themselves  by  means  different  from  any  of  those  which  are 
now  available  in  the  ordinary  course  of  nature.* 

If  the  natural  means  by  which  the  more  powerful  species, 
inhabiting  the  saline  waters  of  the  ocean,  have  spread 
themselves  from  clime  to  clime,  be  in  some  measure  within 
the  reach  of  our  comprehension,  it  is  otherwise  with  those 
peculiar  to  rivers  and  the  waters  of  inla.id  lakes.  How 
these  have  contrived  to  migrate  from  one  region  to  another, 
and  to  people  with  identical  species  the  depths  of  far-re- 
moved and  solitary  waters,  separated  from  each  other  by 
chains  of  lofty  mountains,  or  wide-extended  wastes  of  desert 
sand,  is  a  problem  which,  in  the  present  state  of  our 
knowledge,  we  seek  in  vain  to  solve. f 

Of  the  genus  Murctna  several  species  occur  in  the  African 
seas.  The  spotted  muraena  (iW.  guttata)  was  observed  by 
Forskall  in  the  Red  Sea.  A  small  species  of  goby,  scarcely 
exceeding  an  inch  in  length,  is  found  in  the  Nile.  It  is  the 
Gobius  aphya  of  Linnaeus.  We  may  here  mention,  that  the 
name  aphya,  by  which  this  species  has  been  distinguished, 
seems  to  have  been  applied  by  the  ancient  writers  to  such 
small  fishes  as  they  vaguely  supposed  to  have  been  produced 
rather  from  the  foam  of  the  ocean  than  according  to  the 
usual  process  of  nature.^  Several  species  of  bull-head 
( Cottus)  are  described  by  Commerson,  and  the  genus  Scot 
pcBna,  so  eccentric  in  its  forms,  is  represented  in  the  African 
seas,  among  others,  by  the  Cape  scorpaena  {S.  Capensis), 
mentioned  by  Gronovius.  A  magnificent  fish,  called  the 
opah  dory  {Zeus  luna),  inhabits  the  African  shores.  Dr. 
Mortimer  exhibited  a  fish  of  this  kind  to  the  Royal  Society 
in  1750,  which  was  taken  "  on  the  coast  of  Leith  ;"  and  he 
adds  (in  the  Phil.  Trans,  for  that  year),  that  the  Prince  of 
Anamaboe,  being  then  in  England,  immediately  recognised 
it,  and  said  it  was  common  in  his  country,  and  was  excellent 
eating. 

*  See  Gaymard's  Mimoire  sur  la  Distribution  Geographique  des 
Poissons. 

t  See  further  on  this  subject  the  5th  number  of  my  Illustrations  of 
Zoology. 

t  See  Shaw's  General  Zoolog-j,  vol.  v.  p  245 


FISHES,  347 

The  Rcmora^  so  remarkable  for  its  faculty  of  adhering  to 
other  fishes  by  a  peculiar  sucker-shaped  organ  on  the  top 
of  its  head,  is  found  in  the  Mediterranean  and  other  saline 
waters  which  wash  the  African  shores.  The  olive-green 
remora  (Echencis  cavula  rotundata  of  Bloch)  is  common  on 
the  coasts  of  Mozambique.  A  species  of  Labrus  {L.  Nilch- 
ticus)  inhabits  the  Nile  ;  and  the  star-eyed  Bodian  {Bodi' 
anus  stcllifer)  is  native  to  the  seas  about  the  Cape.  The 
silvery  mackarel  {Scomber  crumenophthalmus)  is  found  in 
considerable  plenty  about  the  coasts  of  Guinea,  and  the 
Scomber  chloris  is  also  an  African  species. 

The  surmullet  {Mullus  ruber)  so  famous  as  an  epicurean 
delicacy  among  the  Romans,  and  so  highly,  though  not  very 
humanely,  admired  for  the  splendour  of  its  dying  hues,  is 
found  both  along  the  African  and  European  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean.  "  Vide,"  says  Seneca,  "  quomodo  exarserit 
rubor  omni  acrior  minio  !  vide  qua^s  per  latera  venas  agat ! 
Ecce!  sanguinem  putes  ventrem !  quamlucidumquiddamcoe- 
ruleumque  sub  ipso  tempore  effulsit !  jam  porrigitur  et  pallet, 
et  in  unum  colorem  componitur  !"  The  flying  gurnard  ( TVi- 
gla  voUtans)  may  likewise  be  mentioned  as  a  Mediterranean 
species  of  singular  habits  and  great  beauty.  It  swims  in  shoals 
and  delights  the  voyager  by  its  short  and  frequent  flights. 

The  electric  silure  {Silurus  electricus)  dwells  in  the  rivers 
of  Africa.  It  was  observed  by  Forskall  in  the  Nile,  by 
whom,  however,  in  his  Fauna  Arabica,  it  is  improperly 
named  Raja  torpedo.  Another  species  of  Silurus  called 
platte-kop,  or  flat-head,  occurs  in  the  fresh  waters  of  South- 
em  Africa.  Mr.  Burchell  observed  two  boys  of  the  Bush- 
men tribe  fishing  for  this  species.  They  stood  by  the  wa- 
ter-side, motionless  as  herons.  After  waiting  patiently  for 
half  an  hour,  a  fish  came  within  their  reach,  and  was  in- 
stantly pierced  through  with  their  spears  or  assagays.  It 
was  nearly  three  feet  long,  entirely  of  a  lead  colour,  but  ap- 
proaching to  white  underneath.  The  head  was  very  broad 
and  flat,  the  eyes  pale  yellow  and  extremely  small,  and  the 
mouth  was  bearded  with  several  very  long  strings.  The 
flesh  was  white,  rich,  and  nutritious.  This  fish  seems  to 
occur  only  in  those  rivers  which  run  to  the  western  coast 
(that  is,  to  the  northward  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope), 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  eels  have  never  been  seen  in  any 
but  those  which  fall  into  the  ocean  eastward  of  that  cape. 


348  NATURAL   HISTORY    OF    AFRICA. 

Of  the  salmon  genus,  the  Salmo  fuhus,  a  fierce  and  hun- 
gry fish,  is  much  esteemed  as  an  article  of  food  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  Guinea.  The  notable  genus  Polypterus  was  first 
scientifically  distinguished  by  M.  GeofTroy.  Its  shape  ig 
long,  cylindrical,  and  serpentifonn  ;  the  head  is  defended 
by  large  bony  plates  ;  and  the  body  is  covered  by  strong 
scales,  resembling  those  of  a  coat  of  mail.  This  fish  is 
called  bichin  by  the  Egyptians,  and  is  considered  as  very 
rare.  It  is  said  to  dwell  in  the  soft  mud  of  the  Nile,  and  is 
the  finest  flavoured  of  all  the  Nilotic  fishes  ;  but  as  it  is 
hardly  possible  to  open  the  skin  with  a  knife,  the  fish  is  first 
boiled,  and  the  skin  afterward  drawn  off  almost  entire.  The 
tooth-tongued  argentine  {A.  Glossodonta)  is  a  beautiful  spe- 
cies, native  to  the  Red  Sea  ;  and  the  pearl-bladdered  argen- 
tine {A.  Sphyrana)  is  a  Mediterranean  fish  of  the  same  ge- 
nus. The  air-bladder  of  this  species  is  equally  bright  and 
beautifiil  with  its  external  parts,  and  along  with  these  is 
much  used  in  the  preparation  of  artificial  pearls. 

The  flying-fish  {Exocatus  exiliens)  is  remarkable  for  the 
great  length  of  its  pectoral  fins,  which  enable  it  to  sustain 
itself  above  the  waves  for  several  hundred  yards.  The 
silvery  polyneme  (P.  Niloticus)  is  a  very  elegant  fish,  of 
great  excellence  as  an  article  of  food.  Its  mode  of  capture 
in  the  Nile  is  described  by  Bruce.  The  ten-fingered  poly- 
neme (P.  decadactylus),  likewise  esteemed  a  very  wholesome 
and  agreeable  fish,  occurs  along  the  coasts  of  Guinea,  and 
occasionally  enters  the  rivers  of  that  country.  Of  fishes 
allied  to  the  herring,  Africa  produces  several  species.  The 
Cbipea  Africana  is  said  to  be  extremely  plentiful  during  the 
summer  months  in  the  last-named  district ;  and  the  dorab 
herring  ( C.  dorab)  is  described  by  Forskall  as  native  to  the 
Red  Sea.  Among  the  carp  tribe  we  shall  merely  mention 
the  Cyprinus  gonorhynchus,  mentioned  by  Gronovius  as  an 
inhabitant  of  the  Cape  seas.  We  may  observe  in  passing, 
that  a  great  variety  of  fish  are  caught  in  the  salt  waters 
which  environ  the  Cape  ;  but  fresh  fish  are  there  so  rare, 
that  Mr.  Burchell  "  does  not  recollect  having  seen  any  at 
table  except  eels,  and  these  were  regarded  as  a  curiosity."* 
The  genus  Mormyrus  seems  almost  entirely  peculiar  to  the 
NUe. 

Of  the  cartilaginous  fishes,  several  species  of  ray  inhabit 
♦  Travels,  vol.  i.  p.  79. 


FISH.  349 

the  African  seas.  For  example,  the  Raja  guttcla  was  seen 
by  Commerson  along  the  coasts  of  Ma(^aga6car,  and  the 
lymna  and  pearled  rays  (J?,  lynvna  and  sephen)  both  occur 
in  the  Red  Sea.  It  is  from  the  skin  of  the  last-named 
species  that  the  beautiful  substance  called  Galluchat  by  the 
French  is  prepared.  It  is  tinted  with  blue,  green,  or  red, 
according  to  the  taste  of  the  artist,  and  being  afterward 
polished,  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  different  kinds  of 
cages,  telescope-tubes,  &c.  The  younger  specimens,  ac- 
cording to  La  C6pede,  are  preferred, — the  tubercular  coat 
of  the  full-grown  individuals  being  rather  too  rough  for  the 
desired  purpose.  Several  species  of  shark  inhabit  the  Af- 
rican seas.     They  are  disagreeable  to  bathers. 

The  extraordinary  genus  Ostracion,  or  trunk-fish,  distin- 
guished by  the  peculiar  bony  crust  or  covering  in  which  it 
is  enveloped,  is  widely  distributed  over  the  Indian  and  Ame- 
rican oceans.  Of  the  African  species  we  may  name  the 
tuberculated  trunk-fish  (C.  iuherculatus\  by  some  regarded 
as  a  mere  variety  of  Ostracion  trigueter,  a  kind  much 
esteemed  for  the  uses  of  the  table  in  the  East  Indies.  The 
not  less  remarkable  tribe  included  in  the  genus  Tetrodon 
are  represented  in  Africa  by  the  lineated  species  (T.  line- 
atus)  which  sometimes  occurs  in  the  Nile,  where  Hasselquist 
was  assured  by  the  fishermen,  that  on  seizing  this  fish 
in  the  water  their  hands  were  frequently  stung  as  if  by 
nettles. 

The  last  genus  to  which  we  shall  allude  is  that  called 
SyngncUhics,  or  pipe-fish.  Some  of  these  are  found  in  the 
northern  seas,  others  in  the  equatorial ;  while  the  most 
remarkable  of  all  is  the  foliated  pipe-fish  (Hippocampus  fo- 
liatus^  Cuvier),  which  has  hitherto  occurred  only  along  the 
shores  of  New-Holland  and  Van  Dieraan's  Land.  The 
pelagic  pipe-fish  {S.  pelagicus)  is  found  in  the  African  seas. 
We  shall  close  our  ichthyological  department  by  two 
short  extracts.  "  I  was  present,"  says  M.  Adanson,  "  at  a 
very  extraordinary  capture  of  fish,  made  the  same  month 
(March,  1750)  on  the  coast  of  Ben,  within  a  league  of  the 
island  Goree,  by  the  company  belonging  to  one  of  the  East 
India  ships,  which  had  anchored  in  the  road.  They  haa 
only  a  net  of  about  sixty  fathoms,  which  they  threw  at  a 
venture  into  the  sea  ;  for  they  were  not  so  lucky  as  to  espy 
any  of  those  shoals  of  fishes  :  yet  they  had  such  surprising 


350  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

success,  that  the  shore  was  covered  the  whole  length  of  th« 
net  with  the  fish  they  caught,  though  the  net  was  in  a  bad 
condition.  I  reckoned  part  of  them,  and  judged  that  they 
might  in  all  be  upwards  of  6000,  the  least  of  them  as  large 
as  a  fine  carp.  There  you  might  see  pilchards,  rock-fish, 
mullets,  or  gull-fish,  of  different  sorts ;  molebats,  with  other 
fishes  very  little  known.  The  negroes  of  the  neighbouring 
village  took  each  their  load,  and  the  ship's  crew  filled  their 
boat  until  it  was  ready  to  sink,  leaving  the  rest  on  the  sea- 
shore. In  any  other  country,  such  a  capture  of  fish  would, 
without  all  doubt,  pass  for  a  miracle."* 

The  fossil  fish  of  Africa  are  scarcely  known.  The  fol- 
lowing passage,  in  illustration  of  that  curious  branch,  is 
from  Lichtenstein's  Travels  • — "  In  the  slate-stone  from 
which  the  spring  rose  were  the  impressions  of  an  innume- 
rable multitude  of  fishes.  We  perceived  this  extraordinary 
appearance  first  upon  the  surface  ;  but  the  impressions  were 
larger,  more  distinct,  and  finer  in  proportion  as  we  broke 
deeper  and  deeper  into  the  stone.  The  form  of  the  fish 
resembled  that  of  the  eel,  and  the  length  of  the  largest  was 
about  three  feet.  The  brittleness  of  the  slate  made  it  im- 
possible for  us  to  get  out  a  single  specimen  entire  ;  and  the 
fragments  which  we  preserved,  for  the  purpose  of  examin- 
ing them  at  our  leisure,  were  afterward  destroyed  by  the 
jolting  of  the  wagon.  The  more  I  made  myself  acquainted 
with  this  country  by  my  subsequent  travels,  the  more  re- 
markable did  the  phenomena  appear  to  me,  as  being  the 
only  remains  of  a  former  world  which  I  found  throughout 
the  whole  of  Southern  Africa."t  We  must  now  proceed  to 
the  next  division  of  our  subject. 

The  MoUusca  and  Conchifera  of  Africa  next  demand  our 
attention.  To  these  extensive  classes  belong  whatever 
species  are  known  under  the  general  names  of  shellfish 
and  shells.  The  precise  localities  of  African  conchology 
are,  in  truth,  so  superficially  ascertained  that,  even  if 
the  portion  of  our  present  volume  originally  allotted  to 
the  zoological  department  had  not  been  already  much  more 
than  exhausted,  we  should  have  found  great  difficulty  in 

*  Voyage  to  Senegal,  p.  178. 

t  Travels  in  Southern  Africa,  vol.  1.  p.  95 


SHELLS.  351 

satisfying  either  ourselves  or  our  readers.  In  the  absence, 
however,  of  fuller  and  more  circumstantial  information,  we 
must  rest  contented  with  the  following  brief  details  : — 

The  shells  of  the  warmer  regions  of  the  earth,  as  well  as 
the  birds  and  insects,  are  generally  distinguished  from  those 
of  colder  countries  by  the  greater  beauty  of  their  forms  and 
colouring  ;  and  those  of  Africa,  while  they  participate  in 
this  splendid  character,  are  yet  more  highly  valued  in  con- 
sequence of  their  comparatively  rare  occurrence  in  collec- 
tions. The  productions  of  the  African  seas  are  probably 
less  known  than  those  of  any  other  quarter  of  the  globe. 

The  Mediterranean  affords  very  numerous  species,  al- 
though the  very  slight  changes  of  level  which  its  waters 
undergo  render  its  testaceous  productions  less  easily  ob- 
tained than  in  more  northern  latitudes, 

"Where  the  redundant  seas  wash  up  fresh  stores." 

A  few  of  the  more  remarkable  animals  of  these  classes 
which  occur  in  the  Mediterranean  are, — several  kinds  of 
cuttle-fish,  such  as  Sejpia  officinalis^  Loligo  vulgaris,  and  L. 
sepiola  ;  Argonauta  Argo,  Janthina  communis,  Isocardium 
glohosum,  Cardita  sulcata,  and  ajar  ;  Spo7idylus  gaderopus, 
Avicitla  tarentina,  Cardium  costatum,  Anatina  globosa,  Pholas 
dactylxLs,  and  several  Pinnce.  The  Tjrian  purple  of  the 
ancients  is  supposed  to  have  been  obtained  from  the  Purpura 
patula,  common  in  this  sea.  The  use  of  that  splendid 
and  regal  die  is  now  superseded  by  the  discovery  of  the 
tinctorial  uses  of  the  cochineal, — a  small  and  obscure  insect, 
which  the  skill  of  the  chemist  has  rendered  indispensable 
even  to  the  garments  of  kings. 

Egypt  and  the  Valley  of  the  Nile  were  first  correctly  ob- 
served by  the  skilfiil  Savigny  and  the  other  naturaUsts  of  the 
great  French  expedition  ;  afterward  by  Olivier,  and  at  a 
still  later  period  by  Cailliaud.  A  few  species  mentioned  by 
Poiret,  those  described  by  Chemnitz,  and  the  collection 
made  by  the  Danish  naturaUst  Grove  from  Morocco, 
form  the  chief  materials  of  our  knowledge  of  this  de- 
partment along  the  Barbary  coasts.  The  Red  Sea,  so 
full  of  shoals  and  coral  reefs,  is  said  to  be  peculiarly  rich  in 
shells  ;  but  with  the  exception  of  the  work  of  Forskall,  and 
the  more  recent  travels  of  Lord  Valentia,  we  can  scarcely 


352  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

indicate  any  proper  sources  of  information  regarding  that 
<juarter. 

The  eastern  shores  of  Africa  are,  in  respect  to  this,  as 
well  as  all  other  branches  of  natural  history,  almost  entirely 
unknown. 

With  the  species  of  the  western  coasts  we  are  somewhat 
better  acquainted.  Adanson  described  many  of  the  shells 
of  Senegal,  and  Bowdich  a  few  from  the  Gambia.  Maug«5, 
Von  Buch,  and  Bowdich  made  small  collections  from  Ma- 
deira, Teneriffe,  and  Porto  Santo.  Those  islands  are  said 
to  be  rich  in  peculiar  species,  and  therefore  merit  more 
particular  attention  than  has  yet  been  bestowed  upon  them. 
Along  the  western  coasts  numerous  species  also  occur  which 
are  common  to  the  tropical  seas  ;  such  as  Cyprcea  Tigrisy 
monetae  and  helvola, — several  Olives,  Cones,  and  Volutes, 
the  pearl-oyster,  Mdcagrina  margaritiferOy  &c. 

Of  the  land  and  fresh-water  shells  of  the  interior  of  this 
continent  scarcely  any  thing  is  known.  Le  Vaillant  de- 
scribed only  a  single  species  from  Caffraria,  though  Dela- 
lande  afterward  collected  many  in  that  country ;  and 
Bruce  and  Burchell  have  incidentally  noticed  a  few  from 
Abyssinia  and  the  more  southern  districts. 

At  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  the  quantities  of  shells  which 
cover  the  beaches  are  immense,  and  the  natives  frequently 
employ  them  for  lime.  But  the  heavy  surf  which  so  often 
thunders  along  the  shores  of  this  promontory  (the  Cape  of 
Storms)  seems  to  prevent  the  shells  from  being  frequently 
gathered  in  a  perfect  state  ;  and  South  African  specimens 
are  therefore  more  rare  in  collections  than  might  be  expected. 
The  coasts  of  Madagascar  are  said  to  be  particularly  rich 
in  fine  shells,  although  we  have  acquired  as  yet  but  a  very 
meager  knowledge  of  the  testaceous  productions  of  that 
great  island.  If  its  climate  and  political  circumstances 
admitted  of  a  closer  and  more  assiduous  search,  treasures 
of  great  value  would  no  doubt  reward  the  toils  of  the  con- 
chological  collector. 

The  northern  and  western  coasts,  though  separated  by 
80  wide  an  extent  of  barren  sands,  offer  in  this  department 
a  few  remarkable  analogies.  The  Anadonta  rubeiis  of  the 
Nile  is  found  specifically  the  same  in  Senegal,  and  the 
Helix  flammata  of  Nubia  has  been  observed  along  the  banks 
of  the  Gambia.    Among  the  African  shells,  a  few  occur 


INSECTS.  353 

extensively  distributed  over  other  countries.  The  Bulla 
ttriata  is  found  in  Egypt  and  Senegal,  along  the  coasts  of 
France  and  England,  in  the  Antilles,  and  South  America. 
The  Turbo  petrczus,  well  known  in  Europe,  is  equally  fami- 
liar to  the  sun-burnt  collector  at  the  Cape.  The  Helix  as- 
persa^  so  abundant  in  all  the  temperate  countries  of  Europe, 
has  also  been  found  in  Africa,  and  as  far  west  as  the  Canary 
Islands.  Another  species,  the  Helix  candidissima,  frequent 
in  France  and  Spain,  has  been  found  in  Tripoli  and  other 
parts  of  the  African  continent.  The  Helix  agira  of  Egypt 
and  Barbary  is  found  in  Provence,  though  not  in  Italy ; 
while  the  Helix  lactea  of  Spain  and  Algiers  is  unknown  in 
Provence,  yet  extends  northward  as  far  as  Rousillon. 

Of  other  African  shells  we  shall  mention  merely  the 
Cassis  Madagascaricnsis,  Patella  granatina  and  testudinariay 
Conus  ammiralis, — a  species  highly  prized  by  collectors, 
Valuta  armaia,  Haliotis  striata,  and  Oliva  erythrostoma. 

The  fossil  shells  of  an  extremely  limited  portion  of  Africa 
are  partially  exhibited  in  the  great  French  work  on  Egypt ;  and 
those  of  Mount  Barkal  have  been  illustrated  by  M.  Cailliaud. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  geographical  distribution  of  Insects, 
notwithstanding  the  more  careful  study  of  the  subject  which 
has  prevailed  of  late  years,  may  be  said  to  be  still  in  its 
infancy.  Latreille's  little  work,  however  imperfect,  is  the 
most  complete  with  which  we  have  as  yet  been  furnished.* 

It  is  easy  to  suppose  that  if  certain  plants  are  peculiar  to 
certain  climates,  so  also  insects,  the  greater  proportion  of 
which  not  only  feed  on  plants,  but  are  each  according  to 
its  kind  almost  restricted  to  particular  species,  must  in 
like  manner  be  characteristic  of  special  localities.  The  en- 
tomological characters  of  the  southern  shores  of  Europe 
strongly  exhibit  their  geographical  approach  to  the  African 
continent.  The  Ateuchus  sacer,  various  species  of  Scaunts 
and  Akis,  the  European  scorpion,  several  CigalcB,  Termites^ 
and  others,  may  be  regarded,  in  the  southern  countries  of 
Europe,  as  the  avarU-courriers  of  those  more  exclusively 

•  "Introduction  4  la  Geographic  G^n^rale  des  Arachnides  et  des  In- 
sectes,  ou  des  Climats  propres  A  ces  Animaux."  Tliis  memoir  was  read 
to  the  Academy  of  Sciences  in  1815,  and  forms  part  of  the  third  volume 
of  the  Memoires  du  Museum  d'llistoire  Naturelle."  It  was  republished 
in  a  separate  volume  by  the  same  author,  entitled  "  Memoires  sur  divert 
Sujets  de  rHifitoire  Naturelle  des  Insectes,"  &c.  Paris,  1810. 
Gg2 


364  NATURAL  HISTORY  OP  AFRICA. 

African  forms  which  have  their  centre  of  dominion  in  the 
burning  deserts.  Along  the  Mediterranean  shores,  the 
traveller  may  study  the  habits  of  many  curious  insects  be 
longing  to  the  genera  Mygale,  Onilis,  Cebrio,  Pimelia^ 
Brachycerus,  Brenhis,  and  Scarytes,  and  may  also  enrich  hia 
collection  by  the  capture  of  many  beautiful  butterflies,  and 
other  lepidopterous  insects,  which  are  more  truly  charac- 
teristic of  Northern  Africa.  Spain  especially  exhibits  many 
features  of  African  zoology.  The  European  entomologist 
there  finds,  for  the  first  time,  several  species  of  the  following 
genera : — Erodius,  Sepidium,  Zygia,  Hemoptera,  Galeodesj 
BrachiniLS,  and  Pimelia.  But  it  is  only  after  crossing  the  Me- 
diterranean, and  traversing  the  African  shores,  whether  north 
of  the  Atlas,  or  eastward  towards  the  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea, 
that  our  eyes  are  delighted  with  the  hitherto  unknown  forms 
of  Anthia,  Graphipterusj  Siagona,  and  numerous  other  spe- 
cies unknown  to  the  colder  and  moister  shores  of  Europe. 

But  no  sooner  do  we  leave  the  Mediterranean  coasts  of 
Africa,  and  enter  upon  the  more  weary  and  disastrous  pilgrim- 
age of  the  great  deserts,  the  apparently  limitless  expanse 
of  which  so  soon  greets  the  eye  of  the  yet  undaunted  tra- 
veller, than  almost  all  vestiges  of  European  life,  whether 
human  or  brute,  disappear  ;  and  Nubia,  Ethiopia,  Senegal, 
and  a  great  part  of  Guinea  exhibit  entomological  forms, 
cognate  in  character  when  compared  among  themselves,  but 
separated,  in  every  sense  of  the  words,  "  longo  intervallo," 
from  those  of  Europe.  As  we  proceed  further  southwards, 
where  the  chariot  of  the  "  Great  Apollo"  rolls  on  with  a 
still  fiercer  and  more  fiery  lustre,  and  the  beams  of  a  verti- 
cal sun  induce  even  the  tawny  Moor  and  the  woolly-headed 
negro  to  avoid  his  scorching  and  sometimes  fatal  rays,  we 
discover  many  extraordinary  forms  of  insect  Ufe,  called  into 
existence  through  the  instrumentality  of  that  bright  efful- 
gence which  the  pale-faced  European  has  so  often  sought 
to  withstand  in  vain.  From  the  burning  regions  of  Guinea, 
and  the  parched  shores  of  the  Congo,  we  derive  the  finest 
of  those  magnificent  coleopterous  insects,  named  generically 
Goliathus,  by  Lamarck.  The  western  and  equinoctial  parts 
of  Africa  also  yield  us  the  species  of  Petalocheirus  and  jBn- 
celadus  ;  while  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  is  remarkable  for 
the  genus  Anthia  and  Brachyccrus.  The  last  named  district 
is  almost  the  exclusive  domain  of  Manticora  and  Pneumora 


INSECTS.  355 

Mid  the  southern  parts  of  Africa  in  general  present  us  with 
Sagroy  Diopsis,  and  Pausstis,  although  it  may  be  observed 
that  some  of  these  also  occur  in  the  East  Indies.  The  last- 
named  genus  is  remarkable  for  the  very  peculiar  form  of  the 
antennae.  The  genus  does  not  exist  in  the  twelfth  edition 
of  the  Systema  Nattircz,  but  was  published  by  Linnaeus  in 
a  separate  dissertation  in  1775.  Only  a  single  species  was 
known  at  that  period,  and  another  was  added  in  1796,  by 
Dr.  Adam  Afzelius,  then  residing  at  Sierra  Leone.*  The 
etymology  of  the  name  is  supposed  by  AfzeUus  to  be  from 
the  Greek  n-aucus,  signifying  a  pause>  cessation,  or  rest ;  for 
Linnaeus,  now  old  and  infirm,  and  sinking  under  the  weight 
of  age  and  labour,  saw  no  probability  of  continuing  any 
longer  his  career  of  glory.  "  He  might,  therefore,"  adds 
Dr.  Shaw,  "  be  supposed  to  say  '  hie  meta  laborum,'  as  it  in 
reality  proved,  at  least  with  regard  to  insects, — pausus  being 
the  last  he  ever  described."t  It  was  literally,  in  the  lan- 
guage of  Young, — 

"An  awful  pause  prophetic  of  his  end !" 

Both  Madagascar  and  St.  Helena  present  a  few  insects 
which  to  a  certain  extent  demonstrate  the  African  com- 
plexion of  those  islands ;  but  the  latter  especially  is  also 
allied  by  its  entomological  features  to  some  of  the  south- 
western countries  of  Asia.  According  to  Latreille,  Africa 
furnishes  no  species  of  the  genus  Passalus,  although  it  is 
elsewhere  widely  distributed  over  America  and  the  East 
Indies.  The  genera  Graphyptera,  Eurichora^  and  Pneumora 
are  probably  peculiar  to  Africa. 

Among  the  hemipterous  insects  of  Africa  we  may  men- 
tion the  Mantis  precaria,  an  object  of  superstitious  venera- 
tion among  the  Hottentots,  who  hold  in  the  highest  respect 
the  person  on  whom  the  insect  happens  to  alight. 

"  I  here  became  acquainted,"  says  Mr.  Burchell,  in  his 
Travels  in  the  Interior  of  Southern  Africa,  "  with  a  new 
species  of  Mantis,  whose  presence  became  afterward  suffi- 
ciently familiar  to  me,  by  its  never  failing,  on  calm  warm 
evenings,  to  pay  me  a  visit  as  I  was  writing  my  journal, 
and  sometimes  to  interrupt  my  lucubrations  by  putting  out 

♦  Linn.  Trans.,  vol.  iv.  t  General  Zoology,  vol.  vi.  p.  43 


356  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA. 

the  lamp.  All  the  mantis  trTbe  are  very  remarkable  insect*  5 
and  this  one,  whose  dusky  sober  colouring  well  suits  the 
obscurity  of  night,  is  certainly  so  by  the  late  hours  it  keeps. 
It  often  settled  on  my  book,  or  on  the  press  where  I  waa 
writing,  and  remained  still,  as  if  considering  some  affair  of 
importance,  with  an  appearance  of  intelligence  which  had 
a  wonderful  effect  in  withholding  my  hand  from  doing  it 
harm.  Although  hujtf  reds  have  flown  within  my  power,  I 
never  took  more  than  five.  I  have  given  to  this  curious 
little  creature  the  name  of  Mantis  lucuhrans;  and  having 
no  doubt  that  he  will  introduce  himself  to  every  traveller 
■who  comes  into  this  country  in  the  months  of  November 
and  December,  I  beg  to  recommend  him  as  a  harmless  little 
companion,  and  entreat  that  kindness  and  mercy  may  be 
shown  to  him."* 

Locusts  are  of  common  occurrence  in  many  parts  of 
Africa.  Mr.  Barrow  records,  that  in  the  southern  districts 
which  he  visited,  the  surface  of  an  area  of  nearly  2000 
square  miles  might  literally  be  said  to  be  covered  by  them. 
The  water  of  a  wide  river  was  scarcely  visible  in  conse- 
quence of  the  innumerable  dead  locusts  that  floated  on  its 
surface,  apparently  drowned  in  their  attempts  to  reach  the 
reeds  which  grew  along  its  shores.  Except  these  much- 
wished-for  reeds,  they  had  devoured  every  other  green  thing. 
Their  destruction  on  a  former  occasion  was  sudden  and 
singular.  All  the  fuU-grov^m  insects  were  driven  into  the 
sea  by  a  tempestuous  north-west  wind,  and  were  afterward 
cast  upon  the  beach,  where  they  formed  a  bank  three  or 
four  feet  high,  and  extending  nearly  fifty  English  miles. 
The  smell,  as  may  easily  be  supposed,  was  abominable, 
and  was  sensibly  felt  at  a  distance  of  150  miles. 

The  migratory  flight  of  the  locust,  and  its  desolating 
effects  upon  vegetation,  and  consequent  injury  both  to  man 
and  beast,  have  afforded  a  frequent  exercise  to  the  pen  of 
the  poet ;  but  by  none  have  their  injurious  inroads  been  so 
magnificently  treated  as  by  the  Prophet  Joel.  "A  day  of 
darkness  and  of  gloominess,  a  day  of  clouds  and  of  thick 
darkness,  as  the  morning  spread  upon  the  mountains ;  a 
great  people  and  a  strong :  there  hath  not  been  ever  the 
Jike,  neither  shall  be  any  more  after  it,  even  to  the  years  of 

*  BurcheU'a  Travels,  vol.  i.  p.  418 


^  INSECTS.  357 

many  generations.  A  fire  devoureth  before  them,  and  be- 
hind them  a  flame  bumeth :  the  land  is  as  the  Garden  of 
Eden  before  them,  and  behind  them  a  desolate  wilderness  ; 
yea,  and  nothing  shall  escape  them.  The  appearance  of 
them  is  as  the  appearance  of  horses  ;  and  as  horsemen,  so 
shall  they  run.  Like  the  noise  of  chariots  on  the  tops  of 
mountains  shall  they  leap,  like  the  noise  of  a  flame  of  fire 
that  devoureth  the  stubble,  as  a  strong  people  set  in  battle- 
array."  "  The  earth  shall  quake  before  them  ;  the  heavens 
shall  tremble :  the  sun  and  moon  shall  be  dark,  and  the 
stars  shall  withdraw  their  shining."  "  How  do  the  beasts 
groan  !  the  herds  of  cattle  are  perplexed,  because  they  have 
no  pasture  ;  yea,  the  flocks  of  sheep  are  made  desolate." 

One  of  the  most  formidable  of  the  insect  tribes  of  this 
continent  is  the  Termes  bellicosus,  or  white  ant.  This  spe- 
cies dwells  in  congregated  troops,  consisting  of  labourers, 
soldiers,  and  sovereigns.  They  build  conical  nests  of  mud 
and  clay,  from  10  to  12  feet  high,  and  divided  in  the  interi'f 
by  thin  partitions  into  a  variety  of  cells.  These  nests  aiv, 
often  veiy  numerous,  and  appear  like  villages  from  a  dis- 
tance. Jobson,  in  his  History  of  Guinea,  alleges  that  they 
are  often  20  feet  high,  and  he  states  that  he  found  them 
extremely  serviceable  in  screening  himself  and  his  com- 
panions while  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  antelopes  and  other 
wild  game.  The  queen-mother  of  this  species  becomes  in 
the  pregnant  state  of  so  enormous  a  size,  that  her  abdomen 
exceeds  by  two  thousand  times  the  bulk  of  the  rest  of  her 
body.  When  the  ova  are  fully  formed,  they  are  obtruded 
at  the  rate  of  60  in  a  minute,  or  upwards  of  80,000  in  24 
hours. 

Of  the  butterfly  tribe,  of  course,  many  beautiful  species 
inhabit  this  far-spread  continent ;  but  as  little  is  known  of 
their  habits  and  history,  and  we  would  seek  in  vain  to  ex- 
press by  words  the  splendid  colours,  the  elegant  and  varied 
forms,  and  the  exquisite  pencilling  by  which  they  are 
adorned,  we  shall  not  here  enumerate  any  of  the  African 
species ; 

"Nameless  in  dark  oblivion  they  must  dwell," 

except  in  the  minds  of  those  who  have  studied  their  gorgeous 
hues  in  the  illumined  pages  of  natural  history,  or  in  those  far 


358  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  AFRICA.  ' 

more  brilliant  pages  of  the  book  of  nature's  self,  where  tb« 
most  successful  effort  of  art  is  transcended  by  a  feeble 
insect's  wing ; — for  the  imagination  of  the  poet  and  the 
painter  cannot  boast 

"Amid  their  gay  creation  hues  like  these." 

Several  species  of  bee  inhabit  Africa.  The  banded  bee 
(^Apis  fascicUa)  is  an  object  of  domestic  cultivation  ;  and  in 
some  parts  of  the  country  a  particularly  delicious  honey  is 
derived  from  the  labours  of  this  industrious  insect.  Wax 
is  an  object  of  considerable  consequence  in  the  commerce 
of  Africa. 

Scorpions  and  centipedes  of  enormous  size  and  most  for- 
bidding aspect  lurk  beneath  the  stones,  or  glide  with  nu- 
merous feet  over  the  sterile  soil ;  and  the  poison  of  these 
creatures  seems  to  exist  in  a  stronger  and  more  deadly  state 
of  concentration  than  in  colder  climes.  Children  frequently 
die  from  the  bite  of  the  scorpion  in  less  than  three  da)''s. 
In  regard  to  the  smaller  domestic  nuisances  of  the  entomo- 
logical class,  we  have  few  data  from  which  to  form  an  opi 
nion.  We  doubt  not  that  dirt  and  indolence  produce  here 
as  elsewhere  their  disgusting  concomitants.  Captain  Lyon, 
however,  observed,  that  although  bugs  were  numerous, 
there  were  no  fleas  in  Fezzan. 


We  come  now  to  the  last  class  of  the  animal  kingdom, 
called  Zoophytes.  These,  Professor  Jameson  has  else- 
where remarked,  "  although  the  lowest  in  the  scale  of  ani- 
mated beings,  are  yet  highly  interesting  in  the  sublime 
plan  of  creation.  Their  numbers  exceed  all  calculation, — 
the  minuteness  of  many  species  is  such  that  they  are  not 
to  be  discriminated  by  the  aid  of  our  most  powerful  micro- 
scopes,— they  form  one  extremity  of  the  zoological  scale  of 
magnitude,  of  which  the  other  is  occupied  by  the  gigantic 
whale  of  the  Polar  Regions.  The  coral-reefs,  rocks,  and 
islands  of  the  tropical  seas  are  formed  by  very  minute  zoo- 
phytes. These  reefs,  in  some  regions  of  the  earth,  have 
been  traced  for  a  thousand  miles  in  length,  forty  or  fifty 
miles  in  breadth,  and  to  depths  sometimes  unfathomable ; 
yet  they  are  the  work  of  the  most  minute  animals  in 
the  creation.    We  find,  too,  whole  beds  of  rocks,  even  ea 


ZOOPHYTES.  359 

tire  hills,  of  very  old  formation,  extending  for  hundreds  of 
miles,  characterized  by  the  corals  they  contain,  thus  proving 
that  these  animals  also  existed  in  countless  numbers  in  a 
former  condition  of  our  earth,  and  that  then  as  at  present, 
they  assisted  materially  in  adding  to  the  solid  matter  of  the 
globe.  Zoophytes,  from  the  simpHcity  of  their  structure, 
and  the  geognostic  relations  of  the  rocks  in  which  they  are 
occasionally  found,  appear  to  have  been  called  into  exist- 
ence before  the  other  classes  of  animals."* 

The  red  coral  ( Corallium  rubrum\  of  which  are  formed 
so  many  beautiful  ornaments  of  female  dress,  and  the  value 
of  which  as  an  article  of  commerce  is  consequently  great, 
occurs  abundantly  along  the  coasts  of  Tunis  and  the  shores 
of  the  Red  Sea.  It  is  of  comparatively  slow  growth,  and 
is  never  found  in  such  splendid  masses  as  the  madre- 
pores. Light  effects  a  powerful  influence  on  its  growth. 
♦'  Thus,  at  a  depth  of  from  three  to  ten  fathoms,  it  grows 
one  foot  in  eight  years  ;  at  the  depth  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
fathoms,  the  same  length  in  ten  years  ;  at  the  depth  of  one 
hundred  fathoms,  same  length  in  twenty-five  or  thirty  years ; 
and  at  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  the  same 
length  in  forty  years.  It  is  also  remarked,  that  in  general 
the  colour  is  deeper  and  richer  in  shallow  than  in  very  deep 
water.  The  coral  of  Barbar}"  is  not  reckoned  so  fine  as 
that  of  Italy  or  France."t 

The  common  sponge  {Spongia  officinalis)  forms  also  an 
article  of  traffic  along  some  of  the  African  shores. 

We  shall  conclude  our  sketch  of  African  zoology  by  a 
brief  notice  of  a  dangerous  and  disgusting  animal  (Filaria 
medinensis),  commonly  called  the  Guinea  worm.  This 
gigantic  parasite  contrives,  in  a  way  best  know  to  itself,  to 
enter  beneath  the  skin  of  the  human  race,  especially  that 
of  the  legs,  where  it  will  remain  for  several  years,  attaining 
in  the  mean  time  to  the  enormous  length  of  ten  feet,  and  to 
the  thickness  of  a  pigeon's  quill.  According  to  the  place  and 
manner  of  its  abode,  it  occasions  pains  more  or  less  severe ; 
and  in  the  more  unfortunate  and  disastrous  instances,  its 
continued  presence  is  followed  by  convulsions  and  death. 

*  Murray's  Historical  Account  of  Discoveries  and  Travels  in  Africa. 
T0l.il.  p.  471.  ♦  Ibid,  p.  473 

THE  END. 


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